Insulation of plank walls from the inside. Do-it-yourself insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside

Regardless of how the material for heating wooden facade walls was chosen, it is important to pack it the day before work to take it back to its original shape. ... The implementation of thermal insulation is better in the warm season without precipitation per day

The implementation of thermal insulation is better in the warm season without precipitation per day.

Before proceeding with the installation of the heater, it is important to check the structure of the house due to defects requiring removal.

If the old finish does not meet the strength requirements, then correct solution will be eliminated by subsequent cleaning of the facade walls of the house with compounds that protect them from fungi, bacteria and mold.

Given that most wooden heaters houses are based on cotton wool, it is important to protect the material from the effects of atmospheric humidity.

As an option, tiles can be made from roofing iron using joint sealant.

The sheets on the base are better fixed with screws.

Vapor barrier nuances

Cork insulation retains heat very well and lends itself well to processing.

The presence of a vapor barrier in a wooden house is very important, since as a result of insulation, the wall is blocked between 2 heat-insulating layers. In this case, the degree of humidity in the room increases, since the walls arranged in this way are not able to breathe.

What to do in this case? A high-quality ventilation system saves, only with its help is it possible to effectively combat moisture. If you do not allow dampness on the walls, then you will avoid the occurrence of the process of decay of the tree.

Simply put, you need to equip a high-quality vapor barrier. It is performed using a special film, which is placed on the wall surface with its rough side towards the wooden surface.

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Used thermal insulation materials

The main characteristic of thermal insulation is the coefficient of thermal conductivity. Equally important when deciding on the choice of a particular material will be the flammability class and density.

Mineral wool

Non-combustible, fibrous material produced from melts of silicon and basalt rocks, slag residues of metallurgical production and their mixtures. It is produced in the form of rolls or mats of various densities.

When insulating vertical surfaces, it is more convenient to work with separate plates. The optimum density in this case should be in the range from 40 to 60 m³ / kg.

When using, the use of hydro and vapor barrier is mandatory. The wetting of cotton wool contributes to a sharp decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Polyfoam and EPS

The structure of foamed insulation, which includes EPS and foams, is a large number of closed cells filled with air. Such a structure allows you to eliminate the need to use any additional protective layers... The difference between EPS in comparison with foam is in a denser and therefore more moisture-resistant structure.

When organizing work, you should stop your choice on low-combustible brands (G1 or G2). G4 is characterized by the release of pungent black smoke and burning droplets during combustion and is not allowed for use in wooden houses.

Wall insulation from inside a wooden house

Minwatoi

As a rule, mineral wool in a roll or in the form of a "mat" is used to insulate the walls from the inside. To cope with the first, you will need 4-handed work, while the second can be completely handled on your own.

Laying is carried out from floor to ceiling, observing a tight fit so that the seams are not visible. If there are any gaps, then they need to be repaired, and then proceed with the laying of the next layer of "cake" - a layer of vapor barrier. It is necessary rather to protect the mineral wool from the effects of the external environment of the room than walls.

The vapor barrier should be overlapped with a stapler so that there are no seams, and if there are any, then they should be immediately closed with tape.

After the work done, it is necessary to mount another crate, but the opposite of the first. It is on it that the topcoat will be attached.

Styrofoam

This material can also be attached to the crate, but there is an easier way that does not take up a lot of living space. The prepared and processed wall must be coated with a layer of glue and put foam sheets on it in dense rows.

After the adhesive base is completely dry, the boards can be fixed with nails, the gaps can be covered and the finishing can be started.

In conclusion, the following conclusions can be drawn:

1. Internal insulation is not desirable, but acceptable if necessary.
2. There are materials suitable for these jobs.
3. Before proceeding with insulation, you need to properly prepare the walls.

If you do not have enough knowledge on the composition of the material and the correctness of its installation, you should consult with a specialist so that after years you will not regret wasted money. Even such a simple, at first glance, job as caulking the walls requires skills and attention, and without ventilation, the "life" of the building can be significantly reduced. All this should be thought about before insulating the interior walls of a wooden house.

Insulation of floors in a wooden house

In addition to the listed methods of insulation, which, as an option, are also suitable for floors, there are several more.

Warm floor

The system "Warm floor", using IR films, is an expensive pleasure, but at the moment it is the most optimal energy-saving option, which, moreover, creates a special coziness and comfort.

Backfill and jellied floors

Warming with expanded clay and pouring concrete are relevant for the floors of the first and basement floors... The advantages include good thermal insulation properties and affordable cost of materials.

There are also options for water and electric floors:

• installation of an electric floor in a wooden house,
• underfloor heating
• and a "dry" water heated floor.

Before starting work on internal insulation, it is recommended to consult with specialists. Perhaps there is a way to insulate the exterior of the facade, and then only work on the insulation of the floors will remain inside.

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Insulation technology from the inside with mineral wool

In order to secure the soft mineral wool to the wall, a frame will be required. In addition to insulation you will need:

1. Wooden bars on the frame.
2. Thin wooden lath.
3. Vapor barrier (polyethylene or glassine).
4. Finishing materials, depending on desire: OSB, drywall, fiberboard, PVC panels, etc.

Preparatory work

V preparatory stage includes a heat engineering calculation that will help you choose the thickness of the material for a specific wall that can retain heat inside the room.

The area of ​​the surface to be insulated is calculated and the required amount of material is purchased (for convenience, you can draw a diagram of the house, on which to apply the dimensions of all walls, subtract the area of ​​windows and doors from them).

The wall must be free of traces of previous finishing. Wallpaper, plaster, paint, etc. are removed.

All flaws and irregularities are putty. If the work is carried out at the base log wall, then all the cracks will be caulked. The vertical is checked.

The walls are treated with an antiseptic and dried.

Instructions

1. A waterproofing film is attached to the wall. It should be well stretched so that there is little space between it and the wall. The film joints must have an overlap of more than 10 cm.
2. A frame is assembled from boards or bars (arranged vertically). The width between the lags is slightly less than the width of the mineral wool.
3. Insulation is embedded, the roll should be tightly inserted into the gaps between the lags.
4. Another layer of film is shot from above to the lags. Additionally, it is pressed against the insulation using slats. Let the film be slightly longer and partially cover the floor and ceiling.

Soft rolled mineral wool is more suitable for the floor and ceiling, and it is better to take mineral slabs on the wall - a denser insulation.

1 Insulation of the walls of a country house from the inside

Before you start insulating walls in a wooden house with your own hands, you should thoroughly clean all surfaces from dust and dirt. If the house is made using timber, then thermal insulation can be provided with penoplex or mineral wool.

Before this, the wooden surfaces of the country house, including the surface of the ceiling, the ribs of the timber, the walls of the attic, and the inner surface of the roof, must be subjected to detailed processing using a special emulsion against insects. All the insulation work of a country wooden house, brought inside with your own hands, consists of:

• Caulking the cracks in the walls of the attic, the surface of the ceiling and inside the roof as when insulating a house from aerated concrete outside;
• Creation of a vapor barrier for the floor using timber;
• Installation of the lathing;
• Laying insulation and ensuring the sealing of the roof of the country house;
• Creation of a ventilation system between the walls of the attic;
• Interior finishing works for the preparation of timber, ceiling and roof.

In addition, with the internal insulation of the walls of a wooden country house made from a bar with your own hands, you need to carefully monitor the condition electrical wiring.

For example, if the walls of a country house are made using a bar, and the technology implies the wiring of surface wiring on the walls of the attic, then it does not have to be separated from the wall surface.

To do this, it is enough to hide the wiring in special decorative covers. Inside them, the wiring will be safe.

How can you insulate wooden house from within

After the walls are cleaned and the thermal insulation is prepared, it is necessary to caulk all existing cracks.

Caulking is carried out not only on the surface of the attic walls, but also on the inner surface of the roof. It is known that in the case when the house was erected using a bar, the floor, the walls of the attic and the inner surface of the roof are re-caulked only a year after the building was put into operation. .

In the case when people immediately began to live in a house with insulation of a log house outside, built from a bar, the drying of the ceiling, floor and inner surface of the roof will be much slower.

Based on this, it makes sense to carry out the second caulking in at least 2-3 years. By the way, for caulking the walls of a house made from a bar with your own hands, in most cases jute fiber is used.

After that, you should start insulating the walls with penoplex or minata. The inner surface of the ceiling and roof (in the attic) can also be insulated with penoplex with your own hands.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house, or what you should know about the technology of heating a log house from the inside

To avoid this, it is necessary to understand some of the intricacies of indoor insulation and follow the correct technology. First, the dew point shift should be taken into account: when insulating walls from the outside, it is on the outside of the walls, while when insulating inside, it shifts to the inner side of the wall. It is this factor that contributes to an increase in dampness and accelerated destruction of wood, which was mentioned above. Also, the shift of the dew point entails the soaking of the insulation, which reduces its useful properties to naught. This is especially true of the slackness.

In order to prevent this, it is necessary to use a vapor-proof film that will protect the insulation from condensation. However, its use entails a new problem - the greenhouse effect. There is also a solution for this problem - the technology of installing insulation provides for ventilation slots in the structure.

This is done by installing the lathing - wooden rails around the entire perimeter of the insulated surface. It is not difficult to do this with the necessary set of tools and with your own hands. Also, the lathing serves for reliable fixation of the insulation and the subsequent installation of the cladding. It is also worthwhile to think over the ventilation system in advance, since all natural cracks in the walls will be sealed during the process of insulation.

Installation of insulation and work on its sealing

Insulation scheme for a subfloor in a wooden house.

Having installed the crate, they begin to lay the mineral wool. To begin with, the roll is unwound and the strip is cut off. mineral wool in height. The width of the strip should be 2 cm greater than the vertical gap between the bars.

Then a piece of mineral wool is placed between the bars, fixing it to the wall surface using anchors with round large caps. This type of work requires the presence of a partner who will help to hold or fix the cotton wool.

After filling the inter-lattice space with mineral wool, a second layer of insulation is attached in one layer over the bars. A layer of hydrofilm is attached to the cotton wool, applying corrugation to the insulation. In addition to the function of protecting against moisture, the film will fulfill another purpose here - to prevent small particles of mineral wool from entering the space of a wooden house.

Creation of a ventilation system

As mentioned above, after carrying out work on the internal insulation of a log house, the humidity inside it will increase significantly.

Vapor barrier scheme for the walls of a wooden house.

To ensure a normal microclimate, it is necessary to provide forced ventilation in all rooms.

It is unacceptable to install direct hoods outside. It is necessary to create a duct system connected in one chain. Any medium axial fan and even low power can act as a supercharger. In winter, it will be enough to turn on a home-made ventilation device for half an hour a day to create optimal humidity in the premises.

Wall decoration

After attaching the second layer vapor barrier film begin to decorate the walls. The film is pinned to the bars using a stapler and staples, which will make it possible to attach 30x40 mm strips to the film over the staples. These slats are commercially available.

Having mounted such a bar, sheathing is carried out on it wooden clapboard with a pronounced texture. Warming the house with subsequent clapboarding will allow you not to lose the original look of the interior made of wood. Instead of lining, you can install horizontally planken, which will also be quite a good decision, since this material looks like a small bar.

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If we still insulate from the inside

Despite the obvious fact that it is technically easier for us to insulate a room from the inside, this option widespread not received. There are several well-reasoned reasons for this. And the reduction in area is not the worst here.

What points should be taken into account

The walls, insulated inside, do not really warm up, and temperature drops lead to a situation where, due to the effect of a temperature drop, the dew point moves into the heat-insulating layers, i.e. into the insulation, as a result of which it becomes damp in the room and sometimes condensation of water vapor even settles on the walls, which can provoke a fungus that is destructive for a wooden house, and mold will appear. The vapor barrier device with the help of a film helps to partially save the situation, but in this case, so that you do not have the feeling that you are living in a plastic bag, you need to take care of effective forced ventilation in room.
You can avoid undesirable consequences if you significantly increase the thickness of the insulation, which usually causes resistance from home owners, because living space due to this, it is noticeably reduced.

Internal insulation scheme

Insulating a house from the inside requires a certain sequence of steps. In the diagram: 1. Vapor barrier system; 2. Thermal insulation; 3. Waterproofing; 4. Clapboard sheathing.

Other ways to insulate a wooden floor

Floor insulation scheme with mineral wool.

You can insulate the house from the inside different methods... The simplest and most economical single floor insulation system. At the same time, there is no need to erect a rough and a final floor. In this case, the insulation will be carried out directly on the foundation or on the strapping. At the first stage, the base of the floor is covered with a free-flowing mixture based on sand and gravel. The thickness of the layer is about 2 cm. Rolls of roofing material are laid on it, and on them again a sand-gravel mixture. These materials will provide good waterproofing... Then a plastic wrap is attached to the base of the floor with a stapler.

The next step is to install the insulation. For these purposes, it is recommended to use penoplex. It is laid in the form of plates in one layer. Fiber boards are placed on it in 2 layers. After that, the installation of the finished floor is carried out. You can also insulate the floor with electric cable... Today, electrically heated flooring is quite common. But at the same time, one must remember that such insulation is not fire safe, especially for a wooden house. Therefore, we will not consider it in detail.

How to insulate wooden houses inside

Most often, houses from a bar are insulated inside different kinds construction wool - basalt (mineral), fiberglass and others. These are lightweight and affordable materials, environmentally friendly. The industry produces rolled and block types of cotton wool.

Basalt wool retains heat well, but allows air to pass through. Thanks to this quality, fungus and mold do not appear in the rooms.

Rolled basalt wool

Glass wool absorbs a lot of moisture, therefore, in order to avoid the appearance of condensation, an additional layer of waterproofing is made for it. The big disadvantage of glass wool is its complex structure. The material is saturated with a large number of glass microparticles (hence the name). When working with cotton wool, they get into the respiratory organs, on clothes. To work safely with glass wool, special clothing and a respirator are required.

All types of cotton wool are easy to install. To install a heat insulator made of such a material, high qualifications are not required. Roll types of cotton wool have high plasticity, but they are less dense in comparison with block ones. When working with roll materials you can cut off the required amount of insulator. Tiled ones are made of the same size, therefore, during the installation of the lathing, the sizes of the pieces are taken into account.

Cotton wool slabs

Warming wooden walls it is also carried out with polystyrene or expanded polystyrene.

Expanded polystyrene popular due to its low cost. In addition, it is easy to work with and retains heat well. It is a good sound insulator. The disadvantage is the release of the material toxic substances when burning.

How heat loss occurs in a wooden house

The walls of a wooden house have natural gaps and crevices that must be repaired

The process has a specific algorithm. In general, wood itself is an excellent thermal insulation material. Due to its natural structure, wood walls "breathe" freely, perfectly storing heat and creating the most favorable microclimate for people in the dwelling. And yet the heat goes away - through the joints, the gaps between the joints, as well as through the corners, cuttings, doors and windows. In addition, over time, materials give natural shrinkage under the wobbling of different, incl. weather, factors. Additional gaps and crevices are formed. So the natural mobility of the tree, being its advantage, turns into a disadvantage when it comes to tightness. So there is a need for thermal insulation of all fistulas that have arisen.

How to properly insulate a wooden house in the interior

When overhaul and heating the walls of an old house, it is necessary to clean them from flowers or old backgrounds to a "live" panel.

Heating takes place according to the following scheme:

• cleaning the wall;
• wood processing with antiseptics;
• dew point detection;
• steam barrier laying;
• pad thermal insulation material;
• external finishing.

Depending on the material used, the outer surface is immediately decorative or intermediate - for example, gypsum plasterboards, which are then painted or tapped.

What materials are needed for internal wall insulation

For complete, technically correct thermal insulation, you will need:

• antiseptic for wood;
• vapor barrier film;
• bar or metal profile for the box;
• direct heater;
• material for outdoor decoration.

For outdoor processing, the most popular drywall, the optimal combination of price and comfort when working with it, this material is becoming the most popular among the finishing.

In addition, it has a negative flammability, which is important for wooden structure... ... Find out more about internal plaster processing

Find out more about internal plaster processing.

Manufacturers of building materials and building materials as a heater offer various modern materials, including expanded polystyrene and OSB (oriented particle board).

In photodirectional chipboard for internal insulation

Expanded polystyrene is a type of foam obtained using a special technology, a convenient and inexpensive universal insulation (see.

also for external insulation with expanded polystyrene).

The tool will require a drill or screwdriver, a stapler for fixing the vapors, measuring tape and level.

Pros and cons of internal insulation

A wooden house is usually insulated from the outside, but what if the construction is finished in the rainy season or there is no way to insulate outside? In this case, use the internal one. But this installation has a number of disadvantages that should be taken into account before work:

1. The area of ​​the rooms inside the log house will be reduced by the width of the insulation structure.
2. If improperly installed, the microclimate in the room will be violated. Excessive humidity will appear in the premises, and as a result, mold and mildew.

The advantages of such insulation:

1. Work from the inside can be performed at any time of the year and at any temperature.
2. With internal insulation, you can save appearance the facade is natural.
3. Ease of installation as opposed to finishing a wooden facade.
4. Internal insulation is cheaper.

But before insulating the walls of a log house, you need to determine the reason for their freezing. Experts note several factors affecting freezing:

1. The outer heat insulator has not been installed correctly or an insufficiently thick layer has been selected.
2. The timber or log was naturally wet and did not dry out enough. When dry, cracks appeared in the wall.
3. The installation of the links was carried out without observing the technology, and the masonry was disturbed.

Before internal insulation, you need to try to eliminate these reasons as much as possible.

Material selection

Basically, materials are used from the inside: plaster, mineral wool and foam. These materials are most suitable due to their low thermal conductivity and ease of installation. Let's make a reservation right away that it is not recommended to insulate the walls from the inside with glass wool. Its particles move easily through the air and can cause serious complications in the respiratory system.

Consider the pros and cons of plaster, mineral wool and polystyrene:

Warm plaster is mainly used in old houses. This method of internal insulation is laborious, but cheap. and mineral wool is easier, albeit more expensive. With all this, the use of foam from the inside will make it possible to save part of the area, since its thermal conductivity is low (materials are used thinner). But due to its ease of ignition, it is not safe to use it inside a wooden house.

Professionals tell more about the material for internal insulation in the video:

How does internal insulation work?

Do-it-yourself insulation of walls, floor, ceiling, roof and foundation occurs in a wooden building in different ways.

Before insulating the walls and ceiling, you must first fill up all the cracks with tow or felt. You can choose for this and other materials.

All wood must be treated with antiseptic agents to prevent rotting and infection of the tree.

From above, all this is covered with a vapor barrier, making small allowances around the edges. The last stage of finishing the walls is finishing them with plasterboard.

In a private house made of wood, it is imperative to insulate not only the walls, but also the floors. Floor insulation is a laborious process, but quite feasible.

It is quite possible to finish the floor in a private house on your own, it will help insulate the room, but usually it takes a few centimeters of the room's height.

To insulate the floor of an old house, first level it concrete base, remove various defects. Then the concrete is covered with waterproofing, which will protect the floor from moisture.

The free space between the logs is filled with floor insulation, which can be used as mineral wool.

The material should fit snugly between the lags. Next, a layer of insulation is covered with PVC film, after which the floor is finished with chipboard or plywood.

In most cases, insulation is also required for the foundation of a wooden house. For thermal insulation of the foundation, expanded clay and foam plates are most often used.

Warming the foundation with expanded clay is a previously common method that is best used for thermal insulation of the subfloor, the inside of the foundation and the space under the floors.

Warming the foundation in this case consists in creating a pillow that absorbs excess moisture and creates additional air space.

This method of thermal insulation of the foundation is based on the thermal insulation properties of the air, which is located between the insulation granules. Thanks to this insulation of the foundation, the house does not freeze from below.

To insulate the foundation and the underground, a trench is made along the house, the foundation is cleaned, repaired if necessary, and waterproofed.

To insulate the basement part of the foundation and subfloor, insulation materials in the form of slabs or plastering are used.

You can decorate the foundation and basement with foam plates. Plates can be of any thickness, so you can finish the basement with such a thickness of insulation that will allow you to achieve maximum insulation.

The lack of polystyrene and polystyrene is the flammability of the material, however, it is quite acceptable to insulate the basement or basement with them.

To insulate a basement or foundation with your own hands, first you need to prepare the surface: scrape off the remnants of soil and dirt, bitumen and oil. If necessary, the surface is repaired and then covered with a coating waterproofing.

Glue is dotted on the plates in several places and glued to the base, pressing slightly. The glue dries for about two days, after which underground part the foundation can be filled up.

To insulate the plinth, the foam layer is insulated from the wood, for example, with glass wool. After the glue on the insulation layers hardens, you need to additionally strengthen all the layers using dowel nails.

In recent years, it is possible to insulate the foundation and basement of the house with the help of polyurethane foam.

This technology consists in spraying a special heat-insulating material on a wooden surface.

Special preparation of the base is not required, it is enough just to clean the wood and repair it in the right places. It is possible to insulate the foundation and basement in this way both from the outside and from the inside.

The process of heating walls from the inside of a wooden house

First, the walls are cleaned (the damaged parts of the wood are removed), then the walls must be treated with an environmentally friendly antiseptic.

In specialized stores, their choice is sufficient, average cost the order is 1000-1500 rubles for 10 liters.

This range is sufficient to handle 100 square meters surface.

After processing, you must calculate the dew point in accordance with a special program and, according to these calculations, indicate your location on the wall after installing the fan.

Then you need to install a vapor barrier.

This must be done - the steam lock protects wooden facade from condensation that occurs when hot and cold air comes into contact.

A non-perforated film is used to insulate the steam wall, which is available in rolls, especially in the case of steam jet insulation.

The film is attached to the wall with a stapler.

Then a strip is formed along the level with a distance equal to the width of the insulating sheet. Then the thermal insulation is tightly inserted between the vertical profile.

The last step is fixing the plaster boards.

This insulation will help to significantly reduce the cost of heating your home in winter and cool the summer.

How much does it cost to invite a team of end players?

In each region, their prices, mostly end caps, are per square meter of each layer.

But if you calculate on average, the cost per square meter of internal wall insulation is about 500-600 rubles.

That's not a lot if you think the professionals will do a good job and keep the house warm for years without any additional repairs.

How to attach a heater to a wooden wall

The connection of the heater to the wooden wall can be done when the structure starts to work and at the stage of finishing the facade.

Both options are acceptable, the main thing is to choose the right heating material and work in accordance with the installation technology.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house

If you decide to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, you need to know what, in this case, on the walls can condensation... The northern places are especially exposed to this. the globe where it is very cold in winter and warm in the premises. This happens due to the effect of a temperature difference, during which the dew point moves into the layers of insulation. You can fix this situation film, which is used together with insulation, or provide good ventilation.

Required inventory

• Jigsaw, impact drill, screwdriver, mallet, tape measure, level, plumb lines, chisel, screwdriver, hammer.
• Wooden beams.
• Felt, foam or tow.
• Material for wall insulation, for example, glass wool.
• Drywall.
• Putty.

Modern materials for wall insulation

• Ecowool- this material perfectly fills all the cracks and voids in the walls, at the same time preventing blowing through the walls. It does not allow moisture to penetrate inside, thus preventing the appearance of fungal infections. One of the few breathable materials.
• Glass wool- having chosen this material for insulation, you should take care of the thermal insulation in the room, since glass wool allows a small amount of moisture to pass through, as a result of which the thermal insulation qualities deteriorate.
• Expanded polystyrene- one of the most common materials for wall insulation in wooden houses. First of all attracts with its cheapness... Also, positive qualities are elasticity and lightness. The material has heat and sound insulating qualities.

Wall insulation technology

All cracks in the wall must be sealed with foam, linen felt or tow. You can choose any material with which it is more convenient to work. We make a crate from a wooden bar. We place a place for installing the edge elements of the crate

Special attention should be paid to this, it depends on the first beams how smoothly the next ones will be fastened, so use a level and plumb lines for certification.

If the definition of the first bar is completed, you should fix it with screws and dowels. Should be fixed every 25-30 cm. Then we measure 1 meter from the first timber and fasten the second in exactly the same way parallel to the first, etc. until a full perimeter of the lathing is formed on the entire wall. If on the way they meet window openings, they should be chipped in a circle with bars.

Each bar must be treated with antiseptics to prevent rotting and the appearance of fungi. The crate is ready. Insulation should be placed between the bars. You do not need to use glue in this case, the material will already firmly adhere between the crate and the wall.

Making isolation... Used for vapor barrier film or polyethylene, it is applied over the insulation with small allowances at the edges.

The last stage is finishing

We sheathe the walls with plasterboard, fasten it to the lathing made of beams, it is important that the plates fit snugly against each other. If cracks appear, they should be putty

Thermal insulation of wooden walls from the inside

Thermal insulation of a building made of wood takes place in several stages. The progress of work with different insulation will look different. Since at the moment mineral wool is considered the most common insulation, we will tell you how to insulate the walls of a house with your own hands.

Stages of warming the walls of the house with your own hands:

1. The first step is to clean the wooden walls from dirt. The old finish layer, if any, is removed. A bare and clean wall is treated with antiseptics.
2. Next, you need to caulk the walls. If this is a new house, then caulking occurs a year after the construction, if they lived in it, then after three. Caulking involves stuffing material, such as jute, into the gap between the logs. The work is done using a thin chisel.
3. Installation of moisture insulation is in progress. For this, a vapor barrier sheet is taken, and applied with the rough side to the logs, after which it is nailed with a construction stapler. The joints between the segments of such a canvas should overlap by 15 cm, nor should they be glued with tape.
4. Now is the time to make the crate. To do this, you need to take a wooden beam 5X5 cm, and make a crate out of it, placing the elements in 50-60 centimeters increments.
5. Layers of mineral wool are embedded in the resulting crate. They are attached with construction stapler... After installing mineral wool, it must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material.
6. At the last stage, the structure is sewn up with plasterboard. After this, the face finish takes place.

Warming of the year follows the same principle. Of course, we presented a short diagram of house insulation, but in principle, all the necessary steps can be done using it.

Thermal insulation of walls from the inside of a wooden house in various ways

"Warm seam" for insulation inside a wooden house

To maintain complete environmental friendliness, you can replace the sealants with jute, felt or linen tape and seal the seams with them.

The cost of caulking the seams inside the house is from 120 to 250 rubles per running meter.

This is an affordable price even for families on a small budget. Therefore, it is recommended to invite specialists to insulate the log house, only they can guarantee the high quality of work.

Mineral wool

Universal insulation, which is often used outside. Affordable cost and high thermal insulation performance make this material the most popular among developers.

The insulation technology is the same for walls and ceilings.

Positive properties of mineral wool:

• high environmental friendliness, especially in modern materials, where formaldehyde is replaced with safer components;
• affordable cost - the material is considered the cheapest option for insulation inside a wooden house;
• good thermal insulation and noise insulation performance;
• incombustibility;
• durability - the material does not rot, is not susceptible to fungal diseases;
• good indicators of vapor permeability, which, by the way, is both an advantage and a disadvantage.

Negative properties include:

• the same vapor permeability, due to which a microclimate unfavorable for human lungs can be created inside the room;
• shrinkage when wet;
• the need to sheathe the walls with facing material (create a false wall).

Features of mineral wool insulation of walls and ceilings of a wooden house

Unlike external insulation, inside the material is glued directly to the wall, then it is sheathed with vapor barrier.

It is best to use a special vapor barrier that allows air from the room to pass outside.

This will create additional natural ventilation insulation. Even if it gets wet, the cotton wool can dry out due to the permeability properties of the vapor barrier.

A crate, timber or metal profile is installed on the vapor barrier (you can also under it), on which it is already attached facing material, drywall, board, lining, imitation of a bar and so on.

Expanded polystyrene

Polymeric material based on foam, but without chemically harmful components.

Suitable for insulation inside a wooden house.

In the photo - extruded foam polystyrene "Penoplex"

The advantages include good thermal insulation properties, low weight, durability and moisture resistance.

When choosing this material, you may come across such concepts as expanded and extruded polystyrene foam.

In fact, this is the same material, the only difference is in the methods of its manufacture.

The main features of insulation with expanded polystyrene is the need for careful leveling of the surface and sealing the seams between the sheets. Old boards must be cleaned of irregularities and roughness, and the material is not suitable for a log house at all.

The joints between the sheets of material are foamed and cleaned after the foam dries.

Just like mineral wool, expanded polystyrene is suitable for insulating not only walls, but also ceilings.

Polyurethane foam

The material of the future, which is applied in liquid form with a special apparatus. For insulation with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to mount a frame, which is filled with foam under pressure. It quickly hardens and forms a monolithic protective layer of insulation.

Spraying polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam will reliably protect the house not only from cold and external noise, but also provide additional guarantees of safety in case of fires.

The disadvantages include the complexity of finishing work after insulation with this material.

It needs to be plastered using a special mesh.

Surface preparation for insulation

The first stage of insulation work involves the preliminary preparation of surfaces.

When working on laying heat-insulating material, it is necessary to protect the respiratory system and eyes from the ingress of fine dust and other substances.

First, clean all surfaces of the walls from dirt and dust. And then you can proceed to the careful processing of wooden walls using special composition protecting the tree from insect reproduction. It is very good if the composition you choose will additionally perform a function that prevents the process of decay of wooden surfaces, and protect it not only from moisture, but also from the danger of fire.

And yet, at the same stage, you need to take care of the safety of electrical wiring. If there is a variant of its surface location, then it must be separated from the wall. Close up the cracks

After completing all of the above procedures, you can proceed to the second stage of insulation. It provides for the implementation of work to eliminate the existing cracks. They must be carefully caulked. Many people know that after a house is built from a bar, it is necessary to carry out additional procedure to eliminate cracks, after about 1 year.

Naturally, this is done if the house remained uninhabited. During the operation of the premises, the re-caulking of the cracks can be carried out later, after about 3 years. What is the best way to seal the cracks? Usually, a material such as jute fiber is used for these purposes.

From the tools you will need a chisel, preferably wide and rather thin. For cracks of an especially large size, a tape tow is used, which, before being placed in the gap, is twisted in the form of a roller. It is necessary to fill the slots until the material used is no longer placed in them.

Back to the table of contents

Before insulating the house from the inside, we suggest looking at a few tips that will allow you to do this in the best possible way. These instructions are based on the experience of professional craftsmen.

A wooden house cannot be insulated in the first year after its construction. This time is enough for the building to settle and take on a constant size.

Wall insulation has some nuances. You will have to spend a little time studying them, but as a reward you will receive a high-quality insulated building.

DIY home insulation tips:

1. The walls of a structure made of wood, insulated on both sides, can rot and damp. A well-designed ventilation system will help prevent such a problem.
2. Even if it seems to you that the wall is freezing in only one place, it’s early to insulate all the walls in the house at once.
3. Places behind the batteries must be insulated with foil material. This will ensure the receipt of more heat into the room.
4. Some space must be left between the insulation and the wall. So the thermal insulation of the walls will not affect their moisture content.
5. Before starting insulation work, treat the walls with a moisture-repellent compound. This way you can avoid the side effects of internal insulation.

You can use foam to insulate the walls of the house from the inside.

It is necessary to insulate the walls of the building from the inside correctly. Otherwise, you will not only be unable to ensure the retention of heat, but also provoke its faster loss.

The right stuff

When the theoretical part is completed, it is time to move on to practice. And for this, first of all, you need to choose the right insulation.

Requirements put forward to it:

• Low thermal conductivity;
• Compliance with fire safety requirements;
• Strength and durability;
• Environmental friendliness, safety.

The way in which we will insulate the house directly depends on the chosen material.

1. Insulation - slabs of mineral wool or basalt wool. An old proven way to make your home warmer. It is worth choosing it for such qualities as high sound and heat insulation, environmental friendliness, incombustibility. Minus - the material is not very durable, however, for this, the enclosing structure is being erected. Another nuance: this insulation is extremely hygroscopic, therefore it requires an additional layer of vapor barrier.
2. Polyfoam (polystyrene plates). It is this insulation that modern builders do not recommend using, because this material is not environmentally friendly, it emits styrene. No matter how breathable and useful the tree from which you built your house, such wall insulation will nullify all the usefulness. If this material burns, it will release even more dangerous substances: toluene diisocyanate and hydrogen cyanide. True, this is only in the case of using non-pressed polystyrene foam. If you are going to insulate the walls in a wooden house with extruded foam with a flammability class G1, this option can be considered possible. Installation, as in the previous case, implies the presence of a building envelope.
3. Glass wool. Almost the first thing that comes to mind when you think about how to insulate a wooden house from the inside. The material is very popular because it costs even less than basalt wool, and at the same time has a higher thermal conductivity. Please note: inside a wooden house for insulation, you can only take glass wool that was specially produced for this, this is a special variety. You will also need an extra layer of film. Surely you know that glass wool particles are harmful to health, so arm yourself with special protection during installation. Sheathing is also required.
4. Izoplat is already a product of modern production. It is a pressed flax fiber on a fibreboard. Thickness - from 1.2 to 2.5 cm. The material is very durable, therefore it does not require the construction of the enclosing structure, while it is environmentally friendly, indicated for use inside residential buildings. There are also disadvantages: lower heat content and higher price. So choose for yourself based on your priorities.
5. Polyurethane spraying. As the name implies, the material is sprayed onto the surface using special equipment, which makes the process more expensive. But the crate is not needed.

References for budgeting

As you can see from the description, we are facing a fairly large-scale project. That is why it is worthwhile to approach it responsibly, and most importantly, to draw up a sufficiently detailed budget.

Medium density mineral wool slabs are a versatile (albeit not cheap) material

The reference materials in the table will help you with this:

Material	unit of measurement	Average cost, rubles
Mineral wool ISOVER 1200x600x100 mm	packing 4 pcs.	1400 -1700
Insulation ROCKWOOL 800x600x50 mm	packing 4 pcs.	650 - 800
Jute sealant 10 cm	m.	8 - 10
Butyl rubber cord 8 mm	m.	12 -16
Warm joint sealant	3 Kg	1400 -1600
Caulking moss	bag 10 kg	300 - 450
Windproof membrane for walls ROCKWOOL	70 m2	1500 - 1700
Vapor barrier film	70 m2	670 - 750
Bituminous mastic	20 Kg	350 - 500
Universal antiseptic	5 l	450 - 600
Fire-retardant composition Woodmaster KSD	10 l	550 - 600
Pinotex Impra impregnation	10 l	4800 -5200
Polyfoam PSB-S 25, 1000x1000x50 mm	sheet	170 – 220
Expanded polystyrene sheet, 1250x600x50 mm	sheet	180 – 220
Wooden beam for the frame, 6 m	PCS.	90 – 180
Larch block house, 22x90 mm	1 m2	650 - 1200
Lining for wall cladding	1 m2	250 – 400
Drywall moisture resistant	sheet	300 - 450

From the inside, we sheathe the insulated structures with clapboard or similar material

Some techniques for performing thermal insulation of a wooden structure from the inside

Depending on the materials used and work methods, today there are several techniques for thermal insulation of wooden walls from the inside of the room.

Warm seam

The technology of wall insulation "warm seam" is the sealing of joints, seams.

A warm seam is used when the wall masonry is not planned to be finished with various decorating plasters. This method reduces the thermal conductivity of masonry joints and wall joints. The material is directly placed between the beams of the wall.

For this, synthetic sealants are used (acrylic, silicone, bitumen-rubber, latex), more traditional ways... These are natural sealants - flax, linen rope, tow.

Advantages:

• insulation can be done with your own hands, since there is nothing complicated in the execution technique;
• the method is profitable from an economic point of view;
• without disturbing the beauty of wooden masonry, it is able to increase the thermal insulation characteristics of the wall;
• differs in throughput, which favorably affects the microclimate in the room and the durability of the protective structure.

Mineral wool insulation

Mats made of mineral (basalt) fiber, glass wool or slag fiber are used as insulation. This material is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties, is able to absorb noise, and consists of environmentally friendly components. However, since it has a fibrous structure, it is able to pass steam through itself and accumulate water in itself, therefore the presence of a waterproofing and vapor barrier layers when insulating wooden walls from inside the room is mandatory.

Stages of work:

1. all cracks and cracks in the masonry are closed. To do this, you can use various synthetic sealants. It is imperative to treat the wall with an antiseptic;
2. the organization of the lathing. Consists of two parts. The first transverse lathing. It is made of metal profiles that are spaced 80 cm apart and across the log masonry. The second part is a counter-lattice. It is carried out from the same profiles, at the same distance, only along the masonry. The lathing will allow the insulation to be attached to the wall surface and provide a ventilated gap. Its main purpose is to remove excess steam with streams of constant circulating air and prevent condensate from forming;
3. installation of insulation. It is better to use mineral wool in the form of mats, since such a structure is able to withstand significant mechanical loads without compromising its thermal insulation characteristics. The insulation is not glued to the surface of the walls; it fits between the sheathing profiles. The joints should not be more than 2 mm wide. They are sealed with special adhesive tapes;
4. vapor barrier. It should overlap and with a small allowance, in this way it will not tear as a result of thermal expansion of the material;
5. finishing finish. It is attached to the metal profile, and if the lags were used as fasteners, then to them. It can be fiberboard, chipboard, drywall, lining.

Thermal insulation of the walls of a wooden house with polystyrene foam

It is very rare to insulate the walls with foam plastic of a wooden house from the inside.

This method is used very rarely due to the formation of condensation, since the foam is a vapor-proof material. However, in the presence of a properly organized waterproofing and vapor barrier layers, this technique is able not only to protect the walls of the building from the cold, but also to provide a pleasant microclimate in it.

In addition, the advantage is the low cost of the material itself. Polyfoam is easy to install, therefore it will not be difficult to insulate a wooden house on its basis with your own hands. Due to its low thermal conductivity with a small thickness of insulation, you can significantly save usable space at home.

they are also carried out with liquid thermal insulation mixtures (ecowool, polyurethane foam, wet plaster). If the last method has been used for a long time, then the first two have recently appeared in construction and have not yet found widespread use. Although the advantages of this technique of wall insulation are obvious. This is the formation of a seamless layer, ease of spraying, insulation does not need steam and water protection.

Where to begin

Initially, you need to determine the type of wood from which the house is made, because there are heat-insulating rocks, and therefore costs can be reduced. The main thing is to identify the flaws and eliminate them, usually the appearance of cracks, improper insulation, cracking of logs.

After identifying the shortcomings and determining the range of work, they begin to warm the walls. In this case, the owners have a choice of which side of the wall to insulate: internal or external. easier, although the outdoor option has its advantages, sometimes the best way out from this situation - a combination of two ways.

The key to success is to correctly observe the technology of fastening the material and protect it from moisture. You can do the work with your own hands, because the process itself is not technically difficult.

1. Without creating a competent ventilation system, wooden walls hidden under the vapor barrier on both sides can begin to rot and damp. It is best to provide ventilation for a wooden house right away and make it a single scheme for ventilation. And for injection use any axial fan. Working 30 minutes a day in heating seasons, such ventilation will keep the walls in perfect condition. If you do not have sufficient knowledge about this work, read a few articles or watch a thematic video, which is not difficult to find on the net.
2. If only a small part of the wall began to freeze, then you need to insulate everything around the perimeter at once.
3. Foil insulation can be used to insulate places under batteries and radiators. It is thinner. It should be laid with foil to the radiator, so it will become an excellent heat reflector.
4. Between the insulation and wooden wall it is better to leave a small space. This way, excess moisture will be better drawn out, and the walls will not be flooded.

Choosing any material, it is worth calculating the area several times indoor spaces, so you don't get too much. Before work, once again carefully review the thematic videos on the network, and re-read the step-by-step work. And having completed the insulation of the walls, do not neglect the same processing of the ceiling. Otherwise, the heat will go away through the roof or half of the second floor, and the work done will be useless.

The choice of insulation

How to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside? There is always a high percentage of humidity in a residential building. People breathe, prepare food, etc. Moisture gets on building materials and penetrates them.

After all, one of the main requirements is to allow the tree to "breathe", getting rid of condensation.

If the same is done with internal insulation, the steam will reach the wooden walls and condense in front of them or inside them.

In winter it will be freezing, and in summer it will be damp.

Therefore, for internal insulation, on the contrary, it is better to use sealed materials.

The problem of removing humid stagnant air must be solved!

If the walls are sheathed with a hermetic insulation, you just need to take care of good supply and exhaust ventilation.

Consider the options:

Styrofoam

The first one comes to mind because it is inexpensive, keeps you warm well and is practically impenetrable. But it is not recommended to make walls from it inside, due to its flammability.

Styrofoam in a matter of seconds turns into a molten mass, which gives off pungent smoke and drips. They are strictly forbidden to insulate ceilings, and walls - at their own peril and risk.

Extruded polystyrene foam

EPPS is Penoplex, Thermoplex and others.

The same foam, but made using a different technology.

Here it is, it resists fire much better.

In addition, its compression density is higher, which means that there will be no need to be afraid of dents on the wall. The price is higher than that of polystyrene, but the simplest safe installation pays for it.

Mineral wool

Good insulation, fire resistant, affordable, but completely waterproof. If glass wool, basalt wool (or any other) absorbs moisture, its thermal insulation properties will drop to almost zero.

Constructing a bag of mineral wool wrapped in polyethylene is also not the best solution, because when fastening, holes in the film will still be obtained, and the installation is troublesome, but for lack of better options, they use the technology.

Sprayed materials

Spraying materials are gaining popularity, such as:

• polyurethane foam;
• penoizol;
• ecowool.

They have excellent thermal insulation properties, are non-flammable or belong to the middle category of flammability, rather small in thickness.

The disadvantage of such materials is their high cost. Requires professional equipment and a team with special skills.

Other heaters

The rest of the materials are of little use inside. Insulation with plaster has practically no effect. Penofol - good material but too thin. It can be used if a little insulation is required.

How to properly insulate a house from a bar outside

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Outdoor or facade insulation at home from a bar is performed most often in one of two ways:

1. with a ventilated facade system;
2. using the "wet" facade technology.

For the first option, a frame is necessarily mounted, for which it is recommended to use dry lumber, and not metal profiles, which can be the source of the formation of cold bridges.

After the crate is ready:

• a layer of vapor barrier is laid;
• the next layer is insulation;
• on top of the insulation, if mineral wool is used as it, another layer of vapor barrier film is recommended, which will simultaneously perform the function of wind protection.

In cases where it is required to perform insulation of a veranda in a wooden house- you can use the same method, since in this case no additional load is created on the supporting structures and uneven shrinkage will not occur.

But the bonus will be that the useful area in the house will increase, which can be actively used in the cold season.

The next step is the construction of a counter-lattice that performs several functions simultaneously:

• additionally fixes heat and vapor barrier;
• creates a gap necessary for ventilation of the space;
• serves as the basis for the installation of finishing material.

Often, the timber is chosen for construction exactly as inexpensive material, and the facade is finished with bricks. But before insulating a house from a bar in this way, it is imperative to take into account the weight of the brick when designing the foundation.

House made of chopped logs, production of a log house. - here is more useful information.

This method is often used for the reconstruction of old wooden houses, but only after the study of the state of the foundation of the house was carried out.

You will be interested in this article - Log house: technology and the secret of popularity.

If it turns out that the foundation is not able to withstand the additional load, under brick cladding a new independent foundation is being built at home. And to reduce the coefficient of thermal conductivity of the walls, a layer of insulation is laid between the timber and the brick, most often, foam or mineral wool.

If, nevertheless, one cannot do without insulation inside the house, then the procedure is the same: you must first create a frame, arrange a vapor barrier layer and lay insulation.

In this case, the top decorative layer will be either plasterboard construction or lining. Although you can use other materials, depending on the functional purpose of the room, the financial capabilities of the developer and personal preferences.

DIY strip foundation.

Log House: Technology and the Secret of Popularity.

If you are going to independently insulate a wooden house from the inside, I recommend that you read this article. We will consider in detail all the main nuances and subtleties of this procedure, which you are unlikely to be told about on other resources.

A few words about the choice of insulation

First of all, home craftsmen are interested in how to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, as well as the floor and ceiling. The choice of insulation for a wooden house requires a special approach, because one of the main advantages of such housing is vapor permeability and environmental friendliness. Accordingly, it is desirable to preserve these qualities.

Wood is known to be a combustible material. Therefore, it is desirable that the insulation is fireproof.

Given these points, you can use the following materials for home insulation:

• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• ecowool.

Minvata

Mineral wool is the most common insulation material.

It is excellent for thermal insulation of wooden housing due to its following properties:

• good thermal insulation qualities - 0.032 - 0.048 W / mK;
• environmental friendliness;
• good vapor permeability;
• fire safety - mineral wool not only does not burn, but also resists the spread of fire;
• sold in the form of mats and rolls, which makes it convenient to work with mineral wool.

It should be noted that only basalt wool is environmentally friendly. In addition, it is the most heat-resistant. Therefore, use it to insulate a wooden house.

True, the price of basalt wool is slightly higher stone wool and glass wool:

Brand	Cost for 1m3
Isoroc Izoruf-B	3990
TECHNOFAS L	3500
Ecover Light	1950
TECHNOFLOR	4800

Another disadvantage of basalt wool is that it irritates the skin, although to a lesser extent than, for example, glass wool. But, in any case, when working with it, it is advisable to protect the eyes and respiratory organs.

In general, in my opinion, basalt wool is the most optimal insulation for wooden walls.

Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam is a type of regular foam.

Thanks to a special manufacturing technology, it has better characteristics than expanded polystyrene:

• high strength - 0.2-0.5 MPa versus 0.07 MPa for foam;
• thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.028-0.034 W / mK;
• in the manufacturing process, manufacturers add fire retardants to the extruded polystyrene foam, due to which the material corresponds to the flammability class G1 (slightly flammable material). True, this only applies to insulation from well-known manufacturers;
• resistant to moisture, therefore does not require waterproofing and vapor barrier during installation;
• does not irritate the skin.

At the same time, penoplex also has some disadvantages:

• vapor permeability is very low, so it is better not to use penoplex to insulate the walls of the house. At the same time, it will be a good solution for floor insulation, as it is not afraid of moisture;
• high cost - penoplex is by far one of the most expensive thermal insulation materials.

Below is the cost for some common brands of extruded polystyrene foam:

Ecowool

Ecowool is a relatively new thermal insulation material that has recently become more and more popular.

Its advantages include the following points:

• environmental friendliness - the material is made on the basis of wood fibers;
• vapor permeability;
• thanks to the special additives that are included in the ecowool, the insulation is fireproof, as well as resistant to biological influences;
• has a low thermal conductivity of 0.031-0.040 W / m * K;
• low cost - from 1200 rubles. per cubic meter

I must say that special equipment is required to insulate walls with ecowool. Therefore, when working on your own, you can only perform floor or ceiling insulation with this material.

Here, and all the most common heaters that are used to insulate wooden houses. True, there are also materials that are applied in the form of foam, for example, polyurethane foam. However, they will not be able to insulate them on their own, so we will not consider them.

Insulation technology

The process of insulating a wooden house includes three main stages:

Floor insulation

To insulate the floor yourself, you will need the following materials:

• one of the heaters I mentioned above;
• vapor barrier;
• slats and boards - will be needed if there is no rough floor between the logs;
• antiseptic impregnation for wood.

The instruction for floor insulation looks like this:

1. if the floor has already been in use, you need to dismantle the wooden flooring;
2. then you need to perform a rough draft, if, of course, it is absent. To do this, fix the cranial bars on the bottom of the rafters and lay the boards on them on top;
3. Further all wooden elements treat floors with an antiseptic to protect them from biological effects;

1. then the vapor barrier is laid on top of the rafters and sub-floor. The strips of the membrane should overlap each other by 10 centimeters. Be sure to glue the joints with tape.
   As I said above, in the case of floor insulation with extruded polystyrene foam, the vapor barrier can not be used;

1. then you need to install thermal insulation. If mineral plates or penoplex are used for these purposes, place the insulation close to the logs. In addition, make sure that no gaps form between the insulation plates;

1. then you need to lay another layer of the vapor barrier;
2. at the end of the work, it is necessary to lay the boards, fixing them on the logs with nails or self-tapping screws.

I must say that the thermal insulation of the attic floor is performed in the same way, with the only difference that the insulation is placed between the floor beams.

Thermal insulation of walls

The next stage is wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house. I must say right away that you need to resort to this procedure only if it is really necessary.

It is much more expedient to insulate the house from the outside.

The fact is that internal insulation contains a number of disadvantages:

• the insulation, although not significantly, still takes away useful space in the room. For big houses this, of course, is not critical, but in small houses, for example, garden ones, a decrease in space can be very noticeable;
• after the walls are insulated from the inside, they completely cease to be heated;
• moisture forms between the insulation and the wall, which leads to dampness of the surface and, accordingly, a decrease in the durability of the structure.

If insulation from the inside cannot be avoided, it is necessary to strictly adhere to a certain technology that will minimize all the negative consequences of this procedure.

So, for wall insulation it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

• antiseptic impregnation for wood;
• mezhventsovy insulation;
• wooden slats;
• vapor barrier;
• thermal insulation material;
• finishing material - lining or, for example, drywall.

The process of wall insulation can be divided into four main stages:

To prepare the walls for insulation with your own hands, you need to follow these steps:

1. the surfaces of the walls must be treated with impregnation in order to prevent wood rotting, to protect it from moisture and other negative factors;

1. if the house is made of beams or logs, it is imperative to insulate the inter-crown gaps by filling them with tow, jute insulation, or another suitable material.

Now it is necessary to equip the ventilation space between the wall and the insulation so that the walls do not get damp.

It is done as follows:

1. fix the slats on the walls in a horizontal position. Their thickness should be at least 1.5-2 cm.

Install them at a distance of 0.5 m vertically, and 2-3 cm horizontally. At the same time, try to arrange them so that they form a flat horizontal plane. Minor deviations are allowed, since the plane of the frame can be corrected at the stage of installing the racks;

1. then you need to attach to the rails vapor barrier membrane... It must be tight enough to create a ventilation gap. Glue the membrane joints with tape;
2. for the ventilation gap to work, it is imperative to drill holes in the wall from the bottom near the base, and from above under the visor.

Now we start assembling the frame:

1. the bars that will serve as racks must be cut to the height of the room;

1. the prepared bars must be fixed on the slats. If their thickness is equal to the thickness of the insulation, the racks can be placed close to the rails using metal corners and self-tapping screws. If the beams are thinner, they should be fixed on suspensions, while the thickness of the frame should be equal to the thickness of the insulation.
   Make the distance between the posts so that the insulation fits snugly against them. For example, if mineral mats are used for insulation, the step of the posts can be made two centimeters less than the width of the mats.

To make the wall even, first set vertical posts(required by level) along the edges of the wall, i.e. near the corners, then pull the threads between them. This will allow you to align the intermediate posts in the same plane with the outer rails;

1. now we are laying the insulation in the frame. In order for the insulation of walls in a wooden house from the inside to be effective, try not to create gaps between the plates. Also, position the slabs against the ceiling and walls.
   If the gaps are still formed, they must be filled with scraps of mineral wool;

1. then a vapor barrier membrane must be attached to the racks. You can use a construction stapler to secure it.
   Be sure to overlap the membrane strips, and glue the joints with tape;
2. fix wooden slats about two centimeters thick on top of the membrane. They will provide the necessary clearance between the cladding and the vapor barrier membrane.
   Keep in mind that the lathing should be perpendicular to the plastic or lining.

To provide good noise insulation in housing, insulation of internal walls should be done with mineral wool, i.e. partitions. The installation principle of the insulation is the same as for the insulation of load-bearing walls.

Now we need to sheathe the frame. Usually for these purposes, wooden finishing materials are used - lining or block house.

Their installation is carried out as follows:

1. the lining is most often installed vertically, so the boards must first be cut to the height of the room;
2. the first lining is installed so that the tenon is directed towards the corner. To fix it from the side of the thorn, self-tapping screws are screwed into the face.

From the side of the groove, the fit can also be fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the lower groove of the groove. It is even easier and faster to perform fixation using special fasteners - cleats;

1. the next board will be connected to the lock with the previous one and attached to the frame from the side of the groove. The last board on the wall is cut to the width, and docked with the previous one. From the side of the corner, the lining is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the face;

1. at the end of the work, the corners are mounted wooden corners... They will hide the joints of the lining and the caps of the screws.

This completes the insulation of the walls inside the house.

Ceiling insulation

As I said above, ceiling insulation can be done from the attic side. However, sometimes it becomes necessary to install a heater from the inside.

If you have a similar situation, you need to prepare the following materials:

• slab insulation;
• wooden slats;
• vapor barrier membrane.

Installation of insulation is carried out as follows:

1. if there is no flooring in the attic, it must be completed. Boards or other material that is used as flooring should be fixed to the floor beams with nails or self-tapping screws;
2. then, from the side of the room, a vapor barrier membrane should be attached to the floor beams and flooring;
3. then the space between the beams must be filled heat-insulating plates... To fix them, you can fix the rails perpendicular to the beams. You can also nail studs to the lower side surfaces of the beams, and pull threads or wire between them;
4. after warming the floor, it is necessary to fix another layer of vapor barrier;

1. then the lathing is performed and mounted ceiling material... You can also make a frame and sheathe the ceiling with plasterboard.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside.

Output

Having familiarized yourself with the technology, you can safely take on the insulation of a wooden house from the inside. As you can see, there is nothing difficult in this work. I recommend watching the video in this article. For all questions, you can contact me in the comments, and I will gladly answer you.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside is carried out in order to make energy consumption efficient. Today this topic is more relevant than ever, because resources are very expensive. Yes, and the life of a wooden house, you expect a long one, which means that it is necessary that the structure has an adequate temperature regime and proper ventilation.

Today, insulation of wooden walls from the inside is within the power and wallet of everyone. But why do so many believe that this is bad and ineffective?

According to the mind, it is necessary to insulate the house from the outside, so you transfer the dew point to the outside, it will fall on the insulation or on the outer wall.

This will ensure that there will be no condensation in the room. Also builders advise complex insulation.

But the topic of this article is internal insulation. In practice, it constantly happens that only internal insulation of the walls of a wooden house becomes acceptable for various reasons. This can happen if the house is already rebuilt and has beautiful facade, which is not appropriate to redo at the moment.

You may not want to cover up the logs that make the house, because it looks much better. In general, for a number of reasons, the insulation of the internal walls of a wooden house has been and will always be in demand. This means that you need to learn how to perform it correctly in order to create a microclimate in the house that is comfortable for a person and materials, while spending a minimum of money and time.

The ingredients for success are the correct choice of material and thorough adherence to technology.

Ideally, before insulating a wooden house from the inside, it is necessary to make engineering calculations. This stage should precede all work on the arrangement, reconstruction or construction of residential buildings. The heat engineering calculation is done in order to determine where the dew point will be. Because having put the insulation, you can be sure that it will insulate, but you can protect your house from moisture only if you correctly calculate the location of the desired point.

The basic principle is that it should not be in a heater and not indoors. The error will become fatal: the rooms will become warm, but damp, as a result, the insulation will gain moisture, the walls may rot, all this will lead to the appearance of mold and insects.

Therefore, calculate everything yourself or invite a specialist - but be sure to make sure that even in severe frost, the dew point will be outside!

The right stuff

When the theoretical part is completed, it is time to move on to practice. And for this, first of all, you need to choose the right insulation.

Requirements put forward to it:

• Low thermal conductivity;
• Compliance with fire safety requirements;
• Strength and durability;
• Environmental friendliness, safety.

The way in which we will insulate the house directly depends on the chosen material.

Process and technology

Now that you have decided the best way to insulate your house, we turn to the question of how to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside. For this, it is important to thoroughly adhere to the technology.

If the insulation of the walls of the house is carried out with the organization of an air gap, attach the crate to the slats on the walls, or directly to the wall if you do not have an air gap. Use screws of the correct length.

• After that, the insulation is mounted directly on the wall to be insulated. It is laid in the crate cells. If you use sheets, then go from bottom to top, if rolls - then from top to bottom. Good and The right way to lay slabs of mineral wool - to do it by surprise. Reinforce everything additionally with dowels.
• The internal wall insulation is completed with waterproofing. To organize it, use a vapor-tight membrane: steam from the insulation will escape without problems, and the barrier for water will be insurmountable. The film is different on both sides, put its rough side to the insulation so that it is smooth on the outside. Do the joints with an overlap of 10 cm, fasten the film with a stapler.

In order to hide the traces of insulation of the house from the inside, you need a finishing: it is lining, drywall, painting, wallpapering or plastering - it's up to you. The main thing is that now it will be warm in your house, but there will also be no place for dampness and dangerous moisture!

12.06.2018

Wooden houses are usually insulated from the outside to protect the tree from moisture condensation and destruction. Sometimes thermal insulation is carried out on both sides, but in some situations it is necessary to dwell on only one internal insulation. For example, if a mansion is a cultural heritage site, and by law nothing can be changed in the facade design. The owner of a cottage made of rounded logs can come to the same decision, for whom the authenticity of the house is the basis of the landscape design of the site. In any case, using modern materials, you can insulate a wooden house from the inside without endangering the outer walls. To do this, you need to choose suitable insulation and comply with all installation rules.

Preparatory stage

Before proceeding directly to the installation of the insulation, preparation is necessary. It will allow in the future to avoid many troubles: condensation, wetting or freezing of walls, the formation of cold bridges, the appearance of pests and mold inside the tree and on its surface. In addition, there are two other important points to consider.

• Any wooden structure shrinks. Due to the drying out of wood, logs or beams can change geometry, adhering more tightly to each other, or, conversely, forming gaps. Therefore, it is worth insulating it 2-3 years after the construction of the house. This will save the thermal insulation layer and interior trim from deformation.
• You also need to decide how much usable space you are ready to lose by insulating the house - this affects the choice of materials. For example, if the premises are not spacious enough, you should pay attention to such insulation as PENOPLEX. It allows you to achieve a high level of thermal protection with minimal wall thickening.

Rules for carrying out work on insulation

If the house is ready for thermal insulation, it's time to take care of the preparation directly for the installation itself. You will need the following tools and materials:

• insulation for sealing cracks in the walls: tow, jute, sealant;
• for laying natural sealants - a set of chisels, for synthetic - a spatula;
• fire retardant composition for wood processing;
• roller, wide brush or spray gun for applying fire protection;
• hydro and vapor barrier films;
• foil tape;
• construction stapler;
• wooden bars and slats for the installation of the battens;
• self-tapping screws;
• insulation, calculated based on the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe walls with a small margin;
• a tool for cutting material;
• level and plumb line, tape measure, screwdriver, screwdriver, hammer.

Types and types of insulation materials

Particularly stringent requirements are imposed on the insulation for the walls of a wooden house inside. Among them: low thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, health safety and durability. These qualities will allow you to preserve and increase the advantages of a wooden house, and people living in it will be protected from the vagaries of nature. When choosing a material, be guided by the one that best suits your priority requirements. Sometimes price or ease of installation can be the deciding factor.

For internal insulation of wooden cottages, the following types of insulation are used:

• PENOPLEKS (extruded polystyrene foam). It is made in the form of plates, convenient for installation. If ordinary expanded polystyrene (foam) is short-lived, absorbs moisture, can emit harmful substances and therefore is not recommended for internal insulation, then PENOPLEX does not have these disadvantages. Its health safety is officially confirmed by a hygiene certificate. It has the lowest thermal conductivity of all the materials described, does not absorb moisture, and mold and mildew do not form on it. Among its other advantages are good soundproofing qualities and lightness. Plates made of extruded polystyrene foam are strong and durable - they will last more than 50 years. The internal volume of the room when using it does not decrease as noticeably as when laying other heat insulators, because the plaster can be applied directly to PENOPLEX. In addition, the material is ideal for vertical installation - its compressive strength is at least 15 tons per square meter! This means that the insulation will not be subject to deformation or shrinkage during prolonged use.
• Mineral wool. It copes well with thermal insulation and is good for soundproofing structures. But this material easily absorbs moisture, while losing heat-shielding functions, and also has low strength. It cannot be finished directly on it, you will have to close it with a durable smooth material eg drywall. Considering this, as well as the thickness of the mats, such insulation will significantly reduce the volume of the room. During installation, attention should be paid to protecting the skin, eyes and respiratory tract, since small particles of mineral wool are hazardous to health.
• Ecowool. This material is a loose homogeneous mass, which is either blown into the insulation cake using pneumatic equipment, or diluted in a special paste and applied according to the principle of plaster. The insulation is made of shredded waste paper, therefore it absorbs moisture and needs protection from it. Has a higher thermal conductivity than PENOPLEX. And shrinks over time.
• Polyurethane foam. This is a spray-on thermal protection. Requires obligatory facing, which increases the cost of insulation. The material itself in Russia is very expensive, in 2-3 (two - three) !!! times more expensive than other types of insulation. Requires work in protective equipment... In addition, special equipment is required for application. A very expensive option for insulation.

Surface preparation for insulation

Work begins with the preparation of the surface of the walls. Wood is a comfortable natural environment for the development of microorganisms. Therefore, before thermal insulation, it must be treated with bioprotective compounds. Liquid biosecurity can be applied with a brush, roller or spray gun. After that, it is necessary to wait until the applied composition is completely dry.

IMPORTANT! In the process of shrinking the house, gaps may appear between the logs, even if they were originally laid perfectly. In addition, the wood gradually dries out, which is why cracks form in it. So that heat does not go out through the seams, and moisture does not get inside, you need to seal problem areas synthetic or natural sealant.

Natural fibrous materials such as tow and jute are laid in cracks and crevices, forming rolls from them. With the help of chisels, the fiber is driven into the hole. And the cracks are closed in a way called "warm seam".

• The protruding cushioning material laid between the logs or a bar during the assembly of the log house is trimmed.
• A polymer sealant is placed in the seam. It comes in the form of a tape (for small cracks) and a cord (for large gaps). Laying the seal is required. In this case, the sealant applied on top of it sticks only to the logs or timber, without adhering to the filler itself. Thanks to this, the structure will be resistant to compression and stretching during further shrinkage of the wood.
• When all problem areas are filled, a synthetic sealant is applied using an assembly gun. The seam is leveled with a spatula, the excess sealing gel is removed.

Ventilation and vapor barrier

By closing all the cracks in the outer wall, heat loss is avoided. But appears new problem: air stops circulating, and moisture has nowhere to go. To prevent it from accumulating and destroying the tree, you need to take care of two things: ventilation and vapor barrier.

The first of them is worth thinking about even at the stage of building a house. The best option is forced ventilation using supply and exhaust systems. If the budget does not provide for them, it is advisable to equip windows and doors with special slot valves. Ventilation will relieve the room from the "greenhouse" effect when high humidity accumulates in it during the cold season.

Protection of the insulation from moisture is achieved in another way - with the help of a vapor barrier film. It is fixed inside the room on top of an already glued heat insulator. Fixing with a construction stapler, the vapor barrier is placed in an interference fit, and at the joints it is laid with an overlap of 15 cm and then glued with tape.

Note! Laying a vapor barrier is required if hygroscopic materials are used as insulation: mineral wool, ecowool. When using PENOPLEX, this step can be skipped, since extruded polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture.

Do-it-yourself technology for insulating wooden walls inside the house

For different materials it is different. In this article, we will consider the procedure for installing PENOPLEX. You can start laying after the surface has been prepared and dried.

• It is more convenient to start mounting sheet or plate material from the bottom. And PENOPLEX is no exception. We fix the horizontal bar as a beacon and start work.
• On each board we apply special PENOPLEX® FASTFIX® glue in strips - it does not change the properties of the insulation, which is important. This material is sensitive to certain substances in the composition of other adhesives.
• Then we attach the sheets to the wall in a checkerboard pattern.
• For greater reliability, we fix each of them on dowels in the corners.
• Joints can be filled with PENOPLEX® FASTFIX® adhesive foam. But since they have L-shaped grooves that fit tightly into each other, this moment is not mandatory.

So, let's summarize. To get high-quality thermal insulation, resorting to spraying with polyurethane foam or blowing out ecowool, it is worth hiring specialists. Firstly, you will need professional equipment, and secondly, you yourself calculate the density of the layer, and it is difficult to make installation without gaps.

PENOPLEKS, on the contrary, will not require the cost of attracting outside forces. No specific skills or tools are needed to carry out the work. It is only important to follow all the recommendations and, of course, purchase original material from the manufacturer.

When building a private house, both the developer and the future owner of the cottage should pay great attention to the issue of thermal insulation and ensuring comfortable living conditions even in the most severe cold. This fully applies to buildings from log house or timber. But at the same time, such cottages have their own specifics, due to the material from which they are built. It cannot be ignored - otherwise it will negatively affect the durability of the walls and the decoration of buildings made of log and timber. Therefore, it is not so easy to decide how to insulate a wooden house from the outside and how, and it is necessary to approach this matter in detail.

Carrying out measures for the installation of thermal insulation in a house from a bar or log house, it is imperative to take into account the peculiarities of wood as a material. There are many of them, but the main ones are two - high vapor permeability and susceptibility to fungus and other microorganisms.

The first means that wood absorbs and passes moisture through itself both from the inside and from the outside. Accordingly, insulation for a house built from a bar or a log house must have comparable vapor permeability indicators - otherwise the walls will gradually damp, rot and become unusable. In addition, there is a need for a ventilation gap between the external finish and the insulation - without it, the latter will take in too much water and lose its thermal insulation qualities.

And the second feature of wood, associated with the susceptibility of the material to fungus and microorganisms, requires the obligatory treatment of all walls and parts of the thermal insulation system with antiseptic compounds, and in several layers.

Insulation of a private house can be divided into two types.

1. Internal, when a layer of heat-insulating material is located on the side of residential premises and is closed with plasterboard, clapboard or any other finishing material.
2. Outdoor when thermal insulation is located on the walls from the street side. From above, it is closed with a windproof film and external trim, which can be boards, siding, corrugated board, fake diamond etc.

Internal insulation in wooden houses is usually used when it becomes necessary to preserve the appearance of the building "like a tree". This usually applies to log cabins.

But at the same time similar system thermal insulation has several disadvantages:

• reduction of the usable area of ​​living quarters;
• suboptimal dew point position, leading to the appearance of dampness and condensation;
• gradual destruction of the walls from the outside, due to temperature changes.

Therefore, external insulation looks like a preferable option. A similar solution has the following advantages.

1. Saving living space- the layer of insulation and the frame for it is located outside, which means that you save a few square meters inside the house.
2. Dew point displacement outside the walls of the house- with good external thermal insulation along the entire thickness of the wall from a bar or log house, the temperature will be above zero. Consequently, condensation will not fall out on the wall from the inside, there will be less dampness, and the service life of the structures will be longer.
3. By shifting the dew point and using ventilated façade technology the risk of mold and rotting is significantly reduced.
4. Walls made of timber or logs can serve interior decoration premises, the original "texture" of the country cottage is preserved.

Due to these advantages, the article will focus on how to insulate a wooden house from the outside and what materials are suitable for this.

General arrangement of external insulation of a wooden house

From the point of view of ensuring high-quality thermal insulation and preventing the appearance of dampness / condensation on the wall and in the insulation, the most preferable way to protect the house from the cold is to equip a ventilated facade. Regardless of the material used, the structure is a "layer cake" consisting of the following elements:

• load-bearing wall of a house made of timber or logs;
• a frame for insulation, created from a bar or metal profile;
• a layer of heat-insulating material and fasteners for it;
• windproof membrane film or windproof plate;
• lathing for external decoration;
• exterior decoration of the house.

At the same time, a ventilation gap is formed between the insulation and the external finish of the wooden house due to the crate, with the help of which an effective drainage of the flags is ensured and the risk of condensation and dampness is reduced.

Important! Separately, it is worth paying attention to such an issue as the presence of a vapor barrier film between a wooden wall and a heater. This film has long been the subject of controversy. Some masters argue that a vapor barrier between the wall and the insulation is needed, otherwise the thermal insulation material will quickly become damp due to moisture coming from the house. Others hold the opposite opinion and say that the vapor barrier will disrupt the removal of moisture from the walls of the house, condensation will appear between it and the insulation, and then mold. Considering both of these opinions, we can say that it is possible to install a film to protect the thermal insulation material from dampness, but only if there is good ventilation in the house and a gap between the vapor barrier and a wooden wall.

Prices for dowels for insulation

Dowel umbrella

You can familiarize yourself with the materials used to insulate a wooden house from the outside from the table below and in the subsequent sections of the article.

Table. Insulation of a wooden house from the outside is the main materials.

Material name	Short description
	Rolls and slabs of fine fibers of basalt and other minerals.
	Soft fibreboard made from milled wood. Does not contain glue or chemical binders. Possesses high density and vapor permeability.
	Rounded porous cells of expanded polystyrene bonded into slabs.
	A kind of expanded polystyrene made using a slightly different technology. Differs in greater density and better thermal insulation properties.
	Recycled paper and cloth with anti-caking, anti-rot and anti-rodent additives.

What material to choose for external insulation of a house made of wood

Before proceeding with the insulation of a wooden house, you need to decide what exactly to do, that is, what material. You can see the options available to most in the table from the previous section. These are mineral wool, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam and ecowool. Let's take a closer look at them.

Mineral wool is a collection of many fibers obtained from melts of various rocks. As in cellulose wool, a large amount of air is located between the fibers, due to which the material acquires its heat-insulating qualities.

The following advantages speak in favor of mineral wool as a heater for a wooden house:

• ease of installation;
• availability;
• not subject to combustion - mineral wool melts only at very high temperatures;
• vapor permeability at the wood level;
• excellent heat and sound insulation qualities.

But it should be borne in mind that mineral wool absorbs moisture well and at the same time greatly loses its thermal insulation properties. Therefore, from the outside, the insulation must be protected with a membrane windproof film.

A good option for insulating a wooden house is Izoplat soft fiber board. It is made by " wet way»From milled softwood fiber without the addition of glue or other chemical binders. Due to this, the stove works efficiently in humid and cold climates and does not delaminate from temperature extremes. The top of the board is treated with paraffin to protect it from atmospheric humidity. The Izoplat plate has a high vapor permeability, which means it prevents the walls from damping, the formation of fungus and mold. In terms of thermal insulation properties, 25 cm of material is comparable to 88 mm of solid wood. Izoplat also has a high sound insulation rate, which means that the house will become much quieter and more comfortable.

Thermal insulation of a wooden house with Isoplat plates

Other options for insulation for a wooden house are polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Both are polymers composed of cells glued together with many pores and voids. The latter, filled with air, provide the material with high thermal insulation qualities. Extruded polystyrene foam is made using a slightly different technology than conventional polystyrene, due to which the material is denser and its cells are smaller. The material itself becomes stronger, but at the same time retains its thermal insulation qualities.

Foam insulation is not the best option for a wooden house, but many resort to this solution due to the cheapness of thermal insulation material

However, both polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam have a serious drawback, due to which their use as insulation for a wooden house is doubtful - it is low vapor permeability. Moisture and water vapor penetrate these materials very poorly. Therefore, if a wooden house is insulated with foam plastic, a humid environment will surely arise between the wall and the layer of thermal insulation, favorable for the development of fungi and other microorganisms and, as a result, for decay and damage of wood.

According to environmentalists, up to 40% of heat and electricity generated in the northern hemisphere is spent on heating residential, industrial and other facilities. For this reason, high-quality insulation of buildings brings tangible benefits in terms of saving finances and comfort of living. One of the most popular heat insulators is (expanded polystyrene, PPS).

Another option for insulation is ecowool. This material is obtained from paper and textile waste converted to cellulose. But at the same time, it is supplemented with additives that protect the material from caking, rotting, burning and make it unattractive to insects and rodents. It has excellent thermal insulation properties. But at the same time, the method of its laying differs from mineral wool and foam - ecowool in liquid form is sprayed onto the surface of wooden walls between the elements of the crate using special equipment. Then the material sets, dries and becomes a very durable layer of thermal insulation. However, you need to understand that without the help of a specialist, it will be impossible to carry out insulation with ecowool.

Now that you know more about the materials used for thermal insulation of cottages made of timber or logs, let's start describing how the insulation process needs to be performed.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Heat insulating materials

Video - Insulation of the walls of the house from the outside

Insulation of a wooden house Izoplatom

It is very easy to insulate a wooden house with Izoplatom. The slab is a dense, but at the same time elastic material. It is enough just to press it against the wall and nail it in with a wide flat head. Isoplat reliably adheres to the base and does not allow the appearance of "cold bridges". A ventilated facade is installed on top of the slab. In addition, an Isoplat board of 25 mm or more can be covered with plaster. Warming in this way can be done independently without the involvement of specialists. It is the fastest, easiest and reliable option for insulating a wooden house.

It is very easy to insulate a wooden house with Isoplat plates

Thermal insulation of a wooden house outside with mineral wool

Consider how to perform one of the most popular ways to insulate a wooden house from the outside - using mineral wool slabs.

Calculation of the amount of insulation

Work begins with the calculation the required amount insulation. To do this, calculate how many square meters of the house are in the surfaces to be sheathed with mineral wool. This problem is solved according to the following algorithm.

Step 1. Calculate the height of the walls from the basement to the beginning of the pediment. If one part of the house is one-, and the second is two-story, perform the calculations for them separately.

Step 2. Determine the perimeter of the walls by counting their length.

Step 3. Multiply the perimeter of the walls by the height and subtract the area of ​​the openings from the resulting figure - this will give you the approximate surface area to be insulated. But the calculations do not end there.

Step 4. Using the formulas for determining the area of ​​a triangle, calculate how many square meters are in your gables (if you are going to insulate them as well), and add the figure obtained with the result of the calculations from the previous step.

Determination of the area of ​​a wall, a simple pediment in the form of an isosceles triangle and a pediment of a complex shape (which is the sum of a trapezoid and a triangle)

Step 5. Determine which brand and size of mineral wool you choose. Divide the total area of ​​insulation by the area of ​​each individual slab of insulation. Then increase the result by 10-15% for the reserve. The figure you received is the number of mineral wool slabs that will be needed for one layer of external insulation of a wooden house. At the same time, keep in mind that several panels of insulation are sold in one package and, as a rule, it is written on them how many square meters this pack is designed for.

Mineral wool ROCKWOOL Light Butts. One such pack contains six slabs 50 mm thick and 600x800 mm in size. Their total area is 2.88 square meters.

Step 6. Determine how thick the insulation should be. As a rule, in the southern regions it is 50 mm, in middle lane- 100 mm, in Siberia and northern latitudes - 150 mm. If it will be impossible to carry out insulation in one layer in your case, double the number of mineral wool slabs from the previous operation.

List of instruments

First of all, you will need something with which you can cut and saw the materials for the lathing. If the frame for insulation will be made of wood, this task will perfectly cope electric jigsaw with a matching blade. But in the case when the lathing is made of a metal profile, it is better to give preference scissors for metal.

Prices for popular models of jigsaws

Jigsaw

Important! The use of a grinder to cut a profile on a frame for insulation is permissible, but undesirable - in the process of such sawing, the external anti-corrosion coating is damaged, which significantly reduces the service life of the future structure.

Next, you will need a tool for screwing screws into wood or metal. Considering that the work on insulation is carried out with a house made of timber or logs, to complete this task it will be quite enough only screwdriver and a set of nozzles... Choose a tool with a battery - the wire will not dangle under your feet and interfere.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Advice! Experienced craftsmen use a screwdriver with two batteries. While one is working, the second is being charged. Then they change places, and a person gets the opportunity to install the crate for insulation without stopping and losing time.

To fit some timber battens or to work with disc dowels, you need hammer or rubber mallet.

One of the indispensable tools for construction work is a rock wool knife. You will need it to open packages of mineral wool and to cut slabs of this material. Alternatively, you can use a construction knife with a retractable blade.

Fastening a windproof membrane film to the insulation crate requires construction stapler and set of staples.

The lathing for insulation should be as straight as possible horizontally and vertically. It is almost impossible to achieve this by eye, so be sure to use building level and plumb line.

The wall of the house itself from a bar or a log house and all wooden elements of the crate require the mandatory application of several layers of antiseptic, which protects the materials from decay. For this you will need container and roller... But if you want to do everything quickly - use spray gun for paint.

Both before and during work on the insulation of a wooden house, the master may need to apply various marks, measure distances and create records. These tasks are successfully completed with pencil, several sheets of paper (or one notebook), tape measure and carpentry square.

Laying mineral wool on a wood frame

Let us first consider the most common option, when mineral wool is placed between the elements of the lathing made of wooden beams.

Step 1. Prepare the walls - remove all protruding elements, if any, from their surface. These can be shutters, ebbs, decorative details, etc. Then treat the wall with an antiseptic and fire retardant, preferably 2-3 times. Apply a new layer only after the previous one has completely dried.

Important! When working with a log house, pay special attention to processing the corners and end parts of the logs - they are most susceptible to the influence of fungi and other microorganisms.

Step 2. Make a crate. For it, take the highest quality timber, in this case, products with a section of 30x30 mm are used. The wood must not show signs of fungus or rot. First, install the upper and lower bars, fix them with galvanized self-tapping screws (using others is undesirable due to corrosion). Then install the horizontal elements of the battens, between which the mineral wool of the first layer will be laid. The spacing between the beams should be about 5 mm less than the height of the insulation plate - this is necessary for a more tight fixing of the material and eliminating gaps.

Step 3. On top of the first "layer" of the lathing, fasten the second one, where the elements are located perpendicularly. In this case, they are mounted vertically. Also, do not forget to secure the bars around the perimeter of window and door openings.

Step 4. Unpack and prepare the rock wool slabs. If necessary, cut them into pieces for installation around openings and in other places where full-size insulation will not fit. Place the slabs between the battens of the first layer, making sure that they are tightly held there. Fix them with disc dowels. Then, according to the same principle, lay the plates of the second layer of insulation. It is desirable that they overlap the horizontal joints between the mineral wool sheets of the previous layer.

Prices for mineral wool

Step 5. Lay and secure the windproof membrane on top of the insulation. Split its individual segments together with an overlap of about 10 cm (as a rule, there is a special marking on the film for this). Attach the membrane to the crate with a construction stapler, and close the joints with special adhesive tape. Special attention when working with a windproof film, give the openings, which also need to be covered.

Step 6. On top of the windproof film on the wooden elements of the lathing of the insulation, fasten the thick slats on which the exterior decoration of the house will hold.

Step 7. Lay the exterior trim on the mounted slats. In this case, boards are used for this. Then install other protruding features such as window and sheds, shutters, slopes, decorative details, and more.

Laying mineral wool on brackets

Now let's consider another option for outdoor insulation of the house. Here, mineral wool is not attached to the crate, but to metal brackets.

Step 1. Prepare the walls - treat them with an antiseptic and fire retardant. Then unpack the mounting brackets and calculate how many you need.

Step 2. Fasten the metal brackets to the wall using two long roofing screws with press washers. Since the house will subsequently be finished with siding, the fasteners are located with a step corresponding to the interval between the lathing elements for vinyl panels.

Important! For better sound and heat insulation, place small pieces of paronite under the part of the brackets that touches the wood.

Step 3. Unpack the mineral wool, check the quality of the insulation and prepare it for installation.

Step 4. Install rock wool slabs on the walls. To do this, place them on the brackets mounted in the previous stages of work. The holes for this can either be pushed through by the fasteners themselves, or cut with a knife.

Step 5. For better fixation, screw the disc dowels evenly over the area of ​​each individual plate.

Step 6. Repeat the previous two steps for all walls and gables of the house.

Step 7. Lay a windproof film on top of the insulation layer. Fasten it with an overlap with disc dowels.

Step 8. Use a knife or scissors to cut the slots in the windscreen through which the ends of the brackets should pass.

Step 9. Prepare, cut and fix on the brackets with self-tapping screws the vertical and horizontal elements of the lathing from the metal profile. In this case, it is very important to achieve the evenness of each individual post or beam, using a plumb line and a building level.

Step 10. Install the external trim on the batten, equipped in the previous operation. In this case, these are vinyl siding panels.

With a competent approach to business, external insulation of a wooden house will provide you with coziness and comfort of living in a new place.