Instructions for the installation of plastic windows by hand. Installation of plastic windows yourself

Plastic windows are installed both in multi-storey buildings and in wooden houses. They are deservedly popular, as they have many advantages compared to wooden frames. They:

durable,
durable,
aesthetic,
eco-friendly,
functional,
are not blown
do not occupy large space v window opening, which allows you to increase the window sill.

However, some advantages, such as durability and tightness, are achieved only if windows are installed in accordance with GOST. Not all installers follow these rules. This does not mean that the window block will fall out of the window opening. However, after the change of seasons, gaps may appear that will become cold bridges. The window can skew in the opening, which will cause problems with closing and opening the sashes.

Installation seam requirements

Of great importance during installation is the quality of the installation seam. It is he who provides tightness and protection from moisture. Mounting seam according to current GOST 30971-2012 must:

consist of at least three layers;
be sealed;
be tighter on the inside than on the outside;
be made of those materials, the service life of which is comparable to the estimated life of the window - at least 20 years of conditional operation.

Insulation materials used in window installation

The functions of the layers of the assembly seam are different. They are designed to provide steam, sound and heat insulation:

The main one provides sound and heat insulation.
External - protects the seam from the penetration of atmospheric moisture.
Internal - protects against steam coming from the room.
Additional (arranged in concrete and brick buildings) - protects against absorption of moisture from the wall material by the seam material.

Therefore, in different areas apply different types vapor barrier tapes:

PSUL - installed to seal external joints. It has a self-expanding ability, and therefore hermetically adheres to surfaces.
VS (VS+) - used for vapor barrier of internal slopes installed in a dry way, meaning drywall or plastic.
VM (VM +) - used for finishing internal slopes, which will subsequently be covered with plaster.
GPL (GPL +) is a universal tape capable of performing the functions of steam, sound and noise insulation. It is made on the basis of foamed polyethylene, on the one hand it is laminated with a polyurethane film.

Outside, membrane-type waterproofing tapes are also used, which serve to divert atmospheric precipitation.

To improve performance, additional elements that protect against atmospheric phenomena can be used. For example, flashings and overlays, as well as an ebb installed from the bottom of the window.

From the inside, the seam is plastered or slopes and a window sill are installed.

How to take measurements correctly

The height, width and depth of the window opening are measured carefully. If a building level is used, then measurements are carried out at least three times, checking all indicators, because. the vertical and horizontal deviation should not be more than 4 mm per 1 m. In addition, a laser level can be used, an additional method is to measure the diagonals of the opening.

If the deviation is more than acceptable, the window block cannot be installed. First you need to correct the geometry of the window opening.

Window opening preparation

Prepared prior to work workplace. All furniture is removed from the window, curtains are removed. Using a perforator, saws, the old window block is removed.

During the dismantling of the old unit and the installation of a new one, fine dust is formed, which will settle on the floor next to the window and on the furniture standing in the room.

The plaster is removed from the window opening. If there are shells or build-ups larger than 10 mm, they must be repaired. Relatively small sinks are puttied with waterproof putty, larger voids are sealed with plaster, rigid insulating materials, or wood treated with antiseptics. When using mineral wool, provide its protection from moisture.

Only those surfaces that will directly affect the quality of window installation are treated with plaster: this is part of a quarter of the window opening with a width of about 25 mm, a section of the surface of the inner wall slope, i.e. directly those surfaces with which the vapor barrier tape will come into contact.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a window block in accordance with GOST with a photo

	The place is prepared for the installation of the box, now they begin pre-installation work regarding the window block. To fix the frame in the opening, it is technologically more correct to use special devices; they allow you to adjust the frame in height and width without losing the rigid fixation of the frame in the opening, unlike wooden mounting wedges. The frame is pre-installed, leveled with the help of adjusting bolts, the future location of the vapor barrier tape is marked with a pencil on the protective film.
	Then holes are prepared in the frame for fixing the anchor plates by drilling. The drill is inserted from the outer end of the profile. This method is optimal, because the hole in this case does not break. It is important to first use small diameter drills, and then the necessary, larger one.
	PSUL insulating tape must be fixed to the bottom of the box. This tape provides tightness after installation on the box of the stand profile - a technological element. The operation can be performed even in the workshop during the assembly of the structure, but it does not hurt to know about this need. Having sealed the joint with PSUL tape, the profile is installed in a regular place.
	The stand profile, in turn, is covered from above with a BC or VM tape, the difference between them in this case does not really matter.
	After the tape is glued, fasteners are attached to the box. Anchor plates are considered more optimal, since their installation does not violate the tightness. Distance Between Anchor Plates for PVC Window white color and with a box width of not more than 62 mm should not exceed 700 mm, if the width of the box is more than 62 mm, then the maximum allowable distance is reduced to 600 mm. For colored profile windows, under the same conditions, these figures are 600 and 500 mm, respectively. Fasteners are fixed with self-tapping screws of such length that they are fixed in the bottom bar of the box. Anchor plates may have latches, which can be misleading. In fact, you cannot rely on latches alone, you must firmly attach the anchor plates to the profile.
	All dust, shavings, and remaining plaster are swept from the opening. Now you need to create the first layer of the assembly seam around the entire perimeter. For this purpose with outside PSUL tape is glued. The master must be guided by the markup previously applied to the film. But at the moment of gluing the PSUL tape, the film is simultaneously removed from the window unit. If the length of the PSUL tape is not enough for the entire perimeter of the box, you can use another segment, but it cannot be glued overlapping, only end-to-end.
	Now the window block is installed in a permanent place and carefully aligned.
	Holes are drilled in the side and upper slopes for fixing the anchor plates. According to GOST, they must be fixed with two dowel screws.
	Support blocks should be located under the vertical elements of the window and in places with the greatest weight pressure. Pads can be wooden or polymer. Moreover, special requirements apply to their quality: hardness must be at least 80 units. Shore, with a length of 100-120 mm.
	Between the box and the wall, at a distance of about 200 mm from the corners, remote side blocks are installed. These are optimal indicators, taking into account the possibility of thermal expansion and contraction of the profile.
	Next, a waterproofing tape-membrane is installed, for example Robiband NL. On the one hand, it protects the mounting foam from moisture from the street, on the other hand, it removes moisture from the foam to the outside. It is necessary to calculate the length of the piece so that it is enough not only to glue along the entire length of the lower window profile, but also lead to the side slopes from the outside. It may happen that the tape is not wide enough and does not cover the assembly seam. Then another piece of tape of the same length is cut off and glued with an overlap of 2-3 cm in length to the first tape, and the lower section of the tape must go under the upper one to ensure the correct outflow of water.
	Further, the box is fastened to the bottom of the opening with the help of two dowel-screws for each plate.
	Then, vapor barrier tapes BC or VM are glued to the side vertical and upper horizontal profiles of the frame. Tape BC is intended for vapor barrier of dry-type slopes, VM - for plaster slopes, it is additionally duplicated nonwoven fabric, which ensures the adhesion of the tape and plaster. They have a self-adhesive layer. It is important to control the density of gluing tapes.
	The next stage - the slopes are primed, and only then the tape is glued to them. Primer treatment is especially recommended when surfaces are easily crumbled and crumbled. This applies to foam concrete and gas silicates. Primer GSR and its analogues are used.
	The ebb is tried on in place and cut to the desired size.
	Plugs are installed on the ends or they are bent.
	PSUL tape is glued along the lower plane. Here it is used as a soundproof gasket. Then holes for fasteners are drilled in the ebb. Fasteners must be located at a distance necessary for fixed fixation.
	The ebb is attached to the base profile. The angle of its inclination should not be less than 100 degrees in relation to the vertical plane.
	Next, the mounting gaps are foamed with polyurethane foam. It is important to moisten the surface with water before this. Under such conditions, the foam optimally expands, fills the space and hardens.
	Filling with foam insulation is recommended to be done in layers, with interruptions and moistening of the layers. It is applied over the support and spacer pads. After filling the seams, the surface of the foam is moistened again, but those areas where the tape will be glued are left dry. The tape without sagging is glued to the slopes. Pieces of tape that converge at the corners must ensure complete tightness. According to the technology, the overlap in these places is at least 100 mm.
	Then proceed to the installation of the window sill, the size of which is determined locally. Support pads are used to adjust the position of the window sill. They should be adjusted so that the window sill rests on them, but is in a horizontal position. Their number is selected taking into account the fact that the window sill must withstand a vertical load of at least 100 kg.
	Holes are drilled through the groove on the bottom profile of the box. They are needed to secure the window sill with self-tapping screws. First, countersinking is carried out with a drill of a larger diameter, then holes are made through with a drill of a smaller diameter. The shavings are swept away. From below, curved anchor plates or corners are fixed to the window sill. With their help, the window sill is attached to the wall. This operation is necessary if the window sill is wide enough and there is an overhang of more than 1/3 of the width.
	Before installing the window sill, it is necessary to prepare a foam insulation pillow. The surface is hydrated. The insulation is applied in separate sections, and not in a continuous sheet.
	After installing the window sill, the gap between it and the window block is filled with sealant. The width of the sealant layer should not be less than 3 mm. After that, the window sill is attracted by screws. Excess is removed with a soft spatula. While the foam insulation has not hardened, double-glazed windows are installed to provide additional structural rigidity.
	The side junctions of the ebb are sealed using mastic sealants. Excess is removed with a spatula.
	Then sashes and fittings are installed. In the final stages of window installation, it is recommended to periodically compress the vapor barrier tape with a rubber roller to control the expansion of the insulation.

Thus, windows are installed according to GOST. It takes 2-2.5 hours for a professional to install a standard double-leaf block. A non-professional will spend much more time on installation, and it is necessary to carefully follow the instructions at each stage, which is not always possible due to lack of skills.

With the advent of innovative technologies, ordinary residents got the opportunity to equip their homes with great comfort, coziness and warmth. Plastic windows play a significant role in this process. Finally, we can get rid of wooden windows that dry out in summer, dry up in winter, do not retain heat well and become sources of drafts.

A double-glazed window of a modern type has absolutely no listed disadvantages. It is durable, strong, safe for human body, has a beautiful and attractive appearance. PVC windows will delight you with their functionality for a long time, but with only one condition: the installation of double-glazed windows must take place in accordance with GOST and compliance with all the nuances and rules of installation technology. How to install plastic windows correctly if you have never done this before?

Trying to install double-glazed windows with your own hands is quite problematic, especially if you live in high-rise building. This will require the skill of a climber, which you will not have. Therefore, the easiest way out is to hire specialists. But even if workers who deserve numerous good reviews and have recommendations come to you, you should check whether they install your window correctly. And for this you need to know the main points of installing plastic windows, which, for your part, you must control.

Window installation

The technology for installing a plastic window according to GOST involves stepping a number of measures and activities according to specified criteria, and in strict order each stage.

Installation of a PVC window in accordance with GOST begins with dismantling the old window: workers must completely remove it, clean the opening to a brick or concrete base frames. Next, the workers must prime the surface of slopes into which the new frame will fit.

Please note that when working, installers use a primer, but not water. The primer will provide good adhesion materials that will be further used to isolate the voids that have arisen.

How is a special tape attached to pvc frame? The compacted compressed tape is attached around the perimeter frames from the outside. Its main purpose is to remove residual moisture that will remain in the window opening. Such a device inhibits the penetration of moisture in the opposite direction.

Then to the window frame attach diffusion tape. As a rule, it is white in color, with a dense fabric structure on a rubber basis. It adheres well to the openings in the wall, and also protects the seam from moisture.

After attaching all the tapes, the installers fix the anchor plates to the frame. They are placed around the entire perimeter with a distance of 70 cm from each other. After that, the window block can be installed in the window opening.

Now the installation of a plastic window in accordance with GOST is moving to another stage, including it fastening to a window.

Important! A double-glazed window should not be placed on concrete, but on wooden blocks that are treated with an antiseptic composition. These shoes help to adjust the gaps between the frame and the concrete slope. According to existing standards, the gap should not exceed 2 cm.

When the anchor plates are attached to the wall opening, the resulting gap must be fill mounting foam .

Foam is additional thermal insulation. It must fill all gaps and crevices to prevent excess moisture from entering. In addition, it is the mounting foam that helps reduce noise. After sealing the cracks with foam from the inside, the seams must cover with dense diffuse tape.

Before installing the window sill, workers should use metallic tape, which takes part in the thermal insulation of the lower seam.

Remember! Professional installers must lay the protective tape along the outer area of the window, that is, from the street. And the mounting foam from the side of the facade should not be visible at all.

window sill fixing

- it the final stage of installation of PVC windows.

Laid out on a concrete base cement screed, which will help ensure the stability of the window sill. Only on this solution it will not sag and even can support the weight of a person who wanted to sit on a comfortable base.

Internal slopes are applied to the initial profile, and each subsequent step is performed using building level measurements, which helps trace the level of the frame inclination. If it even slightly exceeds the norm, then the window will be bad both to open and close. Therefore, for construction team must be followed carefully.

Installation of plastic windows in accordance with GOST 30971-2002 should be carried out in this sequence. And finally, we note that before letting the workers go and signing the act of accepting work, control the window, open and close the sashes and check that correct work in all directions.

In conclusion, we suggest watching a video of how the installation of a plastic window according to GOST should look like:

If you have ever installed plastic windows, and the workers who served you performed the installation strictly according to the instructions and in accordance with GOST 30971-2002, leave your feedback in the comments.

PVC windows, which are often called double-glazed windows, are extremely popular today. Which is not surprising. Such designs have a lot of advantages over the old standard wooden windows, which today for the most part not only have a rather unsightly appearance, but are unable to perform the functions assigned to them. So the apartment owners are striving to replace outdated structures in order to make their house warm and quiet inside, and beautiful and modern outside.

To date, the cost of services of professionals in the field of construction and repair is extremely high. Perhaps this is precisely what explains the fact that today many are trying to carry out such work on their own, without seeking help from specialists. Of course, not everything can be done with your own hands, especially in the absence of the appropriate skills. However, there are works that are quite within the reach of a home master, despite their seeming complexity. Among those - and the installation of PVC windows. Almost every home-grown craftsman can independently carry out such a procedure. The main thing is to correctly follow the technology of the process, carefully observing all its requirements. What, in fact, is quite simple to do if there is an instruction for installing PVC windows before your eyes. Competent and detailed. And if there is none, we invite you to read our article, in which we want to talk in detail about what constitutes such a procedure as installing a PVC window with your own hands.

Stages

Installation of PVC windows is a job that many home craftsmen are afraid to do because of the seemingly extreme complexity of the process. It is worth noting, completely in vain. It is not as difficult as it seems to some from the outside. Moreover, when installing double-glazed windows, even no special tools are required. Yes, almost a normal set. home master, which is available in every home (we will dwell on it in more detail below). The procedure itself includes several stages, including preparatory. To summarize, it looks like this: first you need to correctly carry out all the measurements in order to acquire the “correct” double-glazed window; then you need to prepare an opening for installation, install the window and accessories attached to it; then refine the slopes. All these procedures (with the exception of the last one) take only two to three hours from professionals. The home master, of course, will have to work longer, but during the day he may well cope with the task. But since PVC is half the battle, because after installation you still have to fiddle with slopes, then it’s better to count on a few days. Let's say, dedicate the weekend to this case.

So let's start. From measurements.

Calculations

In order for the installation of a PVC window with your own hands to go smoothly, you need to correctly calculate the dimensions of the structure. The fact is that double-glazed windows will have to be ordered, since it is unlikely that you can just go to the store and buy them. You can, of course, call the specialists of the company that manufactures and installs windows, however, firstly, you will have to pay for it, and secondly, such companies, as a rule, provide comprehensive services - from measurement to production and installation of each PVC window ordered from them. Prices for almost everyone today, due to fierce competition, are the same, and usually they charge about 30% of the cost for installation. As a rule, the average is about 50 dollars. And if you decide to save money, you will have to do everything yourself. Including calculate the dimensions of the future double-glazed window. And in order to do it right, you must first study the old structure and the opening itself, because there are two types of it - with and without the so-called quarter. This is a special design that is present on the sides of the opening. To find out, you must first remove the cash from the old wooden window. And then measure the width old frame first from the side of the room, and then from the side of the street. If the result is the same, there is no quarter. If there is a difference, then there is a similar design. From here you dance.

If there is a quarter, the height of the future window will be the same as the opening itself. But three centimeters should be added to the existing width. In its absence, the double-glazed window should be shorter by five centimeters and already by three. This difference is the so-called gap. When installing PVC windows, it is necessary, since the installation of such structures is carried out using foam, and it requires space between the opening and the frame itself.

Well, if we are talking about the new building, then this moment house construction technologies do not provide for the presence of such a structure as a quarter. That is, you will have a clean window opening available. Feel free to measure its dimensions vertically and horizontally and go with them to a PVC window manufacturing company. There, the experts themselves will carry out all the necessary calculations.

Additional accessories

Because correct installation PVC windows is impossible without the presence additional elements, then when ordering a design, you should definitely pay attention to this. In addition to the double-glazed window itself, you should additionally be provided with fittings, a special sealant, an installation profile and a window sill with a tide. As for the last two additions, here you need to know some nuances.

These elements are available in several standard options (in width). Therefore, it is enough to measure the existing old structure, and then choose the one that suits you. As for the length, it is better to take elements with a margin of at least twenty centimeters. You can cut off everything superfluous when the installation of the PVC window sill itself is carried out directly. Well, the tide, respectively.

After the design is ordered and the terms are agreed, you can begin to prepare. Of course, you can release the window opening from the old frame only immediately before installing a new double-glazed window. There is no need to explain that it is impossible to sit in an apartment without windows for a week. The installation time for a PVC window, as we have already mentioned, is about three hours from specialists. Although you are transported, without experience, all day, but the old frame must be removed, of course, only before the installation of a new one begins. But to prepare everything necessary for the process should be in advance.

So what do you need?

Tools and materials

When installing a PVC window with your own hands, the master should have a certain and, most importantly, mandatory set of tools and materials, without which the installation process cannot be carried out. Therefore, you should take care of purchasing:

Drills.
Mounting gun, which will be needed during the procedure for foaming the seams.
Building level.
Chisels.
Rubber mallet.
stapler.
Hacksaws for metal.
Professional mounting foam.
Waterproof tape.
Construction screws, the length of which must be at least 12 mm.
Foil-laminated water vapor barrier tape.

This is the basic set that is required when a simple installation of PVC windows is carried out. If you plan to mount the structure using it, then, of course, you need to take care of purchasing them. In this case, it is worth paying attention to their strength. It is advisable to buy fasteners made of thick metal, since PVC windows will still be installed, which are quite heavy, and not some kind of light suspended structures.

Preparatory procedures

So, new double-glazed windows have been delivered to you, which means that you can start preparatory work. First of all, you need to free the room from furniture as much as possible. Installing a PVC window with your own hands is a procedure that requires a large amount of free space, so we remove everything that is possible from the room. Then you can start dismantling old design. Naturally, it is quite possible that PVC will be carried out in a newly built house with new window openings. In this case, this stage, of course, is omitted. However, most often home craftsmen are interested in exactly how to install a PVC window instead of a wooden frame that has served its time. And for them, the information below will be extremely valuable. Although there is an assertion that breaking is much easier than building, nevertheless, everything must be done wisely so as not to damage the window opening. By the way, even without this, it will suffer quite a lot, so try to carry out the dismantling procedure as sparingly as possible.

Removing the old window

If wooden structure so dilapidated that the glass literally almost falls out, then they must first be removed. To do this, it is enough to first remove the glazing beads holding the glass. If it is still quite strong, then you can try to remove the existing sashes from the hinges along with the glass. However, be more careful. It is better to get rid of the glass, so as not to accidentally damage your skillful hands. As a result, a frame without sashes and a window sill should remain in the window. Arm yourself with a hacksaw or, even better, a grinder equipped with a concrete wheel, and saw through the old frame in several places. Then use a pry bar to remove it piece by piece. As a result, there will be a window sill. Do the same with him. Cut first, then break. The problem can be delivered by a window sill made not of wood, but of concrete. In this case, you will, of course, have to tinker. And best of all, a jackhammer will help to cope with the problem. In the absence of the latter, use a grinder and a perforator.

After the old window is removed, carefully inspect the opening. Remove all protruding pieces of reinforcement, fragments of plaster from it. In general, make sure that, despite the somewhat unsightly appearance, it will be a reliable basis for the new design. And, of course, remove all dust and dirt.

Preparing a new window

Professionals install PVC windows almost always without disassembling them. Which is quite understandable, because they already have a lot of experience. It is better for the home master to play it safe and remove the opening doors from the hinges, and remove the double-glazed windows directly from the deaf ones. Many are afraid of this procedure, however, there is nothing complicated in it. To remove the sash, you just need to remove the pin, which is located in the upper hinge. To extract it, it is enough to have only pliers (picked up and pulled out). And then remove the sash from the bottom hinge. As for glass, there are no difficulties here either. It is only at first glance that a PVC window seems monolithic construction. In fact, it has exactly the same glazing beads as in wood. This is a plastic frame located on top of the glass. You just need to pick them up with a knife and push them out of the grooves. Then take out the glass.

Of course, the installation of large structures is far from always required. In private homes, sometimes a single-leaf small window is replaced. In this case, you can not be puzzled and proceed with the installation without disassembling it.

After the window is prepared, you need to remove the protective film from outer side. Everything. You can proceed directly to the installation.

Mounting types

There are two of them. The simplest is fastening the frame directly to the opening using dowels. The second is installation using anchor elements, which are first mounted to inside frames, and then attached to the opening. Professional masters in some cases combine both of the presented methods, which does not contradict the requirements of technology. We will try to tell in detail about both options.

Technology

First, on the lower surface of the opening, that is, in the place where the window sill will be located, construction wedges are laid out. The prepared frame is inserted into the opening, leveled with a building level and markup is carried out. That is, they mark on the wall itself the location of either holes for dowels or fixing anchors. The frame is then removed. Further, the algorithm of actions depends on the chosen installation method. If it is planned to fasten with dowels, then at the place of the marks, a hole of the corresponding diameter is drilled under them. In those cases where installation is provided using anchor plates, professionals recommend that you first gouge recesses under them, and only then drill holes for self-tapping screws. Why is this needed? Yes, so that these very plates do not protrude very much above the surface of the slopes. If this happens, it will significantly complicate the finishing process.

When everything is ready, re-insert the frame. Just before that, you need to glue it on the sides with a hydro-vapor-tight tape. Then the frame is fixed on the sides with construction wedges, carefully leveled. Then they are finally fixed (either with dowels directly, or with self-tapping screws anchor fasteners). Moreover, experts do not recommend strongly tightening these elements. It is even better if the head of the anchor or dowel protrudes a millimeter above the surface. As soon as it becomes clear that the structure is solid and set exactly to the level, the removed glass and sashes are returned to their place. After that, with the help of mounting foam, the gaps are filled on the sides and top, while not forgetting to remove the wedges.

As for the foam itself. Fill carefully so that there are no gaps. However, it is not recommended and do it in excess. Therefore, it is best, especially considering that this is the debut of a home master, to carry out this procedure with short breaks. They filled half a meter - they waited a little, at least twenty minutes. Foam tends to expand over time. And if you made a mistake the first time, then in the next it will be much easier to regulate its supply.

From the outside, after the installation of the window, a low tide is installed. For the same foam. And for greater confidence, they are also screwed with self-tapping screws to construction wedges, which, as you remember, remained with us at the bottom of the structure. As for the window sill, first it is measured in length, and the excess is cut off. Then they are inserted under the lower edge of the frame. It is enough to have a window sill under the window only two or three centimeters. From below, the window sill foams.

Important! If between the window sill and the lower edge of the window opening is very big gap, then it is not recommended to fill it all with foam. It is best to lay wooden blocks. Or even bricks. And after that, fix the structure with foam, while not forgetting, of course, to set it in level.

This completes the installation process. Now it is better to forget about the double-glazed window for a day and not touch it, so that, slamming the sashes of a new window for no reason, do not violate the integrity of the structure. After that, you can begin to remove excess foam and finish the slopes.

Installing a PVC window in a wooden house

There are some nuances here, which are due to the fact that wooden buildings, due to the characteristics of the material from which they were built, are capable of shrinking. Logs are able to practically move with temperature differences, contributing to the deformation of window and doorways, walls, etc. Which can cause all sorts of flaws in double-glazed windows. It is for this reason that in the first year after the completion of construction, they are not installed at all. PVC windows in wooden house, in addition, they are not mounted directly in the window opening itself, but in a special design. It's called a casing. Simply put: first, a special wooden frame from well-dried material. Then it is inserted into the window opening, aligned and fixed. After that, a PVC window is already mounted in it. This will reliably protect the double-glazed window from deformations and the appearance of flaws. Which, you see, is very important, especially considering the cost that PVC windows have. Prices even for the most simple designs, albeit not sky-high, but still impressive - on average small window costs about two hundred dollars. And under such protection, the window is not afraid of any shrinkage. The only thing to consider is that experts recommend leaving a larger gap between the window and the casing - at least 5 centimeters on each side. In all other respects, the process of installing a double-glazed window is the same as described above.

Installation of PVC windows on the balcony

Balcony glazing also has some specifics. If a complete structure is inserted into the window opening, then on the balcony the PVC frame consists of several parts that need to be fastened together. This is done with the help of anchor rails, and some experts additionally recommend smearing the joints with liquid nails. Because Bottom part windows are installed directly on the railing, then before installation it is necessary to carefully check their integrity and strength. And, if necessary, to carry out the necessary repair work. After that, a frame is built from wooden beam, firmly fixing it around the entire perimeter of the balcony. Then a visor is attached from above from the outside. Next, PVC windows are mounted, which are attached directly to the timber. First, the front group is installed, after which they proceed to the installation of the side ones. As for the method of attachment, use any of the two described above, at your own discretion. The only thing to consider is that it is better to make at least four attachment points on the sides, and at least three on top for one window. The gaps are also foamed, after which a low tide is installed on the outside, and a window sill is installed on the inside. As you can see, everything is quite simple.

Conclusion

We tried to tell as much as possible about how to install a PVC window in a concrete opening, in a wooden house and on a balcony. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the procedure. In the presence of skillful hands dealing with it is quite easy. We hope that now, after reading by you detailed instructions the installation process is quick and easy.

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to completely free the window opening and the space next to it:

remove everything from the windowsill,
take down the curtains
free the approach to the window by moving the furniture at least 1.5 meters from the window.

Protect the room from dust and dirt by covering the floor and furniture with cloth or thick oilcloth.

For ease of installation, connect the 220V power supply through an extension cord, prepare garbage bags.

Dismantling the old frame

After the room is ready for the appearance of dust and debris, they begin to dismantle the old window frame.

The shutters are removed from the window. dismantled window frames. If necessary, dismantle (knock down) slopes.

The old window frame is dismantled, and, as a rule, it is seriously damaged. If you wish to use old windows, for example in a country house, you should specify the option of keeping the old windows when ordering.

The old ebb, the old window sill is being dismantled.

PVC window installation

The sashes are removed from the plastic window, the double-glazed window is removed. A window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed to anchor bolts or mounting plates. At the same time, it should be strictly observed that the frame is level, and not along the opening (in houses there are often cases when the horizon line of the window opening is far from ideal, the frame should also be set vertically to the level). Otherwise, the window will not function properly.

The gaps between the wall and the frame are foamed with mounting foam. The foam performs both an insulating function and is a fastener. The overall result largely depends on the quality of this stage of installation. The foam must be applied evenly and fill all the recesses and cavities of the opening, and it is necessary to take into account the degree of expansion of the foam.

Installing a plastic window in most cases implies that a new window sill and a new ebb will be installed along with the new window. An exception is the case when repairs are being carried out in the apartment (house, room) and the window sill can be installed on its own.

If the mounted window opens onto a balcony (as in this case), then it is quite expedient and functional to install a window sill instead of a low tide (on the outside of the window).

If you have a good old tide, then you can save it for a new window, but in this case it will require restoration (restoration) - a paid service, the cost of which differs slightly from the cost of a new tide.

The window sill is cut out under the opening and attached to the window (to the stand profile). If the opening under the window sill is small, then it foams. Otherwise, laying or sealing the opening with mortar is necessary. When installing a window sill (window sill), it is controlled that it has a slope from the window within 5 degrees, and the overhang beyond the inner surface of the wall is not more than 60 mm.

When installing a window sill, it should be taken into account that its edges go beyond the finishing of the inner slope to a depth of at least 15-20 mm.

Advice: when choosing the width (depth) of the window sill, it should be borne in mind that the window sill is "recessed" by 2 cm under window frame, so the width installed window sill will be 2 cm less)

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam, and when it dries, they are isolated. The outer layer of insulation is designed to protect the insulation layer (which is the foam layer) from the penetration of moisture into it, as well as from the damaging effects of the sun.

So, the main part of the work is finished. However, for finishing the opening lacks slopes (which are both a decorative addition under which you can hide the mounting foam, and a functional element - increasing the thermal insulation and sound insulation of the window opening). Plastic slopes will give the window a finished look, besides, it the best combination with plastic windows.

Installation of plastic slopes

Plastic slopes are installed on the same day as the window for panel and block houses and on the second day for Stalin's houses.

As slopes, either a Belgian sandwich panel (in the image) or German VEKA plastic slopes with removable casings is used.

The differences between the various plastic slopes are not significant, but you should be aware of them.

The Belgian sandwich panel can be installed at dawn (not at right angles to the window), which visually enlarges the window opening. Choice plastic slopes VEKA is justified for more accurate wallpapering with already installed slopes. Thanks to the removable casing, the edges of the wallpaper will be neatly hidden under it.

Advice: if you have a repair in your apartment, then it is better to install the architraves on the slopes from the Belgian sandwich panel after gluing the wallpaper yourself - it will turn out neater and prettier).

Installing window accessories

At the final stage, a double-glazed window is installed in the window frame and the sashes are hung. Installation of additional accessories, fastening of additional fittings and accessories, such as: a stepped ventilator, a clamp, mosquito net, blinds, etc.

The window is ready. Upon completion of all work, an act of acceptance and delivery of work is signed. In it, if necessary, the customer indicates his comments on the work performed, if any.

Almost immediately after completing all the work, the PVC window can be used. The exception is windows with large opening sashes, which are not recommended to be opened within 24 hours after installing the PVC window.

Plastic window functionality is much better than old wooden windows. If you follow the simple instructions for its care and operation, it will serve you forever.

Do not forget to remove the protective film from the outside of the PVC window!

According to GOST 30674 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles":
Removal protective film from the front surfaces of the profiles should be made after the installation of products and finishing the mounting opening, taking into account that the duration of exposure to sunlight on the protective film should not exceed ten days.

If repairs are still underway in the room where the windows were installed, the protective film may remain on the product until they are completed. However, from the outside, the film should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 10 days.

The adhesive base of the protective film loses its properties when exposed to heat and UV and can spoil the aesthetic appearance plastic profile.

General requirements for installation according to GOST

GOST 30971-2002 “Mounting seams for adjoining window blocks to wall openings. Are common specifications» was put into effect by the order of the Gosstroy of the Russian Federation from 01.03.2003.

Due to the need to adjust the project documentation for design and construction organizations, the transition period for the development of GOST is set until 01.07.2003. The republics of Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova and Uzbekistan joined the Russian norms.

What's new? The new norms bring a significant formalization of window installation and require numerous documents. Among them, it should be noted the need for each installation company to have “Windows installation instructions” approved by local authorities, the need to develop window installation assemblies for each facility under construction and coordinate the assemblies with the customer, it is recommended to analyze thermal fields, and it is also provided for the execution of delivery certificates - acceptance window openings before installation, acts of carrying out hidden works and certificates of acceptance of the completed installation of windows.

Of particular interest in the norms are the Applications:

Annex A (recommended) is drawings with examples of window installation;
Annex B (recommended) puts forward requirements for fastening windows in openings;
Annex B (mandatory) represents the actual requirements for the installation of windows as a whole and, in fact, is the main working document;
Annex D (recommended) describes the requirements for the method for calculating thermal fields (analysis of isotherms).

In general, Russian installation standards bring us closer to the standards adopted in Europe, and, in particular, in Germany.

GOST requires window companies a large number formalities and has more requirements for testing joint designs and materials used for them.

Formalization is justified by the fight against Russian negligence.

Testing of materials and seams as a whole is justified by the fact that until now in Russia there were no detailed standards for installation at all, there is no accumulated scientific experience in determining the properties of installation materials and the quality of seams. Of course, there is no need for the consumer to know all the provisions of this GOST, this is the responsibility of professionals.

Without delving into the subtleties, we can talk about three basic principles for installing windows, which you need to pay close attention to.

Three layers of seam seal

The content of the main part of the norms is devoted to the rules for filling the mounting gap between window blocks and openings according to the principle “tighter from the inside than from the outside”. Each assembly assembly must have three layers of sealing: outside - protection from climatic influences, in the middle - insulation, inside - vapor barrier. Can be used different materials for the outer layers and different mounting foams, but, in one version or another, these three termination planes must be present.

outer layer It is designed to protect the insulation layer from the penetration of moisture into it, and must have vapor permeability so that there is ventilation of the insulation through it. That is, the outer layer must be waterproof and vapor-permeable.

These requirements are due to the fact that when moisture penetrates into the insulation, its thermal insulation qualities fall. The best way modern requirements for the outer layer correspond to PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tapes). These are special mounting tapes that are glued to the window frame before it is installed in the opening, and then, expanding, they fill all the gaps in the quarter in the opening.

With serious advantages: optimal building physics and technological simplicity, they also have disadvantages. It is convenient to use these tapes in new construction, when the opening has a good geometry. But when replacing windows in old houses, when the slopes are uneven, and even more so, plaster, their use is difficult. Another drawback is that plaster does not fall on PSUL.

In a limited form, it is possible to use silicone on the outside. In this case, certain rules should be observed: the thickness of the silicone layer should be half the width of the joint being filled, and the silicone should be glued only on both sides and work in tension, the rest of its sides should remain free.

Sealant can be used when insulating a mounting seam. Although it is not clearly spelled out in GOST, there is also no ban on its use, no matter how much supporters of mounting tapes would like. An example of the use of silicone outside and inside the room is shown on node A.14 in GOST 30971-2002. It is unacceptable, of course, as you can sometimes observe on objects, just anointing with silicone over the foam - this is an imitation of the protection of the seam, but not the protection itself.

Central layer- heat-insulating. Currently, polyurethane foams are used for its execution. It is best to use foams designed specifically for installing windows. Such foams evenly fill the seam and do not need to be trimmed after hardening. Other foams, after installation, hang in shreds from the side of the room, and they are cut off, breaking the protective outer crust.

The inner layer- vapor barrier. Its function is to protect the insulation (foam) from the penetration of moisture vapor into it from the side of the room. For these purposes, when plastering slopes, vapor barrier tapes are used, mainly based on butyl, as well as paint vapor barriers for moisture resistant drywall. It is possible to use silicone according to the rules mentioned above.

No cold bridges

A mounting seam is a node where wall and window structures are docked, which have completely different properties, including in terms of heat engineering. And it is important to execute the nodes in such a way that there are no cold bridges on the window slopes.

Basically, the problem of cold bridges is the problem of single-layer wall structures that were used in houses of the past (solid brick, expanded clay concrete, etc.). In this case, the weak zone is the wall itself around the window frame, due to its low resistance heat transfer. An area with a surface temperature below the dew point appears on the slope. In this area, firstly, high heat losses occur, and secondly, condensate falls on it. If moisture condensation on the slope occurs frequently, then fungus (mold) may subsequently form in these places. The same applies to openings without quarters. In their absence, the danger of cold bridges seriously increases, and here one should carefully consider the heat engineering of the junction points.

Important recommendation- in the absence of quarters, use window frames with a width of at least 130 mm. With a narrow window frame, high-quality sealing of the seam is difficult and there is a high probability of cold bridges. The options given in GOST with false quarters from the corners or from the casing are possible only if exterior plaster, and still remain problematic from the point of view of heat engineering.

When present in the wall effective insulation(mineral wool or non-combustible polystyrene foam) the window should either be in the plane of the insulation, or behind a quarter of the insulation. In walls where aerated concrete is combined with external cladding and brick quarters, as a rule, cold bridges also do not occur due to the good thermal properties of aerated concrete.

Fastening the window block in the opening

The specificity of plastic windows is that they have significant thermal linear expansion. That is, when windows are heated by sunlight, the bars of the box and sashes increase in size. As calculated values of thermal expansion for white windows, 1.5 mm per 1 running meter, for colored windows - 2.5 mm per 1 running meter (the difference in thermal expansion is due to the fact that white window profiles heat up much less than colored ones).

In accordance with this factor, the window is fastened to the wall. The corners of plastic windows must remain free, the outermost fasteners are placed at a distance of 150 mm from internal corners ram. The remaining fasteners are placed around the entire perimeter with a pitch for white profiles of no more than 70 cm, for colored profiles no more than 60 cm. Fasteners are also placed near imposts at a distance of 150 mm from the corner. The gap between the box and the wall must be at least 15 mm. This is due both to the thermal expansion of the windows and to the fact that it is very difficult to evenly fill a thinner seam with foam insulation.

Bearing pads are placed under the lower corners of the box and under the imposts. The blocks are also placed from the sides as follows: if you look at the window from the inside, then with one rotary sash, the blocks are placed on the opposite side of the hinges at the top and on the same side as the hinges below. With two wings, four blocks are placed, respectively.

Schematic diagrams of the junctions of window frames to the walls

1 - window sill;
2 - foam insulation;
3 - vapor barrier tape;
4 - flexible anchor plate;
5 - support block under the window sill;
6 - plaster mortar;
7 - dowel with a locking screw;
8 - an insert made of antiseptic lumber or a leveling layer of plaster mortar (recommended only for the lower node);
9 - waterproof vapor-permeable tape;
10 - noise-absorbing gasket;
11 - drain;
12 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL);
13 - sealant with a thin layer

1 - foam insulation;
2 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL) or vapor-permeable mastic;
3 - frame dowel;
4 - sealant;
5 - vapor barrier tape;
6 - panel for finishing the inner slope;
7 - plaster leveling layer of the inner slope.

Thermal gaps must be taken into account especially carefully when designing large-sized glazing elements: when making bay windows, shop windows, glazing for the entire floor height. These are the three main principles for installing modern windows, although, of course, there are many nuances and subtleties that depend on the various wall designs and on the materials used to seal the seam. And - as we said at the beginning of the article - the human factor is very important - responsible and quality work installers.

When can windows be installed?

With the entry into force of Moscow law No. 42 "On silence", disturbing the peace of neighbors is an administrative violation. Carefully read our noisy work instructions in order to comply with the requirements in force in Moscow and the Moscow region in various buildings.

How much does it cost to install windows according to GOST

The cost consists of two components: the cost of work (hours) and materials.

The mounting seam will comply with GOST for the installation of windows, using both expensive and economical materials. The use of one or another will affect the phasing (duration) of work and the final cost of installing windows.

Video instruction for the installation of plastic windows

If you are planning to replace or insert new windows, you need to look into the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands, or by attracting a third-party company. To make the dismantling and installation of the structure, it takes about 4 hours if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will take no more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows on your own requires building skills.

Complete set of window system

Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to understand the nuances and details. First you need to know all the names of parts and materials. The main bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from a plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, two-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. V plastic systems this insert is made of plastic, metal is used in metal-plastic ones.

The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers

In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the factory are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. By color, white windows are most common, but other colors can be used: wood effect, brown. Products from a color profile will be more expensive than white.

Components of a plastic window

The main element of the window unit is the frame

The design of the plastic window includes the following details:

frame - the main structural part;
if you have a large window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
the part that is motionless is called deaf, and the one that opens is called the sash;
double-glazed windows can be with different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using an inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
in order for the glasses to hold securely, they are pressed with a glazing bead, which is a thin plastic bar. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
on the inside of the frame, ventilated holes are made for drainage, which are covered with caps. The moisture generated by the drop temperature regime on the street and inside the room, gets out through them;
another part of the design is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

Is it possible to install the window yourself

There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know when installing? To perform these works, you do not need special professional tools and equipment, vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:

dismantling of the old window block;
installing a new window.

Dismantling the old window takes an average of 1.5 hours

If we talk about the time required to complete the work, then the first stage will take about an hour and a half. Do-it-yourself window installation will take less than three hours. I must say that if, nevertheless, you decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should require certain guarantees from them.

If you have installed tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase designs directly from the manufacturer, who has been working on the market for a long time, has good feedback from clients. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in the winter, you can always count on a significant discount.

When a window is purchased from a company that also carries out installation work, the customer has a guarantee for fittings of about 5 years. At self installation you can get a guarantee directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.

In order to install windows in brick house, cinder block, gas block or apartment, you first need to order a swing-out or blind design from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.

Step-by-step instructions for correct measurement

When you place an order, you will be required to specify the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.

Before ordering a window, it is necessary to correctly measure the design

Before you start measuring, be sure to important point- what kind of opening do you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, then you have a quarter opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: it is necessary to measure the narrowest part, it will be necessary to measure in several places, find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done like this: after measuring the width, 3 cm is subtracted; having measured the height, minus 5 cm. Read the detailed article about.

Before measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter

To determine the dimensions of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For the ebb, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes a little beyond the battery.

In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide which constituent parts your design will be completed: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows do you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Do not forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).

If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height must be the same, you must choose the smallest size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor.. In apartments, from the floor to the window is about 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be any at the discretion of the owners.

Features of measurements for glazing balconies

To determine the width glass construction, it is necessary to measure in length that part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm on each side. This distance will be required for the installation of the corner profile, to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, while subtracting a tolerance of 3 cm for the gap.

How to take measurements of windows in a country house

For correct measurement dimensions of the structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that during the dismantling of the structure, a part of the materials that filled the space will be simultaneously removed.

Preparing to install a window structure

After you take out the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that can fall off or collapse, if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large recesses, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with soil.

Base needs to be cleaned prior to installation.

Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare a PVC window, the installation of which is to be. To do this, it is necessary to remove the window sashes, if it is deaf - double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.

Installation Technology Guide

The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on the support blocks and aligned horizontally. After that, using a level, the window is set vertically and fixed in this position with spacer blocks.

Installation of both blind windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without a structure. When applying the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.

When installing a window by unpacking, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, where anchors are then driven in

Places for anchoring anchors and support blocks

If the installation is done without opening the frame, the window is fixed using special ones that are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be borne in mind that with significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live is characterized by a strong wind load or windows are to be installed at a height, then it is worth using the option of unbaking the frame.

Mounting on anchor plates

There are nuances for placing a window in an opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, bricks, cinder blocks, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed in a depth of 2/3 of the internal thickness of the opening. If the walls are insulated with polystyrene foam, then the fastening must be done up to the insulating layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, a window is installed in the insulation zone.

It is very important to choose the correct installation depth

The installation sequence must be followed:

inserting the frame, expose it to the level, using support and spacer blocks;
further attached to the wall;
after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
then you need to check normal work shutters and all mechanisms, for this, open and close the window;
after everything is checked, the sashes must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this, apply.

However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with the sun's rays and external environment the material loses its properties and is destroyed. To protect it, you need to create, it can be special film, which must be glued on the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.

In order for the correct installation to be done both on windows and, follow the simple rules:

we mount the ebb from the outside into a special slot in the frame or fasten it to it with self-tapping screws;
the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to cut it from the edges so that it fits in the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the support profile;
the level is leveled with special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.

According to the principle of the description above, windows are installed on a balcony or on a loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be borne by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.

Mistakes you can make when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has a long service life:

it is impossible to install the window with glazing beads outward, as this reduces the burglary resistance of the structure, since the glazing bead can be easily pulled out and the double-glazed window removed;
you need to carefully consider the alignment of structures to the level during the installation of the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
be sure to protect the mounting foam from direct sunlight in order to avoid its destruction;
fixation choice will be wrong frame structure only with mounting foam: it is imperative to mount it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

By following all the installation rules, you can successfully mount the window structure yourself, and if you turn to professionals for services, you can control their work at any stage.