Soil for rooting grape cuttings. Methods of rooting at home

Cuttings - the most popular and affordable method of propagation of grapes (germinate).On the one hand, it requires a lot of time and some effort, but on the other hand it has a number of advantages. The cuttings are guaranteed to be cut from the best, most powerful bushes; when rooting, the soil of the infield is used, which allows you to quickly adapt the plant. In addition, this is how planting material is obtained exactly by the time of planting.

There are several different ways to sprout Chubuk. So, rooting in water provides visibility. And this helps to prevent the emergence of shoots before the roots appear. Growing in the substrate, in turn, allows you to do without an intermediate transplant, which is traumatic for young grapes.

Why germinate

Grapes propagated in several ways: by germinating seeds, rooting cuttings, layering and planting seedlings. The first method is used extremely rarely because it requires a lot of time, but does not guarantee a result. The latter ensures the absence of diseases, because in nurseries seedlings are treated accordingly, but economically not too profitable.

The most popular methods of propagation of grapes - using cuttings and layering. The preference of a particular method is determined by the weather conditions of the region. Reproduction by layering involves digging a long young shoot and rooting it in the ground. At the same time, the new bush adapts to the existing soil. However, this option is only feasible if the earth warms up quickly enough in the spring, and warm weather is not limited to July.

How to harvest and store grape cuttings in the fall, read on.

Cuttings are much more reliable to propagate grapes in the northern and middle latitudes, where there is a high risk of late frosts, few sunny days and summers are too short.

Cuttings are cut from young fruitful vines and the owner himself determines which shoots are most suitable.
Thus, any variety of grapes can be propagated. - from the most common to the rarest.
Cuttings in a special way prepare and root in order to obtain first-class planting material exactly to the date of planting.
Chubuki adapted to the conditions of the infield and take root even better than seedlings.

Rooting grape seedlings

Features of winter germination (number, what time, period)

In a well-wintered chubuk, moisture appears on the cut. In addition, the slice itself has a deep green color.

The lower sections on the cuttings are smoothed with a sharp knife.
The capacity of the required volume is filled with lukewarm water - best of all, melt water, and a chubuk is placed in it for 2 days.
After soaking, it is treated with a solution to stimulate root growth. To do this, heteroauxin, rootin, sodium humate or even ordinary honey is added to water.

Germination (plant cuttings)

There are quite a few different methods to root grape cuttings. Most of them are very simple to execute. However, when rooting, one peculiarity of this method of reproduction must be taken into account. The cutlery needs to be rooted, while the awakening of the upper buds, from which the leaves will develop, is best avoided. To do this, you must fulfill several conditions:

after soaking, the upper cut of the forelock is again covered with a layer of liquid paraffin. Thus, moisture will not fall so quickly into the upper part of the plant;
it is necessary to observe a certain temperature regime during germination. The optimal conditions for rooting is the temperature of the water or substrate near future roots at +24 and +20 C, respectively. The air near the upper part of the plant should be cool - + 8– + 13 C;
light is not a condition for germination. When rooting by the Puzenko method, chubuki are stored in a cool dark place, which does not interfere with germination.

Provide warm conditions for growing grape cuttings by placing them near the battery.

Sprouting in water in a jar

This method is the simplest and most intuitive.

Warm filtered water is poured into a glass liter jar with a layer of 3 cm.
Put a bunch of cuttings in the jar. In this case, a jelly-like substance should be released from the lower sections. While the juice is secreted, the cuttings should be periodically pulled out and washed. When the slice swells, the juice will cease to stand out.
Banks are placed on the windowsill and often ventilate the room. In such a simple way, they achieve that the liquid in the bank remains warm, and the upper part of the plant is in the cold.
Water is poured so that 3 cm layers are maintained throughout the rooting process. You can cover the vessel with a film to reduce evaporation.
After 3-4 weeks, roots appear. Once they reach a length of 2-3 mm, cuttings can be planted in the ground.

Temperature for rooting grape cuttings in water.

The eyes should not be in the water at all. It is known that roots are most likely to form at the water / air interface. A thin layer of water provides aeration, and a small distance from the cut to the kidney - 1.5–2 cm, ensures the border passes through the node of the vine.

It also happens that the buds open before the roots appear, despite all efforts. If there is only one escape, they leave him. If several shoots grow, then the very first and strongest is destroyed - it breaks out. The bush will be able to grow from any shoot, but a sprout that has appeared prematurely will suck all the nutrients out of the cuttings and the plant will not be able to take root.

In the substrate

After the appearance of the roots, the Chubuki are planted in the ground, or, more precisely, in a special soil mixture or substrate. However, grapes can be sprouted immediately in the soil mixture. This method is more convenient, since it does not require additional transplantation: containers with grape bushes can simply be planted on the site as soon as the warm weather is established.

Coconut substrate consists of chopped walnut shells of varying degrees, usually compressed into briquettes, mats, tablets and other forms.

The most popular substrate is coniferous sawdust. 4–5 cm thick layers of sawdust are poured into the container, moistened with water, a stalk is placed, and then another 3-4 cm of sawdust are sprinkled on top. Periodically, you need to check the condition of the substrate - it should be slightly moist, but not dry and not wet.

When using this method, chubuki are pre-soaked in a strong solution of potassium permanganate for 8 hours. Then leave the cuttings in warm water for 2 days.

Soil substrate - for its preparation, river sand, humus, sawdust and soil from the site are mixed in equal proportions. The substrate is distributed in suitable containers, moistened - it should be slightly moist, a drainage is expanded on the bottom of the vessels - expanded clay, for example. Then the cuttings are installed in a container, and sprinkled with a substrate so that the eye is below ground level.

The scheme of planting and rooting of the cuttings using a substrate

When rooting in water, the stem is considered ready for transplantation into the soil with a root length of several millimeters. However, in this case, soil is understood as containers with prepared soil. When germinating in a substrate, chubuki plant directly on the site. The length of the roots should reach 2–4 cm.

Capacities

Any suitable containers are used for germination in the substrates. For amateur winegrowers, these are cheap plastic bottles and glasses.

Plant grape cuttings in bottles at home

A cropped plastic bottle is the most suitable container for rooting:

the material is light, durable and not afraid of moisture;
cost is more than affordable;
the bottom of the bottle is embossed, which eliminates the need for additional drainage;
cutting plastic is very easy when making ventilation holes.

Bottles are used for sprouting Chubuk in substrates and soil mixtures. Expanded clay is put at the bottom - if necessary, a stalk is installed, it is covered with soil mixture. In order not to lose moisture, the bottle along with the seedling is covered on top with a plastic glass. When shoots appear, the glass is removed.

When transplanting, the seedling from the bottle must be removed. Plastic does not belong to biodegradable materials, therefore it is impossible to plant a sprout with container.

In cups (sprout at home)

For rooting, both plastic cups and containers made of thick cardboard are used. The latter are more convenient in that they do not need to be removed when landing on the site - the cardboard decomposes.

Gardeners use 2 methods. The first is no different from growing in bottles: a glass is filled with soil mixture, a stalk is placed in it and they wait until the roots appear. The second method is more complicated, but it allows you to keep the upper kidneys sleeping for as long as possible.
In the second case, 3 holes are made in the bottom of the glass with an awl - for ventilation and a layer of soil mixed with humus is laid. Then a smaller glass is inserted into the container and filled with sand. The cutlery is placed in sand and watered.

The humus layer not only serves as fertilizer, but also maintains temperature by decomposing organic components. To maintain soil temperature, it is recommended to wrap the glasses with polyethylene.

How to understand that seedlings are ready for planting in the soil (well and correctly sprouted cuttings are a condition that you can start / start planting grapes in spring)

Good rooting is a sign that cuttings can be planted on a personal plot. Make it easy.

The fact that the Chubuki began, you can find out immediately if they germinated in water or a damp rag: roots 2-3 mm long are already a sign that the seedling will be taken. However, such roots are still very tender, so you should not rush to land directly on the site. The seedlings that have taken root are transplanted in containers with soil mixture.
If the stalk is rooted in a substrate or soil, you cannot see the roots. In this case, 3-4 weeks after disembarkation, the forelock is slightly supported. If resistance is felt, then the roots have appeared. After that, it is recommended to reduce watering.

As a rule, after rooting, very abundantly green leaves appear.

In a substrate and soil mixture with a sufficient volume of capacity, grapes can develop until the beginning of June. To plant it, however, it is better earlier - in the beginning or middle of May, as soon as the temperature stops falling below +19 C.

Learn about planting and caring for grapes in open ground in this.

Video

This video will tell you when to put grape cuttings for germination.

findings

Rooting of a large number of cuttings before planting in open ground is an obligatory element for northern and middle latitudes / bands (Siberia, the distant Urals). Too short summer limits the growth and development of the plant.
To prepare for, cuttings are cut from annual fruiting vines only after the dormant phase begins.
Cuttings are stored all winter (in winter): at home in the refrigerator, in the cellar, in a special storage.
In late February and mid-March, when the growth phase begins, the Chubuki sprout. Any suitable methods are used for this.
Cuttings can be rooted (planted) in jars and pots, in a substrate, in a damp cloth. Each way to sprout seedlings has its advantages and disadvantages.

How to do spring grafting can be found.

Thanks to the painstaking work of specialists, today it is possible to grow grapes in any climatic conditions. The main thing is to choose the right variety. There are vineyards that withstand frosts down to -30 ° C.

But buying a bush is fraught with a number of nuances. It’s not always possible to find a vineyard of the required variety. In addition, there is always a chance that under the guise of one variety they will sell a seedling of a completely different one, and their cost today is far from budgetary. Getting the stalk is much easier. Consider how to root grape cuttings yourself.

Harvested cuttings after the harvest was harvested and the leaves began to fly around. The timing of the harvesting of planting material is determined by the timing of the onset of the first frost on the ground. This is due to the fact that harvested cuttings should have live and healthy kidneys. At the first frost, the buds on the grape shoots die. Accordingly, such blanks can not be used for growing a vineyard. It is advisable to start harvesting cuttings in the second half of September, if it is an early grape variety, and early October, if it is a late one.

It is not worth harvesting cuttings from the first bush that has come across. It is necessary to determine the variety that gave the highest yield in the season and is not susceptible to any diseases.

As a handle, you can not use part of the unripened shoot. We need a vine that is not green, but brown. The most suitable material for harvesting the cuttings is a shoot whose diameter varies from 8 to 10 mm and a length of 1 from 20 to 40 cm, while the number of internodes should not exceed 8 or be less than 4. No damage to the bark should be observed along the entire length of the cuttings including mechanical. It is desirable that the selected part of the shoot be straight.

You should not choose varieties based on their characteristics. First of all, it is worth paying attention to which varieties of vineyards give a good result in a particular region of the country and at the same time, are not particularly demanding in care.

Preparing cuttings for the winter

It is not possible to root grape cuttings in winter due to too low a temperature, therefore, during the winter period, planting material must be maintained so that it remains alive. It will not be difficult to do this if you follow 5 simple rules after trimming.

Immediately after trimming, it is important to place the cuttings in a container of water and leave for 24 hours.
After a day, place the planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. This treatment is needed for disinfection. An alternative to a solution of potassium permanganate may be a solution of vitriol.
After time, get the cuttings and put on a dry towel or paper towel. Carefully remove excess moisture with paper towels and leave the cuttings to dry completely.
Wrap dry cuttings in a pre-prepared film and gently bandage with a soft piece of cloth. If this is done too tightly, it is possible to damage the bark of seedlings at the dressing site.
In order not to mix up vineyard varieties in spring, hang a tag on all packaged cuttings. In addition to the name of the variety, the date of packaging should be indicated on the tag.

All these procedures are easy to perform at home. The preparation of grape cuttings for rooting is over. It remains to wait for spring and begin to plant them.

So that planting material does not die during winter storage, you need to provide it with a certain temperature regime. For grape cuttings, the most comfortable temperature is 3 ° C. Deviations of 1-2 ° C are allowed. Accordingly, the most suitable place for storing cuttings is a refrigerator in which you can set the temperature to a certain point. Also suitable for storing planting material loggia or cellar.

Features of storage of cuttings in winter

Be sure to check the condition of the cuttings at least 1 time in 30 days. If they dry out, they must be unpacked, all the steps that were done before packaging, and repacked. If mold appears on the bark of the blanks, then the affected areas must be treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Alternatively, you can store cuttings in the winter in the ground. They are buried at a height not exceeding 0.4 m. But in regions with severe winters, this method is not applicable. Most planting material usually dies.

Rooting preparation

Before rooting grape cuttings, they need to be sanitized and prepared in a certain way. A solution of potassium permanganate is used for disinfection, after which the planting material is washed. Perform these steps in a warm room.

After disinfection, cut the cuttings from the bottom. The straight cut line should be at least 5 mm below the extreme point and not more than 20 mm below it. You also need to cut the handle over the upper kidney, but in this case, make an oblique cut. A stalk prepared in this way is placed in a stimulant, which can be purchased at a specialized store for 48 hours. An alternative to the stimulants offered in stores may be a solution of natural honey or aloe juice. To prepare the solution, you need 1 tbsp. l honey or aloe juice and 10 liters of water. The upper cut is treated with garden var.

Before rooting grape cuttings in the soil, you need to take care of the formation of the root system. In its absence, the leaves will not have enough substances for normal functioning, which will lead to their death, therefore, after disinfection and pruning of planting material, the bark along the handle is slightly incised below the last internode. You need to do this with a clean knife, so as not to infect. After making the incisions, they are sprinkled with heterouaxin.

If we are talking about varieties whose rooting is poor, it is advisable to rub heteroaxin into the incisions made with a knife.

Kilchevany

To speed up the formation of the root system, you can conduct a process called kilchevka. It is easy to perform at home. We will need a couple of plastic bottles, a clean rag, a diaper, a container (preferably a box or box) and sawdust.

Take a pre-prepared stalk and wrap its lower part in a rag, which is pre-moistened with warm water. Wrap the top of the handle with a diaper.
We fill one bottle with water, the temperature of which is 28-30 ° C, and in the other we collect water and place it in the freezer until it freezes completely.
We put a bottle of warm water on one side, and ice on the other. We place cuttings on top of the bottles so that their lower part is located on the bottle with warm water. The top, respectively, should be located on an ice bottle.
We fall asleep cuttings. Cover the box.

Stitching is performed for 3 days. Accordingly, during all this time, it will be necessary to change the bottles with ice and warm water several times in order to maintain the desired temperature. After this period, root tubercles and an annular influx of white should form on the cuttings. This planting material is ready for further rooting.

The final stage of rooting

To date, there are many options to root grape cuttings at home. We will consider three methods that are especially popular:

in containers with water;
"on the wardrobe";
in the filler.

This is not to say that one of the methods is better, and some is worse, so we will consider each of them separately.

Rooting in water tanks

This method is called P.P. Radchevsky in honor of the professor who invented it. To root the cuttings by this method, you will need either water obtained from snow, or collected from rains, or thawed, or boiled. It is not recommended to take running water. In extreme cases - defended. You will also need containers in which you can put the cuttings. Glass jars with a wide neck are best suited.

Pour water into glass containers. It is enough to pour a layer of water, the thickness of which is 3 cm. Then we place the cuttings in a container. Do not put more than 10 pieces in one container. We put containers with cuttings on the windowsill, which is heated by the sun. It is advisable to put the containers on low supports and cover the tops of the cuttings with containers in plastic bags: this will maintain the necessary level of humidity.

After 1.5-2 weeks, the shoots will begin to grow, in parallel, the roots will grow. This method is good in that you can save the shoots on the cuttings, but do not grow more than one: this will take a lot of nutrients from the seedling, and there will be no nutrients left for the development of the root system. Break off the shoot that is stronger.

After the appearance of the roots, we move the stem into the ground. Planting a seedling is carried out extremely carefully. It is very important not to break off the roots.

Rooting “on the cabinet”

This method is easier to implement than the previous one. Consider how to properly root grape cuttings "on the cabinet." It will take cloth, water and film. First of all, we wet the fabric with water, then wrap the lower part of the previously prepared grape cuttings into the fabric. In this case, the upper part of each shank should remain free.

At the next stage, we wrap the lower part of each handle into a film, which should end at the same level with the fabric. The tops are still free. It remains to place the cuttings on the cabinet. However, you can put them on any tall furniture or shelf located close to the ceiling. It is necessary to arrange the cuttings so that light reaches their tops, and the lower part is constantly hidden from light sources.

Ideally, after 2 weeks, the root system should appear on the cuttings. In extreme cases, the roots will appear after 25 days. The last step is planting cuttings.

Rooting in the filler

As filler, sawdust prepared in a certain way is used. In addition to sawdust, we need cool boiling water. Sawdust is placed in the container, pour them with boiling water so that it covers the contents of the container. We leave the sawdust to cool completely, then with our hands or using improvised means we remove excess water.

In a previously prepared container, the height of which should exceed the height of the grape cuttings, put a few centimeters of sawdust, then plant the cuttings in them. They need to be positioned so that the kidneys are pointing up. Gently lay out another layer of sawdust. It remains to close the container and the cuttings with a film.

With this method of rooting, you need to moisten the filler 2-3 times a week. After 14 days, roots should appear on the planting material. When the root system appears, the cuttings are transferred to a container, the filler of which is a mixture of earth, sand and humus. As soon as favorable days arrive, the cuttings are transferred to the open ground. Landing is carried out, as a rule, at the beginning of summer.

These are all possible ways of rooting grape cuttings at home. It is important to strictly comply with all the above recommendations and remember that the rooting of planting material begins with the choice of shoot for receiving the cuttings. It is also worth noting that these methods are suitable for rooting a small number of cuttings. If it comes to industrial scale, then other methods are used.

Rooting single-eyed cuttings and green cuttings

Separately, it is worth mentioning the rooting of one-eyed cuttings. To work with such planting material is much easier due to its small size. Such seedlings are conveniently placed in containers or jars. In addition, if we are talking about purchased material, and 2 or 3 eye seedlings are sold, then cutting them into 2 parts, it turns out to save.

But for planting material to take root well, it should be prepared in a slightly different way than a three-eyed stalk. If in the latter case, when performing the lower cut, we practically do not leave hemp, then when working with one-eyed material, we should leave it quite long. This will greatly increase the chances of success of the event. Further, planting material should be rooted in water. We put the handle in a jar and cover it with a plastic bag.

It is also worth noting that grapes can be propagated with green cuttings. This is done in the summer, cutting green cuttings from the bush in such a way as not to disturb its structure, and placing them in water until the roots appear. In summer, it is advisable to put the cuttings in rain water. This method helps to get a large amount of planting material in one season.

Specific moments

It is possible to engage in the preparation of cuttings both in autumn and spring, but autumn is considered a more suitable time, since moisture has not yet left the shoots. In the spring, the shoots are drier, which negatively affects the rooting process. If, nevertheless, you decide to cook the cuttings in the spring, then after trimming, soak them in water for at least 72 hours. During this time, the structure of the shoot tissue will be restored. Another drawback of spring harvesting of cuttings is the risk of getting planting material with frozen buds.

It also happens that grape cuttings do not take root at all or the process goes very slowly. There may be several reasons for this. First of all, you need to properly store grape cuttings, then their rooting will pass without problems. In addition to the temperature regime, the planting material should be provided with a normal level of humidity. In case of excessive moisture, mold may appear on the cuttings. If the air is too dry, then a lot of moisture will leave the cuttings.

It is also worth making a reservation about the timing of rooting of cuttings. Many, talking about when to properly root the cuttings of vine bushes, consider February. But, choosing a month to start rooting, you need to take into account the climate in a particular region. If the cold lasts until spring, then you should start rooting in March. And gardeners who are going to root the cuttings directly in the ground should start rooting at least in mid-spring. This is due to the fact that the planting of cuttings should be carried out in heated soil.

Conclusion

We examined how to root grape stalks at home. You can do this in 3 ways. And do not forget that rooted grape cuttings require careful care, otherwise all the work done will go down the drain.

It is also worth considering that there are grape varieties that are optimally suitable for propagation by cuttings. This, for example, parthenocissus or, as it is popularly called, girl's grapes. The viorika variety is also suitable for propagating by cuttings.

Each gardener at least once in his life tried to propagate grapes from the cuttings of the house. To germinate grape cuttings at home, you do not need special skills. Everyone can grow their own seedlings.

- From the cuttings you can grow a large number of seedlings;

- You can use, and not throw away the shoots after autumn pruning;

- cuttings can be found at acquaintances, exchange the necessary varieties, easy to send by mail;

- to purchase grape cuttings is much cheaper in comparison with the cost of finished seedlings;

- rooted cuttings at home are already prepared for planting and take root more quickly in a permanent place.

Why do you need to germinate cuttings

From the moment the vine ripens and leaves fall, the grape “falls asleep” - it goes into a state of forced rest, which lasts 2–2.5 months. Next, the grapes prepare for spring awakening.

Cut off cuttings from February are able to take root and grow. There is still snow outside the window, and the roots are already growing in the house and the buds are turning green. This means that sprout vegetation will begin three to four months earlier. By the time of planting in open ground, we get already prepared rooted seedlings.

Having germinated the cuttings in advance, we give them a great start in development. Bushes are formed at an accelerated pace. They are better prepared for the winter and will begin to give crops earlier.

Harvesting cuttings

Cuttings of grapes, or chubuki, are cut from the bushes in the fall before shelter. At this time, the foliage in the vineyard, as a rule, has already spread around. The vine of the grapes has matured and has accumulated nutrients for germination.

We select high-quality cuttings for propagation:

- Chubuki cut from healthy and strong bushes.

- The most suitable vines are fruit vines. Not stepsons and not fattening shoots.

- The best cuttings are obtained from the middle part of the shoot. Cuttings with a heel are also suitable - a segment of a two-year shoot.

- In the upper part of the bush, cuttings received more sun and matured better.

- The diameter of the shoots is not thinner than a pencil, seven to ten millimeters.

- We reject cuttings with blackened bark, spots of rot, cracks, and also flat. Undesired shoots with short internodes.

- Inspect the slices - they must be healthy.

Storage of cuttings

Sliced \u200b\u200bvines are supplied with labels and placed for winter storage. Convenient and reliable labels of foil strips from aluminum cans, with an extruded grade name. Options for storing cuttings:

Preparing cuttings for germination

An important point is the preparation of cuttings for germination.

In early February, we take out planting material from the store and inspect. We discard everything dried up and rotten.
The cuttings are soaked for two days in clean, preferably snowy water, to saturate the tissues with moisture. We change water every day.
To disinfect the cuttings, they are soaked for another day in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).
Now, cuttings for a day put the lower ends in a solution of a stimulant - heteroauxin or epin. Lovers of folk remedies use a solution of honey (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), or diluted in a ratio of 1: 2 aloe juice.
Long vines are cut into segments of 2-3 buds. You can cut 3-5 buds and then plant the seedlings deeper. The upper cut is made even, 1-2 cm above the knot. The lower section is led obliquely under the node, in the direction of the eye.
Another secret to successful germination is the furrowing of cuttings. We scratch the lower ends of our sticks together with the knot from different sides several centimeters in length. In sections, callus will appear over time - a white sugar tissue from which the roots will begin to grow. Such cuttings form more active roots.

How to sprout cuttings at home

Two important conditions awaken the cuttings - heat and moisture. Grapes have one feature: first the buds awaken, shoots begin to grow, and only then do the roots germinate. To eliminate this imbalance, grapes need to create conditions under which the temperature in the root formation zone will be higher than in the apex region.

Gardeners use different methods of home germination of cuttings. The most popular of them are:

- stratification in water;

- wilderness.

We grow cuttings in water

Germination of grape cuttings in water is a very simple and affordable way of stratification. It is ideal for beginner growers.

Prepared cuttings of 10-12 pieces are put in glass jars. You can pull the cling film on the cans, pierce it and insert the chubuki.
If possible, remove the lower kidney. If this is not done, the escape from the lower kidney can overtake the upper shoots in development.
Pour no more than 2-3 centimeters of water to the bottom. Why not more? The roots of grapes are most quickly formed at the border of water and air. These are exactly the places that we scratched in advance.
We put the banks on a warm sunny windowsill. If there is no sun at all, artificial lighting is suitable.
We maintain the water level at a constant level, add as needed.
Water is regularly changed to clean. If bacteria appear in it, the water becomes cloudy. Before the roots appear, the water is changed at least once every 3 days, and if necessary daily.
The most caring gardeners put a layer of cotton wool 2–3 centimeters thick at the bottom, and a gauze or mesh layer on top so that the chubucks do not grow into cotton wool. Vata is poured with water so that it does not cover the entire substrate, but is constantly wet.

With this method of germinating grapes in water, it is important to observe the correct temperature regime. The window is cool, the shoots do not germinate too quickly. If the window sill warms up well from the battery, the future conditions are provided with the necessary conditions. If cold - it makes sense to put a heat insulating material. It is better not to allow overheating of water above 26 ° C - the likelihood of decay is increased.

After about 10-12 days, the buds of the grapes begin to sprout. A week later, the roots seem. If the roots have already grown to 2-3 cm, cuttings can be planted in liter containers with soil and grow on the window as seedlings.

Germination in the substrate

For germination of cuttings in the substrate, a special technique is used - kilchevany. The meaning of wilderness is to increase the temperature in the area of \u200b\u200bcallus growth and sprouting of roots. In this case, the development of the roots is accelerated relative to the shoots and leaves.

Advanced gardeners make sophisticated automatic kilk-electrics. At home, the kilchator can be made from an ordinary plastic bottle.

How to make a kilchevator:

We take a plastic bottle, cut off the neck.
We pierce drainage holes in the bottom, pour drainage.
We fall asleep with a loose moistened substrate - a mixture of soil, sand and weathered sawdust.
We insert a stalk with a slight slope in the substrate so that the eye remaining above the soil level looks up.
Cover the handle with a plastic cup.
Kilchevator set in a warm place. The temperature in the kilschator is 20–25 ° С.
Water carefully, preferably from the pallet.
When the shoot appears, the cup is gradually removed.

In the kilchator, seedlings can grow right up to planting in a permanent place. During this time, the root mass in the bottle is clearly visible through the transparent walls. Our goal has been achieved - we have received a healthy seedling suitable for planting.

Propagation of grapes by cuttings at home is probably the most popular way to propagate grapes. Its popularity is due to apparent simplicity.

In other words, many summer residents use it, following the rule: "I’ll plant, you look, something will turn out." And why not try it if the material for the cuttings is at hand, and even when pruning the grapes, you still need to put it somewhere. But not so simple.

Proper harvesting of cuttings is half, if not more, of success in undertaking.

Conventionally, harvesting cuttings can be divided into 3 important processes:

cutting of cuttings;
storage of planting material;
preparation for rooting.

Cutting cuttings

Cutting of cuttings is best done in the fall, after falling off all leaves from the vine, but before the onset of frost. The optimal dates are the second half of November and the beginning of December - during this period the vine is ready for winter rest, therefore, nutrients in chopped cuttings are better stored, and they tolerate better low temperatures.

It is better to use fruit branches for harvesting Chubuk - in this case, the chances of an final successful result will be much higher. For cuttings, you need to take straight (or at least relatively straight) sections of the vine. The cuttings should be long enough: the recommendations come down to a length of the chubuk of 50-70 cm, but experienced winegrowers recommend cutting the chubuk 120-140 cm long.

It is better to harvest a Chubuk from the middle of a fruiting vine. At least 3-4 live kidneys and 6-8 internodes should remain on each chubuk. Do not bother to harvest too thick or too thick cuttings - both of them are poorly rooted. Chubuki from 0.75 to 1 cm thick are considered optimal.

In addition to the terms of harvesting, the length and thickness of the cuttings, the correct choice of the uterine bush is of great importance. Bushes affected by diseases or pests with a damaged or deformed vine are not suitable for harvesting grape cuttings.

Storage of cuttings

Before laying chopped cuttings for storage, they should be disinfected for half an hour in a 5% solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate. Then the cuttings are tied into small bundles - 8-10 pieces. If the cuttings are cut from different varieties, then the name of the variety is attached to each such bunch. Then each bundle is wrapped with a damp cloth, then with plastic wrap and sent for winter storage.

For a small number of cuttings, a refrigerator (but not a freezer) is the ideal storage location. If you plan to plant a large vineyard, it is better to store harvested cuttings in the cellar by digging them in wet sand, but you need to constantly monitor the humidity of the sand, periodically moistening it. Some gardeners prefer to store cuttings by digging them into the ground for the winter.

When stored in a refrigerator and a cellar, you need to periodically check their condition and, if necessary, adjust the humidity or lower their storage temperature. Otherwise, the buds on the cuttings can dry out or develop well in advance, and in both cases all the efforts to prepare and store the Chubuk will go down the drain.

Spring Rooting

Depending on the weather, at the end of winter or at the beginning of spring, harvested cuttings awaken from hibernation. First, the cuttings taken out are checked "for freshness": a pruner cuts both edges of the stem by 1-3 cm.

If the wood in the place of the fresh cut is light green, and a drop of water protrudes on it, the stalk has been well preserved and can be planted for rooting.

If the place of the cut remains light brown in color, and no signs of moisture are visible, then the stalk is most likely dead. You can try to make a second cut, departing from the edge of 5-8 cm, but its result is rarely encouraging. In the event that even without a new incision, water emerges at the end of the handle, and black spots are visible on the surface of the fresh cut, the handle has rotted.

Safely surviving storage, the cuttings are first soaked for 2 days in warm water, periodically, 1-2 times a day, changing it. It is best to use melt water for soaking; you can take water from a well. Tap water for soaking is not suitable, since chlorine-containing products are used to purify it.

For greater effectiveness, you can add a little honey or aloe juice at the rate of: a tablespoon per bucket of water. After soaking, the roots are placed for another 12-18 hours in special stimulants that contribute to the rapid formation of roots, for example, root.

To make the action of root stimulating preparations more effective, 3-4 shallow cuts of 1.5-2 cm in length are made with a sharp knife on the lower end of the handle (the one that will be directly in the stimulator).

Germination of grape cuttings for beginners

This process can be performed in several ways. The simplest in execution are germination in cups and bottles. You can also use plastic bags, buckets, wooden boxes for germination, but the germination technology is similar in general terms.

Cup sprouting

Three small holes are made in the bottom of a large plastic glass using an awl or the tip of a knife. On a perforated bottom, pour 2-2.5 cm of a mixture of leaf humus and sod land.

The mixture is prepared in a ratio of 1: 1. Then they take a smaller plastic glass, cut off the bottom of it and put it in the center of the large glass. The space between the walls of the glasses is filled with earth, compacted and watered, after which the space inside the smaller glass is washed with river sand. The whole structure is again watered with water, and then the smaller glass is removed.

A 4-5 cm hole is made in the center of the sand with a wooden stick and the lower end of the grape cuttings is inserted into it, and again watered with water. A plastic bottle with a trimmed bottom is put on top of the planted stalk. The sand needs to be kept moist until 4-5 leaves appear on the handle. After that, the bottle can be removed from the handle.

Germination at home in a plastic bottle

Several holes are made in the bottom of a two-liter plastic bottle, and the neck is completely cut off. A small drainage layer is poured into the bottom, and 5-6 cm of the soil mixture are placed on top. The lower edge of the handle is stuck into this mixture.

You need to do this jewelryly: the upper eye on the handle should be on the same level as the cut of the bottle. The space remaining in the bottle is filled with steamed sawdust and a plastic cup is put on top of the bottle. When the upper shoot is so developed that it becomes difficult to fit in a plastic cup, it is removed.

In both cases, a pan is used for watering: water is poured into it and for 15-20 minutes a container with a landed chubuk is placed on it. The secret of successful germination is to provide the part of the cuttings that need to be rooted, more warm and comfortable conditions, than the part where the buds will develop.

It is really easy to propagate grapes with cuttings if you know exactly what and how to do it. But at the same time, at every stage he requires attention and care.

To do this, it is better to germinate a plant with planted cuttings on the windowsill, but it is imperative that the upper eye “looks” in the opposite direction from the window. Usually, germination takes about 3 weeks.

Planting cuttings in open ground

The final step in growing grapes from cuttings is the planting of rooted cuttings in open ground. They land in the second half of May, when the threat of strong night frosts passes.

First, for each shank, they dig a landing pit. At its bottom, with a wooden stake or scrap iron, a recess with a diameter of 10-12 cm is made in the ground. The root system of the stem is installed in this hole, covered with soil, compacted and watered abundantly, spending about 20 liters of water for irrigation of one pit.

When the water is completely absorbed, soil is poured into the landing hole just below the level of the developed upper eye. At the same time, it must be borne in mind that this peephole should be in the landing pit 5-7 cm below the soil level. At the same time, a wooden or metal stake is driven into the bottom of the landing pit, which will serve as a backup for the developing vine bush.

Propagation by green cuttings

Green grape propagation is best done in mid-June. For reproduction, 2 or 3 eye cuttings are cut. They are harvested from stepsons or young shoots. At the bottom, the stalk is cut 4-5 cm below the knot, at the top - 1.5-2 cm above the eye.

Sliced \u200b\u200bcuttings are placed in a bowl of water (rain or well, but not tap water). While the cuttings are soaked, several holes are made in the bottom of the 5 liter plastic bottle, and its top is completely cut off.

For planting, a mixture is prepared from deciduous compost and sod land, mixed in equal proportions. To make the mixture more loose and “airy”, it is better to take the soil for the mixture from molehills as much as possible.

A prepared jar is filled with a soil mixture. The mixture is watered abundantly and carefully compacted, for which the bottle is shaken slightly several times and tapped with its bottom on a hard surface.

An important point: at the top of the can, you first need to strengthen the wooden frame by deepening several racks in the bottle and fixing them. Then a green stalk is prepared for planting. In a two-eyed stalk, the lower leaflet is removed, and the upper one is left. In a three-eyed one, the lower leaf is also removed, and half of the middle and upper leaf is cut off to reduce the area of \u200b\u200bmoisture evaporation.

3-4 shanks are planted in one bottle, deepening them into the soil by 5-6 cm. After that, put on a pre-installed frame and tightly fix the cellophane bag on top of the bottle. The constructed structure with planted cuttings is placed on the windowsill of the southern window, and the ladies remain until the moment of rooting.

If everything is done correctly, then in the first 10-12 days no additional actions are required. Then you need regular - once a week - watering and airing. Rooting lasts 5-6 weeks, after which the rooted green cuttings are planted in the open ground according to the same technology as the woody ones, and by October they have time to grow up to 40 cm in length.

It is really easy to propagate grapes by cuttings, if you know exactly what and how to do on each process of rooting them. But at the same time, you need to understand that any mistake at any stage can cause failure. Therefore, you need to approach each stage responsibly and never rely on chance.