Clematis in winter. Features of caring for clematis in the fall and preparing for winter

Clematis is a wonderful plant that will be a great decor element for the garden. There are several types of this flower, each of which has a special appearance and properties. Liana is strewn with small flowers that can decorate an arched opening, a lattice surface, and can also fit well on one of the walls of the room. In this regard, a logical question arises: how to care for clematis in the fall? This is a fairly simple matter, however, there are important aspects in it that must be taken into account. Let's take a closer look at how to maintain the health of your living decor element - clematis in winter period without making any mistakes.

Clematis group Vititsella grade "Polish-Spirit"

Unique external signs can give the false impression that the plant requires a lot of effort to care for. In fact, clematis lianas are extremely unpretentious and are able to bloom for 20 years if simple maintenance rules are followed.

However, during cultivation, troubles can occur: freezing or disruption of the flowering process. To avoid these problems, the owner of the liana only needs to devote a little time to studying the flower and how to properly care for it and prepare for winter.

Note that those flowers that lived in the wild are not prone to flowering problems. They also thrive in -12º C conditions. These plants are extremely hardy and start to flower in the middle of winter.

Variety of species

It is necessary to choose a living decoration for your site, starting from the climate in which you live. Some types of climatis respond better to cold, others require heat and sun for normal growth. We will analyze which varieties are best suited for certain climatic conditions.

People who are accustomed to the cold and frost of their region should pay attention to creepers that are distinguished by the early appearance of flowers.

Clematis Hegley Highbridge

These varieties include:

Andre Leroy;
Hegley Hybrid;
Cardinal Rouge, etc.

Even in Siberia, clematis of these varieties will be able to grow and develop, bringing aesthetic pleasure to the owner. Plants that bloom on last year's shoots deserve mention. Their representatives are able to winter completely uncovered.

Zone temperate climate will be a great place to breed species that bloom twice a year: in spring period and in August.

Clematis Ballerina

These varieties are:

Ballerina;
Pennel;
The president;
Joan of Arc, etc.

These varieties have gained popularity among flower growers due to the fact that if they freeze out in the winter, then flowering can begin as early as this year.

The weather prevailing in the southern regions of Russia is perfect for varieties that are not winter hardy.

Here are some examples of such varieties:

Clematis Daniel Deronda

Daniel Deronda;
Blue flame;
Lord Neville, etc.

In order for these plants to bloom well and not die in winter, they must be moved to gentle conditions for the cold season.

Clematis care in autumn

Clematis "Doctor Ruppel"

In order for the clematis plant to survive the winter well, you will have to take into account several factors that will help the flowers survive this period. Let us analyze in more detail each stage that the grower must perform in order to ensure proper care for clematis for the winter.

The soil

The clematis flower follows so that the tillering node is at a depth of up to 12 cm.

A little about fertilizers: at the end of summer, you need to stop feeding with nitrogen mixtures, caring for clematis in the fall includes the application of fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus.

pruning

Autumn care for clematis involves pruning. Varieties that bloom on last year's shoots are pruned to preserve growth and thinning. Wintering they should take place in a covered room, protected from the cold.

Creepers, the flowers of which appear on the shoots of both the past and the current years, should be cut twice after flowering, removing a third from the edge. Having got rid of the excess, the shoots should be covered and left to winter. Blooming on shoots current year require a fairly short pruning, in which the processes are removed entirely. You need to leave one or two kidneys located above the ground.

Spraying and covering

To protect your plants from infection, fungus, clematis care in the fall, before wintering, includes treatment with foundationazole. Flowers should be covered in dry weather, providing roots with access to air. In areas with unusual temperature conditions, it is not recommended to cover the flowers especially, as they require ventilation.

Insulation materials

In a container where clematis grows, you can pour dried leaves, brushwood or spruce branches. These materials can be packed under the snow layer, so they should not be placed directly on the soil before winter. A good option containers for such heaters will be any box of sufficient size.

Final preparations

Prepared vines should be sprinkled with a layer of foliage, cover wooden box and put on it waterproof material. The entire structure is covered with soil or peat, the layer of which should not exceed 25 cm.

Video "We cut and cover clematis in the fall"

Video "Care for clematis in the fall - preparation for winter"

The process of caring for clematis in the fall is not so difficult task, which any grower can handle. By strictly following the instructions, it will be possible to create everything for plants the necessary conditions so that the wintering passes without problems, and in the spring they can once again delight the eye every day.

The name clematis comes from the Greek word "clema", and literally means "vine". In Russia, it was popularly called grandfather's curls, and a vine, and a warthog, but more often it is called "clematis". Among clematis, they distinguish completely different types not only in terms of their structure, but also in terms of frost resistance.

Herbaceous - they have green rounded shoots that die by the end of the growing season. In spring, they develop from dormant buds underground. Most of them belong to leaf-climbing vines - they climb the supports, wrapping leaf petioles around them. Such perennials include varieties: forest, Texas, six-petal and others. This group does not require complex shelter in the form of multilayer insulation, since only underground part plants is much lighter than terrestrial. It is enough just to lightly spud the root part of the plants with earth or humus.
Semishrubs - they have Bottom part- lignified and persists for many years, and the upper one dies off annually. With proper care, they can withstand without shelter in the south up to minus 15 degrees, and in the north (for example, in Siberia) with shelter - up to 40.
Shrubs - have completely lignified multifaceted dark reddish-brown shoots that overwinter well. In spring, they develop from above-ground buds of shoots that survived the winter. In the south, during winters with extremely low temperatures, their leaves and young shoots may be damaged, but in the spring they grow back.

The most popular winter-hardy varieties of clematis

Quite a few varieties and hybrid forms have been bred, which differ from their other relatives in high winter hardiness. For example, for growing without autumn pruning and shelters in areas with winter temperatures up to 25 ° C, such varieties are suitable as: k. serrate-leaved, k. ligustic-leaved, k. Tangut, k. short-tailed, k. shrubby purple lobed, k. Isfagansky and others. At good cover they will winter superbly almost everywhere in our country and delight with their abundant early flowering. Varieties such as k. oriental, k. wine-leaved, purple or burning under these conditions will be able to overwinter only after pruning the shoots for the winter.

Particularly popular among gardeners are varieties that, without the risk of freezing, can be grown throughout our country. Here are the most popular of them, withstanding frosts under shelter up to -48 C:

The flowers are in the form of single blue-violet bells up to 5 cm in diameter, shiny, but there are also pink and white flowers. Blooms from April on overwintered shoots, liana up to two and a half meters. Used for vertical gardening.

The flowers are similar to hyacinth flowers - tubular, blue, collected in bunches, with a pleasant smell. An erect semi-shrub that reaches a height of up to a meter. Blooms from mid-summer to September. Used to decorate the border.

texas. The flowers are water lily-like, slightly drooping with various shades of red. Liana herbaceous perennial up to two and a half meters of beautiful bluish-green color. It blooms in summer, then the shoots die.

Ville de Lyon. The open flowers are very large (up to 15 cm in diameter!), red-carmine, the color is darker at the edges. It blooms at the end of May, blooms rapidly all summer on the shoots of this year. After they die.

Jacquman. The most popular foreign variety. Very beautiful open wide flowers, color from purple to dark purple, cruciform shape, very large - up to 15 cm in diameter. Liana shrub with dark brown shoots. Blooms profusely all summer.

Today, a lot of varieties suitable for widespread cultivation in our country have been bred, and all of them are beautiful in their own way and are used in different directions: both in vertical and horizontal gardening.

Wintering clematis

On the eve of winter, the gardener's worries hardly become less. And this is understandable, because no one knows what the next winter will be like and what it promises to your favorite plants. If it is not snowy, then there will be a risk of freezing or complete freezing of perennials, and there may also be a danger of a lack of moisture in the soil in the spring, which will lead to a delay in their growth and development. On the contrary, if the winter turns out to be snowy, completely different problems appear. In the presence of a large cover, there is a risk of plants withering and the development of rot. In order to avoid all these troubles, as well as to ensure that the plants begin to develop correctly after wintering and delight you with their flowering for a long time, let's figure out how to cover clematis for the winter.

The main rule that you should be guided by when preparing for the winter period: in areas where roses are sheltered for the winter, clematis must also be covered. They can withstand frosts up to 30 degrees, clematis also tolerate short-term frosts at night (sometimes even down to -7C) and even light snow. Immediately after the daytime warming, the buds open again and bring joy with their beautiful sight and smell.

The whole process of preparing for wintering consists of the following steps:

Step 1 Proper planting of plants, taking into account the subsequent wintering

In areas with cold winters, plant them on the warmest side of the house (south, southeast, or southwest). The place where you plant clematis, you need to choose either naturally protected from exposure strong wind, or artificially protect the site from it.

To do this, arrange some kind of obstacles: plant shrubs or trees, build decorative fences And so on. Dig 70 x 70 x 70 cm holes in the designated place in cold regions, in which you will plant the plants. This is not required in warm areas.

Step 2

With the onset of cold weather, clean the soil around the plants from fallen leaves and debris. This will prevent your plant from pests and diseases. Spread organic (humus, peat, compost, etc.) and mineral (phosphorus-containing) fertilizers throughout the site.

When growing clematis in cold areas, it is recommended to add two to three glasses of wood ash under each plant at the end of summer. In the autumn, with the onset of the first frosts, dig deep into the ground on the site. Deep digging will protect root system from breaks during severe frosts, because cracks sometimes appear in the soil. In addition, in the southern regions they retain moisture in a similar way.

Step 3 Shelter for the winter

Properly planted clematis (which have a deep root neck), cut to the second or fourth pair of buds. Then, cover them with some kind of material (roofing paper, film, roofing felt, box, etc.), and sprinkle on top with either dry earth or peat, humus, sawdust, etc., and then with snow.

The thickness of the shelter should be up to 30 cm, in which case the flowers are not afraid of frosts up to 40 C. In varieties that bloom on last year's shoots, to obtain early flowering these shoots are not pruned. Carefully remove them from the support, remove the affected and weak shoots, and cut the healthy ones, leaving one third of their length (about one meter). After that, lay them lengthwise along the row or carefully roll them into a ring around the plant.

Lay spruce branches, dry branches, straw, etc. on the soil first. Lay spruce branches again on top of the plants, etc., then a layer of waterproof materials, and on the third floor, pour sawdust, peat, and so on.

In the southern regions, do not cover the flowers, but only cut them off. If the frosts in these places do not fall below minus eighteen, it is enough just to sprinkle with a layer of dry soil.

Clematis, whose shelter for the winter is carried out at the end of October-November, after that, may die if you rush too fast with preparatory work, and start them long before the frosty weather sets in.

It is possible to cover the flowers as follows: erect small frames from improvised materials above them, on which you fix the covering materials so that the shelter does not reach the ground a little. This will provide good ventilation with an increase in humidity and temperature in winter.

Step 4

When warm days come, make holes in the shelters for ventilation. When the threat of the strong spring frosts passed, then begin to gradually free the clematis from shelter. Remove first upper layer shelters, in a few days - another, etc. it is important to fully open them before the shoots begin to grow. If the ground part of the vine still died - do not rush to throw away the flower. It is possible that it will begin to grow from the root. In order to save your favorite perennial, winter care for him is repeated in the same order for the following years.

Subject to these simple rules, clematis can sometimes grow in one place from ten to fifty years, without ceasing to delight you with its magnificence.

Clematis - magnificent curly perennial flower lilac, blue, pink and white shades. To save it and enjoy next summer, we will share tips about clematis for the winter what to do. This question causes confusion for many. This is a wonderful decoration. garden plot needs shelter for the winter. Usually clematis care in the fall preparation for winter is its pruning and shelter in the winter.

Modern flower growers believe that it is possible to grow clematis without shelter for the winter with deep planting.

The main thing is the correct agricultural technology, in which the flowers ripen perfectly, harden and winter well even under small easy shelter. As practice has shown, clematis winter well, growing near the walls of the house and protected from the winds.

The most non-frost-resistant clematis are clematis of the 3rd pruning group, since flowers develop on them on the shoots of the current year and are recommended to be cut in autumn.
Shoots of clematis of the first pruning group (flowers develop on the shoots of the previous year), are relatively frost-resistant and winter without much damage. If last year's shoots are damaged by frost, the shoots of the current year bloom, but only a little later.

At a temperature of about 0 ° C, the nutrients from the leaves and the upper part of the shoots pass into the buds, so do not rush to cut the leaves and shoots early in the fall. When the temperature drops to - 2 ... -5 ° C, the water content in the cells decreases, the activity of physiological processes decreases, which is typical for the dormant period. If climatic conditions are favorable for hardening before winter, then wintering of clematis goes well.

To save nutrients in plants for the winter in late autumn, it is desirable to stop their flowering and growth. For this, in a timely manner, even during the growing season, proper care is needed in the fall:

apply correctly selected fertilizer groups (without nitrogen, since nitrogen leads to an increase in green mass),
timely pruning (the time when to prune clematis in the fall depends on which group it belongs to 1, 2 or 3),
timely removal of plant fruits,
pinching autumn growing shoots.

If you have doubts - do you need to prune clematis for the winter? It is necessary!

Pruning clematis for the winter

Clematis are pruned depending on the clematis pruning group. The time when to prune clematis for the winter also depends on the pruning group. If it is unknown, then it is best to prune in mid-August at a height of 40 - 60 cm. Such pruning of clematis in the fall helps to get rid of fungal diseases. Be sure to remove old leaves, dead and diseased parts of plants.

If you know the clematis pruning group, then the pruning scheme is as follows:

All clematis that bloom on the shoots of the current year in July - the first half of August, cut two knots from ground level, sprinkle a bucket of humus on each plant.
Clematis stems that bloom on last year's shoots in June, and then in August or even later, cut off at a height of 1 meter from the ground, carefully remove from the supports and lay on the ground, on the spruce branches. Add manure or compost to the base of the plants.
Preparing for winter includes fertilizing and fertilizing.
Until the soil is frozen, you can spray the clematis root neck with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, 2% iron sulfate, or cover it with sand, to which ash can be added (250 gna a bucket of sand). Shoots are sprayed and bent down.
You can dig shoots in a shallow (5-8 cm) groove, fill them with sand and soil (as when propagating by layering).
You can spread the shoots on the surface of the soil, putting spruce branches under them and on top. This will protect the bushes from damage by mice. In addition, the needles emit phytoncides and do not cake.
In areas with constant snow cover, the shoots only bend down.
In the Baltic states, where thaws are observed several times during the winter, shoots are covered with dry peat, sawdust or other material and covered with plastic wrap. With such a shelter, the buds do not freeze out, they germinate more amicably in the spring, the shoots bloom profusely and early.

For clematis, waterlogging of the soil in winter is more dangerous than low temperatures. Anaerobic conditions are created in the soil, which makes it difficult for the roots to breathe. Therefore, when preparing clematis for winter, it is not necessary to carry out water-charging irrigation.

How to cover clematis for the winter

Clematis shelter for the winter is carried out differently depending on the age and value of the plant:

put on young plants flower pots upside down, dry leaves, shavings or sawdust are poured on top with a layer of 20 cm, and then with spruce branches.
large clematis plants of especially valuable varieties are covered with wooden boxes and covered with the same layer of dry leaves on top.
all other adult clematis laid on the ground are covered with spruce branches with a layer of 20 cm for warming for the winter.
A film is pulled over all the shelters, it protects the plants from dampness, and the spruce branches protect from caking and from mice.

It is very convenient to make such supports for clematis, which can be lowered to the ground with all the shoots. Perennial curly flowers are simply covered on top with spruce branches, film, and so preserved until spring.

This method of sheltering clematis for the winter is acceptable if the leaves are not infected. fungal diseases. If the plant is affected by diseases and pests, then all the spores will fall into the soil when covered, infecting the soil or mulch material. In the spring, the spores will inevitably germinate and infect the young shoots.

It is easy to determine the presence of diseases in clematis - in mid-July or early August, the leaves turn yellow, the shoots wither. In this case, in the fall, fallen leaves are removed and burned.

Preparing clematis for winter in the suburbs

Shelter of clematis for the winter in the Moscow region occurs in the same way as described above. The most unpleasant thing about growing clematis in the Moscow region is thaws during which the dormant period is disturbed. Even with a warm long autumn, shoots 5-10 cm long can grow from clematis buds, which will die in winter. And despite the fact that in the spring reserve buds sprout from the flowers, from which new shoots are formed, flowering will be weak and late. To avoid this, you need to plant clematis deep and cover not much.

Proper deep planting of clematis, when the tillering center is at a depth of 8 to 15 cm, this protects it from frost. Be sure to mulch the soil above the roots of clematis at a level of 8-15 cm. In this case frost-resistant varieties clematis can not be covered for the winter in the suburbs.

Preparing clematis for winter includes two main and rather difficult activities for beginners.

Pruning bushes.
Plant cover.

Pruning is probably the most difficult and incomprehensible thing for beginner clematis growers. But in fact, everything here is simple!

Pruning clematis for the winter

Of course, it will be very good if you know which pruning group your clematis belongs to. But even if you don’t know, it doesn’t matter, now we’ll figure it all out. Let's start from the very beginning.

When to prune clematis for the winter. Depending on where you live, pruning is carried out either at the end of October or at the beginning of November. Try to get there while the weather is good. This is a rather painstaking business and it will be extremely unpleasant to do this in the rain.

How clematis are cut in the first year after planting. In the first year of life, preparing plants for winter is quite simple. The first pruning for all varieties of clematis is the same. Leave a shoot 20 - 30 cm high (2 - 3 buds), and cut the rest. Such a short pruning will provoke the development of lateral shoots for the next year.
Pruning clematis of the first group. If clematis begins to bloom in spring on old, last year's shoots, then it belongs to the first pruning group. In such plants, you can leave long shoots up to two meters high. The tops of the shoots are cut off, adjusting the height of the bush to the size of the trellis. In addition, remove dry, broken and simply “extra” shoots.
Pruning clematis of the second group. Clematis blooming twice a year, once on old, and then on young shoots, belongs to the second group. Such plants are cut somewhat shorter. Shoots leave a height of 1.2 - 1.5 m. And also dry, broken, etc. are discarded.
Pruning clematis of the third group. Clematis of this group bloom only on young shoots regrown in spring. Therefore, we do not need last year's shoots. When pruning such plants for the winter, cut off all shoots at the level of 2-3 buds from the ground.
When preparing clematis for winter, you can also use combined pruning. Some flower growers use this method of pruning for all varieties. Especially if they don’t know, and don’t want to know which group the bushes growing in them belong to. In this case, the shoots are trimmed conditionally saying "through one." One is left up to 1.5 m high, the other for 2-4 buds, etc. This method has its advantages.

There is a gradual rejuvenation of the bushes, which sooner or later is still recommended to be done.
In clematis 2 groups, during the second flowering, the flowers are evenly distributed throughout the bush. After all, if all the shoots are cut at a height of 1.5 m, then the first flowering will be below this level, and the second above.

Of course, everything in the garden will not be as simple as shown in the pictures, but not as difficult as it might seem at first.

Removing the clematis from the support

It can be very difficult to remove an old, and even a neglected bush from a support. To facilitate this task, in the spring it is necessary to tie the shoots to the trellis on only one side. In no case do not braid the shoots between the bars of the trellis. Over the summer, they will grow and braid so that in the fall it will be impossible to remove them and not break them.

In the picture below you see an old, overgrown clematis bush of the second pruning group.

Here is a bush to be removed from the support.

A novice clematis grower will probably have his hair on end at the mere thought that he will now have to unravel these thickets. In fact, everything is simple.

The upper part of the plant can be used as a "cushion".

We cut off all the shoots at a height of 1.5 meters above the ground.

If you tied vines on one side of the trellis in the spring, then no problems should arise.

We untie all the wires or ropes that tied the plant to the support bars.

Scissors are the main tool for this work.

We cut off all the leaves with which the plant clings to the rods with scissors.

After the ropes were removed and the leaves cut off, the plant easily separated from the trellis.

That's all, it all took no more than 20 minutes. Of course, in the spring there will still have to be some tinkering. Cut out all the broken vines, and just thin out the bush well. To do this, you will have to cut off all the leaves with scissors and distribute the best shoots evenly and beautifully on the trellis. But it will be in the spring...

Now you can proceed to the next stage of preparing clematis for wintering.

How to cover clematis for the winter

You can cover clematis for the winter different ways. It is only necessary to try so that the shelter protects not only from the cold, but also from dampness and is not excessive. Clematis is quite frost-resistant plant and it is not necessary to insulate it beyond measure.

These plants are ready for winter

First of all, care must be taken to ensure that clematis is not flooded with water during thaws. To do this, 1 - 2 buckets of humus or just earth should be poured under the bush, so that a mound is formed, then the roots will not get wet.

Shoots should not be laid on bare ground, but on some kind of "pillow". Boards, branches, cut shoots of the same clematis are usually used as a pillow. I most often pour needles for this purpose. All sorts of rodents like to winter in dry places, and the needles are prickly and mice do not like it. But in the spring, the needles must be removed, it is strong

Clematis shelter scheme for the winter

acidifies the soil, and clematis itself categorically does not like this.

For shelter, it is convenient to use lutrasil or any other covering material. Wrap prepared, cut shoots with lutrasil, lay on needles and cover with leaves, spruce branches. All this from above must also be covered with pieces of slate.

All gardeners always have a lot at hand old film. I just want to use this film to cover wintering flowers. Of course, it can be used, but with some reservations.

Clematis, wisteria and climbing rose- stunning flowering plants often used in ornamental gardening. Each of them is unique in its own way and can decorate an arch, a gazebo, decorative grille or just a not very attractive wall with a solid carpet of large and small (plain or terry) colors. But it is clematis that can enrich this carpet with a delicate range of white, yellow, pink, raspberry, cherry red, bluish and purple hues, which undoubtedly puts it in the first position in the choice of plants for vertical gardening.

Despite the outwardly deceptive "aristocratic" appearance, graceful clematis is not a whimsical plant and, with simple care, can please the eye with flowering for about 20 years. However, flower growers sometimes have to deal with the problem of freezing or non-flowering, which in reality, if you correctly study the characteristics of this plant, cannot be considered a serious problem. It should not be forgotten that wild-growing clematis is very rarely characterized by non-flowering, and some of its species (Clematis cirrhosa var. balearica and Clematis napaulensis) are able to withstand temperatures of minus 12 ° C and bloom (!) Already in December, and therefore this plant is considered to be fairly cold hardy. Such facts once again confirm that the death of clematis during wintering or the absence of flowering in it is often associated with a violation by flower growers of the conditions of agricultural technology (selection of a place and variety, planting rules, pruning, preparation and shelter for the winter).

The choice of the type and variety of clematis is one of the requirements for its successful wintering in certain climatic conditions. Depending on the time of flowering, clematis are early, medium and late flowering, and according to the nature of flowering, they bloom on the shoots of the current year, on last year's shoots, on last year's shoots and growth of the current year.

For cultivation in a harsh climate, early and mid-early varieties of clematis with flowering on the growth of the current year (Andre Leroy, Hegley Hybrid, Cardinal Rouge, Biryuzinka and others from the Integrifolia, Jacqueman and Vititsella groups) are best suited. The princes (Alpine, Siberian and Okhotsk) are also highly resistant to such conditions - species of small-flowered clematis blooming on last year's shoots, which can easily endure wintering even without shelter.

For a temperate climate, clematis that bloom twice are suitable: the first time in the spring on the shoots of last year, and the second time in late summer on the shoots of the current year. These are the varieties Ballerina, Pennel, Fair Rosamund, President, Jeanne d "Arc and others from the groups Patens, Florida, Lanuginosa (partially). These types of clematis are the most popular among gardeners, since, subject to freezing in the harsh winter of last year's shoots, it remains possible to get flowering on the growth of the current year.

Clematis of the Jackmani, Vititsella, Lanuginose groups, late flowering on the growth of the current year, and also not winter-hardy varieties, flowering only on last year's shoots, it is recommended to grow in mild southern climate. These include Madame Baron Villard, Blue Flame, terry varieties Jeanne d "Arc, Daniel Deronda, Lord Neville and others. Such plants require a "gentle" wintering for long flowering and saving last year's shoots until next year.

It is possible to partially prevent the freezing of clematis (regardless of varietal characteristics) using agricultural practices. When planting, it is recommended to deepen the plant into the soil in such a way that the tillering node in an adult clematis is located 10-12 cm below the edges of the pit, and in a young one - 8-10 cm. During the growing season, it is recommended to limit the application from August nitrogen fertilizers under the bushes, and in September add potash and phosphorus (for example, "Kemira autumn").

In autumn, in preparation for winter, many types of clematis are pruned. This procedure on varieties that bloom on the shoots of the previous year is carried out more for the purpose of thinning. For this type of clematis, it is important to maintain the growth of the current year in the winter and, if the variety is not winter-hardy, provide it with reliable shelter from severe frosts. Clematis that bloom on last year's shoots and on the growth of the current year are cut off twice after flowering, cutting off the tops of faded shoots by about a third. All left shoots are carefully removed from the support and covered for the winter. Clematis species that bloom only on the growth of the current year are cut very short: the shoots are cut off completely, leaving only 1-2 pairs of buds above the soil level (20-30 cm).

It is recommended to spray all clematis and soil near the warping of bushes before autumn shelter for the prevention of fungal diseases with foundationazole (20 g per 10 l of water), powder wood ash and pile up to a height of 10 - 15 cm, pouring weathered peat, humus or compost (2 - 3 buckets) into the center of the bush. When a constant air temperature of minus 5 - 7 ° C is established, clematis cover in dry weather. Shelter is best done air-dry to prevent wetting and decay of the root system. In the southern regions and in regions with frequent winter thaws, clematis is not recommended to be strongly covered, leaving access for periodic ventilation.

As a heater, you can use dry leaves, spruce branches, brushwood, even crushed polystyrene foam (from packaging boxes). Please note that all of these materials (except foam plastic) tend to cake under a thick layer of snow, as a result of which the amount of air space decreases and the likelihood of freezing increases. To prevent this, during the shelter of clematis, it is recommended to build original rigid frames from wooden boxes, shields, or simply from the remains of a cut vine rolled into a large ball. And in comfortable conditions air-dry shelters mice often like to hibernate and spoil plants, so poisoned baits are left under the bushes to protect them from them.

Shortly cut hilled clematis are sprinkled with a layer of leaves (covered with spruce branches), covered with a wooden box on top, on which waterproof material is laid (roofing material, roofing felt, polyethylene film) and sprinkle it on top with earth or peat with a layer of 20 - 25 cm. If you need to keep the clematis shoots left after pruning under cover, they are carefully removed from the support and rolled into a ring. Leaves (brushwood, polystyrene) are laid on the ground with a layer of 5-7 cm, folded shoots are placed on it, covered with the same material and covered with a wooden box (vine trimmings). If there are several bushes, they organize a common shelter using wooden shields, under which bricks are placed. From above, the box (shield) is covered with roofing material or a thick film and the edges are pressed with stones so that the structure is not blown away by the wind. If the winter is expected to be snowless and frosty, the shelter can still be sprinkled with a layer of earth.

In the spring, it is recommended to remove the shelter from clematis gradually so that the shoots do not suffer from recurrent frosts, a thick layer of snow is removed in several stages. With the establishment of warm weather, holes are made in the shelters for ventilation, and when the danger of strong return frosts has passed and the snow has completely melted, the film (roofing material) is removed completely to prevent the shoots from drying out. Shields, leaves and a hillock from the roots are not removed immediately, gradually accustoming the plants to coolness and the spring sun.

If, after an unsuccessful wintering, it turns out that clematis has died, you should not immediately uproot it. These plants, even after 2-3 years, can still form young shoots from the roots and recover. Naturally, before the shoots grow, such bushes should also be covered for the winter.