Instantaneous water heater for apartments and houses. Correct steps when installing and connecting an electric instantaneous water heater Connect an instantaneous water heater with your own hands

Instantaneous water heaters have firmly taken their place in the niche of water heaters. Having a number of advantages, in particular compactness, they are increasingly considered as the main device for heating water. In this material we will briefly talk about these devices and analyze the features of their connection.

Currently, there is a wide variety of devices designed to make human life more convenient and comfortable. Water heaters are designed specifically to increase the level of comfort in living conditions. If the house is not connected to a centralized hot water supply system or the hot water supply has been turned off, this is exactly the electrical appliance that will help solve the problem of hot water supply in an apartment or country house.

Modern water heating devices differ in the method of heating water and in the energy source used in operation. Each type of water heating device has its own characteristics.

Using hot water has long become the norm in our daily lives. However, a planned shutdown of hot water in a city apartment or the lack of central water supply in country houses creates everyday inconveniences in the kitchen, bathroom, and shower.

With the modern level of production of household water heaters (instantaneous and storage boilers), problems with interruptions or lack of hot water can be solved simply and, with certain skills, with your own hands. It is enough to calculate the amount of warm water consumed, wisely choose the type of heater, install it correctly and connect it to the water supply.

Let’s try to figure out which connection diagram for an instantaneous water heater or boiler is best for this or that case.

Let's start with the classification of water heaters

By source of energy used:

electrical;
gas type (connected to the gas main);
on solid or liquid fuel (coal, firewood, peat, diesel fuel);
indirect heating (use the energy of other heat sources, such as central heating systems, heating boilers).

By water heating method:

cumulative. They work on the principle of an electric kettle: in a container with a certain volume of cold water, a tubular electric heater is installed - a heating element, which, over a certain period of time, heats the water to the selected temperature (30-40°C) and turns off. When the water cools by 0.5-1°C, the automation turns on the heating element again and heats the water;
flow-through (“flow-through”). A small volume of water is instantly heated by passing through a pipe with a heating element. We opened the tap of the water supply system - the device turns on, hot water flows through the water supply. When the tap is closed, the heating element turns off.

Which water heater to choose: by type and power

There are many options for supplying your home with hot water yourself. Let's dwell on one of them: the house is provided with hot water (DHW), but sometimes, for a short period, it can be turned off. Then the best option would be to install an instantaneous electric water heater (EVH). Compactness and speed of heating water are the main arguments in its favor. But these advantages of an instantaneous water heater are not given just like that, but due to the high power of the device and the creation of an additional load (albeit short-term) on the electrical network. You can calculate the required power of the water heater using the following approximate scheme:

Power is calculated using the formula: P = G*Δt / 14.3, where

P—heater power, kW;

G—water consumption, l/min;

Δt—water temperature increase, °C; Δt = T-tin, T - outlet temperature, tin - inlet temperature.

Even with the minimum “hand washing” mode (Δt take 35 - 10 = 25) we will need power: P = 2 * 25/14.3 = 3.5 kW. Note that in houses with electric stoves, the permissible total power load on the wiring is 6-8 kW, and in “Khrushchev” buildings - 3.5 kW. Therefore, in order to avoid knocking out plugs, when choosing a “flow duct” with a power greater than that allowed for your electrical wiring, take care of a separate electrical cable and the need to install an additional circuit breaker.

So, after a small portion of theory, you can choose a instantaneous water heater yourself (photo 1). Most of them are wall-mounted and are equipped with nozzles for faucets, kitchens, and showers. If low-power flow-through EWHs (2.5-3.5 kW) are used, then you can connect them with your own hands through a regular outlet. The approximate performance of the EWH (l/min) will be as follows:

summer period with inlet water temperature tin = +15°C;

winter period with inlet water temperature tin = +5°C.

Yes, a thin trickle of water. But washing your hands, rinsing off or washing dishes after yourself (not at the same time) is quite possible without a separate electrical cable from the panel on the landing and installation of additional electrical protection.

With year-round and, especially, simultaneous use of several water intake points, the power of 3-6 kW of a flow-through EWH will no longer be enough. And then you will have to install a more powerful device (7-15 kW), which will require a separate cable and a circuit breaker.

How to connect a flow-through EWH

Installation of an instantaneous water heater can be divided into three stages:

Install the device on the wall;
Calculation of power supply and its connection;
Connecting the system to risers.

For installation you will need tools (photo 3) and materials:

drill, drill bits for concrete;
hammer;
screwdriver;
gas key;
open-end wrench;
pliers;
metal-plastic pipe and tee to it;
faucet and valve;
fum tape or tow for sealing the threaded connection;
Euro socket with grounding contact.

So, let's get to work:

Typically, an electric water heater is mounted on the wall as close as possible to the faucet in the kitchen or bathroom to reduce heat loss. It is advisable to install the heater above the highest point from which water flows out (photo 2). Using a bracket and mounting screws, the heater is fixed to the wall. The small size and weight of the EWH allow you to perform all fastening operations yourself.
Electrical connection is the main point of the entire installation. We start with the power of the device indicated on its back wall.
Yes, for example, it is equal to 6 kW. We use the power formula: P = I * U (power = current * voltage). At a voltage of 220 V, the current consumed by the water heater is: I = P / U, 6000 / 220 = 27.3 A, while standard sockets can withstand up to 16 A. This means that you need a separate line from the panel on the landing and a circuit breaker for our device. We calculate the cross-section of the additional cable wires using the ratio: a copper wire with a cross-section of 1 mm² is designed for 10 A. The calculation for our example gives the cross-section: 27.3 / 10 = 2.73 mm². After rounding we get 3 mm². We choose a standard PVS cable (3x4) with three cores. The cross-section of each core is 4 mm². Connecting the cable to the EWH and the panel yourself does not cause problems: a wire in a white braid is to the phase (L or F), a wire in a blue braid is to zero (N), a yellow-green wire is grounding (photo 4).

Connection to the water supply system is carried out in two ways:

Stationary method: provides the supply of hot water to the bathroom and kitchen when the central hot water supply (DHW) is turned off or is unavailable. The EWH is connected to the water supply system using 2 tees (cut into cold and hot water pipes), 2 valves and metal-plastic pipes. After such a simple installation, we check the tightness of the system with our own hands (open the mixer and taps, including in front of the EWH), then turn off the hot water riser and apply voltage. Note that the EWH must be equipped with a safety check valve, which regulates the pressure in the system and prevents water from draining back into the central pipe. When the EWH is turned on, taps “1”, “3”, “4” are open, tap “2” is closed.

The water heater is not used: taps “1”, “2” are open, “3”, “4” are closed (diagram in photo 5); temporary connection involves the use of only a shower hose (included in the kit), which is connected to the heated water outlet of the EWH.

So, a small amount of information and basic knowledge of tools allows you to understand the operation of the EWH, calculate it and do some of the work yourself.

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Do-it-yourself instantaneous water heater installation

Installation begins with determining the location. We take a level, a pencil and mark the location of future installation. We remove the top cover from the water heater and apply it to the wall, level it horizontally and mark future holes. Using a drill, we drill holes for dowels (or plugs - as you like). We install dowels and fasten the device to the wall with screws.

Usually, the kit includes the necessary fasteners, but it often happens that the dowels themselves are short (for example, there is a thick layer of plaster on the wall) and the screws themselves are short, so I would recommend purchasing the necessary fasteners of the required size in advance. At this point the installation can be considered complete.

Connecting an instantaneous water heater to the water supply

An electric instantaneous water heater can be connected to water in several ways.

Method one is simple

We take the shower hose, unscrew the “watering can” and connect the hose to the cold water inlet of the water heater. Now, by setting the mixer handle to the “shower” position, we can use the water heater. If we put the handle in the “faucet” position, then cold water comes out of the tap, bypassing the heater. As soon as the centralized supply of hot water is restored, we disconnect the water heater from the “shower”, screw the shower head back on and continue to enjoy the benefits of civilization.

The second method is more complex, but more correct.

Connecting the water heater to the apartment's water supply through the outlet for the washing machine. To do this, we use a tee and a skein of fulente or thread. After the tee, to disconnect the water heater from the water and to regulate the pressure and temperature of the water from the water heater, a tap is needed.

When installing a faucet, you should also pay attention to the ease of use of the latter. After all, we will open and close it repeatedly in the future.

The section of our water supply from the tap to the water heater can be installed using a variety of pipes: from metal-plastic and PVC to conventional flexible pipes. The fastest way, of course, is to make the liner using flexible hoses. If necessary, our water supply can be secured to the wall (or other surfaces) using staples or some other means of fastening.

How to install an electric instantaneous water heater - video

Connecting an instantaneous water heater to the electrical network

As a rule, household single-phase instantaneous water heaters are very powerful devices - from 3 to 9 kW. Accordingly, for proper connection you will need a dedicated line (necessarily with a separate RCD for emergency shutdown), since a regular one will not withstand such voltage.

It is prohibited to use standard sockets for power supply, due to the fact that in most cases they do not have proper grounding.

When connecting wires to screw terminals, the phasing must be observed:

— L, A or P1 — phase;

- N, B or P2 - zero.

It is not recommended to carry out electrical installation work yourself; it is better to use the services of a specialist.

Tags: Water heater

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Installation and connection to the water supply

A boiler is a storage water heater. It is placed in the kitchen or bathroom: hung on anchors or dowels with screws, which are included in the kit.

How to connect an electric water heater to the water supply system? The installation work is reminiscent of attaching a regular kitchen cabinet. But you need to connect pipes and electricity to it.

Metal-plastic pipes are suitable for connecting a storage water heater to a water supply system, as well as for creating a consumer hotline (which pipes to choose for water supply in an apartment). They bend perfectly by hand with little effort. To avoid creating an oval at the bend, it is better to buy a special spring.

The connecting connections are removable. Therefore, redesigning your home plumbing will not be difficult.

The transition to metal-plastic is done using a fitting that is screwed onto an iron pipe.

Inlet and outlet units

How to properly connect a water heater to the water supply? To do this, auxiliary units are placed on one pipe entering the boiler and on the other exiting it.

What is placed on the inlet pipe?

Cold water is supplied to the heating tank in the same way as to a bath or kitchen sink faucet. Using a tee, a separate branch of the water supply system is created, coming from the consumer line. This is the inlet pipe into the tank, on which a check valve is installed, preventing the outflow of heated water into the cold line.

When connecting a water heater to the water supply, taps are placed before the valve and behind it: the one that is higher (closer to the boiler) is a drain, and the one below is a shut-off valve. If it is necessary to remove the boiler, then turn off the water supply with one tap, and drain it from the tank through the other.

Valve Features

Often a check valve is combined with a safety valve in one L-shaped body. This results in one unit.

The safety valve releases water when the pressure in the tank reaches above the permissible level.

There are modifications with a lever (flag) that can be used to open the water outlet from the boiler and release water from it. With this design of the valve, the drain valve will be superfluous.

Place a transparent polyvinyl chloride (PVC) hose over the fitting through which the water will drain and lower it into a suitable container or sink.

Heaters with a volume of more than 60 liters can be sold complete with shut-off taps and valves. Therefore, it is better to buy spare parts after purchasing a boiler.

When installing any valve, pay attention to the arrow shown on the body. It shows the direction of water movement.

At the boiler outlet

How to connect the boiler to the water supply at the outlet of the tank? The beginning of the line of hot water consumers is the outlet pipe from the heating tank. Sometimes a shut-off valve is placed on it. But this is not necessary.

To drain the water when dismantling the boiler, only one of the shut-off valves is sufficient: the one installed on the inlet pipe. The remaining water will go away after opening the valves (hot line) of the faucets in the bathroom and kitchen.

Electrical connection

How to properly connect the boiler to the water supply? It is necessary to lay a separate electrical wiring line from the panel. It consists of a three-wire wire (phase, neutral, ground) and switching devices: RCD, double circuit breaker (how to choose a circuit breaker). An outlet is installed near the boiler.

The double circuit breaker opens zero and phase simultaneously. This occurs during overload and short circuit (short circuit). An RCD (residual current device) interrupts the supply of electricity to consumers in the event of a current leak.

The machine protects equipment from overheating and burnout, and the RCD saves a person from electric shock if the insulation is broken.

Both protection devices complement each other. Therefore, when connecting a water heater to the water supply, they are placed together. But they can be replaced by one switching device - a difavtomat (differential circuit breaker), which protects against both leakage and short-circuit and overload. This is cheaper and reduces installation time.

Manufacturers can supply RCDs along with the boiler. Then it is logical to purchase a circuit breaker for it and install both devices.

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Where to install an instantaneous water heater

Installation of an instantaneous water heater in the kitchen under the sink

Think ahead - Will it be convenient for you to supply water to the device?.
There are no special complaints about the wall - the weight of the devices is quite small (even the most powerful 24 kW models weigh only 4 kg). Therefore, any wall can withstand such a load. Of course, if the surface is completely curved, then it will be quite difficult to hang it on.
See that in the place of your choice splashes and drops of water did not reach the device. After all, the degree of protection of the case is different for all models - some will withstand even a stream of water, while others will be short-circuited by even a couple of drops. Therefore, it is better to think about this moment in advance.
Consider the ease of use of the water heater. Will it be comfortable for you to use it: turn it on and off, select different modes, if available, and also use the shower/faucet.

Equipment installation tools

The entire installation process can be divided into 3 stages and you will need the following equipment.

For mounting the water heater on the wall:

To connect an instantaneous water heater to the electrical network:

Many manufacturers indicate the parameters of a suitable wire in the instructions. If you do not find such data, be sure to consult an electrician. He will provide an accurate calculation of the suitable cable.

To connect to the water supply:

Installing a water heater on a wall

Having chosen a place, you need to secure the device. For this we just need a level with a pencil.

First, remove the top cover from the water heater and place it level against the wall. Use a pencil to mark the places where the holes will be later. On average, the distance between these holes is 180 mm. Next, they need to be drilled using a hammer drill or screwdriver. Install the dowels and complete the installation of the device.

How to connect an instantaneous water heater to a water supply

There are 2 options for how you can connect the device to water.

1 – elementary

Used as a temporary measure during interruptions in the supply of hot water.

In this case, everything is outrageously simple. You simply unscrew the shower head from the hose and this hose is connected to the cold water inlet of the unit. In general, the connection is complete.

So, if you switch the faucet to “shower”, then you activate the water heater and can use its hot water. If you chose “faucet”, then cold water will flow out of it, bypassing the heater.

Once the hot water supply has been restored, you can screw the watering can back on and restore everything as it was.

2 – correct, but difficult

Installation diagram of instantaneous water heater

In this case we will use a washing machine outlet. For this we need a tee and FUM tape. After installing the tee, you need to install a tap in the line. It is necessary to control the water pressure, as well as its temperature.

The new water supply from the tap to the water heater can be made either from a flexible line, which will be easier and faster, but less reliable, or from metal-plastic or PVC.

Install the faucet so that it can be easily reached, as you will need to use it often in the future..

When connecting the flow duct, use only the attachments included in the kit. Using third-party faucets is strictly prohibited! Only attachments supplied by the manufacturer provide absolute electrical safety, unlike conventional taps. Believe me, among the current assortment you will certainly find a model with the necessary attachments.

Connecting an instantaneous water heater to the network

The first thing you need to do is look at the rated current of the circuit breaker mounted at the entrance to your apartment or house. For example, you have a single-phase 220V network and a 16A meter. The maximum permissible power can be 16*220=3.52 kW. This means that the total power of all appliances in the house cannot exceed this figure. Simply put, the machine will simply “cut out”.

As a result, it turns out that the power of the instantaneous water heater that your set will withstand cannot exceed 2-3 kW. That is, it is only enough to barely wash your hands. And that's only in the summer.

What to do in this case? The answer is quite simple: you should make new wiring in the apartment. You will need:

— install a new power cable at the entrance to the house;

— replace the circuit breakers on the input and output lines with circuit breakers with a rating of at least 50 A.

Be sure to install an RCD! Your safety when using this electrical appliance depends on this. So, for a single-phase water heater with a power of no more than 6 kW, a 32A RCD with a shutdown current of 30 mA is suitable.

Selecting a wire for connecting an instantaneous water heater

In this table we provide data for a single-phase copper cable with 2 cores:

Instantaneous water heater power, kW
Current strength, A
Rated current value of the circuit breaker, A
Smallest core cross-section, sq.mm.

The data in the table is valid for copper cable! If you choose aluminum, then all parameters need to be increased by 1.3-1.5 times!

As we already said at the beginning of the article: it is forbidden to plug the instantaneous water heater into a regular outlet, as it will not ensure proper grounding of the device.

Simply open the water heater and you will see the terminal block: it is to this that you need to connect the cores of the selected wire.

Be sure to follow the connection by phase: L, A or P1 is a phase.

N, B or P2 is zero.

To make it easier for you to understand, we will explain with an example. For a 220V instantaneous water heater with a power of up to 6 kW, the current should not exceed 27A. Therefore, we choose a PVS 3x4 wire, three-core, with a cross-sectional area of 4 sq. mm.

When connecting to the phase, connect a cable with a white sheath, to the working zero - a wire in a blue sheath, and to ground - a wire in a yellow-green sheath.

1. Select and measure as accurately as possible the location where you plan to install the water heater.

2. Determine how many water points the water heater will operate on (bathroom sink, kitchen sink, shower, etc.) - this directly affects the choice of power and the connection process.

3. Be sure to find out the electrical wiring capabilities of your apartment - cable cross-section and material, maximum permissible load. If you don't know how to do this yourself, consult an electrician. This is especially important if you choose a tankless water heater. It is necessary to understand that if the capabilities of the existing electrical wiring are insufficient, you will need to lay a new separate cable from the electrical panel to ensure a safe connection. An important fact is the grounding of the device.

Calculation of the cross-section of the electrical cable for connecting electrical appliances.

Connecting high-power household appliances necessarily requires laying a separate electrical cable from the distribution panel.

Remember! If you try to connect a powerful instantaneous water heater to a washing machine outlet or to an outlet that contains an electric stove, you risk burning out the wiring, which in turn can lead to a fire.

Using the table, you can select the minimum cable cross-section that should be used to connect your electrical appliance. The table assumes the use of a copper cable with a voltage of 220 V, 1 phase, 2 cores.

Attention: if instead of copper you use aluminum wire, you must apply a magnifying factor of 1.3-1.5.

4. If your tap water is not of good quality, it is highly recommended to install filters that purify the water before entering the water heater. Otherwise, the “life” of the water heater will be significantly less than that declared by the manufacturer.

5. Determine for yourself the type of water heater (storage or instantaneous), choose a design (round, rectangular, flat, etc.), and also decide on performance. See advice on How to choose a water heater.

6. Depending on the installation location of the storage water heater, determine whether you need a wall-mounted or floor-mounted, vertical or horizontal water heater.

7. If you plan to install the device yourself, you will need to purchase additional materials (electrical wire, automatic power switch, water supply, taps, etc.).

In any case, the installation of a specific storage or instantaneous water heater must be carried out strictly in accordance with the instructions supplied with the device. It describes the required number of holes on the wall, the number and features of fasteners, the sequence of connecting hoses, their size and location (vertically, horizontally), as well as other important information.

8. The storage water heater must be especially firmly fixed on hooks (bolts), without the possibility of moving to the sides.

9. All connections between the water heater and the water supply must be sealed.

10. The water supply can be connected to a plastic, metal-plastic, steel or copper pipe. It is not recommended to use flexible hoses with rubber hoses due to their rapid wear.

11. When turning on the instantaneous water heater, you must make sure that there is water in the water supply. When turning on the storage water heater, you need to make sure that the tank is full.

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How to connect a water heater to the water supply and electrical network with your own hands

The procedure for connecting electric heaters is described in detail in the user manual that comes with the device. But, before you start familiarizing yourself, you should correctly choose the most suitable device. Let's look at the types of boilers, their features and connection rules.

Flow type

Flow-through electric heaters are compact devices that do not take up much space (which is especially important for small rooms) and are easy to use. They produce spot heating of a section of the pipeline without accumulating water in the container. At the same time, the load on the electrical networks from them is maximum with a power consumption range of 3–27 kW. It is often said that the use of flow-through heaters can ruin the owner, since the amount of electricity required for their operation is very large. In practice, it turns out that the maintenance of such devices is not much more expensive than any other, since water is heated directly during use, so the duration of high loads on the electrical network is relatively short. The disadvantage of flow-through heaters is their limited use - they can generally only be used for shower heads or faucets.

Installation of a flow-through heater can be divided into several stages:

Choosing a location. Flowers should not be installed far from water collection points to prevent heat loss when water flows through pipelines. At the same time, it should not be placed too close to taps or shower heads; splashes of water should not fall on the device. You need to choose the installation location so that it is convenient to use both the water heater and the tap (shower).
Connection to the water supply system. Two options can be used here - a quick connection of the device to a shower hose or a more complex one - through a tee for a washing machine, which opens up great possibilities. In the first case, only a shower can be provided with hot water, in the second - several water points. It is also possible to make a branch from the cold water pipeline to supply water to the inlet pipe of the device, but this option is quite labor-intensive, and it is advisable to use it only for high-power devices.
Power connection. This moment is the most crucial. Flowers are powerful devices; ordinary lines cannot be used to operate them. It is necessary to draw a separate circuit with a thick copper wire with a cross-section of about 4 mm 2 (for powerful devices from 9 kW - 6 mm 2). You will also need a separate circuit breaker (RCD - residual current device).

For any type of heater, grounding is required. The use of conventional sockets is prohibited when the device power is higher than 3 kW.

Installation of the device on the wall is carried out according to the user manual.

Usually you need to remove the cover, mark the centers of the holes, drill them and insert dowels. You cannot install the heater on drywall or thin wooden partitions; you need a strong support - a concrete or brick wall.
After installation, it is necessary to connect the cold water supply pipes (to the heater inlet) and to the outlet - a shower hose or a hot water pipeline going to the taps.
To adjust the heating mode, it is recommended to install a tap at the inlet (cold water supply). A tap must not be installed at the outlet unless the instructions indicate otherwise.

How to connect a storage water heater

Storage electric heaters are containers with water heated using heating elements (tubular electric heaters). They are metal tubes that are filled with a conductive electrical insulator with a conductive thread in the center. Heating elements heat the liquid, converting electrical energy into thermal energy.

When using boilers with large tanks, you do not have to wait for the next portion of water to heat up during active water withdrawal. But, the larger the volume, the greater the load on the power grid, and, accordingly, the cost of paying bills. In addition, the dimensions of storage boilers with large capacities are quite impressive and require a spacious room.

The power consumption of storage heaters is relatively low, about 1–2 kW. However, when purchasing a boiler, you should carefully examine the wiring so that the additional load does not have a fatal effect on its condition.

Storage devices have undeniable advantages over flow devices:

The ability to provide several water collection points, to create a full-fledged hot water system in a house or apartment.
The thermally insulated housing allows you to maintain hot water for a long time even during power outages.

There are also disadvantages:

The water heating time increases, especially when using large containers.
The size and weight of heaters place increased demands on supporting structures or surfaces.

Installation of storage electric heaters:

Installation of the device. It should be done in a convenient place where there is access to the device for replacing burnt-out heating elements or other repairs and maintenance of the device. There are no fundamental requirements for the proximity of water points, so you can install a storage heater in such a way that it does not violate the aesthetics of the interior design, if the area of your home allows it. Devices with a small tank volume can be installed under the sink in the bathroom or kitchen. The only limiting factor is the location of water pipes and electrical wiring, but these issues can be resolved quite easily.
Connection of inlet and outlet pipelines.
Power connection. To do this, it is necessary to provide a separate line with an RCD machine. Prolonged loads can damage worn wiring. The line cross-section should be calculated based on the power consumption of the heater.

The distance from the outlet to the sink or bathtub must be at least 1 m.

Connecting to the water supply can be done in two ways:

Connecting the cold water pipeline to the inlet through a splitter. The output is connected to the internal domestic hot water system of the house. This option is good for a private house where there is no centralized hot water supply.
Insertion of the outlet pipe into the DHW system. Cold water from the riser is supplied to the inlet of the heater, and hot water from the outlet goes into the domestic hot water pipe. The connection to the hot water riser is closed with a tap during this time. The method is good for houses or apartments with an existing centralized water supply of both hot water supply and hot water supply. It becomes possible to provide yourself with hot water during outages or interruptions, but, if necessary, use centralized resources.

The water pressure in a centralized cold water system may be too high for the heater. It is necessary to clarify this issue by studying the passport or instructions for the device, and, if necessary, install a reduction gearbox. If a private house does not have a centralized supply of cold water, then the heater can be connected to a storage tank installed at a height (usually on the roof or a separate structure). The main condition for such a connection is to ensure that the height difference between the tank and the heater is at least 2 m. If this requirement cannot be met, you must at least raise the tee (splitter) above the level of the heater. The outlet pipeline of the container is connected through a tee to the cold water distribution and to the heater inlet, and the outlet of the device is connected to the hot water distribution.

Video: installation of a storage boiler

Connecting the combined unit

The design of combined devices (they are also called indirect heating boilers) combines a flow-type water heater and a heat exchanger. Hot water is passed through a coil located inside the main water container, giving it thermal energy. Due to the large length of the coil, which provides a large area of contact between the walls and the water from the tank, heating is quite effective, allowing one to obtain sufficient quantities of hot water.

Since the coolant is produced on the principle of a flow-through heater, electricity consumption will be high, which will require electrical wiring of sufficient cross-section in good condition.

To supply a private home, it is not advisable to purchase a large heater, since when heating the water in the tank, a flow-through heating mechanism will be activated, which will create a rather long and high load on the electrical network. It will be necessary to create a separate line with powerful RCDs; the wire cross-section is selected according to the total power of the device with a 10% safety margin. Large and prolonged loads mean high costs for hot water supply, which is not affordable for everyone. In addition, the general deterioration of electrical networks does not favor the use of large combined heaters.

There are wall and floor heaters. As a rule, wall-mounted ones have a smaller volume and weight, while floor-mounted ones are larger in size. Connecting the device to the water supply practically does not differ from the method of connecting storage devices, and the power supply features are the same as for flow-through heaters.

Video: operating principle and connection of the combined unit

Features of operation and maintenance

The main problem is choosing the most suitable device that can meet the hot water supply needs of the house and not empty the owner’s wallet too much. Before purchasing, you should roughly calculate the allowable cost, take into account the cost of electricity, and the daily need for hot water. The purchased device should provide comfort and not create problems.

The heaters are operated in accordance with the instructions that come with the devices. You should study it carefully and strictly follow the rules of use. This will help increase the service life of the heater, eliminate errors, and reduce wasteful energy consumption.

Most modern devices can be controlled using a remote control. Simpler samples, especially those that use heating elements, are adjusted by direct contact, so it is recommended to install them in places accessible for repair work, so as not to turn a simple adjustment into a complex and time-consuming procedure.

Over time, limescale deposits form on the surface of the heating elements and the walls of the containers. It reduces the efficiency of the heating elements, forcing the automation to overload them with work, causing them to fail prematurely. Special products should be used to clean scale and deposits. From the outside, wipe the surface with a damp cloth, if the instructions allow, use a mild detergent. Maintenance and external cleaning is carried out only when the power supply is turned off.

Connecting an electric water heater is not very difficult and can be done independently. The main task is to correctly select the device, taking into account the state of the electrical networks, the needs of users for hot water and the capabilities of the equipment. The correct selection of the device will be able to provide the home with hot water and not overload the electrical networks, maintaining their functionality and allowing the owner to save money on electricity.

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Installation of instantaneous water heater

How to install a instantaneous water heater with your own hands?

Every year, the time period in which you will need to live without hot water is becoming smaller, but even 10 days of inconvenience is a long enough period to think about some alternative ways to obtain hot water.

Image 1. Diagram of an instantaneous water heater: 1 – heating element, 2 – switch, 3 – power supply terminals, 4 – rotary compressor, 5 – connection to the water supply, 6 – heated water outlet, 7 – holes required to connect the device to the wall.

When it comes to somehow surviving several weeks in relative comfort, installing a tankless water heater may be the ideal solution. Its main advantage is ease of installation. Absolutely anyone who has only general knowledge about plumbing and electrical wiring can handle this process.

Most often, such heating devices are hung on the wall, as close as possible to the faucet in the kitchen or bathroom, so that heat loss can be minimized. Flow-through heaters, compared to storage heaters, are quite light in weight, and therefore do not require particularly strong mounting. Ordinary brackets and mounting screws may also be suitable. Flow-through heating devices are located both above and below the sink or sink. For both cases, the connection diagram must be indicated in the instructions that come with the device itself.

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Advantages and disadvantages of such a design, the installation of which can be done independently

Advantages of a running water heating device:

Quite small in size compared to storage water heaters.
Easier installation process.
The cheapness of such a device.

Disadvantages of an instantaneous water heater:

Quite high electricity consumption - from 5 to 30 kilowatts (most often from 5 to 8 kilowatts, but in some cases it can reach up to 30).
The need for high water pressure in the system, otherwise there is a possibility that the device will burn out.
Due to the previous problem, it is impossible to use such a device on the upper floors of multi-storey residential buildings.

If a small family lives at a low altitude and there is no space in the apartment to install a storage heater, the owner’s choice should be made in favor of instantaneous water heaters.

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Do-it-yourself installation of instantaneous water heaters: tools

It is worth paying special attention, if any points regarding the installation of an instantaneous water heater are unclear, you should not try to install the electric heater yourself in order to avoid electric shock.

Installation and further operation must be carried out in compliance with safety precautions.

Image 1. Connection diagram for instantaneous water heater.

It should be noted that a flow-through water heater must have a shower head or an ordinary one at the outlet, otherwise it will not have time to heat the water.

What will be needed in order to install an instantaneous water heater:

Instantaneous type water heater.
The hose from the shower that should be connected to the faucet to the disconnected shower head.
An electric drill that can drill holes in concrete.
Screws and dowels.
Drill for concrete to fit dowels.
Triple copper single-core electrical wire, which has a sufficient cross-section for the heater power.
Water key.
Screwdriver or screwdriver.
Pliers.
Fumilenta.

If you plan to install permanently:

A tee for diverting water to the boiler from the water supply system.
A valve that shuts off the water at the inlet of the device.
A flexible hose of the required length from the water supply to the heater.

You can also get by with a kit for installing metal-plastic pipes (pieces of pipe of the appropriate length and push-in connectors-clamps).

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Preparing an instantaneous electric water heater

First of all, you will need to select the required instantaneous water heater. There are quite a large number of devices of this type that you can install yourself. They are quite different in design and shape. However, they are all arranged approximately the same inside, and their installation always occurs in the same way.

The design of the instantaneous water heater is shown below IMAGE 1, where 1 – heating element, 2 – switch, 3 – power supply terminals, 4 – rotary compressor, 5 – connection to the water supply, 6 – heated water outlet, 7 – holes required to connect the device to wall

Any instantaneous water heater will consist of a heating element directly (which is sealed on all sides of the cylinder and from which 2 pieces of tubes with 1/2-inch threads lead, 3 terminals for connecting the carrier, neutral and ground wires), a switch or switch and a housing.

The heater that needs to be installed, depending on the model, can be equipped with a stepped and smooth rheostatic heating regulator, a safety sensor against shutdown or overheating of water, and a light indicator for turning on.

You should mark on the wall the places where you plan to attach the instantaneous water heater. They will be needed for drilling holes. Next, you need to make the appropriate number of holes, and then drive the dowels into them. Then you can begin installing the instantaneous water heater.

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Do-it-yourself instantaneous water heater installation

Installation and connection of such a device can occur in 2 ways:

Use the shower hose to turn it off as soon as the hot water comes on. In this case, switching between the water heater and the mixer tap will be done using the mixer handle. When the handle is in the shower position, water can flow from the water heater, and in the other position, as usual, from the tap.
Permanently into the apartment water supply system. In such a case, it is necessary to install a separate valve at the inlet of the water heater. It makes sense to consider this method in more detail.

It is necessary to turn off the cold water, and then install the outlet adapter using fumilent in the intended location.

The electric drive is installed in accordance with the instructions for connecting the heating electrical wiring. The other end connects the wire, for example, to a socket for a washing machine. The heating power consumption should in no case exceed the wiring capabilities of the existing apartment. Otherwise, in the process of turning on the water heater at full power, there will be a chance that plugs or circuit breakers will break.

The valve is connected to the inlet pipe of the device, and a flexible hose or cermet pipe is connected to the valve. Everything will depend on which system is planned to be installed. The pipes or hose must be connected to a specially prepared adapter. At this stage the system will be ready for operation.

Next, the faucet or shower mixer from the water heater is installed. After this, you can proceed to testing the installed device. The water pressure and power supply to the heater should be turned on. After approximately 10-15 seconds, warm or, if a sufficiently powerful device was installed, hot water may flow from the tap. Its pressure and heat can be regulated by using a valve: with increased water pressure, it can be cooler. It should be said that it is absolutely impossible to get hot water (boiling water) in a 3.5 kW appliance. The temperature at different water pressures will range from slightly warm to almost hot. It is advisable to purchase a device that has less power only if the apartment has old wiring that cannot withstand even 3.5 kW.

If the instantaneous water heater is located away from the sink, the mixer must be connected using a flexible hose and secured to an additional bracket in a place near the sink where the additional faucet cannot cause inconvenience.

To ensure uninterrupted hot water supply in an apartment or country house, you need to install a water heater. Manufacturers offer a huge selection of water heating devices. The most economical and easiest to install are flow-through models that run on electricity. In order to carry out installation work independently, the apartment owner must know how to connect the instantaneous water heater to the water supply and electrical network.

Installation work consists of three stages:

mounting a flow-through electrical appliance on a wall or sink;
connection to water supply;
connection to the electrical network.

Taking into account the specifics of each stage of installation work, the necessary tools and materials are selected:

Instantaneous water heaters, to which several water points are connected, are mounted on the wall. For installation you will need an electric impact drill, a set of drills, a screwdriver, a hammer, and a level. Dowels and screws usually come with the product.
Flow-through electrical appliances are characterized by high power and require a separate line. The materials you will need are a three-core copper cable with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm 2, an RCD, and electrical tape. Tools that will be useful are a screwdriver, pliers, a tester, and a wall chaser for cutting grooves when laying a new wiring line.
The connection to the water supply is made with a metal-plastic pipe or flexible hose. The threaded connection is sealed with tow or fumig tape. Tools you need to have are an adjustable wrench and a set of open-end wrenches, scissors for cutting metal-plastic pipes, a screwdriver, and pliers.

All materials and tools are prepared in advance so that they are at hand.

How to install an instantaneous water heater

The process of installing a instantaneous water heater with your own hands includes a preparatory period. First of all, it is important to correctly determine the model. To choose a device that best suits its characteristics, take into account the following factors:

the number of people living in the house;
maximum hot water flow with all taps open at the same time;
number of water points;
required temperature of water leaving the tap.

Having a clear understanding of the requirements, you can begin to select an instantaneous heater of suitable power. Separately, it is worth paying attention to other nuances: complexity of installation, price, maintainability and availability of spare parts for sale.

Organization of power supply

The power of household instantaneous heaters varies from 3 to 27 kW. Old electrical wiring will not withstand such a load. While a non-pressure device rated at 3 kW can still be connected to an existing electrical network, powerful pressure models require a separate line.

A powerful water heater cannot be connected to an outlet. A straight line is laid from the device to the electrical panel. An RCD is provided in the circuit. The circuit breaker is selected according to the power of the flow-through electrical appliance. According to the standard, the indicator is 50–60 A, but you need to look at the instructions for the device.

The cable cross-section is selected similarly, taking into account the heater power, but not less than 2.5 mm 2. It is better to take a copper wire and definitely a three-core one. The instantaneous water heater cannot be used without grounding.

Choosing an installation location

The choice of location for the water heater is determined by the convenience and safety of using the device:

When installing a water heater in an apartment, it is important to choose a place so that there is easy access to the device. There are control buttons on the body. All family members will set the optimal water temperature according to their preference.
The installation of the electrical appliance is carried out in such a way that splashes of water do not fall on its body when using a shower or sink.
The device is placed as close as possible to the water points and electrical panel, taking into account convenient connection to the water supply.

The choice of installation location depends on the type of flow device:

Non-pressure low-power models are designed to connect one water point. The water heater is often designed as a faucet installed on the sink. Non-pressure models are mounted under the sink or on the side of the sink. The device can be equipped with a hose and shower head. It would be optimal to install a instantaneous water heater in the bathroom near the shower stall. When the question arises, how to connect a non-pressure instantaneous water heater, there is only one answer - as close to the mixer as possible.
Powerful pressure models are capable of providing hot water to more than two water points. It is allowed to install an electrical appliance near a cold water riser. With this scheme, hot water will flow to all taps in the apartment.

The presence of IP 24 and IP 25 markings on the water heater means protection from direct contact with jets of water. However, it's not worth the risk. It is better to place the electrical appliance in a safe, dry place.

Wall mounting

The instantaneous water heater is installed on the wall using the hanging method. The product includes dowels with self-tapping screws, a mounting strip, and brackets. When installing an electric instantaneous water heater, two important nuances are taken into account:

Support strength. A wall made of solid materials is ideal. The device is characterized by light weight. It can even be mounted on a plasterboard wall. The main thing is that the partition does not wobble, and a mortgage is provided under the gypsum board for reliable fixation of the brackets.
During installation, ensure that the body of the flow device is perfectly horizontal. At the slightest tilt, an air lock forms inside the water heater chamber. A heating element not washed with water in this area will quickly burn out.

Installation work begins with markings. The fastening strip is applied to the wall and the drilling holes are marked with a pencil. It is important at this stage to set the level horizontally. Holes are drilled according to the markings, plastic dowels are driven in with a hammer, and then the fastening strip is screwed in with self-tapping screws. The supporting base is ready. Now all that remains is to attach the water heater body to the bar.

Connecting the water heater to the water supply

Since devices are of pressure and non-pressure types, connecting an instantaneous water heater to a water supply system is carried out in two ways.

Easy connection of a gravity heater

For example, consider the connection to a shower stall. Let’s say the hot water is turned off in the apartment, and you urgently need to buy:

the shower head is unscrewed from the hose and screwed to the cold water inlet pipe of the flow-through heater;
to use the water heater, switch the mixer handle to the “shower” position;
To use cold water past the heater, the mixer handle is moved to the “tap” position.

After the appearance of a centralized hot water supply, the non-pressure water heater is disconnected, and the watering can is screwed onto the shower stall mixer hose.

The correct connection diagram is shown on the left. The wrong connection is shown on the right. The diagram contains a tap on the outlet pipe of hot water from the non-pressure water heater. Shut-off valves cannot be placed in front of the shower head.

Correct connection of the pressure heater

A pressure water heating device is installed near the riser. If the water supply wiring allows, it is easier to make the connection using a tee at the outlet where the washing machine is connected. In any case, a ball valve is installed near the centralized hot water riser. When using the water heater, the shut-off valves are moved to the “closed” position. Additionally, taps are installed near the cold water riser, as well as at the inlet and outlet pipes of the flow-through heater.

To connect the device from the tap on the water supply, unscrew the washing machine hose along with the tap. A bronze tee is screwed onto the thread of the outlet. A tap is screwed into the side outlet, and the washing machine hose is connected to it. A fitting is screwed to the second outlet of the tee, a piece of metal-plastic pipe is fixed and it is brought to the cold water inlet tap on the water heater.

Electrical connection

To connect the instantaneous water heater to the electrical network, use a three-core cable (2 in the figure). A non-pressure model with a power of 3 kW can be connected to an outlet, but there must be a ground connection. A powerful pressure-type device is connected to a separate line. It is laid during repairs. For the wiring, grooves are cut with a wall chaser from the location of the water heater to the electrical panel.

Wires are connected to the terminals according to the color of the insulation:

zero (N) – blue wire;
phase (L) – red or brown wire;
grounding – wire in green insulation with yellow stripes.

The RCD and circuit breaker are placed inside the electrical panel. After installing the electrical wiring, the line is checked with a tester. The ground loop must have a resistance of 4 ohms. Voltage is supplied to the water heater after it is filled with water, in order to avoid burnout of the heating element.

Common installation errors

Any person without plumbing skills or experience working with electricity can install an instantaneous electric water heater. In order for the device to work properly, it is important to take into account a number of common installation errors:

if there is no desire to lay a separate line, the general electrical wiring is overloaded, which leads to its burnout;
connecting to the water supply with low-quality pipes with a narrowed cross-section threatens flooding of the apartment and failure of the heater;
if the power of the electrical appliance is incorrectly selected, cold water flows from the tap or there is excessive consumption of electricity;
wires mixed up at the terminals form a short circuit;
If the water heating device is installed far from the water supply point, you have to drain a lot of cold water until the liquid reaches the desired temperature.

Installation errors are thought through even before choosing a model, as well as the location of the water heater.

A instantaneous water heater takes up little space in the apartment. The electrical appliance is convenient for use as an auxiliary source of hot water when the centralized hot water supply is turned off.

Hot water supply in an apartment, country house or private house is rarely stable and uninterrupted. Repairs, accidents, breaks for pressure testing or other seasonal work cause frequent problems with the supply of hot water. In cottages and private houses there is often no possibility of even connecting to the highway, which forces them to look for other options. You can connect a water heater, which eliminates such problems, but it creates a considerable load on the electrical network, the state of which should be taken into account when choosing the power of the device.

How to connect a water heater to the water supply and electrical network with your own hands

The procedure for connecting electric heaters is described in detail in the user manual that comes with the device. But, before you start familiarizing yourself, you should correctly. Let's look at the types of boilers, their features and connection rules.

Flow type

Connection diagram for instantaneous water heater to the electrical network

Installation of a flow-through heater can be divided into several stages:

Choosing a location. Flowers should not be installed far from water collection points to prevent heat loss when water flows through pipelines. At the same time, it should not be placed too close to taps or shower heads; splashes of water should not fall on the device. You need to choose the installation location so that it is convenient to use both the water heater and the tap (shower).
Connection to the water supply system. Two options can be used here - a quick connection of the device to a shower hose or a more complex one - through a tee for a washing machine, which opens up great possibilities. In the first case, only a shower can be provided with hot water, in the second - several water points. It is also possible to make a branch from the cold water pipeline to supply water to the inlet pipe of the device, but this option is quite labor-intensive, and it is advisable to use it only for high-power devices.
Power connection. This moment is the most crucial. Flowers are powerful devices; ordinary lines cannot be used to operate them. It is necessary to draw a separate circuit with a thick copper wire with a cross-section of about 4 mm 2 (for powerful devices from 9 kW - 6 mm 2). You will also need a separate circuit breaker (RCD - residual current device).

For any type of heater, grounding is required. The use of conventional sockets is prohibited when the device power is higher than 3 kW.

Installation of the device on the wall is carried out according to the user manual.

Usually you need to remove the cover, mark the centers of the holes, drill them and insert dowels. You cannot install the heater on drywall or thin wooden partitions; you need a strong support - a concrete or brick wall.
After installation, it is necessary to connect the cold water supply pipes (to the heater inlet) and to the outlet - a shower hose or a hot water pipeline going to the taps.
To adjust the heating mode, it is recommended to install a tap at the inlet (cold water supply). A tap must not be installed at the outlet unless the instructions indicate otherwise.

Place of instantaneous water heater in the water supply system

How to connect a storage water heater

The boiler is connected from the mains using an RCD

Storage devices have undeniable advantages over flow devices:

The ability to provide several water collection points, to create a full-fledged hot water system in a house or apartment.
The thermally insulated housing allows you to maintain hot water for a long time even during power outages.

There are also disadvantages:

The water heating time increases, especially when using large containers.
The size and weight of heaters place increased demands on supporting structures or surfaces.

Installation of storage electric heaters:

Installation of the device. It should be done in a convenient place where there is access to the device for replacing burnt-out heating elements or other repairs and maintenance of the device. There are no fundamental requirements for the proximity of water points, so you can install a storage heater in such a way that it does not violate the aesthetics of the interior design, if the area of your home allows it. Devices with a small tank volume can be installed under the sink in the bathroom or kitchen. The only limiting factor is the location of water pipes and electrical wiring, but these issues can be resolved quite easily.
Connection of inlet and outlet pipelines.
Power connection. To do this, it is necessary to provide a separate line with an RCD machine. Prolonged loads can damage worn wiring. The line cross-section should be calculated based on the power consumption of the heater.

The distance from the outlet to the sink or bathtub must be at least 1 m.

Connecting to the water supply can be done in two ways:

Connecting the cold water pipeline to the inlet through a splitter. The output is connected to the internal domestic hot water system of the house. This option is good for a private house where there is no centralized hot water supply.
Insertion of the outlet pipe into the DHW system. Cold water from the riser is supplied to the inlet of the heater, and hot water from the outlet goes into the domestic hot water pipe. The connection to the hot water riser is closed with a tap during this time. The method is good for houses or apartments with an existing centralized water supply of both hot water supply and hot water supply. It becomes possible to provide yourself with hot water during outages or interruptions, but, if necessary, use centralized resources.

From the riser with cold water, the pipe is led to the boiler, and from it to the water collection points

Video: installation of a storage boiler

Connecting the combined unit

Combined water heaters are a system of several units

Since the coolant is produced on the principle of a flow-through heater, electricity consumption will be high, which will require electrical wiring of sufficient cross-section in good condition.

Installation of devices is carried out in accordance with the design features