How to make a box in the bathroom. How and from what it is beautiful to make a pipe box in the bathroom

If you want to get a beautiful bathroom as a result of the repair, then you will need to try not only with the choice of ceramic tiles and plumbing, but also with the preparation of the room itself. For example, it is worth hiding not too beautiful pipes that are unlikely to fit into the design of the room. How to make a pipe box in the bathroom and what it can be made from, you will learn from this article.

Is it possible to build a box?

The design of the box is usually quite rigid and does not involve simple dismantling for pipe repair. Therefore, before erecting a structure, it is necessary to check their condition. If you have old communications, then it is advisable to replace them with plastic. When replacing, try not to use soldering, mount whole pieces pipes.

The fewer connections in communications, the less likely you will have to break the box to fix the leak. It may never be needed.

How to make a pipe box in the bathroom: 2 options

You can close the pipes with a box by building it directly around them, or close the entire wall with communications, including pipes. The first option creates a small threshold if the pipes run parallel to the floor or a column if they are vertical. In addition, you can save on the material from which the box will be mounted. The second option reduces the space of the room, but this can be partially corrected by making a niche for storage and niche shelves closed with doors.

Materials for creating a box

The bathroom is a special room in your home, so the materials for mounting the box should be:

moisture resistant;
environmentally friendly.

To mount the box, you will need these materials to be also not too thick and not heavy. Given the parameters you can use the following materials:

moisture resistant plywood;
plastic.

It is more convenient and reliable to use drywall or plastic to create a box.

Advantages of using drywall for a box in the bathroom

It is worth making a box of moisture-resistant drywall, because:

good moisture resistance. It has been used in such premises for many years;
it is easy to cut;
all hardware stores sell moisture-resistant drywall - there will be no difficulty in buying it;
on top of drywall, you can lay tiles, paint or apply any other decorative coating.

Advantages of using plastic for a box in the bathroom

Plastic panels too a good option for mounting the box:

quick installation that does not require a lot of tools;
excellent moisture resistance if the joints are smeared with sealant during installation;
immediately get an attractive surface with which it is easy to operate;
the material is not afraid of temperature changes;
simple and quick repair or dismantling.

Drywall pipe box in the bathroom

To begin with, we will consider all the nuances of creating a duct for pipes in the bathroom, mounted from drywall. If you have ever twisted drywall with your own hands, then skim through the most important tips in this section and its last part about collapsible design. Everything else you already know.

To install a drywall box, you will need the following tools:

metal scissors;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
self-tapping screws and, possibly, dowels;
roulette;
pencil;
level.

You probably already have most of what you need, if not all of it.

Instructions for building a drywall box

It is necessary to measure the walls near which the pipes are located. Make up detailed plan placement of connections (places of possible leaks) for the future. Doors should be located opposite the meters and valves. If you want the box to look uniform, then make removable parts of the structure instead of doors.
Make markings for the future structure on the walls, on the floor and on the ceiling (for vertical structures).

The distance between the pipes and the walls of the box is at least 2.5-3 cm!

Using a galvanized profile for marking, make a frame for the box. To do this, you will need self-tapping screws and a screwdriver if the walls are made of drywall. You can get by with a screwdriver, but the work will take more time. If the walls are brick or concrete, then use dowels and screws.

If you are installing a box for vertical pipes, then first make guides along the walls. Then the front edge is attached with the help of suspensions or a curved edge, and only after it - the galvanized profile is mounted on the ceiling and on the floor.

In the case of mounting a vertical box, non-standard designs with several edges (corners) are quite possible.

If the vertical box is more than 1.5 meters, then when mounting the frame between the guides, it is necessary to make jumpers from the profile. Max distance between jumpers - 1 meter.

Prepare drywall sheets for installation so that there are as few joints as possible.
Attach the drywall sheets in place using self-tapping screws. Do not forget to make a hole for further access to communications.
Putty the corner or corners of the structure and the joints between the sheets.
Decorate the box in the same way as the rest of the walls in the room, including installing the baseboard.
Insert the door for access to communications.

At the beginning of the article, we said that even a full-wall box can be made into a useful structure. See how you can make a niche in the video:

Collapsible construction of a drywall box

It is possible to install a collapsible drywall structure when building a pipe box in the bathroom. To do this, fasten the sheets along the very edge and do not putty them. Finishing work are not produced at the edges - they are closed with the help of corners. Thus, when you need to disassemble the structure, you simply remove the corners and unscrew all the screws. Assemble such a box after repair work with pipes it will not be difficult - it will take 20 minutes on the strength.

Plastic pipe box in the bathroom

The easiest option for a box in the bathroom is to mount it from plastic panels. Even if you have ceramic tiles everywhere, this material will fit perfectly into the interior. The main thing is to choose the right color and not overdo it with the pattern. The best option would be plain plastic panels.

Tools for mounting plastic panels

For installation you will need:

a drill or a screwdriver with a tile drill, if you have finished finishing with ceramic tiles;
self-tapping screws or dowels for the box;
cutter for plastic, grinder or electric jigsaw;
roulette;
level;
silicone.

As you can see, there are much fewer tools than in the case of drywall installation. And if you add also the tools for finishing the tiles and the time for laying it, it becomes clear that a box of plastic panels is an ideal option!

Instructions for building a box of plastic panels

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to make a box of plastic panels:

Make a markup for the box. How to do this, see above, in the instructions for drywall construction.
Install the box from the profile. It can be made the same as for drywall, or you can abandon the front face.
Prepare plastic panels according to the dimensions of the structure.
Glue the panels to the profile using silicone.
Glue the corner between the panels with silicone.

Options for service access doors

It is imperative to leave for yourself the possibility of access to meters, pipe connections and taps. To do this, you need a door or several opposite these elements. It can be bought (hatch, blinds, built-in door) or made. If you make a door with your own hands, then make it from the same material as the rest of the structure. It should be decorated in the same way as the box itself. To make it convenient to use, glue or screw a small furniture handle (these are usually installed on kitchen sets). In order to prevent the door from opening spontaneously, it must be equipped with magnets. You can make an invisible door. How it is mounted is shown in the video below.

The appearance of the bathroom can hardly be called beautiful because of the pipes that can be seen from everywhere. If you hide them, then the bathroom can be transformed. Therefore, they use a drywall box in the bathroom. It allows you to hide sewer drains, risers and water pipes. Also, with the help of a box, you can think of additional lighting.

Basically, the box is needed so that the ugly pipes are hidden and not frightened by their appearance. Moreover, even after sewing the pipes, you have the opportunity to install shelves on the box. So this design is multifunctional.

You can always leave the hatch to have access to water meters

If you make a vertical box in a drywall bathroom with your own hands, then it can be equipped with additional spotlights that will create a unique atmosphere. You can also resort to classic version when the lighting is on horizontal design. In both options, it is necessary to get confused with the lamps themselves, because the necessary special materials, fixtures and equipment for working in rooms with a high moisture content.

Summing up, we can say that drywall box in the bathroom has the following functional purposes:

Hides sewer pipes.
Hides water pipes.
Serves as a base for shelves.
Serves as the basis for lighting.

Depending on the need, the box can be vertical or horizontal, small or large, narrow or wide. It also depends on how it is installed. It is one thing to make a thin box for a drywall bath and quite another to mount a wide box right under the ceiling.

Preparatory work

In order for the workflow to go quickly and without hitches, you need to prepare in advance so as not to get stuck in the process. It all starts with a drawing. It's very simple. You already know which pipe you need to hide, so it remains only to think about the dimensions of the future structure, it is enough to step back from the pipe by 2-5 centimeters in both directions and fix the profile there. Such a distance will be quite enough, and there is no need for us to hide the place.

When sheathing vertical pipe it is necessary to use a plumb line, because it can have a certain slope. The pipe will recede as much as possible from the wall near the floor or ceiling. From this place you need to step back a couple of centimeters, and then move the point to the opposite surface.

The drawing itself can be created on a sheet for greater clarity, or you can make all the markings on the wall without using the drawing. Before you make a drywall box for pipes in the bathroom, you need to mark up. We will consider the option with pipes that run vertically in the corner, because this situation occurs in the vast majority of cases.

Marking for the box in the middle of the room

As already mentioned above, with the help of a plumb line, points on the floor and on the ceiling near the walls are indicated. With the help of this simple device, they will be clearly opposite each other, which will create an even frame. Then, using a paint cord or profile with a pencil, parallel lines are drawn on the walls, which will indicate the place where the guides are attached.

Now, from the marked points, you will need to draw lines on the floor and ceiling so that they form a right angle in both cases.

After a simple markup, you need to cut the GKL into strips of the required size so as not to fool around in small space with large sheets. It is necessary to cut two strips for the entire length of the sheet along the width of the box. You will also need a couple more small pieces, the length of which depends on the height of the ceiling. For a box of 25 * 25 cm, one standard sheet of drywall is enough. The material is still there.

Frame installation

The drywall box in the bathroom has the same assembly principle, regardless of whether the riser or the wiring pipes are hidden. For work you will need:

self-tapping screws for metal;
dowel;
guide and rack profiles;
metal scissors;
screwdriver and perforator;
level.

Profiles are joined to each other at right angles.

A solid guide profile is attached along the lines on the wall. For its installation, it is necessary to take dowels 40 mm long and fasten the guides with them in increments of 50-60 cm to the wall. After that, the same profile, but much shorter in length, is fixed in two places on the floor and in two places on the ceiling along the existing lines. Two dowels in each of the four profiles will be enough ( even if the length of the guide is 20 cm, two dowels are needed, one is not enough). At the junction of the profiles, they do not need to be screwed to each other, this will be done at the time of plasterboard sheathing.

Condensation often appears on the pipes, which flows down. It is at the point of contact with the floor that the pipes begin to rot. Since we will not see this process, it must be prevented. To do this, the pipes are wrapped with corrugations for thermal insulation. Condensation will not appear and we don't have to worry about what happens to hidden pipes.

For greater structural strength, a rack profile is inserted parallel to two guides on the walls. When assembling a drywall box in the bathroom, we connected two short profiles at a right angle at the bottom and top. And one of them ran into the other. The rack profile must be inserted into this very different guide so that it is at the very corner of the structure. For these purposes, it is the CD profile that is needed, and not the UD profile that we used earlier. The central (corner) post is not really attached to anything, so it must be stiffer than the rest of the frame.

If you do not glue the tiles on the box, then you can use the usual guides

The rack will be firmly fixed during the installation of drywall. It will go into the guides quite tightly and will not fall out. Of course, you need to choose a rack profile of such a size that it fits snugly into the guide. UD 27*28 and CD 60*27 are in this case classics of the genre. We use a level all the way so that the structure comes out without distortions.

Jumpers for extra strength and hatch

Many people prefer to prepare a sufficient number of jumpers before making a drywall box in the bathroom. But if you are new to this business, then it is better to cut the jumpers in the process. They should be installed in 40-60 cm increments between the B-pillar and the wall rails. As a result, the design will be more reliable. Drywall will be attached to the racks, which will make the surface of the box stronger and more even. The jumpers themselves can be made both from the CD profile and from the UD (whatever you have left). If the jumper is from a rack profile, then it easily enters the guides.

Jumpers can be fastened with a notcher to avoid bumps from screw heads

If it is not possible to insert the jumper directly into the profile, then you need to cut off several centimeters of ribs from both sides of the jumper, while leaving its base. In other words, the side parts of the jumper are cut off so that they can go between the profiles and there is a tongue with which it can be attached. They need to be fixed with metal screws.

Sometimes it is required to leave a viewing window in the box for the counter or other needs. Therefore, it is necessary to mark in advance the place where the hatch will be located. Just insert jumpers along its top and bottom borders.

Plasterboard sheathing and finishing

Can only be used moisture resistant drywall. It traditionally has a greenish color. The cut sheets of GKL are fixed first on one side of the box, and then on the second. Moreover, it is necessary to make sure that the joints of the sheets are not at the same level (the design will come out more reliable). Moisture-resistant drywall is fastened with black self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long in 15 cm increments. Be sure to screw in the screws in all corners. As mentioned earlier, in this place not only the GKL is attached, but profiles are also fastened to each other. It is also necessary to fasten drywall in places where jumpers are installed.

The heads of the self-tapping screws must be driven into the drywall so that they do not tear it, but do not stick out either. It is ideal to screw in the screws so that the cap is pressed into the sheet by 1-2 mm. In this case, the structure will be convenient to putty, and it will not lose its strength characteristics.

Now it’s clear how to assemble a drywall box in the bathroom, but you need to prepare it for finishing. To do this, putty all the caps of the screws, as well as all the joints. It is advisable to chamfer the joints so that a small hollow is formed, where the putty is applied. Joints must be primed beforehand so that the putty holds better. A reinforcing mesh is used to reinforce the joints.

Careful attention must be paid to all points in preparation for finishing. The above procedures should be followed carefully, and then the entire GKL box should be primed and puttied again. After all, it will be in the bathroom, so good protection from moisture is required. Relying on moisture-resistant drywall and not thinking about anything else will not work. Very often the box is finished with tiles, and these are high loads. Therefore, the design must be durable, and the putty should not lag behind. Do not forget the antifungal additives, but these are the nuances of the finish.

If you need to sheathe more than one pipe and the design of the box seems complicated, then this video can help you deal with such nuances.

In the toilet of the apartment high-rise building sewerage and water supply pipes pass through. Them appearance usually spoils the interior, so it is important to successfully hide them. Next, it will be considered how to build a drywall pipe box, and what effective methods frame assembly and exterior finish exists.

Advantages

The riser pipes usually pass through all floors, from them there are sewerage and water pipes for each apartment in the bathroom. They do not look very aesthetically pleasing, in addition, they serve as a source of additional noise when draining, and condensation can also accumulate on them. In any case, all apartment owners who care about interior design. In new houses, when handing over, there is often already some kind of partition, but its quality usually leaves much to be desired, so the most good option- make a strong and beautiful box in the toilet with your own hands.

Pipe box in combined or separate bathroom should not be completely closed, since water meters are usually located in this place, in addition, you must always have access to the riser in case of leaks. That's why homemade options can be removable or with a neat built-in door.

Making a drywall pipe box is very effective because it is lightweight, relatively cheap and easy to process. It is attached to a frame made of metal profiles with screws or self-tapping screws for metal. For such a wet room as a bathroom, it is worth taking moisture-resistant grades of drywall. The advantage of this material lies also in the fact that after installation it can be decoratively lined with any means: putty, moisture resistant paint, ceramic tiles, PVC panels. Often they try to finish the drywall box in the same style with the walls, so it turns out the most successful interior toilet.

Metal carcass and plasterboard partitions a competent owner can do almost in one day. To do this, you need a minimum of materials and a small set of tools.

Options

Depending on the location of the riser pipes in the bathroom, such a box can be:

solid partition;
a separate closet in the corner;
protruding from the wall.

The first option is relevant when all communications in the toilet are located behind the toilet near the rear load-bearing wall. It is very simple to make it, since it only requires the installation of a frame from a profile and the fastening of one continuous sheet of drywall. But in this case, more material may be required, and this method takes up a lot of space from an already small toilet room.

If the sewerage and water supply pipes are located in the corner of the toilet, a neat corner box is made. The guide profiles go from the floor to the ceiling, stiffening ribs are attached between them, the entire frame is sheathed with drywall and then proceed to its decorative finish. The box will have the shape of the letter G. Before sheathing, you need to take care of the door, which provides convenient access to the riser. It is quite easy to make a similar shape of the box due to the fact that it will be closed by load-bearing walls from the back side, its advantage is also that it takes up a minimum of space in the bathroom.

If the sewer pipes are not located in the corner of the room, but you need to save space, you can make a U-shaped box. The installation of the frame for it will be more laborious, it will be necessary to make more cuts of the metal profile, but after carefully carried out work, such a cabinet will look very elegant.

The issue of access to pipes and water meters during the construction of such partitions is very relevant. The box can be made removable, then, if necessary, the entire structure is removed entirely. The advantages of this method are that at any time convenient access to the entire riser from floor to ceiling can be made, but this design will be very cumbersome, and it is quite difficult to remove the box from metal profiles and drywall. Therefore, usually removable boxes in the bathroom are made of plastic, PVC and other lighter materials.

A much more common method of accessing a riser in a box is by installing a door. In the frame, a rectangular frame is made from the profile - it will serve as a hole to easily get inside.

Doors can be made from the same drywall, plastic, PVC, plywood or other available materials. They can be single-leaf and double-leaf, removable or hinged. For convenient closing, they can be made with locks, a latch, on magnets. Competently mounted doors, matching the finish with the box and walls of the toilet, look very nice.

Options decorative finishes There are a lot of riser boxes for pipes. The most common option is to veneer them with PVC panels. They look great, are protected from moisture, are very easy to install. With this method, if the box is angular or U-shaped, you need to purchase decorative plastic corners in order to make the design look more aesthetically pleasing.

Often plasterboard boxes are tiled with ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware. This is a good option, especially if the walls have the same finish - then the box will fit well into the interior. In addition, additional protection against moisture and noise will be created.

When decorating a drywall pipe box, it can be equipped with additional functions. There are designs with shelves for toiletries, niches for a brush or plunger, hooks for towels and other useful details. You can use the partitions of the box as efficiently as possible, you just have to show your design imagination.

Blueprints

Before installing the toilet box right decision will make frame drawings. They should indicate the dimensions of the main guide profiles, door openings, vertical and horizontal distances between the stiffeners, ventilation holes and other elements. Such drawings will help not only to orient correctly during the installation of the box, but also to calculate in advance the consumption of drywall sheets, metal profiles and fasteners.

Calculation of materials and components

It is very simple to calculate the consumption of drywall for a toilet box. It is enough to know the height from floor to ceiling and the width of the partitions - from these values you can calculate the total surface area. The number of metal profiles can be calculated based on how far the stiffeners will be located from each other, usually this distance is 30–40 cm. Here it is also worth considering the frame for the door, recesses, ventilation holes, and other details. The number of fasteners - self-tapping screws and corners - is calculated according to the number of profile joints, an amendment of 15% can be added to this.

To build a drywall box in the toilet, you will need the following materials and tools:

GKL sheets of moisture resistant 0.65–0.9 mm;
metal profiles 40x40 mm;
self-tapping screws for metal;

drywall screws;
building level;
pencil, ruler and tape measure;

perforator with a 6 mm drill for concrete;
screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver;
metal scissors or grinder;
mounting knife.

The installation of the box begins with the manufacture of a drawing and marking the location of the profiles of the future frame along the walls and on the floor. To make a smooth and durable box, it is imperative to use the building level. First of all, the guides adjacent to the bearing walls. For them, U-shaped profiles are selected, best of all 40x40 mm, they are attached to concrete with a puncher, screwdriver and dowel-screws with a diameter of 6 mm. After that, it is necessary to assemble the frame lattice with stiffeners, partitions and a frame for the future access door.

For the strength of the frame, it is correct to make the distance between adjacent pieces of profiles at least 40 cm.

The profiles are fastened together with self-tapping screws for metal using a screwdriver. After installing each element, the level is checked. Profile fragments should be trimmed with a grinder with a cutting wheel for metal or special scissors.

After the frame is ready, the drywall sheets are installed. For them there are special screws. The sheets are carefully cut to size with a paint knife and attached to the frame. The fewer pieces of drywall cut off, the better, as the number of joints that then need to be processed to a uniform surface is reduced. This should be taken into account during installation and cut as rationally as possible.

August 10, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer technology, programming.

The best way to disguise engineering Communication in the plumbing room - construct a box in the bathroom for pipes. Recently, I was doing repairs in a city apartment and designed a similar drywall construction there. The result is a fairly simple and functional design.

Features of the bathroom box

A sanitary room is a room with a specific microclimate, in which there are public utilities - water supply and sewerage.

Control devices are also usually installed on the pipes in the bathroom (hot and cold water) and control (stop valves). And herself engineering system requires periodic maintenance - monitoring the integrity of connections, cleaning filters, replacing damaged areas, and so on.

In this regard, the bathroom box must meet several important requirements:

Occupy minimum space. Considering not large area the plumbing room, the structure must be made of such a size that it does not take up free space. But at the same time, the sheathing and profiles must be at least 3 cm away from the pipes.
Provide free access to engineering systems. The design of the box should be such that you or a plumber can easily access pipes, meters and taps for inspection or repair. It is better if the box is removable, but in extreme cases it is necessary to install a sufficient number of inspection doors.
Be safe.
To harmonize with the decorative finishes of the bathroom.

There are many more requirements, but these, in my opinion, must be taken into account without fail.

Choosing the Right Material

Now let's figure out what to make a box from. Most often I had to design it for pipes from plastic panels and drywall.

A plastic box is more suitable for a riser in a sanitary room, the walls and ceiling of which are finished with the same material. Then the interior of the bathroom will look holistic and harmonious.

I prefer to use drywall. This material, when compared with plastic panels, has more advantages, which I have listed in the table:

Characteristic	Description
Ease of installation	Plasterboard sheets are easily fixed on a frame made of galvanized profiles, so they can be used to construct a box of any shape and size. You do not need to have any special skills or use sophisticated engineering equipment.
light weight	Plasterboard sheets weigh a little, so they do not exert additional load on the structural elements of the building. And to hold them, thin and light galvanized parts are enough.
Flexibility	When wetted with water and trimmed on one side, the gypsum board can be given a rounded shape, constructing a spectacular and unique box in the plumbing room, which will become the central design element.
Smooth surface	Drywall sheets have a perfectly flat surface, which facilitates their subsequent decorative processing of the box. You do not have to perform additional leveling with beacon plaster.
Variety of finishes	The surface of a box made of plasterboard sheets can be decorated with any finishing material. Most often, tiles are glued to the GKL, but you can use wallpaper, paint, and lining (plastic or wood).
fire safety	The described material consists of hardened gypsum and thin sheets of cardboard, therefore it is difficult to ignite in a fire and does not support combustion. Under the action of an open flame, it does not release toxic smoke and combustion products hazardous to health into the air.
Environmental friendliness	The material has zero level formaldehyde emissions, therefore it is completely safe for the human body both during installation and during further operation.
Affordable price	The cost of drywall sheets is low, so anyone can afford this method of sheathing the box, even if the amount planned for repairing the toilet is small.

I note right away that for the construction of the box it is necessary to use moisture-resistant drywall, which is painted in green color. It better tolerates operation in conditions high humidity and is specially designed for installation in sanitary facilities.

By the way, from plastic panels assembled from galvanized profiles, you can construct a wonderful box for linen. Including portable. If you choose the color of the panels to match the tiles or the color of the plumbing fixtures, such a container for dirty things will look quite natural in the bathroom.

Tools and additional materials

In addition to drywall, you will need other tools and materials. Personally, I use this set for work:

UD profiles for constructing frame parts that run along walls and ceilings.
CD-profiles for mounting the racks of the frame of the future box, as well as the manufacture of stiffening elements for the future design.
Dowel-nails or screws with plastic dowels, with which wall profiles will be fixed to the surface.
Building level. It is best to use a laser, but a regular water one is also quite suitable. A long tool is more suitable, as you will have to mark the walls.
Reinforcing tape for reinforcing joints between drywall sheets. It's called a sickle.
Knife for cutting drywall sheets. An ordinary clerical knife with replaceable blades or a specialized tool will do.
Perforator for drilling holes in reinforced concrete walls bathroom.
Screwdriver for fastening drywall sheets to a constructed galvanized frame.
Self-tapping screws for drywall. You will need ordinary ones (with a sharp tip) and special ones (their tip looks like a drill for metal). The latter are useful for mounting drywall sheets on the installation frame.
Putty for drywall. It is used together with a serpyanka for sealing seams between sheathing sheets.
Acrylic primer. It is used for surface treatment of plasterboards in order to reduce their absorbency and increase adhesion to tile adhesive (or other decorative material).
Metal scissors. With their help, parts of suitable size are cut from long galvanized profiles.
Spatulas. They are used for puttying drywall joints and gluing tiles.

Box mounting technology

This time I will tell you how the box is installed in a drywall bathroom, with which you can not only close the pipes, but also hide the installation for wall hung toilet(since the plumbing room in the case I described was combined).

I divided the installation technology of such a box into several successive stages, which are shown in the diagram below:

markup

I will start by marking the walls for the installation of U-shaped galvanized profiles. As I said, I will sheathe the installation along with the pipelines, to which the toilet is subsequently attached. Initially, the future battlefield looks like this:

Let's get to the markup. Despite the seeming simplicity of this process, the technology has several secrets that I want to talk about in more detail:

I am marking the walls near the vertical pipes. This is done as follows:
- First you need to find a section of the pipe that protrudes further than others, then measure a distance of 3-5 cm from it (the minimum allowable) and make a mark on the wall.

Using a laser or water level, a strictly vertical line should be drawn, which starts from the ceiling, passes through the mark made and ends at the floor.
Do the same with the adjacent wall. First, a mark is made indicating the surface of the future box, after which a strictly vertical line is drawn through it.

I am marking the boundaries of the future box on the ceiling and floor. These will be guidelines for fixing the profiles on the surfaces mentioned. The scheme of work is as follows:
- Near the ceiling, a square is applied to the line on the wall so that its long part is perpendicular to the bathroom wall.
- After that, the square is set flush with the vertical line drawn on the wall.
- Using a pencil, a line is drawn on the ceiling, along which it is subsequently necessary to fix the U-shaped profile.
- Similarly, a line perpendicular to the wall is drawn from the adjacent wall. The markup should look like this.
- After that, in a similar way, you need to mark the floor, on which profiles will also be installed to secure the frame of the future box.

I mark the place of installation of profiles near the installation for the toilet. In this place, the box will occupy a minimum of free space in the bathroom, so the profiles will be installed on the same level with the border of the installation frame. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- A square should be attached to the frame, focusing on which to beat off a mark on the bathroom wall, which will be flush with the frame.
- According to the marks you need to draw lines on the wall.
- Check the correctness of the markup using the water level. Marks must be strictly vertically and horizontally.

When marking, you can focus not on the dimensions of the pipes, but on the geometric parameters of the tile. In this case, the marking of the boundaries of the structure is carried out as follows:
- In the corner opposite to where the box will be placed, it is necessary to step back from the junction of the walls by about 1.2 cm (tile thickness with adhesive composition) and mark with a pencil. Then, through this risk, draw a vertical line along the entire wall - from the ceiling to the floor.

The distance from this mark to the intended location of the box is measured. After that, the resulting value is divided by the width of the tiles used for facing, plus 2 mm per seam between each.
Then a mark is placed for the box in such a way that after laying the tile there is no need to cut it. Or so that the cut tile is wide (that is, the cut off part is narrow). Thus, the box will look as organic as possible.

After marking is completed, you can proceed to the installation of galvanized profiles, on which drywall will subsequently be attached.

Profile mounting

Let's start with the installation of frame profiles that will sheathe vertical water and sewer pipes. The installation sequence is as follows:

I install galvanized profiles on the floor of the room. To fix them, dowel nails will be used:
- First you need to cut the U-shaped galvanized profile so that its length is equal to the length of the mark on the floor. You can cut out the part using scissors for metal.
- After that, the cut piece is tried on to the place of its installation. If for some reason protruding parts interfere with its installation, small plot profiles can be cut with scissors and bent with pliers.

Then the fitted part is pressed against the floor and straight through it into concrete surface using a perforator, a hole is made with a depth of 5 cm and a diameter that corresponds to the diameter of the selected dowels (usually 6 mm).

After that, a plastic dowel with a metal core is hammered into the hole, which will firmly hold the metal part in its intended place.
Holes are drilled in the same way and the remaining dowels are clogged. The distance between adjacent fasteners is approximately 20 cm.

I install galvanized UD profiles on the ceiling of the room. The sequence of actions is described in the previous paragraph. It is very important to ensure that all profiles are installed strictly according to the markup. Otherwise, then there will be serious difficulties when installing intermediate profiles and fixing drywall sheets.
I install vertical parts on the walls. This also requires UD profiles and dowel nails. The scheme of work is as follows:
- A part is cut from the profile using scissors for metal, the dimensions of which correspond to the distance from the floor to the ceiling.
- After that, the profile is inserted inside the parts that are already fixed to the ceiling and floor.

Then the profile is nailed to the surface with dowel-nails. First, it is better to drill a hole and hammer fasteners near the floor and ceiling itself so that the part is firmly held in place, and then make intermediate fasteners at a distance of about 20 cm from each other. At the same time, it is important to ensure that the galvanized profile is installed strictly along the line drawn on the wall.
After that, the vertical and horizontal parts must be fastened together using small self-tapping screws (“bugs”). To do this, it is necessary to squeeze the two parts together with pliers, and then screw a self-tapping screw into this place. If this is not done, the surface of the inner part may bend when the fastener is screwed into it.

If the length of the profile you have is not enough, then you can build a suitable part from two. To do this, they are inserted into each other at a distance of 15-20 cm. On the wall, this section must be strengthened with a separate dowel with a screw.

I install a corner piece for the vertical part of the box. For it, not UD is used, but a CD profile, which has the necessary strength. The installation scheme is simple. It is necessary to cut the part to the desired length, then insert it into the profiles on the ceiling and floor, and then fasten it together with small self-tapping screws, as described in paragraph 3.4.
I install intermediate stiffeners. They are made from CD-profiles. The vertical distance between adjacent elements is approximately 30 cm. They connect the profile near the wall with the central part and provide the necessary rigidity and strength of the structure during subsequent sheathing and operation. Make sure that the stiffeners are installed strictly horizontally. As a result, you should get something like this design (1 - wall profile, 2 - central profile, 3 - stiffener).

I install galvanized profiles for the box that sews up the installation. The scheme of work here is even simpler:
- First, UD-profiles are attached to the wall according to pre-made marks using dowel-nails or screws.
- Then the installation corner is connected to the profiles on the wall with another piece. All of them are fastened to each other with self-tapping screws (in the figure below, the node numbered 1).
- Please note that in the case I am describing, the frame for the cladding of the installation was fastened after the cladding of the vertical box with drywall. However, I describe this process here so as not to violate the logic of the presentation (in the figure below, the node numbered 2).

On this, the frame manufacturing process is completed and you can proceed to sewing it with drywall.

Fixing drywall sheets

How to attach drywall to the frame made:

I carry out cutting GCR on parts of the desired size. Despite the seeming simplicity of this operation, it has several nuances, which I would like to dwell on in more detail:
- First, using a tape measure, you need to measure the width of each surface of the resulting frame, and then transfer these dimensions to drywall sheets.

Then, along the resulting lines, the sheets are cut into parts. To do this, an aluminum rule (or level) is applied to the line, after which the cardboard layer on the plasterboard and part of the gypsum are cut with a knife. Then the part is turned over to the other side and broken. It remains only to cut off the second layer of cardboard and trim the end.

If necessary, technological holes must be made in the sheathing sheets before they are screwed to the frame. To do this, drywall is applied to the installation site, after which the areas to be removed are marked. Then they are cut out using the same knife or a piece of cloth from a saw blade for metal (you can’t imagine better for rounded holes).

Be sure to need holes for the installation of inspection doors. Usually they are cut in those places where there are meters or valves. It is also necessary to provide access to the revision holes in sewer pipes to clean them in case of blockage.

I fasten drywall sheets to profiles and guides. The sequence of actions is as follows:
- To fix the GKL on the frame, black self-tapping screws with sharp tips are used.
- Fasteners must be screwed in with a screwdriver that can rotate at low speeds.

Profiles are attached to both side and intermediate guides. The distance between adjacent self-tapping screws is 20 cm. Thus, it is necessary to sheathe all sections of the constructed frame. I have such a design.

I am plasterboarding an installation for a wall hung toilet. There are several important features that deserve special mention:
- I started designing the box and lining the installation only after finishing work with the vertical part of the box, since the guide part, according to my idea, is attached to drywall.

The top and side of the installation is sheathed drywall sheets in one layer, since during operation it does not experience increased loads, and the front side of the structure must be sheathed with two layers of drywall.

To fix the GKL on a metal installation, you need to use special self-tapping screws (in the figure below at number 1), the tip of which has the shape of a drill for metal. If you do not have these, then before screwing ordinary self-tapping screw(number 2 in the figure below) a hole with a diameter of 3 mm must be drilled in the installation.

The first sheet of drywall is first screwed to the front side of the installation, and then, on top of it, the second. All necessary technological holes must be pre-cut in both parts.

On this, the process of fixing drywall on the frame of our box can be considered complete. I ended up with this design.

Now you can start decorating the surface of the box.

Finishing

As finishing of my box with the installation I chose ceramic tiles. Although, as I said above, the beauty of drywall is that it can be finished with any decorative material- and wallpaper, and paint, and, if you want, plastic.

The scheme of work on gluing tiles is as follows:

I putty the gaps between the plasterboard. For this, putty for seams is used. For example, Knauf Fugenfüller. To further strengthen these areas, you can use fiberglass tape - sickle. The work is done in the following order:
- The seams are treated with a primer for drywall. It will remove dust from these sections of the box and improve the adhesion of the surface to the putty used.
- pre-mixed with water or already ready mix you need to apply with a spatula to the seams between the sheets, then carefully press it inward.
- Glue a sickle on top of the seam, then apply another small amount of mortar on top and level it with a spatula.

The primed surface of drywall. It is better to process GKL twice. Putty can be applied with a roller or a regular brush. Processing in two layers increases the adhesion strength of the adhesive and, accordingly, the latter is better to keep the tile on the surface of the finished box.

I do tiling. This process is described in detail in my articles posted on this site, so those who are interested can contact them for the necessary information. I will not dwell on this process here.

After finishing laying the tiles and drying the adhesive with silicone

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Pipes left in plain sight are not the best addition to the bathroom interior. In order for the room to have a neat and complete look, communications must be hidden. Moreover, it is desirable to do this in such a way as to have access to pipe connections, valves, meters and filters. The optimal solution this task will be the manufacture of the box. Consider how to make a pipe box in the bathroom from plastic panels.

Advantages of a plastic box

The design for masking pipes can be made of plastic or. Each of these options is good in its own way, but in terms of practicality, the plastic box is in the lead. It has many undeniable advantages:

Possibility of quick disassembly without damaging the material. This property of plastic construction is especially relevant for pipes joined with fittings and threaded connections, which are not insured against leaks. After the liquidation of the breakdown or planned Maintenance pipe box is easy to assemble back.
Absence of necessity further finishing. Plastic panels themselves are already a finishing decorative material, unlike drywall, which requires final processing.

Deformation resistance and ease of repair. The plastic used to make the panels is strong and flexible, so it's less likely to break than tiles that can be accidentally broken. Even if one panel is damaged, it is easy to replace it with a new one without damaging the entire structure.
Moisture resistance. PVC is not afraid of water, does not rot, nothing will happen to the box, even if it is installed close to the bathtub or gets wet due to condensate that forms on the pipes.
Ease of installation. Installation of the box will take only a few hours and will not require the use of expensive or specific tools.
Affordable price. Plastic panels for bathrooms are one of the most inexpensive finishing materials.
Spaciousness and compactness. Due to the small thickness of the panels plastic construction very roomy and does not take up much extra space in the bathroom, which is especially important for a small room.

The plastic box is very practical: it can be disassembled and reassembled required amount once.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the assembly of the box, you need to carry out several preliminary activities.

Examine all the pipes that will be hidden. Eliminate defects while communications are in sight. If a new pipeline is being installed along the way, try to keep the number of connections to a minimum.

Decide what kind of box in the bathroom will have. It can hide only a small area where the pipes pass, or take up a fairly large area. The advantage of the first option is to save material and no need to sacrifice free space. When choosing a more voluminous modification, additional space inside the structure can be adapted for storing things.

silicone sealant;

plinths made of PVC for masking joints;

self-tapping screws;

sharp construction knife.

Making a box frame

Follow the instructions below when installing the frame structure.

On the walls adjacent to the corner, install guides (UD profiles) that will set the dimensions of the box. Don't forget to use the level. To fasten the supporting profiles to the wall, use euro screws and dowels. If the surface is tiled, you can take metal screws 2.5 centimeters long and 3.5 millimeters in diameter. They are twisted into the seams between the tiles.

Tip: To save space in the bathroom, install the profiles closer to the pipes. The minimum distance is 3 centimeters.

If the pipes run horizontally, place the profile parallel to the floor and fix it on it.

Start shaping outer corner. From two UD profiles twist corner post. Point them shelves in different sides at a right angle and connect with small screws - "fleas".

cut bearing profile CD into parts, the length of which will correspond to the dimensions of the structure. Fasten the corner stiffener to the wall. Insert the finished pieces of the profile with one end into the guide installed at the first stage, with the other into the stiffener. Thus, both parts of the corner are connected to the profile.

Every 50 centimeters, add jumpers, which are necessary for the subsequent fastening of PVC panels.

The second corner profile is attached in a similar way to another wall.

We sheathe the frame with PVC panels

After it's ready Basic structure, you can proceed to its skin. You need to do this in the following sequence:

Install the start profile. Carefully, avoiding deformation, fix it with the help of "fleas" on the installed rail.

Measure the strip plastic panel desired length, cut it with a sharp knife.

Fix one panel in the start profile, attach the second to corner profile and install it to another plane of the box. To connect, use all the same "fleas", or "bugs".

Assemble the other side of the box in the same way. Fix the starting profile on the last plastic panel, then fix it. If you do this with silicone, you can ensure that you can easily dismantle it in the future in case of an emergency.

Cut inspection holes where you need easy access to important elements pipeline: taps, meters and joints. Via silicone sealant fix special hatches in the holes.