Plum refers to the trees forming the shoots - shoots growing from the root. This harms the plant itself, takes away nutrients and can lead to its death, also creates other problems, affects crop yields. How to deal with the overgrowth of cherries and plums, if it occurs in significant quantities? You can remove it on your own. The details of the deliverance process are discussed below.

What is a shoot

New trees usually grow from the roots of cherries or plums, which have even minor injuries. In the article, we will consider how to get rid of plum overgrowth on a site forever. To do this, you need to get acquainted with the cause of its appearance. This is a variety that is endowed with such a feature, while there are plums (cherries) that do not form such thickets. When growing these crops, these offspring can be a major problem.

What is the harmful growth

Sprouts sprout quickly around plum trees. If you start the process, they will fill a significant area, occupy the garden. Both varietal and grafted specimens of fruit trees are subject to the phenomenon. The sprouted newly formed greens and the main plant have a single root system. To learn how to deal with the emerging plum shoots, and how important it is, you need to understand that each sprout continuously feeds during the growing season. Due to the fact that the amount of substances consumed for development and growth is significant, the yield is reduced.

How to get rid of overgrown?

Causes

The following list of causes leads to this disaster:

• Twice as many shoots are formed in root-owning trees, compared with grafted (on seed stocks).
• Violation of agricultural technology during planting. Exposure of roots at high placement of a tree or as a result of watering with a stream.
• Failure to comply with the technical conditions at the time of grafting the varietal branch to the stock. For example, incompatibility with the scion disrupts the metabolism, which depletes the roots. The plant forms shoots to compensate for malnutrition.
• Inappropriate care after vaccination or planting. For example, improper binding in the grafted part of the plant. If it is tight, a thickening near it, the tape may cut into the wood. There is an outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the roots. Overgrowth is a defensive reaction of a tree, because it nourishes the root system.
• Damage to the roots. The reason is a high landing, their proximity to the surface, frequent injury. From the adnexal buds, root shoots develop at the sites of damage.
• Incorrect crown formation. Total pruning robs the roots of sufficient nutrition. This violation of the proportionality of the upper and lower parts leads to the formation of greenery at the roots.
• Depressing conditions: drought, freezing.

Malicious greens reproduce at the bottom of trees, whether it be a cherry or a plum. During the summer season, about 20 young sprouts of various sizes appear. If the shoot arose on a rooted varietal tree, it is suitable for propagation. But the grafted wild bird gives rise to wild growth, which must be disposed of regularly.

Plum trees

Ways to deal with shoots

How to destroy unwanted greens that have arisen for various reasons in certain situations, as well as what prevention is required? Consider what kind of struggle is carried out for each case:

1. When the roots are exposed, they are covered with soil. But measures must be taken at the time of landing, not allowing its high type.
2. Damage to the roots of a highly planted tree is avoided by replacing digging by loosening and mulching the soil.
3. An incorrectly made vaccine strapping is a tight tape. It needs to be replaced on time with a weak one in the area of \u200b\u200bthe vaccination site.
4. The incompatibility of the scion and stock is manifested in their inappropriate thickness. The correct vaccination technology must be observed.
5. Disproportionate pruning of the crown is a consequence of a total procedure that must be excluded. You can divide it into several methods, preserving the parts capable of photosynthesis.
6. It is recommended to cut the frozen tree by planting newly ripened shoots, otherwise it will gradually dry out.

These methods are more likely to relate to prevention. But it is also important to be able to remove the shoots. It should be removed from the very base of the root, leaving almost no stumps. If they are left, they must be treated with drugs. You can remove young shoots in the early spring or late fall. But if there is snow, or the soil is frozen, a problem may arise when eliminating sprouts at the bases of horizontal roots under the ground.

Most often they get rid of the shoots at ground level, since the stumps overgrow again, thicken. Around the cherry or plum tree during the summer, a shrub can form. Often you have to use a saw. How to remove excess drain from the site using effective methods that do not damage horizontal roots? Consider a number of methods.

Sometimes a saw is used

Growth Removal Instructions

To permanently eliminate the shoot in 2 years, you need to cut it off, leaving a stump that is treated with a clean Roundup. When planting plums, a variety is carefully chosen, from which abundant shoots are formed at:

• Local red;
• Ochakov yellow;
• Hungarian ordinary;
• Hungarian Italian.

A small percentage (30% or less) is observed in the following varieties (plums almost without overgrowth):

• Stanley
• Renkold Altana;
• Anna Shpet.

Pay attention to stockstock when vaccinated. A small number of root processes or their absence is observed in VVA-1, "Friendship", "Eureka-99", "Kuban", compatible with all varieties with rare exceptions.

A number of the following methods are also used:

• Pruning is the easiest way. Act below the soil level. Places cut cut var. The overgrowth that has arisen on the plum trunk is also removed.
• Insulation is carried out by closing with moistened and trampled into the soil cardboard with a radius of 5 m from the trunk. Roofing material is applied from above, covered with sand and soil. You can sow grass.
• Mulching the earth around the plum, which retains moisture and prevents the development of sprouts.
• Chemistry uses include arboricides and herbicides. The first are used if there are other fruit plants in the garden. In stumps, holes are drilled and the product is poured there, covering the treated area with a film for a week. Herbicides Roundup and Tornado are weaker in action, diluted with water.

The advantages and disadvantages of the methods are as follows. The pruner is easy to use, but requires follow-up care. When isolated, the landscape deteriorates. Chemistry can affect other cultures, although effective in its effects. Similar approaches are used in solving the issue: how to get rid of excess cherry in the garden forever.

Pursuing the cultivation of cherries on a personal plot, many gardeners are faced with the need to cut and uproot trees. Such work presents certain difficulties, since it is necessary not only to cut the tree, but also to get rid of all the roots, the length of which can reach 3-5 meters.

In this article, we will tell you how to get rid of cherries and how to destroy the roots of trees in a personal plot. Despite the apparent complexity, it is quite possible for every gardener to do such a job. It is only necessary to properly plan all the work in the garden, and you can easily uproot problem trees on the site.

We get rid of basal shoots

Most fruit trees, and cherries in particular, are able to form a large number of root shoots, which impairs fruiting and takes life-giving juices from trees. Therefore, the gardener must necessarily remove basal shoots, not allowing small cuttings to develop and weaken the main tree.

Just cutting off the basal shoots is not enough, the cherry root and growth point will remain in the ground, from which a new shoot will appear literally in a few weeks. Such shoots can appear constantly from unprocessed growth points, so root growth should be removed correctly.

To properly remove the basal growth of cherries, it is necessary to carefully dig each such plant directly to the root of the main tree. Next, carefully cut the shoots under the root, and process the growth point on the main root of the cherry with garden var. The latter is necessary to prevent the re-formation of root shoots from the roots of the tree. Remember that the sooner you begin to remove basal shoots, the easier it is to get rid of it and the less cherry will be weakened on the site, and, consequently, you can get an excellent harvest.

Root system

Adult cherries can have a powerful root system with a main root, the length of which reaches 3-5 meters. Experienced gardeners argue that in adult trees, the underground part in its size corresponds to the aboveground part of the tree. Accordingly, if the height of your cherry is 3-5 meters, then the roots of the tree will have similar dimensions.

The main central root can grow both deep and parallel to the ground at a depth of two to three meters. Lateral branches of the roots, and they can be up to a dozen, can also have a length of up to 2-3 meters. On the side branches of the cherry there are small alveoli roots that are responsible for the nutrition of the trees with the corresponding trace elements and for the delivery of moisture from the ground to the tree itself.

How to uproot a tree on a site

It should be said that there are several ways to uproot fruit trees on a site. Some gardeners simply cut the cherry under the root, leaving the root system in the ground, while someone tries to burn the roots with chemicals or digs them out of the ground to the maximum.

We will tell in more detail about how to uproot cherries and subsequently easily plant various fruit trees on an empty seat in the garden.

First of all, you need to decide how you will perform this work. If you have the opportunity to order a tractor, then you can slightly file the cherry, leaving the trunk at a height of a meter and a half.

Next, the main roots are carefully dug up, a strong cable is tied to a tree, and the tractor is pulled out of the ground with the tractor along with the roots. Such a technology of work allows you to get most of the main roots of the cherry from the ground, and subsequently the remaining small roots do not pose any problem and die quickly.

If it is not possible to order such special equipment for this work, then you can either independently try to dig out all the main roots of the cherry or use the old-time antiquated method using the appropriate chemicals. The latter method using chemicals is of great interest. We describe how to remove cherries using chemicals.

Cherry tree is cut down under the root in autumn, leaving a stump about 30 centimeters high. Further, in the stump of cherries, using a drill, make numerous holes with the maximum possible depth of 20-30 centimeters. You will need to make a solution based on nitrate, for which about 100 grams of nitrate is diluted in a liter of water. We will get a concentrated solution, which is poured into numerous holes made in hemp. Next, the holes are closed with corks or wooden plugs. Leave a cherry stump with chemicals until spring.

Saltpeter is highly active and will quickly burn the entire cherry root system. The gardener will only have to wait until spring, after which, pour the diesel fuel or any other flammable liquid into the existing holes in the stump and set fire to the stump. In an hour, the cherry wood will completely burn out, and the roots burned with nitrate will not cause any problems and soon they will simply rot in the ground.

Self-manual removal of the roots of the cherry is a certain difficulty. In fact, you’ll have to dig a trunk circle with a radius of three meters, and you will have to dig to the same three-meter depth. Such work will take several days.

Therefore, it is much easier to either use the appropriate special equipment and force to tear out the dug cherry from the ground, or apply the technology using nitrate or any other active chemical. But to use salt for this work is not recommended. The fact is that salts pollute the site, and subsequently adversely affect the growth of vegetables and fruits in the garden. Therefore, we would not recommend that you use harmful salt for these purposes.

Conclusion

Getting rid of cherries in the garden is not difficult. In this case, the gardener must remove all the roots of the cherry, which can reach three meters in length. Such work can be done as appropriate by special equipment, to dig up the roots manually, or to use saltpeter, which is poured into small holes in the stump.

Having correctly completed this work, you can not only cut down the cherry, but also completely get rid of the roots in the ground. After all, they (roots) could cause certain difficulties, constantly releasing basal cherry shoots and selecting micronutrients from the soil.

Hello dear friends. Cherry is a wonderful and rather unpretentious tree with an annual harvest. But she, like plums, has one feature: the annual formation of numerous root shoots. The older the tree, the more it forms at a greater distance from the mother tree - sometimes tens of meters.

This brings a lot of inconvenience in the garden and the vegetable garden, and young trees take away nutrients from the fruiting cherry and drain it. Every year, hundreds of thousands of gardeners ask themselves a question: how to get rid of cherries in the area with a minimum of effort and cost.

Varieties of cherries and the ability to give root shoots

There is no benefit from the shoots on the grafted cherry, as all of it will be wild. Own varieties give healthy and good shoots, so they can be used for propagation of cherries by root shoots.

To do this, some of the strongest pieces (2-3, no more so that the tree itself does not suffer) must be left, and the next one, excavated and transplanted to a permanent place or sent for sale.

These varieties include:

• Vladimirskaya
• Fur coat
• Apukhtipskaya
• Krasnopahapskaya.

Varietal trees Pamyat Enikeeva, Robin, Rastorguevskaya, Molodezhnaya, Vole give a lot of shoots, but it is absolutely not suitable for reproduction.

Of the old varieties, there is only one cherry that does not produce shoots at all: this is any variety grafted on the seed stock of Shubinka or Vladimirskaya (they warn about this in nurseries).

Therefore, always check with the seller on which rootstock the tree is grafted!

The minimum number of root shoots give varieties Izmailovskaya and AVCH-2.

Bushy varieties Lyubskaya, Bagryannaya, Generous, Shokoladnitsa, Griot of Ostheim, and Early English also do not give growth.

How to get rid of cherries and plums

If the garden has already been laid, then very often the problem of how and how to get this shoot growing out in the most unexpected places every year is quite acute.

Gardeners have long used the method of digging - and make a huge mistake. They do not know that having dug up one shoot in the root, they launch the program for replacing it with a few plants inherent in all shoots — and next year, 3-4 shoots will appear in the same place, which will be dug up again. And in a few years you will only have to dig and dig endlessly.

How to properly remove shoots?

Everything is very simple: they must be cut with a secateurs at ground level at a height of 15-20-30 cm. And that’s it! This root of vegetation will not give more. In this way, for several years, you can completely "wean" the tree to multiply by root shoots, and all efforts to direct the ripening of the crop.

The second way, how to deal with unwanted cherry vegetation, requires initially quite complicated work, but it will help to forget about this problem for a long time.

It is based on the feature that the shoot is formed only on the roots, which are located 30-40 cm from the soil surface. Therefore, around a young tree with a diameter of 1-1.5 meters, it is necessary to dig in a circle sheets of slate, roofing or plastic to a depth of 50 cm - they will not allow the roots to grow horizontally, but will send them deep.

Overgrowth will form inside the circle - here it must be either cut out or you can use this secret: close the soil with a dense plant mulch with a thickness of at least 10 cm (maximum 20 cm) near the trunk (there may be more).

This can be mowed grass, straw, dry leaves from the forest, plant tops, for which kitchen waste can also be sent. You can even use sawdust, but they must first be moistened with a solution of nitrogen fertilizers.

Through this layer only individual shoots will be able to break through, which already need to be destroyed by cutting. Plus, the rotting mulch will be an additional fertilizer, retain moisture at the roots, and beneficial microorganisms and insects develop in it.

Several times during the season, the mulch should be poured so that the thickness of the layer does not decrease.

Chemistry from the overgrowth - pros and cons

A frequent question on the forums is it possible to use herbicides to remove root shoots on trees?

And, indeed, it would seem - sprayed the shoots and all, they died. But, there is one big “but!”. The shoots have a common root system with a uterine tree, they share common juices. And the herbicide that fell on the foliage of the shoot, even located far from the cherry (this applies to plums, and sea buckthorn, and to ornamental trees and shrubs), falls into the main tree with juices, which can lead to its death.

Therefore, experienced gardeners strongly do not recommend the use of such drugs.

Pest Control

But for the destruction of shoots on the stumps of carved trees, herbicides are an excellent solution. You can use any drugs based on glyphosphate - Tornado, Roundup, Smersh, Hurricane.

They must be diluted with water 1: 3, and in the stump, drill several holes where to pour the mixture. Top must cover with plastic or polyethylene. This will exclude spraying on neighboring plants during rain, as well as the destruction of the drug from the sun's ultraviolet radiation.

After 2-3 weeks, repeat the procedure - this will kill the stump, it will begin to decompose and no uprooting is required.

Propagation of cherries by shoots

Recently, in the Ural gardens, there is less cherry. And the main reason here is that its varieties now grown in our zone are very affected by the very dangerous fungal disease coccomycosis. When infected with coccomycosis, they give a very small crop of poor quality or do not give it at all. In addition, cherry plants weakened by this disease are severely damaged by frost even in ordinary winters and quickly fall out. To combat this disease, plants are treated with fungicide solutions, which is not always effective and very time-consuming. Therefore, it is not always used by gardeners.

With the rapid death of cherry plants when they become infected with coccomycosis, gardeners are often forced to buy new seedlings for replacement. However, they do not always buy varietal seedlings grown in reputable nurseries. Often in such cases, seedlings are purchased from private traders or even from random persons. And all this leads to clogging of the gardens with random low-resistance, low-yielding, self-infertile, low quality fruit plants. The method of producing cherry seedlings by growing its overgrowth is in this case the main source of falsified and substandard seedlings entering the market. Therefore, gardeners should be careful not to buy such seedlings.

But gardeners may not have to resort to buying new cherry seedlings when only the aerial parts of the plant die, since the growth of the overgrowth usually always starts from the roots of this plant. And all the cherry seedlings purchased in reputable large nurseries are grown only from green cuttings. Therefore, the root shoot of such plants is always a varietal crop, and seedlings grown from it can successfully replace the fallen plants.

In amateur gardens of the Urals and Siberia, cherries are propagated mainly by shoots (offspring) or root cuttings. The advantage of these methods is the ability to quickly restore trees after winter freezing.

Reproduction by shoots is considered one of the easiest ways in amateur gardening, although there is a high probability of clogging the site with impurities of low value forms.

Therefore, only varietal or selected root plants are suitable for this method, in which cherries of the same variety as the parent plants grow from the shoot.

It should be borne in mind that small-fruited, low-yielding forms that produce a lot of shoots are often found in root crops. Such forms are used only as stocks.

The advantages of overgrown cherries include higher winter hardiness. Even if after a harsh winter the whole aerial part of the plant is badly damaged or dies, the plant can easily be restored from the overgrowth, which will certainly appear.

But overgrown plants have serious drawbacks. This is a later entry into fruiting in comparison with grafted seedlings, clogging of aisles with shoots, which form a lot, etc. As a rule, they usually begin to bear fruit in the fourth year, and give a noticeable harvest from the age of five.

For propagation by the shoot, such root plants are selected so that there is not a large number of shoots near them. The aboveground parts of the offspring must be developed and strong, 1-2 years of age.

Long-term large offspring should not be taken for planting, because they usually have a very weak root system, and feed mainly on the mother plant.

It is also not recommended to dig out a shoot located closer than 1 meter to the mother plant, since this shoot has practically no roots, but also feeds on the mother plant, and it is also possible to accidentally damage the root system of an adult plant.

The best root offspring are those plants that grow in a sufficiently lit place, and not in the shadow of a uterine plant.

Harvesting shoots is better as follows. In early spring, before buds open or in early October in cloudy weather, the root coming from the mother plant is cut at some distance from the shoot, leaving the plant in place without digging it to form its own roots. The offspring is shortened by one third of the aerial part. Then it must be watered and fertilized, it is advisable to do the second dressing at the end of June.

If there are no fibrous roots on the skeletal root, then it is necessary to stimulate their rapid formation. For this, it is necessary to cut the skeletal root at a distance of 15-20 cm from the place of attachment of the shoots to it. But this must be done from the side farther from the uterine tree stem. In this form, it is necessary to leave the shoots until the fall of next year.

During the growing season, a root lobe forms at the root rupture site. In autumn, it is necessary to chop the skeletal root on the other side of the shoot.

After a year, young shoots are dug up. If the plant has good roots, then it is planted in a permanent place, deepened by 7-8 cm. The aerial part is cut off a third or half of the length in early spring to bring it into line with the root system. And if the roots of a young plant are weak, then it is planted on a ridge for growing.

In addition to this method of obtaining root plants, the propagation of selected high-quality, productive varieties of cherry root cuttings is also used.

To do this, in the early spring, dig out the roots at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from the stem and cut sections of 10-15 cm long from a part of the root 0.4-1.5 cm thick. Plant them on ridges or grooves and cover with a film cover,

The main condition in the first month after planting is to prevent the slightest drying of the soil, otherwise the cuttings will not germinate.

If several buds sprout on the handle, the strongest shoot is left, the rest are removed. During the growing season (end of June - July), fertilizing is carried out 2-3 times with urea or slurry (1: 7).

It is better to dig up plants in the spring of next year, selecting the strongest of them. The rest are growing for another season.

If the cuttings are prepared in the fall, then until spring planting they are stored in the basement in moist sand at a temperature of 0-2 ° C.

In order for young root-bearing plants to bear fruit for a long time, it is necessary to constantly engage in their formation.

For this, from the offspring that will soon grow in young plants, those that are closer to the stem (3-4) are left, they will serve as a replacement for fruiting and gradually aging plants, the remaining offsprings are cut annually at the base of the soil.

If we periodically make up for the loss of depleted soil and fight pests and diseases, then we can get excellent harvest from such plants for many, many years.

As a result of this formation, overgrown cherries gradually turn into a bush with shoots of different ages, coming from the ground, which can later be easily turned into independent plants.

When the old part of the bush begins to bear fruit poorly, the mother plant must be cut close to the surface of the soil. By this time, a young “shift” should be prepared in the form of the left 3-4 most powerful root offspring, which form and cut in the described way.

If we periodically make up for the loss of depleted soil and fight pests and diseases, then we can get excellent harvest from such plants for many, many years.

Excessive shoots in plants must be ruthlessly removed to the very base. To do this, dig the soil and cut the shoots onto the ring to the base of the stem or skeletal root. If you leave at least a small stump, then an even more powerful shoot will develop.

V. G. Shafransky

Cherry is one of the most unpretentious and drought tolerant plant species, and almost everyone likes its fruits. Perhaps the only drawback of this tree is the annually appearing sprouts, from which I can’t save, as you don’t cut them down. If you are tired of annually (and often several times a season) to deal with their removal, then knowledge of how to get rid of the overgrown cherries on the site will be very useful.

Causes of the processes

It would seem that this is an obvious step, but even experienced gardeners sometimes neglect it. But you only need to carefully study this issue once, and reducing the number of processes will become a matter of technology. So, there can be several reasons for the appearance of shoots:

• freezing of a tree due to a snowless and cold winter;
• burns received in cool and damp spring weather;
• damage to the roots when digging up soil near a tree;
• too much cropped crown;
• various diseases and pests.

Summarizing these reasons, we can say that with any negative impact, the cherry begins active reproduction by root shoots.

Care Rules

Having ascertained the main reasons provoking the rapid growth of the shoots, You can formulate a series of rules for proper cherry care.

• Cardinal pruning of old plants is unacceptable. And young trees require timely removal of shoots.
• Any “excavation” under the tree and planting of vegetable or fruit crops are contraindicated. Even minor damage to the root system can cause overgrowth.
• Watering the plant should be rare and plentiful. The number of shoots increases if you do this often and little by little.
• It is important to mulch the soil under the trees. Otherwise, in hot weather, the soil cracks, which leads to damage to the roots and undesirable consequences.
• If you have the forces and time around the circumference of the trunk at a distance of one meter, you can bury slate sheets. Usually it is enough to do this at a depth of 50 cm. Instead of slate, you can use other unnecessary material (corrugated board, sheets of tin, and so on). As a result, the processes appear only within this circle, not spreading throughout the site.
• Enjoying the fruits of cherry, you can not spit the seeds on the ground, as seedlings can deliver no less trouble.
• If possible, cherry should be planted in the shade of large trees. So it will give much less processes than when located on an unshaded open space.

These simple rules will help reduce the scale of the problems, but they can be completely avoided only with competent actions at the stage of selecting seedlings.

Variety Selection

Thanks to the achievements of botany, gardeners have the opportunity, in general, not to waste time and energy on an endless struggle with the shoots. Varietal trees grafted on seed stocks of the Shubinka or Vladimirskaya varieties do not form overgrown trees at all. In some cases, it would be a reasonable solution to completely get rid of the cherries on the plot and plant the indicated varieties.

If for some reason it was not possible to find them, then you can make a choice in favor of Izmailovsky or AVCH-2 - they give a minimum of processes. Among the bushy varieties can be distinguished "Early English", "Lyubskaya", "Griot of Ostheim", "Chocolate", "Crimson" and "Generous", which also will not cause trouble for their processes.

Prevention in any case is much more effective than manual labor to remove shoots. Therefore, small additional knowledge about the seedlings will be useful.

• Most of the headaches to gardeners are delivered by their own seedlings. But their shoots do not lose their varietal qualities, therefore such "offspring" can serve as an equivalent replacement for the aged main tree. And also they can be sold. Among representatives of this variety, one can distinguish such species as Krasnopakharskaya, Apukhtinsky, and Shubinka.
• Varietal trees from clonal stocks also produce a lot of overgrowth, but these are only wild animals, completely unsuitable for reproduction. The prospect of having a lot of overgrowth on the site, which is of no value, probably will not please anyone. Therefore, you should not get carried away with varieties "Robin", "Youth", "Memory of Yenikeyev", "Rastorguevskaya".

Before buying a seedling, you should always be interested in whether it is grafted, or is it a root plant. It is recommended to choose those varieties that are grown on seed stocks. The problem of overgrowth removal will occur annually. When planting a young plant, you need to straighten the roots so that they are directed downward, otherwise processes will appear soon.

Prevention

Unfortunately, gardeners find out about preventive measures and preventing the emergence of shoots too late - when the choice of seedlings was made long ago and, having turned into mature plants, they already gave abundant shoots. At this stage, you need to use the described recommendations for proper care of plants, but it is equally important to organize the correct removal of the shoots. First, we will make a small generalization of the practical experience of experienced gardeners.

• Many argue that removing unwanted shoots in the spring immediately after bud swelling helps to reduce their growth rate.
• Some mow the not coarse growth with a lawn mower. It grows all the same, but with this method, energy and time are saved.
• Most experts agree that the method of removal of the shoots is not critical. The main thing is to do it on time - immediately after their appearance, not allowing to gain strength. Only then will there be less of them;

These are the advice of ordinary people. But there are scientifically based recommendations from the field of botany. They come down to the fact that you need to buy and plant those varieties that do not produce shoots at all. Due to such an impeccable, but remote from the reality of ordinary people, the position of the scientific community, among gardeners to this day there is no consensus on the correct way to remove processes.

Methods for removing shoots

There are two main methods for mechanically removing shoots. As practice shows, if a person has become a follower of one of them, then ideological considerations will no longer allow him to try the second method. The logic and philosophy of these methods are so opposite. First, consider the one that is more labor intensive. It includes several steps:

• first you need to dig the shoot to the place where it grows from the horizontal root of the tree;
• then gently chop it off without leaving a hemp;
• then carefully treat this section of the root with garden varieties so that in the future nothing grows there and the tree does not become infected with diseases;
• it remains to bury this hole and trample.

Such a simple, but energy-consuming operation must be done with all the shoots that are on the site. Proponents of this method argue that this is the only way to solve the problem.

The second method takes much less time and effort. It consists in the fact that the processes must be cut off with a secateurs at ground level. Adherents of this method argue that the shoot cannot exist without the above-ground part, therefore, by cutting it off, you can gradually "wean" the cherry from the craving for propagation by root shoots. That is, at this place a new shoot will not appear, and all the forces of the tree will be concentrated on the ripening of the crop.

It is very difficult for novice gardeners to understand this issue and take sides. The two warring camps not only consider each other incompetent, but are also accused of provoking the growth of new shoots. Proponents of the method of digging argue that when cutting the shoots, hemp and buds remain in the ground, from which even more powerful sprouts will grow next year.

Adherents of the cutting method are sure that when digging a shoot with a root from the plant, the substitution program inherent in the undergrowth cultures is launched, and next year several shoots will appear in the same place. The parties believe that the method of the opposite side not only does not solve the problem, but also increases its scale.

As already mentioned, a scientific study of this issue has not been conducted and is not planned. In this situation, everyone is forced to act at their discretion. Common sense suggests that you first need to try out a less laborious method.

Drastic measures

The previous recommendations were intended for those who love and want to grow cherries, and at the same time looking for effective ways to deal with the shoots. But there are those who do not like the fruits of this tree. And if such a person, as a result of a purchase or inheritance, becomes the owner of a site with a running cherry orchard, then radical measures cannot be dispensed with. There are several ways to solve the problem of how to remove shoots.

• The fastest and most efficient way is to dig everything up with an excavator or tractor. Of course, if heavy equipment can stop by the site, and no buildings interfere with its passage directly to the cherry orchard.
• But also with the help of heavy equipment you can pull out the main trees along with the roots, after which you can forget about the overgrowth.

• If for some reason the mechanized method is unacceptable, then you can cut off all the processes and cut down the main trees, and then manually dig and uproot the roots of the plants.
• If the site is quite large, and the territory of the cherry orchard is not needed for any purpose right now, then you can do just cutting and sawing off what is on the surface and wait until the roots rot naturally. True, the operation for mowing the shoots will have to be performed several times during the season, but in a couple of years such a need will disappear, because the plants cannot survive without the aerial parts.

These methods are also suitable for those who decided to stop the annual struggle with the shoots and plant on their site those varieties of cherries that, in general, do not produce shoots.

An even more radical method of solving the problem is the use of herbicides, which will help to destroy all overgrowths. This is dangerous not only when removing the overgrowth while maintaining the mother tree, but also with the complete elimination of the cherry orchard. The pesticide, of course, will fulfill its main function and cause the death of plants, penetrating their roots. However, it will remain in the ground, showing persistent residual effects. And the decay of the herbicide will not occur as fast as its manufacturers assure. In addition, the use of a chemical leads only to the death of plants; the need to dig and root out the roots still remains.

Thus, the most effective way to get rid of cherries in the area is to remove existing trees with roots. Instead, you need to purchase and plant varietal seedlings on seed stock that do not produce shoots that will only bear fruit well. So far, modern botany cannot offer a better method.

See below for how to get rid of cherries.