Street panel for the meter. We assemble the shield in the apartment and house ourselves

In such cases, the standard network parameters for connecting a private home are:

- 3 phase

- Voltage: 380V

- Power allocated: 15 kW

- Input cable: SIP 4-core (3 phase conductors and PEN)

I would like to note that one of the main tasks of technical specifications is not only to ensure the safety of the electrical installation, but also to prevent the possibility of theft of electricity by consumers.

That is why all protection or switching devices in the electrical panel located before the electric meter must be protected from the possibility of illegal connection. Usually they are hidden in separate boxes, which are sealed when connected.

Besides, technical specifications require that the metering board be placed in a place accessible for inspection- at the border of the site, on a lighting pole or fence.

Most often, such external panels are used exclusively for accounting, without additional capabilities, and provide only basic functions. The main distribution board (PDB), in this case, is installed inside the house, where all consumers are divided into groups, the load is distributed, the appropriate automatic protective equipment is installed, etc.

All the diagrams presented below will be designed for the two most popular grounding systems in private homes TT And TN-C-S. Under each connection option there will be links to step by step instructions on assembly, with detailed comments.

If you have not decided which grounding system to choose, the following information will help you:

TT is a relatively safer system. The main disadvantages include only the high costs of installing protective equipment and installing a ground loop, as well as regular maintenance. Which, for safe operation, must always be maintained by you in working order.

You will learn more about the differences in the design of grounding systems in one of the following articles. Subscribe to our VKontakte group and stay tuned for new materials.

A simple diagram for connecting the electrical panel of a private house 15 kW

The simplest budget option for assembling a metering board is presented below. Only the most necessary elements are used here:

1. Metal hinged shield.

2. Plastic box 3 modules, with eyes for seals

3. Three-pole Protective circuit breaker, characteristic C25 (for an allocated power of 15 kW this rating is needed)

4. Metering device electrical energy(meter) 3-phase 380V

5. Distribution switching block, capable of connecting wires with a cross-section of up to 16 mm2.

Scheme of a simple electrical metering panel for a private house 15 kW, TN-C-S grounding system:

Simple metering panel, TT grounding system

This option is often used as a temporary one, for example, to connect a change house during construction, as it has few means of protection.

For your house in which you plan to live permanently, even for a country house, I recommend using the following assembly:

Optimal diagram of a 380V electricity metering board for a private house 15 kW

It differs from the previous one by the presence of selective ( number 6), it works immediately for all consumers in the house, it is also called fire protection. The installation of an RCD at the entrance to the house is recommended by the Electrical Installation Rules - PUE.

Recommended metering board diagram for a private house 380V using selective RCD, grounding TN-C-S

This is the most balanced scheme that can be implemented for a remote electrical metering panel at home, simple and reliable. It is suitable for everyone, and this is what I recommend collecting.

To improve it, in order to enhance the protection of the electrical network and electrical appliances at home, you can add a surge protection device (SPD).

Option for an electrical panel for a private house with an SPD

It is up to you to decide whether to install an SPD or not. This depends on many factors that need to be taken into account. If you decide, these diagrams will help you.

Often, in an overhead electrical panel, in addition to the above equipment, it is necessary to install some other modular devices, for example, switching. In particular, a conventional socket mechanism can be very useful, especially during the construction phase.

You can connect a power tool, spotlight, or any other electrical device that needs to be used outdoors. There are often no other ways to connect to the power grid.

Electrical 380V electricity metering panel for a private house with a 220V socket

In this scheme electrical panel Additionally there is a modular socket 220V ( number 7) with an individual protection device - difavtomat ( number 8), combining a Circuit Breaker and a Residual Current Device. The rating of the RCD must be higher than that of the circuit breaker, for example 40A, leakage current 100 or 300 mA.

Electrical metering panel 380V, with modular socket and automatic circuit breaker, TT grounding

Following this example, where the outlet is protected by a residual current circuit breaker, you can install any other modular equipment, contactors, transformers, etc. to the electricity metering panel, if necessary.

Let me note again that under each diagram there are links, by clicking on which you can read the details, find out the equipment used, and ask questions.

If you know any other useful options assembling a metering board for a private house 380V, write in the comments, this may be interesting and useful to many.

Otherwise, here are the main options that are used when connecting private houses and garden houses. And most importantly, such electrical panels are successfully accepted by regulatory authorities and put into operation.

Hello, dear friends and colleagues! We present to you assembled and ready for shipment. street electricity metering panel with degree of protection IP54 for installation on a pole or support.

Purpose of the control room

Street electricity metering board designed for metering electricity and protecting electrical equipment from overloads and short circuits on the outgoing line in networks with a solidly grounded neutral at a voltage of ~380/220 V AC with a frequency of 50 Hz.

Next, “Street metering board”...

Street metering board designed for installation on a pole or support, it can also be mounted on external wall building. The electrical panel has a degree of protection IP54 - thereby protecting the electrical equipment installed inside the electrical panel from dust and moisture.

Design features of the control room

Electrical panel housing made from sheet metal and has a mounting panel for mounting a single- or three-phase meter, as well as circuit breakers to protect electrical equipment from overloads and short circuits.

On back wall The housing provides four independent fastenings for installing the electrical panel on the wall - thus: the degree of protection IP54 is not violated!
The metering board has a protective panel from accidental contact with live parts of the outgoing line.
On the door The electricity metering panel has a viewing window for taking readings from the electricity meter.

Appearance

Conditional elements in the diagram

Designation	Name of installation equipment	Quantity
QF1	3P circuit breaker. 50A	1 PC.
PI1	Electric energy meter Mercury 231 AT-01 two-tariff 3-phase 5(60)A 50Hz	1 PC.
SF1	3P circuit breaker. 32A	1 PC.
SF2	3P circuit breaker. 20A	1 PC.
SF3	3P circuit breaker. 10A	1 PC.
XS1	DIN rail socket 220 V with grounding	1 PC.

In fact, the metering cabinet was made to order using an individual electrical circuit. If you need a slightly different configuration and configuration of the electrical panel, call us! or send us an application with attached electrical diagram, through the application form on our website.

We don't want to offend anyone!

These examples are here only so that you can compare our build quality with the quality of other electrical panel assemblers!

How do you like the quality? liked? want a little bit cheaper? like third party manufacturers latest photos, alas... We don’t know how to collect!

An electrical panel in a private house, country house, or apartment performs a dual function: it provides input and distribution of electricity and creates safe operating conditions. If you want to understand a difficult issue, you can assemble the electrical panel yourself. The input machine and the meter must be installed by representatives of the electricity supply organization, but then, after the meter, you can assemble the circuit yourself (although they do not like to lose money). True, before putting the house into operation, you will need to invite them so that they are present during the start-up, check everything and measure the ground loop. All this - paid services, but they cost much less than a complete shield assembly. If you do everything correctly and according to the standards, it will turn out even better on your own: after all, you are doing it for yourself.

What should be in the shield

Both in an apartment and in a private house there are several options for the layout of the shield. This mainly concerns the installation location of the input machine and the counter. In a private house, the meter can be placed on a pole, and the machine can be placed on the wall of the house, almost under the roof. Sometimes a meter is installed in a house, but this is if it was built a couple of decades ago. Recently, metering devices are installed in the house extremely rarely, although there are no regulations or instructions on this matter. If the meter is located indoors, it can be placed in a panel; then when choosing a panel model, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the meter.

In some apartment buildings The meters are located in boxes on the staircases. In this case, the cabinet is needed only for RCDs and automatic machines. In other houses it is located in the apartment. When upgrading the electrical network, you will have to buy a cabinet so that the meter can fit in there, too, or buy a separate box for the meter with an input machine.

Safety is very important when designing a power supply. First of all, it is provided for people: with the help of an RCD - a residual current device (number 3 in the photo), which is installed immediately after the meter. This device is triggered if the leakage current exceeds a threshold value (there is a short circuit to ground or someone sticks their fingers into the socket). This device breaks the circuit, minimizing the possibility of electric shock. From the RCD, the phase is supplied to the inputs of the machines, which are also triggered when the load is exceeded or when short circuit in a chain, but each in his own area.

Secondly, it is necessary to ensure the normal operation of household appliances and electrical appliances. Modern complex technology is controlled by microprocessors. Im for normal operation A stable supply is required. Having observed the voltage in our network for some time, it cannot be called stable: it varies from 150-160 V to 280 V. Imported equipment cannot withstand such a variation. Therefore, it is better to turn on at least some groups of machines that supply power to complex equipment through. Yes, it costs a lot. But during voltage surges, the control boards are the first to “fly”. They are not repaired here, but simply replaced. The cost of such a replacement is about half the cost of the device (more or less depends on the type of device). It's hardly cheaper. When assembling the electrical panel with your own hands, or just planning it for now, remember this.

One example of a panel layout for a small circuit - for 6 machines

The stabilizer is installed on one or several groups and is turned on after the RCD and before the group circuit breakers. Since this is a rather large device, it won’t be possible to install it in a panel, but you can install it next to it.

Also, two buses are installed in the panel: grounding and grounding. All grounding wires from instruments and devices are connected to the grounding bus. The wire comes to the “zero” bus from the RCD and is fed to the corresponding inputs of the machines. Zero is usually designated by the letter N; when wiring, it is customary to use a blue wire. For grounding - white or yellow-green, the phase is carried out with a red or brown wire.

At self-assembly electrical panel, you will need to purchase the cabinet itself, as well as the rails (called DIN rails or DIN rails) on which the circuit breakers, RCDs and switches are mounted. When installing the slats, check with a level that they are horizontal: there will be no problems with fastening the machines.

All machines must be connected to each other. This can be done using conductors - connecting their inputs in series, or using a ready-made connecting comb. A comb is more reliable, although it costs more, but if you take into account the time that you will spend connecting all the machines, it is unlikely that a few tens of rubles are of such fundamental importance.

Scheme for several groups

Power supply schemes are not always simple: groups of consumers are divided into floors, outbuildings, lighting for the garage, basement, yard and local area. At large quantities consumers, in addition to the general RCD after the meter, install the same devices, only of lower power - for each group. Separately, with the obligatory installation of a personal protective device, the power supply to the bathroom is removed: this is one of the most dangerous rooms in a house or apartment.

It is very advisable to install protective devices on each of the inputs that go to powerful household appliances(more than 2.5 kW, and even a hair dryer can have this power). Together with a stabilizer, they will create normal conditions for the operation of electronics.

Not the best either complex circuit, but with more high degree protection - more RCD

In general, when designing the exact design, you will have to find a compromise: make the system safe without spending too much money. It is better to buy equipment from trusted companies, but it costs a lot. But power grids are not an area where you can save money.

Types and sizes of electrical panels

We will talk about cabinets/drawers for installing automatic machines and other electrical equipment, and their varieties. According to the type of installation, electrical panels are for outdoor installation and for internal. The box for outdoor installation is attached to the wall with dowels. If the walls are flammable, an insulating material that does not conduct current is placed underneath. When mounted, the external electrical panel protrudes above the wall surface by about 12-18 cm. This must be taken into account when choosing its installation location: for ease of maintenance, the panel is mounted so that all its parts are approximately at eye level. This is convenient when working, but can pose a risk of injury (sharp corners) if the location for the cabinet is poorly chosen. The best option- behind the door or closer to the corner: so that there is no possibility of hitting your head.

Shield for hidden installation implies the presence of a niche: it is installed and walled up. The door is flush with the wall surface; it may protrude a few millimeters, depending on the installation and design of the particular cabinet.

The housings are metal, painted powder paint, there are plastic ones. Doors are solid or with transparent plastic inserts. Various sizes - elongated, wide, square. In principle, for any niche or conditions you can find suitable option. One piece of advice: if possible, choose a larger cabinet: it is easier to work in it, this is especially important if you are assembling an electrical panel with your own hands for the first time.

When choosing a building, they often operate on such a concept as the number of seats. This refers to how many single-pole circuit breakers (12 mm thick) can be installed in a given housing. You have a diagram with all the devices listed on it. You count them taking into account the fact that bipolar ones have double width, add about 20% for the development of the network (suddenly you buy another device and there is nowhere to connect, or during installation you decide to make two from one group, etc.). And for such a number of “seating” places, look for a shield with a suitable geometry.

Installation and connection of elements

All modern automatic devices and RCDs have a unified mounting for a standard mounting rail (DIN rail). On back side they have a plastic stop that snaps onto the bar. Place the device on the rail, hooking it with the recess on the back wall, and press the bottom part. Once clicked, the item is installed. All that remains is to connect it. They do it according to the scheme. The corresponding wires are inserted into the terminals and the contact is pressed with a screwdriver, tightening the screw. There is no need to tighten it too much - you can squeeze the wire.

They operate with the power off, all switches are turned to the “off” position. Try do not handle wires with both hands. Having connected several elements, turn on the power (input switch), then turn on the installed elements, checking them for the absence of a short circuit (short circuit).

The phase from the input is supplied to the input circuit breaker, from its output it goes to the corresponding input of the RCD (place the jumper with copper). In some circuits, the neutral wire from the water is supplied directly to the corresponding input of the RCD, and from its output it goes to the bus. The phase wire from the output of the protective device is connected to the connecting comb of the machines.

In modern schemes the input machine is installed two-pole: he must simultaneously disconnect both wires (phase and neutral) in order to completely de-energize the network in the event of a malfunction: this is safer and these are the latest electrical safety requirements. Then the circuit diagram for switching on the RCD looks like in the photo below.

To learn how to install an RCD on a DIN rail, watch the video.

After required amount devices are mounted on a mounting rail, their inputs are connected. As they said earlier, this can be done with wire jumpers or a special connecting comb. See the photo for what the wire connections look like.

There are two ways to make jumpers:

Cut the conductors into the required sections, expose their edges and bend them in an arc. Insert two conductors into one terminal, then tighten.
Take a long enough conductor and strip off 1-1.5 cm of insulation every 4-5 cm. Take pliers and bend the exposed conductors so that you get interconnected arcs. Insert these exposed areas into the appropriate sockets and tighten.

They do this, but electricians say the quality of the connection is poor. It is safer to use special tires. Under them on the case there are special connectors (narrow slots, closer to the front edge), into which bus contacts are inserted. These tires are sold by the meter and cut into pieces of the required length using ordinary wire cutters. Having inserted it and installed the supply conductor in the first of the machines, tighten the contacts on all connected devices. Watch the video on how to connect machines in a panel using a bus.

A phase wire is connected to the output of the machines, which goes to the load: to household appliances, to sockets, switches, etc. Actually, the assembly of the shield is finished.

Selection of machines for a house or apartment panel

There are three types of devices used in an electrical panel:

Machine. Turns power off and on manual mode, and also triggers (breaks the circuit) in the event of a short circuit in the circuit.
RCD(residual current device). It controls the leakage current that occurs when the insulation breaks down or if someone touches the wires. If one of these situations occurs, the circuit is broken.
Diff. machine(). This is a device that combines two in one housing: it monitors both the presence of short circuit and leakage current.

Differential automatic devices are usually installed instead of a combination - RCD + automatic. This saves space in the panel - it requires one less module. Sometimes this is important: for example, you need to turn on another power line, but there is no space for installation, just like there is no free machine.

In general, two devices are often installed. Firstly, it is cheaper (differential automatic machines are more expensive), secondly, when one of the protective devices you know exactly what happened and what you need to look for: a short circuit (if the circuit breaker was turned off) or a leak and possible overcurrent (the RCD was tripped). You will not find this out when the automatic machine is triggered. Unless you install a special model that has a flag indicating what malfunction the device was triggered by.

Automatic circuit breakers

Automatic circuit breakers selected by current, which is necessary for consumers of this group. It is calculated simply. Add up the maximum power of all simultaneously connected devices in the group, divide by the network voltage - 220 V, and get the required current power. Take the device rating a little higher, otherwise when all loads are turned on, it will turn off due to overload.

For example, adding up the power of all devices in a group, we got a total value of 6.5 kW (6500 W). Divide by 220 V, we get 6500 W / 220 V = 29.54 A.

The current ratings of the circuit breakers can be as follows: (in A) 6, 10, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63. The closest larger one to the given value is 32 A. This is what we are looking for.

Types and types of RCD

RCDs have two types of action: electronic and electronic-mechanical. The difference in price for a device with the same parameters is large - electronic-mechanical ones are more expensive. But you need to purchase them for a shield in your house or apartment. There is only one reason: they are more reliable, since they operate regardless of the presence of power, while electronic ones require power to operate.

For example, the situation is this: you are repairing wiring, for example, a socket, and for this purpose you have de-energized the network - turned off the input circuit breaker. In the process, the insulation was damaged somewhere. If an electro-mechanical RCD is installed, it will operate even in the absence of power. You will realize that you did something wrong and will look for the reason. Electronic equipment is inoperative without power, and if you turn on a network with damaged insulation, you may have problems.

To understand which device is in front of you, it is enough to have a small battery and a couple of wires on hand. Battery power is supplied to any pair of RCD contacts. The electro-mechanical one will work, but the electronic one will not. More details about this in the video.

type AC - alternating sinusoidal current;
type A - alternating current+ pulsating constant;
type B - alternating + pulsating direct + rectified current.

It turns out that type B gives the most complete protection, but these devices are very expensive. For a house or apartment panel it is quite enough, type A, but not AC, which are mostly sold because they are cheaper.

Except type RCD, it is selected according to current. Moreover, according to two parameters: nominal and leakage. A nominal one is one that can pass through the contacts without destroying (melting) them. The rated current of the RCD is taken one step higher than the rated current of the machine installed in pair with it. If a machine is needed for 25 A, then take an RCD for 40 A.

In terms of leakage current it is still simpler: in electrical distribution boards For apartments and houses, only two values are set - 10 mA and 30 mA. 10 mA is placed on a line with one device, for example, on a gas boiler, washing machine etc. as well as in rooms where a high degree of protection is necessary: in a children's room or bathroom. Accordingly, a 30 milliamp RCD is installed in lines that include several consumers (devices) - on sockets in the kitchen and rooms. Such protection is rarely installed on lighting lines: there is no need, except for street lighting or in a garage.

RCDs also have different response delay times. They are of two types:

S - selective - triggers after a certain time after the appearance of the leakage current (quite a long period of time). They are usually placed at the entrance. Then, if an emergency occurs, the device on the damaged line is first turned off. If the leakage current remains, then the “senior” selective RCD will operate - usually this is the one located at the input.
J - also triggers with a delay (protection against random currents), but with a much shorter delay. This type of RCD is placed in groups.

Differential automatics there are the same types How RCD and are chosen in exactly the same way. Only when determining power by current do you immediately consider the load and determine the rating.

For a few explanations on installing a built-in cabinet for a panel and the connection procedure, see the video from a practitioner and generalist.

One important detail, which is important for safety. There is a “test” button on the RCD or differential circuit breaker. When it is pressed, a leakage current is artificially created and the device must operate - the switch goes to the “off” position and the line is de-energized. This is how functionality is checked. This must be done at least once a month to be sure of the reliability of the protection. Check all the RCDs in the circuit one by one. It is important.

This is probably all the information you need to assemble an electrical panel with your own hands. You may still need to learn more about how to divide the workload into groups, about this.

Owners of private households sooner or later have to take their utility metering devices outside. Service organizations have a number of requirements for this event. One of them is the corresponding clause of the PUE, according to which the shield is installed on the facades of houses, supports, pillars, fences, etc.

We will tell you how to place and secure an outdoor box for an electric meter in accordance with building regulations. The article we have proposed describes in detail the selection criteria and rules for installing a box for a flow meter and other equipment. Are given useful recommendations for assembling the shield and carrying out installation.

The box must perform three functions. The first is to ensure the safety of people during maintenance and operation of the electrical network. The box must be grounded.

The second is to create optimal conditions for devices located inside. The structure must be well protected from atmospheric influences: moisture, sunlight, wind.

Boxes for electric meters are made of metal or plastic. The latter are considered safer to use because they prevent electric shock to the user.

The third is to provide access to the metering device to representatives of the service organization. This condition is specified in contracts with consumers, although the PUE does not contain a direct requirement to install meters on the street.

Types of boxes by type of design

Foreign and domestic manufacturers offer boxes of different sizes and capacity. The option is selected depending on the parameters of the equipment that is planned to be placed in the box.

The dimensions of the shield are also selected for the type of meter. Single-phase metering devices are smaller in size than three-phase ones, sometimes two times

There are also certain markings that indicate the type and purpose of the box. Example:

control room- ordinary and simplest;
ShchVR- a box built into the wall;
ShchRN- distribution and hanging box.

If it is just a metering panel, it usually contains only a meter, an input machine, grounding and neutral buses. , and are also installed in the “home” box. But you can combine all this in one box.

The design of the shield can be:

floor;
built-in;
invoice or mounted;
hidden or open;
whole or collapsible.

What kind of equipment, in what quantity and with what parameters should be installed in the box - all these points are prescribed in the project. If there is no such document, you need advice from relevant specialists.

Basic criteria for choosing a box

The main task of the consumer is to find a durable, practical box that will withstand long-term service in street conditions. The box should be convenient for installation and operation.

What is important about the design itself? The presence of holes of the appropriate diameter for the wires that come from the support and lead out to the building. It is desirable that these elements have rubber seals and plastic couplings.

A convenient detail is the window. It eliminates the need to open the shield to take readings and reduces the frequency of contact of the internal contents with air and moisture. Pay attention to the sealing lugs.

The IP20 index means that the box is protected from dust particles larger than 12.5 mm, but is vulnerable to moisture. IP65 guarantees complete isolation from these negative factors. The higher the number, the more expensive the design. The optimal option is with a score of 54.

When choosing an electrical panel, you also need to look at the thickness of its walls, range operating temperature, number of doors, lock type. The box can be locked with one individual key or equipped with several identical ones.

Box installation requirements

Metering device and optional equipment It is allowed to install only in a sufficiently rigid structure. It must be well insulated from moisture and other negative atmospheric phenomena.

Meters with significant temperature changes may give errors in readings, so it is recommended to insulate the box with special caps or heating elements. This will also extend the life of the devices.

Main points PUE-7:

The distance between the floor and the box with the meter terminals should be in the range of 0.8-1.7 m. The deviation of the first indicator is allowed up to 0.4 m.
If the location is accessible to unauthorized persons, the box must be equipped with a secure lock and viewing window.
The design and dimensions of the cabinet must provide easy access to all elements of the installation and the ability to replace devices, if necessary.
During installation, the ends of the wires from 12 cm must be left near the meter. A piece of the neutral wire at a final length of 10 cm must have a distinctive color.
Grounding with copper protective conductors is mandatory.
Electrical wiring must not have any solders.
Verification periods: for three-phase meters - 1 year, for single-phase meters - 2 years.

In addition to the requirements for the meters and boxes themselves, the rules also apply to cables, wires, and fastenings. For a multi-core cable, it is mandatory to use an NShVI (tip). When attaching cable ends to equipment, sealed glands (glands) are also needed.

One of the options for arranging an electrical panel in which a metering device is installed, an input machine. Layout of devices and their specifications selected depending on the parameters of a specific electrical network

DIY wardrobe

If you have experience and desire, you can arrange a cabinet for an electric meter yourself. You will need to buy the design itself, arm yourself necessary tools and carry out in accordance with the specifics of the home electrical network.

If you come across a cabinet of the required dimensions, but it lacks a window, lugs for seals or some holes, it is permissible to add these elements. But the work must be carried out in accordance with safety regulations and the requirements of regulatory organizations.

All necessary equipment is mounted on DIN rails. Many models of metering devices come with parts that may be useful during installation (stickers, caps, fasteners). The main task is to assemble the devices and connect them correctly with each other.

Models of external meters

If you buy new counter, rather than taking the existing one out of the room, you need a device suitable for use in outdoor conditions.

Please note the following points:

Induction models are much more sensitive to temperature changes than electronic ones.
DIN rail is preferable as a mounting method.
Go to the website of the electricity sales organization and see which models are allowed for installation in Russia.
For a multi-tariff payment system, choose a device that can take into account more than three tariffs.

Brand awareness and availability service centers matters too. A trusted manufacturer means quality, maintainability, and loyalty of inspection organizations.

Among the commercially available domestic brands, we can consider the following: INCOTEX, Taipit, Energomera, EKF. Particularly popular is the model “Mercury” 230 AM-03. It has a single tariff and is capable of giving accurate readings at temperatures ranging from -40 to +55 degrees.

From foreign manufacturers have proven themselves well: Swedish-Swiss ABB, French Schneider Electric, Turkish Legrand. But European brands often have operating temperature ranges that do not correspond to Russian realities.

It is advisable to consult with specialists from the service organization in your region. They usually have a list of devices that have already proven themselves the best side during operation.

Automatic and heater

An automatic switch is installed in the box before the meter. Its parameters must be calculated from the total power of all consumers - electrical appliances installed or planned in the house and on the street/garage and other domestic buildings.

If, for example, the total power is 25 kW, then a 63 A automatic machine is optimally suitable for this value. In addition to the input one, you need an outgoing line automatic machine, protective for the heater and modem (if any). Using the latter, the readings are automatically transmitted to the processing center. But such a scheme cannot do without a heater.

The heater for the electrical panel can be turned on and off manually or automatically. It is needed to maintain optimal temperature in cold weather - electrical appliances need heat to work without errors

Heaters for electrical panels are made of aluminum, which is coated with non-flammable thermoplastics.

The main functions of the element are to prevent the appearance of condensation, which prevents corrosive changes in current-carrying busbars and contacts and protects devices from high humidity.

Transfer input device and SPD

If the electrical installation includes an autonomous power source, a backup device must be installed after the meter. This device is needed to manually switch consumers from the external network to the generator and back.

The reserve input device eliminates the simultaneous use of two different power sources (external network and generator), which is its task

To protect the installation from lightning strikes, high-voltage surges and fires from these impacts, an SPD (surge protection device) is added to the panel. It is placed after the input circuit breaker and through a separate fuse. An SPD is required if entry into the building is carried out via an airway.

Additionally, a cross-module for distributing electricity across different groups consumers. Sometimes a differential machine is also added to the box.

The socket is one of the optional elements. But if construction is just underway on your site or you need a street connection for some equipment, you can’t do without it. And don’t forget about the zero rail, it combines all the zero cables and is used for connecting cores.

How is installation carried out?

All equipment must be connected by an electrician, provided he has the necessary documents for such work. The owner of the power line has such specialists. Inviting someone else or doing everything yourself is not practical.

Unqualified craftsmen may not compare the technical characteristics of the input equipment with the actual loads on the network, “forget” about electric shock protection devices, or even make gross mistakes in the sequence of their connection. Therefore, it is highly desirable to know how installation is carried out.

First, an input device is equipped - this is the cabinet itself, where there are mechanisms for protecting and connecting incoming cables to outgoing ones. It’s good if the pipe with the cable goes directly into the box itself. Let's consider the connection process using the example of a three-phase network.

The figure shows how three phase conductors (L1, L2, L3) are connected to the input contacts of the switch. The latter will cut off the entire network if necessary. In the figure also: N – zero; PE – ground

There are many switches on sale; one three-pole circuit breaker will do, which can be moved outside the input device. One of such designs is YaBPVU-100. This iron box with break contacts and 100 A fuse links.

The most important element of the input device is the grounding bus, to which repeated grounding with a neutral incoming conductor is connected. It splits the PEN conductor into a ground wire and an outgoing neutral. Then the cable from the box goes to the house, where its own panel is installed.

Zero splitting can also occur in the input device itself. In this case, the panel will be called an input distribution panel.

If you intend to disconnect street wiring, you can make a special outlet from the main panel. Thus, devices designed for three-phase power supply will have separate circuit breakers and RCDs.

The equipment is connected via power plug connectors or busbar boxes. Their degree of protection must be greater than or equal to IP45.

How to assemble and install a panel for a meter in an apartment is written in detail in, which we recommend that owners of urban housing familiarize themselves with.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video #1. Assembling all box elements before installation:

Video #2. Assembly and installation of a three-phase meter instead of the old single-phase one, plus an estimate for such work:

Video #3. Analysis of the process of connecting electricity from a support (pole):

To install a box for an electric meter on the street, you need to select the box itself and its internal equipment so that the structure and devices can withstand outdoor conditions. You can assemble the panel yourself, but it is better to entrust all connections from the support and to the house to a specialist from a service organization.

An important part of the power supply system is the electrical panel for the meter and machines. It is with the determination of its location that planning or modernization begins electrical networks. The device is distribution box, used to monitor and control all electrical wiring lines. Therefore, it is so important to choose and install it correctly.

An electrical panel is a distribution box, designed to accommodate input devices, protection elements and an electricity meter. This box is used both at production facilities and in private houses and apartments. In the technical documentation you can also find another name for it - distribution point.

In fact, the device is a box with seats for mounting electrical fittings. Its design includes a door designed not only to protect the equipment located in the cabinet, but also to prevent electric shock. Depending on the purpose, shields produced by industry can be:

Thus, electricity is supplied to socket or lighting groups from the switchboard. All necessary electrical equipment is installed in the floor or apartment unit, for example, package circuit breakers, RCD, voltage relay, input differential circuit breaker, zero and grounding voltage block. In addition, an electricity meter can be mounted in it.

Requirements to various types shields are the same. They are designated in the operating rules for electrical installations (PUE) and GOST 51321. The main contents of these documents are as follows:

Types of shields

The division of panels according to purpose is conditional and is intended to be indicated on building plans or in other documentation understandable to specialists. For consumers, electrical cabinets are divided according to other criteria. First of all, this includes installation, which can be built-in or wall-mounted.

The built-in (internal) structure looks more attractive, since it forms almost one whole with the wall on which it is placed. The second type is hung using fasteners, which allows it to be used even on thin partitions. It should be noted that there is also a shield floor type, made in the form of a cabinet and used only in production.

In addition, electric boxes vary in size and material from which they are made. Metal or plastic is used as a base for them. There is no fundamental difference between the use of one material or another, but for built-in or outdoor use it is recommended plastic box, although the metal one is vandal-proof and has a lock.

All shields have their own markings, consisting of letters and numbers. So, ShchKU means apartment metering panel, ShchKR means distribution panel, ShchRV means internal, and ShchRN means mounted. The number after the abbreviation indicates the number of modules that can fit in the device. For example, the marking ShchRN-10 means that the electrical cabinet is intended for wall-mounted design and is designed to install ten modules.

There are also models that have a mounting panel. They are designated SHMP. Due to their small dimensions and good appearance, they can be used both in floor niches and in apartments. The difference between outdoor devices (SHRNM) is the ability to remove the mounting panel, which allows you to increase the useful volume of the box.

Characteristics of distribution blocks

Technical specifications distribution boxes For electric machines are related to ergonomics and the number of simultaneously installed modules. Thus, the quality of the device depends on the accuracy of the fit of the elements, the type of materials used in the manufacture and the coating of the metal parts. The following design characteristics are distinguished:

Dimensions. Indicated in millimeters. Most often, the electrical panel is made in a rectangular shape.
Number of modules. Indicates the number of seats for electric machines. It should be noted that some devices, for example differential automatic machines, can occupy more than two places. Unit of measurement - pieces. Additionally, space may be provided for installing an electricity consumption meter.
Material. Shields are made of metal or non-flammable plastic.
Place of use. There are options for outdoor and indoor execution.
Door type. If the electrical panel has a door, then it can be transparent or solid. It is made of sheet metal or plastic and can be supplemented with a fire-resistant seal, as well as have a latch or a full-fledged lock.
Type of instalation. There can be three types: wall-mounted, built-in, floor-mounted.
Level of protection. This value corresponds to the standard international classification. It is characterized by an IP protection system, which determines the degree of withstanding the impact of solid objects and water, and IK, indicating resistance to impacts (the more, the better).
Color. Available in various color scheme, may have the texture of wood or other decorative material.

Nuances of choice

IN retail outlets electrical panels are presented in a large assortment. They are produced by almost all leading manufacturers of electrical accessories. Most often, electricians choose shields such brands, like Schneider Electric, Hager, ABB, Legrand, Viko, IEK, Makel (the last 3 are the most budget options).

Before purchasing a device, you will need to decide where the box will be located and what electrical accessories you plan to install in it.

Wall-mounted cabinets allow for safe electrical installation; they are mainly intended for installation in wooden houses or on walls where it is difficult to create a niche. Built-in boxes fit perfectly into the interior and are used in corridors intended for emergency exit.

If you plan to purchase an apartment built-in electrical panel, then you should clarify the issue of installing an electricity meter. Since the consumer does not have the right to disconnect and switch the meter, he will need to call an electrician before moving it into the box. To avoid this, you can purchase a small box for your home. On average for three-room apartment A box designed for 12 modules is enough, taking into account the fact that the introductory machine takes up two seats.

In case of a planned replacement or relocation of the meter, you can buy a combined cabinet. Location of all distribution elements in one place it will look more harmonious. At the same time, it will be more convenient to commute them with each other. It is desirable that there is a slot in the closing door through which it is convenient to take readings from the metering device. It’s even better if the electrical panel is equipped with a transparent door. It will allow you not to open the box every time to assess the position of the circuit breakers.

For domestic and administrative buildings, the protection class of the shield must be at least IP31, for industrial buildings - IP54. Street sign located on open area, must have a protection class of IP55 and higher. The dimensions of the electrical panel depend on the types of modules installed in it and their number. Most often, devices with a depth of 120 mm are chosen for the home.

Installation and assembly

The assembly of an external or internal structure is not fundamentally different from each other. But in the second case, you first need to make a niche into which the grooved channels for laying the electrical wire will fit . Any electrical cabinet consists of several parts, which include:

base of the shield;
place for laying the electrical cable with its holders;
racks for fastening terminal blocks;
din rail.

Depending on the model, a door, security plate or lock may be added.

Direct installation involves mounting the box in the designated place. But before this, depending on the side of the cable plant, a plug is broken off in the shield. Electrical wires are inserted into the resulting hole. The external box is hung on a pre-installed bracket. There are also models that are attached with screws; for this, they are screwed through the back panel into the installed dowels.

The internal box for electric machines is inserted into the niche and secured using solutions on gypsum base. Before fixing it, all wires should be threaded through the prepared holes. As soon as the cabinet is fixed, the installation of electrical appliances begins.

First, screw on the DIN rail and the electric meter, if its installation is provided. Then the grounding and grounding buses are installed. Circuit breakers, residual current devices (RCDs), differential circuit breakers and other protective equipment are placed on the rail. Installing them is easy thanks to a specially spring-loaded latch that firmly presses the electrical accessories to the DIN rail. As long as the mounting screw is not tightened, the installed device can be easily moved horizontally.

As soon as everything necessary devices will be placed, proceed to connecting the wires. To perform these steps without errors, it is convenient to use a pre-designed wiring plan. It is recommended to observe the color of the wires when making connections. So, a wire is connected to the zero bus of blue color, grounding is done in green, and brown is used as phase.

Models of electrical panels are not tied to manufacturers of modular elements; for example, a Hager electric machine can be installed in an ABB case without any problems. Therefore, their functionality is determined by ease of installation and protection class. Among the many products produced, some models are especially popular for installation in apartments. But if in industrial buildings The main criterion is reliability, then in apartments it is aesthetics.

For hidden installation It is recommended to purchase the Hager Cosmos VR118TD shield. Its door is made of transparent plastic; if desired, it can be easily removed from its hinges. Opening direction is up. The box is equipped with grounding and zero busbars made of brass. The degree of protection corresponds to IP 31. The number of installed modules is eighteen. This shield is beautiful appearance, ease of installation and low price.

If you need an external shield, you can purchase the VIKO LOTUS model. This inexpensive model will be especially relevant for residents of Khrushchev-era buildings. It allows you to accommodate twelve modules. The kit contains tires, all necessary fasteners and a DIN rail. White color The product and its darkened door are suitable for any interior.

Building a power supply system without using electrical panels is almost impossible. Their installation not only makes it convenient to turn on and off the power supply on certain lines, but also increases the safety of using the power network as a whole. At the same time, boxes for placing meters and electrical modules are different placements and they can be matched to any interior.