How to grow standard gooseberries? How to give a gooseberry a standard shape.

20 years ago I met my colleague and friend Roman Vrublevsky. and he, in turn, introduced me and many other gardeners and nurserymen to outlandish horticultural crops at that time - standard currants and gooseberries.

It was really new! Most of us, nurserymen, both large and small, had a standard set of seedlings, and Roman put up currant and gooseberry trees, in which the crown began at a height of 1 m.

The effect was obvious.

The people crowded, made noise, were interested and bought! Roman had to go home for seedlings twice a day.

Standard trees

Some of the experienced colleagues immediately began to criticize the novelty, and someone, including me, became very interested in this matter.

Critics said:

“Why plant such trees, because they give a much smaller yield than ordinary bushes, and besides, they cost four times more?” Roman, in turn, told clients about the benefits: Such currant and gooseberry trees are not only useful, but also very decorative. Under them, you can grow something else, such as strawberries or plant some flowers, and they give a slightly smaller crop - 90-70% of the yield from an ordinary bush. In addition, you don’t need to bend down for berries, and the kids will have to pull themselves up. ”

And then I realized - both of them are right. The fact is that if your goal is a berry plantation, then standard currants or gooseberries will not be useful to you - ordinary bushes are needed here. However, if you are also concerned about the aesthetic side of gardening, if you need a garden not only to satisfy physical needs, but also to enjoy beauty, then standard forms will be simply irreplaceable.

Thus, we plant currants not at the back of the garden or vegetable garden, we don’t hide it, but, on the contrary, we put it on display - it’s really beautiful, and even tasty! A row of such plants along the path or a separate and fruitful tree in the middle of a flower garden will always please the eye and soul.

But I must immediately bring some clarity to the question, what is standard currant a. The fact is that many gardeners think that the stem trees of black, red, golden or gooseberry currants are such varieties. No. I will briefly tell you how we grow such plants.

Cultivation of standard currant - grafting

At a height of 1 m, we graft any variety of currant or gooseberry onto a long rooted shoot of golden currant variety Brecht. We have queen cells for growing such rootstock shoots. The main advantage of this rootstock is that it practically does not give basal shoots. Thus, the tree will always stand with one trunk.

At the beginning of his career, Roman vaccinated the common golden currant, and it gave a lot of shoots. Therefore, gardeners had to be instructed in detail so that they would not forget to remove the shoots, both root and from the trunk. The new stock completely solved this problem.

However, if you do not have this rootstock, then you can graft on any variety of golden currant. You just have to remove the root shoots in the first 2-3 years. I will immediately make a reservation that the method of grafting is only copulation (not budding!).

Of course, abundantly fruiting trees will require constant supports. It can be a metal tube or a bamboo peg that will help the tree to keep upright. If the crop is too large, which happens quite often, then in order to avoid a break on such a support, you can make a chatalow and use it to tie up too heavy branches.

My wish to nurseries to the waters: grow seedlings of standard currant and gooseberry - this is still a novelty in many regions. By the way, I’ll immediately share the idea: Roman grows rootstocks with a forked top and grafts on each different grade. Thus, a two-varietal tree is obtained - for example, red and white currants or red and white gooseberries. It's even more interesting!

And I wish amateur gardeners to experiment - to acquire or graft and grow their own standard forms, including two-varietal ones. By the way, we have not yet tried to plant, for example, blackcurrant and gooseberry on one tree at the same time. Experiment!

Our dacha

In addition, bushes formed on stems are easily ventilated and are less at risk of contracting diseases. And if the soil around the trunk is covered with opaque mulching material (for example, roofing material, spunbond, black film), weeding can be eliminated. But is there negative sides this culture? Not without it.

Firstly, the technology for the production of seedlings is complex and requires long, painstaking work. Therefore, they are grown little and, of course, they are always more expensive than ordinary one-year-olds. The most common method of growing berry bushes on trunks consists of the following steps. First, ordinary standard seedlings are grown for several years to create powerful plants. Then they cut off the entire aerial part from them. Of the mass of shoots that appeared after this, one, the strongest, is left. In the spring of next year, all the kidneys are removed on this stem, except for the top 5-6. From the resulting shoots lay the skeletal branches of the future crown (bush).

Secondly, if ordinary gooseberry bushes can be covered with snow in winter, then the bushes on boles are above the snow cover in the most frost-prone zone. In this regard, a careful selection of varieties in relation to specific local conditions is important. Our long-term tests in the conditions of the North-West of Russia showed that the varieties Smena, Russian yellow, Russian red, Seyanets Lefora, known here, after severe winters, had no damage and abundant fruit, and annual growths of the high-yielding variety Kolobok froze not only on boles from golden currants, but also in the mother liquor on ordinary bushes.

Another method for the production of standard gooseberry seedlings is based on grafting a variety onto a golden currant stem. Such seedlings were grown in Russia more than a century and a half ago. But gradually they forgot about it. The fact is that in the garden the rootstock itself forms a mass of shoots and it takes a lot of effort and time to systematically remove it. At present, the culture of the grafted gooseberry is being revived again thanks to breeders who have developed rootstock forms that do not give shoots. This method has its positive and negative sides. Thus, the period of production of grafted seedlings is reduced to 2 years in comparison with the first method, which requires 4 to 5 years.

The technological chain consists of the following links. In a special rootstock mother liquor, annual growths up to one and a half meters high are grown, they are rooted and a variety is grafted on the upper part. However, some varieties show signs of lack of compatibility. In addition, the phenophases of development often do not coincide in gooseberries and golden currants. This is reflected in the survival rate of the vaccine components. The varieties mentioned above turned out to be quite productive in the grafted culture.

It should be noted that the first method is used when growing standard red currant, and the second - roses on wild rose, Japanese quince on pear seedlings. The technique of planting seedlings is common. A strong stake is driven into the bottom of the landing pit, which is better to use metal pipes or fittings. To align and give a vertical position, the stems are tied to a stake in several places. At the same time, not only the stem, but also the bush is fixed on the support with the upper garter.

The formation of the bush is to create a compact crown by trimming and uniform distribution branches around the center (stem). Annual growths are shortened, the growing shoots are directed to the sides, free from branches, tied to the part of the stake protruding above the bush.

Plant care is almost normal, characteristic of the gooseberry breed. Some flower growers next to the standard gooseberry (outside the mulch circle) plant undersized annual flowers or ground cover perennials. As experience has shown, such a neighborhood does not harm any of them.

The life span of stem forms is short, less than 10-12 years, besides the plants on the stem require constant care.

For more details, see: http://www.nkj.ru/archive/articles/4061/ (Science and life, GARDENER - NOTE. SUMMARY. FEBRUARY 2006 No. 2)

2 Tip Source - http://vodospad.kiev.ua/

A standard gooseberry is obtained by grafting a valuable variety into a golden currant stem (later also yoshta; as a standard former, yoshta grows faster, does not give shoots, but is less drought- and frost-resistant). The stem is grown for 1-2 years from lignified (or green) cuttings, vertical cuttings or offspring that golden currant can produce.

Lignified cuttings (20-22 cm long, with 5-6 buds) are cut in autumn (September - October 15) with their subsequent planting, or at the end of winter with storage in the cold, in a moist substrate, until warm days.

The cuttings cut in winter before planting are kept in water for 5-6 days, after planting they are covered with a film until the buds open. Later, they create optimal conditions for their good growth. Desired stem thickness 5-6 mm, height 100-120 cm.

Varieties with straight, strong shoots ( Neslukhovsky, Donetsk first-born ) are grafted onto a trunk at a height of 80-100 cm, and with arched ones (Krasen, Date) - at a height of 130-150 cm. The latter look especially elegant, resembling a miniature weeping willow.

Vaccination is carried out different ways: greenhouse in winter, spring and summer in open field . However, it is best to graft gooseberries in early spring at a temperature of 10ºC, when the plants enter the growing season. Best way- improved copying.

The thickness of the cuttings of the scion should correspond to the thickness of the rootstock. Cuttings are harvested in winter and stored in the cold (you can store it as recommended for stone fruit Taranenko L.I. in "Dachnik" No. 2). The stalk is grafted from 3 buds, the cuts are made long, even, 4-5 times longer than the thickness. Spikes are cut off for ease of use.

After about a month, the strapping is loosened, later removed. The stock is tied to a peg, and the next year the scion is also tied up (for this purpose, it is convenient to use rubber strips from a bicycle chamber, tying it with a “figure of eight”).

Inoculation can also be performed in the summer (July - September) during the separation of the bark. Cuttings are taken from plants at the same time, fully matured, removing leaves and thorns. Above the 3rd kidney, they shorten and perform a lateral inoculation in accordance with all the rules.

On the stem, the shoots that appear are systematically pinched. The rest of the stock is cut off in August, and the place of the cut is covered with pitch. When the shoots on the scion reach a length of 10 cm, they are pinched to create a crown.

Grafting can also be done by eye budding with part of the wood in July-August.

The crown of the standard gooseberry is formed round or slightly hanging down. The grown branches annually, for three years, are shortened by half. In the future, the aged ones are cut out and thinned out. With proper care, plants can produce beautiful, tasty and large berries and bear fruit for 10 years.

In the Czech Republic, Hungary, standard gooseberries are grown on industrial plantations using winter grafting. Such plants are less susceptible to diseases, soil cultivation, pruning and harvesting are simplified.

The berries on such trees are larger, better colored, sweeter. In Poland, it is grown in household plots, using budding, picking up for rootstock best forms golden currant.

In the magazine "House, Garden, Garden" No. 3/93, agronomist Karabut S.A. a method of growing gooseberries on their own low trunk is described. Its essence is as follows. Before planting, the strongest shoot is left on the seedling, the rest are removed.

The kidneys are also removed to a given stem height (20-30 cm), 3-4 are left, the top is cut off. The following year, in the spring, the developed branches are shortened by half, into a lateral or apical bud.

A bush that has 4 skeletal, cross-placed branches and 12-15 semi-skeletal ones is considered to be formed. In the future, in the summer (end of June), all growths of the current year are shortened to 4-5 leaves. Over the years, the skeletal branches gradually rejuvenate by transferring to a well-developed semi-skeletal branch.

Planting and growing vegetables and fruits, caring for the garden, building and repairing a summer house - all with your own hands.

Growing gooseberries, currants and shadberries on a bole

How to grow berry bushes (currants, gooseberries, etc.)

The idea of creating standard forms came to us from Europe, where the set of crops cultivated in this way is wider and considerable experience has been gained.

We will talk about our experience, describing the technique of forming standard plants.

At the All-Russian Research Institute of Horticulture. I.V. Michurina, E.Yu. Koveshnikova, the author of a number of excellent gooseberry varieties, studies the stem forms on the currant, T.V. Zhidekhina, the author of a whole galaxy of varieties of this crop, on non-traditional crops, aronia and irge, standard forms are studied by N.V. Khromov. All these scientists are similar in one thing: they are sure that standard plants are the future, first of all, of ornamental plantings.

There are two main ways by which you can get a plant on a trunk.

The first is shaping into one trunk with the removal of all side shoots, and when the trunk reaches the required height, a “bush” is formed at the top, pinching the shoots.

The second method is grafting on a standard former, which is usually used as golden currant (an ideal stock for currants and gooseberries) and mountain ash (chokeberry and shadberry are grafted onto it).

This method is less expensive in terms of physical labor, and the plants are more expressive.

What are good stamps?

First of all, the plant looks very decorative, but not only. Sweeter and tastier fruits ripen on the bole due to better crown lighting, and the plants get sick less - for the same reason.

Shtambs are used both in single and in group plantings. You can form whole ensembles with the interweaving of traditional plants, flower crops and standard forms.

Currants and gooseberries on a bole

Any currant colors and the easiest way to turn gooseberries into a standard form is by grafting.

Golden currant is used as a rootstock. Most often, the stock is grown from seeds; already in the 3rd year, the seedlings are ready for grafting. You can graft both in winter (carrying out this procedure on rootstocks dug out of the ground), and in early spring, during the first sap flow (in open ground). I prefer the second method, and the percentage of survival in this case is higher.

The grafting is carried out by the method of improved copulation, leaving 3-4 buds on the scion handle.

Isolate the stalk with plastic tape. Usually, after a few days, the buds awaken, and young growths appear that are actively growing. It is important to remove the harness in time in order to prevent constrictions, and install a support peg that will prevent the fragile stem from breaking from a gust of wind.

In the future, the plant needs to be monitored - remove weeds in trunk circle and tidy up the crown, removing shoots that thicken it, as well as dried and diseased ones.

Aronia and irga on the trunk.

These crops are good because they do not require support at all, they do not need unsightly pegs, the stock (rowan), and therefore the trunk is very resistant to gusts of wind of almost any intensity. The only drawback of such plants is the formation of root growth, and it will have to be removed annually. Rowan is used as a rootstock for both of these crops. Rootstocks are grown from seeds and can be grafted as early as the 4th year. Grafting is carried out early in the spring, during the period of active sap flow, by cuttings in the way of improved copulation. The survival rate, as a rule, is close to 100%, and the growth activity is so high that you will get the first fruits in the year of vaccination!

As in the case of currants, it is important to remove the film in a timely manner, and when the shoots start to grow, you will need to monitor the crown: in shadberry, for example, it thickens very quickly, which can lead to the transition of the crop to the periphery and its decrease, but chokeberry in this regard, it is more “calm”, you can start thinning out the crown in the fourth or fifth year from the start of shoot growth.

From the editor. In the southern regions, plants on boles grow quite successfully, but in middle lane and even more to the north, such a formation should be treated with caution. As you know, in winter the coldest air is at the surface of the snow, and the graft can be just at this height.

For example, in the Moscow region in January, the average cover height is about 50 cm. It is desirable that the crown of a stem plant be at least half a meter from the snow surface. Therefore, when vaccinating, place it at a height of 1-1.2 m from the ground. In other regions, the height of the inoculation may vary.

Somewhere plants may need shelter, somewhere - bending down for the winter. In a word, such a shaping method is still waiting for its test gardeners.

In the photo above, standard forms of white currant, black currant, gooseberry and shadberry

Currant on stem

We offer a new way of growing currant bushes, gooseberries and others. Productivity increases due to better illumination of this type of bush i.e. in one trunk, it turns out a column of solid berries, just beautiful!

I want to try in the form of a column, so that the berries would hang from below to a height of 1.5 m - 2 m. I will definitely do it. By the way, you can drive with more than one stem, but twist several stems in the form of a braid, as a result, I think it will be even more beautiful and there will be more berries. God himself ordered to try to grow gooseberries in this way, because these thorns are just tin, but it is probably better to form gooseberries in the form of a tree. It's like this:

standard currant

In Europe, and in recent years in Russia, currants and gooseberries are increasingly grown not in bushes, but in standard form. And this, judging by the responses and some personal experience, provides significant advantages over traditional cultivation. They consist in facilitating the care of plants and harvesting from them, in the enlargement and improvement of the quality of berries due to better illumination; in addition, the berries acquire a kind of decorative effect. To achieve such a reconstruction of the berry garden is quite simple, and you can not even resort to time-consuming vaccinations.

You can form a tree not only currants, but also gooseberries

Such a miracle - the tree looks very beautiful on the site near the house or along the paths when they are planted in the form of an alley.

Any variety of black, red and white currants can be grown as a tree.

The benefits of stamping bushes. Branches with berries will not adjoin the ground, which means they will hurt less.

The soil under the tree is easy to cultivate, you can even plant phytoncidal and pest-repelling plants (garlic, leaf celery, coriander, geranium, marigolds, marigolds, etc.), while there will be no room for weeds.

It will also be much more convenient to collect berries. It is easier to protect such a plant from pests that overwinter in the soil; a trap belt can be put on the stem.

Minuses. The plant will be tall and will not be completely covered with snow in winter, which is somewhat risky for some regions; with spring return frosts and strong cold winds, such currants will be less protected.

It is also important: the currant tree will require constant timely care, pinching and cutting branches.

And growing currants in the form of a tree begins like this.

1. In early August, you need to plant a thick bare summer shoot of the desired length and pinch its top.

2. In the second year, few branches grow in its upper part; in August, its tops also need to be pinched. All leaves and twigs that appear below the intended crown must be immediately pinched off in the same way as the shoots from the root.

3. For the third summer, the crown will already be quite dense. All its branches must be pinched, all branches growing below the crown and from the root, destroyed. In this third summer, the tree will already give a small harvest.

4. In the fourth summer, fruiting will be more abundant. Our trunk will take shape, it will be thick, healthy with a glossy sheen. And in the fourth summer, pinching the shoots is done in the same way as in previous years. Since this year, all black rough branches are cut out in the crown - these are old branches.

I must say that the life of such a currant tree is about 3-4 years longer than that of an ordinary currant bush, that is, it can last 15-18 years. It must be remembered that every year it is necessary to cut the shoots below the trunk, from the root and cut out the old branches.

In addition to currants, such a tree can be made from gooseberries.

Standard gooseberry

Standard cultivation of gooseberries, i.e. in the form of a tree with one main trunk, it is very easy to care for the plant, and in particular watering and loosening the soil, as well as harvesting. At the same time, the berries become larger, and since all the branches and fruits on the trunk are well lit and ventilated, the risk of plant disease with fungal and other diseases is significantly reduced.

How to properly form a standard gooseberry? It all starts with the usual planting of a gooseberry bush in a bright, sunny place. In the first year, the bush can grow up to 4 branches, grow empty until they do not need to be touched because the bush must form a powerful root system. Therefore, it needs to be fed and watered.

In the second year, we allow the bush to grow freely until harvest (if it gives you berries in the second year), while young replacement shoots begin to appear at the base of the bush. Of these, you need to choose only one, the strongest and most powerful, and the rest should be removed while they are small and green. After harvesting, it is necessary to immediately cut out all last year's shoots at ground level, and only the replacement offspring left by you should grow. It is he who will become the stem of the gooseberry trunk. With its good feeding and watering, the trunk of this shoot will grow to 1-1.5 m. It must be tied to reliable support(peg, armatere, etc.).

Next year, this shoot will produce a crop of large berries, so let this trunk grow freely until harvest. During the season, all root shoots must be removed, and on the main stem-stem after harvesting, all side branches can be shortened, leaving only 1 bud, from which side shoots will develop by autumn. Although you can shorten the side branches only in the fall, leaving 5-6 buds on them.

For 3-4 years, a powerful root system is formed at the gooseberry, so 1-2 replacement offspring are left in the spring to replace the aged main stem, which, after harvesting, is cut to the ground. In the future, do this annually. And if you have a powerful gooseberry bush with a good root system, then it can be formed with 2 or even 3 trunks. Care comes down to cutting out all the thickening branches at the base of the stem, and caring for 1-2-3 replacement offspring that have grown since spring, while all other green shoots must be constantly removed. All old branches after harvesting must be cut to the ground. Mandatory fertilizing and watering the bush, as well as loosening and mulching the soil ...

To form a gooseberry trunk on golden currant, gooseberries must be grafted onto 1-2-year-old shoots of golden currant. This can be done by copulation or saddle at the end of summer, when gooseberries are grafted on a young shoot of golden currant, tied to a support (stake) to give straight vertical growth. Gooseberries are grafted at a height of 40 to 100 or more cm, depending on the power of the rootstock (currant). Mature annual shoots are used as rootstock cuttings, from which the leaves are almost completely removed: only part of the leaf plate is left on each cutting. The strapping from the grafted stock is removed only in the fall ...

In the spring of next year, the excess part of the stock is cut off over the accustomed cuttings of the gooseberry scion. The shoots of golden currant on the stem are all removed, and 3-5 shoots are left on the gooseberries to form the crown of the stem. If the grafted cutting has formed one or two shoots, then in June they are pinched to develop the crown ...

How to get a super crop of raspberries and currants?

How to get super crops of raspberries, currants, gooseberries, cherries?

Amateur gardener Mikhail Rudenko from Moscow has invented a way to increase the yield of raspberries by 10 times and currants by half.
An increase in yield is achieved in raspberry bushes in the second year, in currant bushes in the third year.

“... To achieve a 10-fold yield of raspberries, on June 30 of each year, I pinch off the upper, germinal bud of young shoots that have risen to a height of at least 30 cm. After this procedure, by autumn, a future fruiting brush grows from each bud located at the base of the leaf new summer.
In spring and summer, currant cuttings also pinch off the upper germ bud, at the moment when it has reached a height of 20 cm. The twigs grown from this bud next spring should also bud off when they reach a length of 10 cm. At the end of the season, new shoots will grow from the buds at the base of these twigs, which will be super-fruitful the next, the third year after the first operation.
In subsequent years, the bush should no longer be pruned, and the size of currant berries increases after these procedures by 1.5 times.

How to increase the yield of currants

If currants (white, red, black) bloom profusely in your area, and then the ovaries fall off, then poor pollination of flowers may also be the cause. To avoid this, you need to take 1 tablespoon of natural honey, dissolve in 1 liter of water and spray the bushes with this solution during their flowering. This attracts bees, which will accordingly provide excellent pollination, which in turn will affect the increase in yield.
This method can be used for other plants as well.

It is possible to significantly improve the water-air regime in the soil, in order to obtain higher yields, in the following simple and cheap way.

Under a currant or gooseberry bush, a hole is obliquely made a little deeper than the root system (with a hose with water pressure, a small-diameter drill or a crowbar), a pipe segment (or irrigation hose) is inserted into it. A container with water is fixed above the hose, which should continuously drip into it 1-2 liters per day, depending on the weather.
In this case, the yield can increase several times. So, the weight of a pumpkin grown by me in this way in 1999 exceeded 40 kg.

Is it possible to rapidly propagate currants?

Can. In autumn, when caring for bushes black currant it is necessary to select branches and cut cuttings 20 cm long from them. They are planted to a depth of about 15 cm in the grooves of well-cultivated and fertilized sandy soil (about 80 cuttings per 1 running meter), sprinkled with earth, while only two buds are left on the surface. Then a frame is made of slats or perches. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, the frame is covered with a film in two layers. Cuttings are watered often enough. In early June, in the evening or in the afternoon in cloudy weather, the cuttings are dug up. Those of them that have good roots are planted on a bed at a distance of 25 cm from one another. During the summer, weeding, loosening the soil and top dressing (if possible with liquid mullein) are carried out. When the growth of the cuttings reaches 20 cm, pinching is done for the appearance of branches. In September, for better wood maturation, pinching the tops of all shoots is carried out. Planted in the fall in a permanent place, the next year they already bear fruit.

How to get two raspberry crops a year?

This requires remontant varieties (September, Lyulin, Heritage), which have the ability to bear fruit on the tops of annual shoots. For a second harvest. on the raspberries of these varieties, it is necessary to form a horizontal trellis, that is, in autumn, bend the shoots that have grown during the season perpendicular to the axis of the row at a height of 30-40 cm from the soil surface. next spring replacement shoots and offspring in a row are left to grow vertically. In this case, the first harvest from two-year-old shoots on a horizontal trellis can be harvested in July, the second - in September from the tops of one-year shoots.

How to get a triple crop of raspberries

If there is no harvest, you wave your hand with annoyance and cut out the unfortunate bushes (in autumn). But next year, the surviving shoots will give a super-harvest of berries!

In the raspberry bush there are shoots of only two ages: divide the current year and last year's Raspberries into two equal parts, spaced at least 2 meters apart from one another. On one part of the plantation you will grow only fruit-bearing shoots, and transplant offspring (replacement shoots) to another area.

Planting raspberries can be nested or ordinary. The latter method is preferred, as plants acquire Better conditions power and lighting. But in both cases, the number of plants per linear meter should not exceed a dozen. The garter of fruit-bearing plants is of exceptional importance! In addition to the double-sided garter, you can strengthen the shoots to the third wire, stretched higher, directly between the stakes. This is done if not 10, but 12-13 shoots are left in a row per meter. Buds in excess, on each meter of two or three shoots tied to the middle wire, we sniff out (delete) from below.

With this technique, we will prevent the thickening of the lower part of the row and increase the branching of the upper part of the shoots, where there are better conditions for development. Do not be embarrassed that the tops of the shoots hang behind the wire by 30-40 cm. This is how it should be: the sun's rays should not penetrate into the soil of the fruit row. Shade is also important as a means of suppressing weeds. But in order to prevent the growth of weeds at all, it is necessary 2-3 times a season between shoots to wrap the soil in such a layer (no more than 3 cm). From this, the soil will always be loose, moderately moist and saturated with valuable carbon dioxide for plants. Only on loose soil do all the so-called "reserve buds" of plants awaken. The fight against pests and diseases is carried out at the usual time and with accepted chemicals. Feed raspberries with slurry or organic-mineral solution. After the berries ripen, the fruiting shoots complete their life cycle and dry out. Cut them out. In a plant-free, well-lit plantation, all the nutrients in the soil will go to replacement shoots. And the replacement shoots-offspring, grown on another part of the raspberry, are already full of vitality, ready to give a harvest next year.

ADVANTAGES OF THE NEWLY CREATED METHOD

1. Known way has the disadvantage that replacement shoots, oppressed by fruit-bearing shoots, do not reach the proper capacity and are not able to produce many berries next year. And fruit-bearing shoots are extremely constrained by root offspring - the latter take away a significant part of their nutrients and overshadow them too much - they are not able to give high yield good quality.

2. Released from active young competitors, fruiting shoots turn into long branches with large berries. Moreover, the lower buds, usually shaded and unproductive, here form fruit branches of a meter length with large quantity berries. In the middle and upper parts of the shoot from the buds, not one, as usual, but several fruit-bearing branches appear, that is, all “sleeping” branches awaken in the usual situation.

3. New way cultivation of raspberries gives a high yield, almost three times, regardless of the raspberry variety. The productivity of picking labor increases sharply: the berry is large-fruited and there are no replacement shoots getting underfoot. Enlightened and well-ventilated raspberries become resistant to diseases and pests, they are easy to care for, they have a beautiful appearance.

Drive stakes 130-140 cm high along the edges of the raspberries. Attach a crossbar 120-150 cm long to them at a level of 90 cm from the ground. The wire stretched between the crossbars will serve as a support for unstable plant stems. Tie them with wire, but not more than 20 cm apart and with a Christmas tree: one shoot to the left, the other to the right wire. To prevent the wire from sagging, support it with 1-2 slingshots.

udachnyesovety.ru

How to graft currants on golden currants

A bush on a leg. Standard forms of plants

There are two ways to get a plant formed on a stem, the first is that the plant, whether it be currant, gooseberry, chokeberry or irga, removes all side shoots, leaving only a shoot that is designed to remove the stem from it when it reaches desired height. Pinch off the top and form a bush. The bush is formed due to the fact that side shoots appear from the axils of the leaves, the tops of which are also pinched, this procedure is carried out 2-3 times until the crown branches well enough.

The second way to obtain standard plants is grafting onto a stamb-forming plant, which is golden currant (when grafting currants and gooseberries) and common mountain ash (when grafting chokeberry and shadberry). This method is more interesting because it is less time consuming and the result is original trees. Such trees-bushes on legs have their advantages. Firstly, they are beautiful - such a tree can become the center of absolutely any composition in the garden. Secondly, the crown of such a plant is much better illuminated, which avoids many diseases.

Currant golden almost does not require care, easily breeds. It's very unpretentious frost-resistant berry plant, which tolerates drought well and produces a stable crop every year. It is a shrub that bears fruit on shoots. different ages and giving each year an increase in root shoots. Sometimes it is also called a currant tree. Blossoms in April - May, fructifies stretched from late June to August. Productivity 5 - 10 kg per bush. The berries are black, yellow or red, collected in small brushes of 4 - 8 pieces.

Where does such a name come from?

And everything is simple, in spring the bush is completely covered with tassels of bright lemon-yellow, golden flowers with a pleasant aroma. In autumn, its carved leaves turn crimson. So the golden currant can also be a decoration of the garden, summer cottage. If you decide to plant on the border of the site, then do not forget that without supervision, the bush actively captures the area around and in a few years, with good humidity, it can stretch up to two and a half meters in diameter. But the fight against this is simple, remove the annual growth that makes its way to the sides, or put a thick layer of mulch or black film around. Since it can grow without care, it was therefore actively used when planting forest plantations (in the USSR), when strengthening soils on slopes. Sometimes planted as an alley plant.

Propagate golden currant can be green and lignified cuttings, seeds during breeding work. Gives a lot of root growth, which is planted from mother plant. It is also possible to reproduce by dividing the bush.

Planted golden currant at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other or 1 meter by 2 meters. If used as a fence, then plant thicker. As with blackcurrant, the bush is most often formed from 15 branches - 3 of each age, formed for 5 years, cutting out all that is superfluous annually. First of all, remove thickening, broken, crossing shoots. And of course, from the fifth year, cut out the old ones. That is, after fruiting, cut out the 3 oldest ones, and leave the 3 strongest and occupying the best position from one-year-olds.

If it is possible to plant several varieties, then this will only improve pollination, because this plant is cross-pollinated.

About watering. More than 10 years ago, there were water shortages all summer long. It turned out that there was no rain, and the water supply did not function. So imported water was only enough for everyday life, and there was no irrigation. Period from May 5th to September 15th. Currant survived this waterless summer. Of course, the heat was terrible and the fruits almost all crumbled, but the bushes survived. But the black and red currants disappeared, they could not stand the heat of the steppe and drought. Therefore, now only golden currant grows on our site, successfully propagated from those surviving bushes. Irrigation is now normal, and therefore the bushes are abundantly covered with berries up to 1.5 cm in diameter. Watering can be done both by sprinkling and along the furrows. I put the sprayer in the center of the bush. I water every 15-20 days. There is a bush that grew from a seed. The berries are slightly different. Although a change in the shape and taste of berries is observed with vegetative reproduction. The length of individual shoots is up to 2 - 2.5 meters. With a large number of berries, they are bent top to the ground. Therefore, it is possible to include in the care tying to a trellis, a support stand. But so far it has not been observed that the shoots break under the weight of the berries. But I just sometimes pinch the growing shoots on the golden currant so that they do not grow very long. We use them for brewing tea, you can also for reproduction. Such a stable plant will be just a godsend for summer residents, gardeners - gardeners.

From golden currants, you can cook the same preparations for the winter as from other types - jam, compotes, jellies, liqueurs and everything else. It contains pectin substances, organic acids, sugars up to 17%, ascorbic acid, carotene and other substances. Removes radionuclides from the body.

Also use golden currant for vaccinations. They plant yoshtu, gooseberries, and other types of currants on it. In this way, you can get standard crops, or you can graft several varieties of other types of currants onto one plant to get very decorative trees. Imagine - black, yellow, red currants on one stem - isn't it beauty?

Of course, a hardy golden currant plant is unpretentious in care, but if it is possible to prepare a planting site, then you will get the maximum yield. It is better to prepare planting pits in spring for autumn planting and autumn for spring. Fill them with fertilizers, and after planting the plants, water them abundantly.

Mulch is used and not only on young plantings. After all, such a layer of straw, sawdust, shavings not only retains moisture, but also protects against overheating, serves as fertilizer when rotting, protects against winter freezing, and dampens the growth of weeds. The soil under the bushes is not compacted and the number of weeding and loosening is reduced. So the care of the golden currant will be minimal, the stability of the plant is guaranteed. And it can reproduce itself, giving a mass of root shoots.

How to grow standard currant

Disadvantages of standard cultivation

Naturally, each method of growing berry bushes has its drawbacks:

since the plants will be adults, in winter the snow will not completely cover them, which is very dangerous for certain regions,

Grow standard way it is possible as red currant, and white, and black.

By the way, the same can be said about gooseberries, and many use this method even in relation to roses.

Currant tree instead of a bush

All shoots and foliage that will be located below the length that you set, remove.

3. In the third year, you will notice a fairly dense crown. At this time, you will need to pinch the top of each branch, and also, like last year, destroy the entire basal shoots and shoots located below the established length. By the way, this summer your tree will delight you with its first insignificant harvest.

For currants or gooseberries to grow in a standard form, as small tree, a simple method was invented. When planting a plant, one of the strongest vertically growing shoots is selected from a seedling, the rest are all cut directly from the ground. At the abandoned shoot, all branches are removed to the intended height of the stem, put on it a tube made of polyethylene or other material that does not transmit light. The lower end of the tube is buried 10 cm into the soil, and the upper end rises above the soil to the desired stem height. Such plants can be planted much closer together than ordinary bushes.

Trees must be tied to a support (pegs or trellis), this is necessary so that they do not break with strong growth or under the influence of wind and fruit loads. If you are not using an opaque tube, then remove all lateral branches to the intended trunk height, which is usually 60-100 cm. In subsequent years, 4-5 branches are left and form the entire crown. Remove thickening shoots, as well as branches growing down, damaged and older than 7-8 years. Every year, shoots appear at the base of the bush, which must be removed immediately, preventing them from growing.

For better decorative effect, it is desirable to form both standard currant and standard gooseberry with a spherical or spherical crown.

Advantages of the standard form of currants and gooseberries:

Photo from prodejstromku.cz

Currant and gooseberry

There are two main ways to grow a standard gooseberry: by forming a stem from a gooseberry plant, or by grafting a gooseberry onto a stem (stem) of golden currant with the further formation of a tree - a standard gooseberry.

To form a gooseberry trunk on golden currant, it is necessary to graft gooseberries on 1-2-year-old shoots of golden currant. This can be done by copulation or saddle at the end of summer, when gooseberries are grafted on a young shoot of golden currant, tied to a support (stake) to give straight vertical growth. Gooseberries are grafted at a height of 40 to 100 or more cm, depending on the power of the rootstock (currant). Mature annual shoots are used as rootstock cuttings, from which the leaves are almost completely removed: only part of the leaf plate is left on each cutting. The strapping from the grafted stock is removed only in the fall.

Berry bushes on trunk

This method of growing berries has long been widely used in Western Europe, and in recent decades only individual amateur gardeners have begun to use it in our country, although in pre-revolutionary times it was well known in Russia.

With the growth of gooseberry bushes, red and black currants, their branches often lie on the ground, which makes tillage and weed control difficult, the berries become contaminated, ripen later, and harvesting is complicated. To raise the drooping branches, various techniques are used - they set stands under the branches, a stake is driven into the center of the bush, to which they are tied, etc. However, there is another, fundamentally different way in which the branches will not spread along the ground. Its essence is that berry bushes are grown in standard and semi-standard form in the form of a small tree. The height of the stem is 60-110 cm, the height of the semi-stem is 40-60 cm. The stem form is convenient in a small area. A small tree is easier to care for than a bush, and it is easier to feed. The crown is better ventilated and illuminated, it is convenient to trim it regularly. The bush is less damaged fungal diseases, the berries are larger, brighter, tastier, they do not touch the ground and are not polluted. Picking berries from such a tree is a pleasure: no bending or straining. And one more trump card: standard berry plants are very decorative, they will decorate any site and enchant you at first sight.

They are placed singly, but can be in rows along paths or hedges. Research carried out in foreign countries, showed that the cultivation of gooseberries and red currants in the standard form is more economical than in the usual bush form. Additional care costs are paid off by increased yields and high quality. There is information about the successful cultivation of standard gooseberries and currants in the south.

In the middle lane, despite the sufficient winter hardiness of stem plants, it is better to place them in protected areas of the garden. It is not bad to provide for the use of simple shelters for the winter.

It is worth trying and bending such plants to the ground late autumn, as is practiced for standard roses.

LOOKING FORWIN

It is known that in winter period the most low temperatures occur in the snowy layer of air. Therefore, the crown of a tree should be at least 0.5 m from the surface of the snow cover, which usually reaches an average height of 0.5 m in January-February. Gardeners take this circumstance into account when creating for low-winter-resistant varieties fruit crops winter-hardy stem formers. At the same time, a cutting of the desired variety is grafted onto the stem former into a conductor at a height of 1-1.2 m from the ground, which makes it possible to bring the crown of a low-winter-resistant variety into a more favorable microclimate zone. Similar conditions develop in winter and when the crown of standard berries is taken out to a height of 1 m.

However, despite all the arguments in favor of the standard berry tree, verification of the unusual method of formation is necessary, and amateur gardeners, especially among enthusiasts, still have to have their say. At first, to master the novelty, it is enough to practice on 1-2 bushes. In any case, you should always have an insurance fund from ordinary bushes that winter under the snow!

GOSEBERRY ON SHTAMBAH

In standard form, gooseberries are grown by grafting or on their own roots. As a stock, golden currant or gooseberry seedlings are used. Golden currant rootstocks are grown for 1-2 years from rooted cuttings or layering. If currants are propagated by spring sowing of seeds, they are pre-stratified for 2-4 months in the refrigerator.

Grown rootstocks are planted at the end of September - the second decade of October, but this can also be done in the spring. Plants are placed in a row after 1 m, between rows - 1.5-2 m. Plants are planted 5-8 cm deeper than they grew before. After planting, water abundantly, mulch with peat or humus. After planting a seedling of golden currant from 2-3 branches, one is left - the strongest and straightest. The left branch by the fall should slightly exceed the intended height of the trunk. The lateral shoots that appear on it in the summer are pinched, which contributes to the thickening of the stem.

Gooseberries can be grafted in summer, winter or spring. In summer - in the third decade of July or early August by lateral grafting for the bark. In harvested well-ripened shoots, thorns and leaves are removed with secateurs, leaving shortened petioles. A stalk with 3-5 buds with a lower oblique cut 3-4 cm long is inserted into the T-shaped incision of the rootstock bark. For winter grafting, rootstocks are dug up in the fall and stored in the basement in boxes with wet peat, sawdust or sand at a temperature close to 0 ° C. Since autumn, gooseberry cuttings have been harvested and stored under the same conditions. Winter vaccination is carried out in late February - early March indoors, sitting at the table. With the same thickness of the scion and rootstock, they are grafted with improved copulation or with a tongue. The grafted components for fusion are placed in boxes filled with a mixture of sand and peat (1: 1), and kept at a temperature of 18-200 for two weeks. After that, the boxes are again transferred to a cold basement, where they are stored until planting. Since the beginning landing work grafted seedlings are planted in a permanent place with a distance of 1 m between them. A stake is driven into the planting hole, which is used to tie plants. In the spring, vaccination is carried out at the beginning of sap flow (approximately in the first decade of May). Grafting methods are more diverse: improved copulation, split, butt, side cut. You can graft several varieties of gooseberries with different colors to one stock - you get a particularly original and elegant plant.

Get a beautiful spherical crown will help correct pruning. By the end of the first or second year after planting, 4-6 main branches are laid: one is central, the rest are evenly spaced in a circle. The central branch is shortened minimally (by 1/4-1/8 of the annual growth), the rest are shortened somewhat more, trying to give the crown a rounded shape. In subsequent years, 4 lateral branches are left on each branch, which are shortened every year when they reach a length of about 20 cm. Sick, drooping and crossing branches are removed. By 4-5 years, the crown reaches the shape you intended.

The standard gooseberry at the age of 7-8 and even 10 years gives good yields, but as the branches age and freeze, they have to be replaced with younger ones. When pruning, it is necessary to ensure that the crown retains a rounded shape and attractiveness. Many lateral shoots appear on the trunk, which should be systematically removed.

The standard gooseberry must be tied to a stake, which is installed when planting a seedling. The stake is debarked, painted or impregnated, especially in that part of it that is in the ground, to reduce decay. Support will be necessary for the tree throughout its life. The figure-eight garter is made in two places - in the middle of the bole and in the crown.

Sometimes, with a large harvest, the support is strengthened, another 1-2 stakes are placed. If the standard gooseberry is planted in a row, a wire trellis installed along the row is sometimes used as a support. Any variety can be grown in a standard form, but the main condition should be high winter hardiness of branches and flower buds. Large-fruited European varieties with more durable branches and fruit formations look better in this formation (Warsaw, Date, Triumph Bean, Brazilian, English Yellow, Shanon).

IN ITS ROOTS

When growing standard gooseberries without grafting (on their own roots), a first-class seedling planted in a permanent place is left with one, the most powerful, upright annual shoot, the rest are cut out at the soil surface. When landing in the landing pit, a stake is immediately hammered desired height and the shoot left after pruning is tied to it. The next year, all lateral branches are removed on it to a height of 60-110 cm, and 4-6 shoots are left at the very top. In the future, on each left shoot, 4 lateral branches are retained. A rounded crown is formed in the same way as in grafted plants.

CURRANT CHANGES SHAPE

Redcurrant is more often than black currant used to form plants in standard form. This is facilitated by the straight growth and strength of the branches, the durability of the bushes that live and bear fruit for 5-7 years. She can also have standard and semi-standard forms; in the first case, the height of the trunk is 60-110 cm, in the second - 40-60 cm. Such plants are obtained using golden currant grafts, or they form standard forms from ordinary seedlings, as mentioned above, for gooseberry plants. Another interesting way is to put on a “case” on a single-stem seedling before planting, in order not to remove the buds on the stem, - an opaque polyethylene tube about 3 cm in diameter. Its upper end will show the height of the stem of an adult plant. When planting a plant in a permanent place, the tube is buried in the soil by 8-10 cm. Blackcurrant can also be grown in a standard form. Moreover, when planting, annual seedlings grown from single-bud cuttings are more convenient. with further growth, the bush does not form zero shoots. After 5 years, the trunk thickness reaches 4-5 cm, the skeletal branches begin to grow old, and they are gradually cut out, leaving one or two buds, due to which the crown is again updated with branches.

In recent years, trellis shaping has been practiced abroad for blackcurrant. Choose a well-lit area with fertile soil. If there are several trellises, a distance of 1.8-2 m is given between them. To arrange a trellis, poles (reinforced concrete, wooden or strong pipes) are dug in along the future row of plants, 2.2-2.5 m high at a distance of 4-5 m from each other . 2-3 rows of galvanized wire 3-4 mm thick or synthetic twine are pulled between the posts. Saplings of low-growing varieties are planted along a row of trellis after 60 cm, vigorous ones - after 1 m. After planting, the plants are cut short as usual, leaving stumps up to 5 cm with 2-3 well-developed buds. The next year, 3-4 of the strongest shoots are selected from all the shoots, they are shortened, the rest are cut out.

Left shoots are tied to a wire. As the bushes age, 5-year-old branches are cut out, and the same number of zero shoots are left to replace them. The blackcurrant culture on a trellis provides an annual and plentiful harvest of high quality berries. Collecting them is much easier. Red currants and gooseberries are also successfully grown on the trellis.

Candidate of Agricultural Sciences

This method of growing currants has quite significant advantages compared to the traditional cultivation of berry bushes:

The advantages of growing currants on a trunk

If you also want to acquire a similar tree, then it is not so difficult to do this, since you will not have to resort to any vaccinations.

This miracle will give your site an exotic look if you plant it, for example, along the path. Why not a kind of alley?

Believe me, you will not get away from the curious glances of your neighbors.

1. In early August, plant a thick bare summer shoot in a permanent place and pinch its top.

2. Next year, when shoots appear on the top of it, again in August, pinch each of the new branches.

The same applies to the basal processes.

4. The fourth summer will bring with it significant fruiting. The stem will have already taken shape by that time, however, the pinching will need to be done in exactly the same way as last year, and besides, cut out all the black and aged branches. Similar events await you in the coming years.

4. It should be noted that standard currant lives about four years more than the usual currant bush, which means that the tree will delight you with its large fruits for almost two decades.

Advantages of golden currant a great many - heat resistance, withstands drought, winters well, is not affected by diseases and pests, is unpretentious to the ground (it grows even on saline and calcareous soils), the plant is resistant to temperature changes - that's why it does not require care. I have been growing for more than 15 years in one place and have not been damaged by anything yet. Mass was obtained from two bushes planting material. Bushes are now growing in different places- there are both in open places and in partial shade, it grows even near plums and cherries outside the garden on the border of the site. And everywhere it bears fruit every year. They never sprayed anything, and they didn’t make much fertilizer. Sometimes (not every year) we throw a handful of complete mineral fertilizer, and then not under all the bushes, but only those that are close.

When laying a large plantation. Plow the place deep in autumn. Incorporate organic and mineral fertilizers. In the spring, dig or make landing holes with a drill. Place seedlings in them.

Pruning of planted golden currants is done in the same way as black currants - leaving 2-3 developed buds on each shoot.

Of course, in the first year after planting, the young plant needs watering every week to strengthen the root system, was good survival. To preserve moisture, mulch the soil around the golden currant. Then the water consumption will be reduced.

How to make trees from currants and gooseberries? Pros and cons of the standard form

A standard gooseberry can be obtained not only by growing it from its own root seedling, but also by grafting onto golden currants. If the gardener knows the methods of grafting berries, a good result can be achieved by lateral grafting under the bark, which can be carried out with a cutting with an oblique cut, a rootstock with a T-shaped cut of the bark and combining the rootstock and scion with a grafting film. When it is possible to graft several varieties of gooseberries with different colors of berries onto a stock at once, the tree becomes especially beautiful.

Currants and gooseberries in standard form are suitable for small gardens, as the plant occupies less space. Easier care and harvest. Due to better illumination, the quality and size of the berries improves. In the same area, you can grow more plants and get more yield. The method is often used for decorative purposes.

There are restrictions this method by climate. Studies of the Research Institute of Horticulture in Siberia have shown that squat, well-covered with snow bushes, and not tall bushes or trees of these crops, are most reliably preserved from frost and freeze less, which means they bear fruit better. In experiments, the yield of red currants without snow cover decreased by 40-50%, black - by 40-80%, gooseberries - even more. These figures are given as an average of observations over 20 years. In cold climates, currant and gooseberry trees need to be covered or bent down for winter to cover with snow, choose frost-resistant varieties.

The growth of the underground part of currant bushes in good conditions can last up to 30-40 years, gooseberries even longer. At the same time, the maximum age of above-ground shoots is much less: in black currant, skeletal branches can live 6-10 years (with a maximum of fruiting at 4-5 years), in red and white currants - up to 7-12 years (with a maximum of fruiting at 5-7 years). year), in golden currant - up to 12-18 years (with a maximum fruiting for 6-8 years). In the natural bush form of growth, the dying skeletal branches are constantly renewed by new shoots growing annually from the base of the bush, and thus the plant greatly prolongs its life span. When grown in standard form as a tree, due to the constant removal of new basal shoots, the life of the tree will be limited to the above terms. The standard form of gooseberries with grafting on golden currants is expedient. Gooseberry culture in this form is very convenient for picking berries. In addition, due to the relative durability of the golden currant bole and grafted gooseberry skeletal branches, such gooseberry trees also turn out to be relatively more durable.

So think for yourself, decide for yourself whether to have or not to have. gooseberries and currants on your plot??

The fashion for standard forms of currants and gooseberries, and after it the majority of other horticultural crops, came to us from Europe, where gardeners tired of the monotony, and simply the owners of their plots, are trying to somehow surprise their neighbors and guests.

The use of standard forms of fruit shrubs in our summer cottages is not only possible, it is simply necessary: these plants are a decoration of the garden, facilitate the collection of fruits, give aesthetic pleasure when contemplating them, allow you to transform a dull area into some special and very interesting world in which familiar plants appear in a new form for us.

A stem is a part of a tree trunk from the root collar to the first skeletal branch located in the lower tier of the crown. By height and purpose, all stems are divided into high-stem, semi-stem, low-stem, bushy and creeping.

The transformation of an ordinary currant and gooseberry plant into a standard plant can be easily accomplished by grafting. It is carried out in early spring during the period of active sap flow on the scion and rootstock, it is easy to check for the presence of which, just make an oblique cut and run a dry finger over it, if you feel moisture on the skin, this is a signal - it's time to graft. Don't be in too much of a hurry to get vaccinated. Excessive moisture, recurrent cold, insufficient plant activity - all this can lead to the fact that both plants (both scion and rootstock) will die. As a rootstock (the plant on which they will be grafted) for both gooseberries and currants, golden currant is ideal. Grafting on it is carried out with a cutting by the method of improved copulation (with a tongue), wrapping the places of cuts with plastic wrap. Further care for "postoperative" plants consists in watering, fertilizing with complex fertilizers and removing wild shoots on the trunk. In the autumn, when it is clear that the vaccination has been successful, the scion will have new shoots, the film is carefully removed, it is better to do this by cutting off the knot with a sharp budding knife, trying not to damage the shoot. It is imperative to remove the film, because if this is not done, constrictions may form, since the film will prevent the natural thickening of the trunk, and in this place, most likely, there will be a break, which will lead to the death of the scion.

Immediately after the film is removed, it is necessary to protect the new plant from gusts of wind, since, alas, standard forms of currants and gooseberries cannot grow without supports - even an average gust of wind breaks them, so the establishment of supports is a must. Either wooden pegs or metal rods can be used as a support. Both, of course, spoil the picture of natural beauty, but by giving the supports a somewhat sophisticated look - by painting a metal rod, or by cutting some kind of dry shoot out of a wooden peg, you can smooth out the forced intervention in nature.

(red and black) are low shrubs. The average height of these berry bushes is 1-1.2 m, rarely reaches 1.5 m. Therefore, you have to bend low when harvesting from gooseberry and currant bushes.
In addition, the berries on the lower branches are often soiled with dirty splashes that fall on them during heavy rain or watering.
The removal around such low bushes also causes great inconvenience. And in gooseberries, weeding is aggravated by the fact that its branches are prickly.

In recent years, the cultivation of currants and gooseberries in the form of a standard tree has become very popular.

Benefits of golden currant

Gooseberries, red and black currants - crops are too weak to get a fairly tall and beautiful tree from them by forming pruning. Therefore, to create a vigorous and thick bole, a different type of currant is used. This is a golden currant; or, as it is also called, crandal.

The golden currant is a relatively large shrub, reaching a height of 3-4 m. It significantly exceeds the bushes of black and red currants, gooseberries in growth strength.
root system the golden currant is powerful, reaching a depth of 2 meters.

Golden currant has great advantages:
- high drought resistance and heat resistance;
- resistance to almost all, which often affect gooseberries, as well as black and red currants.

Creation of a stem stock from golden currant

To create a currant or gooseberry tree, first of all, it is necessary to grow a powerful rootstock. To this end, rooted cuttings or layering of golden currants are planted in the spring (preferably immediately in a permanent place).

During the summer, growing cuttings of golden currant are intensively cared for, forming plants into one trunk. Top dressing is done regularly and the emerging root shoots are removed, as well as extra shoots in the lower part of the trunk.

As a result caring care by autumn, the height of a young plant usually reaches 1.5 meters. If it is not possible to get such a height, then the golden currant is grown for another year.

Cutting and storage of currant and gooseberry cuttings

Gooseberry, black and red currant cuttings for grafting onto a golden currant stem are prepared at the beginning of winter.

For cutting high-quality cuttings, well-developed annual shoots of currants and gooseberries are taken. It is desirable that the loose core takes up as little space as possible in them.

Harvested cuttings of currants and gooseberries are stored buried in the snow until spring. And with the onset of warm days, the cuttings are taken out of the melting snow, wrapped in plastic wrap and placed for further storage in a home refrigerator (preferably under a freezer).
Important: until the moment of vaccination, the cuttings of the kidneys must be in a dormant state.

Spring grafting of currant and gooseberry cuttings on a crandal trunk

The spring grafting of successfully preserved cuttings of gooseberries, black and red currants is started when buds begin to bloom on the prepared trunk of golden currants.

Grafting of overwintered currant and gooseberry cuttings on a golden currant stem is usually carried out at a height of 1.0-1.2 m.
If desired, if a taller and thicker golden currant stem is available, the grafting height can be increased to 2 meters.

By the method of improved copulation (or behind the bark), a gooseberry or black / red currant stalk with 2-3 buds is grafted to the stem of golden currant.
The grafting site is tightly wrapped with plastic tape.

To protect the cutting from drying out, it is advisable to put on top of a combined cap, consisting of two equal squares of paper and plastic film rolled into a tube superimposed on each other (the size of a handkerchief; upper layer- from paper, the bottom - from the film). The lower part of the tube is tied to the rootstock below the grafting site, and the upper part is clamped with twine. Periodically, the twine in the upper part is untied and they look inside the tube: has the stalk started to grow?
As soon as the buds on the handle bloom, the cap is removed.

It can also be grafted with a sprouting eye (preferably in the butt). In this case, protective caps are not needed.

Winter grafting of currant and gooseberry cuttings on a crandal stem

Good results are obtained by winter grafting currant and gooseberry cuttings on a golden currant stem.
To do this, in the fall, powerful bushes of golden currant, formed into one trunk, are planted in large pots or buckets and put in the basement for the winter.

At the end of February, pots with overwintered golden currant boles are brought into a greenhouse or a warm veranda. After a few days, you can graft the saved cuttings of gooseberries and currants on them.

Grafted plants are well looked after, periodically sprayed with water from a spray bottle.
As a rule, indoors, in the absence of drying winds, the survival rate of grafts is much better than in the garden.

Pots with grafted golden currants are added dropwise in the garden for the summer. Water and feed growing plants regularly.
In autumn, together with a clod of earth, grafted seedlings are planted in a permanent place.

Caring for grafted standard plants consists in regularly removing the golden currant shoots that appear from the root and along the trunk.
To prevent growth from forming on the stem of golden currant, you can put on a narrow cover made of special film(black with white underside).

In the photo: standard currant and gooseberry

Standard currants and gooseberries in garden design

Standard currants and gooseberries look very impressive in the garden, especially against the backdrop of a lawn or house wall.

These curly trees look incomparable at the time of abundant flowering.
They are no less beautiful during fruiting, when their crown is strewn with tassels of black or bright berries.

It is very convenient to pick berries from such miniature trees, since you no longer need to bend low.

You can form a whole alley of such amazing berry trees. For example, place such an alley along garden path leading from the entrance gate to the house. Create such original standard berry plants that can not only give a lot of joy throughout the garden season, but also give generous harvests - to the surprise of friends and neighbors!

Alexander Sychev, candidate of agricultural sciences
http://sadincenter.ru

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Increasingly, currants and gooseberries are now grown not in bushes, but in standard form. And this, judging by the responses and some personal experience, gives significant advantages over traditional cultivation. They consist in facilitating the care of plants and harvesting from them, in the enlargement and improvement of the quality of berries due to better illumination; in addition, the berries acquire a kind of decorative effect.
To achieve such a reconstruction of the berry garden is quite simple, and you can not even resort to time-consuming vaccinations.
In order for currants or gooseberries to grow in a standard form, like a small tree, a simple method was invented. When planting a plant, one of the strongest vertically growing shoots is selected from a seedling, the rest are all cut directly from the ground.

At the abandoned shoot, all branches are removed to the intended height of the stem, put on it a tube made of polyethylene or other material that does not transmit light. The lower end of the tube is buried 10 cm into the soil, and the upper end rises above the soil to the desired stem height. Such plants can be planted much closer together than ordinary bushes.
Trees must be tied to a support (pegs or trellis), this is necessary so that they do not break with strong growth or under the influence of wind and fruit loads. If you are not using an opaque tube, then remove all lateral branches to the intended trunk height, which is usually 60-100 cm. In subsequent years, 4-5 branches are left and form the entire crown. Remove thickening shoots, as well as branches growing down, damaged and older than 7-8 years. Every year, shoots appear at the base of the bush, which must be removed immediately, preventing them from growing.

Advantages of the standard form of currants and gooseberries:

Currants and gooseberries in standard form are suitable for small gardens, as the plant takes up less space. Easier care and harvest. Due to better illumination, the quality and size of the berries improves. In the same area, you can grow more plants and get more yield. The method is often used for decorative purposes.

There are limitations to this method in terms of climate.
Studies of the Research Institute of Horticulture in Siberia have shown that squat, well-covered with snow bushes, and not tall bushes or trees of these crops, are most reliably preserved from frost and freeze less, which means they bear fruit better.
In experiments, the yield of red currant without snow cover decreased by 40-50%, black - by 40-80%, gooseberries - even more. These figures are given as an average of observations over 20 years. In cold climates, currant and gooseberry trees need to be covered or bent down for winter to cover with snow, choose frost-resistant varieties.

So think for yourself, decide for yourself whether to have or not to have ... standard gooseberries and currants on your site 🙂 Good luck!