Is it necessary to install heating of the eaves of the roof. Connection diagram for heating for roof and gutters














The article provides information on the correct choice of a reliable heating system for the roof and gutters for your home or summer house. After reading the article, you will receive a lot of useful and important information that will be useful during the construction process and will help to ask the right questions when ordering roof heating. in a construction company and be sure to make the right choice based on the advice and recommendations received in my article.

Roof heating system helps protect the roof from the effects of bad weather in winter

Roof heating and its functions

Now this innovation is only in widespread use. Many people neglect anti-icing work on the roof, because they are afraid of excess energy and money spent on creating the system itself. However, it is worth considering that this approach can lead to an accelerated failure of the roofing cake. This will entail unscheduled repairs, and, consequently, extra financial costs. Let's see how the heating of the roof protects the roof.

So, the use of this system allows you to get rid of systematic ice, which causes significant damage to the structure, violating its waterproofing. By the way, do not hope that timely cleaning will solve the problem. She can not cope with all the moisture accumulating on the roof and gutters. In addition, when heating the roof, you get rid of falling icicles and snow, thereby increasing safety.

There are other ways to combat icing. For example, arranging a special attic ventilation system or treating the roof with anti-icing emulsions. However, all these methods are imperfect, require constant financial costs and take away a large amount of time from you, and also lower the temperature inside the building. Therefore, the best option is proper roof heating.

Installation of the icing channel will help get rid of many problems

What is a roof heating system

It is called differently: snow melting system, heating system or anti-ice. Such a device consists of a large number of sensors, wires, executive and instrumentation, as well as heating elements. Such a complex prevents the formation of icing on the roof surface and prevents excess snow from accumulating.

It is not necessary to heat the entire surface of the roof, therefore, for the installation of heaters, certain places are selected that are most susceptible to ice and snow accumulation, as well as places that can pass moisture into the roofing cake. So the system must necessarily cover the edges of the slopes and the surface of the valley, as well as cover the entire length of the drains.

Important! The roof heating system must be located below the snow retainers. Firstly, this will allow not to spend too much electricity on heating the roof sections that do not require this. Secondly, the melting of the snow cap on the roofs increases the thermal conductivity of the roof cake, which entails accelerated heat loss.

It is also convenient that the cables can be installed after the construction is completed at any free time, because the system is most often located on the surface of the roofing material.

Roof heating cable can be installed at any time

If the heating system of the roof of your house is done correctly and correctly, then you can forget about the snow falling from the roof. Another such device eases the load on the rafter system, which contributes to greater durability of the roofing cake. Additionally, you will get good protection of the drain. After all, there are frequent cases when it cracks from the icy water that has accumulated inside.

By the way, the anti-icing system saves home owners from regular manual cleaning of roofing material.

carrying out roofing works of any complexity on a turn-key basis. You can talk directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

How is the roof heating system

Let's see what are the main elements that make up the system and how they should be located.

An approximate scheme for laying a heating system on the roof

The whole complex of heating equipment usually consists of three main components.

    The heating unit includes a network of single or double heating wires. Also in this paragraph it is worth indicating that a special film can be used as a heating element. It is important that the heating elements meet certain requirements. They must be adapted to sudden changes in temperature, as well as to power surges. The system must also be resistant to excess moisture. If you plan to walk on the roof, then resistance to mechanical damage is a mandatory requirement for a heating unit.

    The information and distribution unit is designed to control the transmission of electricity from the network to the heaters. This part of the system provides information in the form of sensor readings and feeds all the components of the anti-icing complex. It is better to install all the sensors and elements of this unit in places where moisture does not get. For example, in the attic or under the roof overhang.

    The control unit includes temperature controllers, weather sensors, as well as devices that allow you to change the temperature of the roof and supply electricity manually. A variant with a self-regulating control system is possible. Here, there is no need to constantly regulate the operation of the heating complex, and the necessary changes are introduced automatically. In this case, the mini-computer makes decisions based on the readings of weather sensors.

An icing cable is also laid in the drainage channel

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of completing the construction of unfinished houses. You can talk directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

How to choose the right heating system

Such systems differ primarily in the type of heating element. Options with cable or film heaters are possible. The second method has much in common with the “warm floor” system. An important difference is that the film must be located inside the roofing cake, because it is not designed for severe loads and is poorly adapted to mechanical damage. But the cable, on the contrary, can be on the surface of the roofing material. But the wire can fit inside. This is usually used when installing a flat roof heating system, and also when building high-rise buildings. Only cable is used to heat gutters and pipes.

The cable is used for external heating of the roof

Characteristics of different types of heating elements:

This is a matrix with polymer insulation and two wires inside. Also included is a metal braid and an additional layer of insulating material. If it gets warmer outside, the number of conductive paths inside the matrix decreases and as a result, the temperature of the heater decreases. There are many advantages of this type of heater. Firstly, cable installation is quick and does not require much experience. Secondly, the matrix itself is resistant to overlaps and spot heating, thanks to the temperature self-regulation system. Thirdly, you can use such a cable in combination with absolutely any roofing materials. An important plus is that the system selects the optimum temperature and thereby prevents the consumption of excess electricity. It is possible to install such heaters without the use of weather sensors, and also with the help of a self-regulating cable it is possible to heat drains.

Self-regulating wire is most easily mounted on the roof

    Resistance wire

Heating is due to the resistance of the conductor. Such a cable can be two-core and single-core. The insulation is made of a polymer layer, and on higher-quality models, a nichrome core is used. When installing such a cable, you need to pay attention to the fact that both the beginning and the end of each wire must necessarily converge at one point. There is one rather serious minus of such a heating system: in case of point damage, the entire anti-icing complex completely fails. Installation is inconvenient because the resistive cable cannot be cut. This method is suitable for heating large areas of the roof.

The resistive system is more complex, it is better to entrust it to an experienced master

    Film heater

It is a flexible film, with wires made of carbon conductor. This material warms the entire surface, since the conductive strips are often located over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe heater. It is very convenient to transport and store, because such a film is sold in small rolls. This material is fastened only under the roofing, so it can only be used in the case of a roof reconstruction or in the process of construction. The installation of such a heater should be entrusted to specialists. If local damage occurs, the heating system does not fail, but loses efficiency. During the repair process, it is always possible to replace the damaged portion of the film heater. I would like to note that the film is very safe, it does not self-ignite. Uniform heating of the surface gives good energy savings.

The film heater is mounted on the inside of the roof

When choosing materials, you should pay attention to their cost. The most expensive is to use a film heater. Self-regulating cable costs a little cheaper, and the most budgetary option is a resistive wire. But I would like to note that heating the roof using a self-regulating cable is more economical and will give a good profit in the future. Also pay attention to the fact that the installation of an anti-icing system on the roof surface is possible only with snow retainers. Otherwise, the entire network will simply be disrupted by heavy snowfall. Various improvements and options make the entire complex more expensive, but the choice is always yours. Remember that ordering a heating system for the roof should be based on the characteristics of your roof.

The heating system is chosen based on the type and characteristics of the roof

Installation of a roof heating system

First you need to figure out what kind of roof area requires heating. As already mentioned, these are valleys, overhangs and places of accumulation of a large amount of snow and ice, as well as gutters. It is worth paying attention that the benefit of partial heating of the zones in need is much lower than that of roof heating in all problem areas. After you have decided on the area that is worth heating, you need to calculate the required amount of materials and purchase them.

So, after all the materials are selected and purchased, you can proceed with the installation. Below you will find information on how to properly install the entire system.

Experienced hands will not make mistakes when installing the cable heating system of the roof

The first step is to completely clean the entire surface of the roof, as well as drains from debris or leaves. Next, a fixing tape is installed in the necessary places. The next step is the installation of the junction box. It is worth bringing and securing the "cold" end of the cable, previously threaded into the corrugated tube. After completing this procedure, the cable should be laid out inside the gutters, fixing it with the help of the antennae of the fixing tape. Now you need to fix the wire inside the drainpipe. To do this, the cable is attached to the chain, for example, with plastic ties, and the whole system is threaded into the pipe. After that, it is worth securing the upper segment. The bottom edge can be fixed using metal ties. Next, you need to lay out the hinges on the roof surface and fix them using tape antennae for this. If the roof slopes are too steep, then it would be better to add plastic screeds. Now you can install the weather sensors. They should be located on the north side of the building next to the junction box. The next step is to check the entire wire system. The quality of the system can be determined by measuring the resistance in the circuit and comparing the readings with the data specified in the product passport. It remains only to fix the control panel indoors. After the installation is complete, you need to measure the temperature of the system in order to compare it with the data you entered.

Roof heating system structure

Video Description

The installation procedure for heating the roof, gutters and gutters can be found by watching the video:

If the check showed the correct result, it means that the installation of the anti-icing system was performed correctly. In this case, you get a good reliable heating of the roof and gutters. Such a system will increase the life of the roof, and also eliminate the inconvenience associated with the fall of icicles and snow from overhangs.

Conclusion

A competent choice and high-quality installation of the roof anti-icing system will allow avoiding the problem of clogging of drain channels and the destruction of the entire drainage system when the snow leaves the roof. But it is better to entrust the design and installation of roof heating to professionals, because otherwise you can get a system that consumes too much electricity or does not cope with its duties.

On any roof in the winter season icicles or even an icy shaft can form. We find out what tools can be used to eliminate such phenomena.

We offer you a number of technical solutions for heating the roof, which will help to combat icing of the roof and gutters. On almost any roof, icing and icicles can form. This is due to the natural design flaws and is fraught with various consequences: from leaks to damage to the drainage system.

Roof and Gutter Heating Solutions

  • Heating cable selection
  • Electrical equipment
  • Installation of roof heating

Purpose and principle of action

Even in a well-designed roof, thermal protection is not absolute. As snow cover builds up, heat leakage to the atmosphere decreases, the temperature of the roofing increases, which is why it is gradually melting. Flowing down, the water reaches the bottom of the ramp, where it finally freezes, forming an ice wall.

Above this shaft new portions of water gather, the risk of leaks increases, and the snow cap continues to accumulate, increasing the load on the supporting system. At the first thaw, the entire accumulated mass of snow and ice leaves the roof like an avalanche, damaging the drainage system and posing a threat to people and property.

Roof heating is an active measure of protection against icing, the main task of which is to melt the ice that forms and to facilitate the unimpeded removal of melt water. Depending on the roof structure, the specifics of the snow melting system may vary. Conventionally, roofs are classified by the numerical value of heat loss:

  1. Roofs over cold attics or unheated rooms are called cold. The snow cap on them melts only on a sunny day near the exposed sections of the roof, almost no ice forms. Heating of such roofs is required in those cases when the amount of precipitation is large, and independent descent of the cover is impossible due to the small slope. Basically, cold roofs do not heat up.
  2. Roofs over warm attics or attics with good insulation are called moderately warm. This is the most difficult case: snow melts at a low intensity, which is why the thickness of the ice layer is slowly but steadily increasing. The task of the snow melting system is to accelerate the melting of snow, while the system operates in a semi-automatic mode with infrequent, but rather long intervals.
  3. Roofs with poor insulation are conditionally considered warm; snow melting on them is very active. As a rule, the formation of ice is fixed in the lower part of the slopes and drains, therefore, heating elements are placed only in these zones. Their power is quite high, the system operates in intermittent mode.

Heating cable selection

Two types of heating cables are used for roof heating. The first option is a heating section of a fixed length and power, this is the most convenient way to heat gutters and pipes.

There are also self-regulating cables, consisting of two parallel conductive cores, the space between which is filled with a weak dielectric, the resistance of which increases spasmodically when heated to a certain temperature. Thanks to this, the self-regulating cable can be connected by segments of arbitrary length, only the maximum length of the line is limited.


Both types of cable have a rather complicated structure. Heating cores or steam are clad in a heat-resistant shell with good dielectric properties. A shielding braid is wound over the shell - a protective measure in case of damage to the main electrical insulation. The cable is also clad in outer insulation that protects against breakdown and mechanical damage.

The self-regulating cable also has an additional layer under the outer sheath, eliminating the friction of the flat heating core against the outer insulation to maintain shape.

All heating cables are separated by specific power, which can be 15–50 W / mp. Cables up to 20 W / mp use on warm roofs, up to 30 W / mp - in cold areas of moderately warm roofs, up to 50 W / mp - for heating the drainage system.

Electrical equipment

Since the electric heating system is operated in rather harsh conditions, and safety measures are much stricter than when heating outdoor areas, the system requires the use of a number of electrical products and protective devices.

The closest attention is required to electrical connections. In conditions of high humidity and ultraviolet exposure, standard connectors for heating cable do not demonstrate sufficient reliability. Therefore, they are used only for connecting heating cables to each other or in conditions where installation of a protected connection is not possible.

In other situations, the heating cable is connected to the power cable inside the junction box with a degree of protection IP66 via screw terminals. The box is placed below the roof overhang, which slightly increases the consumption of the heating cable, but it guarantees the protection of the weak spot.

The worst that can happen with a heating system is a breakdown of insulation and a short between the conductors or on the metal coating of the roof. Therefore, the circuit breaker for protecting the line is chosen in exact accordance with its power and the current supply voltage.

It is required to select the machine closest in nominal value, and then adjust the thermal splitter according to the instructions. The second stage of protection is an RCD of the fire class, designed for leakage currents of 200-400 mA. For its correct operation, the shielding braids of all heating cables must be reliably grounded.

Self-regulating cable is used in systems with manual activation and does not require the installation of a temperature regulator. The exception is heating systems for roofs of houses that are not designed for permanent residence, or if the goal is to make the heating work fully autonomous.

In such cases, the thermostat turns off the heating when a positive air temperature is reached, and the automation can also use the humidity sensor to determine the presence of precipitation. For heating sections, the installation of a temperature regulator is required, the cut-off temperature is selected in the range of +3 ... + 10 ° С depending on climatic conditions. The temperature sensor is not located in the open air, but is firmly fixed 20–25 mm from the heating element.

Installation of roof heating

The location of cables on cold and warm roofs is different. In the first case, the heating elements rise in parallel lines along the entire length of the slope with a step of 30–40 cm. Such a heating system is used only on flat roofs with a slope of less than 10 °, where it is not possible to separate the snow cap.

In all other cases, only the lower cold edge is heated, where ice accumulates. For warm roofs, the width of the heating strip is equal to the protrusion of the coating beyond the outer plane of the wall.

On moderately warm roofs, the heating is arranged to the width of the overhang and walls plus 10-15 cm. The cable is laid with a triangular snake with a distance between the peaks from 25 to 100 cm, depending on the density of the heating elements.

It is determined by the required specific power of the heated area, which for moderately warm roofs is 250-300 W / m2, and for warm - about 400 W / m2. Depending on the climatic conditions, the manufacturer may give additional recommendations for adjusting the power.

Fastening the cable to the roof with a snake pitch of more than 50 cm is carried out by point clamps, which are attached to the coating with screws or blind rivets. Before fixing, a special sealant is laid between the retainer and the roof. With a fairly frequent snake pitch, mounting is best done on a perforated mounting tape.

It is attached by two parallel lines at the bottom of the ramp and with the required indent from the edge, after which the cable is pressed by bending the cut petals. This method is especially often used on steep slopes, where the probability of the snow cap disappearing is high: the cable will not be damaged, the fasteners will simply be unbent.

Particular attention should be paid to wind overhangs and valleys. At each overhang, the cable should rise from the bottom by 2/3 of the height of the ramp. An excess amount of ice forms in the valleys and gutters, therefore, the specific heating power should be increased by 1.5 times. As a rule, this is achieved by laying two or three parallel lines of the heating cable on both sides of the valley with a step of 10-12 cm.

Gutter anti-icing

With the current system for heating the roof, it is necessary to lay heating cables also in the drainage trays and pipes of the drain. Without this, the melted water will not be able to drain freely, freeze and, most likely, will damage the drainage system.

As a rule, two cables with a specific power of more than 25 W / mp are sufficient for gutters. One of them is laid on the outer side, the other on the bottom of the gutter. Fixing is done on special brackets that are fixed inside the tray with a step of 20-30 cm. If during the operation there is freezing of water in the drain, you can add another heating cable.

Pipes are the most vulnerable part of the drainage system, due to tangling of the cable, plugs may form inside them, and the entire system will become unusable. Therefore, usually for pipes choose cables with a power of up to 50 W / m. with high working temperature. P.S. And remember, just changing our consumption - together we change the world! © econet

In early spring and late autumn, all homeowners are faced with the problem of freezing roof slopes and freezing inside the gutters of melt water. If it is not resolved in a timely manner, the safety of people, as well as the safety of their property, will be threatened by large icicles and frozen clods of snow falling from the roof.

A good solution is the heating of the gutters, which will prevent the formation of ice. In this material we will talk about why you need to equip the drainage system with heating. We will also talk about what materials will be required for this and describe in detail the essence of the process.

In the winter months, frost and heavy rainfall prevail in most regions of our country. As a result, large masses of snow accumulate on the roof. An increase in temperature provokes their first thawing, and later active melting.

During the day, the melted water escapes to the edges of the roof and into the gutters. At night, it freezes, which leads to the gradual destruction of the elements of the roof and gutters.

This pattern is typical for the offseason. If no action is taken, ice and snow will fall to the ground. In this case, the facade, gutters parked at the bottom of the machine may be damaged.

Icicles and conglomerate from frozen snow and ice accumulate on the edges of the roof. From time to time, they break down, threatening the safety of the people below and their property, the integrity of the drainage system and decoration elements of the facade.

All these troubles can be prevented only by ensuring unhindered drainage of melted water. This is possible only if the edges of the roof are heated and.

It happens that in order to reduce the cost of the heating system, it is laid only on the roof surface. The owner is fully confident that this will be enough.

However, it is not. Water will flow into gutters and pipes, where it will freeze at the end of the day, since there is no heating there. Drains will be clogged with ice, so they will not be able to take melt water. In addition, there is a danger of their mechanical damage.

Thus, in order to get a good result, it is necessary to equip the heating of the roof and the gutters surrounding it. In most cases, the heating cable is mounted on the roof cornices, inside the gutters of the drain and in the funnels, at the joints of the roof fragments, along the lines of the valleys.

In addition, heating must be present along the entire length of the drainpipes, in the water collectors and drainage trays.

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Calculation of the heating system

Experts advise choosing cables with a power of at least 25-30 W per meter for the heating system of the roof and gutters. You need to know that heating cables of both types are used for other purposes. For arranging warm floors, for example, but their power is much lower.

Before proceeding with power calculations, you need to decide how all the elements of the system will be heated. The figure shows examples of the possible organization of heating gutters and drains

Power consumption is evaluated in active mode. This is the period when the system is operating at maximum load. It lasts a total of 11 to 33% of the entire period of cold weather, which conditionally lasts from mid-November to mid-March. These are average values, for each area they are different. System power needs to be calculated.

To determine it, you need to know the parameters of the drainage system.

We give an example of calculations for a standard design with a cross section of a vertical drain of 80-100 mm, the diameter of the gutter pipe is 120-150 mm.

  • It is necessary to accurately measure the lengths of all the gutters for water flow and add up the resulting values.
  • The result must be multiplied by two. This is the length of the cable that will be laid along the horizontal section of the heating system.
  • The length of all vertical drains is measured. The obtained values \u200b\u200badd up.
  • The length of the vertical section of the system is equal to the total length of the drains, since in this case one cable line will be enough.
  • The calculated lengths of both sections of the heating system add up.
  • The result is multiplied by 25. As a result, the power of electric heating in the active mode is obtained.

Such calculations are considered approximate. More precisely, everything can be calculated if you use a special calculator on one of the Internet sites. If independent calculations are difficult, it is worth inviting a specialist.

Choosing a place for cable laying

Actually, the heating system for drains is not so complicated, however, in order to work as efficiently as possible, you should lay the cable in all areas where ice forms and in places where the melted snow has melted.

In roofing valleys, the cable is mounted up and down, with a length of two-thirds of the valley. Minimum - 1 m from the beginning of the overhang. For every square meter of valley there should be 250-300 watts of power.

On flat sections of the roof, a fragment of the roof located immediately in front of the catchment is equipped with heating. So melt water will freely flow into the pipe

On the edge of the cornice, the wire is laid in the form of a snake. The snake pitch for soft roofs is 35-40 cm, on hard roofs it is made a multiple picture. The length of the loops is chosen so that no cold zones appear on the heated surface, otherwise ice will form here. The cable is laid on the drip line. It can be 1-3 threads, the choice is based on the design of the system.

The heating cable is mounted inside the gutters. Usually two threads are laid here, the power is selected depending on the diameter of the gutter. Inside the gutters, one heating core is laid. Particular attention should be given to pipe outlets and funnels. Usually, additional heating is required here.

Heating system arrangement technology

We propose to study the detailed instructions for installing the heating system of the roof and gutters with your own hands. The process of installing a heating system for gutters includes a number of standard steps:

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The problem of icing gutters and roofs is encountered in winter, this is especially true in regions that are characterized by sharp temperature changes. Precipitation in the form of snow when the temperature rises above zero begins to melt. When the temperature drops sharply, ice forms in the drain funnels, and icicles begin to hang from the roof. Roof heating can solve this problem.

How it works

With a slight increase in temperature indicators, the melting of ice blocks is not amenable to any control. At the same time, water flows not through a drainpipe, but immediately from the roof surface, falling under a roof slope, onto walls, falling into joints. Of course, this adversely affects the state of the entire building. The roof heating system allows you to get rid of the consequences of this kind of phenomena.

Solution to the problem

To prevent the problem, requires installation on the nodes of the drain and the roof of the heating system. Such equipment operates in a fully automated mode. Their principle of operation is based on heating the electrical conductor when a certain air temperature is reached. The heating process is regulated by an integrated control unit. Most models of such devices are configured to run in the range from -10 to +6 degrees, because it is in this interval that ice formation begins to occur, and roof heating allows you to cope with this trouble.

The functioning of heating the roof and gutters is based on heating the structure by means of electric current. In this case, it is necessary to correctly select the indicators of the rated power of the cable and install it, guided by the requirements of the main instruction. Only in this situation will the equipment be efficient, safe and reliable.

Roof heating helps prevent property damage and many accidents in the winter:

  • injuries due to avalanches from the roof;
  • icicles falling on cars and people, etc.

This system not only leads to the melting of ice and snow masses, but also prevents their formation in gutters and on the roof surface. The equipment in question belongs to the group of security systems. They are now installed on both private and municipal buildings.

Today on the market there are a large number of types of wires for such installations. Both domestic and foreign companies are engaged in their release. The cost of a heating cable produced by a foreign company varies from seven to ten thousand rubles. Russian manufacturers produce at least high-quality products at a price of five to eight thousand per ten-meter segment.

Requirements

The technology of installing a roof heating system is based on the rules for installing electrical equipment, building codes and manufacturer's guidelines. At the same time, special requirements are put forward for such equipment.

The cable power should be at least 20-60 W / m. When choosing a cable for this characteristic, you should pay attention to the climate of the region and the features of the facility being equipped.

In addition, the wire should have a higher insulation category:

  • the product must not be deformed under UV exposure;
  • get too hot in some places;
  • the cable should function reliably both at temperature differences, and in conditions of high humidity of ambient air.

A good cable has a braid made of different materials. It must also have a grounding conductor..

Cable types

On the market now you can find several types of equipment for heating gutters and roofs. These systems can be equipped with two types of cables:

  • resistive;
  • self-regulating.

The first wire heats the same along its entire length. It looks like a wire used to install underfloor heating in rooms. The resistive cable is characterized by high rated power and a special braid. Its price varies from five to eight thousand rubles per ten-meter segment.

Another type is self-regulating. Such a cable may heat up unevenly in different areas. This solution is more thoughtful and modern, therefore its cost will be slightly higher - from eight to ten thousand rubles per ten meters.

Sometimes builders use systems of a combined type. For example, a resistive wire is installed on the roof slopes, and self-regulating inside the gutters.

Resistive Wire Features

This wire is a fairly powerful system.. His veins are often made of nichrome, which quickly heats up under the influence of electric current. Around the nichrome core there are several layers of insulating materials. As a result, the cross section of the wire reaches seven millimeters. Experts do not advise cutting a core that is soldered with a power cable using special technology. That is why the warranty does not apply to damaged wires.

It takes some time for the resistive cable to warm up to a certain value. To control the heat generated, it is necessary to use a thermostat, otherwise the heating system will consume too much electrical energy.

The device for heating the roof and gutters using a resistive cable has many disadvantages. When working, it often happens that on one side of the roof structure the temperature of the system will be higher, and the cable will quickly overheat and lose operability.

In addition, such a system is prohibited to shorten. The area of \u200b\u200bthe gutters and the roof can be uneven, respectively, it will be extremely difficult to choose a cable in size.

All this negatively affects the durability of the resistive system. For installation, you need to additionally buy a thermostat, the cost of which is comparable to the cost of the wire itself. If this device is not included in the system, then the heating will consume too much energy.

Characteristics of the self-regulating line

This type of system is considered more convenient, reliable and modern.. Such a wire includes two conductors made of a metal alloy. Between these conductors is a special coating - a semiconductor. It is he who is responsible for adjusting the ambient temperature.

If it gets too cold outside, then it freely passes electric current through itself. The whole system at the same time begins to heat up more intensively. In the event that it becomes warmer outside the window, the built-in polymer matrix begins to conduct electric current less actively, respectively, the heating level decreases.

The matrix of polymers is surrounded by special insulating materials. For such a system, it is not necessary to have a thermostat, since it will consume just as much electricity as it needs to work. The cable is divided into separate sections, so it can even be extended or shortened.

A heating device using a self-regulating cable has many advantages. Such systems are very durable. They can be used not only for roofs and drains, but also for sewage and water pipes. The cable reacts very accurately to environmental conditions and temperature extremes.

For a self-regulating system, you can not purchase an expensive thermostat. You only need to install the plug on a separate cable, which is connected to a household electrical outlet. The only factor that is not very popular with these systems is high cost, because a resistive cable will cost a lot less.

Installation of a roof heating system

Carrying out the arrangement of a roof with electric heating, you need to consider all its design features. In the event that the roof is devoid of drains, then you can use several installation options.

The cable is laid on special guides. Often they are already included in the package for the cable. If they are not available, then the appropriate set can be purchased at stores of construction and repair goods.

In the event that there is no drainage on the roof and it has a relatively small slope, then you can install the system with a special depression in the center. With a steep slope of the roof, the system is laid in the direction towards the edges from the center. Near each corner, you need to make small holes that will be used to output melt water and a loop of wires.

Cable installation in a drain

Self-regulating wires are often used for drains. The cable must be installed in the lower part of the pipe at least two-thirds of its entire length. The system is fixed using special elements. Cable laying is done in several rows.

If the installation is carried out by installing a resistive wire, it must be borne in mind that it is forbidden to bend too much, otherwise the core inside can be easily damaged. The distance between the individual turns should be 4-6 cm.

Control unit selection

Connecting the system using an automatic temperature and humidity controller is considered the most justified option. Thanks to the built-in sensors, the system does not require human participation.

An automatic control unit and self-regulating type wires can save on electricity and increase the efficiency of the entire system. Connecting a manual control unit will cost much less, but such a system will need constant monitoring and attention in depending on the weather on the street.

Combined system

Some professional and private builders use two types of cables at the same time. In this situation, a self-regulating wire is taken for drains, and the remaining elements and roof surfaces are heated by a resistive type.

This option allows you to save a lot on installation, since a resistive cable is much cheaper than a self-regulating one. The service life and the quality level of heating of such a system will be much higher than when using exclusively resistive cable. At the same time, the owners of the building will be able to optimize the cost of electric energy.

Together with the first invigorating frost, Russian winter brings many problems: tons of snow on the roofs, ice and icicles falling on the head. But ice on the roof is not only a risk for people standing below to get seriously injured, but also the constant destruction of drains and gutters. Not to mention the fact that large loads of snow or ice can even create distortions and destruction of the roof. Arm with a shovel or equip a professional heating of the roof of your house? Let's decide together!

Designing an anti-icing system is a rather complicated engineering task. It is important to consider many factors, from the configuration of the roof to the location of all the protrusions and peaks. But, having approached this process responsibly and carefully having studied this article, you will be able to personally install the cable on the roof of your house.

Are you curious to know why icicles form on the edge of the roof? And where do they come from in the winter, because for this the snow needs to melt?

The thing is that snowflakes, falling on a relatively warm roof, melt and simply flow down. Gradually, they overcome a surface warmer in temperature and fall on a very cold cornice, which is located outside the building and no longer receives heat from it. This is where the water freezes, forming large icicles. And they already give us so many problems.

The formation of an “ice shell” on the roof indicates a serious temperature difference between the heated part of the roof and the unheated cornice. And there may be several reasons for this.

Reason # 1. Improper thermal insulation

Note that put on the roof - most often due to improper insulation. So, if the heat loss of a house goes to a large extent through the roof (due to the lack of normal thermal insulation), then the same heat slightly heats the snow on the roof. And that, as you already understood, creates the main problems.

And, if ice on the roof is a sign that the roofing cake was designed incorrectly, then literally in two or three years it will all come sideways: decaying insulation, mold on the walls and the smell of dampness. That is why, ideally, a properly equipped roof does not need heating, because no ice forms on it. Unless the weather is naughty.

Reason number 2. Climate features

According to the meteorologist, during the winter, on average in Russia, up to 70 temperature jumps are recorded over the 0 ° C mark! But such fluctuations just cause the most problems. So, the air quickly heats up and quickly cools, the snow begins to thaw - and immediately turns into ice.

Severe frosts during the night are replaced by a thaw, and then an unexpected minus temperature. A familiar picture? Is the weather like that in that area? Thaws are especially problematic when in one day the street temperature can easily turn out on both sides of the zero mark. As a result, the roof snow melts during the day, and quickly freezes at night.

Reason number 3. Sophisticated roof construction

The turrets, internal corners, collars and horizontal platforms add to its difficulties. All of them form an additional snow cover, which causes even more problems. Why do designers recommend for Russian latitudes to prefer a simple roof shape with an angle of inclination of 30 °, and in Europe let them fantasize, they don’t have so much snow.

How is all this dangerous for the roof?

So why beware? Already the first water frozen on the cornice forms an ice dam, in front of which water continues to accumulate. According to invisible physical laws, the liquid now begins to move upward along the seams of the roofing joints, as water moves in communicating vessels (these are the ones that are used as a construction hydraulic level). And this in turn becomes a cause of leaks!

Moreover, ice manages to form not only on the roof, but also in gutters, and even in vertical drainpipes. And, if melt water is no longer possible due to the gutter clogged with ice, it begins to flow under the roofing. And there moisture will always find access to the insulation and interior space: holes on the waterproofing film after the stapler, small tears, damage, joints with roofing elements. The result - rotten rafters, raw insulation and propagation of the fungus in the attic.

In addition, if you have ever encountered broken gutters, be aware that this is the work of the usual donned and melted snow when there is no protective anti-icing system.

Also, if there is no snow on the roof, because it constantly thaws and slides down, then the roofing itself will eventually be subject to constant cycles of freezing and thawing. And this is a tangible reduction in the life of the roofing. Moreover, the soft roof suffers the most, which loses its stone chips and clogs it with weirs, ceramic tiles burst, and water eventually flows under the rolled roof. Even metal is torn from ice.

That is why roof heating is necessary for any building, and not just where icicles threaten to fall on the head of the townspeople. Moreover, modern technical solutions are quite simple and accessible to everyone.

Why not just dump the snow?

Note that today the mechanical method of combating ice and icicles is actively used - this is a shovel, crowbar and scraper. It would seem that it is simpler: knocking all this wealth off the roof, and you're done. No electrical systems, cables or hot water pipes are needed. But in fact, the disadvantages of this method completely cover all its advantages:

  • From frozen ice gutters clog and gutters deteriorate.
  • When cleaning the roof, it is easy to scratch the roof, which will quickly lead to corrosion.
  • During snow cleaning, a person often moves down the roof with it.

In addition, the gutters themselves are dangerous with ice. They become too heavy and at one point can simply collapse on the head of people standing nearby. And this is not to mention how expensive repairs can expect you.


Why put heating and what are the options?

There are three reasons to install a special heating system on the roof:

  1. The safety of people, animals and personal property that may fall into the area under icicles and ice blocks. Agree, it’s a shame not only to get a concussion from a rolling block of ice, but also to beat your favorite car.
  2. Reducing the weight load on the roof and the entire building that ice can create.
  3. Preservation of the integrity of the roof and drainage system, protection against destruction due to the formation of ice.

But let's deal with some individual concepts.

Roofs on which both snow and ice melt at a temperature of -10 ° C are called "warm". So they just have problems with icing and can’t do without additional heating. If the ice on the roof melts even at a lower temperature, such a roof is called "hot", and a conventional cable heating system may already be insufficient.

In order to get rid of ice on the roof, today apply the following methods:

  • The rarest type of roof heating today is electric-pulse systems. For them, expensive equipment is needed, which pays off in only a few years, due to a sufficiently small electricity consumption. But gutters and gutters in this way can not be protected from ice.
  • Roof heating with a heating cable is the most modern and safe way to get rid of ice. With such a system it is convenient to heat not only the edge of the roof, but also the gutters and drains, moreover, of the most complex construction.
  • The third way - applying special emulsions to the roof, which prevent icing. But emulsions are not cheap, and they must be applied to the roof in one winter several times.

The most popular is the electric heating of the roof and the connected drains, which will be discussed further.


Arrangement of electric heating of the roof and gutters

So, the simplest and most popular solution to the problem is to warm the cornices with a snake. For 1 meter of cornice, it will be necessary to install 6-8 meters of cable in order to achieve a power of about 180 W / m per square.

There is also a more economical solution developed by some modern companies: copper or steel sheets are mounted under the cable, which is less efficient. Such an installation is enough to work with a power of 30 W / m, because heat will be distributed from the cable by 25-30 cm. And in total, energy consumption will be reduced by 6-8 times, which is quite significant for a private house. Note that such heating systems are also an order of magnitude fireproof.

The essence of this system

The roof heating system consists of the following elements:

  1. The cable is heating.
  2. Automation.
  3. Additional elements for fastening.
  4. Power distribution network.

The heart of a heating cable is a heating matrix, and different manufacturers give its different service life.

Selection of necessary equipment

A complex automatic system involves the location in the most critical places of sensors that can monitor the temperature and automatically turn on the heating when there is a risk of ice formation. Moreover, they can track not only temperature, but also humidity. That is why an automatic system, although it is 20% more expensive than a conventional resistive cable, saves energy itself.

But for the question, which cable is better - resistive or self-regulating - there is no definite answer. The fact is that it is economically more profitable to install a resistive cable on roofs of a simple design, because complex automation is not necessary for it: we just configure the cable system to the desired temperature range. But roofs with different slopes, dormers and other structural elements, the resistive system is no longer effective - you need a self-regulating one. Although a self-regulating cable can also be cut into pieces right during installation, why the whole heating system with it is much easier to design.

Of course, situations are not uncommon when on the same roof it is necessary to combine as many as two systems in order to achieve the desired result.

Subtleties of installation

It is better to fix the heating system in the warm season. Next, we will talk about heating a flat and pitched roof separately.

The easiest heating is a flat roof with parapets and internal funnels. In this case, it is enough to heat only the funnels themselves or the drainpipes.

Here, the cable must already be installed in all external pipes. If there is an overflow from different levels of the roof, then we heat both the overflow site and the likely path of meltwater to the nearest water intake.

The heating cable is laid in all gutters and downspouts along the perimeter of the roof. In addition, you can install a heating system in such problematic places as the valley and difficult parts of the roof.


If there is no drainpipe or gutter along the edge of the roof, then just hang one cable thread under the roof - it will “cut” the icicles.

Note that the mounted gutters have to be heated less than the built-in ones - just take this into account when designing a house.

In addition, it is safer to attach the cable to a special tape that keeps the roofing intact:

How to choose quality accessories?

There are two main indicators that characterize the quality of the heating cable. So, this is the power at rest, which is measured at an air temperature of 0 ° C and the working power, which is measured in ice, at its temperature of 0 ° C. Typically, both of these indicators manufacturers point directly to the heating cable.

Unfortunately, over time, power always decreases, and the worse the cable in quality - the faster. A decrease in the power of the heating cable always leads to the fact that the heating system is doing worse and worse with its functions. Only the most expensive cables are capable of not changing their power for 10 years.

But take into account such subtleties. So, a foreign manufacturer usually indicates the power of the cable at a network voltage of 240V, while in Russia it is 220V. And, therefore, the power of such a cable is actually less than 10%, which is important for accurate calculations. Therefore, it is better to purchase heating cables of such companies that develop their products also specifically for Russia. Note that often designers are safe and advise the buyer to install a more powerful cable than necessary.

For your own safety, try to use original accessories from the same manufacturer as the cable. Moreover, it is necessary to demand this from suppliers who are always striving to save. Even better is to contact the official representative directly: they are easy to find on the Internet and you can immediately order a professional installation from them.

It is important that the outer sheath of the cable is resistant to ultraviolet rays and does not deteriorate over time.

The main thing is to avoid mistakes!

And now let's look at all the most annoying installation errors of the heating cable, which can easily lead to problems.

Error number 1. Rough installation

If you attach the cable carelessly, it can easily be broken in several places. Because of this, the entire heating system is ultimately destroyed.

Mistake # 2. Mobility

If the cable is movable due to the fact that it is attached only to the mounting tape - this will not last even two years. And all because the mechanical impact of snow and ice will constantly be exerted on it.

Mistake # 3. Wrong hardware

The heating cable for the roofs cannot be fastened with the tape used for the installation of underfloor heating. The clamps used are completely unsuitable for fastening the cable, and easily unbend under the pressure of the moving snow. Why then are clamps used for floors? This is a temporary measure, and their function ends when the floors are poured with cement screed.

Also not suitable for this purpose is a special plastic fastener for cables, if it is mounted on a click. For several years, such a mount will crumble from fragility due to ultraviolet rays. And even more so, it is impossible to fix white plastic ties - only black, and only from a good manufacturer. Conventional couplers are not for roofing, of course, cheaper, and visually hold the cable no worse, but they will not live more than one winter.

Mistake number 4. Excessive mounting holes

Any hole in the roof, even well sealed with sealant, begins to leak over the years. Therefore, it is absolutely wrong to strive to secure the cable as tightly as possible.

Error No. 5. Incorrect cable insulation

If a heat shrink tube is installed on the tip of the heating cable and crimped with pliers, then when the wire is heated, the tightness will be lost. Imagine the consequences?

Mistake number 6. Lack of cable

The heating cable, of course, can be lowered into the drainpipe without a cable, but the thermal expansion and the severity of the ice will do the trick - the system will break.

Error No. 7. Using the wrong cable

Power cables that are not intended for laying specifically on the roof can not be used: the system will be constantly turned off, and electric shock to those who touch it cannot be ruled out.

It is also not necessary to lay the cable where it is not necessary - on the roof guard, for example. This is just an extra expenditure of energy, and not more.

That's all the difficulties!