Swing gates made of corrugated sheets for a summer residence - do-it-yourself manufacturing and installation. Should the gate posts be secured together?

Gates and wickets made of corrugated sheets belong to the budget category: their production does not take much time and materials. True, if you choose a model of ordinary swing gates without artistic additions. There are also options with forging elements, here the complexity of the work is greater, the costs are much higher. Even an amateur welder can make simple swing gates from corrugated sheets with his own hands: there are few seams, they are simple.

Sash designs

Even such a simple design as a gate leaf or wicket can be made in different ways, and there are many options. First of all, the location of the jumpers differs:

obliquely;
horizontally;
crosswise.

Each method is tested and works, providing a sufficient degree of rigidity. Here you choose what seems more correct or reliable to you.

There is a difference in the design of the gate itself - with or without a stationary frame (top crossbar). With a frame, the gate is more stable, but then there are height restrictions: tall vehicles - trucks or special equipment - will not be able to enter the yard. With proper reinforcement of the racks (pillars) and properly made doors (with reinforcement in the corners), gates without a frame will also be reliable.

When installing a gate with a frame, the metal consumption is greater - per the length of the lintel, but the pillars can not be additionally reinforced: the load on them is less.

To make it more convenient to attach the profiled sheet, a thin-walled metal profile 1 cm wide is welded along the outer (sometimes internal, as in the figure above) perimeter of the sashes. This must be taken into account when determining the dimensions of the blanks for the sashes.

To make the structure as rigid as possible, so that it does not “walk” or make noise in the wind, reinforcements are made in the corners. And again there are two ways. The first is to weld the cut-out sheet metal corners.

The second is to install short corner jibs from the same pipe that was used to weld the sash frame.

There is also a difference during assembly: at the joints, the pipes are connected at an angle of 45° or simply end-to-end. More professional - at 45°, easier - end-to-end. Some assembly methods do not provide for the possibility of connecting at an angle at all (if both doors are assembled in one piece, and only those hung on poles are sawn into two parts).

Another subtlety that depends on the amount of snow in winter. As you can see in the photo, the bottom bar of the sashes is raised by different heights from the ground - somewhere a few centimeters, somewhere 20 cm and above. Depends on the height of the snow cover in winter: if snow piles up and the gates are as high as the ground, you won’t open them. To prevent any living creatures from climbing into this gap in the summer, after the snow has melted, a bar is screwed onto the screws, late autumn she is removed again.

The material for the gate is the same as for the gate, and it is attached to the same screws. Before starting work, the metal must be prepared: remove all rust (with an angle grinder and a wire brush), prime with Anti-Rust and paint. After drying, you can start working.

Photo report on the manufacture and installation of gates

This is one of the options for how to make a gate from corrugated sheets with your own hands. The technology is not the best, but not the worst either: everything has been functioning without problems for the past six years.

TO installed poles 80-80 mm hinges are welded, mating parts are welded at the required distance on the vertical parts of the racks made of 40*40 mm pipe - on the right and left. We hang the posts on hinges on the post, place a layer of the required thickness between them and the posts and secure them with a clamp.

We measure the required height and cut off the excess, from above to the racks, not to the posts, and weld a cross member from the same pipe 40*40 mm. The quality of the welding is not important at this stage. For now, we are tackling the parts, not worrying about the thoroughness of the seam - then we will bring it to standard. The main thing is that everything is smooth and stays together. Therefore, we grab it with dots in several places.

We grab the pipe at the bottom in the same way.

Find the middle of the cross beams. From the middle in both directions we set aside 3 mm. We make clear marks. We measure the distance between the upper and lower beams, cut off two sections, weld along the marks (between two vertical pipes there should be a gap of 6 mm).

We measure the distance between the two posts of one half of the gate. They should be the same, but it is better to measure separately. Cut the pipes to the required length and clamp them onto required height. If you need more crossbars, install them too.

Along the marked center with a grinder, we make through cuts at the top and bottom, dividing the gate into two halves. So very simply we got a gate that will open and close without any problems.

The gate frame is ready. We remove it, lay it on a flat horizontal surface and weld the seams well. This is where the quality of welding is important, we make sure the bath is full and try not to burn holes. We clean the finished seams, prime them, and paint them.

Let's start assembling the support for attaching the profile sheet. To reduce the windage, it was cut into two parts, so that the sheet was not whole, but cut. To do this, we use a profiled pipe 20*20 mm. We cut it into pieces of the required length, so that it can be secured along the inner perimeter.

We place them in the same plane as the outer part - the sheet will be screwed on from the inside. We fasten it with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes of the required diameter.

We paint the finished frame - inside with light gray paint, outside - red-brown, to match the color of the corrugated board. Leave to dry.

Let's start installing the profiled sheet on the gate. It is cut into a slightly smaller size than the main frame - there should be an indent of 2-3 mm around the perimeter. They are laid on prepared supports and secured from the inside around the perimeter with self-tapping screws.

Installation of profiled sheets on gates

You can take special ones, with caps and gaskets, but they put them on regular ones.

To save money we used regular self-tapping screws for metal

We can say that the gate is ready.

All that remains is to install the locks. You can, of course, install a lock and a handle, but the quality of inexpensive ones is very low, and buying expensive ones is this moment unaffordable luxury. Therefore, bolts were welded from the remains of pipes and fittings. They definitely work under any conditions.

One (the top one) is mounted on self-tapping screws with a counterpart on the sash, the two lower ones are attached to the racks. Small holes were drilled in the ground in the right places, in which sections were concreted round pipes, the diameter of which is greater than the diameter of the rod. The gate is made using the same method, only there is a lock embedded in it.

Do-it-yourself finished gates made of corrugated sheets

With this manufacturing technology, gate leaves are guaranteed to open and close. If there were some distortions when installing the pillars, they are taken into account. When presented step-by-step, the whole process does not look complicated, but it is. If you weld all the parts separately, the geometry must be ideal, and you also have to make sure that the pipe does not move during welding. Some different technologies For making gates from corrugated sheets, see the next section, where video lessons are collected.

How to make gates from corrugated sheets: video tutorials

If the work is new, then even after the photo report, questions may remain. Video tutorials on the topic can clarify some of them. To begin with, repeat the technology described above: we assemble the frame directly on the installed poles.

The same technology, in photo sequence.

The second video is about how to properly weld a frame when connecting pipes at an angle of 45°. The approach is professional.

Those who have not dealt with welding gates or doors before may have questions about how to weld hinges. It's not as simple as it seems. Let's watch the next video tutorial.

For a more precise explanation of what movements to make when welding gate hinges, where to direct the electrode and other nuances, see the following video.

A garage is not only a place where a car is parked. Often tools, equipment and other things are stored in it. To protect your garage from intruders, you need to strengthen its most vulnerable part - the gate. At the same time, it is not necessary to turn the garage into an impregnable fortress - it is enough to make it so strong that it would be unprofitable for thieves to break into it, so that it would be too time-consuming and troublesome for them. Weak gates endanger not only your property, but also neighboring garages, which intruders can get into by making a hole in the brick wall between garages. How to strengthen a garage door with your own hands?

Which gates need to be strengthened?

It is impossible to make a gate absolutely strong, but it is necessary to pay attention to its weak points. What makes the door the weak point of the garage?

Incomplete connection of the valves,
protruding loops for a padlock,
protruding hinges on which the doors hang,
weak locks,
flaps made of thin metal without stiffeners,
protruding handles to which a rope can be tied,
no alarm.

The easiest way to strengthen the gate is if it is swinging, as in most Russian garages.

This design allows for various modifications.

Choosing the right locks

Which locks are most resistant to burglary? Of course it's not padlocks. Locks that can be opened from the inside without a key are definitely not suitable. When purchasing a lock, immediately ask to see models specifically designed for installation in a garage. These are marked “G”. In the lock's passport, look at its resistance to burglary: it must be at least class three. Please note that locks marked “L” are placed on the left gate leaf when viewed from the hinge side. As for mechanisms, the most reliable are lever or disk ones.

It is best to install 2-3 overhead locks from the inside to strengthen the gate, welding them well. The distance between the locks should be about 40 cm. It is recommended to do this: make a window in the door that can be locked with a lock, through which the locks themselves open by touch. The deeper the lock is installed, the more difficult it is to open it. A flat lock is installed on the window; if there are bolt heads on the outside, they are welded so that the bolts cannot be cut off.

When installing locks, keep the following in mind:

You can additionally protect the lock like this. If on one side of the gate there is rack lock with a blade key, then a piece of rubber about 1 cm thick and approximately 10*10 cm in size is attached to the other side with the help of bolts. If attackers manage to bend the gate leaf and start sawing the lock, the rubber will not allow this to be done, at least quickly.

Loops padlocks They are also dangerous because you can attach a cable to them and simply tear the gate off with a truck. Therefore, they need to be cut down, as well as all the protruding handles on the outside. If you still want to leave the padlock, it needs to be protected. To do this, it is placed in a recess or protection is welded around it, for example, from a thick pipe. It is better to prefer special locks that press tightly to the surface of the gate.

If there is another door to enter the garage, then you can install a revolving bolt on the gate from the inside. It looks like the picture. The bolt itself is made from profile pipe or channel, and the brackets are metal or made of wooden blocks. The turntable rotates on a through bolt, which is not visible from the outside.

Strengthening sashes and hinges

For the gate to be reliable, it must be made of steel with a thickness of at least 3 mm, and the frame must be made from channel No. 5 or 6. The gate frame must be made from channel No. 6 and securely connected to the ceiling and beams.

Additionally, to protect against entry into the garage, you can install second lattice doors behind regular gates, which will be locked with a padlock. But this lock should be located not outside, but inside. WITH outside A metal plate covering it is welded to the gate. Thanks to which the lock will be completely invisible. They open it by touch, putting their hands through the grate.

If the garage is permanent, then the hooks in the slabs located near the gate are welded to the gate and additionally cemented. The hinges must be welded to the garage frame and reinforced. To do this, metal rods are welded to them to make cutting difficult. However, if the burglar is armed with an acetylene cutter, then this may not help. It is best if the hinges are not on the outside, but on the inside; end hinges with thrust bearings are considered reliable.

From the inside, metal pins are also welded onto the gate, protruding beyond its outline - the so-called “crabs”. When closed, they move out to the sides and fit into the holes on the walls. They will hold the gate in place and prevent it from opening or falling out, even if the hinges are cut down. A variety of such devices are ordinary large bolts with nuts. The nuts should be welded at the corners of the gate, and the bolts should pull the leaves to the frame when closing the gate. This design is not very convenient, but it is reliable and easy to manufacture.

To strengthen garage doors welding a frame from a metal corner of at least 75 mm and stiffeners. It is important to strengthen the corners.

A wide strip of steel is attached to one of the flaps so that it is impossible to insert a crowbar or other tool between the flaps. As practice shows, thieves choose garages in which the doors do not fit tightly together. Such gates are easy to open with a crowbar, and even more so with a hydraulic jack, for which a gap of only 8-4-5 cm is enough. To ensure a tight fit of the shutters from the inside, eccentric latches (clamps), such as in the photo, are installed. The doors can also be secured with long, strong hooks or vertical locks (latches).

You can increase the reliability of the gate by fixing the doors with bolts located in inconspicuous places. You can order special bolts, for example, with a pentagonal head, which you can unscrew only with the key you have.

Signaling

Also, for protection, you can set the garage to alarm the security service. Communication is carried out via dedicated radio channels; no wires need to be pulled. When a signal is received, a squad goes to the place. You can also install a “howler” alarm that makes loud sounds. Provide and disguise a switch for it.

All these measures apply to permanent garages, concrete or brick. Metal garages are difficult to protect well, especially if they are not secured to the floor or foundation. High-quality protection in such cases will be comparable in price to the garage itself. As for automatic gates, then they are produced with varying degrees of burglary protection. The advantage of them is that when broken into, the automatic drive jams, and even if the attacker gets inside, he will not be able to steal the car.

The gate is the face of the garage. The quality of their insulation determines the microclimate in the room. How well they function determines whether you can open the garage and drive your car out of it at any time.

Insulate garage doors and install Maintenance Most car owners can do it on their own. The appropriate tools and materials are available in every private household.

Insulation of garage doors

For many car owners, a garage is more than a place to park a car. Here you can equip a small workshop, make a warehouse for useful things, and finally spend time in the company of friends.

Needs maintenance in the garage optimal temperature both in winter and summer. According to building regulations, in a heated room this figure is +5 degrees. This will allow you not to warm up the car before starting and avoid the accumulation of moisture in hidden cavities.

Do I need to insulate garage doors (with an automatic mechanism, swing doors, overhead doors, sectional doors, swing doors, etc.)?

To determine whether your garage door needs to be insulated, just look at the thermal image. It shows that most of the heat leaves the room through uninsulated gates.

This factor is especially important for owners of built-in garages. Often the heating of such a room is included in the general house system. And heat loss through uninsulated gates will affect the entire house as a whole. Heat costs will increase.

Let's consider the types of gate structures and evaluate the need and possibility of their insulation.

Roller shutter structures consisting of individual aluminum slats. Some models have polyurethane foam inside. The fabric itself is wound on a shaft located above doorway. In view of design features insulation is not possible.
Sectional doors. It is based on sandwich panels filled with polyurethane foam. Additional insulation is not required, however, foam can be glued to the inside of the sections.
Swing gates. The most common design, consisting of two sashes hung on welded hinges. In the very simple version consist of a metal sheet welded to a steel frame. It is advisable to insulate such a structure during the construction stage, however, this can be done independently, after installing the gate.
The lift-and-turn design consists of one leaf. You can make it yourself or purchase products from famous manufacturer. Factory fabric is a panel made of durable sheet steel and insulation, which is often polyurethane foam. A thickness of 45 millimeters is enough to prevent heat loss. Homemade gate must be carefully insulated.

Such gates do not require additional insulation

Selecting material for insulation (foam plastic, penoizol, etc.)

When choosing high-quality insulation, you need to keep in mind several nuances. So, it’s not suitable for insulating garage doors. mineral wool and other porous materials. Most often, the thickness of the walls of a garage is much less than that of a residential building. Often, corrugated sheeting or a similar product is used as the main building material. When using porous insulation, a dew point forms in it. As water accumulates in the pores, its density and thermal conductivity increase. Ultimately, this minimizes the effectiveness of insulation.

Among the most suitable materials can be called:

Styrofoam. Inexpensive insulation obtained by dry heat treatment of polystyrene granules.
Expanded polystyrene. It is also developed on the basis of polystyrene, however, using melting. There are several varieties: extruded, pressed, unpressed. The main advantages are lightness, durability and ease of processing. The disadvantage is poor vapor permeability, as a result of which increased demands are placed on the insulated room in terms of ventilation.
Penoizol, which contains elements such as orthophosphoric acid, resins and carbide. Durable and durable material, flame resistant. However, low-quality penoizol can release toxic formaldehyde when burned.
Polyurethane foam is a sprayed insulation material with excellent heat saving properties. The material is actively used in various industries.

Inexpensive insulation for gates and walls

When insulating garage door it makes sense to choose between expanded polystyrene and polystyrene foam. The materials have the following differences:

Strength. Polystyrene foam is a hitch individual elements. Expanded polystyrene is a single substance. The bending strength of the latter is several times higher.
Permeability. Standard foam has voids that liquids can penetrate. Water absorption of polystyrene foam is much greater.
Price. Polystyrene foam is noticeably cheaper.

If resistance to heavy loads is not critical for you and you want to insulate your garage door with a simple and inexpensive material, your choice is foam. In other cases - polystyrene foam.

There is no point in saving on insulation. Otherwise, the effectiveness of the work performed will be zero. The thickness of the layer depends on the climate in which the garage is located. So, in the European part of the country the weather is moderate, not too cold, however, sometimes the temperature reaches minus 25 degrees. In such conditions, the following thickness of insulation is sufficient:

Polyurethane foam: 70 mm
Extruded polystyrene foam: 80 mm
Foam: 100 mm

Tools and materials

Before installation, you should carefully measure the garage door and calculate the amount of materials that will be required for insulation and cladding.

There are many facing materials on sale:

For cladding garage doors, 10 mm OSB-3 or OSB-4 boards, designed for rooms with high humidity. The standard product size is 1250*2500 mm. Two slabs are enough for finishing.

The cladding is attached to the sheathing. For this purpose small wooden blocks 40*40 mm, fixed to the supporting part of the gate structure. The boards are installed around the perimeter and on the canvas area.

The dimensions of the insulation may vary. They are selected based on the location of the sheathing: should be avoided large quantity scraps and strive to ensure that entire sheets of polystyrene foam are located between the individual bars.

In addition to materials, for high-quality insulation of gates you will need a set of household tools that most home craftsmen have:

Electric drill.
Electric screwdriver or set of screwdrivers.
Set of drills for wood and metal.
Hacksaw. If necessary, you can notice with a jigsaw.
A metal brush with stiff bristles. Necessary for surface cleaning.
Sandpaper
Measuring tools: tape measure, ruler, square.
Construction knife.
Fasteners - screws, wood screws.
Anti-corrosion primer and solvent, antiseptic.

How to insulate with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

The simplest way to insulate a gate is to lay a sheet of insulation directly between the frame posts, without any preparatory work. After which a suitable finishing material. However, the resulting structure will be short-lived and will not retain enough heat in the room.

Professional insulation of garage doors occurs in several stages:

Preparation

First of all, you need to treat the bars with an antiseptic in one or two layers. Remember individual means protection: wood impregnations contain aggressive chemicals.

After processing, the bars must dry. At this time, you need to prepare the gate for insulation. The surface of the canvas is carefully inspected, and if rust is detected, it is cleaned down to the metal with a stiff brush or drill attachment. If there is peeling paint, it must also be cleaned off. The resulting surface should not have rust spots and pollution. After this, the canvases are sequentially treated with a solvent and a primer.

After drying, the surface of the garage door needs to be waterproofed. If standard polystyrene foam is used as insulation, this operation is mandatory; when using extruded polystyrene foam, it can be skipped.

Waterproofing can be done using various methods:

By gluing isolon - a two-millimeter foil film made of polyethylene foam.
By gluing a membrane with a vapor barrier function.
Treatment with bitumen mastic.

Installation of sheathing

First of all, the beams are cut required size. Places where ventilation holes and locks are located are circumscribed and will not be insulated.

In the places where the block will be attached to the frame, you need to drill holes with a 4 mm drill. The optimal step is 20–25 centimeters. If you need the screw head to be flush with the canvas, you can make small indentations. An eight-millimeter drill is used for this. It is important not to overdo it and remove only the amount of metal that is necessary to hide the head.

Before fastening, the bars are pulled to the frame using clamps. To prevent the wood from cracking, you can additionally drill holes equal to the depth of the screw. A 2mm drill is used for this.

All bars located around the perimeter of the frame are installed in a similar way. Additional crossbars are attached with self-tapping screws to the end in increments of 20–25 centimeters.

Sheets of insulation will be placed in these cells

Installation of insulation

The space between the sheathing elements is filled with foam plastic or expanded polystyrene. For this:

The size of each cell is measured.
The insulation is cut according to the obtained dimensions. To do this you will need a construction knife and a ruler. On each side you need to leave a small margin - about 2-3 millimeters. This is necessary so that the elastic foam fits more tightly between the sheathing boards.
The insulation is fixed in the cells.

There are several ways to attach foam between the bars:

Using facing materials. In this case, the foam itself is not attached, but is pressed against OSB boards.
Using "liquid nails".
By using polyurethane foam. The material has excellent adhesion. If you choose this method, the surface must be moistened before applying the foam: hardening occurs only through direct contact with the liquid.

After installing the insulation, the remaining joints are sealed with polyurethane foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off with a knife.

In this case, the gates are insulated with foam plastic

Gate cladding

IN finishing After insulation of garage doors, OSB boards are often used. The products cover the sheathing and insulation, making the doors more presentable.

The main condition is either the absence of joints or their location on the bars. Therefore, before cutting the sheets, it is necessary to measure all surfaces.

For cutting, you can use either a regular wood hacksaw or a jigsaw, or a powerful one. a circular saw. The finished sheets are tried on at the site of future installation. If necessary, holes for locks are cut in them, ventilation holes etc. After this, you can attach the cladding.

The standard fastening pitch is 12–15 centimeters on racks located around the perimeter, and about 20 centimeters on transverse strips. To avoid cracking the wood, you can drill small holes with a small diameter bit before tightening the screws.

As facing material OSB boards can be used

Repair work: how to fix problems

A quality garage door can last for decades. However, with such a long-term operation, it is inevitable to carry out a number of works on their routine maintenance and repair. Most operations can be performed independently.

How to Raise a Garage Door That's Sagging

The main reasons why it may be necessary to change the geometry of the gate structure are:

General metal fatigue. Usually occurs after prolonged use.
Loop subsidence.
Possible deformations associated with poor-quality installation.
Doorway subsidence.
Other factors - for example, in hot sunny weather, deformation of the structure under the influence of high temperature is possible.

There are other reasons why the gate will need to be raised. The most common is purchasing new car, which is a little short in height.

Each problem requires an individual approach to correcting the geometry of the gate. Many methods are available for independent work using everyday tools.

Elimination of sagging loops. To lift the hinges on the gate leaf, a special spacer washer is used. The work is as follows:

The sash returns to its place. Using this method, you can straighten minor distortions of the gate leaves, raise the gate and make the structure move more freely. Important: the alloy from which the ball or washer is made must be harder than that used to create the loop.
A washer of a given thickness is placed on the axis of the lower loop. If a suitable part cannot be found, a metal ball of the required diameter is inserted into the loop hole.
The canvas is removed.

If you need to change the distance from the ground to the bottom of the sash, you can simply cut off part of the structure with a grinder and attach a rubber strip on top. This will help hide the gap that has formed. This method can be used if the bottom beam is located beyond the edges of the sheathing. If the crossbar is located close to the ground, you need to do the following:

Carefully cut off the horizontal crossbar with a grinder.
Trim the gate leaf to the required height.
if necessary, attach a small rubber strip to the gate, the width equal to the distance from the bottom of the gate to the ground.
weld the horizontal bar to the frame in a new place.

Sometimes the sashes become warped due to the deformation of the opening. In this case, you will have to either raise the opening itself, or correct the distortion on the sash itself. To slightly raise part of the structure without touching the frame, you need to cut the horizontal beam near the place of deformation, cut off 5-7 millimeters with a grinder, lift part of the sash, press the vertical beam and weld it. This method is used for small gaps. For reinforcement, a metal strip is attached to the welding site, since the risk of residual deformation remains.

If other methods do not help, you will need to increase the height of the gate opening itself. In practice, such work is associated with certain difficulties. It is necessary to install temporary supports and clarify whether reinforcement passes inside the masonry. If you do not take into account all the nuances, there is a possibility of wall destruction or roof collapse.

Raising the level of the gateway is quite complicated. Additional equipment and bricklaying skills required

Correct strengthening and protection

For installation, durable metal pins up to 20 centimeters long are used. Once installed, they are cut and sanded to ensure smooth opening and closing of the sashes. The gate is hung on the frame.

Additional reinforcement of your garage door makes sense if you are the owner of a permanent concrete building. To strengthen the walls next to the structure, you can use metal carcass, welded from corners and scalded with mesh. It can be installed both at the construction stage of the building and subsequently, with inside premises.

Strong metal rods welded to the hinges make it much more difficult for an intruder to saw through. Additionally with reverse side nuts and bolts can be welded on the blades.

Placement of stiffeners using the example of swing gates with a separate door

To press the sashes more tightly against each other, you can use an eccentric latch. A wide strip of metal is welded onto one of the canvases, thanks to which an attacker will not be able to use a crowbar or similar tool.

To strengthen the sashes themselves, horizontal and vertical stiffeners are welded to the frame. These are transverse metal racks, located at some distance from the edges of the canvas. Their number depends on what degree of rigidity is needed. The length of the crossbar is determined based on the dimensions of the canvas as the distance between the opposite posts of the frame.

If one of the doors has a door, vertical stiffening ribs are welded on both sides of it, otherwise deformation of the leaf is possible. If there is no door, horizontal or vertical crossbars are welded to the frame anywhere, most often in the center of the structure.

Replacement

Garage door replacement may be necessary for a variety of reasons. The old structure may have become rusty or warped. Or have you purchased a new gate? best quality or registration.

The first stage is dismantling old design. Before this, it is necessary to clarify whether there are additional “inserts” from thieves, such as welded to the frame above door hinges bolts, pieces of reinforcement or other similar elements. If they exist, they need to be dismantled.

The easiest way to dismantle metal swing gates. It is enough to open both doors and remove the panels from their hinges. After this, if necessary, remove the hinges themselves (with a sledgehammer, grinder, etc.) and you can install a new gate.

If the hinges become deformed or corroded, it is better to replace them.

To install the canvases into an existing frame, you only need to carry out necessary measurements, weld the hinges and hang the new gate on them.

If the gate is replaced along with the frame, old frame needs to be dismantled. It is better to entrust this work professional builders, as damage to the masonry is possible. After dismantling, a new supporting frame is installed, leveled and attached to the opening with long self-tapping screws. For conventional design 4–6 pieces per side are enough; when installing a reinforced frame, the number of dowels reaches 10.

If garage doors are installed without a frame, on poles, their replacement occurs in several stages:

Opening the doors all the way.
Removing the canvases from the hinges.
Removing hinges (if necessary).
Cleaning surfaces from rust, eliminating possible damage. Treatment with anti-corrosion compounds.
Welding new hinges.
Hanging and adjusting sashes.

Adjustment in case of misalignment

Skewed gates are a problem in older garages. At some point, the doors stop closing and cling to each other and to the ground. Among the main reasons for such malfunctions are the following:

Poor quality welding when installing the gate.
Subsidence of the soil, the presence of trees nearby, whose roots can swell the foundation.
Material corrosion.

As a result of the problems described above, the gate leaves sag and become deformed. The load on the hinges and the opening mechanism increases, as a result of which the gate stops opening.

To fix the problem and prevent similar situations from occurring in the future, you must perform the following operations:

Additional stiffening ribs are installed around the perimeter. These are transverse metal crossbars that strengthen the structure. Their installation proceeds as follows:

Blanks are cut from a profile pipe, fittings or other suitable building material. The size of each corresponds to the distance between the opposite frame posts. Stiffening ribs can be horizontal or vertical; therefore, before making them, you need to measure the distance between the horizontal or vertical crossbars of the frame.
The workpiece is placed on the canvas and adjusted according to the level and construction angle. Its ends should be adjacent to the frame posts or a few millimeters behind them.
The stiffening ribs are welded to the frame using a welding machine. They can be attached to the canvas using standard metal screws.

During long-term and active use of garage doors, it is necessary to monitor the position of the hinges, adjust them if necessary, and replace them in case of significant wear.

Garage doors must open, close and allow vehicles to pass through without hindrance.

At self-mounting loops to swing gates and subsequent adjustment, it is necessary to take into account several nuances:

The weld seam that is formed when welding the loop must be directed exclusively upward.
Welding occurs with small tacks, twice on each side alternately.
All elements are welded flush to the rectangular garage door post.
Before work, it is recommended to make a small backing for the bottom of the loop. Its length is equal to half the fastening element. The top of the substrate is grabbed from the end.
Before welding the gate hinges from the inside, you need to check how easily the doors open and close. If the gate does not operate correctly, it is additionally processed by welding from the outside.
Before the gate is finally secured, the doors are closed. To avoid sagging, a small stand is placed under the middle of each sash.

The gates open only some time after the end of work. This is necessary for the loops to cool down. When heated, the metal is very fragile and subject to deformation. If you overload the structure too early, all the work will have to start again.

If your overhead gate is jammed, the reason is in the opening system. In the simplest case, it is enough to lubricate the roller mechanism with oil to ensure the best sliding of the door along the guides. Damage is also possible individual parts, for example, a shaft or a spring. Faulty elements are replaced with new ones that are identical in functionality.

Video: Insulating garage doors

Although self-insulation and garage door repairs do not require specific skills, remember: the health of your iron friend depends on how carefully the work is done. If you have any doubts about performing a particular operation, it is better to consult a specialist.

Today, there are many manufacturing options entrance gate to the surrounding area of a home or business. One of the simplest, most reliable and economical ways to make gates is to use profiled metal sheets.

Gates made of corrugated sheets have high strength characteristics and have an attractive appearance and long service life. At the same time, the technology for installing such gates is quite simple, which allows you to make them yourself.

Structurally, gates made of corrugated sheets are a frame made of a metal profile with a fixed profiled sheet. The frame is installed on the posts using hinges - and the gate is ready. The poles can be either metal or wood. For wood best option diameter - 200 mm; for metal, the thickness of the column may be less.

The pillars are deepened by about a third relative to their total length. In this case, the height of the overhead part should be 500 mm greater than the height of the gate leaf to provide some clearance from below and above. The hole must be made of gravel or sand cushion, and it is advisable to fill the pillar itself with concrete - this will increase the reliability of the entire gate structure.

For installation on a frame, it is recommended to choose a profiled sheet marked “C” as a sheet. It denotes relatively light wall sheets made of galvanized steel with a small height of the ribs. Thanks to its lightness, working with such a sheet is quite simple. Also, the low weight reduces wear on the hinges, extending the overall service life of the gate.

One of the main problems with gates made of corrugated sheets (as well as fences made of this material) is high wind loads. Because of them, a sheet of corrugated sheeting can simply be torn off from the frame, not to mention the fact that the gate can open spontaneously, etc.

Various techniques can be used to strengthen gates made of corrugated sheets.

Firstly, this quality installation pillars, that is, the use of a pillow and concrete pouring. If the pillars are installed securely, then the gate will not go anywhere.
Secondly, the gate frame can be reinforced with stiffening ribs made of a metal profile. The simplest option is to install diagonal beams crosswise (in the shape of the letter “X”). In this case, the profile is welded in places corner connection frame beams. The stiffening ribs not only prevent the sheet from bending under the influence of the wind, but also serve as additional attachment points.
Thirdly, fastening. The step at which the corrugated sheet is attached to the frame or stiffeners should not exceed 150 mm. It is best to use rivets rather than screws as fasteners. The latter can be torn out both by the wind and by intruders. With rivets it is more difficult to perform such an operation.
Fourthly, pay attention to the quality of welding of the gate frame. The overall strength of the gate will depend on the quality of the frame assembly.
Fifthly, special holes in the sheet will help reduce wind loads. This method applicable only if you are not afraid of the possibility of prying eyes on the site, and do not mind the sheet itself.

For any motorist, a garage is not just an additional room near the house, but a building element that serves to store an iron horse, and is also used as a storage room or workshop. Therefore, here, too, climatic conditions must be provided that will be comfortable for the car. And this may require garage door repair or insulation, since this part is vulnerable. There are simple troubleshooting methods. Knowing them, you can do all the work yourself.

Insulation of garage doors

For proper insulation gate must follow certain rules:

pay attention not only to insulating the door leaf, but also to sealing joints and cracks using a material characterized by a high expansion coefficient;
carefully select insulation whose thermal conductivity is higher than that of the garage walls;
compliance with safety regulations;
thickness thermal insulation material must be the same over the entire area of the gate;
carry out the process at positive temperatures.

Is it necessary to insulate and why?

As a rule, they are made of metal. Because of this, problems arise. IN winter time year they are prone to frostbite. This happens due to the fact that uneven frosting occurs around the perimeter of the garage, since only the gates are metal. After all, it is metal, not brick, that is the most heat-conducting element. Because of this, the gate condenses moisture from inside the garage, and when negative temperature air, this condensate turns into ice.

Condensation appears at any time of the year due to daily temperature fluctuations. And this threatens to create some problems:

Corrosion due to prolonged exposure to moisture. Uninsulated gates rust much faster, and this happens even if stainless steel was used for their manufacture.
Condensation settles on all metal objects located in the garage, including the car, which usually drives into a cold garage warm due to constant work. The garage is designed to preserve it, but in the absence of insulated gates, on the contrary, it contributes to its deterioration. In an unprepared garage, a car rots faster, and this, unfortunately, is not a myth.
The ice prevents the gate from being opened. Trying to do this quickly may cause damage.

There are many reasons to insulate your garage door as quickly as possible. But it needs to be done correctly.

Material selection

The first issue that needs to be resolved is the choice of thermal insulation material. Each of them has its own specifications, which can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. The table will help you familiarize yourself with them.

Table: insulation materials

Knowing these characteristics, you can form a holistic picture of each material, based on which you can make a choice:

Expanded polystyrene is not as resistant to fire, but the advantages are low thermal conductivity and high resistance to moisture.
Polyurethane foam allows you to perform insulation without seams, and it can be applied to an unprepared surface. This material is absolutely resistant to temperature changes and chemical agents, thereby ensuring the strength and durability of insulated gates. But for this pleasure you will have to pay a considerable amount.
Mineral wool does not burn. Since there is a high risk of sparks in a garage, it is worth considering using this material. However, when installing it, you need to take care of additional hydro- and vapor barrier.
Foam plastic almost does not conduct heat and has high moisture resistance, which is very important when insulating gates. And also, thanks to its low density, there will be no additional load on the gate. Polystyrene foam is absolutely safe for humans and environment. In addition, it is a fairly affordable material and easy to process. Therefore, foam plastic is considered almost ideal for insulating metal garage doors.

There are other materials that are suitable for this purpose, for example liquid foam - penoizol.

Calculation of the amount of material

For high-quality insulation of gates, you need to carefully calculate the consumption of all necessary materials. In addition to the selected insulation, you will also need facing material, which will be used to decorate the gate at the end of the work. It could be:

lining;
corrugated sheeting;
Fiberboard or MDF;
plywood (it is recommended to choose moisture-resistant);
OSB boards ( perfect option, because it is high-strength, vapor-tight, easy to process, and cheap).

To calculate the amount of facing material you need to know the dimensions of the gate. As a rule, when using OSB boards for insulation, two pieces are enough, since standard sizes they are 125*250 cm.

For cladding you will need to install sheathing. It must be placed on the gate leaf. To do this, it is better to take wooden blocks of at least 4 * 2.5 cm. They need to be mounted around the perimeter of the canvas, and they can be attached to metal corners. When calculating it general design The dimensions of the load-bearing elements of the gate, foam plastic boards (or other insulation) must be taken into account, and the fastening step of the facing material must be at least 40 cm. The bars must first be treated with an antiseptic to prevent them from rotting.

To install the sheathing, you will also need galvanized self-tapping screws:

for fastening to the side surface - 3.5*30 mm;
for end mounting - 4.5*70 mm.

The length of the screw depends on whether the sheathing will be attached to metal corners or a pipe. In the second case, the length should be increased. To calculate their quantity, you need to make a drawing of the gate insulation on paper.

It is better to fasten OSB boards with screws with a press washer 32 mm long. The quantity is calculated in the same way.

For high-quality insulation of metal gates, you must not forget about anti-corrosion protection. A special primer is suitable for this. It must be applied to a degreased surface.

You can’t do without polyurethane foam, which is needed for attaching insulation boards to the gates and sealing cracks.

Tools

To ensure high-quality insulation of metal garage doors, you need a number of tools that almost every good owner has:

Electric drill.
Drill. It is necessary to take care in advance of the availability of drills for working with wood and metal (if the sheathing is wooden).
Screwdrivers of various sections. Can be replaced with a screwdriver.
Wood saw. If so, then a jigsaw. It will speed up the work.
A metal brush with metal bristles or an appropriate drill attachment.

In addition to these tools, you may need others, for example:

brush or roller for applying antiseptic;
hammer;
core (used for marking drill holes);
tape measure or meter ruler;
square;
construction knife;
sandpaper;
clamps (needed to secure elements).

Step-by-step instruction

Once the material has been selected and calculated, the tool has been prepared, you can begin directly insulating the garage door. All work takes place in several stages (in the case of foam insulation):

Preparatory work. This stage should never be skipped, since it largely depends on the quality of the thermal insulation. If there is rust on the canvas, you need to get rid of it using a special attachment on a drill. It is recommended to walk over the entire surface of the gate sandpaper, and then with a degreaser. Next, an anti-corrosion primer is applied in two layers (the second layer can be applied only after the first has dried thoroughly). Now is the time to install the waterproofing layer. Suitable for this bitumen mastic, vapor barrier membrane, isolon.
Installation of sheathing. Install the sheathing on the inner surface of the gate. It can be metal or wood. It must be fastened to the base of the metal sheet with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws. Make fastenings according to the drawing, and for this you need to make markings, and then drill holes without overheating the drill. The bars must all be solid, it is recommended to tighten them with clamps, and then drill them with a thin drill.

If there is a problem with attaching the lower horizontal beam to the frame or gate, then it can only be attached at the end. If it is possible to remove the gate, then this must be done in order to reach the frame with the tool.

If desired, the slabs can be painted in your favorite color, however, even without this, the main goal of insulation will be achieved.

Do-it-yourself garage repair: how and why to do it

Timely implementation repair work- a necessity, since the gate can penetrate cold air, which adversely affects technical condition car. Fortunately, you can carry out routine repairs yourself.

How to raise the gate

There may be several reasons why this type of repair is required. Most often, it is necessary to raise the gate when it is impossible to open it not only in winter due to icing, but also in summer. The most in a simple way The solution to this problem is to trim the gate and then concrete the driveway. However, it is better to carry out a full repair so as not to reduce the dimensions of the structure.

Gate lifting steps:

Dismantle them and release the frame. Before removing the gate from its hinges, it is recommended to wash the mortar between the bricks.
Remove several rows of bricks from the top of the garage opening. Instead of bricks, lay a channel or a high-strength corner that is fixed anchor bolts. This will save the gate structure from further destruction.
In the lower area, raise the fill slightly. You can seal the gap between the gate and the floor in another way, for example, by concreting. You can also make a small threshold. Regardless of the method of eliminating the gap, you need to ensure that the slope is directed towards the street, otherwise excess moisture in the garage cannot be avoided, especially during heavy rain.

How to strengthen the frame on the wall

One of the problems that can affect the ease of use of the garage is the door frame coming away from the wall. Conduct this type You can do the repairs yourself. This is done as follows:

Remove the old gate.
Weld a metal belt to the gate from the inside.
Replace old hinges with new ones.
It is recommended to install metal corners and reinforcement where the frame is attached to the wall.
Install the gate, observing all the rules.

It is necessary to carefully strengthen the gate frame to the wall, since this is one of the vulnerable points of the garage.

How to replace a gate

In some cases, a complete replacement of the gate is necessary. This can happen for many reasons, such as when the structure has become unusable due to rust and rot. The gate replacement process only takes a few hours. During this time, the following work is performed (after dismantling the old gate):

Frame installation. It will give the gate the necessary rigidity and allow the doors to move easily. First, the outer and inner parts of the frame are installed to the opening. For this purpose, metal pins with a length of 150 to 180 mm are used (it is recommended to process their ends welding machine, sand and paint).
Conduct additional fastening gates with iron lintels. The distance between them should be from 2 to 4 cm.
Fixing the sashes on hinges.

How to correct misalignment and adjust correctly

Problems arise when the geometry of the gate is violated. You can solve it depending on the cause of the problem:

Video on the topic

Repairing and insulating garage doors is a painstaking task; not every owner wants to do everything themselves. However, if it is not possible to invite an experienced specialist, then these tips will help you do everything quickly and efficiently.