Transplanting roses: the process itself and the right time. Is it possible to transplant a rose in summer

Every gardener knows that there is nothing permanent in the garden, therefore, plants on the plots can often change their place at the request of the owner. At the same time, it is necessary to plant and transplant not only young and recently purchased seedlings, but also already adult plants, for example, rose bushes. And in order to properly transplant a rose, you need to know a few subtleties of this process.

When to transplant a rose?

The best time to transplant an adult rose is in early spring or late autumn. In regions where frosts occur earlier, it is worth giving preference to spring, then there should be no problems with the wintering of bushes. If you cannot transplant in the spring, then it is better to do this at the end of August - mid-September.

Should you replant roses in summer?

In most cases, it happens that the redevelopment of the garden is a spontaneous decision made against the background of already blossoming "newcomers" in the midst of summer, when no one thinks about winter yet. Summer is not the most the best time for transplanting roses, but if there is no other way out, then this option is possible. Then the gardener will need additional trouble to help the plant take root in a new place: you will have to sacrifice flowering and make "strong" pruning.

A large shrub is pruned to 40-50 cm, and some of its shoots can be completely removed to save the strength of the rose in the future. It can also be a chance to give the bush the desired shape. If the bush is still small, then it will be enough to cut off the unripe shoots and remove the existing buds and flowers.

A rose transplanted in summer will need abundant watering in the first month. The ground around it should not dry out. A good solution will shade the plant for a while and carry out daily spraying of the leaves with plain water. Naturally, the transplant itself should take place on a cloudy day, when there is no scorching sun rays.

Transplanting an adult rose

At the very beginning, you need to make sure that the conditions for growth and flowering in the new place will not be very different from the previous ones. It is better to try to provide the rose with the usual amount of light and protection from the wind at least in the first 2 weeks after transplanting.

After choosing a place, a planting pit is prepared, from which all the roots of weeds are removed. The bottom is filled with compost mixed with horn shavings, which should provide the bush with nutrients, and most importantly, nitrogen. Compost can be replaced with rotted manure. It is advisable to let the pit settle so that the earth and fertilizers settle inside, after which you can start digging out the rose.

It is best to dig up the plant approximately along the projection of its crown, but this is not always possible, so it will be enough to try to dig a bush with the largest possible earthy clod. In rose gardens, equipped according to all the rules, it is quite difficult, because the earth is usually light and loose. Therefore, you need to water the rose well so that the soil holds better around its roots. The lump must be of such a size that the plant can be transferred without damage to a new place.

First, it is better to dig around the bush, and then gradually deepen the resulting trench, trying to get to the base of the bush. In order not to damage the earthen ball and roots, you can wrap the ground from the side of the bush with a cloth or plastic wrap... Long roots that interfere with the extraction of the bush can be chopped off. With further proper care, the rose will be able to quickly restore its root system.

If you have difficulty in pulling out the bush, you can use a lever, which is best suited for a simple crowbar. A shovel and a wooden stick are unlikely to work as a lever, as they can break. After you managed to get the bush, it should be immediately transported to a new place. If a long journey is required to reach a new place, then it is better to wrap an earthen ball and protruding roots with a damp cloth to prevent drying out.

After that, the earth (or a mixture of compost, rotted manure and horn shavings) is poured up to half of the pit and watered abundantly. Then the earth is poured to the required level and watered again. When the water has soaked into the ground, more earth is poured around the bush and compacted well so that there are no large air voids around the roots.

If during digging it was not possible to save an earthen lump, then you need to carefully examine the root system and get rid of diseased and damaged roots. Places of cuts can be processed with liquid clay. Then the bush is placed in a planting hole and gradually buried in so as not to damage the roots.

There are times when plants do not notice the changes that have occurred. However, in most cases of summer transplantation, the rose “sits” for a long time before starting active growth again. But do not forget that roses are tenacious enough to endure the manipulations described above.

Over time, each grower is faced with the need to transplant roses to another place. Moreover, it can be not only young seedlings, but also mature, formed bushes. But before proceeding with the resettlement, it is necessary to study the rules for the procedure and take into account the requirements of the culture, since ignoring them can lead to a long adaptation of the rose, and sometimes to the death of the bush. It is important to hold preliminary preparation site and get acquainted with the features further care so that the plant quickly recovers and grows.

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  Optimal timing

  You can transplant roses in early spring and in the fall. But depending on the region, this period may shift.

  In the conditions of the middle zone and the Moscow region, it is best to transplant roses in the fall, from early September to early October. The duration of this period depends on the air temperature, the higher it is, the later the transplant should be carried out. But so that before the onset of frost was at least 2-3 weeks. This time is necessary so that the seedlings can fully take root before the arrival of winter. Autumn transplant makes it possible to get full-fledged rose bushes by spring, which will bloom next season.

  In case of a premature onset of frost, the procedure must be postponed until spring, since the bushes, not having time to take root, will freeze out in winter.

  In Siberia and the Urals, this procedure should be carried out in early spring, when the air temperature during the day warms up to 10-12 degrees, and at night it will not drop below 5 degrees. In the case of an earlier planting, roses may suffer from recurrent frosts, since they will not be able to fully take root.

  At late landing plants will adapt for a long time in a new place, since the increased air temperature stimulates active vegetation. And this means that the bushes need to spend energy not only on rooting, but also on the development of new shoots and leaves. Sometimes this can cause the death of the bush.

  Features of the transplant

  Before you start transplanting roses, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of the procedure. This will help the grower avoid mistakes that will negatively affect further development bushes.

  Even minor recommendations should not be ignored, because when transplanting, all of them are of great importance.

  

  Seat selection

  Roses prefer to grow in sunny open areas, especially in the first half of the day, when moisture evaporates intensively from the leaves. This will help reduce the risk of developing fungal diseases in the future.

  You should not place bushes near spreading trees and bushes, as they will not only take away everything nutrients from the soil, but also create a shade. In this case, roses will not be able to fully develop, bloom, and will also be susceptible to black spot and powdery mildew.

  The best place for a rose garden is the southeast or southwest side of the garden.

  

  Site preparation

  Roses are undemanding to the composition of the soil, but prefer loams with neutral acidity in the range of 6.5-7.0 pH. When landing in clay soil with an intensive process of mineralization, a slightly acidic environment is allowed at a level of 7.5 pH. Sandy soil is also suitable for growing a rose garden, but it should be understood that in winter it freezes quickly, and in summer it overheats, in addition, nutrients are quickly washed out of it. Therefore, it is necessary to introduce humus and peat in advance so that the bushes can fully develop.

  Bedding groundwater should not be closer than 1–1.2 m to the soil surface, since the root system of grafted bushes reaches 1 m in depth.

  Roses should not be planted in places where moisture stagnates, as such soil is unable to warm up enough and restricts air access to the roots.

  The preparation of a new site must be carried out 2-3 weeks before the procedure, or in the fall for a spring transplant. The site should be dug to the depth of the shovel and the roots should be carefully removed. perennial weeds... Smooth the surface to avoid any depressions and elevations.

  Proper preparation of the site will enable the soil to settle in time and help to avoid excessive deepening of the root collar.

  Features of the landing pit

  Transplant holes should also be dug in advance. Their depth and width should be slightly larger than the root system of the seedling. They are often dug out 30–40 cm in diameter and 50–70 cm in depth. When transplanting hybrid tea, polyanthus varieties and floribunda, planting pits must be made at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. It is recommended to place standard, curly and climbing types at a distance of 1 meter, and miniature and curb ones - 20 cm.

  The bush grooves should be more than half filled with a special nutrient mixture, which will help provide the plant with the necessary nutrition at the initial stage. To prepare it, you will need to mix the components in the following proportion:

  • 30% - garden land;
  • 30% - peat;
  • 20% - humus;
  • 20% - sand;
  • 20 g - superphosphate;
  • 10 g - potassium sulfate.

  The resulting mixture should be filled with 2/3 of the planting pits of the total volume at least 10 days before transplanting. This will enable the nutrient layer to settle and compact by the required time.

  Preparing bushes for transplanting

  One or two days before replanting the bushes to a new place, they should be watered. This will help prevent unnecessary root damage.

  

  Preparing a rose bush for transplanting: pruning shoots and roots

  The shoots of the bushes must be shortened to 20 cm in height, and the roots should be cut based on the type of roses:

  • bush 20 cm in length;
  • curly and climbing varieties- half the length;
  • standard - 1/3 of the length.

  You should know that grafted varieties form a taproot, which goes into the depths, and roses on their own roots form a superficial root system. Therefore, when digging out bushes, this feature should be taken into account.

  In the future, the procedure for extracting adult bushes is carried out as follows:

  • with a shovel, mark a circle around the plant, taking into account the location of the root system;
  • dig a bush from all sides, gradually deepening into the soil;
  • having reached the required depth, place a crowbar under the root, which will play the role of a lever when uprooting;
  • put a bush with a lump of earth on a cloth and transfer to a new place.

  The main methods of transplantation

  There are two main ways to transplant roses in open ground: classic and wet.

  The first option is used if it was not possible to save the earthen lump. In this case, it is necessary to initially inspect the roots and cut off all damaged and broken areas with a secateurs. Then it is recommended to put the seedlings in water for 2 hours to activate biological processes.

  

  The classic way to transplant roses

  After that, you should start planting. in the classic way:

  • make a hill in the center of the planting pit, on which all the roots are evenly distributed;
  • the grafting site should be located 3-5 cm below the soil level;
  • water the bush abundantly and cover half of the recess with earth;
  • compact the intermediate layer;
  • water the seedling again and wait until the moisture is completely absorbed;
  • cover with earth completely;
  • compact the soil to eliminate voids.

  

  Wet way of transplanting roses

  The second option is simpler and more convenient. For wet way it is necessary to preserve the earthen lump on the roots as much as possible. In the future, the transplant is carried out in the following order:

  • pour a bucket of water into the landing well;
  • without waiting for absorption, put the bush in the middle so that the root collar is 5 cm below the soil level;
  • top up another half a bucket of water on top;
  • allow moisture to be completely absorbed, dissolving the earth and deepening the roots of the rose;
  • fill the hole with earth and compact the surface well.

  After the transplant, rose bushes are not recommended to be disturbed for at least 4 years, since they need time to fully adapt to a new place. Therefore, it is recommended to immediately take into account all the peculiarities of the culture and follow the rules of the procedure.

  Transplanting a room rose

  Indoor rose must be replanted annually in spring at the end of February - at the beginning of March. It is best to rely on the favorable periods of the growing moon indicated in lunar calendar... This will help reduce the adaptation period of the plant after transplanting.

  For a flower, you should pick up a pot 2-3 cm larger than the previous one with drain holes... Soil for roses can be purchased at the store or prepared in this ratio: 2 parts of turf, 1 part of sand and 1 part of peat or humus.

  Transplant room rose should be carried out in the following sequence:

  1. 1. Water the plant beforehand.
  2. 2. Cut the shoots 1/3 of their length.
  3. 3. Pour into new pot drainage layer 1 cm and on top a layer of soil 2 cm.

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Every gardener has to spend a lot of time in the garden. Redo something, replant plants. This is facilitated by the search better conditions for them, various aesthetic tasks. All this gives a lot of trouble. In addition to only purchased ones, perennial adult bushes, such as roses, are also subject to transplantation. But this operation also requires certain techniques.

Rose transplant dates

The best time to transplant roses is in early spring and late summer, until mid-September.

Sometimes it happens that the transplanted rose does not have time to take root, and the frost is already hitting. Gardeners often hold discussions about why not replant roses in the summer like many other flowers.

The fact is that roses are not very fond of not only summer transplants, but they also do not like when they are transplanted at all. Therefore, it is better to do this infrequently. But if there is no other way out, then they say that sometimes it is possible. But at the same time, the beauties will become capricious, and flowering in the next season can hardly be expected.

At the beginning of the transplant, it is advised to cut the bush to the maximum - then all the forces in the new place will throw the roots on themselves, get stronger and take root. If the bush is tall, then the shoots leave no more than half a meter. At the same time, young, green shoots, as well as buds and flowers, are cut off. If the bush is small, then you still need to cut it off, but try not to damage the thin roots.

After the summer transplant, you need to water the roses often. Moist soil helps the roots take in nutrients.

But the direct rays of the sun are undesirable. Therefore, it is better to shade the plants as much as possible. Roses love spraying, a cool shower, and the transplant itself is best done on a cloudy day.

Rose transplant stages:

1. First you need to dig a planting hole. Remove weeds and their roots from it and nearby. It is advisable that the pit stand for several days, and the earth subsided slightly.
2. Roses are advised not so much to transplant as to reload. This is the process of digging out the roots along with a clod of earth. Thus, the rhizome will not have to take root for a long time, and the roses will not get sick. But handling roses is not easy. The soil around the roots is loose and crumbles immediately. Therefore, the plant is first watered abundantly, and then dug up. Wet ground will hold up well.
3. So that thorny branches do not interfere, they are tied.
4. If the rose bush is large, then it will be very difficult for one person to transfer the roots together with a lump of earth to another place, so it is better to have an assistant.
5. A narrow ditch is dug around the flower, but it needs to be quite deep. This is how an earthen lump is formed. It is tied with a cloth or polyethylene, and buried under the root. Too long rhizomes can be chopped off. With proper care, the rose will not do much harm.
6. A durable tool, such as a crowbar, is inserted under the base of the bush. The shovel in this case may break. Lifting it with a crowbar, pull out the bush and put it on a piece of cloth. It is very convenient to transfer it to a new place on it. If the plant is being prepared for transportation, then the lump is wrapped in a cloth and made sure that it is always wet.
7. A rose with a clod of earth is placed in the finished planting pit. In this case, the level of the ground should remain the same as in the previous place. If necessary, the hole needs to be dug, or vice versa, to fill up the earth.
8. After installing the rose, the pit is filled with earth up to half, and the strapping is removed. After this, the process stops, since the rose needs to be watered abundantly. Wait a while until the water is completely absorbed. Then the earth can be filled up to the top. The rose is watered again, and a tubercle of earth is formed at the base of the plant. Then it is compacted so that no voids remain near the roots.

Roses, despite their beauty and grace, are quite persistent. Although they don't like transplanting flowers, they cannot do without them due to the impoverishment of the soil.

There can be many reasons for transplanting roses, for example, you want to change the design of the site, create a rose garden, or, on the contrary, plant bushes throughout the plot, since they, growing, create an unwanted shadow for each other, and complicate caring for them.

Whatever the circumstances, due to which rose bushes change their place of residence, you need to remember some little secrets of the transplant process:

• You need to pick up appropriate place for the queen of the garden. It should be borne in mind that the rose does not tolerate the neighborhood with many plants, it does not like the shade, and the areas where moisture stagnates will simply destroy the beloved bush.
• The choice of the right time for transplanting roses is also important. Early spring or fall is best.
• The bush should be prepared for transplantation. The first thing to do is prune the shoots. The approximate height of the bush during transplantation can be from 40 to 50 cm.
• A pit is dug with a margin in order to lay drainage on its bottom, on top of which nutritious soil and compost are poured. It is advisable to do all this in advance.

Let the hole brew, not forgetting about watering. The required pit is prepared in at least 2-3 weeks. So the earth is compacted, and nutrients saturate the soil.

• Dig up the roots together with an earthen clod. It should be borne in mind that the roots of a rose bush grow approximately the same diameter as the crown. Therefore, it is worth taking care to damage the roots as little as possible, both when removing them from the ground and when transporting the plant to a new place.
• Watering. It is necessary to moisten well the planting site itself and the planted plant. Even if you have to replant roses in the fall.

So you can protect your favorite roses from the scorching sun, pests and improve their care.

There are several transplant methods, 2 of them are more popular:

• Classical;
• Wet.

And each of them deserves to be used.

How to transplant roses in the classic way

It is best to transplant roses in this way if it did not work out to keep the earthy lump. Then, it is worth carefully examining the roots, assessing the damage, and if the bush is still young enough, then cut off the underdeveloped and damaged ones. After that, it is worth soaking the roots in a solution of humate, a root-forming growth stimulant, for 2 hours.

At the bottom of a previously prepared hole, a hill is made, along which the roots of the rose will be evenly distributed. At the same time, it is important that the grafting site is 3-5 cm below the soil level. Water is poured into the pit, then a layer of soil is poured into approximately half of the depression, well compacted. After that, you will need to water again. Now the hole is completely buried after the water has been absorbed. The earth should be well compacted again so that no air remains between the roots.

After planting, you need to make sure that there is moderate, but constant watering, so the earth does not dry out, but it also does not become waterlogged.

Wet way of transplanting roses

This method is very simple and convenient. Water is poured into the pit (a bucket, but more is possible), and while it has not yet been absorbed, a humate or a heteroauxin tablet is added. And immediately, the roots of a rose bush are placed in the water, along with an earthen lump. More water is topped up. Now you need to wait until the water is absorbed, gradually dissolving the earth and deepening the roots of the plant with you. Then the hole is dug in and compacted well. It would be nice to use mulch so that the earth does not dry out.

When is the best time to replant roses

There are advantages in both autumn and winter replanting. Therefore, when it is possible to transplant roses, everyone can decide, depending on the conditions and possibilities.

For example, if you do this work in the spring, when there are no threats of frost, then you can not worry about the shelter. True, now the bushes run the risk of being in the scorching sun, and suffer from drying out of the soil, if it is not possible to water them in time. But they quickly grow under favorable conditions, easily take root and develop. And so that the sun does not burn the rose, it is recommended to cover it for a while with spruce branches. Planting is especially relevant in spring in cold climates.

But, in general, gardeners prefer to transplant roses in the fall. This helps the plant to take root and harden.

The main advantage of planting bushes in the fall, and this is from mid-September to the 20th of October, is that roses are less susceptible to disease during acclimatization.

Since the air temperature is still high enough, rose bushes have time to take root before the onset of frost. When the cold begins only to approach, and at night the temperature can drop sharply, this delicate plant worth sheltering.

Video: how to transplant roses correctly

Transplanting roses to another place in the fall can be either a forced event or a planned one. The plant is moved due to previously unsuccessfully selected conditions, in which the culture cannot develop correctly, rarely and sparsely blooms. A planned transplant in the fall is carried out when the site is redeveloped, for example, during the construction of a utility room, a gazebo or a barbecue area. Old overgrown bushes, which have depleted the soil over many years, also require a new place.

Is it possible to transplant roses in the fall

Early warm autumn is the best time to transplant a rose. This period is especially favorable for the southern regions. The soil remains warm for a long time in the fall, which allows the bush to build up a powerful root system before the arrival of frost.

When is it better to transplant roses: in autumn or spring

For regions with harsh climatic conditions, where rainy and windy weather is not uncommon, as well as for areas with heavy soils, experts recommend postponing the transplant of roses until spring.

You can carry out this procedure in the summer, if there is no other way out. For less stress caused by transplanting, choose cloudy, cool weather. Tall bushes are cut to 40-50 cm, old branches are removed completely. With a summer transplant, unripe shoots are pruned from young roses.

Advantages autumn planting roses:

• more active growth of the seedling in the spring;
• high soil moisture stimulates root formation;
• in autumn the soil temperature is more stable;
• choice planting material richer and better.

Disadvantages:

• early planting leads to the fact that the bush grows;
• late time for transplanting a rose in the fall threatens with freezing;
• poor-quality shelter for the winter can provoke the development of fungal diseases.

When to replant roses in autumn

The timing of transplanting roses in the fall varies depending on the climatic zone:

1. For the South of Russia, the peak of work falls on November, 2 weeks before the first serious frost.
2. V Middle lane and Moscow region roses are transplanted in October.
3. In the Urals and Siberia, a transplant in the fall is not recommended, however, if absolutely necessary, it is carried out in August-September. If you plant the bushes later, there is a high probability of plant death at the first freezing temperatures.

How to transplant roses to another place in the fall

A transplant is an unpleasant procedure for any plant, and roses are no exception. Adaptation takes a lot of effort, so this procedure must be approached responsibly.

Landing site selection

The rose loves sunlight, a well-lit place for planting is chosen. It is desirable that it be open from the east side, so the morning dew evaporates faster, which prevents the appearance of many fungal diseases. In a shady place, the rose will not be able to bloom profusely; with a lack of light, there is a possibility of disease progression, which will lead to the death of the plant.

An important factor is soil moisture. Roses do not tolerate locking of the root system, close occurrence of groundwater and stagnant moisture during spring melting of snow. The transplant site should be on a hill, but without drafts. It would be ideal to place the bushes near the south side of the house, where there are no strong gusts of wind.

Land preparation

The soil for a rose bush should be loose, fertile, with neutral or slightly acidic pH values, best of all, slightly acidic loams, rich in humus.

Ideal parameters for successful cultivation roses:

1. Soil acidity - 5.5-6.5 pH.
2. The depth of the groundwater is from 1.5 m.
3. The thickness of the nutrient layer is at least 70 cm.

If the acidity is below 5.5 pH, the soil must be lime before replanting. If you don't have a soil meter or litmus test at hand, you should pay attention to the weeds that prevail in the area. Lime consumption at different degrees of acidity will differ:

The site chosen for transplanting must "rest" from other crops for at least a year. If this condition cannot be met, a special soil mixture is prepared. It is not recommended to plant roses in the place of irgi, cherry, quince, Potentilla and other rosaceae.

2-3 weeks before transplanting, a hole is dug, slightly larger in size than an earthen lump with a root system. Usually the size of the hole is 50 * 50 cm, for large bushes it is necessary to dig a depression 70-100 cm deep. A drainage layer is placed on the bottom:

• gravel;
• sand;
• broken brick.

The pit is filled with nutrient soil:

• garden land (2 parts);
• sand (2 parts);
• rotted manure or compost (3 parts);
• peat (1 part);
• wood ash (0.5-1 kg per 1m²);
• superphosphate (100 g per 1m²).

A simpler version of the soil mixture:

• sod land (10 l);
• peat (10 l);
• bone meal (3 handfuls).

After 15-20 days, the soil will settle down a little, then it will be possible to start transplanting.

Preparing roses

Having started a transplant in the fall, you need to prepare not only the place and soil, but also the plants themselves. The old branches must be removed, the rest must be trimmed, keeping the columns 10 cm high.

Many do not prune the bush before transplanting, leaving all the shoots and green mass. This makes sense, since the rose, when adapting, will take strength from the ground part. Pruning warm, fine autumn is fraught with the awakening of dormant buds. The plant will spend energy on the development of new shoots, which do not have time to woody and dry out in winter, while the root system will be depleted.

The rose is removed from the soil with a large clod of earth, commensurate with the crown. So that the soil does not crumble, it is preliminarily watered abundantly with water. For convenience, the branches are neatly tied with twine. First, they dig a groove around the bush, gradually digging in the base. Very long roots are chopped off with the tip of a shovel, sprinkled with crushed coal, when the earthen lump is removed onto the prepared substrate using the lever method.

Important! When digging up, you need to know what kind of rose grows on the site: grafted or self-rooted, since they differ in the location of the root system.

In grafted plants, the rhizome is buried, and in self-rooted plants, it is located at the surface. If the rose has a long journey to another site, or the transplant does not occur immediately, the earthen lump must be covered with a moistened burlap so that the roots do not dry out.

Transplant rules

In order for a rose transplant in the fall to go smoothly and as painlessly as possible, you must follow a few simple rules:

1. 2-3 weeks before the planned planting date, roses are no longer fertilized.
2. The seedling should be located in the hole so that the grafting site (root collar) is 5 cm below ground level.
3. Own-rooted crops are set at the same level as in the old place.
4. After installing the seedling, the nutrient soil is poured around it to half, after which it is poured abundantly with warm settled water, allowing it to be completely absorbed.
5. The soil is lightly tamped to prevent the appearance of air pockets in which the roots will inevitably die.
6. Then the soil is poured to ground level, watered again.

Depending on the state of the rhizome, there are 2 transplantation methods:

• with a closed root system;
• with bare roots.

Each of them has its own nuances, which cannot be neglected.

With a clod of earth

Transplanting closed-rooted roses is less stressful. To do this, it is enough to carefully and at the required depth place an earthen lump, fill up the voids, and spill it with water.

There is an opinion that seedlings in peat pots can be planted directly in a container so as not to disturb the root system, however, with this method, the roots will not be able to adapt for a long time, they will be deformed and climb up.

Without soil

Algorithm for transplanting roses with a bare root system:

1. Seedlings should be inspected for rot or pests, and old dry roots removed.
2. The plant is soaked for 24 hours in a solution of drugs that stimulate root formation ("Kornevin", "Epin-extra", "Zircon").
3. The underground part of the seedling is dipped in a chatterbox, diluted to the consistency of sour cream. To do this, mix clay with mullein in a 2: 1 ratio.
4. A soil mixture is poured into the hole with a slide, a seedling is placed, the roots are straightened so that they are directed downward.
5. Deepening the root neck of the rose by 3-5 cm, gradually pour in the soil, tamping it.
6. The bush is watered and spud with a layer of soil 20-25 cm.

Video about transplanting roses in the fall to another place:

Care after the autumn transplant

In the first 3-4 weeks after transplanting a rose, it should be watered regularly, but not too abundantly. If the autumn turned out to be cloudless, during the day it is necessary to shade the branches from direct sunlight. Experts do not recommend disturbing roses for 3-5 years, making it possible to adapt to new conditions.

A warning! In the fall, after transplanting, no fertilizers are applied under the rose, especially organic fertilizers.

Top dressing containing a large amount of nitrogen will push the rose to build up the ground part, and not to actively rooting.

In autumn, for successful wintering, the bushes must be earthed, covered with spruce branches, spruce sawdust or special material.

Conclusion

Transplanting roses to another place in the fall is a rather laborious task. But if you observe all the nuances, the next season the rose bushes will delight you with abundant flowering.