How to choose quality seedlings. How to choose and buy good seedlings of ornamental plants for the garden

Selection and purchase of seedlings fruit trees

The choice and planting of fruit trees is the most crucial moment when creating a garden, which will be the main decoration of the site. It depends on whether the seedling is chosen correctly whether it will take root in a new place or not, as well as the future harvest.

Choosing a seedling before buying

Choosing fruit trees is easy. To do this, you need to inspect them, and pay attention to the details that are signs of a healthy and well-grafted seedling.

• Young grafted seedlings adapt best to new conditions. It is desirable that the vaccination was carried out 1.5-2 years before planting on permanent place.
• Inspect the root collar of the selected tree. The trail from the cut rootstock should be clearly visible, which must be healed. If it does not overgrow, then perhaps the tree is infected with a tinder fungus, which cannot be cured.

• A well-formed smooth stem without fungi and mechanical damage indicates that the seedling is healthy. In a two-year-old tree, the bole has one branching order, the slope should be at least 45 degrees. Then the crown of the future tree will develop correctly and look beautiful.
• For annual seedlings, the length of the aboveground part should be 1 meter, for two-year-olds - 1.5 meters. A healthy tree has a whole bark without damage.

What should be the roots of a seedling

The root system deserves no less attention. Small roots must be present, it is better that they are lush and thick (up to 20 cm - in one-year-olds and up to 30 cm - in two-year-olds).

If they are absent, and there is only the main root, most likely, the tree will not take root. It will be very weak and unable to resist disease.

Buying fruit trees: where to buy, who to trust

It is better to buy seedlings in special nurseries or from trusted sellers. Often on a spontaneous market or roadside, sellers lay out the goods without protecting the roots from drying out.

• For young seedlings, it is enough to wrap the roots with damp rags, but it is better to keep them in a container filled with clay talker (a liquid solution of clay in water 1:10, to protect the root system from external damage, drying and exposure to air). If the storage conditions are not followed, the seedlings die. As evidenced by dry or chapped, with a white bloom, roots.
• Mature trees (4-5 years old) should be sold with a clod of earth the size of the seedling itself. It is optimal to buy zoned varieties of seedlings grown in such climatic conditions in which they will grow on your site.

Outcome

For planting, both young, one, two-year-old trees, and three to five are suitable. But adults take root worse, due to damage when digging up roots.

Before buying seedlings of fruit trees, it is important to learn how to determine their quality independently, according to the described signs. Having decided on the variety and age of the tree, you can safely start breeding a beautiful garden.

A good garden will delight its owner for many years.

But to get such a treasure, you need to work hard first.

At any stage you can make a mistake, which will nullify all efforts.

The “wrong” seedling may simply not take root. Taking a seedling from an apple tree yourself without a clear understanding of how to choose an apple tree seedling is too risky.

In this article we will tell you how to avoid these mistakes and successfully grow an apple tree that will delight for many years.

This first step should not be underestimated. It depends on the choice of a seedling in many ways whether you will be able to grow a healthy tree.

Take the question seriously:

• Find out which apple varieties are suitable for your region... This is very important, because a young tree that is not adapted to such a climate can die long before it begins to bear fruit.
• It is best to contact your local gardening organization or nursery with this question. You can find their addresses on the Internet.
• Pay attention to customer reviews. Choose your company responsibly.
• The most difficult stage of the choice is practical. It all depends on knowledge and care.

Selection of seedlings in the nursery.

First of all, everyone seedlings can be divided into three groups depending on the level of the rootstock, i.e. the stem and root system. When choosing one or another type, you need to take into account the features of the site.

There are such types:

IMPORTANT! If your seedlings have thorns, don't buy it. Most likely, they give out a wild game for a varietal apple tree.

Contact of the root system with groundwater is highly undesirable. Such an apple tree will be weak and painful, its harvest will be extremely poor. When buying a seedling, do not forget about the importance of this factor.

The ideal age for a seedling is 1–2 years. The youthfulness of a tree is a guarantee that it will take root better in a new place.

How determine visually the age of the seedling? Annual plant should not have developed branches, in a two-year-old one can count 2-3 additional branches.

Inspect root system... It must not be damaged. Healthy roots slightly damp, but by no means rotten; they should be elastic and not brittle.

The condition of the cortex is also of great importance. Gently pick off the bark with your fingernail - the stem should be green.

It's better do not buy trees that have leaves... They will most likely not take root anymore.

How much do apple tree seedlings cost?

Seedlings with an open root system are cheaper than those sold in a container. The cost of an apple tree seedling depends on the variety and quality of the tree, as well as specifically on the selling company. On average, be guided by a price of about 300 rubles, although some nurseries may ask for 800 rubles.

Watch the tutorial video on how to choose the right apple seedling:

How are apple seedlings grown?

Brave gardeners can try grow a seedling yourself... It is not so difficult, especially in stock there is at least basic knowledge of the school course in biology. Let's consider the main methods.

Growing apple seedlings from seeds

Method one -. Even small children think about whether an apple tree will grow from an accidentally dropped seed.

The reality is not that simple. There were times when a beautiful tree grew from a seed with delicious fruitsbut there is a possibility that the grown apple tree will not lose the "maternal" properties of the wild and all your efforts will be in vain.

But if the difficulties and possible risks do not scare you, follow our advice:

1. Rinse mature brown seeds in running waterto remove the substance that prevents it from germinating. The best thing place the seeds in water for 3 days.
2. Then place the seeds in the refrigerator (this process is called stratification). To do this, you need to prepare dishes filled with slightly damp sand. The seeds should last for about two months in the refrigerator. It is best to start stratification in early January..
3. In the refrigerator, the seeds should germinate. They need to be planted in specially prepared boxes (at the bottom of which drainage should be poured, on top - a nutrient mixture). Place the boxes on a well-lit window sill.
4. Easy to recognize the wild even in the early stages: its leaves are bright green, and there are already short spines on the shoots. It's better not to waste your time on them. Or use the wild as a rootstock, to which the desired variety has already been grafted.

From the cutting

Apple trees also propagate by cuttings.

How to make a seedling from an apple tree branch has long been known. In order to grow a tree in this way, you need prepare the stock - choose a tree grown from seeds or (which is much better) a wild game.

Preparing the cuttings for the stock.

You need to graft the stalk of the tree you need to the roots of such a tree. It is very important to correctly combine the stock and the cutting.

For a wild bonsai better fit a stalk of a columnar apple tree, and an apple tree grown from a seed will well accept a stalk of an ordinary tall tree.

The shank must be not older than one year... We will describe in detail how to make a seedling from an apple tree below.

How to grow apple seedlings from a branch

Another way is dig a branch into the ground.

In the fall, the tree is planted with a slope so that the young shoots touch the ground. In the spring, the twigs are attached to the bud with staples. During the summer, they need to be hilled, and in the fall, ready-made seedlings are obtained.

Air layering or how to get seedlings from an old apple tree

Provide ground for a new root system to form.

It is more difficult to plant a seedling from a branch, so it is often more advisable to use the method of air layering.

So that the twig starts to take root, you need to surround it with moist soil. To begin with, choose a branch that will become a seedling - healthy, without branches, as thick as a regular pencil.

When the snow melts, this branch needs put on a polyethylene sleeve... Attach it, preferably with electrical tape. It will remain on the apple tree until steadily warm weather sets in. Then the sleeve is removed.

Need to find the border between the adult branch and the new growth - from this point, about 10 cm recede and an annular cut of about 1 cm is made, small cuts are also made to the left and right of it. All buds above the incisions must be removed.

Then a sleeve with a container is put on the branch. In the first three days in a container (you can use cut plastic bottle) put root growth stimulating liquid, then specially prepared soil, which must be constantly wet.

You can try any of these methods yourself at home. It is advisable to additionally consult with competent specialists.

See detailed video on how to get a seedling from an apple tree using the air layer method:

You can take a seedling from an apple tree yourself. You don't have to be an experienced gardener to do this.

If you want to get varietal apple tree, then you can use the parental shoot, which is sometimes enough just to dig in correctly.

The procedure is carried out in the spring... You can use young shoots no more than 1 year old.

They are placed in a hole about 10 cm deep. The twig is fixed to the peg. Thus, a shoot of 30-40 cm should remain above the ground... It is also necessary to rid the nearest site of weeds.

To be sure, root a few branches this way. In a year, some of them will take root. In the fall, the seedlings will be ready for transplanting.

IMPORTANT! Remember that large-fruited apple trees take less root in this way than other varieties.

Apple tree sapling pruning

Do not forget that this is a rather complicated process that must be carried out strictly according to agrotechnical instructions.

You need to prune the seedling when it is at rest.

In warm climates, the ideal time will be autumn-winter, in temperate - the end of winter. Anyway, trimming should not be carried out at temperatures below -10 ° C.

The first pruning takes place in the first year after planting. Cropping in such early age will provide the bookmark for future skeletal branches.

One-year seedling need to delete side shootslocated up to 70 cm from the ground level. Above this point, only those branches are removed that form with the trunk sharp corner... If the angle that the branch forms with the trunk is close to 90 °, the branch is cut to the fifth bud.

Biennial seedling looks almost like mature tree... How to prune such apple tree seedlings? In this case, the following goal is pursued - to leave from 3 to 5 strongest shoots, forming a wide angle with the trunk.

In the future, they will become the main branches of the tree. It is necessary to form and center conductor... It is best to do this from the most developed kidney, which is about 3 kidneys higher than the others. The lower branches should be longer than the upper ones. So wood.

Next 3-5 years it is better not to touch the apple tree, let it develop on its own.

How to distinguish a pear sapling from an apple tree?

To distinguish different types trees at such a young age is sometimes difficult even for experienced gardeners.

Before the leaves appear, this is almost impossible. - the seller in the market could experiment with vaccinations. Recall general ruleswhich will allow you not to become a victim of deception and determine how to choose an apple tree:

1. In annual apple trees, the color of the shoots is dark red-brown, while in pears it is yellowish-green.
2. On the shoots of apple trees there is a slight pubescence, pears usually do not have such a feature.
3. Shoots of pears have more pronounced cranking.
4. The buds of apple trees are wide and large. They fit snugly to the shoot. Pear buds are pointed and small, do not adhere tightly to the shoot.
5. The buds of apple trees swell and blossom later than that of a pear.
6. The root system in apple trees is more branched, and in pears, the stem.

When buying a seedling, you don't need to know about the peculiarities of the leaves of pears and apple trees. If the seedling already has leaves, you should not buy it. It is unlikely to take root successfully, and your efforts will be in vain.

How to grow an apple tree from a seedling?

Any gardener first you need to choose the time of planting the apple tree.

It can be spring or autumn, depending on the specific circumstances and climatic conditions of your region.

In any case, tree care begins in the spring.

Prepare the soil before planting... This means that the soil must be well loosened, rid of weeds, fertilized (depending on the season) and dug up again.

The planting hole will be a house for the seedling, it will reliably feed it.

Choose your location responsibly. This should be a well-lit area, preferably sheltered from the wind.

IMPORTANT! The preparation of the planting pit should be started 2 months before direct planting.

The seedling is still too vulnerable. Our task is to protect it from the negative factor of weather conditions. The tree needs to be fixed to a peg. It will be possible to remove it 2 years after planting. This must be done with extreme caution so as not to hurt the root system.

In the first week after planting, regular watering is very important, which will help not only saturate the tree nutrientsbut also to compact the soil. Gradually watering intervals it is necessary to reduce, but in hot weather it is impossible to spare water for a young tree.

The near-barrel section is required mulch... To do this, use compost, chicken droppings, vermicompost and rotted droppings, on top of this layer you need to put a small layer of straw.

Watch the video on how to mulch trees:

Required you need to prune one-year and two-year-old apple treesto form its skeletal branches.

In summer, all care consists in regular watering and protecting the tree from pests. To avoid using chemicals, try attract birds to the garden.

It's easy to do - arrange feeders on the tree branches. This way the birds will know that a tasty treat awaits them in your garden.

If pests appear, you can collect them by hand from a young tree. In hot weather, do not water the tree during the day to avoid burns.

So that air flows to the root system, make punctures 30 cm deep at a distance of 60 cm from the trunk.

Preparing apple tree seedlings for winter.

• A young apple tree needs to be spud to a height of 10–20 cm;
• The area near the trunk must be mulched with humus or peat;
• You can add nitrogen or potash fertilizers... The lack of these substances will affect the quality of future fruits, therefore it is best to use complex fertilizers;
• The apple tree trunk must be whitewashed with a chalk solution;
• To avoid breaking the weak young tree, it can be preliminary.

Apple tree seedling dries up, how to save?

Before solving a problem, you need to understand it. reason, causing the apple tree to dry out. Then you can understand how to save a dried apple tree seedling.

Growing too much can hinder the development of the seedling. close trees or shrubs... In this case, you can transplant the tree to the required distance.

The problem can be caused by lying too close groundwater ... Excess water simply displaces excess air from the soil, which is so necessary for a young root system. You can also solve the problem by replanting or regularly loosening the soil.

If groundwater interferes with more than one apple tree, you can dig out drainage ditches to help get rid of excess water.

IMPORTANT! The key to successful apple tree growth is air access to the root system, so loosen the soil regularly. Do not plant an apple tree in a sandy or clay bud.

Gardening is not only difficult, but also very interesting. To grow a good apple tree from a seedling, you need to show both intelligence and care.

• Remember, the most crucial stage is the choice of a seedling.
• It is better to buy them from professional breeders. On the spontaneous market, you can unknowingly purchase another tree (an apple tree can be easily confused with a pear before the leaves appear).
• Do not overuse fertilizers in the first year... The tree has enough watering and mulching.
• Do not forget to rid the young apple tree of weeds. In the autumn, you can add.
• A very important procedure is tree pruning. Remember to do this to form the skeleton of the apple tree.
• Pests can negatively affect the development of an apple tree... However, try not to poison them in the early years. chemicals... Involve to this business of birds.

Recruit birds for natural pest control.

• Treat your landing site responsibly... Groundwater lying too close and trees and shrubs growing nearby can kill the apple tree.
• Provide adequate air access to the root system. She really needs it.

A responsible approach to business will ensure your success.

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We all know well that the yield of fruit trees and shrubs depends on agricultural technology, the choice of a variety, on whether mild winter and "good" is summer. There is another important component to this formula: the quality of the seedling. Based on the experience of FORUMHOUSE users, we will tell you about how to choose high-quality seedlings, where you can safely buy them, where - in no case, what to pay attention to in the first place when buying.

Age

The survival rate of a seedling depends on its age. The "younger" the seedling, the faster it can adapt to the conditions of your site. Therefore, "year olds" take root better than three-year-olds.

Mountelf FORUMHOUSE user

The older the seedling, the slower it takes root (after all, the roots were chopped down harder during digging). What's the use of planting a hefty tree if it sits and doesn't grow for a couple of years? And the yearling immediately takes root and begins to grow actively.

In an apple tree, for example, three-year-old seedlings already have impressive roots, which have to be thoroughly chopped up when digging up for sale - after such an execution, the tree, of course, takes root worse.

Therefore, planting an older seedling in the hope of getting a harvest as soon as possible is a pointless exercise. The one-year-old sapling is indeed preferable. Novice gardeners are often confused about the growth of seedlings: which one is considered one year old, which one is two years old, etc. Here is what the consultant of the section “ Fruit garden»FORUMHOUSE Andrey Vasiliev:one-year-old (or, as some gardeners gently say, "one-year-old") is a seedling, the aerial part of which has already grown a full season. Thus, a seedling in the fall of 2015 and in the spring of 2016 is the same one-year-old, but in the spring you get it from the hole where it was stored, and in the fall from the field where it grew.

It is better to choose seedlings one to two years old.

Sadovnik62 FORUMHOUSE user

Most best seedling for planting a 1-year-old or two-year-old transplanted at the same time as digging.

For it is important that the shoots ripen well - this is necessary for a successful overwintering. The ripe shoot should be lignified along its entire length, and the buds on it should be fully formed.

The size

The height of an annual seedling of fruit trees (apple, pear) is usually 80-100 centimeters. A two-year-old sapling reaches one and a half meters in height. The buds on the tops of the seedlings should be large, well-formed. If they are damaged, it could be a sign of disease or pests - look for another seedling.

Roots

Examine the seedling carefully. Try not to buy seedlings from people who have put up the seedlings for sale, without protecting the roots from drying out: the roots must be "alive", fresh, moist. The less the roots have suffered during digging, the faster the seedling will take root, the less it will hurt. The root system should be damaged as little as possible.

Here one cannot fail to mention seedlings with a closed root system: their root system is practically not damaged, this method of transplanting for plants is painless. For plum saplings, for example, the roots of which may suffer even during transportation to the dacha, this is generally the ideal method.

IrBiS1300 User FORUMHOUSE

I liked the seedlings grown in plastic bags (one of our nurseries sells such seedlings). When planting such a seedling, you simply carefully cut the polyethylene and plant the plant with an intact lump of earth. It continues to grow as if nothing had happened.

But here it is important to deal with a bona fide seller with a good reputation. It often happens that the seedling is not grown in a container, but placed there before planting.

Mountelf FORUMHOUSE user

Have you seen a real ZKS of large fruit? To grow a tree directly in a pot? Usually everything is the same: cut from the soil in the spring and shoved into a pot in peat (like in the photo above).

And how disappointing it can be to get containers instead of real seedlings from the ZKS, into which are stuck seedlings with chopped off roots, especially when you paid a lot of money for this. You can, of course, hope for luck and conscience of suppliers, but there is another way: to buy a seedling with an open root system: in any case, there will be an opportunity to properly examine the roots!

Bark

The bark, like the roots, must be alive and fresh. If the bark of the seedling is dry and lifeless, it means that the seedling in the nursery was dug up long ago. You can poke at the bark slightly to assess its condition.

Andrey Vasiliev Consultant of the Section "Fruit Garden"

Apple and pear are very hardy plants. It is difficult to freeze them with a wrong fit. If the seedling is not overdried - and this is the most common reason unacceptability.

Fitness

This moment is important for gardeners in the northern and Siberian regions. How to distinguish a locally bred seedling from a southern one, which will most likely freeze out in the very first winter? there is whole line Signs: Look closely at the seedling and you can never go wrong.

1. Saplings of Siberian selection have a branched root system. That is, depending on the variety, the seedling should have two, three, or even more branching roots. The southern seedlings have a carrot root.
2. Saplings of Siberian selection are dark, southern ones are light, brownish-red.
3. Seedlings of Siberian selection can be recognized by their numerous shoots, while the stem-shaped southern seedlings resemble a vine.

Sellers

About 90% of amateur gardeners buy seedlings from "roadside hucksters", and this is sad. Even if a bad variety is not slipped to you, the scent will still take root badly and hurt for a long time, even because of the conditions in which the seedlings are during this roadside trade.

Choosing the right seedling and planting it correctly is a guarantee of good survival of the tree and stable high yields further.

Boarding time
IN different regions our country has preferred times and dates for disembarkation. IN middle lane, Siberia and more northern regions, it is better to plant fruit trees in spring. In the southern regions - in autumn.


Nursery
If possible, purchase seedlings from plant nurseries. Here are some of the benefits of buying from nurseries. 1. The variety will be exactly what you wanted, which cannot be guaranteed when purchasing planting material on the market.
2. The possibility of buying a tree grown in a different zone under the guise of a local seedling is excluded. For example, in the suburbs, planting varieties of fruit trees that grow well and bear fruit abundantly in Sochi is a waste of time. Seedlings from the southern regions look stronger and taller, and unscrupulous sellers take advantage of this, passing them off as local varieties and not at all sparing the trees that are unlikely to survive the first winter.
3. Closed root system. Seedlings grown in containers or plastic bags are not even transplanted, but "waddle", their roots are practically not injured. Naturally, survival is faster and easier, the plants start growing quickly.
4. Fast harvesting. You can even buy 5-6 year old seedlings in a package with soil.
5. The ability to purchase a seedling, both with open and closed root systems - at your choice.
6. No restrictions on planting time - if necessary, can be planted during the growing season.
7. Specialists in the nursery will cut the seedling themselves for planting.

Market
In the market, it is better to take seedlings from friends or those who have been selling for a long time planting material sellers. The likelihood of deception on their part is minimal - who would risk their good name? Pay attention to what measures have been taken to keep the root system from drying out. Ideally, the roots should be dipped in a clay mash, placed in a plastic bag, and tied. Or completely in the water.

Sapling age
The optimal age of a fruit tree seedling is 1-2 years, 3-4 years old with an open root system take root more difficult.

Good root system
First of all, pay attention to the root system of the tree. The number and length of roots depends on many factors - age, variety, species, rootstock method. But general rule for all one thing - one must be healthy, have not only skeletal, but also numerous overgrown roots. They should not have: knots, thickenings, outgrowths, sagging, nodules and similar formations. The minimum skeletal roots for a two-year-old is 3, more is better. The roots should not have gross mechanical damage, which is the case with careless digging. When cut, the roots should be light and moist.

Crown
Damage to the bark on the trunk is an unambiguous sign of rejection. Constrictions, abrasions of the bark from garters to pegs, scratches, cracks also fall into this category. Hemp in the place where the rootstock is cut, a badly or not completely overgrown inoculation site also signals that it is better to refuse such a specimen. The height of one-year-olds should be at least 1 m, for two-year-olds - at least 1.5 m. Healthy two-year-olds have at least three lateral branches evenly distributed around the stem, ideally, they should grow at an angle of 45 ° to the stem. The bark of the seedling should be smooth and fresh. Special attention give the tips of the branches - they are the first to signal that the seedling has long been experiencing a lack of moisture and has already begun to dry out. There is one more the right way quite accurately determine whether the branches are alive or have already dried up. Squeeze lightly, slightly touching, the twig between the large and forefinger... If the seedling is fresh, you will feel the coolness from touching the branch. If it is dry, you will feel warm. The method is old-fashioned, but works correctly.

Landing
All types of fruit trees grow well and bear fruit on nutritious, well and deeply loosened soil. From here we determine the depth and width of the hole for the seedling. For annuals, we dig 50-60 cm in width and the same amount in depth. For two year olds - 10-120 cm wide and 60-70 deep. If the soil is heavy, dense, add 15-20 cm to each value. Mix the removed soil with well-rotted compost, you can add a little sand. At the bottom of the pit we bring in the amount of complex necessary for the age and type of seedling mineral fertilizers, and sprinkle it with a layer of earth 2-3 cm. If we plant a tree with an open root system, then put a mound on the bottom of the pit, on which we install a seedling, straighten the roots and fill it up. Around the tree we make a hole, along the edge of which we pour mounds, lightly compact the earth in the hole and water it abundantly. After the water has been absorbed, we mulch the surface with sand, dry soil, peat, sawdust.

Do not deepen the root collar!
Do not under any circumstances deepen the root collar of the seedling. Even a layer of mulch should not cover it.