Sewage diagram in a private house. Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical recommendations Sewage schemes in a private house

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When settling in country house Many communications are often installed with your own hands. There is nothing surprising about this: the process itself is quite simple, and performing the work does not require any special skills. Of course, there are certain rules that must be followed: for example, it is worth designing the structure carefully and ensuring that one communication line does not interfere with another. How to install a sewer system in private house, and will be discussed in this article.

If we talk about sewerage, the first thing you need to know is this system consists of internal and external parts, and the arrangement of each of them is carried out in its own way. External sewerage is installed somewhat easier, since the work is carried out on open space. From the inside, everything is a little more complicated, so installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands begins with it.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

The first stage of arranging a structure is planning. It is necessary to know exactly how much plumbing fixtures will be installed and where they will be installed. When carrying out work, be sure to have a pre-compiled project on hand. One rule can be immediately deduced: when installing a riser, it must be positioned as close as possible to the wall under which the sewer outlet is located. Naturally, this wall should be located on the side where the sewer well is located, which, in turn, is installed as low as possible so that it is easier for the drains to move there on their own (read also: " ").
The riser is usually made of a 110 mm pipe made of plastic. All drainage pipes are connected to the riser, through which wastewater is collected from plumbing fixtures. To connect the toilet to the system, straight sections made of 100 mm pipes are used, and other devices can be connected through various fittings using pipes with a diameter of 32 to 80 mm.

Do-it-yourself sewer installation in a private house is usually done parallel to the water line. This installation is especially convenient when communications will be installed in the walls. To do this, it is necessary to prepare grooves intended for laying pipes. There is one nuance here: the water supply system operates under some pressure, so the slope of the pipes is not a necessary condition.

The sewer system requires a slope, otherwise it simply will not work: the structure operates on a gravity principle, so the slope must be maintained in all its sections, regardless of the length of the pipelines or the location of the devices. According to regulatory documents, average value the slope should be within 2-3 cm per 1 meter of pipeline. When creating a slope, you need to carefully monitor compliance with this value, otherwise the system will very soon begin to create problems.

To connect plastic pipes, it is necessary to use fittings made of the same material: such a connection will provide the structure with sufficient strength and tightness. When laying hidden sewers, you need to not only lay the pipes in prepared grooves, but also fix them with clamps for reliability. The grooves themselves are subsequently masked with a special solution.

Do-it-yourself installation of external sewerage

To external elements sewer system includes all parts located outside the building.

Installing a sewer system in a private house requires attention, especially in the following moments:

  1. The design should have a minimum of bends and turns, so the entire highway should be made as straight as possible.
  2. If plastic pipes were used in the house, then the external sewage system should also be made of this material.
Installation of external sewerage also has some features that you will have to deal with:
  1. Large volume of excavation work. It is necessary to lay external sewerage systems taking into account the level of soil freezing: the pipes must be below this level so that negative temperatures do not provoke stagnation or rupture of the system.
  2. Creating a sewer well. Before creating a sewer system in a private house, you will need to accurately calculate the amount of drainage, which is affected primarily by the number of residents. The large expected volume of waste indicates the need to create a large reservoir, so the depth of its arrangement should be quite large.
  3. Selecting a system type. The quality of collection and disposal of wastewater, as well as the ease of operation of the sewer system will be directly influenced by its type. Each design has its own nuances: for example, a conventional cesspool has extremely low efficiency, but is very cheap, but a powerful station biological treatment will be expensive, but its performance indicators will be at top level. Read also: "".

In any case, external sewerage places special requirements on its arrangement, and they must be taken into account in order for the design to be as efficient as possible.

Carrying out excavation work

Excavation- one of the first stages of sewerage installation. You can carry out this work either independently or with the involvement of additional forces (a team of workers or special equipment). Naturally, before work it is necessary to mark the area through which the trench will pass.

In addition, it is important to pay attention to the slope of the bottom of the trench: when using technology, the required value will not be achieved, so everything will have to be leveled yourself. In any case, after preparing the trench, its bottom must be covered with a small layer of sand.

Construction of a sewer well

This design can be made from different materials: Each system has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

It is worth saying a few words about each of them:
  1. Devices made of bricks or blocks are quite good elements of the sewer system, but their installation takes a lot of time. With little experience construction work It can take several days to create a brick well.
  2. Metal structure It compares favorably with brick because of its ease of installation and lower cost, but the service life of the device in this case will be much shorter: the metal is easily susceptible to corrosion, and very soon the device will become faulty.
  3. Reinforced concrete wells are quite common structures, since their advantages include strength, reliability and durability. The disadvantage of a well made of reinforced concrete rings is complex installation: ready-made rings have considerable weight, so it is almost impossible to install them with your own hands.
  4. Plastic septic tanks can also be classified as reliable and high-quality structures: they are durable and much lighter than their reinforced concrete counterparts, so they can be installed with the efforts of 2-3 people. True, the cost of the design is slightly higher than the cost of previous devices, but the money spent will pay off in the very near future. In addition, if we take into account the labor costs of constructing, for example, concrete wells, the price will be almost equal. Read also: "".

How to install sewer pipes

Pipeline installation usually starts from the house - this makes it easier to ensure that the slope of the structure is maintained. When laying pipes, they must be connected with couplings. When connecting several drain systems into one, it is necessary to use tees or other appropriate fittings.

The last stage of laying the pipeline is connecting the main line to sewer well. For this purpose, couplings are also used to connect all pipes. external sewerage with each other and with the internal sewerage system. When the pipes are assembled and installed in their places, the trench is covered with earth, and the work is completed.

Subtleties of sewerage arrangement

There are some nuances that you have to deal with when installing a sewer system:

Soil freezing level too deep. With this phenomenon, the pipes must be laid too deep, and the volume of work will increase greatly. This phenomenon can be avoided by using thermal insulation.

It can be done in two ways:

  • with help thermal insulation materials who do this job well;
  • using electric heating, realized through a cable stretched along the entire sewer line.
The need to maintain the slope. The slope must be observed, and its value must be within specified limits. The reason for this is as follows: a slope that is too weak will not allow waste to move through the system, and the system will soon become clogged, and with a slope that exceeds the standard value, the water will move too quickly and will not be able to wash the pipes from the inside, which also leads to blockages.

Design selection. Selecting a sewer system is an individual question, and there is no universal answer to it. To make the choice of sewer more clear, it is worth reading the article about the types of sewer systems.

Conclusion

Installing a sewer system in a private house can be done with your own hands - even inexperienced craftsmen will not have any problems. And if you stock up on some knowledge and carefully prepare for the work, the design will turn out to be reliable and will be able to function for a very long time and with high quality.

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Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements And practical recommendations

Normative documents

These building regulations are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's take a look at the basic requirements of a joint venture related to private construction. Let me comment on some points based on my own experience:

  • To drain wastewater into the general sewer system, closed gravity pipelines should be used;

Sometimes the terrain makes it necessary to use sewage pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in a buffer tank, allowing the sewerage system to be operated for a limited time in the absence of power supply.

  • Pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the laying can only be changed using connecting parts;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows laying with some bending (up to approximately 10 angular degrees).
It retains elasticity even when negative temperatures, so there is no need to worry about cracks and destruction of pipes.

  • The slope of the gasket must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, solid fractions of wastewater will be retained in areas where it is minimal.
As a result, the likelihood of blockages will increase.

  • To connect the horizontal section with the riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and angles. The exception is crosses, the bends of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning if clogged.
A cable or wire, resting against the opposite wall of a straight tee, can fold or move in the direction opposite to the blockage.
An oblique tee will guide the cleaning tool in the direction of the drain.

  • Two baths on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique cross;

This is necessary so that during a volley discharge of water from one bath, water does not flow into another.
If the bathtub piping is not hermetically sealed, overflowing of the sewer can lead to flooding of the bathroom.

  • For sewerage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics that remain unchanged throughout their service life. Preferred polymer pipes(PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.);
  • In the basement, the internal sewage system is laid openly. In residential premises it is allowed to embed it in the floor, walls, ducts and shafts;

If possible, it is better to leave pipes accessible for inspection and repair. In my practice, I have encountered blockages that could only be cleared by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large fragment of thick glass stuck between the walls of a cast iron pipe.

  • The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed to its entire thickness with cement mortar;

IN wooden floor Polyurethane foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the spread of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which in certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

  • It is not allowed to embed pipes into ceilings living rooms and kitchens;
  • The internal sewage system in a private house must include ventilation risers (fan pipes), which are connected to the highest points of the system. The drain pipe is installed 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its waste part;

  • Installation of deflectors on the drain pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will indeed limit draft in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-borne debris and prevent precipitation from getting into it during a rainstorm.
For cesspool owners who pay for waste removal, the latter is quite important.

  • On a roof in use, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
  • The design of the in-house sewage system must provide for the possibility of its mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at turns;

  • On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:
Diameter, mm Pitch, m
50 8-12
100 — 150 10-15
  • If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is lower than the hatch of the nearest yard sewerage well (for example, when located in the basement or basement), the corresponding section of the sewerage system is equipped with a sewer seal or an automatic sewage pump;
  • All hydraulic devices are equipped with water seals that prevent sewer gases from entering the premises;

The connections of elbows and siphons with the sewerage system are carefully sealed with rubber sealing couplings. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

  • Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be equipped with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with an inspection or hatch (lid) for cleaning;
  • The recommended installation height for plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with mobility limitations in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, shower cabins, urinals, washing machines and dishwashers, the diameter of the connected sewer system is 50 mm. For toilets - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewer, including two bathtubs in one room, subject to simultaneous volley discharge.

Noise

The sound of water flowing in pipes is unlikely to give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help you avoid it.

  • If possible, lay horizontal sections of sewerage in the subfloor, basement or behind false walls. It is better to place risers in technical or utility rooms;

  • Where the riser passes through the living space, cover it with a plasterboard box or wall panels . It is advisable to fill the box with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, mineral wool); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foam roll insulation;
  • Instead of thin-walled PVC or polypropylene pipes, it is advisable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called silent sewer. Thanks to the mineral filler and variable layer density, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2 - 4 times higher than that of conventional PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use own system diameters, incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
  • Use sound-absorbing clamps to secure the riser equipped with porous rubber gaskets.

Installation

How to properly assemble a sewer system from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic installation rules:

  • The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm/m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm/m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter-slope will become a place of constant blockages: it will collect silt and fatty deposits;
  • The mounting points of a horizontal pipe should be no more than 8 to 10 pipe diameters apart from each other. If you increase the pitch between the clamps, the loose sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counter-slope;
  • Vertical pipes are secured with clamps under the necks of the sockets. This fastening will prevent them from moving under their own weight.

Pipe sockets and fittings must be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, onto which large-sized debris (papers, rags, etc.) that get into it can get caught.

The easiest way to cut a pipe is with a grinder. Any abrasive wheel can be used for cutting. When working in indoors do not forget to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is a below-average pleasure.

After cutting, be sure to clean the inner surface of the pipe from burrs and chamfer the outside. The burrs will begin to collect sewage-borne hair, fabric fibers, and other debris. The chamfer will significantly facilitate the assembly of the connection.

If the pipe enters the socket with great force, lubricate it liquid soap or any other lubricant water based. Do not use machine oil or other fuels and lubricants for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

When laying hidden (in boxes and false walls), it is better to assemble connections on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the socket to leak.

Ventilation

It really is necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share my own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewer system to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with the height of the system being only 4 meters, significant draft would not arise in it. In addition, all connections between plumbing fixtures and sockets were carefully sealed.

No such luck: after some time, a characteristic sewage smell appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

  1. When flushing the toilet, a stream of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
  2. The vacuum that appeared in the upper part of the riser sucked water out of the bathtub siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
  3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for septic tank aromas to enter the bathroom.

The problem was quite predictably solved by installing a drain pipe at the top point of the sewer system.

Heating

In regions with warm climates, open laying of sewer sections is often practiced. So, in Crimea with its average temperature January at +3C can often be found sewer pipes, laid between the house and the well along the ground surface. Laying pipes that provide drainage from the second floor along the facade is also practiced.

Having looked at other people’s buildings, I also laid a section of internal sewerage to the septic tank along the facade: I didn’t want to spoil the ceiling and the renovated first floor with a riser.

Alas, there are frosts in warm climates too. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating one. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe on which the cable is attached heats up.

The installation was done like this:

  • The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. By reflecting infrared radiation, it significantly reduces unnecessary heat loss;
  • Since aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally secured with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main installation requirement is to leave the end sleeve and heat shrink between the cable and the cold end outside the drain container.
They are aggressive and destructive heat shrink tube for a year or two of operation, but vinyl cable insulation perfectly tolerates long-term contact with a chemically active environment.

Conclusion

As you can see, sewer installation is not extremely complicated. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experiences in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

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Installing a sewer system in a private home with your own hands requires special care and responsibility. The degree of comfort during living and the ease of operation of the structures (the absence of constantly occurring blockages, freezing of communications, unpleasant odors and loud sounds in the room) depend on how accurately all the conditions and established rules are met.

Sewage systems for a country house are complex schemes for collecting, discharging and treating wastewater. As a rule, there are two types of sewage systems in a house.

  • Household is the collection of wastewater from the toilet, bathroom, kitchen sink and water-consuming household appliances(dishwashers and washing machines).
  • designed to collect rain and melt water. It prevents flooding of cellars and basements, damage to the foundation, excessive soil moisture and rotting of the roots of cultivated plants.

Since there are no oil and oil products in the storm drains of a private house, it is possible to combine storm and domestic sewers into one system, however, such a solution will require a larger volume of receiver (local treatment plant, septic tank or cesspool) and the associated high costs of equipment , therefore, the feasibility of such a combination is decided by each homeowner individually.

Composition of the sewer system

Any sewer system can be divided into three main parts:

  • intra-house communications, representing the combination of wastewater from each point into a single collector,
  • external (or external) pipelines connecting the point where the collector exits the house (in some cases, discharge pipes from the bathhouse or are cut into the pipeline) and the receiving device,
  • actually receiver.

When setting up a wastewater receiver, this is the most important issue.

And for installing a storm drain important element are, the types of which are described in a separate article.

You may also need 50 mm for risers for subsequent wiring.

The receiving device can be a storage facility or a purification facility.

  • carries out partial soil filtration of wastewater, however, bacteria living in the soil are able to process inclusions only if the amount of wastewater does not exceed one cubic meter per day. As well as sealed models with bottom, requiring pumping out the contents using a sewer truck, this design is more suitable for a summer residence than for a home with permanent residence.
  • Ready septic tanks famous manufacturers– these are carefully designed and field-tested structures that require cleaning much less frequently than more simple devices. You can save money by building.
  • Local wastewater treatment plants (WTP)- complex devices that are quite expensive and require connection to an electrical network, which at the same time are capable of removing and processing up to 98% of impurities from wastewater, forming water and sludge suitable for irrigation, which can be used as an organic, environmentally friendly fertilizer.

Selecting the location of the wastewater receiver and its parameters

Regardless of the type of receiver (processing device or storage device), it the volume must be at least three times the daily water consumption for everyone living in the house. Existing standards determine the average value per person - 200 liters, based on which the volume of the tank is calculated as 600 liters (200x3), multiplied by the number of people. When using treatment facilities with several tanks connected in series, their total volume is taken into account.

The installation location of the receiver is determined taking into account certain requirements.

  • The structure is installed in the lowest place of the site, if the latter has complex terrain.
  • Distances to important objects must comply with accepted standards:

- to the source drinking water– up to 50 meters (depending on the type of receiving device, groundwater level),

- to the road - at least 5 m,

— to a reservoir or other open body of water – 30 m,

- to a residential building - 5 m.


Drawing up a diagram

It is best to take care of the sewerage diagram at the design stage of the house. At that time We try to place rooms with water drainage in one sector in such a way as to reduce the length of pipes. This makes it possible to purchase fewer pipes. In addition, the short length and fewer connections simplify the circuit and reduce the likelihood of operational problems.

In order for the sewerage diagram in a private house, drawn up with your own hands, to fully comply with the requirements, and during its development, no important points, you should use ready-made plan at home or draw it on a piece of graph paper.

  • The first step in drawing up a diagram is to plot all the drain points on the plan. If there is more than one floor, a plan with the location of plumbing fixtures is drawn up floor by floor.
  • After this, the location of the common riser is marked on the diagram. Since the toilet outlet diameter is usually 110 mm and the riser has similar parameters, the latter is most often located in the toilet. This allows one more condition to be met - the length of the outlet from the toilet to the collector should not be more than 1000 mm. It is recommended, if possible, to locate the drain points closer to the riser, the larger their outlet.
  • The diagram shows the line of the collector pipeline to the point of exit from the house, which during the construction stage is installed in the foundation of the building and is equipped with a protective sleeve (a piece of pipe whose diameter is so much larger than the diameter of the collector to ensure its free entry and the presence of gaps).
  • Sewage supply lines are drawn from each drain point to the collector. Branches located nearby (for example, from a bathtub and a washbasin) can be combined into one line. The exception is the drain line from the toilet, which under any conditions should not have tie-ins from other drain points.

It is important to remember that the sewerage system in a private house must be done with a certain slope (3% for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, 2% for pipes with a diameter of 110 mm).

  • In addition to the pipelines for transporting wastewater, the installation location is indicated on the diagram.
  • A diagram of the external sewerage system is similarly applied to the site plan, taking into account the location of buildings and trees (optimally communications should pass at a distance of at least 3 meters from them). For every 10-15 meters of the highway, as well as in places where additional lines turn and tie in, an inspection well is installed.

Features of choosing pipes and fittings

The main aspect of pipe selection is the type of material. Despite the strength of cast iron products, sewer systems for private homes are increasingly less often made from this material due to their heavy weight, which makes transportation and installation difficult. Preferred are modern polymer materials.

  • Flexible and durable polypropylene tolerates well high temperatures drains, therefore excellent for internal sewerage. Typically these pipes are painted grey.
  • Polyvinyl chloride is not so resistant to high temperatures, but has high strength. Orange pipes made of this material are easily visible in the ground; they are used for external sewerage, and gray ones for internal sewerage.

Installation of internal sewerage

It is recommended to start installing a sewer system with your own hands in a private house with the installation of internal sewerage and ventilation for it.

When to organize sewerage with your own hands in country house, the laying of pipes, including the riser, can be hidden or open. In the first case, communications are located in walls, niches or boxes. Inspection hatches must be installed to allow inspection and repair. The pipes are attached to the walls using special devices(suspensions, clamps, etc.). During installation, the above-mentioned principles for choosing the parameters of system elements are observed (pipelines 110 mm for the manifold and toilet outlet, 50 mm for sinks, showers and bathtubs, oblique tees and crosses at joints), however, experts also recommend installing collectors of larger diameter (100- 110 mm) at the junctions of outlets (for example, sinks and bathtubs).

Pipes of different diameters are connected using adapters. For each drain point install water seals preventing entry into the premises unpleasant odors. Throughout all communications inside the house, special inspection tees are installed at each pipe turn.


Tip: To reduce the risk of blockages, it is recommended that when installing turns, use not one 90° fitting, but two 45° or three 30°.

For those for whom it is important to find the most complete answer to the question of how to install sewerage in a private house , information about ventilation device.

The installation of external sewer pipes is shown in the video.

Modern man is spoiled by civilization. Sewerage, which not so long ago seemed to be a component of luxury housing, has now become an integral part of almost any apartment. For those who live in multi-storey buildings comfortable houses, you don’t have to think about designing and installing this system, but it’s more difficult for owners of individual buildings. Internal sewerage is a rather complex system. The efficiency and reliability of its operation directly depends on the design and installation of the structure. How to avoid mistakes during the system development process? Let's figure it out.

Where to start construction work?

The arrangement of internal sewerage involves the installation of risers of waste pipes and the installation of piping into the premises. It is best to take care of the drainage system at the design stage of the building and locate all “wet” rooms at a minimum distance from each other. Ideally, make them adjacent, this way you can significantly simplify the arrangement of internal sewage systems. It is also important to correctly determine the location of the collector pipe to which all pipelines will converge.

Now you can begin to develop a scheme for the future sewerage system:

  • Keeping the scale in mind, we draw a plan of the building.
  • We mark on it the locations of the risers.
  • We draw on the diagram all the plumbing fixtures that we plan to install. Let's take a look at the features of their connection.
  • We draw pipelines that will connect the risers and plumbing equipment. We mark all the necessary turns, joints, etc. Be sure to indicate the connecting elements that will be required for installation: tees, bends, etc.
  • We determine the parameters of the riser and vent pipe.

In accordance with the diagram, the installation of the system will subsequently be carried out, in addition, it will help determine the quantity necessary materials.

Internal sewerage includes risers of waste pipes and piping in all interior spaces private house

Now you need to choose a pipe laying method. There can be two of them: hidden and open. In the second case, the line is mounted on a wall or floor. The first is more labor-intensive and involves making grooves in structures into which pipes are subsequently laid. When choosing this option, experts advise laying internal water and sewer pipes in one groove. The water supply is on top and the sewage system is below. This is very convenient because it reduces the time required to carry out installation work, and their volume. In addition, much less material will be required to seal the grooves.

Here is an example of such work:

Important points when designing a system

When designing internal sewerage, the following aspects must be taken into account:

  • For a gravity system, and internal sewerage is such, it must be maintained. For pipes with a diameter of 50 to 80 mm, it is 2 cm per meter; for products with a diameter of 80-100 mm, the slope increases to 3 cm per meter.
  • Drain pipes dishwasher And kitchen sink must be equipped with grease traps.
  • The toilet must be connected to the riser only with a pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm.
  • For a house with several floors, the diameter of the riser should be 100-110 mm. Cleaning hatches must be installed on it.
  • It is best if there is only one in the house sewer riser. All branches of the internal sewer system will approach it.
  • The location of the pipeline outlet is determined by the location of the collection well, which should be installed in the lowest place on the site. The outlet is located in the wall closest to the well.

By observing these simple rules you will avoid many problems.

Internal sewerage can be laid hidden or open method. The first option involves making grooves in which pipes are laid, which makes it quite difficult to install. The second is much simpler to implement, but less aesthetically pleasing.

Selecting parts for the pipeline

First of all, we determine the material from which the elements are made.

Option #1 - cast iron pipes

Some time ago there was simply no alternative to such details. Their advantages include durability (such pipes last more than half a century), high strength and fire resistance. At the same time, cast iron is not resistant enough to impact point loads, from which it should be protected whenever possible. The disadvantages of the material include very heavy weight, high cost and difficult installation. In addition, the inner surface of such pipes is rough, which promotes the deposition of layers, which over time can completely block the path of sewage.

Option #2 - polypropylene products

The advantages of such elements are resistance to all types of corrosion and solutions of salts, alkalis and acids, durability, and high heat resistance. The latter quality allows the parts to easily withstand both low and high temperatures, which makes it possible to lay them in almost any conditions.

Another advantage is increased fire resistance. Polypropylene can withstand fire for quite a long time and not emit toxic substances. Attractive and affordable price. Some difficulty is associated with the installation of parts, which requires special equipment.

The most popular are plastic pipes for sewerage. They are lightweight, easy to install and have a smooth internal surface, which prevents the appearance of build-up on the internal walls of parts.

Option #3 - PVC parts

They can be made from non-plasticized or plasticized polyvinyl chloride. The characteristics of products made from these materials are similar. The advantages of PVC pipes include a low coefficient of thermal expansion, which allows the products not to expand or sag when heated, as well as resistance to UV radiation. In addition, a very large assortment of shaped elements is produced, which makes it possible to assemble a pipeline of any configuration.

Disadvantages of products include fragility when low temperatures, low resistance to fire and the release of toxic substances during combustion, as well as sensitivity to certain chemicals.

General installation rules

Internal sewerage in a private house is arranged in accordance with a number of rules:

  • Elements of risers with a 90° rotation are assembled from two plastic elbows rotated by 45°. If a cast iron pipeline is installed, two 135° bends are used.
  • In order to be able to eliminate possible blockages in sections of the pipeline, an oblique plastic or cast iron tee at 45° with a plug and one elbow or a cast iron bend are installed. Cast iron fittings differ from plastic ones in names and gradations. For example, a plastic bend at 45° will fully correspond to a cast iron bend at 135°.
  • The outlet pipelines, which are located in the basements, under the ceiling of the premises are connected to the risers using crosses or oblique tees.
  • The height from the lower section of the horizontal socket of a tee or straight cross to the floor should be no more than 20 mm.
  • The length of the pipeline from the toilet to the riser should not be more than 1 m. For other plumbing fixtures - no more than 3.5 m.
  • To make turns on risers or at transitions to horizontal sections, you can use 90° crosses or straight tees.
  • To prevent the appearance of odors from the sewer, an exhaust hood must be installed in the room. The so-called fan pipe lead through the roof to a height of about 0.7 m. It is unacceptable to connect it to a chimney or ventilation.
  • If this is not possible, a special air valve for the sewerage system is installed.
  • The diameter of the riser must be equal to the diameter of the exhaust part. One hood can combine two or even more risers on the top floor or in the attic. Horizontal sections of such a pipeline are fixed with hanging brackets or simply wired to the rafters.
  • On risers that do not have indentations in the upper and lower floors, inspections for sewerage are installed. Standard height arrangement of the audit - 1000 mm from the floor level. If the part has to be installed in a corner of the room, it should be turned at an angle of 45° relative to the walls.
  • When installing an internal sewerage system, all plastic pipes passing through the ceilings are installed in special metal sleeves. The height of the element depends on the width of the overlap. The top of the part should protrude 20 mm from the floor level, and the bottom should be flush with the ceiling.
  • The riser is installed with the sleeve on. To prevent it from falling from the pipe, it is tied thin wire for the higher socket of the cross or tee, or they are bursting with pieces of foam plastic.
  • If it is assumed that a toilet and other plumbing fixtures will be connected in series on a horizontal section, a sewer adapter must be installed between them. Plastic parts You can't turn high. This can lead to problems with subsequent connection of equipment, especially with a shower or bathtub. On average, the turn should be carried out halfway up the socket of the tee in height with the direction towards the wall.
  • Clamps are used to secure the sewerage system. Plastic pipes are fixed in horizontal sections as necessary, so that fractures do not occur. On average, one clamp is installed per half meter - meter of line length.
  • Cast iron pipes are mounted on steel brackets with a bend at the end, which prevent the pipeline from moving. Fasteners are installed under each pipe near the socket.
  • The risers are secured to the side walls with 1-2 clamps on the floor. Fasteners are installed under the sockets.

It is important to note that upon completion of installation work, tests for tightness must be carried out.

The drain pipe can be led to the roof different ways. The diagram shows three possible options designs

Various connecting elements are used to install internal sewerage. It must be taken into account that the same cast iron and plastic elements may differ in names and markings

Sewerage – necessary element any comfortable home. Its arrangement does not require any special knowledge, but, at the same time, simple matter it cannot be named. There are many nuances and features of the system design. You should start by developing a pipeline laying diagram, which will become the basis for subsequent work and will help to correctly calculate the amount of materials needed. Already at this stage, you can assess your strengths and understand whether you will be able to cope with the work on your own or whether you will need to look for help. Many companies specialize in providing plumbing services. Professionals will quickly and competently install a sewer system of any complexity.