What to make a floor screed in the apartment. Do-it-yourself floor screed in an apartment: which one is better

A floor screed in an apartment is necessary when it is required to make the coating even, without drops and slopes. This approach will increase the strength of the surface. The possibility of finishing doorways, installing windows depends on the quality of work - all components must be on the same level.

Why else do you need a floor screed? With the help of such events, it is easy to insulate the room, reduce the impact of noise, and provide waterproofing. The correct design will allow you to disguise engineering communications: cable, pipes or other elements.

The difference in the height of the interior space may turn out to be insignificant - up to 1 cm, or very unpleasantly surprised: some newcomers on the forums say that the difference in values over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe premises reaches 10 cm.

In order for the floor coverings to please for a long time, and the furniture to be installed without distortions, it is necessary to form the most even bottom. Experts say: before starting finishing activities, it is reasonable to watch videos, get profile information from articles or chat on the Web with like-minded people who will tell you how to properly make a floor screed in different rooms of the apartment, which one is better under specific circumstances, what determines the final choice.

For large-scale spaces, it is reasonable to invite professionals or, using the advice of experienced ones, do the finishing yourself. The screed for the floor of the apartment is performed according to the general algorithm. There may be nuances when choosing different materials.

Masters offer to combine several techniques, which is justified with a significant curvature of the base. Any composition needs to be completely dried before laying the final coating.

Types of floor screed

Today, the following types of floor screeds are relevant:

Wet. The solution is kneaded in a large amount of water, dries for a long time. Reinforcement is often used, so this type of screed is suitable if an increased load is expected.
Semi-dry. This variety remains the most popular. A small amount of moisture and the presence of a hardener speed up the drying process. The composition is quite suitable for a moderate load of the residential sector.
Dry. Universal way for an apartment. Initial leveling is carried out by different types of bulk eco-friendly mixtures. The floor is formed from drywall, plywood.
Self-leveling or self-leveling, which is distributed evenly over the surface.

Each of the modifications has pros and cons: the wet method remains the most durable, but laborious. Semi-dry look - easier to perform, will allow you to complete finishing activities faster.

Plywood or GVL are quickly mounted, but are suitable for ordinary housing, and with great traffic they will be unstable. Self-levelling compounds are ideal for rooms with minor surface imperfections.

Any of the named varieties for the floor in the apartment is suitable for installation with different initial data. For example, for a common corridor, if the family is numerous, you can use a semi-dry option, and in the bedroom you can limit yourself to a practical bulk one.

Cement strainer

Cement-based mixtures can have different properties, since the proportions of the constituents can be varied. Concrete floor screed in the apartment can be prepared independently. Experts recommend adhering to the following compound formulation:

Project mortar 100, and cement "300"? Then you need a part of cement and three - sand.
"Dvuhsotka" - respectively 2 to 1.

Calculating the total is easy. With 5 cm in height and 20 m 2 of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, you will need: 0.5 * 20 \u003d 10 m 3 of the finished concrete mix. A plasticizer (you can take liquid soap) will add viscosity to the filling.

Nuance: in the process of kneading, the volume decreases. From 1 m 3 of dry raw materials, no more than 0.75 m 3 of solution will be obtained.

For apartment repairs, only fine aggregate is used: sifted sand. A reasonable step is to make a floor screed with expanded clay. Concrete is mixed with light practical material. This method is rational when it is worth raising the surface to a considerable height. This finish is useful when it is necessary to reduce the weight of traditional cement or concrete.

Dry floor screed

A semi-dry floor screed in an apartment is used as a simple main surface or for arranging warm communications. The use of such a solution allows you to start further work 2-4 days after its laying. The addition of fiberglass will enhance the insulating properties of the coating, making it more stable.

Doubt what kind of screed is needed, dry or wet? If an average load is expected and the repair time is short, then the option using an almost dry solution will be more attractive.

A dry screed can be done in one day and the top coat is easy to install with no time loss. The base slab is covered with a dry mixture, aligned with the beacons. Then the profile guides are set, on which the cut sheets of drywall (plywood) are attached. The gap between the wall and the floor is filled with mounting foam.

Stages of work

The process of leveling the floor and forming the screed is divided into standard steps. They differ depending on the method used, but the schematic outline remains the same:

First, the initial preparation of the rough surface is done.
Thermal, hydro, sound insulation is carried out.
It is produced, if planned, reinforcement or additional equipment is installed.
Filling in progress.

The source material for the floor screed in the apartment determines the necessary set of tools. Irreplaceable helpers are traditional lighthouses. To level the dry backfill, you will need rails, a profile, fasteners, a screwdriver, a jigsaw for cutting.

A self-levelling compound will require a roller to disperse air bubbles. Wet and semi-dry options are the most voluminous, here they select: a level, a trowel, a spatula, a drill, a mixer for kneading, containers of different sizes, a rule.

Foundation preparation

If repairs are made in the secondary housing market, then it is necessary to remove the old floor screed. Otherwise, the new base may reveal hidden defects in the existing coating.

Then you should carefully remove dust, dirt, fine particles, repair cracks between the ceilings, recesses on the plane. After the solution dries, the plate is polished with a brush or machine, all excess is removed. The surface needs to be thoroughly vacuumed.

fill

First make a solution. Cement, sand, water are mixed proportionally (for example, 3:1:0.5). Dry sand and cement are stirred, carefully rubbing the particles. Then the liquid is gradually poured in. For greater plasticity, you can add liquid soap or dishwashing detergent. If a ready-made version was purchased, then it is diluted according to the instructions.

Masters know how to properly pour the composition throughout the room and recommend that the resulting mixture be evenly distributed over the floor. It is better to use beacons as guides. If somewhere the solution turned out to be small and depressions formed, then the material is thrown up and leveled again.

Make sure that there are no air pockets left, and the composition fills the entire space.

Criterion: if the solution lies tightly and qualitatively on the slab, then “cement milk” will appear on the surface.

After partial hardening, the canvas can be further sanded with a grater. With the semi-dry method, the surface is treated when setting becomes apparent.

Do-it-yourself screed

Professionals give advice to craftsmen who decide to make a floor screed with their own hands:

When using the wet and semi-dry method, the usual liquid household solutions (soap, degreaser) can be replaced with PVA glue.
Installation by wet methods should be performed in one session. The batch storage time is up to 2 hours.
The calculation of the drying period depends on the thickness of the layer: 1 week is suggested for 1 cm of height.
Semi-dry application dries up to 2 weeks (4-5 days is enough for a thin layer), but after 10-12 hours after laying it can be walked on in flat shoes.

When installing a dry floor in an apartment with your own hands, it should be remembered that the design is less durable, but is able to withstand household loads. As a primary backfill, it is reasonable to purchase expanded clay, perlite, environmentally friendly compositions with a fine fraction. A practical top cover is gypsum-fiber sheets, under which layers of insulation can be laid. It is easy to perform such manipulations yourself in 2-3 days.

A semi-dry floor screed is kneaded hard-boiled with your own hands: a lump clenched in a fist should not crack or crumble. It is not necessary to get the laid beacons from the thickness. With this method, you can save on a self-leveling finish layer: the floor without it will come out smooth and flawless. This type among professionals is considered the most popular when decorating apartments, since it reduces the hardening time, remains practical, stable.

How to make a floor screed - you will find the answer to a similar question on this page. We will tell and show how to prepare the floor, choose the solution and do all the work on the formation of the screed with your own hands. Photo and video materials will make the article more visual.

Screed is the most effective way to create a solid, even surface for, laminate, tiles.

There are several types of screed, the most commonly used:

Screed on lighthouses it is also called solid or draft - the necessary space with a solution with its alignment with a tool;
self leveling- the area is filled with liquid consistency compositions, which, under their own weight, create a flat surface.

Each type has its own implementation technology.

Floor surface preparation

It is a mandatory step for both beacon screeds and self-levelling. It is performed almost the same for both varieties.

The screed is made on a solid foundation. They can be concrete slabs or well-compacted slag.

The old screed must be removed with a puncher (in the case of a rough fill). The joints of the plates are smeared with mortar. It serves as an excellent material for this, as it provides waterproofing. The base for the screed is cleaned of debris and dust.

If the screed is placed on wooden floor, then it is desirable to cover it with sheets of plywood or so that there are as few gaps as possible.

Only after carrying out the preparatory work, you can proceed to the main work.

Lighthouse screed technology

Beacons are necessary to create a flat surface of the screed, they are also called guides. For this, a plasterboard profile of 27x28 mm is most often used. In order to strengthen their rigidity, you can put them one into one.

Installation of beacons

First of all, it is necessary to determine the zero level. This is the upper bound of the screed. It is needed to install beacons at the same level, regardless of the irregularities of the base.

The zero level is a strip along the perimeter of the room above the level of the base, which is drawn with chalk or beaten off with a special construction thread. Displayed using a bubble or laser level.

Note. Both types of levels have the same accuracy. At the same time, it is much more convenient to work with a laser. On the beam, you can immediately beat off the zero level along the entire length of the wall. Using the bubble variety is a more labor intensive process that takes more time as needed. At the same time, draw separate sections of the wall. The laser level is more expensive.

Installing rail supports

After determining the zero level, you can begin to install supports for the guides. For this, plastic chopsticks with self-tapping screws are perfect. Supports are installed in rows along the walls from the far corners of the room to the exit.

The distance between them should be 15-20 cm, but more is possible, it all depends on the length of the rule with which the solution will be leveled. It should be no less than the distance between the guides. In the process of work, it will become clear how to do everything right. You can also watch the video for clarity.

Using a perforator, holes are made in the base where the supports are placed. Self-tapping screws should be at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, on the same level as the line drawn on the wall. Checking is carried out using a bubble or laser level.

In the case when the base for the screed is fragile, you can set the beacons with slides of mortar.

After installing the beacons, guides are placed on them with the ribs down. They should slide freely over the screws, touching the surface with all the supports in the row. Now you can prepare the solution.

Selection and preparation of the solution

The construction market today offers a huge number of screed mixtures. Most of them are already ready-made formulations, including all the necessary additives. They just need to be brought to the desired consistency with water. It is convenient and practical, but the cost of such mixtures is higher than that of ordinary cement. This leads to high financial costs, and the larger the screed layer, the more money you have to spend.

The best solution in this case would be a cement-sand mortar. It is the most practical and versatile. When dried, it creates a durable surface resistant to mechanical damage and moisture. And much cheaper than ready mixes.

The thickness of the cement-sand mortar screed must be at least 3 cm. Otherwise, the screed structure may crack when dried.

Do not confuse the brand of cement and the finished solution. The brand of mortar is formed due to the proportion of cement and sand.

For example, with a ratio of 1 to 3 cement and sand, you get 150th solution provided that the cement will be the 400th, and the ratio of 1 to 1 with the same brand of cement will give the 300th solution.

The preparation of the screed mortar begins by mixing the components. This must be done carefully with a spatula or by hand. To improve the properties of the solution, you can use a plasticizer. It is added to the water prepared for mixing the solution. The required amount is 200 g. For 50 kg of cement. Taking into account the water consumption of 22 liters per bag.

It is necessary to add mixed sand with cement to water, and not vice versa. This avoids the formation of lumps that are difficult to break and reduce the quality of the solution.

When adding a cement-sand mixture to water, it is necessary to stir the resulting solution with a spatula or other tool. As a result, it should turn out thick. Checking the consistency is checked by putting a slide of mortar on a spatula and placing it in a vertical position relative to the floor. It should stay on the spatula.

Solution consumption

It comes from the calculation of the area of the screed. Let's say it will be 20 m. After that, you need to calculate the volume. To do this, you need to multiply the area by the height of the screed.

For example, it will be 5 cm: 20 m x0.05 m = 1 m (centimeters are converted to meters).

If the ratio of cement to sand is 1:4, then it is necessary for 0.8 m of sand and 0.2 m of cement.

In one bag 50 kg about 0.038 m3. But it is recommended to take an indicator of 0.03 m when calculating, since the volume of the starting material decreases when the solution is mixed.

Theoretical calculations are a very conditional indicator. Practice shows that it is necessary to add another fifth of them to the resulting data.

Mortar laying

It is carried out by gradually filling the space from the base to the upper plane of the guides. It is immediately necessary to level the solution with the rule away from the walls towards the exit. This is done in such a way that the surface of the guides remains visible. After the solution dries, they must be removed, and the cavities formed after them should be filled with a solution and leveled.

You can see more about the process of pouring the screed in a private house in the video.

Drying time

Depends on many different factors such as:

Type of mortar used for screed;
Screed thickness;
Air temperature and humidity in the room;
Drafts, direct sunlight on the screed.

It should be noted right away that the cement-sand mortar dries for a very long time. On average, a 4 cm thick screed dries out within a week - 7 days. Each centimeter on top adds another week. This is provided that the temperature in the room is maintained. from +20º to + 25º C and the humidity will be 65%. Accordingly, with a change in these indicators, the drying time changes.

These are data to be guided by, but they are not absolutely accurate. To obtain accurate indicators, there are special measuring instruments. But they are quite expensive and are used by specialists. It is not advisable to buy a device for monitoring one screed.

Many confuse the setting of the solution with its complete drying. In the first case, the structure becomes monolithic and durable, you can walk on it, but moisture remains in the solution and it is impossible to lay a finishing coating on the screed. Drying is considered to be complete removal, evaporation of moisture, only after that you can continue to work.

Screed with self-leveling compounds

Many experts do not consider this a screed at all. The reason is the small indicators of the minimum and maximum allowable layer from 0.5 to 1 cm. It is also believed that self-leveling mixtures are a finishing material in an apartment after a rough screed, which was discussed above.

Be that as it may, such a technology exists, it is associated with solutions and is carried out according to a similar technology with a screed on beacons, only a little easier.

Surface preparation

Here, in addition to the classical one described at the beginning, there is the so-called protective or separating one. This is when it is necessary to make the layer of self-levelling compound independent of the substrate. To do this, before pouring, it is necessary to lay polyethylene on the base, and lay a damper tape near the walls.

Attention! If the layer of the finishing equalizer is independent, its thickness can reach 20 - 30 mm.

When pouring a self-levelling mixture onto a rough screed, some experts recommend using a special primer. Others are opposed to its use. But practice shows that it is still better to use it and cover the surface to be filled before starting work.

Technological process

The screed with a self-leveling mixture is carried out in the same technological sequence as the draft, but only in a simplified version. You will not need to install beacons, and work with guides. You just need to define the zero level. This is done in the same way as with the screed on the beacons. A line is marked or beaten off on the wall. This is much easier to do with a laser level. After that, you can start preparing the mixture and start pouring.

Material calculation

Here, too, things are a bit simpler. To determine the amount of self-levelling compound required, simply calculate the volume to be poured. Manufacturers of mixtures indicate their consumption on the packaging, so the calculation is much easier to carry out. This is also facilitated by the fact that the mixtures are ready to use, they do not need to be mixed with sand or other additives. It is enough to mix with water and bring to the desired consistency..

It is difficult to talk about more or less exact figures in terms of material consumption, since today a huge number of manufacturers offer their products on the construction market - self-leveling mixtures and their consumption rates differ.

Solution preparation

It should be liquid and easy to pour out of the container in which it was kneaded. The average water consumption when diluting the self-leveling mixture is 6 liters per 25 kg. It is better to bring to a homogeneous liquid mass with a construction mixer.

Implementation of works

The finished solution must be evenly poured over the surface until its level reaches the mark on the wall. At the same time, nothing needs to be leveled, the mixture itself will level out under the influence of gravity and its own weight. Filling is necessary from the far corners to the exit. The result should be a mirror surface.

The self-leveling floor dries, so the screed is also called self-leveling mixtures under the same optimal conditions from + 20º to 25º C at a humidity of 65% for about 3 days.

Reading time ≈ 10 minutes

If you decide to renovate your old floor, you will have to deal with preparation and. These processes include without fail a concrete screed of the floor surface. After all, linoleum, laminate, carpet or parquet must be laid only on a prepared flat surface. We will take a closer look at how to make a floor screed yourself, and also get acquainted with the advice of professionals.

What is a floor screed? It is a rough concrete floor covering, a professional floor pouring, and also the most versatile way to level the surface. In other words, this is an intermediate layer between the finishing floor and the base for laying the subsequent decorative layer. After a concrete screed, flooring of any floor covering is possible. You also have the option of installing underfloor heating as well as sound and waterproofing. The floor screed technology is rather complicated, and the process is time-consuming. However, subject to clear instructions and patience, a beginner will cope with the work.

Why do you need a concrete screed:

Perfect surface leveling.
Strength and rigidity of the future flooring.
Giving the floor the necessary slope.
Correction of irregularities on the floor.
Possibility to hide engineering communications.
In technical premises it is a finishing coating.

Types of floor screeds

According to the method of adhesion, its composition and method of flooring, there are various types of floor screeds. Each of them is suitable for a specific floor covering and differs in functionality. How to make a screed with your own hands, consider in the video below.

According to the method of engagement

By installation method

According to the composition of the material

According to its purpose

Screed leveling type. It is used to solve such problems as: eliminating bumps and hills, correcting the slope of the floor, giving the surface the desired height.
Leveling and heat-insulating type. In addition to leveling tasks, it is able to solve the problems of installing thermal insulation in a room. Do-it-yourself floor screed with thermal insulation is shown in this video.

It is impossible to say which type of screed is better. When choosing, you should always calculate the load on the floor during operation, the level of humidity and temperature in the room, as well as indications for the environmental friendliness of the materials used.

Experts also advise taking into account the following nuances:

If the house does not have an overlap on the floor of the first floor, you will have to lay a dense and massive screed. For this, an embankment of crushed stone or expanded clay up to 10 centimeters thick is used, after which the floor is poured with a cement-sand mortar.
If the ceiling in the house on the ground floor is in good condition, then it is not recommended to load the floor surface. It is better to use a sand-cement screed with a layer of 2.5 to 3 centimeters. In all other cases, both in private and multi-storey buildings, it is advised to make a thin screed to avoid unnecessary load on the floor.
If there is an old level screed on the floor, and only small irregularities are noticeable, then in this case it is recommended to use a self-leveling mixture. The mixture is applied in a thin layer, after which the final floor covering can be laid.

preparatory work

All measures for preparing the floor for screed and further laying the floor covering can be divided into several stages: basic preparation, installation of thermal insulation, installation of waterproofing, laying of reinforcing mesh, installation of additional structures. Let's consider each stage separately.

Floor screed technology

The process of do-it-yourself floor screed in the apartment is as follows:

Remember that you can not accelerate the drying of the applied cement or concrete mortar. So you can ruin the floor, and the work will need to be done again.

The floor screed technology has its own nuances and difficulties. However, if you follow the instructions and recommendations, even a beginner will cope with the work.

The most important and most responsible stage of repair work is the floor screed in the apartment. The reliability and durability of the finishing floor covering depends on the quality of performance. The work is complicated by the fact that the floor slabs are laid with a smooth surface in the direction of the ceiling located below the apartment, and the side with numerous irregularities has to be used as a floor. It is often possible to hide and even out existing defects only with a screed.

Types of screed used in apartments

There are several methods of screeding, used in certain conditions, each of them has advantages and disadvantages.

Dry screed

For this type of screed, gypsum boards with a waterproofing surface are used, which can be replaced with chipboard, waterproof plywood. Backfilling is carried out with burnt perlite, expanded clay, metallurgical slag, vermiculite.

The device of dry floor screed is advisable:

If it is necessary to carry out repairs in a short time and there is no time for pouring a wet screed.
When restoring or overhauling buildings with floors that are not designed for significant loads.
at negative temperatures.
For underfloor heating on wooden floors.
In office complexes, residential buildings of individual development.

It has a high degree of fire safety, which is due to the use of only non-combustible materials for filling. In addition, the coating is characterized by numerous advantages:

high heat and sound insulation;
does not emit toxic fumes;
does not create additional load on the slab, which is important when choosing a method for pouring the screed in Khrushchev;
convenient when installing home communication systems (laying cables, wires, etc.);
maintains the distributed loading to 1000 kg/sq.m.

In addition to the obvious advantages, this type of screed has its drawbacks:

the formation of a large amount of dust, therefore, during installation, it is necessary to ensure respiratory protection - it is imperative to use a respirator or a cotton-gauze bandage;
hydrophobia of the finished coating, which excludes the use of a dry screed for rooms with high humidity;
floor screed material is quite expensive.

Wet

The screed method got its name due to the fact that there is water in the mixture being poured. In addition to it, the composition includes finely sifted sand and cement of a grade not lower than M200.

Wet screed has the following advantages:

high mechanical strength, abrasion resistance, low dust formation;
low cost due to the use of inexpensive components;
the possibility of laying communications (electrical networks, "warm floor" systems);
the possibility of creating layers of considerable thickness, if necessary, removing the level.

Wet screed is a popular way of arranging smooth surfaces under the front flooring laid in apartments or individual houses, despite some disadvantages. These include:

debts hardening period, which is about 4-6 weeks;
the formation of a large amount of dirt;
significant weight of the screed;
inevitable shrinkage of the coating;
high labor intensity.

Self leveling

A modern method for obtaining a flat surface for laying face covering. The compositions are made on the basis of polymers or sand and cement with the addition of polymeric ingredients.

The specificity of self-leveling floors lies in their ability to spread evenly under the influence of gravity in a thin layer. At the same time, all the unevenness of the floor is eliminated, a flat horizontal surface is created.

When installing a self-leveling floor, due to its high fluidity, it is not necessary to promote the spread of the mixture over the base. Only rolling with a spiked roller is necessary to displace air bubbles from the solution. The coating thickness is 35-100 mm.

Most often, such floors, due to a perfectly flat surface, are arranged not as a separate screed, but as an additional coating laid on a concrete base.

Which screed is better?

To determine the appropriate type of rough coating for a particular room, you need to consider all types of screeds in the apartment, study their advantages and disadvantages:

Dry screeding is not allowed in latrines and bathrooms, other rooms with high humidity due to the likelihood of flooding, leading to wetting of the layer and the development of mold and fungus colonies.
The installation of a wet screed in cottages and apartments is not always justified due to the laboriousness and long wait for drying and hardening. Laying an expensive top coat on an unfinished rough surface is dangerous and can lead to damage. On the other hand, in garages and other non-residential premises, the use of a “wet” coating has no alternative, since other methods cannot be compared with it in terms of strength and hardness.
Dry screed is more suitable for individual houses with wooden floors, because it does not affect durability and does not reduce the strength of structural elements.

The optimal solution is the use of a combined screed, which provides for a combination of semi-dry or wet with a self-leveling floor, so that the surface is strong and even.

Stages of work

Having decided which screed is best for an apartment, and which one for a garage, you can start pouring it. Step-by-step instructions are considered for a classic screed.

Step 1. Determination of the zero line

A laser level will help simplify the work - it’s good if you have one in the household or you can take it from neighbors or friends. Using this tool, horizontal lines on the walls are beaten off faster, the control of the horizontal position of the guides is easier.

If there is no laser device, you can get by with a water or ordinary building level.

The markup begins with the drawing of the zero line, for which you must first determine the base line. Actions are performed in this order.

Visual determination of the highest corner of the room. To do this, a point is marked on the wall at any height.
Using the water level, the point is moved to other walls and connected with a solid line. If the line went through all the walls and exactly matched on the last one, the transfer was done exactly.
From the baseline, measurements are taken strictly vertically every 50 cm. The values are recorded in a notebook or on the wall. From the value calculated at the highest point, the thickness of the screed is subtracted - at least 3 cm.
Further, zero is transferred along the walls of the room - the resulting value is subtracted from the base value, points are outlined and connected in a straight line.

Often you may encounter the fact that the level in the central part of the room is higher than the level near the walls. This is checked by stretching the cord between the opposing walls and measuring the distance from it to the plate. This check is performed at several points. If there is still an elevation in the center, the zero line should be moved upwards to ensure the minimum allowable screed layer.

Step 2. Surface preparation

When constructing a concrete floor on the ground (in the basement or in an individual house without a basement), it is necessary to remove a layer with a thickness of 50 cm. Then a sand cushion with a thickness of 10 cm is arranged and carefully compacted, a gravel layer is poured over the sand. A preliminary pouring of a solution with expanded clay with a thickness of 15-20 cm is carried out to create an insulating layer.

After the first layer has hardened, it is waterproofed using roofing felt or dense polyethylene to prevent the penetration of groundwater from below. The material used for waterproofing is laid with an allowance on the walls by an amount slightly exceeding the height of the screed. On top, you can arrange an additional insulating layer, and then fill in the finishing screed.

When working in an apartment, the existing concrete draft base should be removed, which is due to the following reasons:

The old base can peel off, crack, transfer deformations to a new layer.
Laying a new layer of screed on top of the old one leads to an increase in the strictly normalized load on the floor slab. For thickening, it is necessary to obtain permission from the relevant supervisory authorities and it is far from certain that the issue will be resolved positively for the owner of the apartment.
The height of the ceilings in most apartment buildings does not allow you to raise the level of the floor.

To remove the old screed, you can use a perforator, the work should be done carefully, excluding damage to the plate.

To increase adhesion with the solution, a penetrating primer is applied to the surface of the plate. A shock-absorbing tape is glued along the perimeter of the room, which compensates for the widening of the concrete, leading to cracking and deformation.

Step 3. Setting up beacons

Marking for beacons is performed immediately after the zero level is determined. The work is carried out in accordance with the following recommendations:

guides are laid along the pouring direction;
it is recommended to lay the guides at a distance of 25-30 cm from the nearest parallel wall.
the gap between adjacent guides is not regulated, the main requirement is that when leveling the cement composition, the correct tool should enter 20 cm from both sides.
the distribution of guides in the room should be at an equal distance from each other.

Beacons are placed in various ways, among which the installation using self-tapping screws is considered the simplest and most accurate. The work is done in the following sequence:

At the far end of the room, at a distance of 25-30 cm from the corner between the opposing walls, a cord is pulled along the zero level without sagging;
At the point of intersection of the lace with the guide closest to the wall, a hole is made, a dowel is driven in, and a self-tapping screw is screwed into it. The upper plane of his hat should coincide with the zero line.

The same operation is carried out on the other side of the room, closest to the door.
Self-tapping screws are connected with each other with maximum force by a stretched cord so that it is adjacent to the top of the heads.
Other holes for dowels are marked and drilled with an interval of 35-40 cm. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the dowels so that the plane of their head coincides with the level of the cord, the check is carried out by applying the building level.
On the opposite guide, a line of self-tapping screws parallel to the first is arranged. In the same way, they are installed on intermediate guides. The level check is carried out in all directions - along, across, diagonally.
The cords are removed, a thick solution is applied along the lines of the self-tapping screws with low slides. A U-shaped profile is placed on top of the piles and is strongly pressed into the concrete until the transverse shelf comes into contact with the heads of the self-tapping screws.

In screeds of considerable thickness, it is recommended to reinforce using a mesh of steel wire with zinc coating of 50-100 mm in size. For maximum efficiency, the reinforcement should be located approximately in the middle of the depth of the solution.

Step 4. Mixing the composition

Before you make a floor screed in the apartment, you need to prepare a solution. A mixture made in the "classic" proportion of 3 to 1 is considered standard.

In order not to spoil the future screed already at the initial stage, several nuances should be taken into account:

for the manufacture of the solution, not river, but quarry sand without clay inclusions is used;
it is necessary to optimally select the amount of added water so that the result is not too thick or too fluid solution.

An excessively spreading composition after the evaporation of water will shrink significantly upon drying; it is impossible to achieve a smooth surface, determined by the zero line.

The strength characteristics of the coating will also decrease - it will be crumbly, with weak bonds, with high dust formation.

The solution is made dense and plastic, which does not form voids when pouring. The approximate amount of water is 1 liter per 5 kg of dry sand concrete.

Step 5. Filling and leveling the screed

The optimal temperature conditions for pouring and hardening the screed are considered to be in the range of 15-25°C. At low temperatures, the hardening time of concrete will increase, and in hot weather it is recommended to refrain from pouring altogether - the surface layer will dry out too quickly and crack.

The technology involves the work of two workers - one prepares the solution, the second is engaged in pouring it and smoothing the coating.

Work must be done starting from a distant corner of the room, gradually moving towards the exit. To ensure the uniformity and strength of the coating, the pouring should be carried out in one day, otherwise the area will have to be divided into separate sections with the placement of jumpers between them.

A pre-prepared solution with a margin is laid out in the gaps between the guides 1.5-2 cm above the zero line. The initial distribution of the mixture is carried out with a shovel or trowel. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that no voids form under the reinforcing bars or in the corners of the room.

Before leveling to remove air, the solution is “bayoneted” - pierced with a trowel or shovel.

A rule is laid on the guides and the mixture is leveled to the surface of the profile with wagging movements and a smooth and even coating is obtained.

The solution is added gradually to ensure the continuity of the process. Surplus at the end of work must be removed.

Step 6. Checking the work

After pouring, pets and people are not recommended to walk on the floor for 5-7 days. For effective maturation of concrete, it is advisable to moisten its surface with water daily, and in case of intense heat, cover it with plastic wrap to prevent drying out.

The readiness of the cement-sand mortar for operational loads occurs after 3 weeks.

After hardening, the screed is checked for the quality of the resulting surface and its evenness. A rule is placed on the guides remaining in the screed and the gap in the central part of the room is checked. Level mismatch up to 2 mm is allowed.

To obtain a perfectly smooth surface, screeds are often covered with a thin layer of self-leveling compound.

Further operation of the floor

When using a freshly poured screed, the following recommendations should be followed:

do not allow sharp or heavy objects to fall on the screed;
when laying on the underfloor heating system, from the moment of pouring until the heating is turned on, you should wait at least 30 days;
it is not allowed to install scaffolding, ladders or tours for 10 days, despite the fact that 5 days after pouring, other finishing work can be performed.

All of the above actions can damage the surface to such an extent that you have to remove the screed and do the job again.

From the author: Hi all! Have you ever seen what a bare concrete slab looks like in an apartment? The spectacle is not for the faint of heart, I tell you. In general, I became interested in how a do-it-yourself floor screed is made in an apartment when I was about to change linoleum for tiles in the kitchen. After all, she washes well, and it’s somehow more fun with her. When I removed the old linoleum, I found that my floor was uneven to the point of tears. I decided to make a screed, and only then lay the tiles. I tell you how I did it.

So, the screed is a crucial moment in the repair. It is necessary to obtain a smooth surface that will last a long time and will allow you to remove existing cracks and chips. Having produced, in the future, you can lay linoleum, lay a laminate or parquet, and tile the floor.

Varieties of materials for work

It is possible to eliminate deficiencies (leveling the floor) using various building materials. It is important to bear in mind that the method of work depends on the choice made. There are the following types of screed:

(a kind of dry leveling).

Classical, used in most cases - concrete. It is used for the initial stage of eliminating irregularities. The mixture contains cement, sand and special fillers that provide elasticity. I want to note that it is difficult to carry out such a screed on your own.

A dry screed is necessary if there are large height differences (3–12 cm). It is carried out using various technologies, including:

on logs (plywood, chipboard are the material for eliminating irregularities);
plasterboard leveling.

Self-leveling - is made from ready-made mixtures. Most often used as a finishing surface (final layer), it effectively removes unevenness and height differences.

Preparatory stage

It is very important to remember the need to prepare the surface for leveling. This stage requires a responsible approach, since the quality of all work depends on it. To get a good result, you need to perform several actions:

Remove the old floor covering (remove linoleum, parquet board or tile).
Clean the surface (remove dirt, small particles and dust).
Treat the surface with a primer (if it is made of concrete).
Openings, seams, cracks must be sealed with non-shrinking cement.

The choice of type and methodology for eliminating deficiencies depends on financial capabilities. You can see the features of the preparatory work with your own hands in the video:

High-quality apartment renovation, in particular, the screed is made using ready-made mixtures. Let's consider this point in more detail.

Features of working with concrete composition

Concrete leveling is considered one of the most reliable methods for eliminating defects, and it can be used to pour a quality screed. After completing the preparatory stage, the laying begins directly. To do this, you will need the following tools:

rule;
construction level;
tape measure (the use of a centimeter is allowed);
Master OK;
putty knife;
drill (it is necessary to use a special nozzle that can knead the solution);
a sufficiently deep container (bucket or basin);
beacons (for additional control).

Using the building level, the surface to be treated with the composition is measured. At this stage, it will be possible to identify all the shortcomings that are in the room - curvature, chips, cracks, height differences. The surface is then thoroughly cleaned.

It is important to consider that sometimes it becomes necessary to pre-lay waterproofing material (actually private houses and apartments located on the ground or basement floors). Reliable screed is carried out using beacons, as they allow you to achieve a perfectly flat surface; and the better to do the main work - it depends on the budget, so they choose a concrete mix to save money.

The next step is priming the surface. To do this, you need to prepare a solution from a dry mixture. It should be laid immediately, because the primer hardens quickly. The rule allows you to easily and quickly level the layer. An important point: in one room, all work must be completed within 24 hours. Sometimes a mesh or reinforcement is used for better adhesion (lay before pouring the screed).

After pouring, the surface should be covered with a conventional film, vapor barrier material (wet rags are allowed). Leave the coating until the moisture from the composition has completely evaporated and the leveling material has hardened (it will take from 2 to 4 days, depending on the characteristics and properties of the mixture used). You can speed up the drying process by ventilating the room, doing work in sunny and hot weather.

After drying, it is required to check the evenness using the building level. If necessary, the bumps are cut and overwritten. The final stage is the application of the finishing layer, which is carried out no earlier than after 28 days. This period is necessary for the complete drying of the material used. Also, until this moment it is impossible to carry out the installation of a "warm floor".

To speed up the work, you can use ceramic tiles as a floor covering (and I'm a fan of it, as you understand), since it can be laid directly on the screed after 5-6 days. The screed suitable for leveling is selected depending on the characteristics of the room, so which one is best for the apartment is decided by its owner.

In general, work from start to finish can require a significant amount of time, but anyone can do it on their own, even if they do not have enough experience in building and finishing.

I hope you have now cleared up in your head how to do this work with your own hands. If you still have questions - subscribe to our groups in social networks and improve your knowledge in repair and construction. See you soon!