Floor insulation in a wooden house: types of heaters and work order. Features of warming the floors of wooden houses Make the right floor in a wooden house

home distinguishing feature the floor structure of the 1st floor, located above the unheated underground, is that there is a heater in the structure. And where there is a heater, the question of its protection from adverse factors automatically arises in order to preserve its heat-shielding qualities. And one of the most important issues of protecting the insulation is the issue of protecting it from moisture, that is, a vapor barrier device. This article will focus on the insulation of the wooden floor of the first floor above the basement, and with your own hands.

Creation of a temperature and humidity regime

The main task of all structures using insulation is to create correct mode its operation, i.e. make sure that moisture does not penetrate into the insulation, and that which can form in it, has the opportunity to freely evaporate to the outside. The first means of protection is a vapor barrier. The second means is ventilation, as sufficient ventilation promotes the evaporation of moisture. These principles should be used when constructing the floor of the 1st floor.

The first is ensured by the correct use of vapor barriers. Ventilation is provided by air gaps and space under the floor (underground). The underground (technical underground, basement) must be dry and well ventilated. Incorrect temperature and humidity conditions of the underground can lead to the formation of condensate inside the insulation. To prevent this from happening, the underground must have air ducts for its ventilation. At very low air temperatures in winter, they can even be closed so that the temperature in the underground is not very low and this does not lead to a large temperature difference, which contributes to the formation of condensate in the insulation or on its surface.

insulation

Types of heaters

As a heater, both bulk and rolled or board materials. Bulk heaters are expanded clay, vermiculite, slag, mineral fibers, shavings.

Expanded clay backfill

Board materials are prefabricated boards or blocks of materials with low thermal conductivity. IN Lately foam polyurethane heaters, which are blown into the space of the insulated structure, have become very popular.

Mineral wool insulation

But the most popular, especially in private construction, are flexible, soft materials. Such heaters are good because they are easy to give the necessary shape, they are convenient when laying. The most common insulation is the so-called mineral wool in the form of mats or rolls.

Advantages of mineral wool insulation:

good thermal conductivity;
non-flammable and does not support combustion;
lightweight, savings on load-bearing structures;
convenience and speed of installation.

Flaws:

hygroscopicity;
you need a foundation for laying.

Vapor barrier - why is it needed

The insulation must be protected from moisture. Any insulation, if it gets wet, loses its heat-shielding properties very much. And since mineral wool is a hygroscopic material, care must be taken that moisture does not get on it.

But protection is required not only from water. Protection is required against the ingress of steam. Vapor barrier plays an important role in creating optimal conditions heater operation.

Without delving into the concepts of partial pressure, we note the importance of understanding two points:

It is the vapor barrier that is the barrier that prevents moisture (in the form of steam) from penetrating into the insulation;

It is important to correctly determine in which place of the “pie” the vapor barrier should be placed.

The principle of placement of vapor barrier

In order to briefly, but at the same time clearly understand where the vapor barrier should be placed, you need to remember: steam always spreads from a place with more high pressure to an area of lower pressure. It can be put simply this way: warm steam always (practically) spreads from the room to the outside. This must be remembered and then it is easier not to get confused with where it should be placed.

It follows from the foregoing that the vapor barrier is not placed "above" or "under" the insulation. It is located "between" a warm room-source of steam (usually indoor heated rooms) and a cold room (outdoor space) where this steam moves. Therefore, in case of insulation attic floor, the vapor barrier will be under the insulation, and in the case of insulation of the wooden floor above the basement - above the insulation.

The concepts of vapor barrier, waterproofing, membrane

In order for the vapor barrier to be effective, i.e. worked correctly and did not harm, the film needs to be laid right side. To do this, you need to study the manufacturer's instructions and consult with the seller. A large number of various materials for protection against steam and water are now being produced. But there is a difference between them. The scope of their application depends on the type of premises, their humidity and temperature conditions, air temperature environment for which construction they are used - roofs, ceilings or walls. Often confusion comes from the concepts themselves: vapor barrier and membrane, vapor barrier is used instead of waterproofing.

Designed to protect against water vapor, which are in the air of the room. In fact, steam is a water-saturated gas, or we can say the gaseous state of water. The vapor barrier must have a low vapor permeability, i.e. she must not skip steam. It is approximately equal to 10 g \ m2 \ day.

Basically, the vapor barrier is a film. They can be conditionally divided into:

Vapor-permeable or "breathable" (membranes);

Vapor-tight, practically impervious to steam, water or air.

Waterproofing designed to protect structures from water. Water molecules are larger than gas molecules.

Membrane. Now the word membrane has become very popular. Membranes are already more high-tech films. With regard to the topic of vapor barrier, we can say that this is a material capable of leaking or vice versa trapping certain substances. The most commonly used expression is a vapor-permeable moisture-proof membrane. This means that this material does not pass water, but at the same time passes steam and allows moisture to evaporate. It is these properties that are required during construction to protect thermal insulation.

The direction from where the membrane passes steam and from where it does not let water through can be different for different membranes, depending on the place of its destination. Therefore, you need to be very careful when choosing and ask the seller all the necessary characteristics.

The main structural schemes of the floor of the 1st floor

Consider the construction of the floor of the 1st floor above the underground or unheated basement.

Scheme of the wooden floor of the first floor without waterproofing

The basic layout of the floor of the first floor is as follows. By load-bearing beams, which are based on the foundation, a subfloor is laid. The draft floor is necessary in order to lay out insulation on it. The insulation is placed in the space between the bars. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation. Between the vapor barrier and the boardwalk, it is imperative to organize air gap to evaporate condensate that may form on the vapor barrier from the room side. It can be organized by nailing bars 2-3 cm high. A boardwalk is arranged on top of which the finishing floor is laid.

The load-bearing structure of the floor is beams. The step of the bars is usually 60-80 cm. You can choose a step so that it would be convenient to lay out insulation between the bars. Then the step will be equal to the width of the insulation plus the thickness of the timber.

In places where the beams are attached to stone structures, between them there should be a waterproofing gasket made of, for example, roofing felt or bituminous mastic. Between the bar and foundation wall it is necessary to make a gap for ventilation, the timber should not adjoin the wall closely.

Draft floor. To attach the subfloor to the bars, smaller bars, “cranial bars”, are attached. Subfloor boards are laid on them. Here you can use a board with a thickness of 15-50 mm of low grade.

Wooden floor of the 1st floor with waterproofing

Sometimes waterproofing is provided in the floor construction. It is appropriate if the basement is very damp, there is a high level of groundwater. Then there is a need to protect the insulation from below. For this, waterproofing is arranged under the insulation. This waterproofing should be made of a water-repellent but vapor-permeable membrane. In order to avoid annoying mistakes, it is better to call the top film simply a vapor barrier (even if the manufacturer calls the film itself a membrane), and the bottom one - waterproofing. And here, ideally, a membrane should really be used - a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane.

An example of the use of improper waterproofing

This video is very good example that water can form in the insulation. This video is very common on YouTube under various names. Very often it is called "wrong vapor barrier". The vapor barrier itself is not visible in the video. Perhaps the authors of this design used the bottom film as some kind of vapor barrier.

But the point is that the bottom film was supposed to be waterproofing, waterproof on one side, but vapor permeable on the other.

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Comments:

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Regular (17)

Natalia
Good afternoon. Completely confused in steam and waterproofing. Tell me if we are doing the floor of the first floor. We have a wooden house made of timber 150 by 150 on screw piles. we make a rough floor, then we have to put waterproofing. We bought hydro and steam insulation D in the store. It’s like a sugar bag. Then we want to lay insulation and vapor barrier material, then the floor. I’ve seen a lot on the Internet and I think what if this film accumulates water inside? And at the same time, get the insulation wet? what kind of insulation to lay on the subfloor.?
And another question. We have taken out part of the second floor, that is, below outdoor terrace, and on top it turns out a room. Yesterday we put the same waterproofing on the logs of the second floor and then a 25mm board. It seems like they wanted to save the room from the cold, but now I think that water will also accumulate. Then they wanted to put a heater from below and again we don’t know what’s next, probably waterproofing is more correct. In stores, sellers only advise her everywhere, but according to experiments on the Internet, they write differently. please give advice.
Natalia
I live in an apartment on the 1st floor, a basement under the floor. winter time icy. Is it possible to insulate the floor with OSB, and what kind of substrate to use between the floor (wooden) and OSB, or do I need something else for insulation.
Maksim

Thank you. I would still like to get a competent answer.
- Alexander (Foreman)
  Good afternoon. Each material has its purpose. That is why it was invented. On the manufacturer's websites there is a specific description of the use of each membrane. Therefore, we need to specifically talk about the floor cake and specific membranes.
  If you close the tree from below with a film, then it will quickly rot, because. will have the same effect as with the ventilation pipe. Moisture will condense on inside films from the room, thereby the logs will be constantly wet. To do it right, we look at the instructions for the membranes that are used to insulate the floor.
  - Maksim
    Good afternoon. I live in a small town and do not trust the competence of sellers, tk. 99% of them, as Zadornov says - KOEKAKERS - do not know anything and do not want to know. practice shows that manufacturers do not know what they produce. I will give an example: I purchased isospan D vapor waterproofing. On the official website in the description of this product it is written: it is used for insulated and non-insulated roofs, it can be used as a temporary roof. having unpacked three rolls, I finally found instructions (out of 3 rolls there was only one) for use: it is used only for non-insulated roofs. I had to return everything to the store. instead of this steam-waterproofing, PGI was purchased by another manufacturer. on their official website there was the same description as that of isospan. after unpacking the roll, an instruction was found: not to be used as a temporary roof.
    Returning to my question, I want to clarify: a vapor-waterproofing film, if I understand correctly, allows moisture vapor to pass through in one direction, and on the other hand, it prevents moisture from penetrating into the insulation. if you stretch the film from below along the lags, then the vapors from the wood and the insulation will go into the underground, and moisture from the underground will not get into the logs and the insulation. or is it not?
    - Alexander (Foreman)
      Question accepted.
      
      Still an opinion: As a vapor barrier is supposed to protect from steam from inside the whole house!! construction cake, and wind-waterproofing is obliged to protect the whole cake of any structures from wind and water.
      Back to the pie above the underground. No membrane protects against steam, plus with permanent residence there is no driving force for that. so that steam from the underground climbs into the pie above the underground (if the house is not permanent and there is no ventilation of the underground, it’s another matter!). I also do not consider it necessary to protect myself from water - except for the case of gushing water from the underground up to the ceiling. Therefore, in this case, we should talk about vapor-permeable wind protection (wind protection must release steam from the cake outside). Wind protection is required to protect the cake from being blown by wind / draft / pressure difference and protect the insulation from being blown away by the wind ... Therefore correct solution IMHO - the most vapor-permeable membrane with overlaps and pads and with the obligatory protection of the entire pie. Ventilation of the underground is mandatory in any scenario. as well as the vapor barrier of the entire cake immediately below interior decoration floors when overlapping on walls and gluing mandatory overlaps.
      - Maksim
        Good afternoon. actually the question is not whether to lay the film or not. I have a question: why do they lay the film TOP ON THE LAGS, AND NOT UNDER THEM?
      - Alexander (Foreman)
        And this is not right for logs without an air gap and immediately boards! This was done in the old days so that dust from glass wool does not get in and so that it does not blow into the micro-slit.
        The film also protects against possible dampness when the temperature of the floor cake changes. (condensation)
      - Maksim
        WHY IS THE FILM LAYED FROM THE TOP ON THE LOGS AND THE SUB-FLOOR, AND NOT FROM THE BELOW UNDER THE LOGS?
        
        I AM NOT ABOUT THE TOP LAYER OF VAPOR HYDRO-INSULATION, BUT ABOUT THE LOWER.
      - Maksim
        Let's start from the beginning. something we seem to misunderstand each other.
        
        I have a house made of logs on screw piles. plinth height 60 cm.
        the plinth has not yet been insulated with anything, but half a brick, purely decorative, to close the plinth. in the future I plan to insulate it with polystyrene foam from the inside 50-100 mm. air ducts were made in the basement for ventilation of the underground.
        house for permanent residence
        
        so: now I have 50x200 logs installed with a step of 60 cm. where to start warming the floors? from bottom to top: subfloor, vapor barrier, insulation 200mm (min wool), vapor barrier, ventilation gap (which one is needed by the way?), finishing floor (board 40)
        
        the whole question I have is why it is impossible to make insulation like this: from the bottom up: vapor barrier, subfloor, insulation 200mm (min wool), vapor barrier, ventilation gap (which, by the way, is necessary?), finishing floor (board 40)
      - sergey pavlovich
        Good afternoon. did not find the answer to Maxim's question.
        "Good afternoon. please tell me why the bottom layer of vapor-permeable waterproofing is placed on top of the logs and on the flooring. I want to stretch the film from below along the lags onto the stapler, thereby protecting the tree from the moisture of the underground. Or, on the contrary, will I leave it (wood (logs and flooring)) without ventilation and it will be even worse? tell me how to?"
        
        I'm very interested in the answer
      - Alexander (Foreman)
        Good afternoon. Apparently they completely forgot about the question of maxim. You need to understand the difference between a vapor barrier and a hydro barrier! It is important. The vapor barrier is laid down from the bottom of the structure to prevent the ingress of moisture during evaporation from the bottom. And the hydro-barrier, passing the moisture released by the structure (for example, the drying of wood) to the top, does not allow moisture to get from the top. Using the film itself, you thereby retain moisture ... which will lead to decay.
Maksim
Good afternoon. please tell me why the bottom layer of vapor-permeable waterproofing is placed on top of the logs and on the flooring. I want to stretch the film from below along the lags onto the stapler, thereby protecting the tree from the moisture of the underground. Or, on the contrary, will I leave it (wood (logs and flooring)) without ventilation and it will be even worse? tell me how to?

Wooden log, lumber, frame houses are becoming more and more in demand. Many construction firms and brigades have appeared that have accumulated extensive experience in building such houses using new materials, tools, accessories and measuring instruments. New wooden houses meet all modern requirements for the quality of housing.

Peculiarities

Our ideas about home warmth, comfort, natural cleanliness and safety are connected with a wooden house. It is clear that in terms of strength and durability, a wooden house and some of its details cannot compete with concrete, composite and other modern objects and structures.

Comfort in the house is largely determined by the features of the wooden floor:

strength, at which the elements do not bend or creak;
long-term preservation of the shape and original appearance;
warm to the touch;
has beauty and charm.

The beauty of a wooden floor, not covered with carpet or linoleum, has its own unique feature.

The device of the floor is not a novelty for people of any generation, its technology has been developed for centuries and anyone can master the preparation of materials and perform all the work. It is important to familiarize yourself with the order of work, master one of the many technologies, get acquainted with the tool and fixtures and start work, observing safety measures.

What to cover?

Several types of wood-based panels and plastic material are suitable for covering the rough and finishing floor. Tiled and plywood material can be used in lathing, surface cladding and in the formation of subfloors.

Plywood is one of the best finishing and construction products. These are glued sheets of veneer, located in the direction of the fibers mutually perpendicular. Due to its high strength, diverse colorful texture, and ease of use, plywood can be used both for the subfloor and for the finishing of the fine coating. Available in sizes 1.5x1.5 meters, 1.5x3.0 meters. The thickness of the material can be from 8 to 30 mm. The cost of plywood depends on the original wood from which the veneer is obtained.

OSB - particle board. It is obtained by pressing flat chips impregnated with a moisture-resistant resin. These boards are used for various partitions, bases for blocks with shingles, to create a large package and in other similar cases. For floors wooden house used as intermediate layers. Thickness - from 9 to 20 mm, dimensions - 1.22x2.44 meters.

Chipboard Quick Deck Moisture resistant in the composition has wood shavings, moisture resistant resin. The surface is hardened, smooth, facing without chips and scratches. It can be used in laying finishing floors, partitions, ceilings. Thickness and dimensions correspond to GOST of Russia.

DSP (Cement particle board) includes wood chips, cement, binders and other substances. Moisture-resistant, fungus-resistant, fire-resistant, tough, durable, environmentally friendly. Suitable for use in subfloors. Thickness - from 8 to 24 mm, dimensions - 1.2x3.2 meters.

Constructions

According to the type of supports used, the floor can be load-bearing or floating. When relying on load-bearing or supporting beams, the floor will be connected to the walls of the house and there will be mutual influence during deformations of the walls or floor covering. For a monolithic bond with the walls, beams or metal channels are used. If the support is on poles, then this option is called floating. Most often it is used when laying a house on the ground with a close location of soil water.

Support pillars can be made of red baked bricks or monolithic concrete pillars can be used, made with formwork or using asbestos-cement pipes and placed inside them with a steel reinforcement frame. IN modern construction use supports on screw piles, which are fixed in nests in the ground.

Floor structures are placed on a bearing base and on ceilings. The role of such a basis is performed by the soil, interfloor, basement or basement floor.

"Pie", or flooring, is divided into two types:

Single flooring from prepared wooden boards. This type of floor is easy to build, use and possible repair in future. Often used in summer cottages for seasonal use;
Double type of coverage for houses with permanent residence. The technology for this type provides for the construction of two decks - finishing with finishing and draft, or black floor. The gap between them is a space for insulation and protection from moisture.

When interfloor bases (floors) are being equipped, there is no need for steam and thermal insulation, it is enough just to isolate them from noise. If it is planned to install bathrooms on the upper floors, then there should be protection against leaks.

Thermal protection, insulation and heating are given special attention if a warm second floor is separated by a floor from a cold basement or basement.

Heating

We lay a vapor barrier on the laid black floor, the gaps between the lags are filled with insulation ( mineral wool). Foam plastic or foil polyethylene foam is placed on top. At the joints of walls and floors, we use mounting foam. Before laying the final floor, lay a layer of vapor barrier material on top. The laid clean layer can be additionally covered with thickened linoleum or carpet.

For many residents, such a scheme is enough to save heat, but some also need heated underfloor heating. The installation of underfloor heating is becoming more and more attractive in the improvement of housing and increasing its comfort.

Floor heating is carried out by thermal devices of various types, but with the obligatory presence of instruments and sensors to maintain a certain temperature regime.

Heating options:

Innings hot water in heating pipes;
Heating by electric heating cable;
Heating by infrared radiation.

With the water method of floor heating in concrete screed heating pipes are placed. It can be polyethylene, metal-plastic and copper pipes, through which hot water transfers thermal energy.

A simple solution to supply hot water to these pipes would be to connect to common system heating in an apartment building, but this is administratively difficult. Obtaining such permission from public utilities, ordering a project and agreeing with the house management is far from an easy task.

In a private house, by solving the issue of installing a warm water floor, you can get a safe, durable and cost-effective scheme for maintaining a comfortable thermal regime.

IN electrical systems heating systems use a shielded heating cable in combination with temperature sensors as the main source of heat.

Infrared floors are a thin film with carbon strips between its layers. These strips, receiving power from the mains, emit infrared thermal radiation, which heats the space around them.

It is better to entrust the installation of the floor heating system to specialists who will perform all the work in accordance with the agreed project.

How to choose?

IN log house the correct choice of the type of floor is determined by the number of storeys, the climatic features of the area of \u200b\u200bresidence, the purpose of the rooms. The first floor needs special attention for all types of insulation, primarily moisture and thermal. If possible, equip them with heating.

The second floor of a wooden house is protected from moisture and cold and will require less expense for flooring. There may be more choices here. floor coverings- from linoleum to parquet from expensive breeds.

For a cottage on the first floor better fit finishing floor, made of boards of the same breeds from which the walls are composed. Boards should be lined so that from the entrance to the opposite window they lie parallel. It is better to put a bathroom or shower cabin on the first floor, and if there is a need to use the second floor, then it is best to use ceramic plates for the bathroom, preventing water from leaking.

How to lay?

IN wooden house floor boards can be laid on logs, which are best laid with a grid. The step of their laying depends on the thickness of the floorboard. The thicker the veneer board, the less often the lag mesh. As they can be used timber, half-bar, massive boards placed on edge. They can be laid on the ground, brick supports, beams, concrete base. Before making the logs floor supports, they are kept indoors for several days for acclimatization. Then you need to treat them with an antiseptic and water-repellent composition.

Colors

The color range for doors and floors is more limited than for walls, but the choice expands due to shades.

Laminate, parquet, linoleum, carpet, skirting boards and other design elements diversify our selection:

A light shade reflects light and enlarges the space, adding a new feeling of freshness and transparency. For living room and bedroom good decision, but it is necessary that the colors of the walls enliven the situation;
dark shade gives a sense of stability. It is suitable for rooms where there is a lot of sun. If you choose accessories that contrast with the tone of the floor, you can get a rather harmonious look.

Painting

Sometimes designers recommend painting the finished floor in accordance with the overall color scheme of the house. Such work will require initial surface preparation. We check the entire floor area to be painted. The floorboards should not creak, they need to be adjusted or restored. It is necessary to remove all irregularities, drive protruding heads of nails and screws into the wood. Repair and putty any part of the surface with a defect.

You can make your own putty. It is necessary to mix sawdust, drying oil and oil paint. You can mix sawdust with PVA glue. After such preparation, the floor should be washed with soapy water and allowed to dry for 2-3 days.

The paint mixture should be oil based, but you can use any other prepared as a floor paint. You need to paint at least two layers. After the first layer, it is necessary to allow 2-3 days for drying, after applying the second layer, the drying time is up to 5 days.

When applying the final coat, the movement of the brush should be parallel to the fibers of the floorboards. Otherwise general form coating will look like defective. There can be several technologies for applying floor paint.

A wooden house requires especially careful thermal protection, because if the temperature and humidity conditions are violated, the wood begins to rot and lose its strength characteristics. Help prevent this effective insulation. Before starting work on protection from the cold, it is necessary to figure out how to competently insulate the floor in an individual wooden house.

Why insulate a wooden floor

Wood versus concrete is enough warm material, but when building a frame private house or a house from a bar with your own hands, it is not always possible to achieve a rational balance of the thickness of the structure in terms of strength and thermal conductivity. To reduce the consumption of materials for walls and foundations, thermal insulation is necessary. It is possible to carry out work on insulation both in an old building put into operation long ago and in new construction.

Floor insulation in a wooden house can prevent the following problems:

the appearance of excessive dampness in the room;
decrease in temperature in the task;
condensation, which results in mold;
the appearance of fungus and other microorganisms dangerous to humans;
increase in heating costs;
destruction of wooden structures from the inside.

By doing the work yourself, you can significantly reduce costs. Now there are many materials, the use of which does not require special skills and high qualifications.

Scheme of all heat losses of a wooden house.

Which floors require insulation

The following structures need protection:

cold cellar floor cake;
attic floor;
interfloor construction.

In the case of an interfloor option, the material is used as sound insulation. In this case, it is necessary to provide a layer 3-5 cm thick.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor in a wooden house allows you to provide comfortable conditions residence. Most heat loss occurs through the ceiling of the upper floor, so it is necessary that the thermal insulation is selected and laid correctly.

Materials for work

To competently insulate the floor in a wooden house, you need to choose a high-quality insulation that has all the necessary properties. Warming can be carried out both from the inside of the room and from the side of cold air.

For do-it-yourself insulation of the attic floor from the inside or the basement from the bottom, it is better to use lightweight materials that can easily be fixed from below to the ceiling pie. In this case, it would be correct to apply:

mineral wool in rolls;

These materials will provide maximum convenience do-it-yourself ceiling insulation work.

When insulating a frame house, a house made of timber or logs, work can be carried out from the inside of the room for the floor of the first floor and from the outside for the last one. In this case, it is better to carry out floor insulation along logs or beams, since this will prevent the transfer of load to fragile material. For this type of work, you can use the following materials:

More information about insulation with sawdust and expanded clay can be found in the articles and. These materials have such advantages as natural origin and low cost, so if you need to reduce construction costs or insulation in an old building and ensure complete environmental friendliness, it is better to use them. However, they are less technologically advanced than other materials.

Recently, the method is also gaining popularity. This method is good for its low labor intensity and high efficiency.

floor insulation technology

It is important to properly lay the insulation in compliance with the competent order of all layers. The floor pie when insulating the attic floor, the floor of the second floor or the first floor has not always noticeable, but significant differences.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor from below

In this case, when doing do-it-yourself work, the materials should be correctly laid in the following order:

waterproofing;
insulation;
vapor barrier;
cover structure.

When building a house from a bar or frame, the material is fixed along the beams. Then the stitching is done. As a protection against moisture and steam, you can use a regular plastic film. As a second option for waterproofing, moisture-proof membranes are used. If all the layers are laid correctly, the structure will be reliably and competently protected from the cold from the point of view of heat engineering.

This method is very laborious and is used only if there is no possibility of warming from the inside.

Also, the method is perfect for warming from below.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor from the inside

It is quite inconvenient to carry out work under the ceiling, therefore, when erecting a frame house or a building from a bar, they often perform insulation of the floor of the first floor along the beams from above. In this case, in addition to the previously given materials, loose materials such as sawdust and expanded clay can be used. When carrying out insulation with your own hands, it is correct to lay all layers in the following sequence:

floor structure;
waterproofing;
insulation;
vapor barrier;
clean floor.

The vapor barrier must be placed from the inside of the room, so it will work correctly, preventing damage to the ceiling along the beams from the timber.

Interfloor insulation

In the first case, the insulation dampens airborne noise: human speech, music, etc. In the second case, the structure is also perfectly isolated from impact noise - steps, jumps, etc.

Proper sound insulation of interfloor ceilings is the key to a comfortable stay for all family members.

Insulation of the ceiling of the upper floor from the inside

Installation of insulation from the inside does not provide maximum protection for structures, but it can be used as a second option for laying insulation. In this case, the insulation is mounted along the beams from the bottom of the ceiling. It will be correct to arrange the layers in this order:

vapor barrier;
insulation;
waterproofing;
beam roof construction.

Attic floor insulation

When building and repairing a frame house, a house made of timber or logs, it is better to insulate the attic from above. This method has the following advantages:

ease of installation;
the possibility of using inexpensive bulk materials;
competent thermal protection;
warming not only the premises, but also the ceilings along the beams of a house made of timber or frame;
prevention of condensation in the thickness of the ceiling.

To ensure proper protection, the layers are stacked in the following order from bottom to top:

floor structure;
vapor barrier;
thermal insulation material;
waterproofing.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

To perform a full-fledged thermotechnical calculation of the structures of a frame house or a building made of timber, it is not necessary to have a construction education. When performing the calculation, it is important to know the thicknesses of all layers of the cake and their thermal conductivity. It's easy enough to find out.

The calculation will allow you to perform competent insulation of the house from a bar and prevent overspending of materials. All calculations, taking into account the search for initial data, are unlikely to take more than half an hour. Usually such layers as waterproofing, vapor barrier are not taken into account.

A competent choice of the method of insulation, the type of material and its thickness can save you from many problems during operation. When building multi-storey residential buildings, the question of insulation does not arise: it is required. The correctness of the choice of thickness and the availability of measures for thermal protection of the floor, attic floor and walls are checked by an examination, which considers these calculations on an equal basis with strength calculations.

In private housing construction, no one checks the presence of competent insulation, but this does not make it less important.

It's obvious that flooring process- one of the most serious and key stages of repair work, which requires maximum concentration and effort. Regardless of the choice of material, the floor will serve for a long time and effectively only if it is strictly observed. construction technologies, rules and regulations.

Today we will talk about the construction of wooden floor structures in the premises of the first floor of a private house, using the standard method.

The construction of the structure will take place in five main stages

installation of beams and log;
arrangement of a waterproofing system;
implementation of a draft version of the floor;
implementation of the final version of the floor;
flooring device.

Most often, the entire structure is installed on a number of prepared support posts or beams (concrete or brick). The empty space that remains between the ground and the floor plane is called the underground. This space should be ideally ventilated, only in this case the wood will remain in its optimal form for the maximum possible amount of time.

Important nuance. Before we start installation of wooden floor structures on the ground, you should find out - how close to the surface of the earth are ground water. If they flow high enough, seriously moistening the soil, serious waterproofing of the entire system will be required. You will also have to arrange high-quality ventilation underground.

It should be remembered that the floors are subject to constant mechanical stress, in this regard, the wooden flooring should be chosen with great care.

In this case, the following points must be taken into account

wood moisture content should be 12 percent. The durability of the material largely depends on this indicator;
material with cracks or chips is a bad option. In this case, the likelihood of repair work in the near future is very high;
wood flooring floors should be treated with one of the types of reliable antiseptic, to increase the level of fire resistance and prevent pathogenic phenomena (fungus, etc.);
optimal solution there will be a choice in favor of coniferous types of wood: fir, larch, pine, cedar. Among hardwoods, preference should be given to ash or oak.

The durability of wooden floors and the peculiarities of the microclimate in the premises of the house not least depend on the condition of the underground - ideally it should be dry and well ventilated. In order to arrange effective system underground ventilation will need to be done required amount holes around the perimeter of the plinths. It is worth foreseeing the likelihood of a snowy winter and removing several ventilation pipes with visors. You can increase the level of air circulation with the help of a window fan (or several). Do not forget about the possibility of penetration into the underground of small rodents - it will not be superfluous to install cellular gratings (cell up to 8 millimeters).

Most varieties of wooden floors in private houses are laid on a prepared system of support beams laid in the base of the foundation. It happens that the building construction project did not provide for the presence of support beams - in this case, support columns (concrete or brick) will be required.

If the laying of the beams took place together with the foundation, the required number of support posts will have to be made in a separate order.

It is important to correctly select the points for installing supports. For this purpose, a mark must be made on each of the embedded beams, and then the ropes must be pulled along the entire subfloor. Then we repeat the same procedure along the width. At the points where the ropes (cords) will intersect, the corners of the support posts should be located.

It is important to correctly determine the number of supports so that the interval between them is in the range from 70 centimeters to one meter.

Remember, the greater the thickness of the log or beams, the smaller the interval when installing supports. The size of each recess for the support post must be corresponding to the sides of the support. During the installation of supports, do not forget - the correct choice of its section will depend on the height of the column. The higher the support from ground level, the more difficult it is to ensure its stability.

So, at the designated points, we dig holes with a depth of 40 to 60 centimeters and lay the supports. In the variant with brick columns of small height (up to 25 centimeters), laying can be done in “one and a half” bricks, in the case of high supports, we work in 2 bricks. In order to increase the reliability of the support system, it is possible to fill the foundation under their foundations. Bricks are fixed with cement mortar and waterproofing.

The option with concrete columns is considered more reliable due to the use of reinforcement. The parameters of each side of the concrete column can vary from 40 to 50 centimeters, depending on the height of the support itself.

In order for the floor surface to be perfectly flat, it is important to monitor the observance of the horizon even at the stage of installing the supports. Therefore, we recommend that you regularly check their plane using the building level.

The next step is to remove upper layer earth around the entire perimeter of the subfloor, level the surface, then alternately backfill the gravel and sand layers. Each of them must be watered and gently tamped. Ramming can be done using a vibrating plate or a homemade improvised tool.

So, three or four layers should be laid on top of the supports. waterproofing material. Next, we begin the installation of beams or logs, securely fixing them in their places. In principle, the logs can be laid directly on the supports, but if we want the floor to be really strong, we first need to lay the required number of beams. In the case when the log or beam is shorter than necessary, the place of their junction should be laid on the support, connected to each other by the “lock” method and secured using self-tapping screws.

In order to securely fix the logs and beams on the tops of the support pillars, we need an appropriate amount of metal corners. Fastening of the corners to the supports is carried out using dowels, and for fastening to wooden surfaces it is better to use self-tapping screws.

Each beam and log should be carefully treated with an antiseptic composition.

If you suddenly find that the horizon for the supporting pillars is imperfectly maintained, it's not scary. If necessary, a special gasket or wedge can be placed under any of the sagging beams.

About single layer wooden field

Among the main methods of arranging a wooden floor in country cottage, first of all, we will single out the single-layer and two-layer options. Varieties of single-layer floors, as a rule, are performed during the construction and repair of country houses. Year-round use of such structures is possible only in conditions of sufficiently warm regions. If you need floors that are warm all year round, it is better to choose the "double insulated" option.

So, to equip a single-layer wooden floor, we need to lay the log on the support pillars and fasten them. In order to make logs, we apply the required number of wooden bars measuring fifty by fifty millimeters. The next step is laying tongue-and-groove boards (thickness from 40 to 50 millimeters) and fastening them to the logs - for this we will use self-tapping screws or nails.

Speaking of flooring for a single wooden floor, we advise you to opt for linoleum or simple staining.

In some cases, in order to make the entire structure more durable, the beams are first laid on the supports, and only then comes the turn of the lag. A few more words about the support beams. Ideal material for manufacturing, perhaps, can be considered wooden bars, the thickness of which is 10 by 10 or 12 by 12 centimeters.

About the draft version of the two-layer floor

So, as mentioned above, if you plan to operate the cottage all year round, you will have to deal with the installation of a two-layer and insulated floor structure. Of course, in doing so, you will spend much more effort, time and money, but the level of return from such work will be completely different.

In this case, the sequence of our actions will be as follows

we install the log on the system of support pillars, we carry out the fastening using self-tapping screws and metal corners;
in each of the gaps, from the log to the log, a moisture-resistant plywood panel must be laid, so that each of its edges lies on the protruding area support post;
all remaining free space must be filled with thermal insulation (clay with sawdust, glass wool, foam plastic, mineral wool);
it's time to lay the subfloor. As a material, it is best to take the required number of boards, the thickness of which can be 15-50 millimeters. It is very important to carry out the correct processing of the boards in order to ensure that they fit as closely as possible to each other. Fixing the lag and boards is made using self-tapping screws.

An important nuance: the edges of the plank floor should be at least 15 millimeters from each of the walls. This is necessary to ensure ventilation and prevent possible swelling of the floor due to seasonal swelling of the wood.

Next, we proceed to laying layers of heat and waterproofing. We close the draft floors with polyethylene membranes (thickness - two hundred microns) and an additional layer of insulation (for example, foamed polyethylene). Each membrane (film) must be overlapped, its edges are glued with tape.

About laying a finishing floor

For the installation of finishing floor options, grooved or parquet boards, as well as plywood panels, are best suited. The latter, as a rule, are laid on top of the insulation and fastened with self-tapping screws diagonally and along the entire perimeter. Then the actual installation of the flooring begins.

About the grooved board option

The undoubted advantage of this material is that the grooved board floors look aesthetically pleasing even without additional floor coverings - you just need to carefully apply right amount layers of varnish or paint.

We will lay the tongue and groove board in the following sequence

before the material goes into work, it must “lie down” in the room for 2-3 days, thus “getting used” to the microclimate of a particular room;
it is necessary to indent from each wall at a distance of 15 millimeters in order to create a gap for ventilation and prevent floor blisters;
the laying of the boards of the finishing floors occurs perpendicular to the boards of the rough floors. We start by laying the first row, clearly keeping the line - with spikes towards the wall. We fix each board using self-tapping screws, which must be screwed in such a way that the plinth closes them close to the wall. From opposite sides, screwing the screws into the grooves should occur at an angle of 45 degrees. The gaps between the edge boards and the walls are closed with special wooden spacers.

In cases where the floorboards are shorter than the length of the room, they are usually laid "in a row". Thus, an increase in the level of floor strength is ensured. The length of each screw should be several times the thickness of the boards. Holes for the entry of self-tapping screws should be prepared in advance, otherwise the board may be damaged (chip, crack, etc.).

Laying the next row of material (and each subsequent one) is carried out according to the principle "thorns - in the grooves of the boards of the previous row". We seal the boards with a special rubber hammer, then fasten them with self-tapping screws from the reverse sides into the grooves.

About the option with parquet board

The arrangement of finishing floors from massive parquet boards remains one of the most popular and sought-after options in private homes.

Several features of the optimal implementation of this process of laying parquet boards

fastening of massive parquet boards by means of self-tapping screws can be done only from those sides where the spikes are located;
the parquet board is laid out exclusively "in a row";
in the version using a plywood base, it is recommended to first fix the boards “on glue”, and only then fasten them with self-tapping screws;
diagonal laying method parquet board makes it possible to visually enlarge the room.

Finally

Each of wooden elements, included in the floor structure, must be treated with antiseptic and flame retardant compounds. Such processing will help to increase the period of trouble-free use of the structure. The work on laying wooden floors in the house can be considered finally completed after the application of the final floor coverings.

Video: Laying a wooden floor

Additional floor insulation in a wooden house will reduce heat loss and thereby reduce heating costs. Despite the fact that wooden floors have low thermal conductivity, heat leakage can occur due to the high temperature difference in the basement and on the first floor. In this article we will tell you what material is better to use for thermal insulation of the first and second floors in a private house with a wooden base.

Features of thermal insulation

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house? The process of installing thermal insulation is relatively simple. However, the quality of work is largely determined by technical features coatings used for insulation. Before purchasing material for sheathing a rough base, you need to consider several important nuances:

the expected load on the coating;
humidity level;
temperature loads;
height of thermal insulation.

The base insulation technology itself is simple and consists of several stages:

lag installation;
fixing from below on the logs of wooden sheets;
installation of insulation on the logs;
covering the base with vapor barrier material;
finishing of the rough base.

When planning work, it is very important to take into account the microclimate in the room. For insulation of the first and second floors, various heat insulators are used, as it should be. Moreover, the technological process of insulation also has some differences, which we will talk about a little later.

Optimum heat insulators

What material is best to use for decoration rough coating with your own hands? For insulation of wooden floors, both natural and synthetic thermal insulators are used. The most requested of them include:

sawdust;
Expanded clay;
mineral wool;
Izolon;
Styrofoam;
Penofol.

Each material has its own technological features and thermal insulation parameters. To understand their disadvantages and advantages, consider all of the above heat insulators in more detail.

Thermal insulation with sawdust

Sawdust insulation is one of the most budget options thermal insulation of wooden floors. The environmentally friendly material is quite light, so it can be used to isolate interfloor floors. The thickness of the heat insulator layer can be easily varied due to its flowability. Thus, it is possible to regulate the level of heat loss in the room.

When finishing the base with sawdust, the following types of chipboard coatings can be used:

Blocks of pressed sawdust. The material is made from copper sulphate, sawdust and dry cement. As a rule, it is laid between the lags when insulating the first floor. Lightweight blocks of small thickness - up to 15 mm, can be used for wall cladding;
Pellets with sawdust. Granular bulk material is made from sawdust treated with an antiseptic and glue. Difficult-to-combustible sawdust can be insulated interfloor ceilings, since they do not create a large static load due to their low weight;
Arbolit. In this case, the base material is mixed with synthetic and organic additives, after which it is molded into blocks. The non-combustible thermal insulator has high bending strength, while it is hygroscopic. Therefore, in the process of laying it is necessary to use waterproofing layers;
sawdust concrete. Outwardly, blocks with sawdust resemble cinder blocks. They are made from a mixture of wood chip granules, cement and sand. Suitable only for thermal insulation of the first floor of the house.

Insulation of the floor along the logs with sawdust in any case involves the use of a waterproofing layer. Hygroscopic material is a good environment for the development of mold and pathogenic flora, therefore, during the operation of the coating, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of moisture ingress.

Thermal insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay - granular insulation With good performance sound and heat insulation. Why is it worth insulating the bases with expanded clay? The heat insulator has considerable advantages, which include:

environmental friendliness;
frost resistance;
strength;
low thermal conductivity;
incombustibility.

When finishing the coating with expanded clay with your own hands, you need to consider low level hydrophobicity. The material quickly absorbs moisture, although it does not deform at the same time. However, expanded clay insulation is fraught with the formation of mold under the floor. Therefore, in the process of laying it, it is necessary to think about additional waterproofing.

How to make thermal insulation with expanded clay?

Before expanded clay, lay a layer of waterproofing on the base. It can be a plastic film or roofing material;
The layer thickness should vary from 10 to 50 mm, no more;
As can be seen in the photo, a vapor barrier is placed on top of the insulation;
As a vapor barrier, coatings with a foil layer can be used. The best option will become Penofol.

If you want to insulate the plank floor with expanded clay with your own hands, under which the basement is located, it is advisable to pour a layer of sand from below. Thanks to him, condensate will not collect under the floor, which will significantly reduce the risk of mold or fungus.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

Is it possible to insulate wooden base along the lags with mineral wool? An environmentally friendly thermal insulator is made from fibers obtained from glass containers and slags. The advantages of finishing the rough base with mineral wool include:

ease of installation;
low cost;
light weight;
environmental friendliness;
mold resistance;
good thermal insulation.

However, in the case of processing the floor along the lags with mineral wool, several negative points must be taken into account, namely:

Upon contact with water, the coating, insulated with mineral wool, loses its thermal insulation qualities;
It is not recommended to use material for sheathing the second floor due to low vapor permeability;
It is not advisable to insulate rooms with a high static load with mineral wool due to their low strength.

What is the work plan?

Foundation preparation. From below, you need to mount a plank floor treated with an antiseptic;
Waterproofing. It is necessary to make additional waterproofing using polyethylene film, pre-clean up the house;
Lining with mineral wool. In the process of laying, it is necessary to ensure that the layers of material are laid along the logs very tightly to each other;
Installation of vapor barrier. It is better to make high-quality vapor barrier with Penofol;
The final stage. At this stage, the installation of the finish coating is carried out.

The thickness of the mineral wool is determined by the microclimate in the room. If there is a basement below the room, the material can be laid in two layers.

Thermal insulation with ecowool

Why is it better to make thermal insulation with ecowool? 100% natural coating has good technical parameters and relatively low cost. It is made from cellulose and mineral additives, so even when heated, the ecowool coating does not emit caustic chemicals. impregnated boric acid the product is practically invulnerable to fungus and mold.

What are the advantages of this type of insulation?

Good heat and sound insulation;
fire safety;
environmental friendliness;
Low thermal conductivity.

As you can see in the photo, finishing the rough base along the logs with ecowool can be done in two ways:

Manual. In this case, finishing with ecowool involves the installation of insulation along the logs on the shields attached from below. To prevent heat loss, the joints are treated with mounting foam;
Mechanical. To finish the base with ecowool, blowing machines are used: through a special hose, loose insulation is evenly distributed over the coating. In this case, the layer thickness should be at least 3-4 mm.

The process of thermal insulation of floors with ecowool is shown in more detail in the video clip.

Thanks to the glue that is part of the thermal insulator, it can be used to insulate not only the floor base, but also the walls. It is also worth noting that it is convenient to insulate with ecowool not only the first floor of the house, but also the interfloor floors. The vapor-permeable coating does not contribute to the accumulation of condensate and the development of mold.

Isolon insulation

How to correctly carry out thermal insulation along the lags with isolon? The heat insulator made of foamed polyethylene has low thermal conductivity. Due to this quality, it has recently been used to insulate floor coverings. What are the benefits of Isolon?

Small thickness (2-10 mm);
Low thermal conductivity;
High hydrophobicity;
Environmental Safety.

As can be seen from the photo, the material is produced in rolls, which greatly facilitates the process of installation by one's own hands. When insulating a wooden floor with Izolon, you need to take into account the following points:

The coating has good sound insulation, therefore, when laying it, it is not necessary to use additional soundproofing layers;
To reduce heat loss in the room, when laying Izolon with your own hands, the material is not joined, but overlapped;
The seams between adjacent sheets are treated with polymer glue or bituminous mastic.

Thermal insulation work can be seen in the photo below.

Insulation with Penofol

Is it possible to insulate wooden floors with penofol? Penofol is a new generation insulating coating, produced in the form of a roll. To be more precise, Penofol makes shielding that prevents the dispersion of radiant energy. Lightweight and easy to use, the insulation has a reflective layer that prevents large heat loss. That is why it began to be used everywhere for finishing interfloor ceilings.

What are the benefits of Penofol?

withstands heavy loads;
non-hygroscopic;
has low thermal conductivity;
easy to fit;
does not require the use of vapor barrier.

For your information. The technology of warming bases with Penofol is not much different from isolation with Izolon. As in previous version, the sheets are overlapped to prevent heat loss.

Features of isolation by lags

How to properly insulate the draft base along the lags? In the process of laying the thermal insulator, the following scheme must be observed:

The draft base is lined with boards, which must be attached to the logs;
To prevent moisture from entering under the coating, a layer of vapor barrier is laid;
Then the base is insulated with expanded polystyrene, mineral wool or other materials.

If it is necessary to make high-quality thermal insulation of a room above a non-residential and unheated room, then it is better to use mineral wool with a thickness of more than 40 mm as a heater. In this case, the "pie" obtained from the vapor barrier and mineral wool will allow you to keep the heat in the room, preventing heat exchange between the cold basement and first floor.

Features of thermal insulation of the first floor

Since wood tends to deform, cracks can form in the floor over time, through which heat gradually begins to escape from the room. How to make high-quality insulation of the first floor in an old house?

The first step is to remove the old flooring;
Then they make a revision of the lag for deformation or decay;
If necessary, rotten bars are replaced;
Then they treat the tree with an antiseptic with their own hands;
From below, bars are nailed to the lags for laying wooden boards;
Insulation is poured onto the boards;
Next, a layer of vapor barrier is laid;
Complete the work with the installation of the finish coating.

The insulation technology is shown in detail in the video.