How to make a manure pit out of bricks. DIY compost pit: manufacturing options, photos and useful tips

Compost can significantly improve the soil, regardless of its type. If it is clayey, it will become more crumbly, but if it is sandy, it will be better to retain moisture. But the price for it is quite high, there will also be costs for the delivery of compost to the site, so people began to make compost pits themselves to fertilize the soil, but at the same time save money. Any home accumulates a large amount of organic waste, so why throw it away if you can equip a hole, and this waste will benefit the soil. In the article, we will consider how to make a compost pit with your own hands in the country and how to properly operate it.

The size of the pit should be made based on the approximate amount of garbage that can accumulate in a year, and then it will rot for at least one year.
The process of removing humus and mixing it should not be difficult, so the height of the walls has its limitations.
The pit can be made both open and closed, one or two sections.

Weeds and their seeds should not get into the compost.
Worms should freely penetrate the contents of the compost pit.
It is necessary to equip a convenient approach so that there are no difficulties with the removal of humus.
You can put iron on the bottom, which will also benefit the compost over time.
The smell from the closed compost pit should not seep out.
The compost pit should not be located in direct sun.

Compost pit technology

How to make a simple compost pit

The device of a compost pit depends on its future purpose, if it is equipped simply for the release of organic waste, then it can be done according to the simplest scheme.

A hole is dug about 40-60 cm deep and 60-70 cm wide;
a layer of dry grass, straw is laid on the bottom;
after each ejection of waste, a layer of grass is again laid on the garbage. This is necessary so that the flies do not get divorced, and there is no bad smell;
What kind of hole should be made somewhere in a remote part of the site, but not near the neighbors' fences.

Do-it-yourself concreted compost pit

This is a more labor intensive building. It consists of two equal compartments, one of which is intended for old compost, and the second is used for regular replenishment. This design has a lid that lifts up when necessary to collect fertilizer or discard waste.
In order for the compost to turn out to be of high quality, it is better not to use weeds for its preparation, they can leave behind harmful seeds in the soil.
It is necessary to provide access to the closed earthworm composter, otherwise the compost will take much longer to mature.
In addition, it must be equipped in such a way that it looks like decoration on the site, has a neat appearance. But at the same time, ventilation must be present, so plant climbing plants with dense foliage is not recommended.

Stages of work

The process of building such a compost pit is quite laborious.

Needs to be completely leveled and removed. upper layer soil;
then a hole breaks out, about 60-80 cm deep. Optimal length is 3m, and the width is 2m;
then the formwork is built, and the walls are poured cement mortar or concrete, the thickness of which should be about ten centimeters.

Tip: for the proper construction of a compost pit closed type it is necessary to prepare a concrete solution, observing all the rules. It seems that there is nothing complicated in this, but in practice it often turns out the opposite. So that there are no problems, and then you do not have to spend a lot of time correcting errors, it is better to do everything right right away.

A concreted compost pit will have all the necessary properties for the timely processing of compost if the proportions of all the components from which the concrete is made for its base are exactly observed.

To create a solution, you will need:

river sand,
Gravel,
Cement,
Water.

Sequencing:

first, gravel should be poured into a twenty-liter bucket and shaken very well;
after that, water is slowly added using a measuring container. If this bucket contains ten liters of water, then the gravel component is 50%, and a ratio of two to one is required. This means that another 10 liters of river sand should be added to a twenty-liter bucket of gravel;

in such a solution should contain as much as possible less water to avoid future bubbles. If the composition has a high water content, then after it dries, a large number of voids form.

Tip: one more important point in preparing the mixture for the pit is that you need to mix the solution very carefully. This is probably even more important than the exact observance of all proportions, so it is recommended to do this with a concrete mixer, and not manually.

A closed-type compost pit can have one section, but it is better to immediately make it with a two-section one. In the second case, it is more convenient to use, especially if it is decided not to use drugs to increase the rate of compost maturation.

If the process of decay will take place naturally, it will take approximately two years. Then it is very convenient to use each section separately. The first year you can use one, and when the second year comes, throw away waste in the second part. As long as one compost reaches the desired state, another is used.

Do-it-yourself high compost heap construction

A wooden compost heap is easy to build even without experience in construction. At the same time, it can be made in such a way that it will not interfere with either the summer residents themselves or their neighbors.

Racks should be installed at the corners of the pit. The base for them is made of pipes, and the part that is above the ground can be made of a bar with a cross section of 10 cm;
One edge of each bar is sharpened to fit the pipes. It is first recommended to soak all the wooden parts of the structure in a special solution so that they do not succumb to the processes of decomposition and decay;
Next, the bars are driven into the cut pipes and transverse boards are stuffed onto their above-ground part, which will serve as the walls of the pit;

fastening boards is best done with self-tapping screws or metal corners, which will provide a more reliable grip;
finished walls are covered with paint, preferably acrylic.

Of the nuances in this work, it is necessary to take into account:

the diameter of the pipes must fit the size of the bars;
the height of the walls usually does not exceed a meter, this is due to the fact that large and tall structures ultimately turn out to be inconvenient to use, as it makes it difficult to dig and extract compost;
the simplest version of a removable cover is a regular sheet of plywood that is attached to back wall loop designs. The compost matures best when the lid is closed, but you still need to open it occasionally to ventilate the fertilizer.

What is suitable for composting and what cannot be put in a pit

So that the fertilizer can ripen in time and at the same time not lose its beneficial features for soil, you should know exactly what is suitable for a compost pit.

You can put:

raw vegetables, fruits, berries, cereals, straw, grass, hay, ash, foliage, needles, bark, twigs, plant roots, sawdust, shredded paper, herbivore manure.

You cannot put:

bones, carnivorous pet dung, potato and tomato leaves, any greens that have been treated with pesticides, weed seeds, any synthetic waste, and leaves from infected plants.

Proper compost bin

In order for compost to form successfully, it needs certain conditions:

moisture;
warmly;
oxygen.

To create a greenhouse effect, the still unripe compost must be watered (especially in hot and dry summers), and if necessary, covered with a film. For a good reaction, oxygen is also needed, its access is provided by loosening the waste with a pitchfork.

If it is not possible to equip a pit, water it, and so on, then you can simply put organic waste in one place, where compost will form over time. It is certainly not the most The best way from the point of view of aesthetics, but it has a right to exist.

In order for such a heap to be equal in functionality to a compost pit, special preparations must be added to it.
You will also need to periodically cover with dark material to speed up the compost ripening process. In a covered pit, compost will be processed within 3-4 months, but if you keep it open, the process will take about six months to a year.
It is impossible to put polyethylene at the base of the heap, which will block the free access of water and oxygen. If the ground under the compost is covered synthetic material, then the moisture from the heap will evaporate very quickly, but it will not be able to rise from the ground.
When laying out the contents for the compost in a pile, it is recommended, if possible, to alternate manure, grass, waste and earth. During the intense heat, you need to water the heap in order to right amount moisture and composting processes were not disturbed.
It is convenient to make two piles side by side or one large one, but on two sides, this is a simplified version of a two-section box. When the compost is ready on one side and can be regularly laid out on beds, waste is thrown out on the other side of the pile.
When the compost pile reaches a size of about one meter in height, it is advisable to use fertilizers. To do this, several deep holes are made and the solution is poured into them. AT warm time years to replace them, you can add Californian worms.

The correct location of the compost pit

Before you equip a compost pit in the country, you need to choose the right site for it:

From sources drinking water(wells, wells, etc.) the pit should be located at a distance of at least twenty-five meters;
If the site is located on a slope, then the pit is equipped below the source of drinking water, this is necessary so that the rotting runoff through the soil could not get into clean water;
It is necessary to take into account the most frequent direction of the wind in order not to cause significant inconvenience to the neighbors, especially if the pit is not covered with a lid and exudes strong unpleasant odors;
There should always be free access to the pit, which will provide convenient removal of garbage using buckets or removal of humus using a wheelbarrow.

The compost pit is made as far as possible from residential buildings. It should be in partial shade, since under the sun's rays all processes occurring in it will slow down.
The site for the location of such a pit must be flat.
Do not allow water to stagnate in it - this will interfere with the access of oxygen.

Plastic compost bins

This method is good for those who can allocate funds for its purchase and want the appearance of their site to be more presentable. It installs absolutely anywhere. But you will have to take into account the presence of an unpleasant odor, because you will need to regularly open the lid to ventilate the contents of the container.
The constant access of oxygen to the compost is provided by special holes, which are also necessary so that excess moisture does not stagnate.
Feature of using plastic container for compost heap is that it is necessary to use special preparations to speed up the composting process. Earthworms can provide a replacement for drugs if they are specially planted in this container.

To save money and for the benefit of the site, a compost pit is great solution for fertilizer. It is very simple to equip and operate it, you just need to know a few rules. But at the same time, you will always have ready-made fertilizer for the soil on the site.

Photo of a compost pit

A compost pit is conventionally called a structure in which compost matures. It is a decay product of organic waste, considered one of the the best options fertilizers. The introduction of compost not only improves the fertility of the soil, but also has a beneficial effect on its structure. Sandy soil thanks to it retains moisture better, and clay soil becomes looser, which allows the earth to pass air and water.

The principle of "work" of the compost heap is very simple. Organic waste is put into it and created for them optimal conditions for decomposition, which results in compost. For waste to decompose, it is necessary to provide it necessary quantity oxygen and moisture. Therefore, the design of the pit must ensure ventilation of the mass laid in it. In addition, 3-4 times during the summer, the compost is shaken up and regularly spilled with water.

The compost substrate in natural conditions matures for two years. If you want to get it faster, add special bacteria that significantly speed up the decomposition process. You need to know what can be put in the compost pit and what not. An exemplary set is presented in the table.

Choosing a place for building

The best place for arranging a compost heap - a shaded area near a fence or wall of an outbuilding. If the sun's rays fall directly on the pit, the decomposition process will slow down or stop altogether. Another point to consider is the periodic appearance of a specific smell, so it is advisable to place the structure away from places where people appear.

The compost pit should be equipped taking into account the height of the groundwater rise. The substrate must not come into contact with them. In addition, you need to take care of. So, if there is a reservoir nearby or, there should be a distance of at least 25-30 m between them. At the same time, the slope of the soil should be such that after rains the water does not flow from the pit to the drinking source.

Setting up a compost bin

Two types of structures are used to obtain compost. It can be a pit or a special box. Let's take a closer look at both options.

Building a compost pit

Before starting work, it is worth deciding on its depth. You can make it small, then the contents of the pile will be easy to mix and the substrate will be ready faster. A deep pit is good because it completely hides the raw material. At the same time, it is more difficult to establish ventilation here. The optimal depth is 40-50 cm. The arrangement of the pit is carried out in the following sequence:

Digging a hole of the right size.
Settles down wooden box. To do this, at a distance of 20 cm from the walls, pegs are driven into the bottom at the corners, boards are nailed to them at some distance from each other.
The resulting box is divided into two halves using a wooden shield.
A drainage layer 10-15 cm high is laid at the bottom of the structure. This can be bark or tree branches, straw, spruce branches, etc.

Now you can stack the waste. Only one half is filled with raw materials. So it will be possible to regularly shift the compost mixture from one part of the pit to another in order to ventilate.

Arranging a compost bin

Such a design can be built with your own hands or purchased ready-made in the store. In the latter case, it will be a voluminous high plastic box, which will only have to be installed in the right place.

For self assembly wood is usually used. A frame is constructed from the bars, on which planks are stuffed at a small distance from each other. This is necessary to ventilate the decaying mass.

Be sure to make one wall removable or provide a lid - it will be convenient to mix the contents of the box if necessary. Alternatively, one of the walls can be equipped with a tightly closing door. For ease of maintenance, such a box is installed on concrete base. You can simply tamp the ground well and lay any solid material on it. Before filling the raw materials, drainage is laid at the bottom of the box, the same as in the compost pit.

To obtain good fertilizer, you need to fill the pit or box in compliance with some rules. The most important thing is to alternate the "brown" and "green" layers and make sure that their volume is approximately the same. Experienced gardeners understand dry waste as brown raw materials, fresh grass as green raw materials, etc. By alternating soft and hard masses, you will be able to avoid excessive compaction.

A well-organized compost pit will provide excellent fertilizer and help to utilize organic waste in a beneficial way.

The process of creating a compost pit is clearly shown in this video.

Well-fertilized land always pleases with a plentiful harvest of vegetables and fruits. In order to get top dressing for the soil, it is not necessary to buy chemical fertilizers. To do this, a do-it-yourself compost pit can be built on the site. Manufacturing options are different, and it is easy to choose the one that is most suitable for materials, their cost and the size of the site.

Compost is organic fertilizer obtained from plant waste or the waste products of some animals. This is the result of biodegradation of materials under the influence of various microorganisms.

When composting in the waste layer, substances are formed that are necessary for feeding plants - nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and other elements, microflora dangerous to health is neutralized. Composts are for everyone horticultural crops, contribute in a couple, in the wells. Such fertilizer is not inferior to manure in terms of efficiency.

Attention! Not to be confused compost pit with cesspool. The second is the simplest autonomous sewerage. Fertilizer will not work from these drains. The only thing that can be achieved soil pollution.

Many refuse to build a compost pit on their site due to the fact that they are afraid of an unpleasant smell and an unaesthetic appearance. If you choose the right place, then the design will not create discomfort for the residents of this and neighboring areas.

Find out how, and also get acquainted with the scheme, options and best ideas, in a special article on our portal.

When choosing a place, pay attention to which direction the water flows during the rains. If a well is located on the site, then the flows should not be directed in that direction. Otherwise, the water will become contaminated, lose its taste, or even become completely unusable.

The direction of the wind, which is most often observed in this area, should also be taken into account. Then the smell will be minimally distributed throughout the site. Do not forget about the interests of neighbors.

There should be partial shade in the chosen place. If the site is under the sun, then the compost mass dries up, the decay process slows down.

Near the compost pit should not be fruit, coniferous or evergreen trees, shrubs. When the waste rots, aggressive substances are released. This can harm vegetation, in particular, their root system. But if birch or alder grows on the site, then such a neighborhood will not harm. Lush crowns cover the structure from the scorching midday sun.

Table 1. Distance from the compost pit to other elements.

Attention! The pit is located on the site lower than the well. Also take into account the level of groundwater so that they do not flood the compost tanks.

Although SNiP indicates the minimum required distance to the well 8 m, some owners decide to play it safe, and leave a distance between objects 25–30 m.

What foods can and cannot be thrown into the compost pit

Not all waste is allowed to be composted. into the pit allowed throw:

raw fruits, tea leaves and coffee grounds, cereals, peelings;
straw, fresh and dry grass, leaves, needles;
parts of trees and shrubs - they are pre-crushed, unpainted waste from woodworking;
wood ash;
paper products;
second year herbivore dung.

Forbidden use for composting:

All products are divided into green and brown. The former are the source nitrogen, the latter saturate the soil carbon. The ratio of nitrogen to carbon is considered optimal at proportions 25 to 1. A mass of leaves and freshly cut grass, taken in half, is thrown into the pit. They will give you the best chemical composition mixture.

Compost pit design

Compost pits are made from different materials. Usually use what is at hand. Standard size pits - 1500x3000 mm, height - from 1200 mm. The structure can be made large if there is a lot of waste.

The whole space is divided into three compartments:

for fresh waste;
for last year's waste;
for finished compost.

But variations are possible. So, if you achieve rapid maturation of the fertilizer, then one tank will be enough. For example, for this, for 1 part of green waste they take 25 brown, be sure to put manure. The total volume of the heap must be at least 1 cubic meter, otherwise the temperature inside will not warm up to the desired values (in different sources it is called 45-60 °С).

Attention! The larger the pit, the better the temperature necessary for the activity of microorganisms is maintained in it.

Compost pit "for the lazy" - the easiest option

In this case, no building materials, tool only - shovel.

Prices for bayonet shovels

bayonet shovel

In the ground, they dig a trench of the above dimensions with a depth 0.5 m Sand is poured at the bottom. It performs the function of drainage to remove excess moisture from the pit. Cut branches are laid on the sand. This layer is responsible for aeration - enrichment with oxygen.

Then stack the waste in this order:

grass;
dry leaves;
sawdust;
table waste;
manure;
weeds.

Peat is poured between the layers, watered.

Attention! To activate the process of decay, large waste is pre-crushed.

Total heap height - 150 cm, of which 100 cm rises above the surface of the earth. Covering material or sheets of slate are placed on top. In the summer, when it is too dry, the waste is watered with clean water.

Slate compost pit - a more efficient scheme

Such a tank can be made in just 1 day and it will last for many years. The main advantages of building material:

cheapness- you can use the old roofing that has become unusable;
durability- asbestos-cement slabs serve up to 40 years;
ease of installation.

Such a compost pit consists of slate sheets attached to a wooden frame.

Materials that will be required for it:

circular saw, grinder, screwdriver;
tape measure, marking pencil;
level;
slate;
boards for the frame;
self-tapping screws;
doorknobs, loops - for a cover;
paint or varnish with antifungal properties, which are processed inner sides walls of the future pit.

Step-by-step instructions for making a slate compost pit

Step 1. Cut sheets of slate with a cutting tool.

Prices for angle grinders (grinders)

Angle grinders (grinders)

Step 2 They dig grooves for slate along the perimeter of the future pit.

Step 3 Cover the side of the slate, which will be facing the inside of the structure, with paint.

Step 4 Slate sheets are installed in the dug recesses, sprinkled with earth.

Step 5 A frame is made of boards along the outer or inner perimeter of the structure.

Step 6 Knock down covers for compartments from boards, screw door handles. Attach door hinges and install covers. The compost pit is ready.

Such a tank can be hidden underground. Then, at the initial stage, they dig a hole of the required depth. Sheets sheathe the walls of the recess, tie them wooden blocks with outside. The slate should protrude above the ground by 10-15 cm. The bars are covered with protective compounds.

Composter from metal corrugated board

The compost bin is also made of profiled sheet (corrugated sheet). This facing material, which is used for wall and roof decoration. It is better to take sheets with an anti-corrosion coating that protects the material from damage during the operation of the structure. Usually it is acrylic, polyester, PVC, other materials.

Assembly is carried out in the following sequence:

From wooden or metal bars assemble the frame of the desired size. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the sheet. It is undesirable to cut them without extreme necessity, so as not to destroy protective covering. The frame is made into as many sections as there should be in the composter.
self-tapping screws attach profile sheets to the frame.
Make the top shield of plywood or boards. If you are too lazy to make a lid, then you can cover the container with sheets of the same corrugated board.

The disadvantage of the design is that it has drum effect. So it will be noisy when it rains. However, as the tank fills, the volume will decrease. In addition, the metal under the sun is very hot. The polymer coating can be damaged over time, due to which corrosion centers are formed. Therefore, the structure must be regularly inspected.

Video - Do-it-yourself composter

Compost tank from a metal or plastic barrel - step by step instructions

The advantages of a compost tank from a barrel of this design:

simple materials that are either at hand or easy to get;
this design is convenient in that the barrel is simply removed from the pit thanks to the roller mechanism;
will make such a design any House master who speaks Bulgarian;
minimal inconvenience due to an unpleasant smell in the area;
the barrel will not spoil the appearance of the site;
compost is protected from wind, excess moisture, and other adverse factors.

For the manufacture of fixtures, you will need a barrel - metal or plastic, with a volume 50 liters or more.

To prepare such a compost tank, in addition to the tank, you will need:

plywood 6 mm;
wooden bars 5x10 cm(footage depends on the size of the barrel)
4 roller;
fasteners - screws, nails.

A pit from a barrel is built in the following sequence:

Step 1. From plywood using a jigsaw or other carpentry tool cut out the lid for the container. Its diameter should be slightly larger than the diameter of the neck of the container.

Step 2. Cut 4 identical bars 10–12 cm long. Coal or other coloring agent wipe the edge of the barrel. Attach the lid with the side facing the inside of the tank. A square is drawn in the resulting circle. At the tops of the figure, pieces of bars are nailed. This is necessary so that the lid closes tightly.

Step 3. Make a rectangular frame from wooden blocks. Its length is slightly greater than the height of the reservoir, and its width is three-quarters of its diameter.

Step 4. Attach 2 rollers on each long side of the rectangle. Fix them with screws.

Step 5 On the short side of the frame, where the bottom of the tank will be, attach the beam. This is a retaining stop that will not allow the barrel to move down. The beam must be in the same plane as the wheels.

Step 6. Install the hook on the outside of the barrel, and fastened on opposite sides of the loop, two rubber bands holding the lid.

A hole is dug in the area to a depth of 10-15 cm smaller than the height of the tank. The frame is first immersed in the pit, and then the tank.

Attention! To make the frame last longer, it can be treated with various impregnations against fungus and rot, and then painted - for example, with enamels. So the wood will be reliably protected from adverse factors.

Concrete pit for composting

A more durable way to get a place to produce humus on your own yard is to build a concrete compost pit. This design will last for decades.

The construction process is simple, and consists of the following steps:

Dig a hole with the following dimensions: width - 200 cm, length - 300 cm, depth - 80 cm
around the perimeter make formwork over the entire height, also providing for a transverse jumper (two possible), which will divide the space into separate tanks.
Preparing concrete: cement-sand mixture ( 3 to 1) - 5 kg, water - 5 l.
The concrete mixture is poured into the formwork.
They knock down the frame from the boards. A chain-link mesh is pulled from above - this will be a cover for the structure.

Learn how to make concrete rings in a special article on our portal.

Steel mesh compost bin

For the manufacture of a basket, they take a metal one, preferably with polymer coated, grid. The advantage of this design is that the compost is well ventilated and does not rot.

For the manufacture of the structure, the following materials will be required:

protective mesh for fences;
film or garden textiles (you can use a large trash bag);
wire to connect the ends of the mesh.

The mesh is cut so that a cylinder of the desired diameter is obtained, and added 20 cm stitching allowance. The same amount of garden textiles will be required. It is placed inside the basket. The edges are turned over the upper edge of the cylinder wall and secured with paper clips.

This is a fairly lightweight design that is assembled in a few minutes and dismantled just as quickly. To give stability to the basket, it can be strengthened along the outer edge with wooden posts dug on 10-15 cm into the ground.

What other composter equipment options are there?

A compact composter can be made from boards. For budget option discarded ones will come in handy wooden pallets, previously disassembled into parts.

The peculiarity of this design is that fresh and mature compost is stored in one tank. Due to the fact that there is a hole with a lifting wall at the bottom of the structure, it is easy and convenient to get ready-made fertilizer. Another convenience is that there is no need to mix the substrate inside the box. Even a schoolboy can knock down such a box.

Attention! wooden elements covered with impregnations, as in the case of a frame for a compost barrel.

If you can’t make it yourself, then you can install a regular special plastic container on the site. They are available in capacities from 400 to 1000 l, which allows you to choose the most suitable option according to your needs. However, their price can be quite high - up to 10 thousand rubles. It is for this reason that many owners summer cottages prefer homemade from improvised materials.

Prices for a plastic compost bin

Punch

A more durable option is to use precast concrete rings. Previously, a recess is dug in the area along the diameter of the structure. Then a ring is installed and partially buried in the ground. A shield knocked down from boards is used as a cover. You can get by with the usual covering material.

However, a concrete ring composter has one drawback: it does not have a low wall that would allow convenient loading of waste or compost. Therefore, for such operations they climb inside the structure.

Video - Do-it-yourself concrete ring for a composter

How to care for a compost pit

In order to be able to prepare high-quality fertilizer, the compost pit should be properly looked after.

Periodically, the waste is watered. This will ensure the correct rotting process. The pile should be moist but not wet. Excess moisture for bacteria is no less dangerous than lack.

Once a month, the pile is stirred to ensure oxygen access. This contributes to the burning of products. If it is not possible to dig up the waste, they are carefully pierced with a pitchfork.

Owners of summer cottages and household plots should not abandon the compost pit. This is not only an opportunity to get affordable fertilizers, but also respect for the environment. After all, burning dry grass and leaves harms nature. The law provides for a fine for such actions. A compost pit solves the problem of waste disposal and disposal.

Not everyone is attracted by the idea of self-preparation of fertilizers at their summer cottage. The main reason is the misunderstanding of the role of compost. Some people are also embarrassed by the smells that accompany the process of “ripening” of the mass. This article will introduce the rules for the production of one of the best organic fertilizers and existing technologies for building a bunker, as well as what needs to be done to eliminate the manifestations of unpleasant "side effects".

The problem of waste disposal is partially solved.
Compost not only feeds the soil, but, unlike many other means (preparations), retains moisture in it.
There is no need to allocate a segment for the storage of imported manure, which is one of the most used fertilizers on summer cottages. The hole does not require much space.
Unlike the same manure, compost eliminates the risk of soil contamination (for example, potato scab), and there are no pest larvae in it.
Minimum financial costs for the preparation of effective organic fertilizer.

Calculation of the required amount of compost

Fertilizer is prepared at the dacha in such a volume as to satisfy the needs for fertilizing the soil on your site. Therefore, no matter how good the compost is, no one needs its surplus. Inexperienced gardeners mistakenly believe that the more fertilizer is applied to the soil, the higher the crop yield will be. At the same time, such an aspect as the balance of the ecosystem is forgotten, which also implies the optimal combination of various chemical elements in the ground.

What the violation of this rule leads to is a separate issue. Suffice it to point out that in a number of cases, with an excess of certain fertilizers, the plant develops intensively, but in the "green", and its fruits do not reach the optimal size.

It makes no sense to give formulas and examples of calculations. The dimensions of most summer cottages lie within the limits of only 5 - 7 acres, no more. If we take away the sectors occupied by various outbuildings (house, shed), paths and engineering structures(septic tank, swimming pool), then the usable area is even less. As a rule, within 3.5 - 4.5. To feed such a summer cottage, a 1.5 - 2 "square" compost pit is quite enough (at a depth of about one and a half meters).

The word "depth" should not be literally deciphered. It is desirable that the compost pit rises above the ground. Therefore, it is more correct to talk about the height of the structure. Deepening will only complicate the work, since you have to think about high-quality waterproofing the entire "bottom". Especially if ground water get close enough to the surface.

Location selection

Option number 3

A full-fledged pit is being equipped, the bottom and walls of which are poured concrete mortar. Making formwork is easy. The only plus is that such a compost pit is not striking, as it is located in the ground. The disadvantages are noted in relation to the brick structure.

And these options are not the only ones. For the competent arrangement of the compost pit, it is necessary to correctly determine its dimensions and ensure the strength of the walls of the bunker. And what to build them from is a personal matter of the owner of the cottage. For example, dig metal pipes(in the corners) and fit them with a fine mesh. The only difficulty is in creating the greenhouse effect. You will have to tightly cover the entire bunker - not only from above, but also from the sides.

What can be used as raw material for compost

Naturally, necessarily organic. But there are so many of them in any dacha that there will be no problems with finding raw materials for compost.

Everything related to the concept of "wood and its waste" - sawdust, small chips, needles, chopped bark, leaves and branches. Here you can also add dried grass, straw.
Fruits - cereals, fruits, berries. Naturally, it is necessary to reject those that have traces of lesions (worm, scab, and so on).
Coffee grounds (leftovers), old tea leaves. When accumulated, they are not thrown away, but sent to the compost pit.
Shredded fractions of paper products - cardboard, napkins, newspapers and so on.
Pieces of fabrics, but only natural ones - linen, cotton, silk, wool.
Wood ash.
Manure. But definitely last year, not fresh!

What should not be loaded into a compost pit

Tops (tomato, potato).
Carcasses of dead rodents, domestic animals, birds.
Ash coal.
Glass, porcelain.
Bones.
Weed roots.
Excrement of pets (cats, dogs).

For high quality compost experienced gardeners recommend running earthworms into the bunker. Well, finding them, especially if there is a farm near the dacha, will not be a problem. As an option - dig in a nearby landing. You don't need a lot - good conditions they multiply rapidly. By the way, summer residents-fishermen do just that. For them, the problem of finding worms does not exist.

Whichever option is chosen, you need to know that the finished compost is always located at the bottom of the bin. How to get it? You will need a "window" (door). Therefore, a concrete bunker is not an entirely acceptable solution, and the compost in it is prepared immediately, in full. The remaining options involve the systematic unloading of a certain amount. This means that it is possible to organize a cyclic process of its preparation, which is much more convenient, since we are talking specifically about the dacha, and not massive agricultural / land.

The author believes that there are plenty of recommendations on how to make a compost pit. There is nothing difficult in this. But just installing a hopper is not the solution to the fertilizer problem. He needs some care. But this is a somewhat different topic.

Good luck building your compost pit, dear reader! And do not be afraid to "invent", since there is no hard standard for such a structure.

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If the site has poor soil, then a container is built to create humus, which is an important part of any garden plot. The use of top dressing in the form of compost allows you to grow environmentally friendly vegetable and vegetable crops. Recommendations from experienced gardeners will help you understand how a compost pit is created with your own hands, manufacturing options, photos and installation features of which can be considered in detail below.

Tanks can contain several compartments, which increases their performance

A compost pit is easily created with your own hands. In this case, manufacturing options can be seen in the photo. Simple products can be made from pallets, which are taken after the sale of building materials and purchased for a small amount.

It is important to choose the right location. It should be far from home. It should be a well-ventilated area. This will prevent bad odors. Containers from improvised materials are distinguished by high availability. Finished construction allows you to dispose of weeds from the site.

Helpful information! The vegetation is compacted over time and, under the influence of bacteria and humidity, is converted into an excellent organic fertilizer. Great for processing different cultures in a vegetable garden or garden.

What is the purpose of the pit?

An excellent method of recycling various garbage is a do-it-yourself compost pit. Manufacturing options, photos and drawings can be found in sufficient quantities on the Internet. This facility allows you to get high-quality fertilizers in the shortest possible time. In this case, cut grass, leaves and manure are used.

How to make a compost pit with your own hands: video and installation requirements

Many gardeners and summer residents are interested in the question: how to make compost pits correctly. Tanks are constructed from three parts. In this case, 8 columns are installed, which are treated with a protective solution. It can be fuel oil, engine oil and tar.

For one of the sides it is recommended to use a fence cloth. Partitions are made of boards in which holes for ventilation should be left. Doors are installed on all compartments. At the end of the work, you need to install handles and latches.

An important point is the installation of ventilation holes. Also, the container must be closed during precipitation with a special lid. For this, ordinary polyethylene film can be used.

You can make a product from pallets. To do this, they need to be disassembled. With the help of the board they are divided into separate blanks. All boards are fastened vertically. In this case, the front board is attached with an adhesive solution.

In order for the pallet product to remain stable, it is necessary to trim the planks at the bottom using a level.compost pit for Finnish technology different from standard pits. She has several distinctive features. Filling must begin from the first compartment. When extracting humus, the container is filled from the adjacent compartment.

All processed material must be stirred periodically. Also, the container should maintain an optimal level of humidity.

Installation of such a structure consists of the following steps:

wood planks are treated with a special compound;

side walls are being assembled;
the walls are sheathed with boards, two walls are made with gaps and two of tightly standing boards;

boards for the back side are attached;

the bottom is made;
cover is mounted;

lower doors are installed.

Helpful information! The wood from which the pit is made must be impregnated with a special solution. This will prevent damage from high humidity, harmful insects and decay processes.

DIY compost pit: manufacturing options, photos and nuances

There are many ways to make compost pits in the country. It is worth choosing a type of structure that meets the requirements of a particular area.

The most famous methods are used:

building a hole in a certain place. The pit should look like a well, but be smaller. At the same time, the walls of the pit are additionally strengthened and sheathed, but only at a height of 20-25 cm from the bottom, so that microorganisms easily penetrate inside;

container is mounted on garden plot. This allows you to get the compost mixture at any time. Formwork is at the base of the pit. In this case, a plastic tank or a box of boards is used; It is important to install ventilation holes;

most in a simple way considered the creation of a compost heap. This creates a substrate of sand, dried grass and gravel. Waste is laid on top, which must be recycled.

There are many options for creating such a structure. They differ not only in materials, but also in the properties of the tank and dimensions.

Helpful information! Before laying plant materials in the structure, you need to carefully loosen the bottom and install air vent. After rains, the pit can be covered with polyethylene to speed up the work of microorganisms.

How is a compost pit made from slate in a country house?

The advice of the masters will help you decide how to make a compost pit in the country from slate in order to get a reliable and durable construction.

Slate canvases will be an excellent basis for the walls of the box. The construction is carried out in several stages:

suitable dimensions are determined;

after choosing a site for the location of the structure, you need to make a small indentation;
supports made of pipes or boards are mounted in all corners;

with the help of slate sheets, a pit is mounted;
a partition is installed in the box, which divides the space into two parts.