How to make a corner wardrobe. Do-it-yourself corner wardrobe: device

The design of a living space plays a very important role in the life of a modern person, so much attention is paid to its creation. In the interior of the rooms, every detail is thought through, from flooring, wall decoration and ending with furniture. At the same time, the furniture should be multifunctional, ergonomic, reliable, durable and beautiful. Recently, many prefer corner cabinets, as they are perfectly combined with the overall interior of the room, do not take up much space. You can make corner cabinets with your own hands: this way you can free the room from the traditional bulky wardrobe.

Benefits of a corner cabinet

When decorating a room, special attention should be paid to the choice of furniture so that it is convenient, comfortable and does not take up much space. Recently, corner cabinets have become in great demand. They are an excellent alternative to conventional models, as they have the following advantages:

Versatility. You can independently make a cabinet of any size, any shape. In addition, it is possible to select the desired color with maximum accuracy. The design made in this way will harmonize well with the rest of the furniture in the apartment.

Multifunctionality. The corner cabinet model can be supplemented with mezzanines, hangers, drawers and shelves. Therefore, outwardly, the furniture will look compact, and inside it will be possible to place many things and objects without any problems. Home-made corner cabinets will fit not only clothes, shoes, household appliances, toys, but even various cleaning products. Before starting the assembly of the structure, you need to carefully consider the placement of future drawers and shelves, so it will be possible to rationally use the space of the room.
Ease of use. Modern door mechanisms make closing and opening the cabinet noiseless.

There are many positive qualities, but the main advantage of corner cabinets is space saving. Thanks to its convenient design, it can be easily installed even in the smallest room. Such models look original in the bedroom, living room and hallway.

Do-it-yourself development stages

If you are going to start working on the manufacture of a cabinet, you should carefully consider all the details of future furniture, its appearance, dimensions. In addition, you need to know how to make a drawing, a cabinet diagram, according to which the walls will be cut out, and the assembly itself is carried out. As a rule, the diagram contains all the necessary dimensions and distances that are needed for attaching parts. The drawing is drawn by hand or made to order. Before making a cabinet, you need to take into account various nuances.

How to make a drawing?

When creating diagrams, the external dimensions of the product are first indicated: the dimensions of the cabinet box, its height and width. The drawings must also show the thickness of all parts. First, the construction box itself is drawn, then its content. All schemes should consist of two main views: side and front. The sketches must indicate the width of the sections, the distance between the shelves, the height of the plinth and the dimensions from the beginning of the part to the attachment point.

How not to make a mistake with the sizes?

When drawing drawings, it is necessary to use the simplest geometry formulas that everyone has known since school. At the same time, when drawing diagrams, it is worth knowing the exact dimensions of the cabinet. How to calculate dimensions - this question worries all novice masters. However, this is not difficult: you should calculate the size of the diagonal yourself (for a standard size construction it is 80 × 80 cm), the thickness of the material and the size of the gaps, and you also need to design the corner of the facade.

In order for the facades to open freely during operation and not to ask each other, it is necessary to provide for the presence of small gaps on each side.

What should be the facade?

When assembling a corner cabinet with your own hands, you also need to know what the facade should be like. To do this, it is initially required to design a structural model, then, according to the drawings, it is necessary to manufacture and assemble the parts, correctly measuring the dimensions of the opening. Many people buy a ready-made facade (on order). However, if there is a desire, then it is quite possible to make it yourself. To do this, you need to use a geometric formula, not forgetting the thickness of the side walls.

How to arrange inside?

When all the sketches are ready, it remains to decide what the closet will be like inside. It is worth noting that the "stuffing" of the design directly depends on personal preferences. The most economical option is the use of stationary laminated shelves and clothes rails.

If financial possibilities allow, then the cabinet can be additionally equipped with pull-out shelves, baskets, and various products on pull-out wheels.

Material selection

An important issue in the independent manufacture of the cabinet is the choice of material. It is immediately worth noting that natural wood is rarely used in this case, because its price is high, and it is rather difficult to assemble a wooden cabinet that would meet all the requirements during operation. In addition, the care of such furniture is time-consuming, natural raw materials are “capricious” in operation, require additional coating with protective varnishes and paints. Therefore, many craftsmen prefer to use drywall, chipboard and MDF for the manufacture of corner cabinets.

Chipboard is a board made of wood chips, which are produced by hot pressing. Chipboard can vary in cladding options, thickness, number of layers and formaldehyde content. As a rule, plates with a thickness of 16, 18 and 25 mm are chosen for the structure body. Their performance will not differ, the only thing is that the thicker the chipboard, the more solid the cabinet will turn out. Often the plates are lined with a special film - under natural wood or plastic.

MDF- this is a finely dispersed fraction, which is essentially the same sawdust, only processed by dry pressing. Such raw materials are considered environmentally friendly. MDF boards are decorated in various ways, they are reliable and have an aesthetic appearance. In some cases, drywall sheets are used to assemble furniture, which is presented in a wide range.

When choosing raw materials for a cabinet, you need to consider not only its appearance, but also practicality.

accessories

When all the main parts of the case are ready, it is worth choosing the accessories for the cabinet. Today, it is not difficult to purchase the right accessories. Components can be different - depending on the shape of the structure and its content.

For a corner cabinet of standard sizes, you will need the following items:

shelf holder;
self-tapping screws (for fixing adjustable supports and facade hinges);
pole or crossbar;
adjustable support;
furniture hinges;
pens;
screws;
washers for screws;
nails;
legs.

It is worth noting that the number and dimensions of components directly depend on the dimensions of the cabinet, the thickness of its walls and internal content.

How to redo the old one?

Quite often, furniture becomes old-fashioned during operation and loses its original attractiveness, but at the same time it is quite reliable and strong. In this case, the right solution would be its modernization. In addition, it is quite possible to make a corner cabinet out of an ordinary one or to remake the design from an old wardrobe. To create a new cabinet model, you will need to calculate the dimensions of the corner structure, prepare all the details and process the old surface.

Sequencing:

Remove old paint or varnish, sand all exterior furniture parts.
Paint. It can be either a plain layer or an original one with divorces. A smooth transition looks beautiful (paints of different shades).
Varnish. In the event that the old cabinet is made of natural wood, then it has a natural texture, which only needs to be supplemented with a protective coating. Such a restored product will fit well into the design of rooms decorated in eco and country styles.
Decorate with appliqués from photographs or cover with foil. The film with images of stone, wood, metal looks unusual.

Then you need to pick up the front accessories. So the appearance of the corner cabinet will change, and the decorative overlays will accurately indicate the style of the room. We must not forget about the replacement of handles. If you choose porcelain models painted with flowers, you will get a Provence-style cabinet, but staples made from palm root will indicate ethno.

A wardrobe in a new form must be provided with modern functionality, this will make it comfortable and roomy. At the same time, it is better to remove the standard shelves from the old cabinet and replace them with multifunctional retractable systems. So instead of an outdated wardrobe, you get a modern model of a corner cabinet with rods for all types of clothes, laundry baskets, shoe racks and hangers for belts and ties.

The presence of internal illumination will not interfere in the corner design.

You will learn more about how to make and how to restore a cabinet with your own hands from the next video.

How to put it right?

Furniture is important for every apartment. At the same time, a corner cabinet deserves special attention, its location directly depends on the room in which such furniture is installed. Often similar designs can be found in the kitchen. Thanks to the universal forms, the cabinet will not only fit beautifully into the overall interior of the room, but also help save space. In addition, corner cabinets in the kitchen (thanks to the many drawers and shelves) allow housewives to store various things.

No hallway can do without such an important piece of furniture as a closet. It is an indispensable part of such a room. The corner cabinet is easy to place in any corner of the hallway. At the same time, the design will become a decorative element in the interior, it will save space well.

Designers advise using corner cabinets in the nursery. It is in this room that children have to spend most of their time, so it should be comfortable for classes and games. The corner model is considered the ideal solution for a nursery, it is very well suited for storing things, toys and does not clutter up the space.

The sliding wardrobe saves space by itself, and if it is made in the corner, then this is the most successful option. It does not attract too much attention to itself, leaves a lot of free space in the apartment, and how much you can put in it! It is quite possible to make a convenient corner wardrobe with your own hands.

Design features

Unlike its conventional counterparts, the corner wardrobe is always designed to be stationary. It is created for the dimensions of a particular angle and does not imply its movement.

First you need to decide what kind of corner cabinet you need. The main types of construction:

triangular;
trapezoidal;
g-shaped;
"five-wall".

In addition, cabinets can be built-in and cabinet. The built-in closet is essentially a small pantry. The shelves in it are mounted directly on the walls, and the space is enclosed by a door. The cabinet has a plinth, top cover and rear wall, at least from thin sheets of fiberboard.

The most “economical” for space is a triangular cabinet: it does not have side walls. Its depth will be determined only by the width of the walls that you are ready to “give away”. The rest of the cabinets are a bit more difficult to make and will have extra depth.

If you decide to make a do-it-yourself corner wardrobe, it makes sense to use the entire space from floor to ceiling to ensure maximum capacity.

It is very important to take into account the features of the corner itself. If there are irregularities on the floor or walls, they must be leveled, because. they can affect the operation of the sliding door mechanism. In addition, experts recommend doing all preliminary measurements only after leveling the walls and floor! Pay attention to the plinth near the floor or under the ceiling - will it allow you to mount the cabinet?

Today, the manufacture of a radius cabinet is popular, the facade of which is made in the form of a semicircle or wave. Such furniture harmoniously fits into a variety of interiors. Such a closet is especially good for a large hallway and bedroom. For the kitchen, the corner version of drywall is very popular - it is simple in execution and takes up very little space.

When you make drawings of the internal content of such a cabinet, you need to take into account its purpose. If this is a closet for the hallway, it should have a bar for outerwear, shelves for shoes (possibly high - for boots), shelves for hats and accessories, a place for umbrellas, gloves, etc. In the living room, the sliding wardrobe can serve as a storage for books, documents, blankets and bedspreads, beautiful dishes. Accordingly, the main thing in it is the shelves. A small safe can also be provided. The sliding wardrobe for a bedroom usually fits in itself clothes, linen, bed linen. It is appropriate and the bar, and drawers, and shelves, and cells.

Step-by-step instruction

After the schemes and sketches of the cabinet have been created and approved by your household, you can begin to manufacture the cabinet. You will need the following materials and tools (sample list):

furniture board;
metal profile and roller mechanism for doors;
fiberboard sheets for the back wall (if it is supposed);
boxes, doors, rods, hooks;
accessories;
false panels (if necessary);
perforator;
screwdriver;
"hexagon";
"level" (to assess the evenness of the shelves);
glue, ruler, tape measure, pencil;
triangle;
screwdrivers, hammer;
fasteners (bolts, confirmations, shelf supports, etc.)

According to the experience of many men who have already created cabinets with their own hands, sawing boards and their outer edging is best left to professionals: give the material to a workshop where there is a special tool for precise cutting. They can also make original milling on the facades. You can independently “cut” shelves and parts for drawers - i.e. cabinet interior.

If your wardrobe is built-in, first of all, you need to mark the borders on the floor where the doors will be. The same lines must be applied to the ceiling. Then shelves and rods are screwed to the walls using a puncher and other tools. The final touch is the guides for the doors and the doors themselves.

For a cabinet with rear walls and a bottom, the plinth or plinth of the cabinet is first assembled and installed. Then begins the long and responsible process of drilling holes. You must first carefully mark all attachment points. Then you can drill. If the hole is made on a plane, an 8mm drill will be required. For end holes - 5 mm, and its depth should not exceed 60 mm.

Each handmade wardrobe is unique, so it is impossible to make a universal description that would suit everyone. But there are some general principles for assembling this type of furniture.

First, the cabinet frame is assembled - that is, its vertical walls and partitions, which are fastened together by horizontal lines - a plinth, top cover, etc. Then shelves and rods are screwed to the side walls. Carriages for boxes are attached. A metal sliding door mechanism is attached to the top and bottom. After that, the back wall is attached (usually it consists of several sheets of fiberboard, cut into sections of the cabinet). Then - drawers and doors are installed.

Ideally, the cabinet should be assembled "lying down" - i.e. laying out the pieces on the floor. So more likely to assemble accurately. But this is not always possible due to limited space. In addition, a tall cabinet that almost reaches the ceiling can be very difficult to lift. The main rule of the “standing” assembly is to assemble all the details from the bottom up - the plinth, side walls and partitions, then the shelves, etc.

A carefully thought out sketch, a good layout, a little patience and precision - and your own corner cabinet will delight you for many years!

It is quite difficult to make a corner cabinet for the kitchen on your own, but the result will meet all expectations. Creating furniture for kitchens of non-standard dimensions depends on the layout of the room. Stores don't always offer corner cabinets to save space in a small kitchen.

It is quite difficult to make a corner cabinet for the kitchen on your own, but the result will meet all expectations.

Sometimes you may only need a floor cabinet, but the conditions of a small kitchen do not allow you to put it indoors. It will be cheaper to make it yourself than to spend money on ordering custom-sized furniture. Having thought over the design at the beginning, you should begin to develop a drawing indicating all dimensions. The purchase of the necessary materials is made on the basis of the calculations made.

On sale for creating pieces of furniture there is always chipboard and MDF. These types of materials are in great demand. The specialists who sell them can immediately process the edges of the workpieces after cutting. If you order drilling of holes in advance, this will allow you to connect the parts with the help of dowels.

You can make not only small floor cabinets, but also furniture sets. They are necessary for storing utensils, dishes, household kitchen appliances, products. Before creating such a project, a kitchen plan is drawn up, where the location of the stove, sink, pipes, hoods, etc. is marked. Wall cabinets allow you to disguise the gas meter and wiring. Inside they provide shelves where dishes should be stored.

If the kitchen is already furnished, then it is the plan that can help to increase its functionality. When compiling it, you need to make sure that the new furniture will fit between the items already installed. It may be necessary to make drawers for the kitchen, the exact measurements of which are of great importance. Furniture doors should open and fold freely, and drawers should slide out. When taking measurements in the kitchen, it should be noted that its corners may not be perfectly straight.

It is important that the corner cabinet can fit closely between adjacent pieces of furniture. The curvature of the corners and walls leads to the fact that adjacent cabinets have walls that are 1 cm or more apart from each other in one place, and in another - such a gap disappears. This leads to a lack of space for new furniture. If you make an angular structure yourself, then it can always be made smaller in size.

How to make a kitchen corner cabinet (video)

Materials for self-creation of furniture

A well-furnished kitchen should be furnished in a unified style. If the kitchen has pieces of furniture whose appearance is outdated, you can replace their facades. This will require the purchase of new materials. For this purpose, the decoupage technique is also suitable. You can decorate in this style furniture made from the same types of materials.

The choice of material can begin after determining the place where the kitchen cabinet will be located. It can be corner or wall, which is determined in advance. Pre-measurements are made, and then sawing is ordered.

It is possible to produce not only small floor cabinets, but also furniture sets

The material used for the manufacture of kitchen furniture must meet the following requirements:

resistance to high humidity and hot steam;
strength;
ease of care, etc.

Laminated chipboard, which has increased moisture resistance and density, is considered ideal. The thickness of this material can be 16-18 mm. From above it is covered with a layer of artificial veneer. To make a cabinet for the kitchen, you can use the following types of materials:

MDF boards;
multiplex;
wood mass.

In order to save materials, it will be necessary to plan the manufacture of small pieces of furniture. For example, a narrow cabinet for dishes will not take up much space in the kitchen.

A wall cabinet for the kitchen, made of MDF boards, will withstand any adverse effects. The cost of this material is more expensive than chipboard, so the product will be of better quality. The surface of MDF boards can be matte or glossy, painted or laminated.

The kitchen, furnished with multiplex furniture, is resistant to mechanical stress. This material is considered moisture resistant, it is made of thick veneer. Polyurethane varnish is used to cover the surface. If you make custom-made curved panels, then you can make a corner sideboard with a radius facade from this material.

Solid wood is the most expensive material, which requires special impregnation, as well as protective varnish treatment. From such a canvas, you can make an elite sideboard for the kitchen by combining it with other types of materials. For example, it can be frames for facades.

Do-it-yourself corner kitchen (video)

Preparing to build the model

The kitchen is a place for cooking, so safety requirements must be observed in this room: the distance between the cabinets and the sink, table or stove must be made acceptable. The corner design of the cabinet includes left and right sidewalls, symmetrical to each other. The dimensions of the roof and bottom are usually exactly the same. Some models may include a back.

The height of the kitchen cabinet is usually related to the height of the table, stove or sink. If the kitchen has a high ceiling, then you can make a cabinet-pencil case with your own hands. The countertop, which is the cabinet cover, should protrude beyond the facade. The depth of the inner shelves is less than the lid and bottom, otherwise the door of the product will not close. Wall cabinets sometimes reach the ceiling, especially in small kitchens.

The kitchen, furnished with multiplex furniture, is resistant to mechanical stress

In addition to the main materials, auxiliary elements will be required:

fittings (hinges for doors);
lifting mechanism with a latch with a hinged door;
corners for hanging wall cabinets;
shelf holders;
dowels, pins, euro screws for fastening elements;
pens, etc.

From the tools you will need:

jigsaw;
iron;
drill;
screwdriver;
milling cutter;
stapler, etc.

After cutting the material, you can begin to assemble. It is carried out in the following sequence:

Drill holes in the sidewalls for the shelf supports. Connect them using jumpers that are horizontal.
Fix the roof and bottom.
Attach drawer guides to the body.
Mount the back and strengthen the back bar.
Fasten the false panel to the roof, sidewall and bottom.
Hang the doors, having previously strengthened the hinged hinges.

Corner wardrobes are extremely ergonomic: due to their beveled shape, they do not look bulky and at the same time are extremely spacious. Let's look at examples of how to make a corner cabinet with your own hands - what models can be implemented, what typical sizes, content can be, and how to calculate details using the example of ready-made drawings and diagrams.

Designs, drawings and photos of corner cabinets

Conventionally, corner cabinets can be divided into two categories: beveled trapezoidal and strictly rectangular in shape, with diagonally and perpendicularly located facades. In both cases, the cabinet can be:

Symmetrical and asymmetrical.
With separate mezzanines and without mezzanines.
Combined filling and allocated exclusively for shelves or hangers.
With inner or outer drawers.
With a different number of facades (one-door, two-door, three-door).
With execution in the form of showcases, open racks and designed for storing clothes.

We will consider only the schemes of wardrobe (dress) corner cabinets with our own hands.

Corner cabinets with perpendicular doors, most often, are an added composition of two ordinary cabinets of a slightly modified design. In rare cases, there may be a cast structure, especially if the front part is sliding, "accordion".

The advantage of trapezoidal corner cabinets is their large capacity and functionality. For example, the width of the outer sidewalls can be reduced to a minimum and this will not hurt to place coat hangers with bulky clothes - because the inner part expands towards the center.

Do-it-yourself corner cabinet: determine the size

Before you wonder how to make a corner cabinet with your own hands, you need to decide on the overall dimensions. Ergonomic forms attract many, but it is not always possible to achieve the desired if the space allocated for placement is too small.

The smallest dimensions of a do-it-yourself corner cabinet can be compared with the typical dimensions of a kitchen hinged module. It occupies 600x600mm from the corner. In order for the facade to be of sufficient width (400 mm minimum), the depth of the sidewalls (sidewalls) is set to no more than 300 mm. Naturally, with such dimensions, there can be no question of placing the barbell under the hangers. Only shelves or hooks for clothes.

For a corner wardrobe with a compartment for hanging clothes, the distance from the corner, at least on one side, must be at least 800mm. Then the depth of the stand can be laid as 450mm, which is quite enough for coat hangers with light clothing (for "men's" and outerwear, 500mm is required). Do-it-yourself corner cabinet schemes are approximately the same, in the ratio of the depth of the cabinets and the remaining space for the facade.

With asymmetric options, it is quite possible to realize what was conceived with dimensions from an angle of 850x650mm, 800x700mm, etc.

How to make a corner cabinet with your own hands using a drawing as an example

Consider a typical symmetrical model, with overall dimensions of 2100x900x900mm. Do-it-yourself drawing of a corner cabinet will look like this.

Along one of the sides, the width of the case allows the placement of shelves, they must be made taking into account the required space for hanging the rod - from 500 mm minimum. Drawers can be built into the section with shelves. The only nuance that should be taken into account in the future is the placement of hinges on the facade. The loop must not “get” into either the drawer or the shelf!

The height of the cabinet allows you to place two rods under clothes. A distance of 900-1100 mm is enough for short jackets, shirts, and the hem of long dresses can simply be “thrown” over the lower bar. Or you can make a shelf on top or bottom, under hats or shoes.

How to calculate the details of a corner cabinet with your own hands

After you have decided on the dimensions of the corner cabinet with your own hands, the internal content, you can begin to calculate the details. The easiest option is in the form of a table in the Excel office program.

We write down all the details in strict accordance with the texture of the picture, first the length, then the width. If you drive the formula into a tabular form by calculating the quadrature of each part, then you can sum it up and roughly estimate how much the cabinet will “pour out”.
At the same time, we designate the visible sides that will need to be rolled up with a single edge. Also, the formulas will help to pre-calculate the footage of the end tape.
I recommend highlighting irregularly shaped details so as not to lose sight of them (for example, as in the table above - in yellow). And also to clearly show along which side they will roll up the edge.
You can see how to calculate the size of the facades for a corner cabinet. Strictly speaking, the facade part can be made of another material - for example, MDF or solid wood.
Detailing fiberboard is considered a similar method.

Do-it-yourself corner cabinet cut cards

The calculated dimensions of parts from Excel are transferred to a special nesting program. Parts for which the direction of the pattern is not critical (for example, stiffeners, plinth, internal shelves) can be rotated to minimize waste. In our case, there is a reason to make the front part of a different material - the body of the corner cabinet with your own hands economically “lays down” on two sheets.

The cut can be ordered from a third-party organization along with PVC seaming. Typically, such services are provided by all firms trading chipboard. At home, rolling up PVC is quite laborious and it is unlikely that it will work accurately. You will have to be content with melamine tape, the only plus of which is cheapness. The table shows that 28.83 linear meters will be needed. But it is better to take with a margin, + 10-15%.

How to mark cabinet details for drilling

If you correctly mark and drill all the details on the corner cabinet with your own hands, then in the end it will assemble very simply, like a designer. The most convenient way to do this is in special furniture programs, for example, Basis Furniture Maker.

The principles are simple:

Furniture is assembled on Euroscrews (confirmations).
Details are drilled at the end and from the front side.
The distance from the edge of the front side part should be the same. For example, 50 mm. Or in the center.

After the fasteners are placed, we number the parts. If there are parts of the same size, but with a different mounting principle, we use additional markings (a, b, etc.).

In Basis Furniture Maker, you can get drilling specifications in this form.

But here you need to be careful, to clearly understand where the part of the corner cabinet has a “face” with your own hands, and where is the “wrong side”, along the sides rolled up by the edge. The program does not see this nuance, it arranges fasteners from left to right. And in the process of drilling, parts that need to be mirrored may come across. In principle, it is not difficult. Anyway, with drilling specifications, the whole process will go much faster.

How much does it cost to make a corner cabinet with your own hands?

With the correct drawing up of the drawings of the corner cabinet with your own hands, all the calculated stages, the risks of errors, which lead to inevitable additional expenses, are reduced to zero. If you make any furniture with your own hands, then it is always cheaper. Actually, nothing prevents you from predicting costs before the start of all work. Find out all the prices for materials, accessories and hardware in your city that will be required when making a cabinet with your own hands, and drive it into a simple Excel plate.

The most significant costs will be for the purchase of chipboard and cutting. We took a typical model - from changes up or down by 100-200 mm, the material consumption will not change significantly. It will also take approximately 2-3 sheets, depending on the number of shelves and fronts (whether they will be ordered separately or not).

Making a wardrobe with your own hands is easier than a table or chair, but somewhat more difficult than a stool or bedside table. If you fully imagine how these pieces of furniture are made, then you can take on the closet. There are 3 options for organizing work:

A simple, unpretentious closet in the utility room. It is preferable for beginners to start with it: there will be benefits, flaws are not in sight, and the acquired skills will be useful in the future;
Cabinet cabinet "the same as everyone else's" in living rooms, but with significantly, 2-2.5 times, lower cash costs. At the cost of their own labor and skill, of course;
At costs comparable or even less than for a conventional purchased wardrobe, it is possible to make a very solid and durable wardrobe, which are sold as extra or luxury.

Sliding wardrobes are especially popular now: they save a lot of living space, and fittings and door sliding mechanisms for them are affordable. Making a wardrobe with your own hands is more difficult than a hinged one, but still possible for a novice furniture maker. And, as will be discussed further, there is an opportunity to save a lot on fairly expensive door profiles.

A built-in wardrobe gives even more material savings, see fig. But it’s only worth taking it on unequivocally if the apartment has a finished niche or a solid floor is laid on the equalizer. Otherwise, floor leveling work will more than eat up all the savings. The ceiling may also have to be trimmed, but not so accurately and this work is easier.

In any housing there is also a restless corner in which only garbage is collected. It will usefully fill the corner cabinet. Structurally, it is more complicated than usual, and the savings in making it yourself will be less. But this will pay off with convenience, especially in small apartments: typical “corners” in them do not add much ergonomics, and a non-standard custom one will be expensive.

However, the main purpose of this article is not how to snatch here and bite there. There are plenty of guides for the manufacture and self-assembly of cabinets in Runet. Up to instructions like: "We take a drill with our hand ...". If not with teeth, then it would be necessary to clarify: which one - right or left? Because human hands are functionally different. However, the available publications are written quite conscientiously - each about a separate specific product. There are also reviews of a very general plan. But something like a summary of how to develop and make a cabinet for your own conditions and requests is not visible. And the closet is not a table or an armchair, it requires a lot of space and stands on it for a long time or forever. And besides, it is an aesthetically defining piece of furniture.

In this publication we will deal with how to design and assemble a wardrobe on our own specifically for your home; It is this approach that will give the greatest savings in both money and labor. Where the closet should be, how much space there is and what will be in it, you decide for yourself, here exact recommendations from outside are impossible. For the rest, so to speak, home cabinet building is carried out in stages as follows:

Determining the dimensions of the cabinet;
Choosing the type of construction based on your requests and available opportunities;
The choice of the type of doors - hinged, sliding (wardrobe) or folding;
The choice of material and the appropriate assembly technology for it;
The choice of ways to install the filling (shelves, drawers, bars for coat hangers);
cabinet design;
Preparing a place for a closet, if it is built-in;
Preparation of body parts;
Case assembly;
Making and hanging doors;
Manufacturing (acquisition) of filling modules;
Filling the closet.

Dimensions and layout

The general scheme of a conventional case cabinet is shown in fig. on right. Some of the modules, based on the available floor area and ceiling height, may not be, or it will be, say, not 2, but single-leaf. However, the dimensions of the cabinet within certain limits and the principles of its layout must be observed:

Depth transverse (width) - 450-650 mm. Less - the product will turn out to be unstable; more - uncomfortable.
The height of the chiffonier (dress compartment, right wardrobe in the figure) is 1550-1850 mm.
The height of the chest of drawers is 700-750 mm.
Width of drawers and shelves - 400-450 mm.
The depth of the boxes is 250-300 mm.
The distance between the shelves is 300-350 mm.
Vertical layout: drawers below, shelves above them, and niches above all.

The dimensions of drawers and shelves should be kept within the specified limits. At smaller sizes, the cabinet capacity drops sharply with the same overall dimensions, which complicates and increases the cost of the cabinet. With large boxes, it is difficult to operate and keep order in them.

Are mezzanines necessary?

Mezzanines add a lot to the complexity and cost of the cabinet. But to assemble a cabinet without mezzanines, you need at least 7 cm between its roof and ceiling, if you use special tools, and ordinary ones - from 12 cm. and 10-12 mm. Now let's estimate: a small, 1.6x0.6 m in plan, closet. Let's take 7 cm to the ceiling, this will come out a little over 67 cubic meters. dm. That is, the capacity of a pair of bedside tables or a children's playhouse, or cabinets for shoes, which are also needed in the house. In general, it is better not to be lazy and make a closet with mezzanines.

Design

The overall layout of the cabinet allows for many options for technical implementation; just look at the trade catalogs. In living rooms, as you know, most often they put wall cabinets, pos. 1 in fig. A classic wardrobe with a mirror is more suitable for the bedroom, pos. 2. In the nursery, study or bachelor odnushka - a wardrobe-pencil case, pos. 3. If the apartment has a shallow niche, there is a place for a built-in wardrobe, pos. 4. It is especially useful for household items in common areas, pos. 5: there is always a technician there, but the riser is changed, or at least the revision hatch in it is not opened every year or even every decade.

About walk-through cabinets

About corner cabinets, pos. 6 and 7, we will talk in more detail below, but for now we will linger on walk-through cabinets, pos. 8. In fact, a real walk-through closet is something like a walk-in wardrobe: the doors are front and back, and the contents are placed on the sides of the passage. Once, for the sake of saving space, they were made in the hallways, but with the advent of reliable and affordable sliding doors, they began to consider a wall cabinet with mezzanines above the door as a walk-through.

A walk-through closet will not only be appropriate in a long narrow room. It can be a key element in the layout of the house as a whole. Let's say you are sketching a future new building. And remember at the same time that not only construction costs, but also property tax and utility bills in the future depend on the size of the house in the plan. Accordingly, you also plan rooms for purely personal use - a kitchen, a bedroom, an office - according to the residual principle, as a result of which they exit in tunnels of an extremely small width for living rooms. This is where the walk-through closet will help out: it will give the room(s) the necessary comfort, and even, perhaps, it will be possible to fence off a dressing room, a closet or a small workshop; a closet deeper than 65 cm is not needed.

About corner cabinets

Cabinet fitting the outer corner, pos. 1 in Fig., is no different: these are 2 wall cabinets with a rack on the corner. The rack is designed and subsequently assembled last. Structurally, it is not connected to the side sections-wings, as well as the wings to each other.

With cabinets in the inner corner, the situation is different. If they are not single, then the corner section is designed and then assembled first of all, and the wings are already adapted in it, and the last one is the side stand, if any.

Triangular (not necessarily equilateral) cabinet in the corner, pos. 2, this is most often a simple utility locker in that very restless corner, in the bathroom or on the balcony. In a couple of constructions of this kind, we will get acquainted further.

In living rooms, L-shaped corner cabinets are most often placed, pos. 3, or five-wall cabinets, pos. 4. An L-shaped cabinet is a little more complicated than usual: there is no corner section as such, and the wings are also connected by an L-shaped rack in section, pos. 4a. However, the G-cabinet is not very convenient and aesthetic, and the ratio of its capacity to the occupied area is even less than that of a straight wall cabinet.

The five-wall wardrobe is the most capacious of all, especially since very voluminous things can be stored in the corner section, practically without taking up extra usable space. It is durable and stable, because. its frame is a rigid spatial structure, pos. 4a. The wings of a corner cabinet, without prejudice to its stability, can be of different depths, therefore, both in front and in area, it can take up one and a half times less space than a wall cabinet of the same capacity, pos. 4b. And if there is a five-wall wardrobe in the bedroom, then in only one corner there are 2 pencil cases with everything necessary in this case, pos. 4c.

However, a five-wall cabinet, firstly, is more laborious and requires more accurate cutting of parts, which is especially important when they are made independently. Secondly, when designing it (see below), you need to take into account some nuances regarding the doors of the central section.

Take a closer look at how the doors of any cabinet on hidden hinges open. When the door is half open, its rib adjacent to the hinge goes beyond the clearance by a few mm, and the plane of the fully open door again becomes flush with the side wall of the cabinet. If, instead of empty space, there is a wing facade nearby, then the door may rest against it and not open completely. To avoid this, the angle between the facades of the central section and the wing adjacent to the hinges of its door must be at least 135 degrees. Therefore, if you are designing a five-wall with wings of unequal depth, the corner door should open towards the deeper wing. And if the depth of the wings is the same, or a corner with 2 doors, then the corner section should be equilateral.

Finally, cabinets are occasionally made trapezoidal in plan, pos. 5. They are complex, material- and labor-intensive, and their capacity relative to the occupied area is record-breakingly small. Trapeze cabinets are made only when the passage behind the cabinet turns out to be unacceptably narrow and needs to be somehow expanded.

Note: a special case - radius cabinets, see fig. on right. They are not only original and modernly elegant, but also durable, roomy and less obstruct the aisles. But their design is not for everyone, and not even for any mid-level salon.

Plinth or legs?

How to put the cabinet - directly on the floor, on the plinth or thrust bearings (legs)? The floor is the easiest, but it must be perfectly even and durable, for example, a laminate laid on a flowing leveler on a substrate without a lag. The plinth is quite laborious and requires extra boards, but it gives the cabinet strength. The bottom of the cabinet on bearings, so that it does not sink, must be thick and durable, which can cost more than the material for the base. Therefore, it is recommended to make a cupboard on thrust bearings only in the kitchen, food pantry, etc. rooms where, as they said in the old days, worldly backbones - cockroaches, mice can start up. It is very difficult to survive them from under the basement.

What to be the doors

If the room where the closet goes is spacious enough, then the best option for its doors is swing doors. They are simpler, cheaper and more reliable than sliding ones. There is only one subtlety here: take hidden hinges not mortise, as in factory cabinets, but overhead ones, see fig. In production, they are less technologically advanced and cost-effective, because. a backing bar is required, but it is much stronger than mortise ones and it is not necessary to select holes in the side walls with a cutter.

However, not everyone lives in mansions, so sliding wardrobe doors are the most common. In general, they open less often than interior ones, drafts do not slam them, and only a cone with a lamb goes through the closet into the wall, which does not care what kind of doors there are and whether they exist at all. Therefore, cabinet doors can be made lighter, and the presence of a threshold does not affect the ease of use of the cabinet.

There are dozens of manufacturers of sliding door mechanisms, each producing several systems and trying to bring something new to the products so that they can push their elbows on the market. In the assembly instructions they write what exactly this product is good for, and as a rule, they do not lie. But comments, here, they say, our product is more suitable there, and if there, then it’s better to contact competitors, of course, don’t wait. Nevertheless, simple general rules for choosing a cabinet door mechanism can be drawn up, especially since there are no cardinal differences in quality between them.

First of all, for a cabinet door, you do not need to take expensive mechanisms with a free lower edge of the door sliding in a shoe or along a comb, see fig. These suspension systems are designed for heavy interior doors and require ceiling alignment. In addition, the bottom of the door leaf is worn out in the first case; in the second it is prone to breakdowns. Protective pads / gutters are sold optionally and the prices are, to put it mildly, strange. Other mechanisms are suitable for the cabinet, and here the choice depends on the door.

Just doors

If the doors are solid wood or chipboard, and the cabinet is on the plinth, then the frameless sliding mechanism is more suitable, because. it is cheaper and the installation of doors with it is easier. The cheapest of these is with an upper suspension (upper run, upper rail) pos. And in fig. Until recently, they were considered unreliable: from a push, the doors on the top course fell inward. But literally over the past 2-3 years, the top course has been seriously improved and the most flimsy of the current ones can withstand a blow to the facade from 45 kgf. This is stronger than the splash of a street hooligan or the push of the fifth point of an overweight, tipsy guest.

For the same doors in a built-in wardrobe, a system with a bottom support (bottom rail), pos. B. Here, first, it is better to take a system with separate guides (tracks), pos. B1. Twin tracks require installation precision that is difficult to achieve at home and are designed for boards of a strictly defined thickness. This makes cabinet design more difficult and material overruns can outweigh the savings from twin tracks.

Further, frameless doors at 4 points of force (tight) contact with the tracks are prone to jamming, so the carriages of the upper rollers (rollers) must be installed quadruple self-aligning, pos. B2. But not any for any door.

Threaded fasteners sit tighter in wood if they are wrapped along the grain rather than across them. In chipboard, on the contrary, self-tapping screws / confirmations are more reliably wrapped in a face, and not in an end. Therefore, wooden doors are hung on end rollers, as in pos. B2. If the doors are made of laminated chipboard, then the rollers must be taken on trunnions, i.e. L- or U-shaped brackets, like the lower rollers in pos. BUT.

Note: for a door on end rollers, a decorative overlay covering the rollers and the upper track is desirable. But in the hallway, it can be superfluous - the slot at the top will provide ventilation for the closet with wet outerwear.

And, finally, the lower rollers must be, firstly, height-adjustable, taking into account not only the unevenness of the floor, but also the drying out of the door leaf. Secondly, the lower rollers, especially if the cabinet goes to the hallway, are needed with a 2-coordinate support-thrust surface, i.e. with a flange, like a railway wheel, pos. B3, and steel rubberized; in extreme cases - propylene. Why? The flanged rollers themselves push the dirt out of the groove of the track.

glass-mirror

For a glass / mirror door, the only well-proven option in practice is a frame door with a bottom rail made of special profiles, pos. Q. How to assemble it is described in detail in the company's instructions and in RuNet, but something else needs to be paid attention to.

First, make sure that the profile you like is among the recommended ones in the mechanics specification. As a rule, there are no problems here, the production of accessories for glass doors is well developed.

Second, installation of a mirror / glass, pos. IN 1. It is necessary to use only and only glass of the recommended thickness with complete seals. It enters them rather tightly, but if it gets up easily, then it will not be difficult for him to fall out later. To facilitate the framing of glass (profiles are put on it), you need:

Work on a flat, smooth surface covered with a dense, clean cloth without scars / seams or newspapers in several layers. Pros frame mirrors on foam boards.
Order mirror/glass with rounding (licking) of ribs. You can “lick off” the ribs yourself with a richly moistened emery bar, after first running a wet cloth along the edge of the glass. It is not necessary to rub until a visible chamfer appears; it is enough to “shirk” 2-3 times with light pressure so that the rib does not bite the seal.
Before installing the profile, run along the edges of the glass with a clean cloth lightly dampened with any gel dish detergent. Soapy solution is somewhat worse, it dries quickly.
It is necessary to upset (push) the profile onto the glass, tapping it evenly along the length with a rubber mallet. To shove, as they say, resting on the navel, is unacceptable.

Third, the installation and finishing of the upper rollers (“Asymmetric roller” in the figure). That the asymmetry should be on the canvas in one direction, and for the outer and inner wings in different directions, is understandable. But, pay attention to the inset at the top right: the same screw holds both the frame sections and the roller. Moreover, the screw is self-tapping, it is wrapped once. Assembling the frame “on empty” without a mirror, and reassembling it after fitting, is the worst mistake of amateurs. That's why:

The top assembly screws are initially underturned by 3-4 mm.
The mounting whiskers of the rollers are inserted under the screw heads and the screws are tightened tightly, but not tight: if the roller is pulled out with force, it should “creep out” from under the screw.
They put the door, check the course, adjust the lower rollers.
In place, the screws of the upper rollers are tightened to failure.

glass tree

See what's on the left in Fig. And on the right - how it was done. Not bad, right? This door has not been tested on a suspension, but judging by what it has endured over more than 27 years of operation, it will withstand. With acrylic glass, which was then a rare expensive curiosity, it will withstand exactly. The depth of the groove under the glass is from 3 of its thickness.

The secret, firstly, is in aquarium silicone. It is much more expensive than a construction one, but 20 ml was more than enough for a couple of doors. But its strength is simply monstrous. Take a look at least at a 200-liter aquarium and imagine what kind of pressure there is from the inside. And the glass is glued just to the end. Secondly, here the long edges of the glass are securely covered. Breaking glass with a direct blow is not so easy.

Note: before mounting the cabinet doors, of course, it is necessary to check and set the squareness of the opening. It is inconvenient to use a tape measure, because this is not a cast-off of the foundation that is open on all sides. A pair of slats with pointed ends, fastened with rubber bands, will help out, see fig. At the first measurement, they make a risk with a pencil (pos. 1), and the divergence of its halves on the second will accurately show the difference in the diagonals (pos. 2).

Finally, at pos. G - a wardrobe with book doors. The bottom line is that the area withdrawn for opening the doors, according to the totality of ergonomic indicators, depends on the removal of the open door non-linearly. Therefore, a book door will take up only 1/4 of the floor area compared to a swing door of the same width, and its fittings are cheaper than for a sliding door, and never stick.

Material

What is the closet made of? There are 3 options: chipboard, solid wood (ready-made furniture panels) and measured lumber, i.e. just boards. Let's compare them in terms of cost, complexity and work, strength, durability and aesthetics. We take into account that the overall strength of wood is less than laminated chipboard, so we take the thickness of wooden parts not 16, but from 24 mm, and unplaned blanks - from 30 mm; 3 mm from each plate will go to planing.

chipboard

About edges

The details of the cabinet made of laminated chipboard need to be trimmed (edging). Since they do not crawl along their edges with elbows, cabinets are edged with a flat melamine self-adhesive edge, 2 mm front edges and 0.4 mm invisible, see fig. on right. Melamine is a heat-resistant material, and you can hem it at home with a hot iron through a clean, thin cloth or, better, fluoroplastic film. But first you need to find out what will cost less: edging along with cutting in a furniture company or an independent edge purchased at retail in small quantities.

Payment

"Lives" laminated chipboard up to 25-30 years. Then the binder begins to collapse, swell, and the ends of the parts take on the appearance of something like that in Fig. left. A sheet of laminated chipboard 2750x1850x16 mm (5 sq. M and 0.08 cubic meters) of the 1st grade glossy will cost from 4000 rubles; 2 sheets are needed for a 2-door cabinet. Chipboard textured without gloss of the 2nd grade can be found from 1100 rubles / sheet, but its phenol emission class will be from E2, which is unacceptable for residential premises.

Cutting sheets according to the drawing will cost about 500 rubles, and about 1000 more for edging parts. We do not count the fittings, they are the same for any cabinet. Total on chipboard for a closet for 20 years “like everyone else”, about 9500 rubles. Let's add another 200 (this is very divine) for confirmations with stubs, because for chipboard, this is the only acceptable option for assemblies, see below. There are about 10 thousand in total.

array

Ready-made furniture panels will need the same 5 square meters. m, because they are produced in planed thickness from 18 mm. Approximate prices for a square shield 600 mm wide:

Knotty pine 28 mm (from which, after varnishing with tinted varnish, very beautiful furniture is obtained) - approx. 1850 rub/sq. m, i.e. OK. 9250 rub. on the closet.

Straight-layer pine - 1950 rubles / sq. m and 9750 rubles. respectively.

Oak of the same dimensions with a thickness of 20 mm (perhaps, it is durable) - 7500 rubles / sq. m and 37,500 rubles. resp.

Fasteners will take up to 200 rubles, it is wooden, see below. Still ok. 1500 rub. - on varnish and glue. And the same amount as for chipboard - for cutting, because. The material is expensive and hard to learn from.

It can already be concluded that a do-it-yourself cabinet from an array should only be made from pine: an array of larch and birch is not much cheaper than oak, and beech, ash, walnut and maple are more expensive. However, solid pine cabinets also last 100-200 years or more.

Board

Edged boards on the cabinet will go approximately (30/16) x0.08 \u003d 0.15 cubic meters. m. Let's give another margin for amateur processing and take 0.25 cubic meters. m. Pine will cost approx. 5000 rub./cu. m; oak and beech - approx. 24,000 rubles/cubic meters m. on the wardrobe - approx. 1250 and 6000 rubles. respectively; on fasteners, varnish and glue - as before. case.

There is another argument in favor of natural wood. Take a look at fig. It is possible to make such doors from laminated chipboard and self-adhesive only in a thermal vacuum chamber, i.e. in production. And it’s difficult from wood, but it’s possible at home, using a hand router with a shaped cutter, there is an emphasis on it. Curves are derived by applying a template to the corresponding edge of the workpiece. You can also practice cutting / simple carving by buying an extra board, not ruinous. To develop working skills, cheap pine or any wooden trimmings will go.

However, a homemade cabinet made of planks is long and difficult to make. First, the purchased lumber must be kept outdoors under a canopy from autumn to summer. It will be a complete analogue of industrial preparation by steaming up to 100% humidity, followed by drying with superheated steam. Next, the boards will need to be dried in a warm, dry room again until autumn: the cabinet is not a stool, the moisture content of the wood is needed up to 6%.

Then the boards will need to be rallied to the boards, like a dining table top, using a homemade rim. They rally on a smooth fugue, but not plywood, but of the same tree, or on dowels, see below.

Note: boards for furniture must be purchased absolutely benign, without the slightest trace of rot and mold. Boards bleached with wood restorers are not suitable.

Subtotal by material

In general, if you want to make at least some kind of closet in a couple of weekends, until you have enough money for good purchased furniture, then the uncontested option is chipboard on confirmations. If you intend to pass on the memory of yourself to your children and grandchildren in the form of home-made furniture (which by that time may become valuable antiques), then you should also consider the option of a wooden cabinet. Moreover, a plank made of precious wood will cost no more than a homemade hastily made from chipboard.

Connections

How to connect cabinet parts? Eccentrics, pos. 1 in Fig., we sweep aside immediately. These are connections of inexpensive quick-assembly/collapsible furniture; simply - consumer goods: brought-blinded / inserted-twisted-money took-washed away.

Thread profile and head configuration of confirmations, pos. 2, specially designed for chipboard; the tree on confirmations keeps worse, and the chipboard on the “tree on tree” joints, see below, is generally very bad. Just keep in mind that, in addition to furniture confirms with a hexagon head, there are plumbing, for plastic, with a cross slot. They are not interchangeable!

Under confirmations you need a special drill, below at pos. 2, for each standard size of these hardware - its own. Holes for confirmations must be drilled along the conductor, pos. 3, otherwise the probability of splitting one of the boards during assembly is very high. Road conductor, for one-time work it is better to rent it.

It is also desirable to drill holes in the dowel connection along the conductor, pos. 4, this is the best way to assemble wood furniture. The fact is that the lignin of dowels and boards gradually, as it were, is welded into a single mass, and the connection on the dowels gains strength over time. Furniture restorers are well aware of this phenomenon.

Note: if the furniture is of a kind that can immediately experience extreme loads (say, a bed), then the dowels are placed with wedging. But we will leave the description of this technology until an appropriate occasion.

Ready-made dowels and sticks-blanks for them of different sizes are on sale and are inexpensive. You need to take them of the same kind as the boards to be joined, but harder: for pine - larch dowels, for hardwood furniture - oak. Oak is harvested on oak dowels.

Also, a wide range of dowels (lamellas) are sold for rallying boards from boards, pos. 5. The rules for choosing keys are the same as for dowels. As for the box connection pos. 6, then you need to learn how to make it if you have conceived a real wooden cabinet for centuries. In other cases, you can do it easier, see below about filling, especially since the boxes are like removable modules, and you can then redo it.

About drywall cabinets

Drywall (GKL) is widely used in construction. But this is a finishing material, not a structural one. Therefore, thinking about the GKL closet, keep in mind:

It will require a complex frame of special C- and U-profiles, pos. 1 in the fig., and a lot of fasteners.

This cabinet cannot be moved.

To hang doors, you will have to make a wooden frame on the facade, because. in the profiles, the hinges do not hold and the entire frame immediately leads from the use of the doors.

Drywall is easily scratched and crumbled, so heavy, hard and sharp objects should not be placed on the shelves.

In fact, a drywall cabinet is used in 2 cases. The first is a radius rack in a room with curved walls, pos. 2, because it is quite possible to make parts bent in one plane from gypsum boards at home. What, however, cannot be said about radius doors, without which a closet is not a closet.

The second is a simple corner cabinet for household items, pos. 3. For this, GKL trimmings left over from the suspended ceiling, etc., will also fit. With the indicated dimensions, a complex frame is not needed, but if there are doors, then the facade frame is still required.

Filling

boxes

The “real” drawer of the cabinet is arranged, as in the bedside table, see Fig., Only the dimensions are different. But at first, in order not to delay the work, it is better to assemble the boxes of drawers on confirmations from chipboard, simple polished, without texture, and paint. The decorative facade can then be rearranged to the “correct” box of the same size. Or maybe leave it as it is: a thick, durable bottom will allow the use of lower guides with a high bearing capacity.

The cabinet drawers are always used more intensively and loaded more than in the nightstand; they often put something / look for something in the depths. Therefore, putting them on homemade wooden rails is not worth it. By the way, the first attempts to make full extension guides for cabinet drawers date back to the 15th century. That's how jamming and distortions got furniture makers even then.

Drawer guides are divided into bottom and side, depending on the method of attachment to the box. But this division is very conditional, because. both of them ultimately hold on to the walls / partitions of the cabinet, which determines the strength of the suspension as a whole. When choosing guides, more attention should be paid to the technological gaps on the sides and between the boxes: the space “eaten” by them significantly affects the capacity and cost of the product.

For the drawers of the kitchen cabinet, which, however, needs a separate discussion, you need the lower guides of the metabox type or their analogues. The weakest of them are kept at full take-out from 20 kg, and there are models for 50-70, at least throw a bag of potatoes into a box. But metaboxes are by no means cheap, but by default they are equipped with closers, i.e. the extended box itself completely calls back from a light push by hand.

For ordinary drawers, the usual lower roller guides will fit, as, say, for the keyboard board of a computer desk, at the top in fig. Their closer works quite rough and a heavy box doesn't always fully close, but they are cheap and hold up to 12-15 kg at full extension, including the weight of the box.

Boxes for books, tools, etc. it is better to put on Kulkov's ball guides, below in the same place. They are relatively inexpensive, practically eternal (there are no plastic parts), do not require technical gaps at the top and bottom, and hold up to 20 kg at full extension. There is only one drawback: there is no closer.

Shelves

You can’t say much about the shelves: a board is like a board. Thickness from 16 mm for laminated chipboard, from 24 mm for pine, from 18 mm for oak. Chipboard is closed “on the face” with a 2 mm edge, and on the sides and back - 0.4 mm, which must be taken into account when designing. It is not necessary to neglect the edging so that the board does not crumble and dust. But, depending on the general tone of the finish, instead of edging, you can take polished chipboard, prime and paint.

There are also only 3 tricks in the shelf holders. First, do not take metal from aluminum-magnesium alloy, but plastic from PVC or polyethylene. The first is fragile, the second is weak. The second - take it with self-tapping screws. Inserts on smooth pins will break out of their sockets over time. And the third - for an unpretentious utility cabinet, very strong and reliable shelf holders are obtained from plinth scraps, see fig.

Barbell

Now in vogue so-called. end bars for hangers, see fig. But, frankly, they are for inveterate neat people: summer blouses are here, shirts are there, and pants-skirts are there and nowhere else. The end rods do not increase the capacity of the cabinet, only it is worse to see where it hangs. And take any ordinary longitudinal rods to your taste and pocket, there are no unusable ones for sale.

Project

Self-designing a cabinet and furniture in general these days is not very difficult: there are convenient computer programs. Of the Russian speakers, PRO100 and Bazis-Mebelshchik are popular in free distribution. Both are quite powerful and functional, but the first is more suitable for the virtual arrangement of furniture in the interior, and the second for the detailed design of individual products.

Both softwares come with training videos, they are available in RuNet and separately. But, as with any new software, general ambiguities can also arise from experienced users. Namely: where to start, how to go where and where to come. So far, no one has come up with a uniquely linear system of bookmarks with tools / options. And this is hardly possible for creatures with an intelligence higher than that of a fire pump. For Bazis-Mebelshchik, the general cabinet design instruction looks like this:

We enter the overall dimensions of the cabinet according to measurements on site, this is the most crucial stage;

We set the dimensions of the plinth, bottom and roof;

We assemble the back wall (by default, fiberboard) with stiffeners (sideboards, by default, chipboard);

We assemble internal partitions, vertical and horizontal, according to the division of the cabinet into sections. What and how much - you decide, not the program;

We do box filling. Shelves, rods, baskets Bazis-Mebelshchik does not automatically put, because. they are mounted in a finished cabinet in place;

We enter the dimensions of the cabinet doors, but they need to be designed separately;

Optionally add mezzanines and open side racks;

We carry the edges and fittings in places;

We send drawings and specifications for printing with the exact dimensions of parts: they are exactly what we need in order to purchase, order, saw, drill, cut.

Assembly

The manufacture of individual modules was discussed above in the course of the presentation, so let's move on to how to put it all together. The assembly of a cabinet from laminated chipboard on confirmations is technologically not difficult and is carried out in the following order:

In place they try on the bottom and sidewalls: was there an error when measuring the dimensions, pos. 1 in the figure;

They assemble the basement box and install internal partitions, because. they are fastened through the bottom, pos. 2;

In place (carry the workpiece carefully!) Place the sidewalls so that the base fits exactly on the floor, pos. 3;

They put up a roof;

The cabinet is moved aside, it is already strong enough, and the back wall is sewn up;

Slide the cabinet into place and mount the filling;

They take out boxes, shelves, a barbell (if it is in pockets, and not fixed tightly), baskets, etc.;

Install doors;

Collect and put mezzanines with racks, if any.

The assembly of a wooden cabinet on dowels is different in that the internal partitions are placed after the sidewalls, because. otherwise, they may break when moving the workpiece. And also by the fact that there is enough technical stock under the ceiling for a cabinet without mezzanines: dowel protrusion + roof thickness + (10-12) mm.

Special cases

The first is the hallway. A wardrobe is needed in it, firstly, it is small in width, English halls are not in use with us. It is also desirable to combine it with a hanger, then you will need a sliding single-door wardrobe, see fig. on the right, because clothes will sometimes be hung in it damp and in a deaf box it will soak. It also requires more shelves for gloves, hats, scarves, summer clothes, and, of course, shoes. But there may be no boxes at all.

Schemes of cabinets in the hallway, hinged and sliding, are shown in fig. The first is designed for a family of 2-3 people; the second is a bachelor. The depth of the first is determined based on the minimum allowable passage width of 900 mm. If you want to make it sliding, you need to add 170-220 mm to it, depending on the chosen door suspension system.

The second is a balcony. It’s not worth putting a closet there, arranged in a room-like way: it will block a lot of light and dust collectors will form, see fig. On the balcony you need a cabinet mainly from horizontal modules, or an unequal corner cabinet.

A drawing of a cabinet, suitable for extremely narrow Khrushchev balconies, is shown on the left in the figure, and a corner one on the right in the same place. The latter still will not block the evacuation hatch, because. is placed in the gap between the fire escape and the wall, which otherwise wastes space to no avail.

Finally

Let's hope that this publication at least clarified to you in detail how to make a cabinet yourself. And as an example of the general progress of work on the manufacture of a wardrobe, we offer a video. Otherwise - good luck, patience, ingenuity, accuracy!

Video: do-it-yourself wardrobe assembly