Hello readers of this site. Today I will tell you how I made a convenient box for transporting a welding machine from a plastic canister.

Most of the time I live in a city apartment. In the basement under the nine-story building, I have a workshop, where I do my hobby - homemade products. There I can do everything except welding - firstly, there is a 10-ampere automatic machine installed in the electrical panel, which can knock out when the electrode sticks (And the electrician has the key to the shield). Secondly - fire safety! And thirdly (and most importantly) ventilation there does not allow welding.

And therefore, in order to perform welding work, I go to the dacha, or to a private house. And since I'm always running out of time, most often, after work, I jump into the basement, grab everything I need, and go ....

I use this welding inverter "Gerard-MMA200".

He has served me faithfully for many years. I kept it in my "native" box. But the trouble with all factory packaging, as you know, is that once you take out its contents, it is almost impossible to put everything back in!)))). Fortunately, a "souvenir" welder's shield was supplied with the device! Without it, the device easily fit .... But only he!

And so, I arrived at the cottage. I lay out the tool in anticipation of interesting work ....
...... And then it turns out that I forgot the mask!!!...

Another time I took both the mask and welding .... but forgot the electrodes ...
The next time - I took everything except cutting wheels ...))))).

These are the events that gave rise to the idea in me to make a kind of box, where the whole set would fit - a welding machine, a mask, wires, electrodes, clamps, a hammer .... In short, to grab one box, throw it into the car - and not forget anything!) ))))

And I began to think of what I could make such a thing! My choice fell on just such a 30-liter canister, of which I have quite a lot:

Having estimated, I came to the conclusion that such a volume is exactly what I need. (To be honest, it was not this canister that went under the knife. I just forgot to take a picture of the one I cut.))))

As a result, I got a box, which you can see in this video (it was filmed "crookedly, but, I'm sorry):

And now I will tell you in detail how I did it.

I needed:
1. Plastic canister 30 l.
2. Blind rivets with a diameter of 4.8 mm of different lengths.
3. Loops 2 pcs.
4. Chest latches 2 pcs.
5. Strips of tin.
6. PVC pipe cuttings.
7. A piece of linoleum.
6. Washers M5 enlarged.

So, let's begin...
At first I wanted to do a horizontal layout. But, on reflection, I came to the conclusion that, firstly, I will significantly lose in the rigidity of the structure, and secondly, I’m still going to wear it by the handle (i.e., vertically), and therefore, it will be better if the instrument is laid will be made in the same position.

So I took the canister and cut off the top of it:

I had such scraps of tin.

These are just strips with a folded edge. Remained from something, I don't remember. If necessary, they could be easily cut and bent.

I took a narrower strip and riveted the edge of the cut off upper part with it, using a regular riveter and pop rivets. At the same time, I slightly pushed the double-curved edge of the tin over the cut:

At the same time, I inserted the rivets from the outside, and from the inside, since there was no metal surface, I put M5 washers on them:

Next, I wanted to do the same with the bottom of the canister, but ran into an unexpected problem. The stress of the wall material was released during cutting, and changed the geometry of the lower, less rigid part. And when I put exactly the front, the back did not fit far:

Therefore, I first made a "forging" blank, using the top cover as a template, and bending the desired perimeter of the lower part along it:

Then I put it inside, forming the perimeter geometry:

And then I put a narrower strip on the outside (such as I used on the lid) and riveted them together with rivets:

Next, you need to connect the lid to the canister. Digging through my storerooms, I found these loops:

Then I shortened them with a grinder:

The drill increased the diameter of the holes to 5 mm.

And screwed-riveted in place:

As locks, I decided to use the so-called chest latches.

I always have them in stock, because they cost a penny, and in many places they can come in handy. Here is one example of using them to repair an old punch case:

So in my homemade they came in handy:

Well ... Let's start creating the "insides" ....
I took a piece of PVC pipe with a diameter of 32 mm:

I cut off four pieces, cut the edges obliquely and drilled holes for the rivets:

Then I riveted them to the side wall inside the canister. I laid the rivets from the inside, again put washers on them from the outside:

Now it is convenient to store a supply of electrodes of different diameters in them (at the time of shooting it turned out that "two and a half" were over! Only "two" and "three" were available ... Now I have already bought it)))))) :

The hammer was also placed there:

By the way, the hammer is also homemade. Especially for welding, he built it from a piece of round timber and a piece of a water pipe. And heavy enough, and the handle will not light up ....

Next, I proceeded to build a pocket for grinders. I cut out a piece of linoleum in this shape:

The edges are "forged" with tin:

Then I riveted the bottom edge first:

On sale you can find a variety of things made by skilled people from improvised means. For example, a very interesting idea is a canister converted into a bar cabinet. Looks impressive and worth the same. At the same time, such a thing can be done by yourself, so that it satisfies exactly your requests and needs. In bars, the door, as a rule, opens down, which may not always be convenient.
Below is an instruction on how to make your own canister cabinet with height-adjustable shelves. The layout of the shelves depends on the purpose for which the cabinet is intended, for example, the combination below is suitable for photographic equipment, but you can adjust it to your needs.

Necessary materials and equipment

To work, you will need the following:
Materials:

• Old washed or new canister.
• Boards.
• Loops.
• Pen.
• Rubber compressor.
• Screws, bolts and nuts.

Equipment:

• Dremel with cutting disc.
• Angle grinder with cutting disc (Bulgarian).
• Band saw (or jigsaw).
• File.
• Marker, pen.
• Angle ruler (optional, a ruler will work too).
• Sandpaper.
• Plane.
• Bench drill press or drill and drill bit.

Decide on door size

Before you start cutting a door in a canister, you should decide what size it should be. Using a marker attached to the square, you can mark the doors of different sizes and choose the most suitable one. In the example shown, this is 30 mm from the edge of the canister.
In order not to accidentally erase the line drawn with a marker, you can stick it with a translucent adhesive tape, and draw a thinner line on top with a pen, along which it will be more convenient to cut.

Cut out the door

The door can be cut with a dremel or grinder.
The second option may be faster, while the grinder leaves a wider slot, because. she has a wider disc. Since it is planned to stick a rubber seal on the door and the edges of the opening, this would be a more suitable option. When working with a grinder, you will most likely need help to fix the canister.
At the final stage, it is more convenient to use a dremel to cut rounded corners. When cutting metal, you must be very careful with sharp edges in the cut. Use gloves and file the edges with a file.

Rubber seal on the door and sizing

Glue the rubber seal around the edge of the door and check if the door fits snugly. If necessary, cut and adjust the corners with a dremel and a file.

Determine the dimensions and location of the shelves inside the canister

Now you need to make the internal shelves for the locker. Depending on what you plan to store in it, consider its design. The picture shows a layout suitable for photographic equipment, while the entire structure can be further disassembled and redone, since the assembly uses a locking connection.
The internal dimensions of the canister may vary slightly depending on the manufacturer, so you'd better use your own measurements. You can use a design software like Autodesk Inventor to simulate the end result and imagine what it will look like.

Making shelves

First of all, sand the boards. In this case, the boards turned out to be 12 mm thick. Then, using the templates, mark out the details for the shelves on the boards. To cut them, it is best to use a band saw. Because this canister has a notch in the middle along the narrow side, it was necessary to cut a hole in the shelf using a drilling machine. Drill also a hole for connection to the support posts in each corner, 6mm from the edges 3mm wide and 8mm deep. When securing a shelf with a clip, put a piece of wood between the clip and the shelf itself so as not to damage it.
To accurately fit all the parts to each other and to the dimensions of the canister, careful grinding of the edges and joints will be required. Remember that sanding is best along the grain of the wood.
Finally, you need to cut out the vertical posts. To connect to the shelves using dowels, make holes 12 mm deep, 3 mm in diameter at the ends of the posts (then the fastening should be 20 mm in length).

Preparation and installation of the door

Choose the right hinge design. After measuring the width of the loops and determining where you want to attach them, make a mark using a nail or something sharp. One of the options: loops at a distance of 15 mm from the edge of the canister, at a height of 100 and 270 mm.
In order not to make a mistake with the location of the hole, start drilling using a thin drill bit, preferably 1 or 2 mm in diameter, and then install a thicker one that matches the purchased bolts.
Install the hinges and trim the seal if necessary. It is now easy to determine the location of the holes on the door by attaching the door and placing it in the desired position. Drill holes in the door as described above and attach the hinges to it.
Last but not least, attach the doorknob to the desired location. In this case, it is installed 45 mm from the edge and 180 mm from the lower edge of the door.

Shelf assembly

Finally, you need to assemble the shelves for the locker. Whether it will be easy or difficult depends on how intricate the design you come up with.

Fill your locker and enjoy

Think about where you will store the amazing locker. The most important thing, of course, is to find a place where it will be in full view, and you can proudly show everyone the creation of your hands.

Who builds a house will understand me! Having installed electricity in his country house, he ran into a problem, although there were already enough of them. The postman had nowhere to leave the mail. After tormenting myself and the postman, six months later, it struck me - to buy or make a box. It's too early to buy - the facade of the cottage is not yet ready, so, getting angry, I used for these purposes the most elegant canister I found. It's a pity, it's not a pity, but without mail yet! Due to the narrow size, there was no need to look for other cases (for example, from a power tool).

To make a mailbox, we need:
- any plastic container corresponding to the size of a sheet of A4 or A5 paper.
- 2 dowels.
- knife, ruler, wire cutters, pliers, drill, drill, screwdriver and felt-tip pen.
- puncher, or just a hammer to hammer dowels.

>

First you need to clean the canister with detergent. Let it dry and start making. Having removed, first the label, with the help of a knife and a ruler, we cut a longitudinal hole. We cut off the sides with pliers by a centimeter, so that you can bend a small visor to protect against rain.
At the bottom of the mailbox, mark a line for the windows with a felt-tip pen. Using a drill and a drill, we drill 3 holes. Drill d=12-20mm. I had to use a 10mm drill, I didn’t fit into the drill for a larger diameter. But, I advise you to find a cutter of the appropriate diameter or make a larger window so that you can see the contents of the mailbox. You can also glue a piece of plexiglass on the inside. If burrs have formed during the drilling process, then you can smooth them out with fire, from a lighter, for example.

Now let's take a look at the back wall of the product. In order to remove the mail, you need to cut an opening on the back of the mailbox. Also in the upper part, it is necessary to make two holes, with the same drill and carefully, using wire cutters, cut the grooves for the screws. Thus, the box can be hung on the wall.
Then we measure the distance between the hinge holes with a tape measure and transfer them to the wall, where you want to place the mailbox. You can also directly mark the placement of the mounting holes with a pencil or marker. Using a puncher, we drill holes and tighten the screws. The heads of the screws should be larger so that the plastic body of the canister does not fall out. To get to the mail, remove the box and open the back cover, and then hang it back. But, in the process of work, it turned out that you can fix it to the wall with screws and simply lift the box up to access the contents. Who will guess?

You can also do without a puncher by using construction dowels for concrete and a hammer, or nails. Do not forget to please the postman with the distinctive signs of the postal service, otherwise he will pass by in bewilderment of the spectacle of the canister on the wall. To do this, draw an image of an envelope with a bold felt-tip pen or write the corresponding text, to whom it is clearer in which language.

Well, well, I hope they don't confuse my little house with a car repair shop. Temporarily or permanently, my mailbox will fulfill its function and show its reliability.
Waiting for the postman!

"Useful DIY".

Many fishermen, to store their fishing gear, purchase special fishing boxes. However, this box is available for various reasons, alas, not for everyone. To the rescue of fishermen who are keen on winter fishing, ingenuity and the ability to create and do something with their own hands come.

Do-it-yourself fishing box from a plastic canister

Now you can find a lot of articles on how to make a freezer box from a Soviet refrigerator, or a wooden, plywood or even completely foam winter fishing box. But not everyone has a freezer either, and sometimes it is impossible to find it.

Styrofoam is needed very strong and solid, but it will get wet in winter fishing conditions, and it is heavy. You should not be upset, because you can make a box from a plastic canister, which is quite easy to find in your garage. We take two canisters of the size you need. Naturally, the volume of canisters determines the volume and dimensions of your future fishing box.

The sequence of making a box for winter fishing with your own hands

We take a knife and cut off the top of a large canister to get such a container. First you need to measure the height of the future box. The comfort of your sitting while fishing will depend on this and whether your back will get very tired or not. It is better to determine the height of the fishing seat by the old box or chair, on which it was comfortable for you to sit and fish.

At a small canister, cut off as in the photo. To get such a container in the form of a patch pocket.

Now you need to fasten the small canister to the side of the large canister to get an extra pocket. Fastening methods can be different, both with rivets and with bolts. You can also use a furniture stapler, as I did. With the help of a furniture stapler, we attach a small canister to a large one.

Bend the staples inside the large canister.

We cut out the lid for the box from plywood, 6 mm thick. After the cover was sawn and adjusted to size, I decided to attach foam rubber to it and cover it with leatherette. We attach hinges to the lid, you can attach them to self-tapping screws or other fasteners. The lid will not be attached to the plastic of the canister, but to the edge reinforcement.

The top of the canister is quite flexible and needs to be reinforced. This can be done using a 4 * 2 mm aluminum corner. or reinforced with fiberglass and epoxy.

Now that the edge of the canister is reinforced, we need to attach the lid to our box.

We just have to do it with our own hands, just a belt mount. We drill two holes and fix the wire in the form of loops there. We attach the belt. for easy portability.

Homemade fishing box from a plastic canister is ready

I would advise making the internal partitions of the box from plywood, because. plywood will further strengthen your box and give additional rigidity in the transverse and vertical direction. If you have little space (and there is always little), you can make several pockets on the drawer. You can also make lids on the pockets. The undoubted advantage and main advantage of this box is its lightness.

Belskikh Nikolai Viktorovichfrom. Virgin Altai Territory - Specially for Samodelki FISH