The better to insulate the 2nd floor. Insulation of the floor of the second floor in a wooden house

Own wooden house is the most environmentally friendly type of human dwelling, which almost every city dweller dreams of acquiring. Today you rarely see one-story buildings, the 2nd floor of a private house is a full-fledged living space for arranging a nursery or guest room, bedroom, recreation area. At the stage interior decoration the question often arises of warming the second floor - how to correctly select materials, what rules to follow, are there any restrictions on the use of heaters?

Full floor or attic?

Floor insulation is a procedure, the implementation of which depends on design features premises. The master may not build a second floor in the general sense of the word, but get by with a simplified version of the superstructure - an attic.

The difference between the first option and the second is the proximity of the roof; the roof of the house is immediately located above the attic. Therefore, all work aimed at preserving heat inside the attic has its own characteristics:

the walls of the second floor of a wooden house are insulated both from the inside and outside;
the choice of heaters on the modern market is quite wide, it all depends on the preferences of the builder and his financial capabilities;
the insulation of the 2nd floor of a wooden residential building is carried out without arranging a vapor barrier system, which is simply necessary for finishing the attic.

Algorithm for warming the floor of the 2nd floor

Above the second floor wooden house necessarily located attic space. So that heat from the first level does not penetrate upwards, it is important to insulate the ceiling well. The thermal insulation layer will consist of several materials laid in a certain sequence.

Traditionally, the “pie” of warming the floor of the second floor of a wooden private house consists of the following elements:

the ceiling of the lower floor;
a layer of construction paper;
scheme bearing beams from high-quality timber;
a layer of mineral wool laid in cells formed by beams;
paper again;
any kind of flooring.

The listed sequence should not be violated, otherwise the effectiveness of the hydro- and thermal insulation of the upper room may be greatly affected. If a music lover teenager lives on the second floor of the house or the house is located near the roadway, you will have to take care of the soundproofing of the walls and floor of this room.

In addition to insulation, 2 layers of plywood are added to the multilayer “pie” to create a sound barrier. If expanded clay is used in the process of insulation, a dry concrete screed is made on top.

How and with what to insulate the ceiling on the second floor

When the ceiling on the 2nd floor is insulated, you can take care to prevent heat loss through the ceiling of the room. The attic is in contact with its ceiling with roofing. Insulation in this case is mineral wool - a material recognized by builders with many years of experience. Masters who care about the ecology of the planet choose ecowool. The selected type of wool is laid in the cells formed by the roof truss structure.

Many manufacturers of mineral wool have launched production in slabs, it is faster and more comfortable to lay elastic elements between the rafters. Plates can be placed on the ceiling of the second floor in several ways:

pressing mineral wool into cells roof structure. At the same time, the thickness of the slab should not be less than 20 cm. The method is the most expensive of all existing ones, but it is very popular among master builders due to its ease of implementation;
installation of mineral wool slabs under the rafters and between them, for which additional frame elements are installed. The described method has its fans, the costs of material and labor are reasonable;
styling plate insulation only under the rafters, which requires an additional crate. Reducing the volume of the attic is a consequence of such insulation; homeowners rarely make such sacrifices.

If the ceiling of the 2nd floor is not directly under the roof, but under the attic, the ceiling is insulated on both sides. In other words, first the floor of the second floor is insulated, then the ceiling, then the floor of the attic. The reason for this approach lies in the lack of heating top level building. To implement the plan, a film is laid on the ceiling of the second floor (a barrier for heat to escape to the attic).

Thermal insulation of the walls of the second floor of a wooden house

To insulate the walls on the second floor of a wooden private house, 2 technologies are used at once:

internal thermal insulation, which is produced in a ventilated way;
external insulation, there are two options for execution: dry and wet.

Internal thermal insulation is started when it is not possible to perform external work to preserve heat inside the building.

Popularity with internal works low for a number of reasons:

reduction of the usable area of the second floor;
freezing of the outer walls of the house, leading to condensation and gradual destruction of the material;
condensate is the main "culprit" of the development of mold, which is a danger to the cleanliness of the microclimate of any home.

When insulating walls from the inside, it is important

Adhere to the following rules, which will reduce the shortcomings described above to almost zero:

careful preparation of the walls - filling the cracks with tow, surface treatment with antiseptics;
fastening of horizontal rails for the installation of a ventilation system that provides air access to the heat insulator;
installation of a vapor barrier membrane;
installation of vertical racks for subsequent fastening of mineral wool slabs;
insulation is laid between racks made of timber or aluminum profile;
further according to the technology - fastening the second layer of the vapor barrier;
final finishing with clapboard, drywall, chipboard or otherwise building material at the choice of the owner of the house.

When using external wall insulation, the sequence of work is similar to that described above, the only exception is that the ventilation crate is not installed. These 2 methods of thermal insulation are performed “dry”, but in practice the “wet facade” method of insulation is often used.

Insulation of the facade of the house wet way is carried out as follows:

preparation of walls with antiseptic treatment;
gluing mineral plates for a special composition additional mount material dowels-umbrellas;
bonding to insulation reinforced mesh, leveling the mixture with a wide spatula;
applying a thin layer of glue, final leveling it on the walls;
plastering the walls, if required - painting the facade.

How is the attic gable insulated

How to insulate the second floor of a wooden house from the attic gable? The algorithm of work in this case is as follows:

installation of beams on the walls of the gable;
the distance from 1 beam to another should be equal to the thickness of the insulation sheet plus 0.5-1.0 cm;
the first layer is a vapor barrier material;
further - installation of mineral wool slabs;
again - vapor barrier;
sheathing with any finishing material.

It is worth noting that lining is most often used in wooden houses for finishing the attic. There are many reasons for this: the natural origin of the material, high environmental friendliness. Excellent external characteristics lamellas allow you to create unique interior premises.

Important: the fewer holes and seams in the attic insulation, the better the project will be to save heat inside the home.

Thermal insulation of the loggia and windows on the second floor

The “weak” point of any room and attic, including glass surfaces, window and door openings. Through them, the lion's for warmth from the premises flows. Even if the loggias were originally installed in the window and doorway plastic double-glazed windows, it is necessary to additionally insulate the slopes.

material for window insulation door slope on the 2nd floor wooden building any can be chosen, but experts recommend using polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, or any other cellular product.

An important point - it is possible to insulate windows and a loggia only at the stage of building a house - clearances are required for the installation of insulation.

Insulation of the second floor of any modern wooden house from the inside requires not only the technically correct execution of all work, but also the competent selection of insulation.

Types of insulation and calculation of materials for the second floor

Comparative characteristics thermal conductivity of various thermal insulation materials. Click on the photo to enlarge.

The attic loses heat much more actively than the rooms on the lower floor. The reason is simple - there is a roof above it, so the contact area with external environment an order of magnitude more. Thus, high-quality thermal insulation is required, but thermal insulation cannot be neglected, otherwise in hot weather hot air will get inside.

Calculations can be made using the formula for the design heat transfer resistance of the wall - Rreq = (1 / A1) + (L / k) + (1 / A2). In this case:

A1 - heat transfer coefficient for the entire plane inner wall– 8.7 W/m C;
A2 - a similar coefficient, but related to outer wall– 23 W/m С;
L is the thickness of the insulation (in meters);
k is the thermal conductivity coefficient.

For determining required thickness the insulation layer for the second floor is required to compare the thickness of the wall with the resulting calculations. It is also worth considering the type of material from which the building was built. Further, it is recommended to immediately calculate the surface area to be insulated, excluding the parameters of window and door openings.

Then comes the turn of the choice of insulation. Since the attic will be residential, the heat insulator must also be environmentally friendly. To make sure of this, you need to take a hygiene certificate from the seller, in which the following points are noted:

environmental suitability of the insulation;
thermal conductivity class;
suitability for hygroscopicity.

Styrofoam

fiberboard

For the second floor, fiberboards are excellent, which are often mounted under the roof. Their insulation guarantees good performance sound insulation, as well as the absence of deformation during sudden temperature changes. Installation is convenient and does not take much time - you can cut the pieces necessary for the configuration with an ordinary knife, and dowels are used for fixing. The front side of fiberboard is smooth, which allows you to glue any wallpaper on it. Low price insulation also plays an important role.

If fiberboard is used for floor insulation, then the old coating is first torn off, after which 2 layers of roofing material are laid, which are covered with fiberboard boards. A new one is already mounted on top of them. flooring.

glass wool

This is the cheapest insulation, suitable for those whose budget is strictly limited. The material itself has excellent fire resistance and thermal conductivity. A serious disadvantage is the inconvenience of work, since glass chips and dust are poured from cotton wool, so during work it is necessary to be dressed in protective clothing, goggles and gloves. It is worth remembering that it will be impossible to clean the clothes from glass crumbs, so they will have to be thrown away.

Mineral wool as a heater. Click on the photo to enlarge.

This wool, made on a basalt basis, is considered the best option for a wooden house. Its manufacture comes from synthetic fibers that are mixed with crushed stone chips. The density of the insulation should range from 18 to 45 kg / m³. It is environmentally friendly, does not deteriorate by pests and rodents, and also has excellent sound insulation performance.

Insulation of the 2nd floor with mineral wool is absolutely safe. Minus - a higher cost compared to glass wool.

Regardless of the material used, in the process of warming the second floor, a vapor barrier is necessary - a vapor barrier membrane or vapor barrier film. Its task is to prevent the formation of condensate inside the heat-insulating layer during the exit warm air from inside the building to the street. Otherwise, the characteristics of the heat insulator are sharply reduced.

When using a fibrous type insulation, a windproof film is additionally required, since under conditions strong wind fibers are unable to effectively retain heat. If the insulation is mounted in several layers, there is no need to glue the film between them.

outdoor work

A prerequisite - the insulation of the house is carried out in warm and dry weather. It all starts with a surface inspection. Further, all wooden components must be treated with an antiseptic, and metal components with anticorrosive. It is also necessary to thoroughly dry damp areas. If the tree is damaged by insects, it is changed.

in a log house rafter system created from wooden beams. So the waterproofing film is glued directly onto these logs, after which the crate is created and the roof is installed. Warming from the inside occurs by laying the material between the rafters with its fixation on top of the vapor barrier, as well as finishing plasterboard lining. It is not worth ramming a fibrous type insulation - it is necessary to cut out pieces of material with a small allowance and insert them between the rafters. If installation is to be soft roof, then OSB-boards or moisture-resistant plywood are laid directly on the crate, after which a roof is created.

Internal work

Scheme of the device of layered rafters. Click on the photo to enlarge.

On the this moment there are 3 most known methods.

The first - thermal insulation is laid between the rafters. The material must adjoin the chimney, windows and walls tightly enough, and there must also be a 2-centimeter gap between the layers of hydro and thermal insulation. It is also necessary to take into account the expansion of the material, which can reach 10-30 cm, like mineral wool, for which an appropriate gap must be left. If the width of the lag does not allow this, linings are stuffed on them. The main thing is to prevent sagging of the insulation mats.

The second is complex work. They provide for the use of materials that, along with the main property, have indicators of hydroprotection. This necessitates a more thorough installation of thermal insulation, since the question arises regarding air circulation. A similar approach will also “eat up” part of the room on the 2nd floor, because the heat insulator with the rest of the materials is mounted by seam joints either above or below the rafters.

The third is the installation of insulation over the rafters. It allows you to save the volume of the room and ensure the reliability of waterproofing.

Working with mineral wool

Warming of the 2nd floor of any wooden house in terms of area is possible by means of mineral wool.

To get started, you need to purchase mineral wool, bring it to the place of work and open the package – no comments. The material will gain air and noticeably increase in volume. Protective clothing must be put on before work, and the room itself must be well ventilated.

After that, a vapor barrier film is stretched with its obligatory alignment and fixation with a stapler. The overlap during laying should be 10 cm, and the joints must be glued with a special adhesive tape (but not with ordinary tape!).

for framing window openings at home, a crate is mounted in increments of 40-60 cm. The vertical bars are fixed with self-tapping screws, while a base beam is stuffed under them, where there will be a junction of drywall and film. The entire frame is filled with a heat insulator.

A frame for stuffing drywall is created on the end side of the house in increments of 50 cm. The first slab of material is clamped with profiles. A vapor barrier film is glued on top of the thermal insulation. All joints and the perimeter are glued with the same adhesive tape. Drywall is fixed with self-tapping screws. This is where the insulation ends.

Upon completion of these works, you can proceed to the decoration of the house and the installation of heating equipment.

After the roof was finished, we started insulating the slopes and the ceiling of the second floor. Before frost, they also planned to stretch the vapor barrier to protect the insulation from moisture penetration from the living quarters. This should have allowed us to install a stove on the second floor.
We started with the simplest: with the insulation of the mezzanine.

I am insulating the ground floor.

At the same moment, the task arose to close the edges of the slopes with something. Since this place is not “finishing” and next year it will be closed with an external frame, it was decided to use the old hardboard left over from the dismantled fragments of the House Proper.

Zhenya is sawing hardboard.

We arrive at the destination.

The edges of the slopes are completely closed. Now the slopes can be insulated.

From the very beginning, we assumed that the insulation of the slopes would result in a fair amount of hemorrhoids, since the insulation, no matter how tightly it was thrust into the crate, would fall out under its own weight. As a result, they insulated together: I held the insulation, and Zhenya brought new mats. And over each insulated cell they pulled and stapled twine so that the insulation would not fall out. The method may seem strange, but in our opinion it justified itself.
The beginning of the insulation of slopes.

We put the insulation in three layers, it turns out 150 mm.

The slope is insulated with a layer of 150 mm. And this is our future room, with a window to the south.

We finish warming the gables.

We install a vapor barrier.

There was a ceiling.

Guest bedroom facing north. Window hole currently filled with insulation. The joints of the vapor barrier sheets on the ceiling are glued with butyl rubber tape and smeared with bitumen rubber mastic.

We proceed to the manufacture of the crate for the next two layers of insulation.

We cut out the second board for the crate.

We fix the board in place.

The crate is ready. It is made of board, 100 mm wide. The total thickness of the insulation layer on the slopes will be 250 mm.

We warm on a new crate. Finished the bottom row.

Started the top.

And this is the space of the cold triangle, the “third floor” of the House Actually, which will not be accessible from inside the house. Redhead is inner side membranes Isospan AM, which is temporarily tightened ventilation window. At the bottom you can see the vapor barrier (the ceiling of the second floor), the crate 150 mm wide and the insulation inside it. This is the initial stage of ceiling insulation.

Third floor: facing north. Part of the ceiling, which also needs to be insulated.

Lateral parts of the cold triangle.

Zhenya, busy insulating the ceiling.

North side again. Now three layers of insulation are already in place and a crate of boards 150 mm wide has begun for the next three layers.

And here's how the insulation gets to the third floor. I cut it to size and serve Zhenya from the ladder.

The ceiling is insulated with a layer of 250 mm. In principle, this is enough, but there is room for another 50 mm insulation. Perhaps we will report them at the moment when we finish building the “birdhouse” to the rafters, in which the second floor bathroom will be located. In the foreground is a fully insulated pipe.

Farewell look at the interior of the cold triangle. There remains the last hole through which Zhenya will now go down, and which will be insulated from below.

The hole is closed. The cold triangle is closed.

The oven has been installed.

During the New Year holidays, we plan to finish the second floor from the inside. And then proceed to the insulation of the ceiling between the first and second floors and the installation of the floor.

In the meantime - a few photos that are not related to construction.

late autumn I sawed the very old pile of illiquid boards for firewood.

They were stacked on the porch of the House Proper, in order to be burned in the winter in that same stove...

... And those that did not fit on the porch were piled up under such a hastily laid out canopy. We also plan to put firewood here if we are going to go to the forest for them. So far, it has not worked out: a lot of things to do at home.

Another of the events worthy of mention: at my request

All photos from the article

To make a wooden house comfortable for living in winter time, without having to spend large sums for its heating, it is necessary to devote Special attention insulation. In particular, it is imperative to ensure high-quality thermal insulation of the second floor, because, as you know, heat rises up and can leave the room through the roof. Therefore, further we will consider how to properly insulate the second floor of a wooden house.

General information

First of all, it should be said that the insulation of wooden housing requires a special approach. The point is that the main advantage wooden houses is their ability to “breathe”, thanks to which a microclimate favorable for humans is formed in the premises. Accordingly, insulation should not affect this quality.

Therefore, for a wooden house, only vapor-permeable insulation is used and a vapor barrier is required. In addition, wood is a combustible material, therefore, in the process of insulation, it is necessary to take care of fire safety.

Insulation of the second floor of a wooden house consists of several stages:

Warming interfloor overlap;
Thermal insulation of walls;
thermal insulation attic floor.

Let's take a closer look at each of these steps below.

Interfloor overlap

The process of floor insulation involves laying a heat insulator between the beams. This operation it is more convenient to carry out from the side of the second floor, in this case the heat insulator is laid on the panels, which serve as the ceiling of the first floor.

As for the insulation, you can use mineral mats, which have all the necessary properties and at the same time the price for them is quite affordable. Also an excellent option is ecowool and expanded clay.

Warming between floors in a wooden house is performed as follows:

It is necessary to begin the process with the dismantling of the floor covering.
Then a vapor barrier film is overlapped on the boards and beams.
Next, the space is filled with a heat insulator. If mineral mats are used for these purposes, then there should be no gaps between them and the beams.
Then a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the beams.
At the end of the work, the floor covering is laid.

This completes the insulation process. I must say that it is not always possible to perform thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the second floor.

In this case, the insulation is mounted by hand from below in the following sequence:

First dismantled ceiling covering.
Then, using a construction stapler, a waterproofing film is attached.
Next, mineral mats are mounted, which are fixed with wooden slats.
Then another layer of vapor barrier is attached with a stapler and a ceiling covering is mounted, for example, drywall or chipboard.

Note!
According to the same principle, the floor of the first floor is insulated in a wooden house, the only thing is that the base is covered with a waterproofing film, and not with a vapor barrier.

Wooden houses are very popular in suburban areas, as they feel a special comfort and closeness to nature, which are so lacking in urban residents. In order to arrange such comfort, it is necessary to properly process the house.

In contact with

Floor insulation
Insulation of walls outside and inside
Ceiling insulation
Roof insulation
Conclusion

In order for the house to properly retain heat, it should be insulated, both outside and inside. This article will specifically consider the methods of warming a wooden house - from the foundation to the roof. We also consider the workflow for proper insulation wooden house with their own hands.

First, let's look at the most popular and efficient technologies for warming.

Technologies for warming a wooden house

There are a considerable number of ways for warming, in most of them they differ from each other depending on the materials used in the process.

We will consider the following 5 methods of warming a wooden house:

Technology "warm seam".
Warming with mineral wool.
Insulation of walls with foam or polyethylene.
Styrofoam.
Insulation with special multilayer boards.

So, let's take a closer look at each of these methods and get acquainted with the sequence of actions for applying a particular method.

"Warm Seam"

In cases where the wood on the wall is part of the interior and has beautiful visual properties, the “warm seam” technology is used to insulate the wall of a wooden house, which involves insulating and increasing the reliability of the joints between the logs. It is recommended to insulate the seams on both sides of the house to improve the quality of the joints.

Previously, for the insulation of joints, materials such as tape tow, flax, linen rope, interventional seals, etc. were used.

Now, when more modern materials have appeared, sealing the seams has become easier and more reliable. The appearance on the building materials market of synthetic sealants on a latex, silicone, acrylic, paper and rubber basis has accelerated the process of insulating the seams of a wooden house. Sealants have elasticity, which is the key to reliable fastening of logs.

Also, a reliable insulating material for insulation is a heat-insulating insulation cord, which is made of polyurethane, and is manually installed in the slot.

List of specific advantages of modern interventional sealants:

High tightness, providing resistance to harsh atmospheric conditions and mechanical stress.
Material durability. The sealant does not become obsolete, does not dry out, does not shrink for decades.
The sealant does not attract animals, especially birds, which can harm the inter-seam insulation material.
Ease of use. It is enough just to apply one layer of sealant to the joint space.
Profitability. This material is sold at an affordable price for everyone.
The sealant has the ability to pass steam, which allows you to release unwanted moisture.
Fire resistance. Sealant is non-flammable

First, clean the joint or crack from dust and dirt.
Treat the area for insulation antiseptic impregnation.
Using adhesive tape or other adhesive material, seal the surface of the logs around the gap being processed in order to protect the surface from getting sealant on it.
Fill the gaps with sealant, carefully ensuring that there is no unfilled space in the depth - the sealant must adhere well to the surface. Then you need to grease the joints.
Before applying paint or varnish, you should wait for the sealant to dry completely.

Judging by the above facts, the sealant is an affordable and reliable material for wall insulation. The use of sealant does not require special skills and high costs.

The next way to insulate a wooden house is to use mineral wool.

Warming with mineral wool

In this case, the tree will be hidden from view behind insulating layer. So this technology is often not suitable for those who want to show off the quality or beauty of a wooden wall.

Several types of mineral wool are used for wall insulation, such as glass wool and slag or basalt wool. They have all the properties necessary for reliable insulation - mineral wool insulation keeps heat well, they are fireproof, noise-absorbing and durable.

The main disadvantage of this material is its vulnerability to moisture. Therefore, all gaps and joints should be carefully sealed, since when cold outside air and warmer inside air are combined, moisture condensation occurs. So try to isolate thermal insulation layer from moisture and steam.

Also, when installing an insulating layer of mineral wool, it should be noted that the material should not closely adjoin wooden surface- air must circulate freely between the insulation layer and the wood. Therefore, if the logs have a log house, you should nail them to wooden slats up to 3 cm wide, and then lay vapor barrier sheets and a layer of mineral wool on these slats.

In a situation with log cabin no action will have to be taken, the mineral wool layer will not fit snugly against the rounded surface of the logs.

On top of the cotton wool layer, a drywall frame should be built from wooden beams of small diameter. Drywall or other facing covering, which should be placed in the frame cells, will complete the process of thermal insulation.

Advantages of using insulating mineral wool:

Durability.
Fire resistance.
Noise isolation.
Thermal insulation.

The main disadvantage of mineral wool is the strong effect of moisture.

So, thermal insulation from mineral wool requires a lot of work and its high precision. The cost of mineral wool is not the biggest. So if you need reliable and high-quality thermal insulation, mineral wool will not be a bad choice.

Wall insulation with foam

Penofol has a foil surface on one side, and polyethylene foam on the other. The foil reflects radiant heat and keeps it indoors. And polyethylene is a vapor barrier and holds heat well.

The process of installing penofol is very simple:

Its strips are directly attached to the walls. As in the previous case, space should be left for free air circulation, therefore, if the walls consist of a bar, penofol must be installed on the slats.
The strips are fastened with an overlap of 10 cm.
The gaps are sealed with foil tape.
Then it is necessary to install the frame for the cladding, also at a distance of about 2 cm, from the heat-insulating layer.
At the end, we sheathe the frame with any facing material.

Foam insulation

Styrofoam is rarely used for internal insulation of wooden houses, due to its large thickness and fire hazard. In its structure, the foam is similar to polystyrene foam, but the second option is more expensive, although it has good fire resistance. Styrofoam is much cheaper and easier to use.

Process installation work passes the same way as with mineral wool - a vapor barrier layer is installed, foam plastic is laid on it, and a frame and sheathing material are laid on top of the foam plastic.

Warming with OSB boards

Oriented strand boards are in high demand as insulation material. They consist of several (3-4) layers wood shavings different breeds(the most common wasp shavings), held together with resin, wax and boric acid.

Such material has good advantages, in fact, because of them, it is so popular:

Moisture resistance.
Durability.
High strength, reliability.
Plates do not delaminate.
Easy Installation and material processing.

Plate installation

Unlike previous methods, OSB boards do not require the installation of additional vapor barrier material, since they themselves are highly resistant to moisture. You just need to attach the plates to the wall with dowels, leaving 2-3 centimeters for air circulation. After gluing a reinforced thermal mesh to the surface of the plate, you can apply a layer of putty on it and then paint it.

OSB boards have collected the advantages of all other insulation technologies and do not have their disadvantages, so this technology can be called the most optimal for insulating wooden houses.

Insulation of the foundation outside and inside

There are three ways to insulate the foundation of a wooden house:

Expanded clay insulation.
Insulation with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene.
Spraying polyurethane foam.

More specifically, you can learn more about the insulation of the foundation of a wooden house from the outside and from the inside in special articles.

Wood floor basement insulation

Same thing with the foundation. Exactly the same methods of insulation are used.

Floor insulation

The floors of wooden houses are insulated with the following materials - mineral wool, fiberglass, polystyrene foam, stone wool and penoplex.

The main thing when warming the floor is choosing the right one for specific situation material. More specifically, the process of floor insulation is described in a special article.

For wall insulation, external and internal insulation is used as well as for the foundation. You can read about the insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside and from the inside in our separate articles.

Warming of the second floor of a wooden house

In general, the 2nd floor is no different from the first, and the same methods and materials are used for insulation, but there are a few nuances that need to be noticed.

main feature second floor - often it is located under an unheated roof or attic. Therefore, for its insulation, mineral wool is most often used, which has very good thermal insulation.

Vata is installed in three ways:

Between the rafters. By pressing a layer of cotton wool, at least 20 cm thick.
Under the rafters and between them. This will require the construction of a holding frame.
Under the rafters. This method rarely used, as it reduces the volume of the room.

If there is an attic on top of the floor, in the process of insulating the ceiling, an additional vapor barrier layer should be installed. It is needed to avoid the penetration of steam into an unheated attic.

The insulation of the ceiling has already been mentioned above. The method of insulation and the materials used depend on what is above the ceiling - a heated floor, roof, or attic. Read more about ceiling insulation in our separate article.

Roof insulation

When choosing a method of thermal insulation of the roof, its shape or type is primarily taken into account.

But there is one main rule for roof insulation - be sure to use a vapor barrier material to avoid the combination of warm and cold air and the occurrence of moisture.

You will learn more about roof insulation by reading the following article.

Conclusion

This article about the internal thermal insulation of a wooden house ends. In conclusion, here are the main rules for successful insulation:

choose quality material taking into account climatic conditions and physical exercise which he has to endure.
The most reliable will be insulation both inside and outside the house.
Close cracks and gaps carefully, leave room for air to circulate between the wall and the insulation material, and do not forget to install a vapor barrier.

In contact with

See inaccuracies, incomplete or incorrect information? Do you know how to make an article better?

Would you like to suggest photos for publication on a topic?

Please help us make the site better! Leave a message and your contacts in the comments - we will contact you and together we will make the publication better!

en-house.net

Insulation of the floor of the second floor in a wooden house

Insulation of the floor of the second floor in a wooden house may be required in several situations. Most often it is performed when the first is located cold attic. However, similar work is often carried out in the case of interfloor overlapping. In both versions, the scheme of insulation produced is almost the same. The only exception is that in the second case, the vapor barrier is laid somewhat differently, which can hardly be called a significant difference.

How to insulate the floor of the second floor of a wooden house

Floor insulation in a wooden house on the second floor, like any other similar type of work, in fact, consists in creating a heat-insulating "pie". Its composition is almost always traditional, however, it may vary slightly depending on the specific conditions of use. In the case of an interfloor overlap, it will look like this:

wooden frame or crate and subfloor;
vapor barrier;
thermal insulation material;
vapor barrier;
finished plank floor or floor covering.

The work on the device of the above-described "pie" can be carried out both from the inside, that is, from the side of the first floor, and from the outside, from the second. The main task at the same time is to ensure reliable insulation of the insulation used from moisture ingress, no matter if it is from below or above. This is due to the fact that almost all heat-insulating materials quickly lose their properties and characteristics when wet. As a result, you may need expensive repairs associated with replacing the insulation with a new one.

When floor insulation is performed in the log house on the second floor, special attention should be paid to the top layer of vapor barrier. Since the second floor is residential, in fact, it plays the role of waterproofing, preventing moisture from entering the insulation from above. At the same time, it should not prevent the water that somehow got into the heat-insulating material from evaporating. Currently, quite a large number of relatively inexpensive materials with similar properties.

They should be even more pronounced when there is a cold attic above the first floor. With this design, the moisture in the insulation should evaporate freely and go up. This is mandatory for the long-term operation of the heat-insulating "pie". In any case, the insulation of the floor of the second floor in a house made of logs is highly desirable, and sometimes even necessary for a comfortable and comfortable living.

Materials for insulation

In order to insulate the floor on the second floor, you will need three main types of materials. It is quite logical to consider each of them separately. Perfect for framing and rough flooring ordinary timber and board, which were also used in other stages of construction. The only thing that needs to be done is the treatment with flame retardants and antiseptics, which allows you to maximize the life of the material. Currently on the market huge number various compositions for impregnating or coating lumber, and they are quite affordable. Therefore, it is extremely inappropriate to neglect the implementation of such preparatory work.

Any of the following can be used as a vapor barrier. modern materials, which in recent times there was just a huge amount. The most commonly used polyethylene and polypropylene films, membranes and other materials similar in characteristics and properties. Their choice almost entirely depends on the tastes and wishes of the customer, since the properties are largely identical, as well as the cost.

The choice of insulation is a more important and responsible event, since it is on its properties and characteristics that the success of the insulation of the floor of the second floor in a wooden house largely depends. Currently the most commonly used the following materials:

various types of mineral wool. The most popular material, which has become widespread due to its excellent combination performance characteristics and cost. In addition, it is easy to use, non-flammable (with rare exceptions) and has sufficient durability;
Styrofoam. It is quite possible that this material would become the most common, but its serious drawback is flammability, which is very important in a wooden house. Otherwise, it is practically in no way inferior to mineral wool, even surpassing it in a number of parameters;
expanded clay. Traditional, cheap and the most affordable material that continues to be used quite often. But, nevertheless, its main application is associated with the insulation of the first floor and roofing. It is rather inefficient to use it in the case of an interfloor overlap, since a serious thickness is also required for high-quality floor insulation in a wooden house on the second floor. As a result, a large amount of living space is lost.

Other heat-insulating materials (penofol, extruded polystyrene foam, etc.) are used much less frequently than those described above. However, their use is quite possible, since for the most part they are modern and have parameters that are in many ways superior even to mineral wool.

17/03/2017

www.srubdacha.ru

How to insulate the second floor of a wooden house: features of the interfloor overlap. Internal and external thermal insulation

All photos from the article

In order for a wooden house to be comfortable for living in the winter, and at the same time you do not have to spend large sums on heating it, you need to pay special attention to warming. In particular, it is imperative to ensure high-quality thermal insulation of the second floor, because, as you know, heat rises up and can leave the room through the roof. Therefore, further we will consider how to properly insulate the second floor of a wooden house.

Thermal insulation of the second floor of a wooden house from the inside

General information

First of all, it should be said that the insulation of wooden housing requires a special approach. The fact is that the main advantage of wooden houses is their ability to “breathe”, thanks to which a microclimate favorable for humans is formed in the premises. Accordingly, insulation should not affect this quality.

Insulation of the second floor of a wooden house consists of several stages:

Insulation of the interfloor overlap;
Thermal insulation of walls;
Thermal insulation of the attic floor.

Let's take a closer look at each of these steps below.

Scheme of installation of thermal insulation of the floor

Interfloor overlap

The process of floor insulation involves laying a heat insulator between the beams. This operation is more convenient to perform from the side of the second floor, in this case the heat insulator is placed on the panels that serve as the ceiling of the first floor.

Warming between floors in a wooden house is performed as follows:

It is necessary to begin the process with the dismantling of the floor covering.
Then a vapor barrier film is overlapped on the boards and beams.
Next, the space is filled with a heat insulator. If mineral mats are used for these purposes, then there should be no gaps between them and the beams.
Then a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the beams.
At the end of the work, the floor covering is laid.

Laid mineral mats between floors

This completes the insulation process. I must say that it is not always possible to perform thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the second floor.

In this case, the insulation is mounted by hand from below in the following sequence:

First, the ceiling covering is dismantled.
Then, using a construction stapler, a waterproofing film is attached.
Next, mineral mats are mounted, which are fixed with wooden slats.
Then another layer of vapor barrier is attached with a stapler and a ceiling covering is mounted, for example, drywall or chipboard.

Note! According to the same principle, the floor of the first floor is insulated in a wooden house, the only thing is that the base is covered with a waterproofing film, and not with a vapor barrier.

Insulation of the wooden floor of the 1st floor with mineral mats

Walls

Thermal insulation of walls can be done in two ways:

Let's take a look at all of these options below.

Scheme of thermal insulation of walls from the inside

Internal

Thermal insulation from the inside is usually performed only in cases where, for some reason, it is not possible to make insulation from the outside.

This is due to some disadvantages of such a solution:

Decreases usable space premises.
The outer walls remain cold, which still leads to a cooling of the house to some extent.
In the space between the insulation and the wall, condensation may occur, which leads to the formation of mold.

True, if you follow the technology, then these shortcomings can be minimized.

So instructions for internal insulation looks like that:

First, the walls are processed - the gaps between the crowns, if any, are filled with tow. In addition, the surface should be treated with antiseptic impregnation, which will prevent rotting and mold.
Further, wooden slats about 2 cm thick are horizontally attached to the wall, which provide ventilation of the space under the heat insulator.
Then it is tightly attached to the rails vapor barrier membrane.
After that, vertical racks are fixed to the ventilation crate. The latter can be used wooden beam or aluminum profile like for drywall. The spacing of the posts should be slightly less than the width of the mineral mats.
Further, mineral mats are laid in the space between the racks.
The final step is to attach another layer of vapor barrier.
After that to uprights fastened finishing material- lining, drywall, chipboard, etc.

External wall insulation

External insulation

The dry method of insulation or, as it is also called, the ventilated facade is performed in the same way as thermal insulation from the inside. The only thing, in this case, do not install a ventilation crate.

Concerning wet facade, then the insulation is carried out in the following sequence:

After preparing the walls, mineral mats are glued to them. special composition and are additionally fixed with dowels "umbrellas".

In the photo - fixing mineral mats with dowels-umbrellas

Then a reinforcing mesh is glued to the insulation with the same composition. The mixture is leveled with a wide spatula.
Next, a thin layer of glue is applied and the walls are carefully leveled.
After that, plaster is applied to the walls. If the coating is colorless, then the facade can be additionally coated with facade paint.

Note! In the process of gluing the heat insulator, it is necessary to use a level, and also to pull threads along the walls as beacons so that the walls turn out to be even.

Here, perhaps, are all the main points for the implementation of a wet facade.

Thermal insulation of the attic floor with expanded clay

Attic floor

Thermal insulation of the attic floor is carried out according to the same principle as the interfloor. The only thing is that the vapor barrier is laid with the rough side outward, which will allow steam to be removed from the room, but moisture will not penetrate into the insulation from the side of the roof.

If the house is made with an attic, then thermal insulation is carried out from the inside, according to the principle of ceiling insulation.

Conclusion

Warming the second floor of a wooden house is a simple procedure that you can do yourself. The only thing is that it requires compliance with the technology, since not only the quality of thermal insulation depends on this, but also the safety of the walls of the house.

Get some extra useful information on the topic indicated above, you can from the video in this article.

rubankom.com

We warm the second floor of a wooden house

Insulation of the second floor of any modern wooden house from the inside requires not only the technically correct execution of all work, but also the competent selection of insulation.

Types of insulation and calculation of materials for the second floor

Comparative characteristics of the thermal conductivity of various thermal insulation materials

The attic loses heat much more actively than the rooms on the lower floor. The reason is simple - there is a roof above it, so the area of contact with the external environment is an order of magnitude larger. Thus, high-quality thermal insulation is required, but thermal insulation cannot be neglected, otherwise hot air will penetrate inside in hot weather.

Calculations can be made using the formula for the design heat transfer resistance of the wall - Rreq = (1 / A1) + (L / k) + (1 / A2). In this case:

A1 - heat transfer coefficient for the entire plane of the inner wall - 8.7 W / m C; A2 - a similar coefficient, but related to the outer wall - 23 W / m C; L is the thickness of the insulation (in meters); k is the thermal conductivity coefficient. To determine the required thickness of the insulation layer for the second floor, it is required to compare the thickness of the wall with the resulting calculations. It is also worth considering the type of material from which the building was built. Further, it is recommended to immediately calculate the surface area to be insulated, excluding the parameters of window and door openings.

environmental suitability of the insulation;
thermal conductivity class;
suitability for hygroscopicity.

Styrofoam

fiberboard

For the second floor, fiberboards are excellent, which are often mounted under the roof. Their insulation guarantees good sound insulation performance, as well as the absence of deformations during sudden temperature changes. Installation is convenient and does not take much time - you can cut the pieces necessary for the configuration with an ordinary knife, and dowels are used for fixing. The front side of fiberboard is smooth, which allows you to glue any wallpaper on it. The low price of insulation also plays an important role.

glass wool

mineral wool

Mineral wool as a heater

Insulation of the 2nd floor with mineral wool is absolutely safe. Minus - a higher cost compared to glass wool.

Regardless of the material used, in the process of warming the second floor, a vapor barrier is necessary - a vapor barrier membrane or a vapor barrier film. Its task is to prevent the formation of condensate inside the heat-insulating layer during the exit of warm air from inside the room to the street. Otherwise, the characteristics of the heat insulator are sharply reduced.

When using a fibrous type insulation, a windproof film is additionally required, since in conditions of strong wind the fibers are not able to effectively retain heat. If the insulation is mounted in several layers, there is no need to glue the film between them.

outdoor work

In a log house, the truss system is made of wooden beams. So the waterproofing film is glued directly onto these logs, after which the crate is created and the roof is installed. Warming from the inside occurs by laying the material between the rafters with its fixation on top of the vapor barrier, as well as finishing plasterboard lining. It is not worth ramming a fibrous type insulation - it is necessary to cut out pieces of material with a small allowance and insert them between the rafters. If a soft roof is to be installed, then OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood are laid directly on the crate, after which a roof is created.

Internal work

Scheme of the device of layered rafters

At the moment there are 3 most famous methods.

The third is the installation of insulation over the rafters. It allows you to save the volume of the room and ensure the reliability of waterproofing.

Working with mineral wool

Warming of the 2nd floor of any wooden house in terms of area is possible by means of mineral wool.

First you need to purchase mineral wool, bring it to the place of work and open the package – no comments. The material will gain air and noticeably increase in volume. Protective clothing must be put on before work, and the room itself must be well ventilated.

To frame the window openings of the house, a crate is mounted in increments of 40-60 cm. The vertical bars are fixed with self-tapping screws, while a base bar is stuffed under them, where the drywall and film will meet. The entire frame is filled with a heat insulator.

Upon completion of these works, you can proceed to the decoration of the house and the installation of heating equipment.