How to install a door frame. How to properly assemble and install a door frame: basic diagrams and workflow

Having bought a door frame in a store, you should not immediately despair at the sight of a large number of prefabricated elements. To assemble such a design, it is not necessary to be a specialist with higher education. To assemble the door frame with our own hands, we will consider the entire installation process in detail.

Usually, interior doors are sold disassembled, and at first glance, an incomprehensible and chaotic set of elements opens up to our eyes, which includes a profiled wooden beam, in the worst case, from MDF, locks and awnings, as well as a canvas. All this remotely resembles a children's designer from the DIY series, and most people, seeing all this, panic and begin to look for an experienced specialist in this field, whose services are very expensive. Other enthusiasts are still trying to solve this puzzle, but their efforts run into a big question mark, because without detailed instructions very difficult to understand the assembly process. In this article, we will try to help you figure out how to outside help assemble the door frame.

Sizing the box

First and very milestone the entire assembly process is an accurate calculation, to the millimeter, of the length of the loot racks, the threshold (if any) and the upper jumper.

Measurement of racks

The height of the posts must be equal to the height of the door. Usually standard size door height is 2000 mm. After making sure of this, we add the width of the gap between the door leaf and the opening to the height of the door leaf by a width of 2-3 mm. In the case of installing doors with a threshold, the width of two gaps of 3 mm in size must be added to the height of the door leaf, a total of 6 mm. In the version without a threshold, we add only one gap of 3 mm in size, and add 1 cm at the bottom so that the canvas does not cling to the floor when opening and closing the doors.

As a result of accurate measurements, we get the following parameters: for the option with a threshold, the height of the doors and pillars will be 2000 mm + 2 gaps of 3 mm = 2006 mm; with the option without a threshold, the height of the doors and pillars will be 2000 mm + 3 mm + 10 mm gap = 2019 mm.

Threshold and upper jumper measurement

The size of the threshold and the upper lintel of the door frame must be the same. Let's determine their length correctly, which will be equal to the sum of the width of the door leaf, the width of the gaps between the door and the chute, and the thickness of the profile bar from which the chute will be assembled.

In addition, on both sides of the sections of the jumper and the threshold, it is necessary to cut out the landing samples, that is, cut off the protruding parts of the loot, against which the door rests when closing. The cut should be equal to the thickness of the rack at its widest point.

To correctly cut out the samples, we measure the thickness of the rack from the edge of the jumper on both sides and carefully cut it out with a small hacksaw.

After that, you can screw the door frame with a calm heart.

Do-it-yourself door frame assembly

We screw the door frame with self-tapping screws or confirmations for wood with a length of 55 mm or more. In order for the profile bar or MDF to not crack, you must first make holes of a slightly smaller diameter than the screwed self-tapping screw, by about 2-3 mm.

In order for the structure to hold firmly and not fall apart during installation, all joints must be fixed with self-tapping screws at least twice.

Marking and inserting canopies

The final step in the installation of doors is the connection of the leaf with the door frame. With the help of a simple operation, this will not be difficult. Having laid the door frame on the floor, it is necessary to invest in it door leaf with awnings built into it.

Place the leaf in the door frame so that the gap is the same on all sides and equals 3 mm. To do this, you can use a school ruler, the thickness of which is just 3 mm.

After the door in the box has been leveled, it is necessary to copy the location of the canopies from the doors to the loot using a marker.

Pull the doors out of the frame, put it on its side and use a chisel or router to cut out seats for the canopies.

Connect the doors with the frame into a single structure and screw the hinges to the hatch.

The assembly of the door frame is completed. Now the whole structure is ready for installation, and you can say with confidence that you have mastered the puzzle of assembling a door frame with your own hands!

A properly installed door frame provides 90% success in installation door block generally.

Diagram of a door frame in a wall opening.

Before you put the door frame, you need to carefully study the basics of this delicate work.

Tools and materials

Tools necessary for work: tape measure, pencil, hammer, square, construction knife, perforator, drill, screwdriver.

Depending on its design, you can install the door frame using the following tools and materials:

wood saw;
a hacksaw with a small tooth;
miter box;
chisel;
screwdriver;
perforator;
drill;
drill;
construction knife;
roulette;
square;
bubble level;
pencil;
hammer;
nail puller;
direct suspensions;
self-tapping screws;
dowels;
anchors;
nails;
mounting foam;
glue for MDF;
wedges;
wooden bars;
door frame;
wood putty;
additional elements;
ruberoid;
building mix.

Preparatory work

Cross section of door frames of different types.

If the door frame is installed in place of the old one, the latter must first be dismantled. The easiest way to do this is to simply cut the side and top planks in half and pull out the resulting pieces with a nail puller. Sometimes it is necessary to cut the fixing nails and anchors around the perimeter. If there are embedded parts in the opening, it is better to leave them. Subsequently, it will be easier to install a new box on mortgages.

box interior door in most cases can be purchased in the form universal kit. Collect and customize it right size account for on its own. The box set necessarily includes side and top strips, a threshold or bottom strip for interior doors - a rarity, but may be present. The vestibule can be integral with the slats or be laid on. The box itself is either wooden or MDF. The strips included in the kit are designed for use as part of a block with a door leaf 2 m high and 60-90 cm wide.

You can accurately mark the planks before cutting as follows. The detachable porch is installed in the side strips, which are laid out with the front surface up approximately along the width of the opening. The canvas is placed on the porches between the slats. The top bar is put in place. With a solid porch, it can be applied with the upper side to the canvas, this will not affect the measurements. A uniform gap of 2-3 mm is set along the perimeter of the canvas, for this you can use cardboard scraps, tile corners, or just by eye. We note the location of the canopies on the side bar and canvas.

Scheme of installation of door hinges.

The hinges are cut before the box is installed in the opening, or better before it is assembled. This makes work more convenient. The bar is laid out on a horizontal surface, the contour of the loop is outlined, excess material is removed with the help of a chisel. It is generally accepted that the canopies are located at a distance of 20 cm from the upper and lower surfaces of the door leaf. For lightweight canvases, amplifiers are made in these places.

The places for cutting the planks are carefully marked with a pencil. For a door with a threshold, the gap to it from the bottom of the leaf is assumed to be 2.5 mm. For a door without a threshold, the clearance under the door is from 1 to 1.5 cm. On the upper and lower strips with a solid rebate, marks are made opposite the edges of the rebate on the side strips. This will allow you to cut off the extra protruding ledge at the top and bottom to match the corners of the box.

We cut all the strips to the desired size with a hacksaw. A miter box will help cut the elements evenly. On the upper and lower slats, using a hacksaw and a chisel, we remove the extra porch along the serifs. Again we lay out the box on the floor and put the canvas into it with the installation of the necessary gaps. We fix all corners with two self-tapping wood screws 75 mm long with a countersunk head. For self-tapping screws, pre-drill holes of a suitable diameter. If you screw in the screws without drilling, you can split the ends of the slats.

When the width of the opening allows, a box of MDF is better reinforce on the sides with additional bars. So the structure will become more rigid. Before trying to insert the door frame into the opening, we fasten 3 straight hangers along its outer side surfaces: 2 at the edges and 1 in the middle. A strip of roofing material is nailed to the lower end of the structure with a threshold.

Door frame installation

Door frame installation diagram.

We install the box in the opening. It should enter freely and not rest anywhere. Everything that interferes must be knocked down. For the option with a threshold, a strobe in the floor may be required. During installation, it is filled with a mortar or a polymer building mixture.

To begin with, the side of the box, on which there will be sheds, is set according to the level in 2 planes and in alignment with the wall. This side can immediately be fixed to the opening with direct suspensions. Approximately the upper bar is set to the horizon. It is checked that it does not touch anything, it is even better to have a small gap for subsequent adjustment.

It is quite difficult to accurately set the top bar and the reciprocal side rack in terms of level.

Fine adjustment is carried out with the curtain hung. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the door will not evenly approach the porch over the entire plane.

The canvas is placed on the canopies, the upper and side counterparts are exposed with required clearance along the perimeter and along the porch. This is done with wedges. 3 reciprocal direct suspensions are screwed.

For models made of MDF with a removable rebate, the box is rigidly fixed to the opening with anchors or long self-tapping screws through the groove for the rebate. In wooden planks, you can hide the location of the fasteners with the help of wood putty that matches the color. MDF versions with a solid rebate can be fixed through the box only in 3 places: under the canopies and the striker of the lock latch. But such fasteners are too close to the edge of the wall and can lead to chips. Therefore, it is better to limit yourself to mounting on direct suspensions and mounting foam.

Before filling the gap with foam, the ends of the opening should be slightly moistened with water. It is desirable to fill in such a way that the foam does not crawl out of the plane of the wall. Cutting it leaves the pores open and reduces the strength and durability of the filling.

So that the foam does not squeeze the opening, it must be wedged. You can simply leave the canvas in the opening, and put cardboard scraps in the gaps. If the door opens into the room, this will not work. You will have to use scraps of wooden bars and wedged them in the opening.

After a day, the foam will harden. The removable porch is fixed with glue. For reliability, you can add small carnations with bitten off hats. It remains to draw an opening and embed fittings. When you want to have a platband on both sides of the opening, and the width of the box is less than the thickness of the wall, additional trims are used.

Interroom doors today are the integral attribute of each interior. A variety of models allows you to make your room not only practical, but also original. But this feature largely depends on correct installation door frame of the interior door. Therefore, before starting such an operation, you should familiarize yourself with the main nuances of this procedure.

Door types

Interior doors are structures that play only a decorative role, so the strength parameters are not so important here. Manufacturers try to make their products as comfortable and beautiful as possible. The main criterion for classification interior fabrics is the material from which they are made. Depending on this, there are several types of doors:

Fiberboard. The basis is wooden bars, to which thin wood boards are attached. To protect the surface of the material, it is laminated and coated with several layers of varnish. This type of product is the cheapest, but also short-lived. Often they are complemented by a box with a threshold. Experts do not recommend installing these doors in the bathroom or in the kitchen, where there is poor ventilation.

MDF. Cloths are much more expensive than fiberboard products. The products are characterized by an optimal price-quality ratio. Therefore, many buyers prefer MDF doors. The material resists moisture well, and also has high sound insulation rates.
Natural tree. Solid wood doors are unique and beautiful products that are perfect for any interior. The substance is very well processed, which allows you to give it different shape. Therefore, such doors are very often decorated with carvings, which makes them even more beautiful.

They are complemented by a telescopic or simple box, which allows you to mount the platbands more efficiently. Door leafs are made from various tree species, among which the most popular are pine, oak, ash, maple, mahogany and many others.

There are many other classifications of interior doors that take them into account. technical specifications and design features. They can be single or double, and the surface itself can be smooth or complemented by curly cutouts and glass inserts.

What will be needed?

Installation of interior doors involves not only a careful approach, but also the use of high-quality auxiliary tools. To perform such tasks, you will need the following standard set of products:

Saw. It should be sharp and have small teeth, which will prevent the appearance of chips on the surface of the box.
Drill and a set of drills. The type of tool depends on the material of the wall to which the frame will be attached. It is important that the drills can drill holes in brick, concrete, etc. In some cases, you may need a hammer drill and several drills.
Screwdriver and nozzles for a certain type of fasteners.
Tape measure and pencil for marking.

Level.
Fasteners. In most cases, you will need some wood screws, as well as wall plugs. Sometimes you can use special anchors.
Mounting foam.
Expanding elements. They are needed to fix the box in the opening. Often wooden wedges are used for this. Therefore, you need to stock up on wood, from which it will later be possible to form several similar products.

This list is not generic as it depends on the type door frame and how it is installed.

Installation subtleties

Installing the door frame of an interior door is a complex procedure that requires certain skills and patience. You need to start by preparing a working tool, as well as choosing a mounting method. In most cases installation is carried out using anchors, which securely fix the frame.

How to assemble?

The procedure for installing the box begins with its assembly. This design can be of several types. Today, U-shaped frames are increasingly used, which exclude the presence of a threshold. But there is also rectangular structures also used quite frequently.

Factory models are often already prepared for assembly, as they are pre-finished to give beautiful view. If you decide to build a box of wooden beam independently, then it must be thoroughly dried and polished.

Assembling the box involves performing several sequential operations:

Initially, you need to lay out the bars on a flat horizontal surface. Often, a floor is used for this, which is covered with paper or film to prevent damage to the door leaf.
The assembly of the box begins with measurements. It is important that the width of the opening is slightly larger than the door leaf itself.
When all the data is known, the elements of the box should be connected into a single structure. They can be connected in several basic ways. The simplest is the connection at 90 degrees. To do this, the upper bar from the ends is cut at a given angle.

It is important that the cut surface is smooth and without distortions. After that, the vertical support is attached to the transverse bar and screwed.

These elements can also be connected at an angle of 45 degrees. To do this, a corner is cut off on each bar. After docking both structures, they should also form 90 degrees. Please note that even the smallest deviations should not be allowed, since the operation of the entire system depends on this.
When you have fitted all the bars, you can connect them together. To do this, use nails or screws. It is advisable to drive 2 fasteners in each docking side. It is important that after assembly the box is held as firmly as possible, and the elements do not move relative to each other. If you plan to organize a threshold, then it is attached to the supports like a top bar. It is also important to connect this part as evenly as possible.

After assembling the box, you should start attaching the hinges. To do this, the frame is laid on the floor and leveled. After that, grooves for the hinges are cut out on one of the sides on the vertical stand. Experts recommend placing them at a distance of 20 cm from the upper and lower edges. Grooves are formed using a chisel or milling cutter.
When the hinges are attached, place the door leaf inside the box and mark their locations on it. To do this, the product is aligned with the frame, and then loops are applied and places are marked.

The grooves on the door are cut in the same way as on the box.

How to install correctly?

Do-it-yourself installation of a door frame involves several sequential operations:

Before installing the product, you need to measure the structure and the doorway. It is important that the structure fits into the hole, which should be slightly larger than it.
After that, you need to carefully lift and insert the box into the opening. It is necessary to install the structure on a flat surface to avoid distortions. The ends of the product must coincide with one of the sides of the wall. This is important if the wireframe width is less than this value.
It is important that the box stands exactly in all planes. Therefore, you need to align it and fix it in this position. For this, wooden spacers are used, which are installed between the frame and the wall.

How to fix?

Mounting the structure is the final stage of the installation of this product. This process consists from several successive stages:

Several mounting holes are drilled in the fixed box. In this case, a wood drill is used, which only the frame passes through.
To form holes in the wall for the dowel, use a long concrete drill. With it, marks are made through previously drilled holes on the surface of vertical supports. Please note that the diameter of the drill should not be larger than the hole in the tree, as then you will not be able to fix the system with a self-tapping screw.
At this stage, you need to remove the box and drill holes of a larger diameter in the marked places on the wall. They must fit under the plastic dowel or anchor that will be used for this purpose.
When everything is ready, the box is put back into place, leveled and fixed with wedges. If all is well, you can screw the frame to the wall with self-tapping screws in several places. In this case, it is important to constantly monitor the position of the box relative to various planes.
The procedure is completed by filling the gaps mounting foam and hanging doors on hinges.

Replacement methods

Very often, interior doors are installed in place of already worn-out systems. This, in turn, involves the dismantling old box.To replace old design you can use several ways:

Dismantling with the destruction of the frame. This approach involves removing the old box using brute force. Both crowbars and saws are used here, which divide it into several separate parts. After that, they are already installing a new system.
Disassembly of the structure with the preservation of the frame. If the doors are still in good condition and can be used elsewhere, carefully remove the box. To do this, sequentially remove all screws or other fasteners. Then the foam is removed, which fixes the product additionally. This will allow you to easily remove the box later, while maintaining its integrity.

This step by step guide is not universal, since the box is replaced taking into account specific design features.

If the door clings to the threshold

Wooden doors have a predisposition to warp. Even if you installed the structure and checked the correctness of its course, this does not mean that it will always be so. Very often the canvas begins to cling to the threshold.

Unlike fully prepared for installation metal doors wooden analogues are sold in a complete set. The explanation is simple - many manufacturers (mostly foreign companies) supply models of certain standard sizes to the market, and not for a specific opening, and do not meet our standards. In addition, it is not known in which direction the door should swing open at the installation site.

Therefore, the door frame is represented by bars, from which you still need to assemble the jamb and prepare it for hanging the canvas. Knowing some of the features of "design" will allow you not to resort to the services of hired craftsmen, but to do all the work yourself.

Helpful information

It will be useful to those who, for whatever reason, do not want to purchase a door in a furniture store, but prefer to make it on their own, according to their drawings. This often happens when non-standard openings; it is much easier to assemble a box of the required dimensions than to expand / narrow the passage. The nuance is in the choice of the width of the beam. It must correspond to the thickness of the wall, and the latter (for buildings erected according to standard project) depends on its material.

Dimensions - in mm. Deviations within ±5 are allowed.

Brickwork 75 - box 108.
Log house (log, timber) 100 - jamb 120.

If an imported model is purchased, then its box is slightly different in size due to a mismatch of standards. Its width varies from 80 to 205. Therefore, you will need to choose a suitable block, focusing on the thickness of the wall at the location of the opening.

What is it connected with? With a significant difference in size, problems with the installation of platbands are provided. There are several solutions - the use of extensions, the manufacture of a "draft" box; but all of them only complicate the installation and increase the final cost of the work.

Box contents

Loop jamb (vertical rack on which canopies are attached).
The vestibule (opposite side of the box on which the striker plate of the lock, latches is mounted).
Ceiling (horizontal element connecting the racks) It is also called the upper timber.
Nut (lower jumper; optional part of the design, but some models are equipped with it). It is used if a do-it-yourself door frame is assembled for its installation in rooms such as a bathroom, toilet and a number of others, where emergencies are possible associated with a breakthrough in liquid communications. The task of the threshold is to prevent the spread of water in adjacent rooms.

Assembly Options

The task is to connect the individual parts of the kit into frame structure rectangular shape. Depending on the presence/absence of the threshold, it takes the form of a closed/open loop. In principle, there is nothing complicated; the main thing is to make a competent installation. When deciding how to assemble a door frame, you need to consider that this can be done in several ways. Which is preferable, you will have to decide on your own. In this case, much depends on practical experience in this area and the tool that is at hand.

baguette connection

Plus - the relative ease of assembly. The technology consists in corner sawing (trimming) of the ends of the fastened elements (450). After combining the parts, the final fixation is made with screws (self-tapping screws).

Minus - limitation in application. It is related to the material of the jamb. For example, it is not recommended to assemble an MDF door frame in this way - it is possible that the edges will “ruffle”, the appearance of cracks and chips.

spike connection

Plus - reliability. This assembly option ensures the durability of the structure, while the door is subjected to constant and significant loads. For example, at the entrance to the building, in places of intensive movement of people.

Minus - self-assembly requires not only experience, but also a special tool. In their absence, no, even the most detailed, step-by-step instruction will help.

Right angle

Plus - it is considered the simplest technique to implement independently, and therefore convenient: a special tool, except for a household one, is not needed. It is only necessary to cut off a certain part of the quarter (depending on the dimensions of the connected elements) and fasten the parts according to the dimensions of the opening. Sometimes this is not practiced - the connection is made end-to-end. The result is expected - the door frame is strong, reliable.

Assembly order

The technique is a right angle. At self assembly it is recommended to fully mount the structure, and only then place it in the opening.

In some step by step instructions another technology is being considered - the preparation and installation of individual parts of the frame in the opening, their alignment with the help of linings and further connection into a single whole. This method is much more difficult, and without proper experience it is better not to practice.

Preparation of the workplace: free a certain segment on the floor, put together several tables of equal height. The task is to provide a smooth, solid foundation. Otherwise, it will not work to make a high-quality assembly of the box for the entrance, interior door.
Measuring the dimensions of the opening. Produced in 3 levels (width) and 3 points (height: center and sides). In accordance with this, the required dimensions of the box are determined; there should be a technological gap between it and the walls (recommended within 4 ± 1 mm).

Open samples. It is done if their dimensions in length do not match the opening. To do this, you need a pencil (draw lines) and a hand saw.
Pre-assembly of the box. All parts are laid out according to the scheme, taking into account the direction of opening the canvas. That is, it takes into account which side of the rectangle the porch and the loop jamb should be on. After aligning the “shape”, its geometry is controlled, the sizes match, and marks are applied to select a part of the quarter.
Connection preparation. Notches are made along the marked lines, after which a part of the part is removed with a chisel. To increase the reliability of the joint, the cut is leveled to an ideal state - with a knife, file, grinder.
Marking for fittings and material selection. It is more expedient to immediately prepare the “nests” for the hinges, the striker of the latch (lock), than to do this after the door frame is installed in the opening. But modern canopies (for example, "butterflies") should not be fixed. They are fixed on the box when hanging the canvas. The only exception is for loops of old modifications, collapsible; one half of them is installed on the frame during its assembly.

The connection of the parts of the box. For each "line" - at least two fasteners. The interval between them is chosen so that they are located at least 5 mm from the edge.

Note. If a threshold is provided, then it is placed in a box with the expectation that there should be at least 10 mm from it to the canvas. This is necessary to ensure natural circulation air streams.

It remains only to check the correctness of the geometry, to process the joints in order to eliminate possible differences in height and install the door frame in the opening.

It turns out that there is nothing super complicated in the assembly of the jamb. In the process of work, cutters are not needed, laser level and other special tools(equipment). All that is needed for the "design" of the box is accuracy, attentiveness and marking accuracy.

When buying doors in a store, we obviously get a door block that is not fully prepared for installation, but a scaled-up similarity children's constructor for "skillful hands". It is quite understandable why hinges are not hung and locks are not embedded, because it is not known which side the door will open. Manufacturers do not assemble boxes, because they do not know exactly the dimensions and features of the opening to be equipped. Therefore, the owners have to hire craftsmen or independently build this important part of the door block. And for this, you need to clearly know how it is possible and necessary to cut a bar, how to assemble a door frame for the long-term service of an interior or entrance structure.

What is the root "hitch"?

The complexity of a number of operations for the assembly of the base frame for hanging the door lies in the specifics of the production of cuts and in the connection of the components. Simple in the eyes of an inexperienced layman, the work is hampered by the presence of a feigned recess on the profiled jambs and crossbars of the future box.

Two schemes for building a box

You can dock them by doing the cuts:

at an angle of 45º, for which you need a good miter box with an award, but it is much better if you can saw off the excess beautifully with a miter saw;
at an angle of 90º, the implementation of which will require not only a fine-toothed saw and the accuracy of the performer, but also knowledge technological subtleties essentially not too hard of a job.

To perform a strong docking of components, galvanized self-tapping screws or “nailless” spiked joints are used. Spikes can be formed at both of the above angles. However, they are milled mainly perpendicular to the full thickness of the box beam, which must be taken into account when calculating and marking the length and width of the door frame-box.

It doesn't matter if the spikes of the transverse bars of the box will fit into the grooves of the horizontal ones or vice versa. If only the connections were strong and unshakable, for which they are sometimes reinforced with additional nailing with zinc coating.

The shape and dimensions of the structure

The geometric parameters of the base box under construction determine two conditions:

the width and length of the door leaf itself, for the coverage and support of which this frame is intended;
purpose and category of the equipped premises.

Therefore, even before the starting stage of work, it is necessary to clearly define where and how to install the door frame the owner of the door and opening in his personal property wants to install.

Depending on the purpose of the premises, the requirements for ventilation or insulation, which the door must provide, change. Entrance door into the bath and the door to the steam room should not let the cold in and let out the fertile warm air out. The washing department, on the other hand, needs additional ventilation so that the excess of vaporization is spontaneously unloaded and the building materials do not rot. Additional ventilation is required in the boiler room, especially if it is installed gas equipment. What can be done:

If it is necessary to provide a barrier against heat leakage, the construction of the door frame will require four bars, which, after connection, will turn into a closed rectangular frame. The door frame will consist of a feigned and hinged vertical bar, a lintel - an upper crossbar and a threshold connecting two vertical elements in the zone of their junction with the floor surface. A 3 mm technological gap must be maintained between the box beam and the door leaf along the entire perimeter for the free movement of the door.
If it is required to ensure a natural outflow of steam and polluted air, the box is assembled only from three parts, since instead of a threshold that prevents aerodynamic processes, a gap of 15.0 - 20.0 mm must be made. The door base resembles the letter P in such cases. The gap of 3 mm laid down by the technology passes only along uprights and lintels.

Between the threshold and the newly laid flooring you need to leave a gap of 2-3 mm in case of thermal shifts.

A closed box, of course, is higher than an open analog, as it is increased due to the thickness of the nut. This nuance must be taken into account in the calculations so that the door leaf does not have to be "shortened", which is especially undesirable if it is covered with veneer.

Important. If you do have to cut on a veneered surface, start on the finished side and work your way to the unfinished side. decorative coating. So the veneer will suffer the least, the chips will be insignificant.

The sequence of the simplest assembly scheme

There are not too many people who want to mill or painstakingly choose spikes with grooves without experience, and not everyone stocked up on equipment for perfect sawing diagonally. Because most home craftsmen stop at the simplest circuit with joining elements at right angles.

Now let's find out how to properly assemble the door frame. It is more convenient to work by laying out all the components at the same level horizontally. Most often this happens on a lined with cardboard or other soft material floor, less often on two tables moved together, four stools can be adjusted.

When buying a timber separately from the canvas, please note that the base for fixing the door in the opening should not be narrower than the canvas, and wider than the wall.

Work order:

On the site equipped for work, we lay out the box beam with the front side up, that is, outward with the porches. If the beam is wider than the canvas, we bring the plane of the door to the same level with the future box, placing paperback books under the canvas. According to any of the selected schemes, first three standard elements are involved in the work: a feigned and looped jamb and an upper crossbar.
The upper crossbar of the door frame, installed in a brick or foam concrete opening, is recommended to be made wider than the box to increase bearing capacity. Usually it is 0.5 cm narrower than the opening. To search for attachment points for vertical bars to it, first find the center of the lintel, then set aside equal distances in both directions.
To form an equal gap around the entire perimeter between the canvas and the boxed beam, cardboard or old linoleum cut into pieces is laid.
Having marked the gaps, we outline the cutting points without scratching the surface. It is better to press lightly with your fingernail. A pencil, especially poorly sharpened, should be used for marking experienced craftsmen do not recommend. It will not provide accuracy.
We saw off the crossbar according to the chosen scheme.
It is desirable to mark with an awl or a sharp scalpel a part of the feigned profile, which must be removed so that a plane forms at the junction. Then we “cut off” the marked area neatly with a chisel or saw it off. This is one of the most significant stages in the assembly of the box, which does not tolerate inattention and mistakes. A slight shortage in the length of the box bars will still be covered by the platband, and poorly cut with a chisel or sawn off ledges of the vestibule will be visible. Have you decided to drink? Take a hacksaw and cut so as not to accidentally tear off the veneer from the underlying plane. For insurance, it is better to cover it with cardboard. After we have done washed down to the depth of the protrusion, we clean off the excess with a chisel.
We lay out the sawn-down bars back around the canvas with cardboard in the gap. With maximum accuracy, we note the location of the loops. The standard is an indentation for installing hinges of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the web. Without forgetting about the upper gap, we set aside a point on the hinge bar at a distance of 20.03 cm from the intersection of the lintel and the jamb.
We put on two screws a loop map to the hinge bar and mark with a scalpel or awl the shape of the nest and the points of the holes for the screws. Slowly, scrupulously remove the veneer or array to a depth equal to the thickness of the card.
We put the flags of the loops in the nests and fix them there with self-tapping screws. The lock striker on the box is installed only after the box is fixed in the opening and the canvas is hung, as there may be discrepancies.
We return the loop bar to its place. We carefully verify the perpendicularity of the elements to each other. We fasten the crossbar and racks, distributing two self-tapping screws per connection.

The threshold is made in the same way as the lintel.

Features of assembling a box for wooden baths

Wood is an excellent building material, which differs from others in the ability to settle after construction, which is not too pleasing to the owners. Openings in baths and houses made of logs or timber should not be equipped at all in the next couple of years after the construction of the crowns. Moreover, it is necessary to find out how to properly install the door frame in a timber or log opening.

There are 2 options here:

If the width of the opening formed during the construction process corresponds to the design solution, a groove is cut in the end right in the middle and then a beam is hammered into it. It is to this beam that the box can be nailed, it is impossible directly to the walls, because even after shrinkage they continue to “settle” a little.
If the opening is not formed, you need to cut a hole for the passage with a width less than the design one by two thicknesses of a kind of ridge. Box timber in such cases is made with a groove.

In both versions, the elements of the box at the same time serve as a connector for the crowns. A gap is always left above the opening to protect it from deformation during the shrinkage period.

Which of the methods of collecting the box to use is up to the owner to decide. A lot depends on the specifics of operation and on the properties of the building material. With the most significant points and subtleties that you should not forget, we tried to acquaint.