Getting rid of lilac root shoots: how to permanently solve the problem. How to deal with lilac root shoots in a garden and get rid of them forever How to get rid of lilacs in a garden

Lilac. How to fight? Help Wanted!

Good time of day to all!
Yesterday my husband and I tried to fight lilacs in the garden. It was necessary to remove 3 large lilac bushes from the summer cottage with minimal losses for the garden and for our forces.
Our bushes are sooooo old, already dried up in the middle, and along the edge of the bush there is a lot of young growth and this growth stretches almost 3 meters from the bushes.
Yesterday we tried to lime one of the bushes. First, they dug in the young growth around the edges, then they broke the branches from the middle, and then they made a fire in the place of the former bush and burned them out. The effect is certainly not very good, but at least for a couple of weeks it will stop our lilacs from actively reproducing. There are a few young slices left to use new methods.
The question is: How to lime the roots? And how to remove lilac bushes from under the apple tree. One sits right close, while we are afraid to touch him.
Uprooting with hands and feet - I'm afraid my husband will not be enough for this. He tried all the time for one bush for 4 hours to lime it out, but with the roots we did not solve the issue.
I read about herbicides in the internet, such as ROUNDAP, TORNADO, HURRICANE, etc. But it's scary for the apple tree.
Who will advise what.

These are the bushes along the fence. part of the cherry weed was removed, and lilacs remained for dessert.

The fruits of husbands' labors.

Cut everything down first, or even easier to mow small branches with a trimmer. Good trimmers take branches up to 3 cm, that is, in about five minutes, the husband will mow everything that is needed and unnecessary Only instead of fishing line, you need to put knives. And then let him take an ax, which is not a pity, and chop all the branches right in the ground. The apple tree will not suffer. If new ones come out over the summer, let him cut it again. You can then dig this place several times with a cultivator, not deeply deepening. Then dig it with a shovel. I so worn out the bird cherry bush, and the bush was not like yours. Five meters high.

Carlo's daughter writes:

Good trimmers take branches up to 3 cm, so I need to have it dead, only the grass and only dry cuts. but I still can't afford a more powerful one, I also dream

Ask your neighbors. Someone in the village sets hayfields like this. Or ask, maybe your dead one has knives too.

there are no knives for my dead one)))) his motor will not stand up, I thought to myself what to think of and ask. Do not need! pay and everyone will mow at you

Well then, take the ax in hand and cut everything right in the ground.

nooo! I'm fine with lilacs!))))) I'm not going to cut it down, on the contrary, I want to plant on the back boundary of the plot instead of a fence, it's the author of the post that the lilac has grown)))))

Can you find something useful for yourself here?
http://www.asienda.ru/post/1428/
Cutting, as I understand it, is not difficult? But remove the roots.

i read this post, thanks. The trouble is that there is no trunk as such. only branches and roots. (((((Therefore, it was not possible to use this post. (((

Here, for example, the first way, where you need to add saltpeter, can help. If you cut everything down, make holes in several stumps and fill them with saltpeter.
Or method number 4, where to sprinkle with salt

I also sprayed the bushes and even plum the wild tornado, and all the roots were worn out without any problems.

For many years I have not been able to grow lilacs, it dies in my swamp, and you do not know how to get rid of it. Probably in the north we are only happy with every blooming stick

i would also be happy to bloom. BUT our old stuff is not that bloom. it simply cannot grow. a rotten stump sits, and a trifle climbs around. husband said IZVESTI. and point. I wanted to dig her. youngster on the fence. and he is categorically against it.)))

Although the lilac looks very nice and smells good.

So you can clean it here. They began to remove the lilacs, the old fence began to fall over. it turns out he was holding on to the bushes. Now you need to wait for the repair of the fence.)))

This is how I started the repair, I wanted to change the wallpaper, I began to tear off the old ones, but the ceiling fell on me), or rather the wallpaper from the ceiling, it turns out to be holding onto the wallpaper on the wall, I also had to make the ceiling.

Plant encyclopedia

The stinky basil belongs to a family called buttercups, in Latin the name of this plant is: Thalictrum foetidum L. Description of the stinking basil The stinky basil is a perennial herb that will fluctuate in height between fifteen and sixty-five centimeters.

http://www.asienda.ru

With the arrival of warm spring days and the appearance of the first flowers in the garden, a magnificent lilac bush blooms. A riot of magnificent colors and fragrant flowers of the bush leaves no one indifferent. Almost every gardener has acquired this lush and fragrant shrub in his country house.

But there is one big drawback in the appearance of lilacs in the garden. It refers to those types of shrubs and trees that, for whatever reason, sprout. This growth begins to interfere not only with the mother bush, but also with the surrounding plants.

Many gardeners are struggling in search of an answer to the question: how to get rid of lilacs on the site?

Why does growth arise

There are a number of reasons why a lilac bush gives rise to growth and in order to get rid of new branches of growth, you should understand what the problem is.

Unsuccessful bush landing site

The bush gives out shoots if it is not comfortable or sick. Thus, he tries to rejuvenate himself in the event of the death of the mother bush.

Insufficient deepening of the root system

Incorrect planting of the seedling initially, that is, the roots are planted at insufficient depth. Lilac roots, being on top, suffer from drying out of the soil surface, and if this is the only problem, the root should be deepened. To do this, increase the layer of earth around the bush itself.

Different types of bush damage

Even minor damage to the integrity of the bark of a lilac bush can lead to the germination of new shoots. If the wood is damaged, the supply of nutrients is skewed in the trunk, and the roots begin to rejuvenate the mother bush. Before removing the lilac from the site, or rather the growth, you should carefully examine the branches. Do not remove too much undergrowth.

If a shrub suffers from a disease, approximately 2-3 years after its onset, cracks and delamination of wood can be observed in the shrub.

This phenomenon is a harbinger of the fact that the bush begins to gradually die off and start up young shoots in order to preserve its appearance.

Fighting the lilac bush

With the arrival of spring work at the summer cottage, every gardener begins to think about how to remove lilac shoots. The usual cutting of the overgrowth with pruning shears does not give a positive result. In the ground there are the remnants of the roots of the overgrowth, which with renewed vigor begin their growth, destroying everything in their path.

By adhering to certain tips, you can significantly reduce the young growth from the shrub. Do not use a shovel to loosen the soil, but use a rake.

In order to find out how to get rid of lilacs in a personal plot or from its overgrowth, you need to study in more detail two methods of struggle, and choose the most suitable method for yourself. There is mechanical and herbicidal control.

Mechanical

The most effective way to get rid of lilacs or its overgrowth is mechanical. But do not count on the ease of labor. This work must be done carefully and with great care.

As soon as the first branches of the lilac that have not yet matured become visible, they should be cut as close to the base as possible. Each growth should be excavated and cut off with a small spatula.

If the sprouts are very young, you can simply try to pull them out gently by the roots. The remaining stumps after cutting the lilac bush should be uprooted, otherwise new shoots will appear in large quantities.

With the help of the second option, there are great chances of removing the overgrowth forever and getting rid of germination in the future. With this method of mechanical struggle, the slate should be buried about 50 cm in the ground.

Herbicidal

Herbicide control is considered the most severe. Herbicides should be handled carefully. If you do not follow the instructions and caution, you can destroy the lilac bush itself or nearby growing plants.

It is up to each gardener to decide how to remove the lilac or its overgrowth from the site individually, taking into account all the pros and cons of this or that method.

Photo of lilacs

Lilac is a shrub prone to overgrowth when unfavorable factors appear. The root system of the plant is able to spread over considerable distances, releasing young shoots. Not all varieties of shrubs give growth, and an already captured area can be cleaned without much difficulty. There are different ways how to quickly and effectively get rid of lilacs, each gardener can choose the most convenient one.

It is easier to fight overgrowth, knowing the reason for it. Lilacs abundantly release new shoots when exposed to adverse factors.

Unsuccessful planting bush

Lilac actively releases shoots if the place of growth for it is uncomfortable, threatening with disease. So the plant tries to save itself if the mother bush dies.

Insufficient deepening of the root system

In a shrub that is not deep enough when planting, the surface roots suffer from a moisture deficit in the upper soil layer, they begin to actively release shoots. The solution to the problem is to deepen the roots. You just need to add earth to the area around the plant.

Different types of bush damage

A small injury to the trunk is enough for the bush to actively release shoots. Damage to the bark and wood disrupts the circulation of nutrients in the tissues. The root system, trying to save the aerial part, starts the process of plant rejuvenation by releasing numerous shoots.

What harm can it do?

The uncontrollably growing lilac is able to capture the entire site in several years. Lateral roots give several offspring every year, which can appear at a distance of several tens of centimeters from the trunk.

A 50-year-old bush covers an area with a diameter of more than 10 m.

Gradually, the shoots begin to give offspring, and the territory of capture expands even more. It is impossible to use the captured area either for beds or for garden plantings.

How to get rid of the lilac overgrowth on the site?

Some gardeners strive to completely remove lilacs on their site, others want to leave a beautifully flowering bush, they are not satisfied with only the growth. There are many ways to cleanse the site: chemicals and folk remedies are used, they are removed manually.

Use of chemistry

To quickly get rid of the offspring of lilacs, strong herbicides are used. Tornado, Roundup will do. However, when overgrowing, standard spraying with these chemicals is useless.

To surely get rid of the thickets, processing at the beginning of the growing season is carried out according to a special scheme:

The shoots are not sprayed, but coated with a brush so that the active substance penetrates the plant tissues faster and in greater concentration.
If the mother bush is large, and its growth is abundant, then you will have to process the shoots 2-3 times.
When the growth of young plants stops, it is advisable to cover the area around the bush with dark material, leave it until next season.

If you want to get rid of thickets faster, you can use arboricides - chemicals that act on woody and shrub vegetation.

Arboricides are potent substances. It is necessary to strictly observe dosages, use chemical protection means.

Manual removal

Many gardeners use a simple and old way to remove overgrowth - uproot the bush. Usually this method is used if chemical pickling is undesirable.

Algorithm of actions:

The trunks of the mother plant are cut off.
Each offspring is cut to the root.
Remove the top soil layer so that roots are accessible.
Large areas of the root system are uprooted with a shovel.
They are taken for lateral root layers, pulling them out of the ground all to one.

Folk remedies and recipes

If you do not want to mess with a shovel, you can use effective folk remedies:

Cover the overgrown area with salt (1 kg per 1 m 2). Drizzle with boiling water. Cover with roofing felt or other dark material. Leave it on for a year or two.
Cover the ground with fresh manure. The procedure is carried out at the end of the growing season, the soil surface is covered with dark material for a year. Due to the saturation of the soil with organic matter, the plant will go into active growth instead of preparing for winter dormancy. The offspring will lose a lot of strength and die.
Sodium nitrate acts similarly. It is also introduced in high concentration into the soil at the end of the growing season.

A set of preventive measures

Experienced gardeners share tips on how to avoid lilac growth on the site.

There are trees on almost any personal plot. Sooner or later the time comes when they stop yielding and must be disposed of. It is not at all difficult to cut a trunk, but not everyone knows how to quickly uproot a stump without effort and spend a lot of energy in an unsuccessful struggle.

There are various methods of how to uproot a stump without effort, and each of them has its own advantages, since it is selected individually, depending on the location of the stump itself on the site. Let's find out more about these methods.

Heavy machinery use

Experience shows that you can quickly uproot a stump without making any efforts only using mechanical assistants. It should be noted right away that this method is the most costly, because an hour of work of such equipment is very expensive.

But the goal will be justified if there is a huge stump of large diameter on the site, which is simply unrealistic to handle manually.

As a rule, the stump is pre-dug around the circumference in order to pass a steel cable under its roots. After it is securely fastened, the crawler tractor with a little effort pulls the stump out of the ground along with the thick branches of the roots. If you cut a tree high, then you can simply wrap a high stump without digging.

In addition to the tractor, a bulldozer or an excavator can be used, which with a bucket can pick up a stump in the root area and completely uproot it in just five minutes.

But, thus, it is possible to uproot the stumps on the site where there is an opportunity to turn around this large-sized technique, but in already cultivated areas, this is often impossible. Therefore, they use heavy artillery at the planning stage of the site, when there are still no fences and perennial plantings in the garden and vegetable garden.

Quite a different matter is a small milling cutter or stump grinder, which is no larger than a lawn mower. With the help of such manual equipment, the stump and adjacent roots are easily crushed into sawdust to a depth of 30 centimeters.

Manual method

Waving a sledgehammer and wielding a crowbar is a matter that not everyone can do. But you can cheat a little if you use a hand winch as an addition. It is installed near the stump, the height of which should be at least one meter, for better grip. The roots will need to be exposed in order to place a wooden wedge under them on the side opposite to the winch. Without making great efforts, a stump can be pulled out of its familiar place in a couple of hours of work and set to ennoble the vacated plot of land.

Chemical method for removing stumps

When chemistry began to be actively used in agriculture, people learned how best to uproot stumps without physically bothering themselves at all. Although, it should be noted that this one should not count on a quick result. But if there is a year or two in stock, then it is better to use this simple version of uprooting.

It is necessary to drill as many deep holes with a diameter of about 10 mm as possible in the stump. It is advisable to do this in the fall, so that during the winter chemical processes naturally have time to produce the necessary effect on the wood tissue. Pour urea into these holes.

Thus, until next autumn, the wood will be completely destroyed and only a heap of dust will remain in the place of the stump. Salt has a similar effect, which also destroys the stump, but it can be used only where development is planned, since excess salt in the soil leads to a sharp decrease in the fertility of the earth.

But ammonium nitrate, which is also poured into drilled holes, has a slightly different effect. It is absorbed by moisture into the wood tissue, making it more flammable. Having drunk the stump with such a solution, you can burn it very quickly, getting an excellent fertile area.

Those who do not know how to properly uproot a stump on their own can be advised to contact a specialized service that deals with cutting trees and uprooting stumps. These organizations have specialized equipment and a lot of experience, so they can easily rid the site of such a problem as an old tree stump.

How to get rid of white mold in the cellar?

White mold in the cellar can be removed in a variety of ways, but there is no way to identify the cause of its appearance, then it will form on the walls and ceiling all the time. Therefore, it is necessary to provide the room with high-quality waterproofing and ventilation.

Dampness in the cellar - how to get rid of?

You can get rid of dampness in the cellar in a variety of ways, but first you need to determine the reason for its appearance. It is often impossible to do without good waterproofing of walls and floors, which means that considerable work lies ahead. There are also folk methods of struggle.

Forced ventilation in the cellar

A cellar is necessary for any gardener, as it will save the harvest in the winter season. In order for it to function normally, it is necessary to take care of the ventilation system. In this case, it happens that you need to install forced ventilation, which is described in this article.

What temperature should the cellar be?

The presence of a cellar is an excellent opportunity for long-term storage of all kinds of products.

However, you need to be sure that the temperature and humidity in the cellar are within normal limits. Otherwise, the food will either freeze or, on the contrary, deteriorate from overheating.

Reproduction of lilac by rhizome shoots

Own-rooted varieties of common lilac from the age of four to five begin to grow. Not all varieties are capable of developing a lot of growth. There are those who give little or almost none. Especially a lot of overgrowth appears, starting from the age of five to ten, in bushes growing on deep, fertile, well-drained and warmed up soils. The shoots inherit all the characteristics of the variety, it can be successfully used for reproduction. In small gardens, it is grown up to two or three years without separating it from the mother plant, then at the end of summer - beginning of autumn it is transplanted to a permanent place.

The first time the lilac shoots are separated in early June, when it reaches 5-7 cm in height, when the shoots have not yet turned brown. Before separation, the soil in the mother plot is watered abundantly. The roots are very delicate, fade quickly, so you need to separate it in cloudy weather or in the morning and evening hours, as you plant.

When digging, the roots should be 3-5 cm long. Plants are placed in a picking box, the bottom of which is sprinkled with wet moss, peat or sand, and sprayed. Then they are planted in a cold greenhouse. Planting density in a row and between rows is 5-7 cm.

The first week after planting, lilac plants are kept under a film and sprayed twice a day.

During this time, they develop young roots. Then the shelter is removed and watered as needed. In a nursery, it is better to grow shoots for two growing seasons. In the second year, in late summer - early autumn, the seedlings are transplanted for growing shrubs in the school for two years.

The second time lilac shoots are separated in late August - early September, in more southern zones - later. Its height at this time is 15 cm or more, and the shoots are somewhat lignified. When excavated, the roots may not be very long, but rather well branched. According to the degree of development, the shoots are sorted into two varieties. The first includes stronger plants. They are planted for two to three years in a school of shrubs for growing, after which they are sold as standard seedlings. Shoots of the second grade dive into the ridges, where they grow up for one or two years, and then transplant for two years in a school of shrubs.

When caring for mother lilac plants, special attention should be paid to timely thinning of bushes, removal of old and diseased branches; faded panicles are cut off if seed collection is not expected. The soil of the trunks contains sufficiently fertilized, moderately moist and mulched.

Lilac bushes grown from shoots enter the period of mass flowering at the age of five to seven years, that is, approximately two years later than with those propagation methods when shoots are taken from already flowering branches. However, the late beginning of flowering of seedlings of coppice origin is more than compensated for by their longevity.

The degree of development of sprouts in own-rooted plants of different varieties of lilac has been little studied. It is known that a lot of growth is formed in such varieties as Buffon, Madame Casimir Perier, Captain Balte, Condorcet, Reaumur, Furst Bülow.

Lilac. How to fight? Help Wanted!

Good time of day to all!
Yesterday my husband and I tried to fight lilacs in the garden.

It was necessary to remove 3 large lilac bushes from the summer cottage with minimal losses for the garden and for our forces.
Our bushes are sooooo old, already dried up in the middle, and along the edge of the bush there is a lot of young growth and this growth stretches almost 3 meters from the bushes.
Yesterday we tried to lime one of the bushes. First, they dug in the young growth around the edges, then they broke the branches from the middle, and then they made a fire in the place of the former bush and burned them out. The effect is certainly not very good, but at least for a couple of weeks it will stop our lilacs from actively reproducing. There are a few young slices left to use new methods.
The question is: How to lime the roots? And how to remove lilac bushes from under the apple tree. One sits right close, while we are afraid to touch him.
Uprooting with hands and feet - I'm afraid my husband will not be enough for this. He tried all the time for one bush for 4 hours to lime it out, but with the roots we did not solve the issue.
I read in the internet about herbicides, such as ROUNDAP, TORNADO, URAGAN, etc.

But scary for the apple tree.
Who will advise what.

These are the bushes along the fence. some of the cherry weeds were removed, and lilacs remained for dessert.

The fruits of husbands' labors.