What can be made from frames. We update old wooden windows with our own hands

For several years now, I have been doing a little bit of insulation of my garden house. And the thing is that when we were building it, the plans included staying at the dacha only in the warm season. But the more the garden surrounding the house became like a real garden, the more I wanted to stay in nature longer, until frost, or even stay a little in winter.

But my house is too light, a real summer cottage. We put a prefabricated panel board wooden garden house on a high base made of rubble. They put it in half a brick, not even a brick. It took about 10 years and we insulated a little of the wall. A vapor barrier and Isover mineral wool were laid between the clapboard of the house's boards and the brick. It became much warmer, despite the fact that the brickwork itself turned out to be of such poor quality that when we removed the lining of the inner cladding, the cement seams suddenly penetrated bright sunlight. It was both funny and sad - the builders slipped such a hack to us!

Here you go. We insulated the walls, but there were still quite large gaps between the window frames and the walls. Therefore, the husband removed the platbands from the side of the street and blew out the cracks with foam. But the most interesting thing was further.

Window frames were included with the house and provided for glazing in one glass. And so it was done. But such windows suffer too much heat loss. No matter how heal the cracks, the single glasses themselves do not keep warm well. It was possible to put a second frame. But, after some thought, another solution came up.

I decided to make double-glazed windows in old wooden frames. There were two options for the execution of the idea. The first one is to add another glass to the existing one, laying thin wooden strips-slats between them around the perimeter and then fix the second glass, but most likely not with glazing beads, since the groove of the window frame will not be enough, but in the lining with a slat.
If you do everything with the use of silicone, you get a fairly sealed glass unit.

The second option was to order double-glazed windows from the glass factory with the smallest possible gap between the glass, so that the package would fit into the existing groove in the frame.
The information on the plant's website was encouraging. My preliminary calculations based on the data of the plant's prices turned out to be not so terrible. If we compare the price of one of the cheapest metal-plastic windows and a window glazed with double-glazed windows in the existing frames, it turns out that plastic is at least 5 times more expensive!

On that and decided. I removed the dimensions from the old window frames (fortunately, they are well preserved here, being protected by shutters) and sent them to the factory. They miscalculated everything for me (my calculations turned out to be correct), accepted the order, and in a week all the double-glazed windows were ready.

This is what a double-glazed window looks like for a window

Two glasses with a metal gasket, 6 mm wide, hermetically connected-glued along the perimeter with rubber. 6 millimeters is the minimum glass gap. Each glass is 4 mm thick. In total, two glasses of 4 mm each plus a gap of 6 mm, we have a glass unit thickness of 16 mm. This is exactly what the glass groove on my frames turned out to be.

For work, I needed the following tools and materials: a screwdriver, a hammer, self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, a tube of transparent silicone and a gun for it. It took quite a lot of silicone, about one tube per window.

They simply held on to the nails, so it was very easy to do this with a simple flat-head screwdriver.

After freeing the window frame from the glazing beads, the glass was very easy to remove. This is what the frame looked like without glass

Then, having slightly cleared the freed groove, I laid a "sausage" of silicone into it.

I put a double-glazed window on this "sausage". I must say that the silicone fits very well and holds the bag in the frame, even without additional fastening.

Then the pre-prepared slats were used. They were supposed to replace the traditional glazing beads in such cases, fixing the glass in the frame. Previously, I sanded them (fortunately, there is a simple grinder, it makes work very easy), then I impregnated them with glaze for wood and sawed them to the desired size. A machine also helped me to cut - my son gave me an electric hawk for my birthday :) Without it, I would have had to mess around much longer, and I would have to put in more strength.

These are the glazing beads that came out:

The next step was to apply silicone directly to the perimeter of the glass unit.

And on top I fixed the prepared strips "in the overlay"

We got such windows

My windows are inserted the other way around so that they open inward, since we have shutters outside. Therefore, my glazing beads are on the outside of the frames and look like this

The effect of the work done was not slow to affect. The house has become very quiet, sounds from the street are almost inaudible. And before, I could not put my grandson to bed, so I could hear everything.
A few days later, a cyclone came, it got very cold and a very strong wind rose. Previously, in such cases, the curtains on the windows were shaking. And now - a complete calm :)) I am very pleased with the work done. And saved money :)))

The entry is posted in sections:

Do-it-yourself gazebo from window frames. Step-by-step instructions with a photo

Master class "Do-it-yourself gazebo from old window frames"

Master class on the construction of a gazebo. Feng Shui gazebo

Author: Natalya Aleksandrovna Ermakova, Teacher, Municipal budgetary educational institution of additional education for children "Children's Art School named after A. A. Bolshakov," the city of Velikiye Luki, Pskov region.
Description: the material can be useful to everyone who is fond of creativity, gardening and landscape design, to all those who love their garden and are engaged in its improvement.
Purpose: the gazebo will serve as a great place for the whole family to relax, create its own unique design and great mood.
Target: creating a gazebo from old window frames.
Tasks: build a gazebo from scrap materials, create a place for the whole family to rest from the wind and bad weather out of old frames.

Hello dear guests! Veneration of nature and the perception of it as a part of man himself was previously manifested in pagan religions. But in the Slavic countries, pre-Christian religions have long faded away. But the Chinese still believe that any tree, blade of grass and a stream can influence the fate of a person, giving him positive energy or, conversely, taking away part of his vitality. The harmony between people and nature is called geomancy, and Tibetan monks live according to its laws. In the west, only one branch of geomancy is known - feng shui. This direction is engaged in the arrangement of a person's personal space - his house, plot and even wardrobe. It is believed that a Feng Shui garden helps a person live in happiness, attracts the necessary energies (love, fame, and others). And the more carefully you equip every corner of space, the faster you will achieve your goals.

Today we will talk about such an important element that must be in your yard or in your country house, or to be more precise, this work will be devoted to an ordinary, but such a necessary gazebo.
A beautiful gazebo at a summer cottage can become its main decoration and main highlight. Since ancient times, people have erected small cozy houses in the gardens, which allowed them to admire the beauty of nature. When properly positioned on a garden plot, a gazebo can attract positive energy.

Gazebos can perform various functions. It can be a small cozy building in the depths of the garden, which is conducive to contemplation and comprehension alone with oneself. And there are others who are able to gather the whole family under their roof on a weekend. There you can easily drink aromatic tea and have fun communicating with loved ones.
Depending on which sector the gazebo will be in, its shape is chosen:
-North-round and octagonal pavilions;
-Northeast-square, rectangular, round;
-Vostok - square, rectangular;
-Southeast-square, rectangular, octagonal gazebos;
-Yug- octagonal, square;
-Southwest-square, rectangular;
-West-square and round;
-North-west-square and round gazebos;
-In the center of the plot - octagonal.
Each direction of light is responsible for a specific aspect of life: wealth, longevity, love, creativity, career, family and children.

The dimensions, shape and methods of decorative design of the gazebo depend solely on the imagination and wishes of the owner of the site. The optimal place for placing the gazebo is a space closed from the noise and dust of the street, from which a view of any decorative element or a composition pleasing to the eye opens. If there is a reservoir of artificial or natural origin on the site, then it is better to place this structure on its shore.
It is desirable that the gazebo be protected from the wind by a hedge of shrubs or a group of trees. It will also be useful to place flower beds, alpine slides, suitable garden sculptures and everything that will make this corner of the garden attractive to all family members. At the same time, do not forget that all the details must be combined with each other and create a complete picture.

When arranging a gazebo, its lighting should be taken into account. It should be selected in accordance with its purpose and future functions. If it is planned to gather in the gazebo in the evenings for any activities - board games, handicrafts or reading - then the lighting should be bright enough, but not dazzling. If you want to give this corner of the garden a romantic look, you should illuminate the path to the gazebo and place sconces with dim lights on its walls.

According to an ancient Chinese proverb, a person has three main things: fate, chance, and feng shui. Destiny gives us the chance to learn Feng Shui to improve our health and our lives. Everyone has their own destiny. We cannot change our origin, gender, nationality or date of birth. But every person has a chance to get acquainted with feng shui in order to change and improve not only health, but also his whole life. Feng Shui is a unique folk wisdom that has collected centuries-old observations of nature, its changes and signs.

1. Don't sit on the corner.
"Seven years without reciprocity", you say? If only that! According to Feng Shui, a protruding corner aimed at a person, be it the corner of a table, cabinet or any other, sends "poisoned arrows" to the poor fellow, which will leave him not only without reciprocity, but also without money, health and good luck.
2. Do not say goodbye through the threshold.
"You will quarrel," they say. That's right: the threshold is an energetic barrier that separates the two worlds. On one side - "our", on the other - "stranger". An invisible border prevents the establishment of contact, and things and energy transferred "from world to world" are lost for both worlds. So it turns out that the connection between the "participants in the contact" is destroyed.
3. Don't cook in a bad mood.
This is how the novice housewives of mothers and grandmothers teach. The older generation is absolutely right: food absorbs the surrounding energy, and we, by absorbing this very food, receive a corresponding energy charge along with calories and vitamins. Borscht and cutlets "charged" with a quarrel, news of another terrorist attack or emotions generated by a television "horror movie" are quite capable of poisoning a family.
4. Do not stand behind your back.
- we say, shivering chilly, even if someone is quite dear and close behind our back. And it's not an ancient instinct that makes you fear a sneaking enemy, but the fact that the threat is posed by the unprotected rear itself. Feng Shui considers the lack of support and support from behind to be the weakest energy position. Moreover, this is equally important for a person and for a home. You should always have a wall or at least a screen behind you, and the rear of your house must be protected by a high hill or, at least, by a neighbor's house.
5. Don't drive yourself into a corner.
Another extremely unfavorable position, according to Feng Shui. The corner is considered a place that can draw energy out of a person - a kind of domestic vampire. It is not for nothing that a child who has long been naughty is put in a corner with his nose so that he loses the excess of hooligan energy (the main thing is not to overexpose his beloved child there ...).
6. Don't look into a cracked mirror.
According to feng shui, not only cracked mirrors are harmful, but also patterned mirrors, mirror tiles, and other surfaces that break, crush reflections. All this crushes, destroys energy, which will affect, first of all, health.
7. A mirror in your pocket will protect you from the enemy.
We still believe that when meeting with an ill-wisher, a mirror put in a pocket helps - of course, with the reflective side outward. It will reflect all his evil thoughts and intentions. And also - all the negative energy directed against you is commented on by Feng Shui. And he advises to hang a mirror over a door or window to protect the house from adverse influences.
8. Don't show it on yourself.
we warn the person talking about someone's ailments. According to feng shui, the mechanism of the evil eye in this case is as follows: by pointing with a finger, we send an energy charge. At the same time, when naming a disease, we give this charge an appropriate "color": we fill it with accurate information about the diagnosis.
9. Don't come back half way.
- "there will be no way." Still, says Feng Shui! Remember what we told you about the threshold? All these jumps "from world to world" are quite energy-intensive - this is probably known to inveterate travelers who often cross the borders of states. If you already had to return, recuperate: sit down (take some energy from the house), look in the mirror (reflected, the energy doubles).
10. Run under the rainbow, you will be happy.
Of course, those who remember physics understand that it is impossible in principle to do this. But even seeing a rainbow - a symbol of the Heavenly Gate - is considered a good sign. And Feng Shui recommends to "tame" the rainbow and put it in your own home. That is why arched openings are so favorable - passing under them, each time we "step under the rainbow" and receive the protection of Heaven.

Materials and tools:
-old window frames
- wooden beam 50:50 (6 meters 13 pieces)
-roulette
-hammer, nails 3, 2 * 50, 3.5 * 80
- screwdriver, wood screws 3.8 * 32
- impact drill (drill for metal)
- water-based stain (lemon), water-based emulsion, brush
- red enamel (terracotta) 6 kg, white spirit (solvent), brush
- cement, building sand, river sand
-a bucket for cement mortar, 2 buckets of mayonnaise, trowel
-shovel
-saw
-perforated fasteners and corners
-ladder
-stapler, fabric paintings (painting on fabric)
The cement slurry is made in a ratio of 1: 4. That is, for 1 bucket (from under mayonnaise) of cement, 4 buckets of sand are needed. The sand should be sifted, or simply by hand, which is exactly what I did, remove large stones, sift the sand through your fingers. The construction bucket takes 2 buckets of cement, 8 buckets of sand and 2.5 buckets of water. When all the ingredients are poured into the container, they must be mixed using a perforator with a concrete mixer screwed into it, literally 7-10 minutes, until smooth.

Master class progress:

We start with the preparation of materials. The bar must be cut in half, three meters each, one bar is left uncut. Then the beams must be covered with wood stain to preserve the wood and their longer life.

The timber has dried up and we are starting the construction of the walls of the gazebo. We connect two large frames together with a bar. We nail the bar to the frame from the bottom and top with large nails (80 *). My site is very small, so I immediately place the finished wall at the intended location.

I am not a builder, but I really like to make something necessary out of unnecessary things. Therefore, I do not have a specific construction scheme, everything is in the process of work. As the saying goes, appetite comes with eating! I paint the frames from the inside with the remnants of water-based paint diluted with yellow gouache. In order for the background to have an even character, the color is applied by a kind of slapping of the brush on the glass.
In the art of feng shui, yellow indicates gaiety, cheerfulness, brilliance. It symbolizes a hot and shining sun, a warm sunny day, gold, longevity. Light yellow is best for creating an atmosphere of friendship and creativity. Yellow and gold are the colors of the earth. They can give a sense of stable existence, hope and happiness.

Next, I determine the place where the corner of the gazebo will be, and from it we will start construction. I'll run a little ahead, I will fix each pillar with fragments of brick and subsequently fill it with cement.

We moisten the earth with water and fill in cement, the pillar must be left stationary for about a day.

Then you need to assemble the second wall of the gazebo, it is assembled in the same way as the first, we knock down the frames with a bar.

This side will consist of three frames, smaller in size but the same height.

Then two ready-made walls need to be installed at the first pillar in the shape of the letter "L". And fasten them to the base of the post with the help of large nails hammered from the edge of the frames. First, we nail one frame to the post, then the second, do not forget to follow the level of the walls so that their edges are at the same height (1).
Near the end of the second unpainted wall, dig a hole for the second pillar, place the pillar there against the frame and hammer it together with large nails (2). For greater strength of the connection, we use perforated fasteners for the timber. We attach them using wood screws and a Phillips screwdriver.
The part of the gazebo where the painted yellow frames are located will be lower, the opposite side is higher. This is necessary for the roof so that there is a good slope of water. For the lower part, we need three beams, you need to measure out the length that suits you right away, and saw off the excess timber with a saw.

Now we move to the other side of the gazebo. We also drip a hole, install a bar, fasten it to the frame with nails.
Next, we will continue the wall with a frame from the interior door. At the required distance, we drip a hole for the fourth pillar.

First, we knock down the edge beam with the door with nails, then we install it in place.

We fasten the frames to each other using perforated fasteners (an iron plate with holes), wood screws and screwdrivers, in several places on the inside and outside of the gazebo.

With the help of a bar we measure out the third side of our building. The line can be marked with a shovel, draw a guide line on the ground.

Here's a frame turned out. The top bar is secured with nails and fasteners.
The gazebo has an L-shape, a sofa is located near the sides protected from the wind, and in the middle there is a large family hearth. Since our family loves fire, and a big fire is an integral part of our family evening, two walls must be left open.
The fireplace was laid out with stones and cement a year ago, but has not yet been fully completed.

Now I want to give the gazebo a look, we will paint.

I chose the color terracotta - according to Feng Shui it is the color of the earth, confidence and stability, it is considered very pleasant for human perception.
Terracotta color is suitable for people who cannot imagine their life without vivid emotions and impressions, reckless and passionate, adoring adventure. Let's break it down into tonal components! The red hue is considered aggressive and ardent, but becoming clayey, it calms down a little. If the scarlet color can be compared with the beauty of a young girl, then terracotta is a mature femininity. From orange, he got energy, shameless joy, the ability to cheer up with just his look. And from brown - a certain balance, dimension, depth. With all this, terracotta is a natural color associated with nature, rocky mountains, sunsets. For those who cannot afford frequent rest, this shade can become a kind of pill for a routine lifestyle. There are so many emotions hidden in it that you can comprehend this color for a long time. But do not forget one simple thing - to love a certain color and feel comfortable in its environment, these are completely different things. The terracotta color in details is suitable for a romantic and sublime interior, terracotta color practically does not combine with cool tones.
It is believed that this color is pleasing to the eye and able to enhance the feeling of security and safety and is ideally combined with white and its shades (roof-white metal). Feng Shui recommends using terracotta color in paintings placed at the entrance to the premises if you are afraid of theft at home or at work.

Since there was no construction plan, no material for the roof was purchased yet. Now we need to measure the size of the gazebo, I got the size of the gazebo 3 by 4 meters. We calculate this footage for the size of the sheets of corrugated board (1.5 by 1.2) - in total, we need 6 sheets.

While we are waiting for the delivery of corrugated board, we continue to build the walls of the gazebo. Let's make the area near the sofa more closed from the wind. We will work on the same principle as with other walls. First, we fill the bar on the bottom and top of the frame, then we connect the frame with the corner bar.

We dig a hole under the timber on the other side of the frame, fasten the parts with nails.

Next to the door frame, we will also make a small extension of the wall according to the same principle. Then we will completely paint the gazebo and the pillars for the roof frame.

In some places there are no glasses in the frames, I will mask these voids with the help of fabric paintings (painting on fabric) and a stapler.

Here's a picture gallery turned out. Moreover, all the pictures are placed in accordance with the recommendations of Feng Shui.
Rules for placing paintings in Feng Shui.

With the remaining canvases, create a tablecloth for the table in the gazebo area.

It's roof time. We lay out a sheet of corrugated board and beams on the ground, we need to distribute them evenly over the entire area of ​​the sheet.

Then you need to fasten the timber to the sheets of corrugated board. This can be done using self-tapping screws, this method is more expensive (self-tapping screws are sold per piece). A hole is first drilled with a drill (drill for metal), then a self-tapping screw is screwed in.

Many owners of houses and apartments strive to make their homes as environmentally friendly as possible. For the same reason, they do not seek to replace wooden windows with plastic ones, but prefer to restore them, i.e. renovate old wooden windows.

The advantages of wooden windows:

• naturalness of wood;

• wood is hygroscopic, i.e. does not interfere with air exchange in the house;

• low thermal conductivity allows you to save heat;

• long service life of wood with proper care;

• aesthetic appearance. Wooden windows can fit into various interiors.

All this speaks in favor of the restoration of wooden windows.

When do windows need renovation or repair?

First, when it starts to blow from the window opening;

Secondly, when the appearance of the window is lost due to deformation of the frames, the appearance of fungus, damage to the wood or one of the nodes (window fittings).

How to repair a wooden window with your own hands?

Let's start with the fact that we will understand the definition: window repair or restoration are similar works that do not have a fundamental difference, they consist in cleaning, filling, painting, sealing, etc. Painting of windows does not apply to repair work, more to restoration work, since it does not affect the functional qualities of a wooden window. Only the appearance changes.

Depending on the degree of deterioration of windows (frames, glass and fittings), the approach to carrying out restoration work will differ.

The technology for repairing wooden windows is quite simple, but it requires scrupulous execution of each stage of work.

Redecoration of wooden windows

Elimination of local damage. For example, fungus damage to a part of a window frame.

• identification of the site of damage. To do this, you can conduct a small test: you need to push through the shabby or suspicious parts of the frame with an awl, if the tip easily falls through, then the wood is damaged;

• cutting off an unusable layer;

• the cleaned area is dried. To do this, you can use a building hair dryer or a heater (be careful with glass, direct the air flow directly to the wood);

• application of wood hardener and preservative;

• applying putty. Layer thickness - according to the instructions. If you need to apply several layers, you need to wait until the first one dries well;

• painting the window.

More details - in the photo.

Overhaul of a wooden window - complete restoration

Tool and materials:

1. hair dryer to remove paint. Referring to the reviews of the masters, we note that many are trying to remove the paint without it, but this only damages the wood more;
2. grinder and sandpaper. For leveling the surface;
3. shoe knife for removing old paint
4. putty knife. Reconstruction of wooden windows presupposes the obligatory filling of the surface of the frame and sashes;
5. paint and varnish brushes;
6. chisels;
7. fittings, glass (if replacement is expected);
8. drying oil, varnish and / or paint;
9. putty;
10. primer;
11. sealant.

The cost of repairing wooden windows depends on the price of consumables, tools and, of course, on the condition of the frames. On the other hand, do-it-yourself window restoration does not require any special skills. However, it should be noted that this work cannot be done in one day.

A few words about preparation. It is best to do the work on a warm, sunny day. The main condition is dryness, because high humidity will have a detrimental effect on the result (wood changes geometry, dries poorly, etc.).

We remove the window sashes from the awnings. If the glass is put on a putty, we remove it with a chisel, if on glazing beads (a rail for glass), then carefully dismantle them. After that, we take out the glass.

We remove all the accessories (it is better to replace it with a new one). You also need to remove the wooden drips on the windows (the wooden planks located on the bottom of the frame outside the window are also called "dripstone"). They are attached to nails that have probably already rotted away. In general, all screws, nails, metal corners, etc. are removed from the frames.

We put the “bare” frame on a flat surface and measure it - all the diagonals must be of the same length, otherwise, the skew in some place will lead to the formation of cracks, which is unacceptable. We fasten the frame tightly to the surface (it can be a board made of boards).

Dowels for windows can be knocked out with a hammer (they are cone-shaped, therefore, you need to knock out from the thin side), provided that they are located evenly (symmetrically to the corner) and lend themselves. But, under pressure, the dilapidated frame can deform, therefore, it is better to drill out. If the dowel dangles, you can fix it before drilling - a couple of drops of superglue in the slot and after 5 minutes the drill will go like solid wood.

At the next stage, when the window is dismantled, we proceed to cleaning it from paint.

How to remove paint from wooden windows

There are several ways to remove paint from windows

Removing paint with a building hairdryer

You need to work carefully, ideally remove the glass first, or direct the flow of hot air so as to exclude direct contact with the glass. The high temperature may cause the glass to break (crack and spill out).

Set the temperature regime on the hair dryer to 250 degrees.

The task of removing the paint is not fast, but high quality. At higher temperatures, the wood will char and lose its properties as a result of the burn.

In the process of warming up, the paint will begin to rise in bubbles, which must be cleaned off with the correct tool.

It is better to do this with a boot knife (a palette knife is also suitable - a trowel knife for mixing paints on a palette in painting). The fact is that the spatula will slide over the paint, or cut into the wood, leaving burrs.

Removing paint by chemical means

You can remove old paint from the window frame with special solutions (removers, liquids). They also use the "tricky method" - kerosene and a plastic bag. It is kerosene, because solvents and solvent destroy the structure of the wood.

Execution technology

• The wooden frame must be wrapped with a cloth (rags) and the whole structure must be placed in a plastic bag.

• Moisten the cloth abundantly with kerosene, then tie the bag and leave for a day or two. During this time, the paint should soften and be easily removed (the above tool is used for cleaning).

Tip: remove the planks from the bag gradually, i.e. one pulled out - cleaned, etc., if you remove everything at the same time, the kerosene will evaporate (dry out), therefore, the paint layer will return to its original state (dry up, harden) and stop separating.

Of course, there may not be such a large package for a whole window frame, therefore, you will have to disassemble the frame into elements. Or, as an option for processing the assembled frame, you can moisten the fabric and wrap it tightly with plastic wrap, additionally tying the layers with rope in order to maximally seal the surface to be treated.

Advice: keep in mind that removing paint from windows in this way is accompanied by a pungent odor, plus, the technique is fire hazardous, therefore, it must be performed on the street or on the balcony.

The inner window sill and sill also needs to be cleaned.

After removing the paint, the frame will look something like the photo. This is clearly not a suitable type for finishing work.

Remains of paint are removed with sandpaper or a grinder.

Elimination of deformation of a wooden window

Sometimes old wooden windows are deformed, which can manifest itself in the form of distortions and curvatures of the frame. For example, one or more sashes of the window led. This will be especially noticeable when installing the stack, when it falls into the selected groove, and the glass weighs in the corners, or vice versa, the corners lie down, and there is a gap in the middle.

If the window is removed and disassembled, you can put it under a press, which is made from wooden panels and a weighting agent.

If on the installed window, it is possible to insert a stop (a bar, a bar of a suitable size) in the place of the bend (curvature), and applying an effort to close the window, fixing it with bolts or invent a fastening with self-tapping screws (for example, screw the bar diagonally to the frame). All these manipulations are performed without glass.

We leave in this state for 2-3 days, after which we increase the thickness of the spacer, and thus bring it to the desired position.

The method is controversial, but sometimes it helps. Cracks may appear that can be repaired. We take a regular syringe and use it to inject PVA glue into the crack. Because the glue is liquid, it will flow out, the place needs to be pecked with tape. After drying, repeat the procedure, and then clean everything, putty and paint.

Restoration of wooden windows - restoration of decayed parts of the frame

If a fragment of the frame has rotted, it can be replaced or restored. If replacement is not foreseen, then restoration remains. To do this, you need an epoxy putty for wood (the composition may include fiberglass, which will significantly increase the rigidity of the structure).

The damaged area is cleaned of paint and debris is removed. Then putty is applied.

Apply the mixed putty to the damaged area; the mixture should fill all cracks and cracks well. Recreate the missing section so that it is slightly larger than the desired plane, i.e. there should be a volume left for subsequent grinding. Drying (hardening) of the putty lasts a day (at room temperature). Then, using a grinder or emery paper fixed to a block, we grind the surfaces until they are completely leveled.

It should be understood that such a restoration allows you to restore the appearance, but does not guarantee sufficient density, especially in places of active use (places where the window sash is tightly adjacent). But if the window is deaf or rarely used, then it is a completely self-sufficient way to get out of the situation without completely replacing the window or frame elements.

• checking the frame for damage;

• marking with dots the damaged area;

• cutting out the zone;

• preparation of replacement;

• replacement. The prepared part of the frame is installed in the desired place, fixed with glue and clamped with clamps. After 24 hours, the clamps are removed;

• grinding of the junction of the old frame and replacement. This will avoid a drop in height;

• priming;

• staining. Material prepared for the site www.site

More details - in the photo.

After cleaning the frame of paint, you need to putty it.

Putty for windows is sold as a finished product, at the same time, you can prepare it yourself. To do this, mix 3 parts of sawdust in one part of liquid nails.

The technology is simple, but the solution dries quickly, therefore, we mix quickly and in small portions.

Mixed up - putty, etc.

The homemade putty is based on glue, and therefore, it quickly hardens.

Grind the dry and dense surface with a machine or fine-grain emery paper (sandpaper).

Oil impregnation

Wood processing with drying oil is a good "old-fashioned method", time-tested. But, it should be borne in mind that the modern drying oil differs from the drying oil of the times of the USSR. Now it is difficult to find natural drying oil, as a rule, they sell something derivative, such as "Oksol". The point is that the real one is made from natural ingredients (linseed, hemp oil), and not from synthetic derivatives. There are many good impregnations on the market that have replaced drying oil and its production from vegetable oils is simply unprofitable. Alternatively, for aesthetes, you can make your own drying oil.

Coating of window frames with linseed oil is carried out with a brush, the first layer as impregnation, the second or third final. It is necessary to maintain a time interval between the layers (preferably until it dries completely, and this process is not quick). If the surface does not stick, then you can continue to work.

Hot linseed oil impregnation

A method of processing with hot linseed oil is also used. Here it should be understood that drying oil is a combustible material and, in contact with an open fire, is highly flammable.

How to heat drying oil?

You can warm up the drying oil in a water bath, and the second method is more dangerous - heating to a boiling state. To do this, make a flask from an iron pipe, one end of which is welded. Linseed oil is poured into it and heated with an electric stove or a construction hairdryer to a boil (during the heating process, fire is possible, extinguished by throwing burlap). After that, the bars of the window frame are lowered into the hot drying oil for 5 minutes, and they are crocheted. high temperature and laid to dry. According to reviews, impregnation with hot drying oil creates a coating for centuries (the effect of wooden railway sleepers).

Again, this is very important(!), heating drying oil is a dangerous undertaking.

To proliferate windows or treat them with an antiseptic, everyone decides for himself, each of them has pros and cons.

Coating with stain and varnish

If the condition of the window frames after removing the paint is good and there is a desire to preserve the naturalness of the wood, then you can treat the surface with a stain.

Stain can be used to change the shade of the wood, for example, tinted pine can look like bog oak as a result.

Before treating the window frame with wood stain, it is better to check the consistency of the solution on a separate board (preferably the same type of wood and shade), i.e. choose the tone of the wood.

Staining wooden windows not only improves their aesthetic qualities, but also makes the wood more resistant to UV rays, and also prevents rotting and the development of fungus.

In addition, the stain penetrates deeply into the structure of the wood, therefore, if later you have to sandpaper it somewhere, it will not disturb the shade and texture of the frame.

The wood stain finish is finished with varnishing. Dry window frames are covered with clear varnish (it is better to use acrylic varnish for wood, glossy or matte).

After complete drying, window fittings (awnings, handles, latches) are installed and glass is inserted.

Installing glass in a window

Correct glazing of wooden windows provides for a sealed glass installation, because it is in the micro-gap between the glass and the frame that it will blow. The glass is planted with silicone glue (aquarium sealant). Squeeze out a thin layer of aquarium glue along the groove under the glass of the window frame and insert the glass, which we fix with glazing beads. We wipe the protruding glue with a sponge dipped in vinegar. Do not rub off the nail heads, a thin layer of sealant will additionally protect them from rust. We leave the windows to dry; it will take at least a day for the glue to harden.

Sometimes the restoration of wooden windows is accompanied by the replacement of glass, if there are defects (cracks, cloudiness, abrasions, traces of welding or grinder). After all, glass also has its own resource. When ordering glass, you need to accurately measure the opening, but order by 2-3 mm. less, because the glass expands under the influence of temperature, and the resulting gap will not allow it to burst.

The glass is fixed in the frame using glazing beads and small nails. In this case, the glazing beads must be prepared in advance (impregnation with linseed oil, painting or staining). You can even drill holes in the glazing bead with a thin drill. Then, when hammering, the glazing bead will not crack and the glass will not crack.

Below is a photo gallery - a master class on installing glass on a putty, without glazing beads. For example, glass is broken, needs to be replaced, but there is no rail for fastening the glass at hand, or there is simply no need for it. Putty for glass is bought ready-made or made independently (mix chalk on drying oil).

When choosing how to process wooden windows, take a closer look at the quality of work.

If you are satisfied with the surface condition (i.e. no deep damage, uniform color), give preference to varnish. At the same time, in order to even out or change the tone of the wood, you can treat the frame with wood stain. She will also hide minor defects.

If there are many areas with putty, then it should be covered with paint.

Oil or acrylic paint is used for staining. The first lasts longer, but dries for a long time, the second, on the contrary.

First, you need to dilute the paint, too thick will poorly saturate the wood and drips may appear. Better to apply several coats of more liquid paint.

The first layer is to saturate the wood. Only after it dries well can a second coat can be applied, etc.

You need to start painting from the inner surface - from glass.

After painting, remove the tape (while the paint is still wet). If there are stained marks on the glass, they are removed with a blade.

How to remove tape marks

If the windows were not pasted over with masking tape, but with packing tape, then there will be traces that are very difficult to erase. In this case, it means pasting with tape not only of glass, but also of the frames themselves (both wooden and plastic).

The first thing that comes to mind: gasoline, diesel fuel, alcohol, cologne, etc. But, these funds cannot be used if you do not want to damage the paintwork. There is a simple and environmentally friendly way to remove traces of adhesive tape - adhesive residues on window frames are removed with vegetable oil (sunflower oil), and then washed off with a cleaning solution.

If old window hinges (awnings) are worn out, they should be replaced. The hinge replacement technology is shown below. First you need to correctly determine the place of attachment. For this, the window frame must be inserted into the window opening and secured with wedges. When the gap is the same along the entire perimeter, we mark the places for installation. With a chisel we select the groove for planting the hinge and fasten it with self-tapping screws.

Sealing and insulation of windows

A rubber seal for wooden windows, fixed around the perimeter of the frame, will reduce heat loss.

You can repair wooden windows by. Its essence is that you need to select a groove in the sash. It is fitted with a special euro-strip silicone tubular seal. It is not afraid of low and high temperatures and has a twenty-year warranty.

The final touch in the restoration of windows will be the installation of window fittings (handles and latches). Only then is the window set in place.

How to update wooden windows - video

Conclusion

As a result, we note that correct instructions at each of the stages for the repair of wooden windows and periodic analysis of their condition are a guarantee that the windows will serve you for more than a dozen years.

Gazebo from window frames in the photo

This version of the gazebo-kitchen with an eight-pitched roof has a frame structure and an octagonal shape in plan. The openings between the pillars of this building are planned to be closed with glazed window frames (from mosquitoes, wind, rain, etc.).

Since it is now universally accepted to replace old windows with plastic ones, such window frames can be found at waste bins in any area of ​​any city, which means that they will cost nothing and for construction you will need to spend only on materials for the foundation, frame and roof.

The octagonal gazebo is a traditional Swedish house, only in this case, most of the walls will be made in the form of windows.

The construction of the gazebo-kitchen takes place in stages and in a specific order.

STEP # 1
STEP # 2

STEP # 3
STEP # 4

STEP # 5
STEP # 6

STEP # 7
STEP # 8

An octagonal gazebo made of glazed window frames can be placed closer to the center of the site, then from all the windows of the building it will be possible to admire the landscape and observe what is happening around. This will be a kind of command post. At the same time, being outside, it will be possible to follow what is happening inside the gazebo, for example, whether something on the stove has caught fire.

On a note!

Inside, such a gazebo can be arranged according to your taste and discretion. A kitchen block will fit freely here - a gas or electric stove, homemade cupboards for dishes and kitchen utensils, a refrigerator and, of course, a sink. In the other part, closer to the center, you can put a large dining table with a bench, chairs or armchairs. If desired, you can install a TV, a stereo system, hang a hammock here. And the brazier can be used with ordinary metal, setting it next to the gazebo.

The foundation for the gazebo from window frames with your own hands must be made from eight single concrete blocks, which are laid on the ground at the corners of the gazebo. Under each block, you need to dig a hole for the bayonet of a shovel, the width and length of which is about three times the size of the block. Then sand should be poured onto the bottom of the pits and thoroughly tamped to form a layer 5-10 cm thick. Concrete blocks are placed in the prepared pits and leveled.

Erection of walls - using a frame for a gazebo with your own hands imposes a restriction on the width and height of the structure.

On top of the foundation blocks, you need to lay waterproofing from a double-folded roofing material, and then a lower strapping is made from a bar with a section of 100 x 150 mm. The corner joints of the beams can be assembled by cutting in half a tree, placing them exactly above the foundation blocks. The crossbars should be cut into the longitudinal beams of the harness, also in half a tree. The bar joints can be reinforced with 120 mm nails by driving two nails into each joint.

Further, in the corners of the assembled harness, you need to install racks from a bar with a section of 100 x 150 mm. The distance between adjacent pairs of uprights should be determined by the width of the window frames and the door (or doors). Each rack must be set strictly vertically along a plumb line, fixed with temporary struts, and then attached at the bottom to the harness made of beams with two nails, hammering them on both sides perpendicular to one another.

Then, at a height of about 50 cm from the strapping beams, you need to strictly vertically, without distortions, cut window boards between the racks, after which you can remove the temporary struts and replace them with permanent ones. Then the height of all eight racks should be adjusted, and if everything is correct, you can mount on them the upper harness from the same bar with a section of 100 X 150 mm, which should exactly repeat the dimensions of the lower one. It should be attached to the uprights with nails 200 mm long.

Look at the gazebos made of frames in the photo, which shows the finished structures:

Gazebo from old frames
Arbor from frames

Gazebo for giving
Do it yourself

For the roof, you must first install the truss. To do this, you need to temporarily tie the beams of the upper harness located opposite each other in a criss-cross with two pairs of tie boards. This structure will simultaneously serve as both a rail supporting the B-pillar in an upright position and a construction bridge for "high-rise" work. Also, for the convenience of further work in the center of the gazebo, you need to install a temporary auxiliary vertical stand. At the bottom of the floor, it can be knocked out with wedges, and at the top, an octagonal lock insert can be attached to it. In order for the auxiliary stand to hold steadily in a strictly vertical position, you need to additionally nail it with two nails to the screed boards nailed to the beams of the upper harness.

Edged boards with a section of 50 x 100 mm will go to the rafters. The upper end of each rafter should rest on the central octahedral insert, and the lower end on the upper strapping bar, on which you need to select the grooves in advance, corresponding to the thickness and angle of inclination of the rafter. The rafters should be installed in pairs on two opposite sides, nailing them to the liner and timber. To prevent the nails from "leaving" to the side during hammering, pilot holes must first be drilled in the rafters. It is recommended to slightly hang up the sides of the upper ends of the rafters so that they fit better.

Next, a solid lathing of the roof is made from a lining board, which must be laid with the front (planed) side down. When laying, the ends of each floorboard must be nailed to the rafters with two nails to ensure the rigidity of the roof structure and to exclude the appearance of a bursting force on the belt of the upper trim and the wall. In this case, the roof will rest on the walls of the building like a rigid "cone".

The roof of the gazebo is made of galvanized sheet steel. Pre-painted metal sheets must be marked, cut out from them blanks of the required shape and size and alternately fastened to the crate using roofing screws with rubber washers. To protect the gazebo from possible leaks, the joints of the roofing sheets from above must be closed with corners cut and curved from the same sheet metal.

Fresh and organic vegetables are always welcome "guests" on our table. The owners of summer cottages are making a lot of effort to grow "their" cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers. However, hard work alone is not enough here. Indeed, to obtain high yields, it is necessary to create suitable conditions for seedlings for growth and development. Therefore, a greenhouse is an excellent solution - you can build a structure from inexpensive and affordable materials with your own hands.

Today, many in homes are removing old window frames, replacing them with comfortable and practical double-glazed windows. But such frames can be given a "second life" by using them for the construction of a greenhouse or greenhouse. So, today we will figure out in detail how to build a "vegetable house" without significant costs.

Greenhouse from old frames: pros and cons

Before starting the construction of a greenhouse, you should consider both the advantages and disadvantages of such a project. First about the benefits:

• Affordable project cost... It is enough to collect the required number of unnecessary window frames left over after the repair, and you are provided with the basic material. It is much cheaper than using new blocks to build a greenhouse.
• Fast assembly... After pouring and drying the foundation, it remains only to assemble the frames into one whole - and the greenhouse built by your own hands is ready. This step will only take a few days, but you should prepare carefully for it.
• A set of available tools... A hammer and nails are all you need.

Helpful hint: if possible, it is better to use a power tool, a jigsaw and a screwdriver. If the farm lacks these useful things, then they can be easily rented.

"Disadvantages" of a greenhouse made of old window frames:

• Constant maintenance of the structure... Old wood dries up, and gaps are formed through which moisture and other unfavorable factors from the environment can penetrate.
• Limited service life... If old window blocks were used as raw materials for the manufacture of the greenhouse, then their service life is rather short. True, for 5 - 7 years such a "house" for vegetables and seedlings will definitely serve.

Note! Old window frames are a suitable material for building a greenhouse for a “home” garden plot. However, for growing, for example, cucumbers, on an "industrial" scale, it is better to choose a metal profile or steel pipes. Of course, this will cost much more, but the design will also be more reliable.

Window frame greenhouse for teapots

Before proceeding with the construction, you should think over the important details. For example, do you need to make a wooden frame or can you skip this step? This will depend on the thickness and configuration of the assembled window units. With a significant thickness of the frames, it will be possible to completely do without a frame.

We stock up on materials:

• Rubble and sand- for the foundation of the future structure. Of course, you can build a greenhouse from window frames without a foundation, but the reliability will be questionable.
• Boards and beams of different sections- for wall posts 50 x 100 mm, for corner posts - 100 x 100 mm.
• Fittings- nails, door and window hinges, door locks and handles, steel cornice, antiseptic for wooden surfaces. When constructing a roof from a sheet of steel, you will have to purchase this material as well.
• Old frames.

Needed tools:

• hammer
• screwdriver - can be electric
• a circular saw
• chisel
• wood drills
• level
• square
• roulette
• piece of cord
• polyurethane foam
• screws

DIY greenhouse - drawings

Any construction begins with the design of the future structure. However, in our case, you just need to assemble a structure from ready-made modules. We carry out the following preparatory work:

1. We lay out the window frames on a flat piece of land, choosing parts for the side and end sides. We achieve the most ideal puzzle compatibility.
2. We measure and fix the layout results.
3. We make a detailed drawing on paper indicating all the parameters and dimensions of the parts.
4. We are preparing three more drawings - the foundation, the frame and the roofing part of the future greenhouse from window frames.

How to build a greenhouse from window frames with your own hands - step by step guide (with photo and video)

So, after acquiring and preparing all the necessary tools, you can start working.

Step # 1. Choosing a place for a greenhouse

The site for the building should be chosen taking into account the fact that the plants will need maximum access to sunlight. Therefore, there should be no capital buildings or tall trees nearby, blocking the sunlight.

If you plan to build a greenhouse from frames under a film, then you should choose a site that is not blown by strong winds. Otherwise, a violation of the microclimate of the structure is possible, which will adversely affect the plants inside. However, even a glazed greenhouse is not recommended to be placed in a windy area - in order to avoid stress.

The soil must be dry and dense, since in a humid and marshy environment, subsidence and subsequent deformation of a wooden structure is possible.

Step # 2. Greenhouse foundation

The selected area needs to be cleared - remove debris, uproot roots, weeds and stumps.

We transfer the dimensions of the future greenhouse to the site and drive in small stakes around the perimeter, between which we pull a cord or rope. Now, in each corner and near the sides, you need to dig small holes up to 0.5 meters deep - at the level of freezing of the soil. Pour crushed stone into the pits (soy about 10 cm) and tamp.

Now the next step is the formwork - we insert an asbestos-cement pipe (diameter 10-15 cm) into each hole, level it, insert the reinforcement. The structure should be reinforced in position with bricks and then poured with concrete. We assemble the lower crown of a bar on the foundation and fasten it with iron plates.

If it is planned to build a greenhouse from window frames without a foundation, then it is enough just to make a strapping from a bar and lay it on the ground. For the purpose of waterproofing, you can use roofing material in which the bars are wrapped (pictured).

Typically, concrete dries up completely after a couple of weeks. After that, the plane for the greenhouse around the entire perimeter of the foundation can be laid out with bricks. Thus, a flat area is obtained, which greatly facilitates subsequent assembly.

Step # 3. We collect the frame of the greenhouse from window frames

The assembly of the structure is carried out in the following sequence: installation of pillars and a frame made of timber, to which we attach the window frames.

Important! If you plan to use timber for the frame, and not boards, be sure to take into account their thickness. After all, a beam that is too thin will simply not support the weight of the entire structure and at any moment can fall apart like a house of cards.

First, we measure the width of the window frames. We measure out segments along the perimeter of the foundation, the length of which exceeds the width of the frames by 5 - 7 cm and mark these places. At these points, we fix the uprights from a bar of the same height. Then, over the pillars, we pull the thread along the level in order to correct the tops. If there are protruding parts, you need to cut them off.

We take a bar and lay it horizontally on the "tops". Thus, "cells" for window frames are obtained. Now you need to install the frames, not forgetting about the door and the window, and reliably strengthen all the details.

With the help of polyurethane foam, we seal the gaps between the modules and the upright ones. Professionals advise to putty or paint dry foam, which will avoid drying out.

Step # 4. Making the roof

The roof can be pitched or gable - let's dwell on the first option. First, we lay the boards on the wall strapping under the rafter support. In this case, it is important not to forget to mark the nests for the installation of inclined beams of the greenhouse roof from the frames.

We put racks in each corner of the side wall - this is how a slope is created. Between the posts we put a block on which we fix the front roof board. We put the side boards in the roof and attach them to the front board with screws. Under the rafter boards we make grooves in the extreme board, for which we use a template (the letter "P" cut out taking into account the width and height of the nest).

Now we pull the cord and check that all the rafter beams are in the same plane. We put a roof covering on top - it is desirable to make it from cellular polycarbonate, glass or film.

Each of these materials has advantages and disadvantages. If you build a greenhouse from frames for a film, then such a structure will not put excessive stress on the foundation. True, polyethylene is required to be periodically watered with water to knock down dust and dirt. Many people prefer polycarbonate as a coating. It remains to attach a door and a ventilation window and the structure is ready.

Greenhouses from window frames: photo

There are many different greenhouses - small, large, single-slope, gable, arched. The photo shows different design options.

As you can see, a greenhouse with your own hands from window frames is not such a difficult construction (even for "dummies"). Here it is important to carefully study all the details and carefully measure. And, of course, have patience and tools - and it will definitely go! After all, such a greenhouse can be equipped with a heating system, water supply, light and other amenities. Good luck with your work!