Make a light in the garage with your own hands. Legal registration of electricity in the garage! The main elements of the switchboard
The basic requirements that must be taken into account during electrical installation at almost any facility are described in the Electrical Installation Rules (PUE) in chapter 2.1 (wiring), as well as, on certain issues, in a number of other chapters. In this article, we will consider the basic requirements and typical diagrams, the knowledge of which is necessary in order to do the wiring in the garage with our own hands.
- How to lay electrical wiring in the garage?
Any electrical wiring begins with the choice of how it is laid. As a rule, to reduce costs, the wiring in the garage is performed openly. If the garage is made of cinder block, brick, iron, i.e. any non-combustible material, then laying can be done in almost any way, from laying in a corrugation to direct laying (for example, on brackets), but if the garage is made of wood or any other combustible material, this imposes much more restrictions on possible laying methods, in which case wiring is best done in a box (cable channel).
- What cable (wire) to use for wiring in the garage?
For wiring, it is necessary to use cables with aluminum (AVVG brands) or copper (VVG brands) conductors, while it is better to give preference to copper:
Use of PVS type flexible wires or ShVVP cords not allowed! They are used only for connecting mobile, portable and stationary electrical appliances to the network or for extension cords.
- What cable size should be used?
The cross section of the cables used for wiring is determined based on the power of the electrical appliances connected to them, knowing this power, you can calculate the cross section using ours. As a rule, cables with a cross section of 1.5 (or 2.5) mm 2 for copper, or 2.5 (or 4) mm 2 for aluminum are used for electrical wiring.
- What electrical safety requirements must be met?
Modern electrical safety requirements state that new buildings must have grounding (7.1.13. The power supply of electrical receivers must be carried out from a 380 / 220V network with a grounding system or), in domestic realities, it is implemented using the TN-CS system, where the neutral conductor is re-grounded at the input and divided into a working zero and a protective conductor (more on how to make grounding using the TN-CS system), so the cables must have a ground conductor, those. for electrical wiring, it is necessary to use three-core (for a single-phase network) or five-core (for a three-phase network) cables.
It is also worth considering that in the garage it is often necessary to use a carrier (portable lamp.) But in accordance with the requirements of the PUE the use of carriers for a voltage of 220 volts is prohibited, paragraph 6.1.17 says that to power portable lamps in rooms with increased danger and especially dangerous, a voltage of no higher than 50 V should be used, and if they are used in cramped conditions or the employee is in an uncomfortable room (and often the position of a car mechanic is such), then the voltage should not exceed 12V).
There are two ways to get such a voltage in the garage: by powering the carrier from a 12V car battery or from a step-down transformer. Of course, you can use the first step-down transformer that meets the requirements, but it is much more rational to purchase a complete box with a step-down transformer, a disconnecting circuit breaker and a socket, for example, YATP 0.25 220 / 12B (manufactured by different enterprises, one of the examples of the name for easy search on the Internet stores - IEC MTT12-012-250), its power is 250 VA, there are more powerful options, they are selected based on needs (number and power of lamps).
In addition, sockets in the 220 Volt network must have a grounding contact.
The required number and power of fixtures can be calculated using
wiring diagram
Consider a typical variant of wiring in a 220 volt garage. Any electrical wiring begins with an introductory switchgear (electrical switchboard) in short - ASU, in which protection devices (, etc.) and an electric meter (if necessary) will be installed in the future, while the ASU itself, as a rule, is best installed near the entrance to garage.
On the front or side panel of the ASU, or next to it, light switches for the main (ceiling) lighting and a block of sockets are installed. It is better to install local lighting switches directly near these lamps, that is, if you have an additional lamp installed above the workbench, then it is better to install the switch next to it. It is useful to install one or more outlets on the opposite wall, near the workbench (desktop), so as not to scatter extension cords throughout the garage.
It is not safe to lay 220V lines in the inspection pit and, based on the foregoing, this is completely prohibited. Therefore, it needs to be limited to 12V lamps, you can also place a 12V socket to connect a portable lamp or tool with a reduced power supply voltage.
If you have a compressor, a separate line is also laid to it.
Based on the foregoing, the arrangement of electrical equipment in the garage will look something like this:
NOTE: Distribution boxes are shown in gray, where wires of lines with a voltage of 220V are connected, and green - 12V.
Then the 220V wiring diagram (sockets, compressor, as well as working and ceiling lighting) in the garage will look like this:
The junction boxes are signed by numbers, you will see the diagrams of their wiring below. Having drawn up the wiring diagram, you should calculate the length of the lines for the purchase of the cable. The core cross-sections for lighting lines are usually chosen at 1.5 mm², and for sockets - 2.5 mm². The cross section of the cable cores for connecting the compressor is selected based on its power, 2.5 mm² is conventionally taken in the diagram (usually this is enough). You can calculate more accurately using our.
We also give the schematic connection diagrams separately for each cable in accordance with the wiring diagram compiled above:
Here you see the connection of a two-gang switch for controlling ceiling lighting and wiring to sockets. We considered this issue in more detail in, and if you want to control the light in the garage from several places, then it will be useful to you
The cable to the compressor is not shown in these diagrams - it goes directly from the shield.
Now consider the laying of networks at 12 volts. Using the example of a box with a step-down transformer of the YaTP type, its connection diagram will look like this:
NOTE: When choosing a cable for a 12 Volt network, it is also necessary to use our other calculator after it.
The wiring diagram for 12 volts will look like this:
It is rational to conduct wiring in the pit in a screed, laying PVC, HDPE or a metal pipe in advance.
Cable connection diagrams in junction boxes, according to the numbering, in the previous figure:
The second junction box is located in the inspection hole, it contains cables for powering all lamps and sockets for a portable light source
Electrical panel diagram
In conclusion, consider the layout and diagram of the garage electrical panel (ASU).
A garage without electricity is a pretty useless space. It is impossible to do anything in such a garage, because it is always dark in it, and there is nowhere to turn on tools. Generally speaking, electrical wiring is an important, serious and responsible thing, but not at all as complicated as it might seem at first glance. Everyone can conduct electricity in the garage!
And after you successfully cope with this task, you will never again think of hiring an electrician to lay electrical wiring.
Electricity in the garage: basic principles
What you need to know in order to independently master the electrical wiring in the garage? Firstly, it is important to understand that in order to connect a point (socket or light bulb), you need to bring two wires to it: phase and zero.
In addition, you will need some tools. Among them:
- sharp knife for stripping wire
- wire cutters
- a pair of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips)
- probe
Choosing a wire
Electrical cables are very different. This is dictated by the various areas of their application and they differ in many ways. However, in apartments and houses (as well as in garages) they usually use stranded copper wire.
It is important that the cable itself has two, and preferably three wires. One of them will become your "phase", the other - "zero", and the third - "ground". The cable marking indicates the number of cores and the cross section of each of them. For example, in a 2x0.75 cable there are two cores, each with a cross section of 0.75 mm2. Such a cable is quite enough for wiring under lighting.
Advice! Even if you currently do not have a ground, lay the wiring with the "ground". In this case, it will be relatively easy to make grounding in the future. But if you do the wiring with a two-wire wire, then in order to ground it later, you will have to completely redo it.
How to choose wire size
Here you can give calculations and arguments, but we will give simple practical advice. To connect the light bulbs, it makes no sense to pull a thick wire. As mentioned above, a 2x0.75 stranded copper wire is quite suitable for garage lighting. Such a wire can withstand up to 3kW.
For sockets, you need a wire more serious. In general, a 3x2.5 cable (or 2x2.5 without grounding) will suffice. This is enough for any household appliances and for most power tools. If you plan to regularly use a powerful tool (for example, welding), then it is better to conduct an additional line for this with a 3x4 wire and equip it with a separate machine.
Advice! When choosing a cable, also pay attention to the quality of the insulating material. The softer and more elastic the cable sheath, the easier and more convenient it is to work with. In this case, the insulation must be strong.
Getting started: we start electricity in the garage
Important! Before you do anything to the wiring, turn off the power at the panel (or unscrew the plug on the meter) and make sure that the section of the wiring you are working on is not energized.
What is the best way to connect to the home network and run an electric cable to the garage? If you have a switchboard installed in your house, then it is easiest and most reliable to connect to it.
Another option is the "twisting" of wires, which usually comes immediately after the meter. It is necessary to remove the insulation from each of the wires and, as reliably as possible, wrap the wires that will be pulled into the garage to the twist. After that, you need to insulate the junction again.
However, be careful. Often, electricity to personal plots is brought by an aluminum wire. It cannot be directly twisted with copper. Upon contact with copper, the surface of the aluminum wire oxidizes and begins to conduct current worse. The resistance increases, and the place of such a twist begins to heat up strongly. Aluminum wires with copper must be connected with special terminal blocks. They are sold in the electrical departments of building supermarkets and in small hardware stores where there are electrical goods.
As soon as you brought the wire into the garage, the first thing to do is put a shield with machine guns. This will greatly increase the security of your home electrical network and make it easier to troubleshoot if any.
The machine disconnects the load if the current flowing through the conductor significantly exceeds the rated current for which the machine is designed. By and large, this protects against short circuits and large overloads. For lighting, a 10 Amp machine will suffice. For outlets, it is worth putting the machine more powerful. For example, 25A.
Important! The machine has two terminals, but these are not “zero” and “phase”. An automaton is essentially a switch that automatically breaks the wire in the event of an overload. A phase enters into it, and the phase leaves it. The "zero" wire is not broken at the same time - it starts bypassing the machine.
Advice! The conductors in the cable are most often marked with different colors. From the very beginning, choose the color of phase, zero and ground for yourself and stick to this choice. This will not only facilitate and speed up installation, but also save you from mistakes.
Tire mounts are provided in modern shields. The tire is essentially a long metal plate with holes for fixing the conductors. Tires make mounting very easy. You simply start the phase, zero and ground (if provided) on your buses, and then connect each line to the bus, passing the phase through the appropriate machine. It looks like this:
When you conduct electricity in the garage, you should provide at least two machines. One for lighting and the other for outlets. If you wish, you can also separate into separate lines - equipping them with automatic machines - for a pump, street lighting, a socket for welding, a woodworking machine or other special equipment.
In the garage, it makes no sense to hide the wiring in the walls. Firstly, this will require hitting strobes in the walls, and this is a dusty and unpleasant job. And secondly, open wiring makes it easy to find and fix problems, and besides, if you suddenly need another outlet or want to run lighting in a neighboring barn, it will be much easier for you to do this. Secondly, the wires will be quieter upstairs. You won't damage them with furniture or tools.
Although strictly speaking, attaching wires directly to wooden structures is not correct and even fire hazardous. If you plan to turn on powerful devices or tools, then it is better to additionally hide the wires in a special plastic corrugation or cable channels.
If you have a pit in your garage and you want to run stationary lighting into it, then keep in mind: you can’t run 220 volts into it. The lighting in the pit must be low-voltage (from 12 to 36 volts) - this is required for safety reasons. Therefore, this is done through a step-down transformer.
At first glance, it may seem that all this is complicated, but as soon as you get down to business and connect your first outlet, you will realize that there is nothing difficult in doing the electrical wiring in the garage with your own hands - no!
It is not difficult to conduct electricity in the garage, and, having learned this simple work, you can independently make electrical wiring not only in the garage, but almost anywhere.
Carrying out official electricity and
preparation of a complete package of documents.
In garage cooperatives, connecting to electricity is very simple. You turn to the board of the cooperative with a request to connect to electricity, they give the number of a local electrician. We met, looked at what you need to buy, and literally within 2-3 days a brand new meter already flaunts in the garage and the light is on.
And if your garage is detached (not part of a cooperative) or the cooperative has collapsed long ago or there has never been a cooperative. How then to connect to the life-giving light? And without light in the garage is very bad. The garage seems dark, not pleasant, somehow cold, repulsive. Parking in the dark in the evenings is very inconvenient. All the time you shine your phone and a small flashlight on yourself, you can’t see anything, you cling to everything and you can’t find anything.
Of course, you can do the old fashioned way, agree with a local electrician, he will cheaply throw a wire on a pole and voila, there is light, or the previous owner “electrified” the garage before you.
Article 7.19 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation. Unauthorized connection and use of electrical, thermal energy, oil or gas.
Unauthorized connection to electric networks, entails the imposition of an administrative fine on citizens in the amount of 10,000 to 15,000 rubles; for officials - from 30,000 thousand to 80,000 thousand rubles or disqualification for a period of 1 to 2 years; for legal entities - from 100,000 to 200,000 rubles. (as amended by Federal Law No. 307-FZ of November 3, 2015)
What to do? Walk and shake that sooner or later they will come not only to cut off, but also to fine. And they will come sooner or later.
In such cases, it is worth considering the official connection to electrical networks.
First of all, you need to collect a package of documents to obtain technical specifications. Put them in the power grid. They accept documents three times a week for three hours, at not the most convenient time. As in any large state organization, there are queues and you can’t figure it out..
During the next working week after the submission of documents, an employee of the power grid will call you to inspect your garage, regarding the possibility of connecting to the power grid, where the nearest connection point is located. Usually they call during the daytime and offer to meet at the garage within one maximum of two hours! Often this is very inconvenient, especially with our endless traffic jams.
After an on-site inspection, the technical conditions for connecting your garage to the electrical network are prepared by an authorized employee. It often happens that a specialist preparing those. conditions thoroughly did not understand the situation and gives out not real technical conditions. (we had cases when they issued the conditions for conducting electricity to the garage, you need to build a 1.5 km line worth 1 million. When it was possible to connect it was 50 meters away or they wrote that it was necessary to lay 80 meters of cable underground, when it was possible to connect in 5 meters) in such cases, it is necessary to meet with employees, the management of the relevant departments of the RES and prove the illegality of such a decision.
After receiving adequate technical conditions, it is necessary to directly connect the garage to the electrical networks. Usually this connection is carried out by the installation team of electrical networks. The cost of their services, of course, is not cheap, on average from 15 to 25 tr., depending on the complexity and distance to the connection point (the price includes a cable, a meter, the necessary limiters and machines). Unfortunately, it is more expensive to refuse their services, because in addition to connecting, they issue a one-line diagram, a certificate of testing that everything complies with the requirements of the law. At the end of their work, the garage is already electrified, you can absolutely safely use electricity. From the submission of documents for connecting the garage to the networks, it takes from 1 to 2 months.
Next, you need to sign an agreement with the supplying organization, write an application for opening an account, open an account. The final stage of registration of electricity takes about 3-4 more months.
Since 2007, our Garage Agency has gained experience in conducting electricity to the garages of Rostov-on-Don. A number of non-standard tasks have been solved. Employees have extensive experience working with RES specialists,connections with each district branch have been accumulated.Turning to us you get a completerangeservices, from the initial application for technical specifications, the physical connection of the garage to the electrical network, ending with the issuance of your first receipt for the payment of your electricity bill.
Dial and get a FREE consultation. Find out how much official electricity will cost in your particular case.
The technology for creating electrical wiring in a garage differs from work in an apartment or a private house. However, it is not difficult to conduct electricity in the garage, but the help of a specialist may be required. The fact is that the supply of electricity from the pole to the shield must be carried out by a qualified electrician with a license to work with high voltage. Inside the garage, you can already cope with the task on your own.
Schema Design
Before starting installation work, you should create a wiring diagram in the garage. It must necessarily mark the place where the cable enters the building, as well as the location of the electrical panel, lamps and sockets. . When drawing up a diagram, several requirements must be followed:
Here is an example of a wiring diagram in a garage, which it will not be very difficult to create with your own hands:
Selection and calculation of materials
After completing the design of the circuit, you can begin to select the necessary materials. First of all, you should decide on the amount of cable. Since it is necessary to carry out not only internal, but also external wiring (from the pole to the building), the conductors must be selected for each type of work.
To extend the external line, use a cable with copper current-carrying conductors, the cross section of which is at least 10 mm 2. It is not advisable to use a conductor with aluminum conductors. This is due not only to the need to use a conductor with a larger cross section compared to copper wire, but also due to the low elasticity of aluminum. In such a situation, the risks of mechanical damage increase significantly.
To calculate the required amount of wire, you need to decide on all the electrical appliances that you plan to install in the garage. The total power of these devices should be multiplied by 1.2 to provide a power margin of 20%. To connect sockets, it is recommended to use conductors with a cross section of 4 mm 2, and 1.5 mm 2 will be enough for switches. It is also necessary to take the wire with a margin and in length. For each connection, it is recommended to increase the calculated length by 15 cm.
In the garage, most often it is enough to install 2 sockets and a switch. If there is no basement or viewing hole in the building, then you can limit yourself to one switch. Now many people are paying attention to LED lamps. They are more expensive than fluorescent, but are more economical. Most often, in the garage, wiring is carried out by an open method, and in such a situation, the number of cable channels or corrugations should be additionally calculated.
Installation steps
All work can be divided into three stages. Each of them has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account when working independently.
Preparatory work
Preliminary work consists in preparing the walls and cutting the conductors. It should be remembered that the markings on the surface of the walls must be applied in accordance with the previously developed scheme. To solve the problem, it is easiest to use a special cord.
It is installed at the starting point and fastened. After that, the cord, in a taut state, is pulled along the wall to the next wiring point, pulled to the side and lowered with a sharp movement. As a result, an imprint remains on the surface of the wall. At this stage, it is important to pull the cord strictly vertically or horizontally in accordance with the diagram.
When the wiring is carried out in a hidden way, then after marking it will be necessary to make strobes for the wires. If the garage is metal, then it is worth choosing an open electrical wiring. It should be remembered that the dimensions of the grooves should be 20x20 mm.
External wiring
It is advisable to entrust these works to a specialist. The easiest way to run the cable from the pole to the garage is by air. However, it should be remembered that when the distance from the post on the street to the building is more than 25 m, then one more additional support will have to be installed. In addition, there are several height requirements for overhead wiring:
- Above the carriageway - from 6 m.
- Above the footpaths - more than 3.75 m.
- Entering the building - at least 2.77 m.
If the first two requirements are met without problems, then this cannot be said about the last. The garage is a low building and there are a lot of problems when entering the cable through the roof. To avoid them, it is recommended to enter through a metal pipe, slightly curved at the top.
You can also conduct electricity from the pole using underground wiring. There shouldn't be any difficulty here. just need to make a trench, into which the armored conductor is then placed. An example of such a cable can be a cable marked VBbShv. However, this input method should be considered at the stage of garage construction and a hole for cable entry should be provided in the foundation.
To protect the conductor from mechanical damage, it is better to place it in a steel box. The only drawback of the underground laying method in comparison with the air one is its higher cost.
Inner lining
If the wiring is done in a hidden way, then the wires are laid in pre-made strobes, after which they are fastened with brackets or clamps. The next step will be the installation of junction boxes, as well as the installation of switches and sockets.
After that, it remains to connect all the wires and ring the finished wiring with a multimeter. It should also be recalled that wiring must be carried out exclusively with the help of pads. If after checking the wiring there were no problems, then the walls are plastered.
In an iron or wooden garage, wiring is easier to do in an open way. To do this, cable channels are installed on the walls, into which wires are laid. This method of wiring is extremely rarely used in residential areas, but is great for a garage.
Even a novice electrician can make wiring in the garage. Although this is a rather time-consuming process, it is not very difficult.
Today in the article we will deal with a rather complex topic - wiring in the garage. The topic is complicated in that today the garage is not only a haven for a car. This is almost a full-fledged workshop where they use different power tools. Therefore, we will talk about how to correctly create an efficiently working wiring diagram, what parameters to pay attention to when choosing materials, about the rules for the installation process.
Schema creation rules
The easiest way is if the garage is being built on a site to which a power line has already been connected, a separate switchboard is installed. It remains only to run the cable from the shield to the garage. If the latter is a building located far from the main house, then you will have to choose two connection options: from the house or a separate line from a pole located outside the territory of the summer cottage. The second option is more difficult because the air can be carried out by electricians who have access to this type of work. In addition, a separate switchboard will have to be installed in the garage.
Now, as for the wiring diagram in the garage (wires and cables). First of all, the entry point of the external power cable is determined, as well as the installation location of the shield. Then the locations of lamps and sockets are applied to the diagram. All this is connected by wiring lines. What are the requirements for all these elements:
Wiring lines inside the garage should only be laid in vertical or horizontal directions. No bias.
The transition from a horizontal section to a vertical one (and vice versa) is carried out only at a right angle.
Distance of horizontal sections from ceiling or floor, vertical from the corners of the building, window and door openings - 15 cm.
Also distance and to heating appliances (radiators, stoves, etc.).
Number of outlets at the rate of one per 6 m 2 or every 4 m.
Socket installation height- 60 cm from the floor surface.
Mounting height of switches- 1.5 m. They are mounted at a distance of at least 15 cm from the door jambs.
If the garage has a basement and a viewing hole, then they have sockets do not install. This also applies to light switches. These elements are mounted in the garage itself in a convenient place.
The optimal solution is a three-phase wiring diagram. In this case, one phase is connected only to lighting fixtures, the other two are scattered over sockets. If a three-phase connection is a problem, then use a single-phase (220 volts). For this option, you will have to accurately calculate the load on the cables and select their cross section correctly. This mainly applies to wires for sockets.
In this case, again, it is better to divide the circuit into two sections: for light bulbs and sockets. And for each loop, you will have to select a circuit breaker for power consumption and current strength.
How to correctly calculate the amount of materials required
After creating a circuit, you can easily count the number of sockets and switches. More difficult with cable. You will have to apply cable laying lines according to the scheme on the inner walls of the garage. After that, each section is measured with a tape measure and added to the total amount.
Please note that each loop will have its own wire section. Therefore, the length of each section is calculated separately. Do not forget about the external line: from the pole to the garage. Typically, a copper cable with a cross section of 10 mm 2 is used for this. It will be enough even if the garage is converted into a workshop.
As for the cross section of cables for lamps, a wire with a cross section of 1.0-1.5 mm 2 is suitable here. For sockets, it is necessary to calculate the power of the equipment and power tools that will be connected to them. To do this, the power of all devices is summed up, that is, the total power consumption is determined, regardless of whether the tools will be operated at the same time. The resulting value is increased by 20%. This is the so-called margin of safety. Now we need to turn to special tables, which show the dependence of power consumption and the cross section of the electric cable. The photo below shows one of these tables.
As practice shows, a cable with a cross section of 4 mm 2 is suitable for sockets. And this is the maximum value. For many power tools, 2.5 mm 2 will be sufficient.
If the installation of electrical wiring in the garage will be carried out in an open way, then you will have to calculate the number of fasteners and corrugations or cable channels. Of course, it is better to carry out hidden wiring with subsequent wall decoration. The wires will not be visible, which means they will not spoil the appearance of the premises. The only thing that needs to be done is to put the circuit in a safe place so as not to lose it in case you need to hammer a nail or screw a screw into one of the walls. In order not to damage the laid cable.
Stages of wiring installation
Stage three:
preparation;
installation outdoor area;
installation internal circuit.
Preparatory work
Mostly they are carried out inside the garage. The ongoing work relates to marking, creating places for installing sockets and switches, places for fixing lighting fixtures and laying wires. Marking does not cause problems. It must be transferred from the diagram to the walls of the garage using a ruler and a pencil. If the garage is large, then it is recommended to use a marking cord. Do not forget that all lines are applied only vertically or horizontally.
On our website you can find the most . In the filters, you can set the desired direction, the presence of gas, water, electricity and other communications.
Sockets for sockets, switches and distribution boxes are made with a diamond-cut puncher. Strobes in the walls with a special tool called a wall chaser. Although there are several ways to make strobes: from a simple one - a hammer with a chisel, to a more effective one - a puncher with a spatula-shaped nozzle. Although the wall chaser is both the speed of the operations carried out and the evenness of the cut channels. But a lot of dust.
The depth and width of the strobe depends on the diameter of the electrical wire. But, as practice shows, both dimensional parameters usually do not exceed 2 cm.
As for the wiring diagram for lighting in the garage. The cable in this case is pulled along the ceiling. If the ceiling is reinforced concrete slabs, then the cable is passed between them in the gap, which is subsequently covered with cement-sand mortar or ready-made plaster mixture. If the ceiling is one monolithic slab, then the cable is passed through the corrugation, which is attached to the ceiling with clamps on self-tapping screws.
Outdoor cable laying
There are two ways: air and underground. It is better to choose the first one, as the simplest and least time-consuming. There are some requirements that apply to this type of wiring:
If the cable has to be laid over the carriageway, then height laying should not be less than 6 m.
Above pedestrian zone not less than 3.75 m.
Entering the garage must be carried out at a height of at least 2.75 m.
If the distance from the power line pole to the garage is more than 25 m, you will have to install an additional intermediate support.
A few words about the third requirement. The garage is a low building, so this parameter is difficult to withstand. To solve the problem, proceed as follows - from a steel pipe with a diameter of 20-32 mm, make a stand in the form of a curved structure, as shown in the photo below. This device is attached to the roof of the garage or to the wall.
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer services for the construction of small architectural forms. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
If it is decided to carry out underground laying, then there are no serious requirements for it. The only important requirement is to use an armored cable marked with the letter “b”, for example, VBBSHV.
From the power line pole, they dig a trench towards the garage, where the cable product is laid. In order not to damage the laid electrical wire during any excavation work at the summer cottage, it is better to lay the cable in a steel or plastic pipe, the diameter of which should be two times larger than the diameter of the cable itself. The steel pipe must be waterproofed, for example, it is coated with bituminous mastic.
It is very important that melt or rain water does not get into the pipe, so a branch is made near the power line pole, the end of which is sealed. The outlet should protrude above the ground by at least 5 cm. If the distance from the power transmission line support to the garage is 0.6-0.8 m, then it is not necessary to lay the cable in the pipe.
On the opposite side, the pipe and cable lead into the garage itself. To do this, you must first leave a through hole in the foundation of the building. Usually a steel or plastic pipe is laid.
It should be noted that the underground method is a labor-intensive option, an armored cable is expensive, and an additional pipe has to be purchased. But, as practice shows, it is more durable than an air gasket.
Video description
The video shows how to lay the cable underground:
Internal wiring
The electrician in the garage, as in any other room or building, is carried out in two ways: hidden and open. The first is the installation of the cable in the strobes. The second - along the walls, but in special box-channels.
Hidden way
Installation of the cable begins with cutting it into pieces, the length of which is equal to the length of the loops, plus 10%. Then junction boxes are mounted. They are recessed into nests, where they are fixed with screws on plastic dowels or with gypsum mortar. Many use the combined option, although two screws are enough.
The cable is laid in strobes, where it is fixed with plastic clamps and self-tapping screws. Previously, alabaster was used for fastening. Many masters also use it today. But it is better to use modern fasteners.
An important point is the connection of the electrical wiring between the loops. The twists protected by electrical tape have gone into oblivion, instead of them, various types of terminal blocks are used today. First of all, this is a high security connection, the tightness of the wires adjoining each other.
So, the internal electrical wiring in the garage is almost finished. It remains only to seal the strobes with plaster, install sockets and switches and connect them to electrical wires.
outdoor method
If the garage is a wooden or metal structure, then electrical wiring can only be done in an open way. This will require special devices - the so-called cable channels. These are two-meter-long boxes, consisting of two parts: a base (box) and a lid.
The base is fixed with self-tapping screws along the marked lines of the wiring diagram, pre-cutting them along the length of each section. Their final laying point is sockets and switches. Intermediate element - unpacking boxes. All elements, as well as cable channels, are attached to the walls with self-tapping screws. They are not recessed into the thickness of the walls, so for this method of installing electricians, external sockets, switches and junction boxes will be required.
As soon as all electrical wires are laid and connected to the end points, the cable channels are closed with covers. The latter are attached to the base with latches located along the entire length of the device. Firstly, cable channels do not spoil the appearance of the garage walls. Secondly, it is always possible to easily remove the covers and check the condition of the electrical wiring. It is clear that it is also easier to repair or replace cables.
Video description
The video shows how to properly conduct electrical wiring in the garage using cable channels:
Switchboard installation
The situation when the garage is connected separately from the main house on a suburban area is rare. After all, it is necessary to install a separate switchboard in the garage, where the electricity meter is also mounted. The complexity of installing the shield and its connection is low. But all this equipment will have to be purchased, and this is an extra financial cost.
But if such a situation arose, then the shield itself is installed on the wall of the garage: either inside or outside. The second option is preferable, it is always possible to prevent inspectors from entering the garage. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping screws and plastic dowels. Installation height - 1.8 m. It is recommended to install a separate circuit breaker for each loop, and one common one for the input is mandatory.
Video description
The video shows how to properly install the switchboard in the garage:
Conclusion on the topic
As you can see, it will take a lot of effort and time to conduct electrical wiring in the garage. Do not take this event lightly. Electricity is no joke, even in something as small as a garage. Pay special attention to the area up to the outlet to which the welding machine or compressor will be connected. Both types of equipment are quite powerful, which means that they will have to select cable sections of great importance. It is better to pick up with a margin of at least 10%.
