How to make a hood in the toilet and bathroom. We solve the problem of ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

Designing a private house without taking into account the ventilation system is considered incorrect. For a toilet, a bathroom, the change of air improves its composition, prevents the appearance of mold on the wall surfaces and the ceiling, is flexible. Air exchange improves the microclimate in the premises, protects structures from destruction.

Air exchange options for bath and toilet

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet in a private house is carried out mainly natural and forced. The first option is more economical and easier to implement. Does not require energy costs. The gap between the door and the floor is enough for fresh air to enter through it. Sometimes a ventilation grill is installed at the bottom of the door for these purposes. But the effectiveness of this method is low. The required air exchange is not performed, therefore mechanical devices are installed.

Forced air change does not depend on external conditions. The stream is fed and removed in the specified mode. Volatility is the main disadvantage, because the fan is powered by the mains.

Features of ventilation of a bathroom and a bathroom

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet in a private house can be installed by hand. At the same time, there are no significant differences, both between devices and installation technologies. The difficulty can be caused by the fact that the main ventilation duct is located at some distance from the bathroom. To ensure the required and high-quality air exchange, an inflow of fresh air should be organized. For this, a separate ventilation sleeve is assembled specifically for the bathroom. It should be oriented towards a common (stationary) duct.

When the main channel is located in the bathroom through a wall with a toilet, it is allowed to install ventilation grilles in both rooms. In this case, the exhaust shaft should be located directly behind the wall of the toilet room, but not behind the door.

Attention! Mechanical air exchange is universal. It is suitable for combined and non-combined bathroom and bathroom ventilation systems.

With a small room size and a closely passing main channel, an overhead fan model is mounted. It is powerful enough, does not create noise in operation (up to 40dB), consumes a small amount of electricity, and fits into any room design.

Fan performance selection

The efficiency of air exchange depends on the correctly selected equipment power. Roughly, its calculation is carried out according to the scheme.

The area of the bathroom (bathroom) is calculated.
The result obtained is multiplied by a factor of 6 (when using the room for up to three people) or by 8 (when visiting 3 or more people).
The resulting product of numbers is the required fan performance.

For example, it looks like this. Bathroom with an area of 15 sq. used by 4 people. For calculations, a correction factor of 8. Then the required fan performance will be: 15 * 8 = 120 m3 / h.

Attention! If it is necessary to provide air exchange in a room with an area of more than 15 square meters, the overhead fan model will be ineffective. Here, centrifugal channel injection units are better suited.

Installation procedure

When installing the ventilation yourself, the ventilation duct is pre-cleaned. For this, a brush or a load suspended from a rope is used. It descends several times into the channel in a rotational motion. The channel is cleaned in the event that the indicator - a sheet of paper brought to the ventilation shaft - is deflected towards the room or is not held by the force of gravity on the grate.
All work is carried out with the electricity meter turned off at a height. To do this, you need to provide a stepladder.
Installation of the unit is carried out under the very ceiling in the zone of maximum humidity, opposite the source of air intake.
Taking into account the size of the fan and the location of the power supply, the marking of the position of the wiring and the installation itself is carried out.
Installation work is carried out in the presence of a lattice, glue for fixing it, a screwdriver, dowels. You may also need a piece of hose for the duct, as well as a plasterboard box to mask the pipe and the unit.
The fan is installed in the duct. If the model is an overhead type, the box is reinforced first.
The terminals located on it are connected to a two-core cable line with a cross section of 0.2 cm.
Directly mounted on the fan casing. For this, in most models, latches are provided. Otherwise, dowels are used for these purposes.
If it is impossible to directly connect the installation, the air duct is built up. It is disguised in a box or decorated. In this capacity, a flexible, semi-rigid or rigid hose is used.
For economical consumption of electricity and rational use of equipment, it is convenient to start the fan together with the light on: you need to run a cable from the fan to the switch.
After installation and connection, voltage is applied to the network, the operation of the forced ventilation system is checked.

Before assembling the fan into the duct, the power supply is also cut off, but the order of work is somewhat different.

The unit in the channel is placed strictly vertically, as deep as possible. This position is securely fixed so that during operation it does not fall from the generated vibrations.
The supply cable must be new, without kinks and damage to the insulating winding, designed for "zero" and phase. It connects to the fan.
A switch is installed in a convenient place to start the equipment into operation.
The voltage is supplied to the network and the correct connection is checked, as well as the operation of the equipment.

Attention! The main link of the forced air exchange is the ventilation unit. You need to buy it according to the calculated parameters with the presence of a passport and a manufacturer's warranty.

Check valve in the ventilation system

With the wrong equipment or inaccurate calculations, the ventilation system does not work efficiently enough. As a consequence, there is a reverse ventilation effect. The exhaust air is blown back into the bathroom or toilet. Installing a check valve solves this problem by shutting off the return flow.

The choice of device depends on the type of ventilation system. When the channel is located vertically, air flows move along it. A horizontal valve is installed to close them. For longitudinal installation of the air duct, the shut-off piece is mounted vertically.

Some comments on the arrangement of ventilation in the bathroom and in the bathroom

The fan is purchased according to the design capacity. Its increased capacity "eats up" expensive electricity without increasing the efficiency of the process.
You can automate air exchange in a bathroom or bathroom using a timer. Regardless of the presence or absence of the owners in the house, it will maintain the specified mode, periodically turning the system on and off.

Thus, in a private house, ventilation in rooms with high air humidity and the release of unpleasant odors is definitely needed. How it will be organized is another matter. Natural aeration is often used along with forced air exchange (open window, door, etc.). From the existing methods, you can always choose the best option and carry it out with your own hands to create comfortable living conditions.

To maintain human health, it is not enough to monitor the quality of food and liquid consumed by him. Great attention should also be paid to the air in our premises. Unfortunately, few people think about the fact that it is as important as good food and water.

The ecological situation that develops in gas-polluted large cities does not allow their residents to simply ventilate the premises. The most acceptable solution to this problem is to install ventilation. The inflow of clean air will reduce the likelihood of headaches, dizziness, drowsiness, and will also serve as prevention of allergies.

The need for ventilation in the bathroom

In the construction of dwellings, the bathroom and toilet are usually set naturally. However, it is clearly not enough to constantly provide a normal level of freshness and cleanliness of the air in these rooms. So, when you take a shower, the bathroom is immediately filled with steam. Due to the lack of normal air exchange in it, moisture settles on the ceiling and walls. In the future, it is this factor that will affect the occurrence of black spots and mold. And this is very unhealthy.

Mold spores in the bathroom air can settle in the lungs of a person and cause the development of diseases such as allergies, asthma, etc. In addition, black spots gradually destroy the finishing materials, reaching the concrete itself. That is why everyone needs to establish a normally functioning one in their home.

Serviceability check

It also happens that the natural and toilet works quite well. That is why, before installing a new system, it is necessary to check the health of an existing one. This is not difficult to do. In addition, no additional tools are required for this. It is enough to bring a piece of paper directly to the sheet should stick to it under the influence of moving air. If this did not happen, then we can say that the hood does not work. Sometimes the reason for this condition may be too tight a room or toilet. In this case, the flow of air into the bathroom in the required volume is not ensured. This also requires verification. If the hood works when the door is closed, but not when the door is open, then you can simply make a gap between the floor and the door leaf.

How the ventilation system works

Air exchange in private cottages and apartment buildings is carried out according to different schemes. In small residential buildings, separate ventilation ducts are led out to the roof from the kitchen, toilet and bathroom. Another scheme is designed in houses. Here, the air is collected in one common channel, which is led out to the roof. If the house is provided for, then the builders install special systems equipped with sensitive elements. Such equipment closes or opens the dampers when necessary.

When should you install artificial ventilation?

The operation of air exchange systems installed in the house can malfunction if there are:

Errors in design or installation;
- accumulation of debris in ventilation ducts;
- damage to the system during repairs, etc.

Fan selection

Before installing a forced air exchange system, the necessary device must be purchased. It is an electric fan. When choosing this device, pay attention to:

noise level during switching on (it should not be higher than 30 dB);
the power of the device (selected depending on the area of the room).

It is also necessary to decide on the place where it will be installed. It should be located at a distance from any. The bathroom ventilation system is equipped with high-quality insulation of the electrical wires used. This warning is caused by the high level of humidity in this room.

Fan types

These devices can be of the following types:

connected to switches (their work is carried out only when the light is on in the room);
equipped with sensors (they are switched on automatically if the standard humidity value is exceeded);
with a timer that sets the time of their work.

Forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is arranged using various models of appliances. Moreover, each of them has its own design features. So, fans are:

1. Axial (propeller). This is the simplest model.

2. Radial. This type of device is capable of providing indoors.

3. Diagonal. This model combines the functions of the previous two.

4. Diametrical. These fans are capable of working with a large air volume due to the passage of air flows around the perimeter of their wheels.

The device of the new system

Forced ventilation in the bathroom can be done by hand. Moreover, the work is not particularly difficult. First of all, check the air duct and clean it, if necessary, from debris. For those who cannot install a new fan, a different option is recommended. You can simply remove a few meters of a new one from the old canal by purchasing the appropriate materials in a hardware store.

When installing an electric fan, you should decide on the place where it is best to install it. Ideally, this should be the wall opposite the door.

It is carried out directly into the opening of the exhaust duct. If your device has a larger diameter, then the hole will have to be slightly widened. After that, all electrical wires must be neatly connected. However, they should be placed in a dry place (so that they are not visible). At the next stage of work, the device is connected to a switch and fixed together with the lattice on self-tapping screws or liquid nails.

Exhaust system options

As a rule, there is a channel through which ventilation is carried out in the toilet. The scheme for organizing air exchange between this room and the bathroom can be carried out in two ways. The first of them provides for the laying of a separate ventilation pipe. It should be located in the ceiling space and go from the bathroom to the air outlet. The second option is to install two separate fans.

One of them should be located on the air outlet, and the second in the wall between the toilet and the bathroom.

Most often, ventilation in the "stalinka" bathroom is arranged according to the first option. The adoption of such a decision is facilitated by the height of the ceilings in such apartments, which is 3-3.5 m. Forced ventilation in the bathroom is carried out with the laying of an additional air duct. This structure is attached to the very ceiling and covered with plasterboard. In this case, ventilation in the bathroom is carried out using a flexible, rigid or semi-rigid air duct.

Toilet ventilation

Good air exchange is important not only in the bathroom. Normal air circulation is also necessary in the toilet. It will allow you not to feel discomfort from the work of the sewer system and will prevent the appearance of fungus by reducing the humidity in the room. Often, artificial ventilation is required in the toilet of a private house. Such a need arises if there is no natural air circulation due to the lack of sufficient wind speed in the area where the dwelling is located, high ambient temperatures and some other factors.

How to make ventilation in the toilet (forced type)? To do this, you need to study the device diagram of an existing duct. Sometimes he can go directly to the toilet. But often ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is carried out from one box in the bathroom. In this case, there should be a hole between these two rooms, closed by a grill.

In the first case, it is possible to install the fan directly on the box. With the second version of the exhaust scheme, an additional air duct will be required.

To create a normal microclimate in a private house or apartment, it is necessary for the ventilation system to function well. Exhaust shafts usually have their own exits in kitchens, bathrooms, toilets and rooms where heating equipment for a private house is installed.

Ventilation must be installed in the toilet, because according to sanitary standards, the air in this room is the most polluted.

Types of ventilation and forced exhaust

Ventilation is:

supply air - air enters through the cracks of window and door openings, through the vents or transoms;
exhaust - polluted air leaves the room through the ventilation shafts to the outside.

Why are vents located in the toilet, bathroom and kitchen? This is due to the fact that according to sanitary standards, air pollution in them is allowed to a greater extent than in residential premises. Air moves from rooms through doorways into the bathroom, toilet, kitchen and then out through the ventilation shaft.

Air circulation occurs due to the different density of air inside and outside the room. The volume of transported air is a variable quantity that depends on many factors. Nevertheless, for residential premises, air exchange must be provided at least 3 m³ / hour per 1 m², and for bathrooms and toilets - 25 m³ / hour.

Modern windows and doors of a private house have excellent insulation properties from the outside world, dust, noise and at the same time prevent the flow of air into an apartment or house. Air conditioning systems cool the air, make it comfortable in temperature, but by no means cleaner. Therefore, the ventilation system should be treated with great care. The cleanliness of the air in your home depends on this. If the hoods are clogged, urgent action is needed. In a private house, it is not difficult to clean the ventilation on your own. If you live in an apartment building, then you urgently need to contact the HOA.

It is quite simple to check the ventilation operation. Place a sheet of paper on the grille of the hood and see: if it is attracted, then the ventilation is functioning normally, and if it falls, then the ventilation shaft is clogged.

Diagram of the general ventilation device in the bathroom and toilet.

Toilet and bathroom are also rooms with high humidity. If the air circulation in these rooms is weak, condensation may collect on the walls and ceiling. It can cause mold and mildew to form. And yet, as mentioned above, air is extracted from other rooms through these rooms. Ventilation in the toilet of a private house and apartment is not much different according to the principle of the device. To improve ventilation in the toilet, it is possible for forced air extraction. This is very easy to do. Forced draft types:

axial;
radial;
centrifugal;
roof fans.

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Installation of ventilation in the toilet

Step 1. The first step is to install the purchased fan into the outlet of the ventilation shaft. The hole can be widened if necessary. This is easy to do with a hammer drill. If the hole, on the contrary, is large, then a piece of plastic pipe can be installed for a sewer of a suitable size, and the rest of the space can be filled with foam. The fan can be fastened to the wall with self-tapping screws or with glue. Advice: if the walls of the toilet are tiled, then the fixing is better done with glue. This will prevent the tiles from cracking when drilling.

Step 2. Now it is necessary to supply electricity to the installed fan. If ventilation in the toilet of a private house is planned at the construction stage, then it is advisable to provide for the possibility of laying your own power line for the fan with the installation of a separate switch. But what if you decide to install an extractor hood in the toilet of your home? You can go the hard way - gouging walls, laying wiring, plastering it, installing a switch, and finishing the walls to hide previous performance. Or you can go the simple way - power the fan from the lamp installed in your toilet. To do this, you need a plastic cable channel, which must be carefully mounted from the lamp to the installed fan. You put an electric wire in it.

Step 3. It remains only to connect the installed equipment. To do this, you need to disassemble the luminaire and connect the "zero" and "phase" both to the wires for powering the hood, and to the light bulb. When doing this, remember not to twist the wires together. Use terminal blocks for this purpose. The introduction of electrical wires into the fan case and their laying in the seats are carried out through the holes provided for this purpose.

Warning: when working with electricity, remember to observe safety measures. Work can be carried out only after the consumers are de-energized. The considered method is very easy to install, and everyone can perform it. With this connection, the hood turns on when the light comes on in the toilet and turns off when the light goes out.

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Features of installing fans

It was previously stated that if possible it is best to put your power line to the fan and install a separate switch. This can make it possible to install more advanced exhaust fans, for example:

With non-return valve. The design of such a hood prevents air from the ventilation shaft from entering the room. This is especially true for apartment buildings, when you can catch smells from neighbors, and it's good if it's the smell of borscht, and not cigarette smoke.
With motion sensor. The hood turns on when a person appears in the toilet and turns off after he leaves the toilet.
With a timer. Depending on which program is installed, the ventilation of the toilet can last from 2 to 30 minutes.
From humidity sensors. The fan will turn on automatically if the humidity in the toilet rises above the level set by the program, and turns off after it drops below the set value.
With constant ventilation mode. The fan is always running at minimum speed. When the humidity rises above the set value, the hood switches to the maximum power mode.
With a clock on the bezel.

Sometimes you can find various combinations of these devices in one device. For example, a fan with a humidity sensor, timer and non-return valve.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is an indispensable condition, since it is in these rooms that the general humidity of the air is increased and unpleasant odors are usually present. If the ventilation system is not installed or does not work efficiently enough, then not only will a persistent smell persist in the bathroom rooms, but also a favorable microclimate will quickly be created for the development of mold and mildew, which are very difficult to deal with.

Everyone knows that steam and heated air rise up, and if they do not find a way out, then most of the vapors will settle on the surface of the ceiling and the upper part of the walls, where you can most often see black spots of microflora colonies. We must not forget that any fungus multiplies by spores that are thrown into the air. Together with the air, they are then inhaled by households, and this can lead to allergic reactions, respiratory system diseases, asthma and other serious ailments.

Basically, the question of how to conduct it effectively arises before the owners of private houses, since in high-rise buildings this is pre-laid in the building project, and the ventilation ducts are divorced into the premises of the bathroom and the kitchen. However, information can be useful for apartment owners as well - the "standard" ventilation system does not always fully cope with its responsibilities, and certain adjustments must be made to its work.

Types of ventilation systems

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the existing ventilation systems of the premises.

Ventilation systems are divided into two main types - natural and forced.

Natural ventilation works only due to the free movement of air from an area of high pressure to a lower one, that is, without the use of special devices and devices. It is this type of ventilation that is designed in the apartments of most multi-storey buildings. The size of the ventilation windows (vents) in the bathroom and toilet (separate or combined) and in the kitchen, the configuration and throughput of the ventilation risers are designed in such a way as to create a natural movement of air from the living quarters with the required volume of air exchange.

Forced ventilation involves the installation of fans. Very often such a system is installed in bathrooms and kitchens of private houses. However, some homeowners in high-rise buildings, wanting to improve the ventilation of the premises, install a fan in the apartment's conditions.

In addition, forced ventilation systems are subdivided, depending on their main functions, into the following types:

Exhaust ventilation. In this system, the air rising to the ceiling is drawn in and out through special ducts with the help of a fan. Typically, such a scheme is used in conjunction with a natural ventilation system. This is the most common option for private construction conditions.

For example, this illustration shows an option that is carried out through the intake of air from the street, with its further forced exhaust through the kitchen and sanitary premises.

- in this system, the fan operates to supply air, and its outlet for a full cycle is ventilated naturally through the ventilation ducts. In practice, in residential construction, such a scheme is rarely used - here it is more important to create conditions for the effective release of air to the outside in the required volume.
The supply and exhaust system implies both the injection of air into the premises and its forced removal from them. It is typical for volumetric structures, for houses of a large area, in which the possibilities of natural inflow and outflow of air are clearly insufficient.

Fan types

Since the exhaust ventilation system is the most effective for a residential building, with a natural inflow of air through "clean" living quarters and forced it out through the kitchen and bathroom, it is worth saying a few words about the exhaust fans. They are subdivided into types according to the places of their installation - these are axial, duct, roof and radial.

Axial wall (overhead) fans.

The axial fan consists of a housing in the form of a cylinder, inside which there is a wheel with cantilever blades mounted on the axis of the electric motor. When the blades rotate, they capture air and activate its removal from the room.

This type of device is fixed in the ventilation duct window on the wall (or ceiling) of the bathroom or toilet. It is very easy to install due to a well-thought-out design, and looks quite aesthetically pleasing, therefore it can be called the most popular for installation both in a private house and in apartment conditions.

Duct fans

Duct axial fans are used in everyday practice not so long ago and not as widely as overhead axial fans, since their independent installation is rather complicated. However, sometimes it is impossible to do without them, for example, in cases where the area of the ventilated room is more than 15 m².

Duct fans are also installed in cases where they want to reduce the noise level from the operation of the device in the bathroom or other rooms of a private house.

This type of fan can be installed in different parts of the ventilation duct. It is located in a special box-shaped case, or it can itself be a connecting element for two parts of the ventilation pipe. It is very important that the instrument is easily accessible as it must be periodically cleaned and lubricated.

Air ducts in which duct fans are installed are of three types - flexible, semi-rigid and rigid.

Flexible ducts are easy to install, which is why they are chosen most often. However, they are less reliable and have a much shorter lifespan than rigid or semi-rigid ducts. A zealous owner will certainly make a choice in favor of reliability.

Radial fans

A radial fan consists of a motor located on the axis of rotation of a wheel with blades, which is placed in a closed metal box with a characteristic spiral shape.

During operation, the fan blades begin to rotate, capturing air from the room, which from the fan enters through the outlet of the casing into the air duct.

For installation in residential buildings, it is recommended to choose radial fans with backward-curved blades. Although they have slightly lower indicators of the generated pressure, such devices are distinguished by better "linearity" in adjustments, a large operating range and, most importantly, not so noisy compared to fans with forward-curved blades.

Radial fans withstand increased loads well and are quite economical in operation.

Roof fans

As can be understood from the name of these devices, they are installed on the roofs of apartment buildings and private houses.

The design of the roof fan includes such elements as a motor, a wheel with blades on the axis of rotation, vibration-insulating (damper) gaskets, and a device for auto-adjustment.

The roof fan can be of axial, multi-blade or radial design. The latter is the most in demand, since it is the least whimsical and provides high performance with minimal energy costs.

Forced ventilation systems can operate in both automatic and manual modes, have one level of pumping or several speeds.

Unregulated ventilation has only two mode positions: "on" and "off".
More flexible will be a system that has several speeds, which are selected by the switch.
The most economical in operation are fans with a variable speed, in which the impeller is given a speed of rotation corresponding to the required current load on the system. The speed change is quite smooth, with the help of special automatic monitoring and control units.

Basic standards and requirements for the organization of ventilation

It's time to move on to the issue of choosing the necessary and the toilet. But immediately the main question will arise about its most important characteristic - performance, that is, the ability to pump a certain volume of air per unit of time.

It will be difficult to understand this aspect if, for a start, you do not familiarize yourself with the basic standards for organizing ventilation in a residential building or apartment.

It is necessary to rely on this issue on the main guiding documents - the relevant sections and annexes of SNiP 41-01-2003 ("Heating, ventilation and air conditioning") and SNiP 2.08.01-89 * ("Residential buildings").

According to the requirements of this document, a forced artificial ventilation system should be installed in those rooms where it is necessary according to sanitary standards, but natural ventilation, that is, a window or a window, is absent in them or normal ventilation is not enough.

In order not to refer the reader to the SNiP tables, below is generalized information that will be required to calculate ventilation.

Room type	Ventilation rates		Notes (edit)
	Air inflow from outside	Air extraction to the outside
Residential area premises	The air exchange rate is not less than 0.35 times / hour, but at the same time the intake is not less than 30 m³ per person.	-	The calculation is based on the total volume of the entire apartment (house) or on the number of people actually living
Residential area premises	3 m³ for every 1 m² of living space	-	The calculation is based on the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe living quarters of the house
Kitchen
With an electric stove	-	Not less than 60 m³ / hour
With a 2-burner gas stove	-	Not less than 60 m³ / hour
With a 3-burner gas stove	-	Not less than 75 m³ / hour
With a 4-burner gas stove	-	Not less than 90 m³ / hour
Bathroom	Inflow from the premises of the living area	Not less than 25 m³ / hour
Separate lavatory	Inflow from the premises of the living area	Not less than 25 m³ / hour
Combined bathroom (bath + toilet) individual	Inflow from the premises of the living area	Not less than 50 m³ / hour

There are, of course, norms in SNiP for more specific visits: dryers, ironing rooms, dedicated laundries and others. But in the context of this article, we are not particularly interested in them - we will talk about average apartments or houses. You can completely limit yourself to the above values.

But why do we need to know the indicators of supply natural ventilation in the premises of the living area? And the fact is that an apartment or a house should be considered as a single balanced "organism". To be effective, and the rooms of the bathroom, toilet and kitchen are constantly ventilated by the air coming from the living area, the exhaust devices installed in them must be able to cope with this task. Simply put, the volume of the extracted air cannot be less than that of the incoming air. There is such a concept as the air balance equation, and when selecting ventilation units, it is necessary to strive for its maximum observance.

∑Qpr. = ∑Q

∑Qpr.- the required total volume of air supplied with forced ventilation.

∑Q- the required capacity of the exhaust ventilation.

Failure to comply with this equality in one direction or another can cause undesirable consequences - stagnation of air, the penetration of odors from the kitchen, and even worse - from the restroom, into living rooms, the accumulation of dampness in the corners or on window slopes, unpleasant drafts and other negative phenomena.

Constantly fogging windows are a sign of poor room ventilation

The ever-wet surface of the glass on the windows is a floor of trouble, just an external sign of a rather serious problem. , and what needs to be done in this case - read in a special publication of our portal.

To determine the right side of our equation, we will have to carry out calculations for the required air flow.

The most correct approach would be to calculate according to three parameters - according to sanitary standards for each resident, according to the rate of air exchange in the volume of the entire house or apartment, and according to standards for each meter of living space. Then it remains to compare the results obtained and choose the maximum indicator - it will become the required value of the air flow for high-quality ventilation.

Well, then, based on the obtained value, it will be possible to switch to the distribution of forced exhaust ventilation volumes in order to achieve the desired equality.

For example, a calculation for a house with a total area of 120 square meters.

Do you have problems calculating the area of the premises?

Usually, the area is easiest to take from the existing house plan. If for some reason it is not there, but you have to calculate it yourself. In a special publication of the portal, various examples are considered - from the simplest rectangular rooms to rooms of an unusual complex configuration, and convenient online calculators are placed for quick and accurate calculation.

For the convenience of calculations, you can create a small table:

The premises of the house	Air inflow from outside			Exhaust to the street
Other data and settlement progress	According to sanitary standards for living people	By the frequency of air exchange from the total volume of the premises	According to the norms for 1 m2 of usable area	Specified minimum	Necessary in real conditions
Number of residents	5 people	-	-	-	-
Living room	-	21 m²	21 m²	-	-
Bedroom 1	-	16 m²	16 m²	-	-
Bedroom 2	-	14 m²	14 m²	-	-
Children	-	17 m²	17 m²	-	-
Canteen	-	15 m²	15 m²	-	-
Kitchen (gas hob 4 burners)	-	12 m²	-	90 m³ / hour	150 m³ / hour
Hallway	-	5 m²	-	-	-
Hall	-	9 m²		-	-
The corridor	-	3 m²	-	-	-
Bathroom	-	6 m²	-	25 m³ / hour	50 m³ / hour
Bathroom	-	2 m²	-	25 m³ / hour	50 m³ / hour
Total area	-	120 m²	83 m²	-	-
Ceiling height	-	3.1 m	-	-	-
Volume in total	-	120 × 3.1 = 372 m³	-	-	-
Established norm	30 m³ / hour	0.35 times / hour	3 m³ / 1 m²	-	-
Calculation	5 × 30 = 150	372 x 0.35 = 130.2	83 x 3 = 249	90 + 25 + 25 = 140	150 + 50 + 50 = 250
The need for standards	150 m³ / hour	130.2 m³ / hour		140 m³ / hour

So, of the three calculated values, we take the maximum - 249 m³ / hour, since it fully meets all the conditions. We round it up to 250 m³ / hour, and bring to this value the total capacity of exhaust ventilation in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet.

The kitchen should be given more - it has a larger area and ventilation rates in this room are stricter. In our case, it can take 150 m³ / hour. This can be a total of ventilation + kitchen ventilation, but only if the hood works with air extraction to the outside, and not according to the recirculation principle.

The remaining 100 m³ / hour can be evenly distributed between the bathroom and toilet (if you plan to install individual axial fans for each room). Or, in the case when these rooms are united by one exhaust system, you can install a common duct or radial fan of appropriate performance. Obviously, such volumes of exhaust ventilation are quite sufficient in comparison with the minimum standards, even with a good margin.

So, all the conditions are fully met, and the required capacity of the ventilation unit has also been determined.

Other criteria for choosing a bathroom and toilet fan

It is very important to know what else you need to pay attention to when choosing an exhaust fan for bathroom rooms, in addition to its performance. These criteria include the following technical and operational parameters:

The level of noise generated during operation. The operation of any ventilation device is accompanied by mechanical and aerodynamic noise. These sound vibrations propagate through the air, along the air ducts and wall surfaces inside which they are laid.

Mechanical noise arises from vibration of a wheel with blades, an electric motor and a casing in which the entire structure is installed.

Aerodynamic noise appears as a result of vortex formation inside the casing at the impeller, at the inlet and outlet of air, when it moves through the air ducts, as well as during pulsations that occur.

Increased vibration and noise of the ventilation unit can negatively affect the well-being of residents of an apartment or house.

Therefore, for fans installed in residential premises, there are certain restrictions on the generated noise pressure, and this parameter itself must be indicated in the product passport (often - even within a certain distance from the device).

If a fan is purchased with the ability to adjust the engine speed and, accordingly, performance, then you should give preference to a device that will cope with the necessary task of exhausting the required air volume not at its maximum, but by about 0.5 ÷ 0.7 of its inherent capabilities. This way the equipment will last longer, and the noise level will be significantly reduced - high revs are most often the main cause of noise.

It should be noted that manufacturers install special silencers of one design or another on many fans - be sure to take this into account when choosing.

Another important point in reducing the noise level is the installation of a fan with provided straight sections to stabilize the air flow, reducing turbulence. For a duct or radial fan, it is advisable to leave such areas on both sides (for an axial fan, of course, this cannot be fully observed). The length of each such section must be at least 1.5 times the outer diameter of the impeller (turbine).

Fan functionality. Exhaust ventilation systems can be automatic or standard.

Axial conventional fans can be operated manually, or they can be built into the general lighting system of the room, that is, when the light is turned on, the exhaust fan is also turned on.

The latter option is more convenient and economical, but here some caution is required so that when the device is turned off, the entire ventilation system of the house as a whole does not suffer. The outflow of air from the living area in the minimum required volume must be ensured at all times.

The automatic design of the device presupposes the presence of an electronic unit with a timer, which sets the switch-on time, operating modes and the fan switch-off period.

Instrument safety. Since the fan is powered by electricity, moisture-proof appliances are selected for bathrooms, the packaging of which must be marked with a corresponding label.

When choosing a fan, it is worth checking the availability of a quality certificate for the product. It is necessary to purchase such devices necessarily in specialized stores, preferably - models of well-known manufacturers, the brand of which itself gives a certain guarantee for the product. Do not hesitate to demand that the necessary marks of sale be affixed in the product passport - to ensure further warranty and service.

Self-installation of ventilation

Installing a fan in the bathroom or toilet of an apartment is quite simple, since the ventilation system in multi-storey buildings is already arranged, and the device will only increase the exhaust air exhaust along with unpleasant odors and humidity.

It is more difficult to install a ventilation system in a private house. But doing it yourself is also quite possible. Of course, it is best to install all the elements of the system even at the construction stage, but often you have to carry out these installation work in an already finished building.

Elements of the ventilation system

If the type of ventilation system is determined, then you need to prepare all the elements necessary for it according to the previously taken dimensions.

The fan is the main component of the system and can be built into a wall or ceiling, as well as into an air duct. The device is usually built into the air duct in the case of a planned installation of a complex ventilation system. For example, if the bathroom and toilet are separated (or even spaced apart) from each other, then in each of the rooms it will be possible to arrange its own ventilation hole, from which ducts or pipes are diverted, then connected to a single duct equipped with a duct or radial roof fan.
Duct ducts can be made of plastic or metal, have a round or rectangular cross-section. Each of them has its own advantages, for example, the rectangular version is more convenient to attach to the ceiling or wall, it can ideally be positioned above a suspended or stretch ceiling. The circular cross-section provides more efficient air removal, since it does not have internal corners that hinder its smooth movement or cause turbulence.

Rectangular air ducts are easier to attach to walls and flow, but round ones are less "noisy"

Swivel elbows are used when using rigid boxes. They are installed in complex structures, when changing the direction of air ducts, when exiting through a wall or ceiling, and in other cases, in accordance with the installation plan.
Couplings are used to connect individual sections of the duct.
A non-return valve is installed in order to avoid backflow of air when the fan is off, or, for example, in a strong wind outside.
Elements for fixing air ducts. To do this, you can use home-made or ready-made brackets (clamps), which are usually installed every 500 ÷ 700 mm, depending on the location.
Ventilation grilles installed on the inlet and outlet of the system are required if a duct fan installed between two parts of the duct is selected. One ventilation grill will be needed to mount it on the system outlet when installing a surface mounted axial fan.

Ventilation system installation

The installation of the ventilation system is carried out in different ways, depending on the chosen design, and on whether it is being updated or reinstalled. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation, a detailed diagram should be drawn up, according to which it will be easier to work.

If you decide to update an already installed ventilation system, then it is best, if possible, to replace the air duct with a new one. In the event that this cannot be done, it will be necessary to thoroughly clean the old duct from debris and layers on the stacks.
Before laying the ventilation duct, it is necessary to determine in advance the installation location of the fan. The optimal place for installing the device will be the wall opposite the doorway. In this case, the ventilation system will work more efficiently due to the natural flow of air in the form of a draft.
The next step is to cut a new one in the wall or, if necessary, expand the existing ventilation window to the required size.
The ventilation duct is led out into an arranged hole, then it is gradually mounted, laid in accordance with the scheme and fixed in the attic of the building, or it is led through the attic floor and the roof.
If the channel is led out into the street through the outer wall, it is recommended to install a pipe in the ventilation opening from the street side, which is raised vertically by at least 500 ÷ 1000 mm. If only a protective grill is installed on the through hole, then the room will not have time to heat up when the heating system is operating - all the heat will quickly go through the ventilation in a draft.

The ventilation pipe leading out through the roof of the building requires a reliable waterproofing device. For this purpose, you can use special waterproofing cuffs, which are put on the pipe and fixed on the roof.

Another option for installing the system is to mount the fan in the ceiling and connect it to a flexible ventilation duct (corrugated pipe), which is connected to the outlet, covered by a protective grill installed under the roof soffit. This method of installation is possible both in combination with a false ceiling and without it, since the box can easily pass through the attic.

In the case of installing a complex ventilation system, when the rooms of the bathroom are separated, and ventilation must be connected to one common air duct, you can proceed as shown in this diagram. Inserts with nozzles are installed in the common ventilation channel, which will go out into the rooms through the suspended ceiling, and the air duct itself can be brought out into the street through the wall. In this case, two fans can be installed, one for each room or one, ducted or installed from the street side and covered with a special casing.

After conducting and securing the air ducts, you need to carefully install the axial overhead fan itself, which is inserted into the box and fixed on the wall in a convenient in each case and, of course, in a reliable way. The presence of vibration loads should be taken into account so that the fasteners do not loosen over time.
Before finally fixing the surface-mounted axial fan in the window, you need to connect the device to the power supply. It is recommended to enclose the wire connecting the fan with the switch in a special plastic cable channel fixed to the wall, which can be placed along the ceiling or hidden above the suspended structure.

The fan is connected to the power supply through the connecting terminals, which must be hidden under a special cover or casing to exclude active exposure to high humidity.

Depending on the design, the terminal block is located in different ways, but a connection diagram is always attached to the fan, which will help you navigate this issue.

If a decision is made to connect the fan with a light switch, then this switching should be carried out approximately as shown in this diagram:

Connection in this way is carried out in a junction box specially installed for this, where the "zero" and "phase" wires of the fan and lighting are connected using a terminal, respectively. The "phase" is interrupted on the switch, and from it there is already a connection to both devices.

By the way, if you think about it carefully, then such a scheme is very irrational. We simulate a situation - a person took a bath or shower, dried himself off, dressed, left the bathroom and turned off the light behind him. During this time, the excess moisture is unlikely to be fully drawn out by the fan, and the room is left with a "steam column". The situation is similar with the use of the restroom. It would be more reasonable with such a connection to provide for a time delay, at least for 5 ÷ 10 minutes, by installing a simple time relay in the fan circuit.

By the way, if you wish, you can find on sale electronic timer control devices for light and ventilation, designed specifically for these purposes.

When installing a duct fan, it is necessary to carefully consider how to connect it to the power supply, especially if the ventilation duct is planned to be run through the attic. An electrical cable will need to be laid through the ceiling, and it itself along its entire length, all its possible connections, as well as the passage through the ceiling, must be reliably insulated.

If the system is installed under the ceiling of the premises, then the duct together with the fan can be hidden above the suspended ceiling. In this case, the ventilation hole can be arranged in the ceiling, where the air duct is led out and fixed, and then cover this window with a decorative and functional grill.

Video: how to independently install an exhaust fan in a bathroom or toilet

Checking the installed system

After completing the installation of the ventilation system, it is necessary to check it. In order to carry out such a control, no tools are required - it is enough to bring a piece of paper or a lighted candle to the grill of the switched on fan. If a sheet of paper is attracted to the grate, and the candle flame tilts toward it, then we can say that the fan is working quite efficiently.

If it is necessary to increase the thrust, then a small artificial draft can be stimulated. For this, a narrow slot-like window is cut out at the bottom of the bathroom door or a series of holes is drilled. These openings are then closed on both sides by a specially designed ventilation grill. It, depending on the design and type of holes made, is inserted into the through opening, can be glued to the door or screwed on with self-tapping screws.

Barred "window" at the bottom of the bathroom or toilet door

Typical reasons for poor-quality operation of the ventilation system

It remains to say a few words about possible cases of ineffective operation of the mounted ventilation.

There are several reasons that can significantly reduce traction in the system, and you should pay attention to them first of all, before rushing to purchase all the necessary elements for carrying out repair and restoration measures:

Poor initial installation of the ventilation system or its incorrect calculation.
The contamination or clogging of the canal that has arisen during the operation - this often happens in a situation where the protective grill is missing or damaged from the street side. A typical reason is that birds can form a nest in such an uncovered pipe or burnt foliage can accumulate.
Damage to the ventilation system as a result of careless carrying out of any construction work.

If, after checking all the indicated possible reasons, the optimal air exchange has not returned to normal, only then you can think about replacing the fan itself or even reconstructing the entire system.

Until a few decades ago, there were no toilets in private houses. To satisfy their natural needs, people had to relieve themselves in an outdoor toilet. It was a small building that always smelled bad. Now, in the world of modern technology, toilets have begun to be installed in homes. This is very comfortable, since in cold weather you do not need to run outside to use the toilet several times a day. Naturally, in a private house or apartment, a bathroom should be equipped with everything necessary to exclude the spread of odor throughout the house and prevent mold from forming. Therefore, every modern toilet must be equipped with a ventilation system.

Regardless of where the toilet is located (in a private house or an apartment building), ventilation must be present in this room.

Types of ventilation in the toilet:

Natural.
Forced.

The first option says that the air circulates around the room on its own. Such ventilation is equipped immediately during the construction of a house, and consists of several air ducts and shafts located vertically between the walls. The mines lead not only to the toilet, but also to the bathroom, as well as to the kitchen. The openings or entrances to the ventilation shaft are protected by lattice panels, and the air flow into the kitchen and bathroom is carried out through openings located in the house, as well as through open windows and doors. Natural ventilation in the toilet of a private house does not always cope with the tasks set, since the size of the house and the layout may not correspond to the established standards. It happens that, according to the project, the house does not have a bathroom (the old houses of "Khrushchev" and "Stalin") and sewage is not provided. Therefore, residents independently equip one of the rooms for a toilet and a bathroom: they lay a sewer pipe, think over where it is better to make a cesspool (or connect to a centralized sewage system), install plumbing and run water pipes. Everything seems to be done, but as a result, the smell is constantly present not only in the toilet, but also quickly spreads throughout the house. To prevent this, you can install forced ventilation. But before we learn the benefits of forced ventilation in the bathroom and how to organize it correctly, let's find out if the ventilation in your toilet is working well.

Natural ventilation in the toilet. Photo:

How to check the ventilation in the bathroom

To find out if ventilation is working in areas such as the bathroom, kitchen and toilet, you can do the following:

Open the toilet door.
Open the window for ventilation or open the window.
Take a paper towel and place it over the vent hole.
If the ventilation is functioning properly, the napkin will firmly press against the mesh opening. If this does not happen, then it is possible that the ventilation channel is clogged or not at all (the ventilation shaft is walled up).
Instead of a napkin, you can light a match or turn on the lighter and immediately bring it to the ventilation hole. If the flame remains motionless, then the ventilation in the bathroom is not working.

If you see that the flame of a lighter or candle deflects to the side towards the shaft and even goes out, this indicates that the ventilation is normal. By the way, in the summer, when it is very hot outside, the air in the ventilation duct remains stationary, this will make it difficult to check.

Now you need to close the window or vent, as well as the doors and check the draft in the ventilation duct again. So you can understand the need to install additional ventilation. According to experts, in any case, it is necessary to install forced ventilation in the toilet and bathroom (especially if the bathroom is combined). Then the room will always remain dry, this not only creates comfortable conditions in the living rooms, but also keeps the plumbing and furniture in the toilet and bathroom in proper order.

Forced ventilation in the toilet

This type of air flow in the toilet is more suitable for multi-storey buildings. If you install a forced ventilation system, then you can solve such a problem as heavy unpleasant air in the room. It is especially important to install a ventilation system even when the natural channel of the air supply system in the bathroom is connected to a common one. To exclude the spread of odors from neighboring apartments, it is necessary to install a fan with a check valve. Such a scheme will allow you to cope with unpleasant odors if the toilet and bathroom are combined.

Forced ventilation in the toilet. Scheme:

How to ventilate the toilet

First, you need to go to a specialty store and purchase a fan and related items. This is not easy, since you need to understand what the power of the device should be. To do this, you need to multiply the area of the toilet by the height of the ceiling. The resulting figure is the volume of your room in which you need to install forced ventilation. Now this figure needs to be multiplied by the frequency of air exchange, you get the performance of the device in 1 hour. There are certain norms for the toilet, this is 25 m 3 per hour. Depending on the area of the room, this figure may be higher.

How to choose the right fan:

noiselessness of the device. Choose models with an output of up to 40 dB, as this noise level does not affect human hearing and does not interfere with the normal rhythm of life;
buy a ball bearing fan, it works silently and will last a long time;
consider the following: the level of humidity in the room, whether the bathroom is combined, whether there is a shower in the bathroom.

It is also important to have additional functions in the device, for example, a time delay timer. It is very convenient - you do not need to turn on the fan every time you enter the toilet, you just need to open the door and the fan will turn on by itself, when a person leaves the room, the fan works for a few more minutes, and then turns off automatically. You can program the device and set the required operating time. Let's say after you leave the restroom, the fan will run for another 5 minutes, and then turn off on its own.

There are models of fans that can be connected directly to the switch. When the light in the lavatory is turned on, the device for air ventilation is also put into operation. As soon as the light is turned off, the fan also stops working. If your bathroom does not have a natural ventilation shaft, then you can connect a fan to the shaft in the kitchen, only then you need to buy and install a grate with a valve so that the fan blows air where it is needed. The check valve will prevent air from the restroom from entering the kitchen.

And one more feature of the fans: you can purchase a device with a sensor that reacts to the appearance of moisture in the room. If you went to take a shower in a shared bathroom, then such a fan will turn on on its own, as the humidity in the room will increase.

DIY ventilation in the toilet

The design of the fans can be different:

Axial - the air flow is forced by the fan blades, passing along its axis. Maximum air pressure - 50 Pa. These fans can only be installed in ductless ventilation systems.
Diametrical, when the main fan wheel looks like a drum. Unfortunately, despite the attractive price, the performance factor of this type of fans is low.
Centrifugal fans are equipped with a volute casing. They are considered the most efficient and highly productive. Of the shortcomings, only one can be distinguished - this is a high level of noise during operation.
Mixed - axial with centrifugal. Such a fan has good performance, operates quietly, and is small in size.

Axial fan:

After you decide on the type of device for forced ventilation, it is necessary to perform preventive maintenance on the air vent. Debris can enter the ventilation hole, for example from the attic. In addition, it is quickly clogged with cobwebs, on which dust particles slowly settle. All this interferes with the natural circulation of air.

If you live on the top floor, you can clean the ventilation shaft yourself. To do this, simply lower any heavy object on a strong rope (many use a kettlebell) to clear the hole from the cobwebs. If you live on the lower floors, then invite the ZhEK employees or contact a special service so that the channel is free before installing the fan.

Exhaust ventilation in the toilet. Installation features

In order to make ventilation in the restroom, it is necessary not only to buy the fan itself, but also to buy auxiliary materials. The modern building materials market offers customers a wide range of various ducts and pipes for ventilation systems. These can be boxes of various shapes, made of thin metal, plastic, flexible material (aluminum-coated pipes, corrugated plastic, flexible air ducts).

It is best to use rectangular or round fixtures as the organization of the duct. By the way, rectangular air ducts can be laid directly on top if you have already made repairs and laid tiles. The box fits easily even behind a sewer riser.

It is best to make separate ventilation ducts for the kitchen and the combined bathroom. Therefore, you need to purchase more adapters and connections.

To summarize: to lay a forced ventilation system, we need:

propylene pipe 1 pc. for a combined bathroom and 2 pcs. for a separate one (separately for a restroom and a bathroom);
connecting element for aligning a round duct with a rectangular one;
fan;
ventilation duct grill;
a socket with protection against moisture, or if you will connect the fan to the lighting system, then an additional several meters of the electric cord;
tools.

If it is not possible to install the fan into the opening of the existing duct, then it is necessary to think in advance how the duct will run. It can be hidden under a false ceiling. The best place to mount the fan is right in the center of the ceiling. If the room is large, then it is best to install several fans, it is desirable that they are located closer to the bathroom or toilet, in order to ensure good air flow in this place.

Look at the photo, this is how the ventilation duct looks like in the wall of the mine:

When choosing a fan, you do not need to be guided by this rule, the more powerful the device, the better. Do not be lazy to calculate the area of the room and start from this figure. If you install a powerful fan in a small toilet, you can come to the opposite - the air flow will be less than the outflow.

You can cope with the work on the ventilation device in the toilet yourself, if your task is not to build an additional plastic duct structure or corrugated pipe. To do this, you only need to install a fan (it is best to buy a radial type) directly in the ventilation shaft. Unscrew the grille located in the exhaust duct and insert the fan into it. For reliability, it is advisable to glue the device to the glue. Next, you need to lay a box for connecting the fan to the mains. You can take out a separate outlet or run a cable and connect directly to the luminaire.

Now you know how to ventilate the toilet yourself. To avoid any questions during work, we suggest watching this video:

The subtleties of work. What else do you need to know

So that efforts are not wasted, it is necessary not only to choose the right fan and install it, but also to adhere to some rules:

the hood must be installed opposite the door to the bathroom. If you decide to install the hood next to the door, on the same wall, then the air circulation will become weaker;
do not forget to pre-clean the ventilation channel in order to get rid of debris that has fallen from the attic or stuck in the hole of the mine (pieces of plaster, etc.) after repair work by the residents of the house;
if you see that the opening of the ventilation duct is too narrow, then it can be widened to increase the air flow. To do this, you need to use a puncher. If the channel is wide, then a plastic pipe must be installed in the hood, and the remaining space must be filled with construction foam;
the hood must be fully deepened into the shaft so that only one grate remains on the wall;
You can "put" the fan on strong glue, sealant or fasteners. By the way, it is best to use glue or sealant, these materials will further improve sound insulation and reduce the vibration of the device during operation;
when connecting the exhaust structure to the power grid, it is necessary to hide the cable in a previously prepared box. This is possible if ventilation in the toilet is equipped at the initial stage during the renovation of the bathroom. If the repair has been done a long time ago, and in order not to disturb the tile, the wire box is lowered along the wall, laying it in a plastic protection.

How do I care for my fan?

It is imperative to take care of the forced ventilation system. From time to time, it is necessary to check the "cravings" in the toilet and bathroom, as well as rinse the mesh from dirt. If the mesh gets clogged, the fan will not be able to work and may even break, so it is necessary to rinse the mesh with warm water and any detergent. Ordinary liquid soap will do.