Treatment of the greenhouse after harvesting: soil disinfection and other measures. How to treat tomatoes against late blight in a greenhouse Soil treatment in a greenhouse in the spring of late blight

If crops on your site or in a greenhouse have already suffered from late blight, treatment in the fall in buildings with closed ground is mandatory. Measures can also be taken to prevent the development of this fungal disease.

Processing methods

Disinfection of a polycarbonate greenhouse, which helps to get rid of late blight and, in the future, protect the crop, can be done using different techniques. Experienced summer residents who have already encountered this disease believe that autumn treatment is the most effective. All that remains is to choose the means and method of disinfection.

Using chemicals;
Biological drugs;
Temperature method;

It is good to treat the frame and other elements of the greenhouse using chemical components. It is better to expose the soil in a greenhouse to high temperatures, biological products or use chemical elements.

Treatment of a greenhouse against late blight in the fall begins with the structures. To do this, you can use a sprayer or brushes with long bristles. Since late blight microspores are found almost everywhere, corners, joints of parts and crevices should be treated with special attention. In the autumn, aggressive preparations for treating the greenhouse are permissible, because before planting tomatoes or other crops they will evaporate.

Laundry soap solution

Using this method is simple and safe. Of course, it is impossible to 100% defeat late blight with a soap solution, but some of the microbes will die, and the structures will be dust-free and ready for further action. To obtain a soap solution, you need to put a piece of laundry soap in a bucket of water and wait until it becomes limp, then mix everything thoroughly and begin processing. If you don’t have time to wait, you can grate the soap. When treating a greenhouse with this product, transparency is maintained.

Sulfur checkers

Before fumigating greenhouses with sulfur, it is necessary to treat all metal elements with grease, since sulfur vapors cause severe corrosion. Autumn treatment of greenhouses against late blight with sulfur is one of the most effective. The sulfur is placed on metal sheets and installed in different parts of the greenhouse away from wooden objects and structures. To make the substance ignite quickly, a little kerosene is dripped onto it. But the most convenient are sulfur bombs. When sulfur ignites, a gas is formed that can penetrate into the narrowest and most hidden places. As soon as the checker starts to burn, you must immediately leave the greenhouse, since the fumes released are dangerous to humans. Close the door and all existing openings tightly. The building can be opened in 3-4 days.

Copper sulfate

Copper sulfate can destroy any microorganisms. To obtain a working solution, use the following proportions: 100 g per 10 liters of water.

Bleaching powder

Treatment of a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall against late blight is carried out using bleach. The solution is prepared from 400 grams of lime and 10 liters of water, all components are mixed and allowed to brew for four hours. Before treating a greenhouse with bleach, you must wear a mask and gloves. The remaining sediment can be used on wooden surfaces, including seedling boxes. After disinfection, you should not enter the greenhouse for two days.

Fungicidal agents

Summer residents often ask how to treat a greenhouse after late blight in the fall, to which experts respond with various fungicide preparations. These include “Acrobat-MC”, “Profit”, “Fitosparin”, “Kartotsid” and others. It should be noted that these drugs are used to protect plants, and in the case of disinfection of a greenhouse, their concentration should be much higher.

The best option is to replace the soil layer. It is removed by about 10-15 cm. The removed soil is not used for three years. The removed layer is replaced with humus or peat. Next, the beds are dug up. The downside of this time is the waste of a lot of time and effort.

Biological method

Beneficial bacteria will help defeat late blight microbes. A large amount of them in the soil contributes to its health. The most common products are “Baikal EM” and “Shine”. You can also use compost, nettle infusion, and manure. Planting oilseed radish or mustard as green manure also helps. All these means, with the help of beneficial microorganisms, make the soil alive and healthy.

Watering the soil with preparations

One of the widely used elements for soil disinfection is potassium permanganate. Before watering, the remains of vegetable crops and weeds are removed. To water the soil, prepare a solution of rich pink color. Treatment with potassium permanganate is recommended to be repeated after 10 days. Work equipment can also be placed in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes. If the soil is sufficiently moistened, then Fitosporin can be used as an option.

Thermal treatment

Phytophthora spores do not tolerate severe frosts and bright sun, so if possible, it is better to leave the greenhouse open for better freezing of the soil. Moreover, there is no need to remove polycarbonate sheets; open windows and doors will be enough.

Spilling boiling water on the soil also occurs; after this procedure, to enhance the effect, the soil is covered with cellophane film. The procedure is repeated after 7-10 days.

When choosing a method of combating late blight, it is better not to rely on one thing, but to fight this disease comprehensively. Also, when processing, do not forget about racks, shelves, and garden tools. Today you learned how to treat a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall against late blight. Surely our recommendations will help you get good harvests next year.

One of the most dangerous diseases of tomatoes is late blight, and even their cultivation in a greenhouse does not relieve this vegetable from the threat of disease. What are the reasons for the development of late blight in polycarbonate greenhouses and how to deal with it, advice from specialists and experienced gardeners presented in the photo and video will tell you.

Late blight in the greenhouse: causes of the disease

Late blight infection is indicated by the appearance of dark spots on their leaves, which then spread to the stems, flowers and fruits, causing them to rot and fall off. The disease can develop so quickly that in just a week it can lead to the death of the entire tomato crop. The following conditions contribute to the development of the disease:

temperature changes in the greenhouse due to severe overheating during the day and its significant decrease at night, especially if the windows and doors of the greenhouse were left open at night;
increased humidity in the greenhouse caused by frequent watering or the use of sprinkling;
increased alkali content in the soil caused by non-compliance with proportions when liming acidic soils;
thickening caused by failure to maintain the distance between plantings, failure to plant and thin the crown;
excess nitrogen and lack of other minerals: phosphorus, copper, potassium and others in the soil, which leads to weakening of plants and slower development;
joint cultivation of several types of nightshade crops in one greenhouse; the proximity of tomatoes and potatoes is especially dangerous.

Attention! Phytophthora spores spread easily by air and die quickly – within a few hours, when a hot, dry microclimate is created in a polycarbonate greenhouse.

Late blight is the most dangerous disease for tomatoes

Preventive actions

Prevention of late blight is the best way to spread the disease in a confined greenhouse space. A set of actions aimed at preventing the development of late blight includes:

1. Autumn treatment of the greenhouse, consisting of cleaning and destroying the remains of plants and auxiliary elements - pegs, supports, trellises, treating the room with disinfectants, sulfur bombs.

2. Disinfecting the soil by steaming it with boiling water or treating it with chemicals.

Attention! An effective method of protection against late blight is to annually update the soil layer to a depth of 5 cm with a new one.

3. Selection of disease-tolerant hybrid forms and varieties, as well as pre-sowing half-hour disinfection treatment of tomato seeds. Growing ultra-early varieties of tomatoes and cherry tomatoes will also help avoid the spread of late blight.

4. Additional spring pre-sowing soil treatment with tobacco or garlic infusion.

Attention! If disinfectant cleaning of the soil was not carried out in the fall, then in the spring before planting, you should definitely treat the soil with a solution of bleach or copper sulfate.

To prevent late blight, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures

5. Compliance with the conditions of agricultural technology - crop rotation, selection of plants for partner and neighbor plantings, planting density, pinching, tying, thinning the crown, removing fallen plants.

6. Maintaining a stable temperature in the greenhouse, without sudden changes, watering in the morning, avoiding waterlogging, organizing ventilation.

7. Two to four single treatment with fungicidal preparations - “Acrobat”, “Zaslon”, “Bio-fungicide” “Barrier”, “Pennkozeb” and others. It is recommended to carry out the first spraying after the transplanted seedlings have taken root in the new location, and repeat spraying after 2-3 weeks.

Attention! Treatment against late blight with industrial preparations is possible no less than 3 weeks before harvest. To avoid adaptation of pathogens to the drug used, it is recommended to change it annually to another one.

Late blight can be combated using medications. as well as folk remedies

Traditional methods

The use of home remedies to control and prevent late blight in the greenhouse allows you to avoid the accumulation of dangerous substances in the fruits and at the same time cope with the disease.

The most effective, according to vegetable growers, are:

Carrying out preventive measures is the most important condition for obtaining good tomato yields when growing them in a polycarbonate greenhouse. If the disease appears when the tomatoes have almost reached ripeness, the best solution would be to harvest the unripe crop.

Treatment of a greenhouse against late blight - video

How to treat a greenhouse against late blight

If vegetables affected by a fungal disease grew in the greenhouse, be sure to treat the soil and the structure itself in the fall. You need to know how to treat a greenhouse against late blight and how to do it correctly so that next season the vegetables are not “attacked” by the insidious fungus.

Preparation and treatment of the greenhouse against late blight

Late blight can survive for a long time on greenhouse structures, in torn grass, tools, and soil. Before processing the greenhouse, preparatory work must be carried out.

Source: Depositphotos

After a late blight attack, the greenhouse must be treated

To do this you need:

Remove all tools and auxiliary materials from the greenhouse.
Treat equipment with copper sulfate.
Uproot vegetables and burn them.
Remove all weeds and burn.

Then you can begin processing the greenhouse. If you need to treat a film greenhouse, the film should be removed and washed thoroughly in a soapy solution. Then dry, fold and store until next season. If this is a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate, its walls and components can also be washed with soapy water, infusion of ash or garlic.

But if the vegetables have been severely affected by the fungus, then the greenhouse after late blight needs to be treated with more radical means:

phytosporin - can only be processed at a temperature of +10 °C;
Bordeaux mixture - prepare the solution according to the instructions and spray the structural parts; instead of this substance, copper sulfate or potassium permanganate is also used;
lime - coat the greenhouse parts with slaked substance;
sulfur - grind cuttings of sulfur, mix with ash and place in metal containers, place them in a greenhouse with closed doors and windows, set fire to the mixture;
You can use a sulfur bomb - it needs to be set on fire with the windows and doors of the greenhouse closed, and the structure must be ventilated after 2 weeks.

When using chemicals, it is important to take safety precautions and wear gloves. During sulfur fumigation, toxic gas is released; such treatment should be carried out only if the greenhouse is removed from residential premises.

Soil treatment in a greenhouse against late blight

It is necessary to treat not only the greenhouse, but also the soil in it for fungus. For this use:

boiling water - pour water over the soil and cover with film;
copper sulfate - dilute 1 tbsp in a bucket of water. l. substances and water the soil;
lime - sprinkle the soil with dry powder;
formalin - dig grooves, pour the substance into them, leave for 2 weeks, then ventilate the greenhouse well.

Before cultivating the soil, it is better to dig it up so that pests and fungi are at the top. In winter, you can open all the windows and doors of the greenhouse so that harmful microorganisms die.

In the spring, you can plant vegetables in a greenhouse without fear if the entire structure and soil have been treated from late blight in the fall.

The dangerous late blight fungus, having settled in a greenhouse, negatively affects the quality of the future harvest. Infection of plants is indicated by black spots on the fruits, which gradually increase in size, affecting the vegetable completely, and then spreading to healthy plants. It is possible to get rid of late blight in a greenhouse (including polycarbonate), but it is important to begin this immediately after discovering the “enemy”. It is also necessary to adhere to certain rules that will help not only win this unequal battle, but also prevent the disease.

Danger of disease

Even greenhouse plants can become infected with late blight. Externally, the fungus is a white cobweb that entangles the inside of the plant. There it grows and develops, taking away the vitality of the plant. Ripe spores are released outside, where they are transported with the help of water to neighboring plants. After this, a new cycle of fungal development begins.

Even severe frosts are not afraid of spores: they wait out the winter, and when the air temperature rises to 10°C they begin to actively develop.

Symptoms of the lesion

Before you throw all your energy into fighting the fungus, you need to make sure that it has actually settled in the room. At first, late blight does not appear outwardly in the greenhouse. But gradually, as the disease develops, external changes appear. The first alarming symptom is yellowing of the foliage. Then:

the appearance of brown spots on the green mass of the plant;
the formation of a white fluffy coating on the inside of the leaves;
the appearance of black spots, as if slightly pressed into the fruit;
formation of fruits of irregular shape, long ripening of the crop;
rotting and softening of fruits, the appearance of an unpleasant odor.

The main causes of late blight are lack of fresh air (poor ventilation), waterlogging and non-compliance with temperature conditions (most often low temperatures).

Unfortunately, it will not be possible to save the affected plant. But it is not only possible, but even necessary to expel micropests from the environment. Its spores in the soil survive even at subzero temperatures. Therefore, you should not hope for them to freeze in an unheated room. To avoid crop loss from late blight next year, it is necessary to treat the greenhouse immediately after harvesting the fruits.

If you find late blight in a greenhouse or greenhouse, what to do depends on what stage of development the crops are at. The ripe crop is harvested and the room is disinfected. In the case when the fruits are not yet ripe, their development is supported by folk remedies, and in the autumn the entire greenhouse space is disinfected.

Folk remedies

It is often not recommended to use chemicals and preparations with copper. After all, remaining in the soil, they enter the fruits, and then into the human body, negatively affecting its health. Effectively combat late blight in a greenhouse with folk remedies:

Garlic. To prepare the infusion, you need to add 0.5 tsp to 1.5 cups of peeled garlic cloves. potassium permanganate and pour in 2 liters of water. Then the container is closed and left for half an hour. After this, the infusion is diluted with a bucket of water and used for watering in an amount of 0.5 liters for each bush.
Dairy products. Milk is mixed with water in proportions of 1:10, and then used to spray the bushes. Lactic acid bacteria stop the development of the fungus, which allows the bush to continue development and fruiting. For the same purpose, it is good to use whey (mixed with water in a 1:1 ratio). The spraying procedure is carried out twice a month all summer.

Salt. Dissolve a glass of the substance in a bucket of water and spray the plants. After drying, a protective film forms on the bushes, which prevents the penetration of pathogenic organisms.
Yeast. Mix with water in a ratio of 1:10 and use for irrigation.
Ash. Sprinkle the soil before watering or spray the bushes with a solution.
Copper. Copper wire can be hung along the bushes or wrapped around them, threaded through the stem.

Iodine in a greenhouse against late blight

Antiseptics are used not only to disinfect wounds. You can use iodine in a greenhouse against late blight by spraying the solution on plants. Its use in conjunction with dairy products will be effective:

With whey: add a drop of iodine for each liter of product. The resulting solution is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 in the case of watering at the roots or 1:3 for spraying.
With milk: take 1 liter of low-fat product and 20 drops of iodine per bucket of water. Spray the solution twice a month.

Spraying in the greenhouse is carried out early in the morning or in the evening. It is important to spray with fine sprays so that the surface is treated better. In this case, too much hydration will not be very beneficial.
An interesting method of using iodine from late blight in a greenhouse in the video below.

Greenhouse treatment

There is a very high probability that fungal spores will overwinter in greenhouse soil, plant debris or structural elements. Therefore, all disinfection measures are aimed at treating the entire greenhouse space. Careful work in this direction will not only get rid of late blight, but also prevent its recurrence.

Conventionally, processing agents are divided into biological, chemical and temperature. The first ones are used as preventive protective measures, the second ones are used to treat the structure and soil, and the third ones disinfect the soil. Any means are used only after thoroughly cleaning the room.

At this stage, all instruments are removed and disinfected. Clear the greenhouse of all materials used in the growing process. Collect and burn all plant residues along with the roots to destroy the fungus remaining in them.

To get rid of fungal spores on a greenhouse structure, it is necessary to disinfect it. For greater efficiency, it is necessary to seal the structure and cover up all the cracks found. When carrying out disinfection, the following rules must be observed:

The air temperature must be at least 10°C, otherwise the greenhouse treatment will not be productive enough.
It is advisable to spray all surfaces with water to increase the toxic properties of the substance used.
It is necessary to use protective equipment: a gas mask or a respirator. This is due to the high toxicity of the drug.

The greenhouse against late blight is fumigated with sulfur bombs or lump sulfur. The drug is used at a rate of 50-80 g per 1 m³. If a spider mite is detected, the dosage is increased to 150 g for the same volume.

You can also use regular sulfur to combat late blight. Metal sheets with sulfur are placed inside along the perimeter of the greenhouse and set on fire. Then the room is closed for 3 days. After this, ventilate well.

You can carry out wet treatment of the greenhouse (it is especially good in metal structures, which sulfur quickly destroys). In this case, all surfaces are thoroughly sprayed with a solution of bleach (0.4 kg per 10 liters of water, infused for 4 hours) or a solution of copper sulfate (75 g for the same amount of water).

Greenhouse surfaces are treated against late blight and slaked lime solution. All parts of the structure are coated with it. Metal parts are additionally treated with boiling water, and wooden parts are cleaned with a brush. After whitewashing, the room is ventilated, and after half a month the procedure is repeated.

Soil disinfection

Before disinfection, the soil must be dug up.

The top layer is completely replaced, fertilized, and then disinfected in different ways:

First, they pour boiling water over it and then cover it with polyethylene to destroy all pathogens.
Treat with a solution of copper sulfate (a tablespoon per 10 liters of water). It is important to remember that frequent use of vitriol contributes to the accumulation of copper in the soil and plants. And this negatively affects human health.
Add dry lime. This cannot be done before planting bushes (quicklime powder will negatively affect the growth and development of the plant), so it is processed in this way only in the fall.
Disinfect with formaldehyde. For this purpose, they first dig ditches, pour the substance into them, and then cover them with earth and leave them for a couple of weeks. After this fortnight the room is ventilated.
Special solutions that are designed to disinfect soil in a greenhouse.

Winter care activities

Winter is a very harsh test for plants in heated greenhouses. By this time, the room is carefully sealed to prevent cold air from entering. The result is a lack of fresh air, high humidity and cool temperatures, which contribute to the development of late blight. The only option to prevent the disease is ventilation, which will increase the amount of oxygen supplied. It is important to ventilate at least a fifth of the room.

Spring disinfection of the greenhouse

In the spring, the inside of the room is first wiped with a solution of freshly slaked lime, to which vitriol is added. Together with this procedure, all mosses that appear on the frame are destroyed. After this, thoroughly wash all glass surfaces.

All surfaces are thoroughly washed with soapy water: both internal and external, without missing a single crack. To treat walls and shelves, you can also use solutions of garlic, mustard powder and tobacco ash.

Prevention of late blight

Growing plants in a polycarbonate greenhouse has several advantages. Among them is the ability to create certain conditions that will not allow harmful microorganisms to develop normally. In order not to be afraid of the appearance of late blight on tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you must adhere to the following rules:

mulch the soil;
avoid dense plantings;
tie up tall bushes so that the root part is constantly ventilated;
Remove all excess foliage and unnecessary shoots.

And in order to avoid late blight getting into the greenhouse from the outside, it will be necessary to plant the main carriers of the disease - tomatoes and potatoes - away from the room. And then you can sleep peacefully, without worrying about this insidious disease.