Standard hydrangea: growing methods and rules of care. Create a hydrangea stem tree
In their lectures on pruning ornamental plants I talk in some detail about the formation of a tree hydrangea, which has long become popular and beloved among our gardeners. Recently, however, gardeners have become increasingly interested in the formation of another hydrangea - panicle, so I think it's time to talk about it.
Panicle hydrangeas have long been known in culture. The very first garden cultivarGrandiflora began its march across countries and continents since 1860. It is not surprising that it is he who is the most common. He has many advantages - frost-hardy, unpretentious, grows quickly, blooms beautifully, multiplies easily, lives for a long time.
However, there are also disadvantages. And the main one is the lodging fast-growing young shoots that are not able to keep directly under the weight of large and heavy inflorescences. In winter, young shoots can not withstand the weight of snow and ice and break. As a result, many gardeners have come to the conclusion that it is better to spend several years forming a bush than to correct its sloppy shape all the time.
FOR ABUNDANT BLOSSOMING
Panicle hydrangea forms inflorescences on the branches of the first order. In order for such shoots to become more, the bushes must be heavily cut every year before the growing season. This stimulates branching, and therefore abundant flowering.
Pruning should be done in early spring, before bud break. If you are late with this, then the plant develops poorly and sometimes does not even bloom. If done correctly, the hydrangea blooms this year, forming lush inflorescences up to 40 cm long at the end of each shoot.
First of all, weak and thickening shoots should be completely removed. Do not be afraid to trim off frozen shoots. If pruned to healthy wood, they will bloom the same year. The remaining annual shoots are shortened, leaving 3 - 5 pairs of buds.
The number of inflorescences increases every year. So, at 5 years old hydrangea will have about 30 inflorescences, at 6 years old - 60, at 13 years old already 375! The inflorescences preserved on the bush should be cut off in late autumn so that the branches do not break with snow. However, some gardeners prefer to leave everything as it is, as they believe that hydrangea then winters better.
The shrub propagates well by cuttings that remain after spring pruning. Of these, cuttings with 4 - 5 buds are harvested, placed for 2 days in a weak solution of a root stimulator, and planted in a nursery in a looseacidic soil to the depth of two buds.
BRUSH FORM
If you prefer to grow a panicle hydrangea in the form of a bush, then you should not waste time and let it get neglected. It is quite difficult to fix such bushes. Better to form a bush while it is young.
Usually, panicle hydrangea, propagated by cuttings, goes on sale either after the first or after the second wintering. It is better not to touch the one-year-old, but to let it take root and prove itself. The next year, she may already have leading shoots. Depending on their nature, it is necessary to decide whether you can do the shaping or not.
To begin with, choose between 3 and 5 shoots growing at an angle of approximately 30 ° to the vertical. All others should be cut for the first few years - until your leading shoots are fat and hardened enough to easily withstand any snow.
The size of the bush boles can be different. It depends on the amount of growth of the lateral branches. After all, the main task in the formation of a bush form is to raise the flowering part of the bush above the ground. So, if the annual growth of branches is about one meter, then the stem should also be about the same - otherwise the inflorescences will lie on the ground. In order to direct these stems in your chosen direction, straight, without bends, you can attach them to supports driven in at the desired angle.
After you finish the formation of boles, you can already allow the bush to start branching. In the future, all side branches should be shortened to 2 - 4 buds every spring and cut off all root growth... Old shrubs can be rejuvenated by pruning on perennial wood or tree stumps. After that, the decorative effect of the bush is restored in the second year.
STAMP FORM
Panicle hydrangea is very decorative, grown on a trunk in the form of a tree. Perennial shoots are lignified, covered with a thick layer of bark and are no longer able to form new shoots. This is what the idea of \u200b\u200bforming a panicle hydrangea into a tree is based on. The formed stem part ceases to give lateral shoots, and only the tip continues its development - branching and growth.
The tree is grown as follows. Among the rooted cuttings, the strongest and tallest are chosen, planted separately and for 3-4 years they are engaged in raising a stem.
Hydrangea Grandiflora grown in standard form in the botanical garden of St. Petersburg
In addition to the main shoot coming from the base, all others should be pinched in the summer in one or two doses. This increases the diameter of the stem, therefore such branches are called thickening shoots. When they have fulfilled their function, they should be cut in June “for the ring”. Every year, at the beginning of the growing season, the leading shoot is shortened to a well-developed bud.
A crown is laid at a height of 1 - 1.5 m. Choose 4 - 5 buds, of which skeletal branches are formed. The stem is now pruned annually, and the branches below begin to shorten each spring to create a dense crown. In subsequent years, do not forget to clean the bole from the lower newly formed side shoots, so that the plant's energy in the future is directed only to the upper branches forming the crown.
The skeleton of a standard hydrangea tree is clearly visible
Different varieties differ in the nature and growth rate of the branches. Therefore, depending on what kind of panicle hydrangea you are forming, you must choose either a weeping or an erect tree shape. For weeping varieties, the trunk is made higher - 1.3 - 1.5 m, to make room for the falling branches. For erect varieties such as Kuishu or Thatrdiva, the main trunk is usually cut at a height of 0.9 - 1.0 m.
Sergey Tarnuev
Standard plants in the garden have always attracted increased attention, as something extraordinary. It would seem that it is a completely standard rose or currant, but it grows completely differently than it should. And it's already difficult to call it a bush. Imagine: on a perfectly flat high trunk there is a dense crown-cap or a cascade of falling branches. The most interesting thing is that a similar effect was achieved not by breeding new variety groups, but with the help of correct formation or vaccinations. Usually, specialists are engaged in the cultivation of boles, and amateur gardeners acquire them already formed in nurseries. However, you can try and create a standard culture yourself - it's not too difficult if you know some of the nuances. We'll talk about them now.
Of course, the most luxurious standard plants are flowering species: roses, hydrangeas, Japanese chaenomeles, budley. Hungarian lilacs and Bulldonezh viburnum are also grown in the form of a trunk. If desired, and with a certain amount of perseverance, plants that give an active root growthwhich will have to be removed regularly. Among such difficult species, common lilac and mock-orange are the most preferred.
Some decorative deciduous plants can also look very impressive in the form of a trunk. For example, the goat willow has a luxurious weeping crown, which in early spring covered with fluffy flowers-earrings. Japanese willow with a variegated, rising crown will also decorate the garden unusually. Mountain ash, maple, ash, gooseberries, currants and many other species are grown as a stem.
An alley of standard lindens in autumn is an incredible sight
Standard forms are not yet very common. conifers - spruce, pine, thuja, larch, cypress. Therefore, if you want to be original - choose for decoration alpine slide or their front garden.
Getting a trunk using shaping
The easiest way, if you are a person far from gardening delights, is to try to create a stem by shaping the trunk and trimming the crown. This method will require a significant amount of time, but the result will meet the wildest expectations.
To bring this idea to life, it is important to choose the right young seedling. Planting material should be as even as possible, without knots. Immediately after landing, its trunk is tied to a vertical support - a wooden or metal peg driven into the ground.
Further, as it grows, it is necessary to tie the growing top to the support, and mercilessly remove all lateral shoots. This procedure continues until the stem reaches the desired height. Only then can you pinch the apical shoot so that the crown begins to grow. Very quickly, young shoots will begin to appear near the pinching site, which, as they grow, also need to be pinched. Then the crown will turn out to be thick and fluffy.
Vaccination is another opportunity to get a beautiful stem
In this case, a scion is grafted onto the stock, which will serve as a stem, - the future crown. First you need to decide on the stock. Usually this plant is of the same botanical genus as the cultivated part, but genetically stronger. For example, a rose is traditionally grafted onto a rose hip, a weeping elm - onto a rough elm, etc. You can go a more complicated way, "crossing" related plants different types, for example, a pear scion easily takes root on a mountain ash trunk, and a Siberian cedar scion - on a pine tree. Such mixes can enter the fruiting period much earlier, for example, a pear on a rowan trunk yields fruits already 2-3 years after planting.
In order to get a beautiful standard plant by grafting, a stem is first grown. This is done in the same way as with the forming method, that is, the seedling is tied to a support, side shoots are removed and wait until it grows to the required height. After that, it is time to inoculate using a suitable cuttings cultivated plant, on which there are 3-4 living kidneys. This process is best done in early to mid April. To do this, cut off the top of the trunk with a sharp knife, and then make another vertical cut in the middle on this cut - a split.
At this time, an oblique cut is made on the scion cut above the upper bud, and a wedge is formed from the lower part with two oblique cuts. The resulting wedge is carefully inserted into the split so as not to damage the stem, and the junction is tied up with plastic tape. In order to prevent the top of the cutting from beginning to rot, the cut is treated with garden pitch.
In a month, the buds should awaken on the engrafted cuttings, from which young shoots will go. They need to be monitored and pinched in time to form beautiful crown... Already at the end of the second season, if you take proper care of the seedling, you will get a fully formed stem, which you can be proud of.
In fact, creating such a miracle is not difficult, but it takes time and patience. If you have all this, try growing a standard plant and it will definitely become a precious pearl of your garden.
Hydrangea - beautiful plant, characterized by a long flowering period. If you know how to shape a bush, then you can achieve even better results. Some varieties can even produce vines. Distinctive feature flowers - this is an amazing variety of color shades. In this article, the reader will learn how to grow a hydrangea on a trunk.
Features of agricultural technology
This plant should be planted in autumn or early spring. Moreover, if the florist lives in the northern regions of Russia, then it is preferable to plant him in the spring so that the plant can grow, take root and start up the root system. A place for planting a flower must be chosen in advance and the soil must be prepared in time. Plants love to keep it acidic and well hydrated. The landing site should not be too shaded.
For planting, a hole is formed, about 30 cm wide, long and deep. Fertilizers (organic and mineral), sand must be added to it. All this is mixed with turf. After the seedling is placed by hand into the hole, it is additionally covered with peat. The planted bush is watered and mulched (best of all with the help of humus). The plant grows equally well in the world and in partial shade.
Hydrangea
For the winter, the plant growing in the northern regions of Russia must be removed to a cool room, where the temperature does not drop by less than 4 ° C. This is due to the fact that the plant does not tolerate frost well. In the southern regions of the country, the plant tolerates winter better, and therefore it can be planted in the fall. You can grow it in open soil with shelter (spruce branches are suitable for this).
On a note! To increase the acidity of the soil, special fertilizers are used (for example, Pokon). It can be prepared at home by mixing ammonium nitrate, potassium sulfate and superphosphate.
Plant propagation
There are several breeding options for this plant. Each of them gives good results if the basic rules of agricultural technology are followed.
Using cuttings
Hydrangea can be propagated by cuttings. Best time their procurement - April-June. To do this, choose annual and bright shoots, no more than 12 cm long.
Note! Cuttings should only be cut at right angles.
Leaves are removed from the bottom of it. This part is treated with a growth stimulant. Then the cutting is planted in the soil in a greenhouse. Planting is carried out for the winter, the plant must be sheltered from frost.
There is a way of winter cuttings. It is held only at large-leaved varieties hydrangeas. To this end, in October, they dig mother plant... It is planted in a pot, placed in a room where the temperature does not exceed 2 ° C. In the middle of winter, it is slowly raised to 10 ° C.
Hydrangea cuttings
By February, last year's shoots are already ripening. Cuttings are cut from them. It is necessary to ensure that they have two internodes. The sections are treated with a growth stimulant and planted in a nutrient soil.
Dividing the bush
This plant can be propagated by division. The hydrangea needs to be dug up and divided into several parts. Divide so that each part has a bud, otherwise a new plant will not grow from it.
After division, each part is planted in a previously prepared place.
Layers
This method of reproduction is used if the shoots are more than one year old. They are carefully bent to the surface of the earth and instilled so that tops remain on the surface of the earth, no more than 20 cm high.
In the spring of next year, the shoot must be separated from the mother bush and transplanted according to the usual rules.
Propagation of hydrangea by layering
Stem hydrangea
Paniculate, large-leaved and tree varieties of hydrangeas can be grown on a trunk. It is not at all necessary to deepen such seedlings. Hydrangea paniculata on a trunk looks very beautiful and impressive with an even trunk and bright inflorescences... To create a trunk, you need to carefully monitor the plant for about three years.
The advantages of this growing method are:
- The hydrangea on the stem is very attractive and decorative.
- The plant is resistant to winter. Only in severe winters, young shoots should be covered with spruce branches.
- Hydrangea stem forms are excellently grown in landscape design. With their help, gardens are formed in a unique japanese style... It is with the help of boles that you can form beautiful and unique vines.
- This hydrangea can even be grown on balconies in city apartments.
To create a stem, panicle hydrangeas are best suited. To create support, a wooden or metal stake is deepened into the ground. The plant is strengthened on it in several places. Side shoots pinched for the whole summer 2 times. They are cut out for another summer.
Note! It is best to plant the stem near a wall or fence so that it does not break off due to the wind.
You need to cut the ring so that the barrel thickens all the time. At the beginning of the growing season, it is shortened. Crown laying begins when the main shoot grows to one and a half meters. Then skeletal branches are formed.
Standard hydrangea as a tree is fully formed only in the eighth year. But all the efforts in the care are replenished by the life span of the plant - over 40 years. It is easy to form a crown with such a hydrangea. Sometimes shrubs and other low-growing plants are planted under the tree.
Stem hydrangea
To receive standard form apply the vaccine. For this, a split is made in the standard part, where the cutting is grafted. It must contain at least three live buds.
The most important moment in caring for a standard plant is pruning. Flowering, crown shape and grooming depend on it.
Plant care
The basic rules for caring for hydrangea are:
- feeding with mineral plants and fertilizers (they must be taken in moderation, since hydrangea does not like excessive amounts of fertilizers);
- use slurry and humus;
- water the flower regularly (and it is necessary to ensure that the acid index of the water used for irrigation is about 5.6);
- loosening the soil (this procedure makes it possible to retain moisture, this plant does not like overdrying).
The rules for pruning a plant are as follows:
- you need to cut off shoots at a time when the buds have already swollen;
- a young shoot is cut to 4 buds;
- if the bush is old, then it must be updated by cutting it at the root;
- in the first year of flowering, the flowers are removed: this will help to get very beautiful and abundant inflorescences the next year.
Important! If you purposefully and constantly cut the bushes, then after 5 years you can achieve the stunning beauty of the tree.
Hydrangea flowers can change color. For this, dyes are used. If you add a little potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation at home, the flowers will acquire a beautiful pink color.
Covering the plant for the winter allows you to achieve more early flowering.
Hydrangea shelter
Why hydrangea does not bloom
Although this is relative unpretentious plant, not all growers manage to have beautiful flowers.
The most common reasons for the lack of flowers on hydrangeas are:
- Improper fertilization. If a large amount of nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil, they will contribute to more intensive foliage growth. To achieve flowering, potash and phosphate fertilizers must be used. Moreover, for the winter, you need to add fertilizers, which include phosphorus.
- Excessive pruning. If you cut off all the branches for the winter, then next year the plant will definitely not bloom. You only need to remove old and dried branches from the bush.
- Incorrect plant cover in cold winter leads to the fact that his kidneys are very cold.
- Poor watering. The plant does not tolerate dry soil.
- Landing in a place where the sun's rays are intense. They can burn the buds and they won't bloom well.
- Buying a flowering specimen from the nursery in the store leads to the fact that it did not bloom the next year. This is due drip irrigation and a weak root system.
Hydrangea neighbors
The best neighbors for this plant are those with well-developed tubers. Boxwood, hosts, astilba are used.
Astilbe flower
Hydrangea is not placed next to plants with a poorly developed root system. They will inhibit flower growth. It is strictly forbidden to plant hydrangeas under trees. Such hydrangeas will suffer from dehydration and will soon die.
Top dressing
After two years, the plant needs feeding. To stimulate growth, a solution of 25 g of carbamide, 35 g of potassium sulfate and 10 g of superphosphate is used. All this must be dissolved in 10 liters of water.
During the budding period, 50 g of potassium sulfate and 80 g of superphosphate are added per 1 m2 of soil. In July, you need to pour 10 liters of mullein solution under each bush. The same is done in August.
Growing stock hydrangea quite laborious, especially for novice florists. But the labor expended is worth it, because after a few years you can get a very beautiful flowering plant... You can plant a flower on any personal plot, then in a few years the eye will be pleased with beautiful and unique landscape compositions.
Nimfochka, Irina, we thoroughly weed everything up to the lawn. Everywhere they write that it is better to plant a lawn early autumn or already in August-September. They planted this way and that and concluded that it was not necessary to plant the lawn in the early autumn, because at this time everything is activated, the growing season and weeds climb forward of the lawn. Our successful experience was, oddly enough, in June and August. They prepared the soil (as already mentioned above, they thoroughly cut everything off before planting the lawn), leveled it, it is necessary that the earth be submerged, and before planting it should be loosened a little with a rake so that the seeds linger in the grooves. The seeds were mixed with sand and sown thickly. Then everyone covered with specials. fabric, it is very, very thin, like a cobweb, it passes water well and prevents moisture from evaporating. When seeds germinate, water should be frequent. It is good if you sow the seeds before precipitation. We guessed so often. Rains have a special vigor for growth. How many times have I noticed that you water and water the plant, but it grows somehow, and the rain will pass - it will rage). But they themselves watered. We don't let the earth dry out. At a good temperature and frequent watering the seeds germinate in a week. Here we need to remove our fabric. And that's all, you will see a gorgeous lawn stubble. Further leaving.
During the summer, water every other day in the evening or at night. We read that you can water the lawn in the morning until 10 am. Don't believe it. The ground dries out quickly and the lawn does not have time to saturate and turns yellow. That is, watering goes nowhere. We mow every week. This is also important. if you start and don't mow, the lawn turns into green bumps and the carpet disappears. In the spring, the lawn grows faster and it happened that I had to mow twice a week. In the summer, once is enough.
And the most interesting thing we do, every spring we cut the roots of the lawn. Scientifically, this is called verticulation. Read about it on the Internet.
Everything in the complex gave us such a lawn) If you have any questions - ask) I will answer)
Saplings of fruit-bearing crops nursery Moe Derevo
One of the best options for relaxation, it is a walk and even work in your own garden. Flowers, trees and bushes that have been planted with my own hands and nurtured with care at all times is a wonderful way to reconnect with nature and make the best of it. A private garden begins with a small one - with tree seedlings, thanks to which an adult plant grows.
Buy seedlings in Minsk you can in the online store, from the hands of private sellers and at gardening fairs. Purchase of future conifers, deciduous, artisanal, fruit trees in the store is profitable, because you are not only obliged to sell a quality product, but they can also advise better technology planting, methods of care and watering of the plant. Moreover, when buying in an online store, the seedling delivery service is connected, which is especially useful for wholesale purchases. Buying plants "out of hand" is not always profitable, because there is a risk of getting caught by unscrupulous sellers who do not know what they are selling and how.
Find and Buy in Minsk quality seedlings exotic, common domestic plants are now easy. If you want to create your own "green corner", plant special varieties of berries or fruit trees - trust the professionals to select the best specimens among the seedlings. The range of products will pleasantly surprise everyone, including not only fruits and berries, but also decorative, shade-loving and other types of plants. Have you already looked after the required type? Saw the new kindthat is not yet in the collection or that you have been looking for for a long time? Want to try something new and diversify your garden? We carry out profitable sales for the client low prices from high level service. Delivery of seedlings is carried out in a short time.
Here you can buy seedlings with both a closed root system and an open one. When closed system there is the possibility of a longer stay in a pot or container (as a rule, such plants grow in them or germinate before the right size). We offer quality plant seedlings different types own production.
HORTENSIA correct planting and care in the open field PHOTOS
We describe planting and caring for hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Ural, Siberia and southern regions).
Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth
- 1 Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth
- 1.1 Step-by-step instruction planting hydrangeas
- 1.2 When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?
- 1.3 Care of hydrangea after planting
- 2 Caring for garden hydrangea: growing secrets
- 2.1 Top dressing
- 2.2 Watering the hydrangea
- 3 Correct pruning hydrangeas: spring and autumn
- 3.1 Group No. 1 (hydrangea large-leaved (garden), prickly, serrate, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate)
- 3.2 Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)
- 4 Care for hydrangea in the fall and preparation for winter
- 4.1 Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas
- 5 Diseases and pests
- 6 Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?
- 6.1 How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?
- 7 Useful Tips hydrangea care
The plant is thermophilic, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.
We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.
Landing place
Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is needed, she really loves diffused light.
At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade, in this case it later blooms with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the morning. Therefore, the east side is better than the west side.
Soil and acidity
Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils... It develops worse on red earth, and sandy soils are contraindicated.
The optimum acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral slow development and pale coloration.
Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves). When a bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.
Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron items (nails, a bank, a horseshoe).
When planting, a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers is prepared.
Soil mix
Composition: humus, sod land, leaf land and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (black soil), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. And also nutrients: 20-25 g (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 g of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 g of superphosphate (150-250 g of bone meal).
If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.
A complete ban - lime, chalk and wood ash.
Landing distance
Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm.If you want to plant hydrangea in a row ( hedge, "Mixborder"), then you can dig a trench 90-110 cm wide.
If you want to achieve an earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.
Landing pit
Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.
Planting depth
The root collar should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.
Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas
When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?
Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.
Hydrangea care after planting
Preparing for flowering
For the first two years, cut the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and the aboveground part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.
- Watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.
Hydrangea garden care: growing secrets
Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to mulch into trunk circle for greater moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or chips 7-8 cm in a layer, 24-30 cm in diameter.
Top dressing
When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed for the first two years. General rule top dressing until July, acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate).
The need for a plant nutrientsah tall as it grows rapidly and blooms vigorously.
Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
- For feeding, it is not recommended to use wood ash... Fertilizers work well for heather species and rhododendron.
- Avoid an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, poor flowering and promotes the development of rot. Apply only in April - May.
- Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings), will do more harm than a lack.
Watering hydrangea
The flower is hygrophilous and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated; lack of sufficient moisture leads to developmental disruption.
In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if it is rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.
The lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, then additional watering is required.
Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water works best for watering.
To water better in the morning or in the evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.
Pruning hydrangea correctly: spring and fall
All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can only be carried out from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.
Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), thorny, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)
These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. Optimal time pruning - as soon as the buds are slightly swollen, there is no active movement of juices, plus such pruned shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of a garden hydrangea.
Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophile) cannot be cut off, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch over 3 years old, especially the one growing inward so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such trimming besides giving more decorative form improves flowering.
Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)
An exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are cut depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.
- Petiolate hydrangea is poorly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.
Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)
These species blooming on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: mid to late March (as soon as the snow melts). An annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.
Tips
- To thin out the bush, remove old, weak and growing inward shoots completely annually.
- Cut off frozen stems to the first living bud.
Bush rejuvenation
It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level ("under the stump") or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.
Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?
In autumn, the faded inflorescences are cut off at the hydrangea without fail so that the branches do not break under the weight of the snow.
Stamp form
Hydrangea paniculata can be grown in the form of a tree - a low bole. Choose one of the most developed shoot on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cut, and cut off the rest. Then cut this shoot to the strongest bud every year in the spring, until it reaches 100 cm in height.
To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off every year and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.
An example of a standard form of hydrangea paniculata
Hydrangea care in the fall and preparation for winter
After flowering, care for hydrangea in autumn is to remove faded inflorescences and prepare for winter.
- Tree hydrangea for the winter can not be covered, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
- In the conditions of the Middle Belt, Moscow Region, North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
Insofar as given view can be grown in areas where winter temperatures are at least -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter hardy varietiesmentioned in the section - "cropping". - In more southern and warmer regions, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.
Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas
Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping.
Since the leaves and flowers large-leaved hydrangea die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid - late October (after the first frosts).
- Hydrangea garden paniculata and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.
Preparing hydrangeas for winter 
Shelter hydrangea for the winter 
Upper layer winter shelter for hydrangea
With short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or double layer films.
Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region
Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea
Young seedlings are not pruned, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or covered with earth and additionally covered with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust for the winter.
When can you open hydrangea after winter?
In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea in the right timeto prevent the shoots from drying out.
The approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.
Hydrangea winter hardiness
Now the large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in conditions middle band Russia and the Moscow region, the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to the different microclimate.
The plant can withstand up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are treelike, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.
The winter hardiness of a plant increases if it received a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilization.
Diseases and pests
Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it still affects powdery mildew, spider mite and aphids (more often indoors).
Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?
We will list the most common reasons for not blooming.
How to speed up hydrangea flowering?
To make the bush bloom faster, sprinkle it as soon as the inflorescences are 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.
How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?
The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.
Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to spend 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, watering begins 50-70 days before flowering.
After that, white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use them carefully. The price of 100 g of alum is about 30-50 rubles.
- If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie in small bunches and hang flowers down in a dark place to dry.
- Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In the fall, she sheds her leaves, for the winter she is pruned and transferred to cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March they are placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
- Experts advise planting ground cover species in the near-trunk circle: stonecrops, bryophyte saxifrage and others.
ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:
1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HORTENSIA: ALL WAYS!
2. TYPES AND THE BEST VARIETIES OF HORTENSIA WITH PHOTOS AND TITLES!
We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!
Hydrangea – perennial shrub with large flower caps of all sorts of shades: from cream to purple. The love of gardeners for him is not accidental. The plant is appreciated for the variety of varieties and species, high decorative characteristics, flowering from mid-summer to the first frost, the ability to grow in partial shade. Now you can buy hydrangea seedlings in Moscow to decorate a garden or plot. Unpretentious green pets adapt without problems in the soil and bloom gorgeous.
Planting hydrangeas
A delicate culture does not tolerate a place in the sun, so you will have the opportunity to ennoble the most darkened and boring parts of the garden. In direct sunlight, the plant does not grow so intensively, and the inflorescences become smaller and become pale. Hydrangea seedlings are planted in early May in partial shade, in the land saturated with organic and mineral fertilizers... At the same time, the plant does not tolerate alkaline soil well. As companions, hydrangea sees with itself shade-tolerant perennials, among which are conifers, aquilegia, hosts.
Care
Ideal for watering rainwater or previously settled. Garden hydrangea watered abundantly in the morning or evening (two buckets each) once a week in the absence of drought.
Hydrangea is weather resistant and reacts painlessly to pruning. Before wintering, the hydrangea is fed and protected with a covering material.
You will not at all regret the decision to buy hydrangea seedlings, because over time the shrub will turn into a real garden queen. Hydrangea will decorate different styles household plots, summer cottages and public park areas, creating a unique landscape design... Call us the best prices on hydrangea seedlings!
