• Date: 29-05-2014
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Correct overlap of the cellar

The size of the cellar room primarily depends on how much things you plan to store in it, and in shape it can be round, square and multifaceted. V : Bottom part, which goes into the ground, and the ground part (cellar), which is designed to protect the premises from high summer temperature and winter frosts.

It will be about how best to overlap the cellar, what are the nuances and what needs to be addressed Special attention in certain options for building a basement.

External arrangement of the basement

For the construction of the cellar, various construction material such as wood, concrete, natural stone, brick or boards with their further backfill. The cellar can be used as a regular storage room. Above the cellar, an overlap is made in the form of a flooring of boards on pre-assembled beams, and from above it is covered with heat-insulating material.

It is necessary to take a very responsible attitude to the construction of the vault of the cellar:

• an earthen cellar must have gable roof that descends to ground level. For its construction, you can use reeds, branches or straw, which is mixed with clay. The roof lathing itself is made of boards, under the bottom of which roofing material or roofing felt is placed. Often, in order to exclude freezing, the overlap is insulated with peat;
• the roof of the cellar, in the design of which the cellar is provided, is made pitched, and to ensure the dryness of the walls, the overhangs must be protruding;
• performing the correct calculation and masonry of the vaulted roof of the stone cellar will ensure the strength and reliability of the entire building. It is done on timber formwork with circles, which must be carried out simultaneously from both sides. In the presence of dry places, vaults can be built from unbaked red brick;
• the roof of the deboned above-ground cellar is made of clay, which is mixed with straw. After that, polyethylene or roofing material is applied to it.

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Basement overlap options

Waterproofing scheme from the side of the cellar: 1- overlap of the cellar; 2- wooden blockhouse; 3- brick wall of the cellar; 4- coating with bitumen mastic; 5- filling the sinuses; 6- concrete base; 7- preparation from compacted rubble; 8- glued anti-pressure waterproofing; 9- protective wall; 10 - cement plaster.

After the pit is filled at ground level, the next stage of construction follows - the overlap of the cellar. As a rule, for this purpose, a kind of cornice is built around the entire perimeter of the pit made of ceramic red brick. It should be borne in mind that the laying of each row of bricks should protrude outward by about 3 cm more in comparison with the previous row. Then the cornice is covered with roofing material, on top of which any of the bulk insulation should be laid. After that you need to do cement screed, the thickness of which is at least 2 cm, and paste over with roofing felt.

For the construction of the vault can be used various material, it all depends on the type of structure and the availability of funds for this, but in any case, the structure must be strong, since a large load will act on it. In addition, close attention should be paid to the performance of waterproofing the basement floor.

You can also make a basement overlap from wood. For this, beams are initially made, and after that they are covered with beams or boards. It should be noted that when using wood for the construction of the basement floor, it must be treated with an antiseptic.

After the installation of the slab from the boards, thermal insulation material is applied. Alternatively, you can use ordinary clay, which is subsequently covered with dry earth. The thermal insulation layer must be at least 0.5 m thick.

There is one but a very significant drawback in using wood for the construction of a basement floor - the wood lends itself to decay.

The cellar overlap scheme is made of a slab insulated with clay grease and earth.

That's why wooden floors quite often it is necessary to repair.

According to experts, the most the best material to cover the basement is a reinforced concrete slab or concrete mix... Of course, due to the presence of reinforcement in a reinforced concrete slab, it is much stronger than concrete... With this design of the floor, special attention should be paid to the sealing of the seams. For this purpose, you need to use a cement mortar. Often, it is necessary to make concrete, and even a solution, at home, while it is best to give preference to cement with the M 200 or M 300 brand.

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Features of using concrete slabs

After iron concrete plates laid, and the joining seams are sealed cement mortar, their surface is covered with 2 layers of heated bitumen, and sheet roofing material is laid on top of them. For insulation of the slab, as a rule, slag wool is used.

Often, a cellar is built over a cellar with such an overlap, this will create additional protection for it. The shelter of the cellar itself is recommended to be made of materials that poorly transmit heat. Experts also argue that the door must be built from the north side so that on a hot summer day it is less heated by the sun's rays.

A hatch is often made in the basement floor, which is intended for admission fresh air... It is recommended to build a ventilation system in the basement. This requires only two pipes, which are led out into the street through a hatch or directly through the ceiling.

The cellar can be built either under the building, or on open area terrain. In the first version, the floor is always built flat, and in the second it can be made gable.

The correct floor created under the building must be supported by the ground or beams. In both options, it is best to use large-panel reinforced concrete slabs. Do not forget that before installing them, you must first lay the boards under the plates, which will be necessary for hemming the ceiling surface. The resulting ceiling voids must be filled with heat-insulating material before filing. The slabs should be welded on their crest and rest on the beam, and the bottom on the ground. This position of the slabs will reduce the load on the walls.

How to make a basement overlap in the absence of large-panel reinforced concrete slabs? According to experts, you can use slate, under which you pre-mount a solid foundation. In this case, the seams of the floor are sealed with cement mortar, after which the slate floor is covered with soil, which is compacted tightly.

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Overlapping the basement when building a garage

Many vehicle owners have a garage that has basement from concrete blocks. Such a garage will allow you to store not only equipment and spare parts, but also food in it. In order to feel completely safe while in the garage, you need to adhere to some basic conditions when building a cellar.

When building a basement, the main attention should be paid to the structure of the floor itself, since its variety depends on the size of the garage, the size of the basement, and, of course, on the amount of equipment that will be left in the garage. Experts recommend to provide a basement in the execution plan construction works even before they start. Then, when organizing the sequence of work, it will be possible to take into account all the requirements imposed on the design in an optimal way.

One of the important parameters of the overlap is its strength. It should not be forgotten that it primarily depends on the strength of the support of this floor. In the complex construction of a garage with a basement, it is best to use standard concrete slabs as a floor. Thus, the basement walls will act as a load-bearing foundation for the entire garage building and, at the same time, as a support element.

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Influence of soil on basement construction

During operation, horizontal forces will act on the walls of the basement from all sides of the surrounding soil. These forces are trying to deform them. Based on this, the thickness of the walls to be erected should increase in proportion to the depth of the pit. The walls of the cellar are best constructed from concrete blocks. If you don't have enough funds to acquire them, you can build instead concrete walls using sliding formwork.

The bottom of the cellar is covered with a layer of rubble approximately 10 cm thick and a layer of sand at least 5 cm thick. strip foundation... It should be noted that this foundation will be affected by the walls of the cellar, its overlap and the entire structure of the garage room.

In order to do everything properly, experts recommend conducting exploration work at the construction site. This will make it possible to find out if underground utilities are located below, for example, an electric or telephone cable, or, perhaps, groundwater is close enough to the surface.

When the garage is planned to be placed on soil that is abundantly saturated with moisture, it is necessary to create a circular drainage system - this will remove moisture from the area adjacent to the garage. But under any circumstances, it is necessary to perform external waterproofing of the basement of the cellar.

If the construction will take place on a sufficiently dry ground, waterproofing can be done by applying two layers of hot bitumen. If the soil at the construction site is wet, it will be necessary to paste over the concrete blocks with rolled roofing felt, which has a bitumen base.

Excellent waterproof and yet also insulation material it is considered to be expanded polystyrene. This material is highly resistant to decay and mildew. Installation of this type of insulation is done by pasting over concrete blocks from the outside. It should be borne in mind that the size of the slabs is carefully adjusted to each other, and the joints are also subject to finishing.

Most car owners prefer to have a garage with a basement made of concrete blocks. This garage can be used to store food, spare parts and equipment. In order to feel safe while in the garage, some fundamental conditions should be observed when constructing a cellar. When arranging a basement, the main attention should be paid to the structure of the cellar overlap. It can be varied and depend on the size of the garage, the size of the basement and the number of cars parked in the garage. It is best to provide a basement in the plan before starting the construction of the garage. Then, in the course of organizing the sequence of works, all design requirements can be optimally fulfilled. When arranging a cellar, after the garage is built, inconveniences arise that require time and effort.

The scheme of the cellar in the garage.

Focus should be on strength concrete slabs above the basement. Its strength is greatly influenced by the support of this floor. In a complex arrangement of a garage with a basement, standard concrete slabs are most often used as an overlap. In this version, the walls of the cellar turn out to be the supporting foundation for the entire garage and, at the same time, the support on which the ceiling is laid. During operation, horizontal forces from the surrounding soil begin to act on the walls of the basement. These forces tend to deform the basement walls. Therefore, the thickness of the walls should increase in proportion to the depth of the basement. The bottom of the dug pit is covered with a layer of 10 cm of crushed stone and 5 cm of sand. Then a strip foundation is made. The garage will act on this foundation with all its weight, the walls of the cellar and the ceiling. Basement walls are best constructed from concrete blocks. But if it is expensive, then instead of concrete blocks, you can make the walls concrete using sliding formwork.

The layout of the cellar in the garage.

If everything is done properly, then you need to order survey work at the construction site. This will allow you to find out if there are underground utilities below, for example, an electric or telephone cable, or closely located groundwater... If the garage is on a soil saturated with moisture, then you need to make a circular drainage system to remove moisture from the area adjacent to the garage. In any case, waterproofing of the foundation and basement blocks from the outside is needed. If the construction site is on dry ground, then it is enough to coat the blocks from the outside with hot bitumen in two layers. If the soil is wet, then it is required to pasting the blocks with roofing material on bituminous mastic... A good insulating and at the same time waterproof material is expanded polystyrene. This material is highly resistant to mold and decay. Installation of such insulation is done by simply pasting the blocks from the outside. The size of the slabs must be carefully matched to each other. The joints are glued too.

Basement layout.

If the basement is being built in a built garage, then standard concrete slabs cannot be used as a floor, because they are installed with a crane. The overlap is done by laying load-bearing beams. It is best to use I-beams. For this purpose, motorists use pieces of railroad rails purchased from scrap metal collection points. The mine rails for the load-bearing girder will be weak. They can be used as transverse elements laid perpendicular to the load-bearing beams. For the ends of the supporting beams, beds are provided on the walls of the basement. In general, the basement walls serve as the foundation for the entire garage. Into the space between load-bearing beams fittings are laid. The lower formwork is installed, on which the concrete is laid. It turns out a homemade reinforced concrete slab.

If the size of the cellar in terms of plan is small, compared to the area of ​​the garage, then there may be another option for overlapping above the basement. If the car is parked in a place where there is no basement, then only a viewing ditch is arranged at the place of its installation. The basement will be located in a place where there is no load from the weight of the car and the overlap can be made lightweight. In all cases, the ceiling above the basement requires insulation. Insulation ensures the absence of wet condensation and therefore directly affects protection metal structures from corrosion. The ventilation of the cellar and garage is of great importance for the absence of moisture. Warming and ventilation should be considered in more detail.

Insulation of ceilings, walls and blocks

Cellar floor insulation scheme.

The overlap of the cellar can be insulated in several ways. One of them is that pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are installed horizontally 15 cm from the ceiling with an attachment pitch of about 60 cm. These pipes can be attached to walls or to the ceiling. Reinforcing bars made of wire with a diameter of 8-10 mm are attached perpendicularly to the pipes. They are fastened soft wire... It is better to paint the entire structure with chromium oxide, red lead or other waterproof paint. Polyethylene bags are placed in the space between the ceiling and the resulting structure. Previously, forest moss or chopped straw is placed in the bags and sealed with an iron. The bags are stacked without a gap on top of each other and tightly together. Sheets of galvanized iron, waterproof plywood or plastic wrap... They are used as an umbrella from which condensate must drain into a bucket or some other container through pre-arranged grooves.

Can be used for ceiling insulation building mixture with the addition of cement and sawdust. The layer of such a solution can reach 20 cm. After complete drying, a plaster mortar is applied after a few days. The same method can be used to insulate the walls of the basement. The floor is insulated with glass wool or other insulation, laid between the logs under the finishing coating. If the water table is high, then a drainage system should be arranged around the garage. The bottom of the cellar deepens 30 cm from the intended floor level. A layer of crushed stone of about 10 cm is poured onto the leveled soil. Sand is poured onto the crushed stone with a layer of 5 cm. All layers are compacted. The basement entrance cover is made with a grate or mesh, so that ventilation is better, and small animals cannot enter. For the winter, the lid is closed with insulation.

Cellar insulation scheme.

The best insulation for floors, walls and ceilings is polyurethane foam. It is applied by spraying directly onto the surface of the insulation. The entire inner surface of the basement is blown out with foam. Insulation fills all the cracks, penetrating into inaccessible places. The fast hardening results in a smooth surface without seams and voids. Polyurethane foam has a very low thermal conductivity. It is practically weightless, so it will not additionally load bearing structures... With this method, the basement is insulated very quickly, and the only drawback is the high price of the material.

Ventilation of the space

Ventilation scheme of the cellar and garage space.

The correct ventilation device is a guarantee that moisture will not linger in the basement. With good ventilation, moisture will not damage your food supply. Knowing how dangerous garage exhaust fumes can be, ventilation should be at height and in the main garage. In most cases, it is used natural ventilation, in which the air movement is carried out due to the temperature difference between the incoming air and the one available inside. If the air change is done in an insufficient volume, then it makes sense to install a fan. At such a time of the year, when the air temperature outside and in the cellar room is equalized, ventilation stops. There will be no ventilation even when the outside temperature is higher than in the basement. Artificial and natural ventilation can be carried out through one channel. Artificial ventilation can be with one hole.

Garage ventilation protects not only food and wall surfaces, but also the vehicle itself. When they put the car in the garage in winter, snow remains on the wheels and body. After thawing, the air becomes very humid, which increases the likelihood of corrosion of metal parts.

Working conditions

Cellar and garage ventilation scheme.

Hole supply pipe arrange at a distance of 10-15 cm from the floor of the cellar. Above the ground, the suction opening should be at a height of 30-40 cm. It is equipped with a net to prevent the entry of small animals. The hole must be protected by a so-called deflector. This device consists of a sheet, curved in an arc and attached in the form of a fungus to the suction port. The deflector is designed to protect against precipitation.

For natural ventilation to work, there must be a difference in height between the suction and outlet openings in ventilation pipes... The minimum value of such a difference, providing a pressure drop, is 3 meters.

The supply pipe should be positioned so that it is constantly exposed to the wind. Lack of natural ventilation manifests itself in very coldy when the pipe can be blocked by frost. To prevent this disadvantage, it is necessary to insulate the pipelines. The pipes should be periodically cleaned of snow and frost.

Cellar ventilation scheme.

It turns out that natural ventilation can malfunction, not coping with the work all year round. Therefore, in chimney you can insert a fan. It pushes exhaust air into the pipe and creates conditions for the inflow of fresh air. The disadvantage is that in the cold season, the basement and garage can be hypothermic. There are systems with fans at the inlet and outlet, and a two-speed fan is installed at the outlet. The ventilation control system is equipped with temperature and gas level sensors. When the garage is full of exhaust gases, the second speed of the exhaust fan turns on. Modern systems in European garages, they are equipped with fans to calculate the need for an optimal climate in the garage. All switching operations and fan speeds are controlled by a computer program. We consider the simplest devices and the usual garage of our domestic motorist so that the owner of the garage has a good idea of ​​the effect of ventilation and takes timely measures to eliminate failures.

Implementation results

Scheme of a garage with a cellar.

A garage with a cellar made of concrete blocks is a fairly reliable structure. No one denies the usefulness and functionality of such a structure. However, when arranging the overlap of the cellar in the garage, it is necessary to provide for all the nuances associated with the distribution of loads on the walls of concrete blocks, the effect of insulation and ventilation on the state of the structure and atmosphere of the garage. When planning, you need to organize the sequence of work in such a way as to provide maximum comfort... It is best to design the garage entirely with a concrete block basement to ensure the functionality of all devices. Neglect of insulation can damage the floor due to increased moisture condensation with subsequent corrosion of the supporting structures.

The ventilation value is also great to avoid unnecessary condensation. Insufficient waterproofing of walls and foundations, as well as the lack of a circular drainage system can lead to flooding of the basement. This garage will become a breeding ground for swamp-smelling mosquitoes.

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Basement hatches should:

• Look good.
• Close the basement entrance securely.

How to build a basement hatch

• Metal corners.
• Rubber for sealing.
• Screwdriver.
• Self-tapping screws for fixing the sheet.
• Bulgarian.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.

The order of work

.

1. tile is tiled;
2. board;
3. parquet.

It is recommended to open the hatch and clean it once a year. What basement hatches you can make yourself is well shown by our instructions and video on our portal. => Do-it-yourself hatch into the basement => => publish => open => closed => => lyuk-v-podval-44 => => => 2019-03-27 20:07:08 => 2019-03 -27 16:07:08 => => 0 =>? P = 676 => 0 => post => => 4 => raw => index, follow)) => 1 => -1 => => WP_Post Object (=> 676 => 2 => 2015-06-12 20:14:15 => 2015-06-12 16:14:15 => Basement hatch Basement hatches are devices that provide an entrance to the basement. With him quality workmanship it is possible not only to save space in the dwelling, but it also allows you to hide the presence of the basement itself. For many, this is a prerequisite. Here you can store unnecessary things, potatoes, canned goods and other food products. A feature of the basement is that the temperature remains at approximately the same level throughout the entire period. How to make a basement hatch with your own hands is invited to learn from this article.

Features of the construction of the hatch for the entrance to the basement

Basement hatches should:

• Look good.
• Fit into the space around them as best as possible.
• Close the basement entrance securely.
• Have a simple enough mechanism to open the cellar.
• Even with the very large dimensions of the hatch itself, the mechanism for opening it should be convenient, and the device should be opened with little effort.
• Most often, the hatch is an ordinary wooden square of small thickness, lifted with two handles.
• If the product weighs more than 10 kilograms, the device of the electric motor and other elements of the automatic system will be useful.

Electric sunroof

• The dimensions of the hatch must correspond to the shaft of the basement being created. Otherwise, numerous problems may arise, which, after detection, will create difficulties and the process of constructing the hatch will have to start from the very beginning.
• The hatch must be of such a design that the passage is easily hidden by the floor covering. In this case, its upper plane should be at floor level.
• The design of the device must be reliable, during the day it will probably be stepped on more than a dozen times.

Tip: How complex the hatch device will be depends on its owner. In any case, he must keep the dwelling well from dampness, which can lead to mold and mildew.

How to build a basement hatch

Before you make a hatch to the basement, you need to purchase the following materials and tools:

• Metal corners.
• Rolled sheets, up to 5 mm thick.
• Rubber for sealing.
• Welding machine and electrodes.
• Screwdriver.
• Self-tapping screws for fixing the sheet.
• Bulgarian.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.

The order of work

You need to start building a floor hatch into the basement by creating a kind of frame for it that fits perfectly into the overall structure. For this:

• With the help of electric welding, a workpiece is assembled from metal corners for the main part of the structure, which can be square or rectangular.

Advice: In this case, it is necessary to provide a gap of up to five millimeters between the frame and the concrete opening filled with the sealant.

• High density rubber is used for sealing.
• The hatch cover can be wooden or metal, it all depends on the preferences and capabilities of the owner of the basement and on the material prevailing in the interior of the dwelling. V wooden house basement hatches on top should be the same.
• When making a frame from the corners on the lid, you should blunt the sharp edges and adjust the dimensions to the frame. The top cover should be slightly wider from the bottom.
• The dimensions are calculated, taking into account the thickness of the corner shelf, to tightly close the passage.
• In most cases, the hatch cover is put on hinges, which allows you to significantly save forces when opening it, and the density of the hatch should be sufficient and prevent moisture from penetrating into the basement.
• Outdoor hinges are usually available from any hardware store. The main thing is that they correspond to the dimensions of the hatch. In this case, some elements are hinged to the metal corners, and the second are attached directly to the lid. For this, it is better to use self-tapping screws.

How to use gas shock absorbers for the floor hatch

Manhole with gas shock absorbers Gas spring floor hatches are used to access different premises, communications located below floor level. The features of such structures are:

• For the manufacture of floor hatches, durable steel is used with protection powder paint from corrosion.
• Argon-arc welding is used for assembly.
• Any floor covering up to 20 millimeters high is taken for lining the lid. This could be:

1. tile is tiled;
2. natural or artificial stone;
3. board;
4. parquet.

A neatly assembled and tiled floor hatch will become invisible against the background of the floor covering.

• The hatch is opened to a low height with a handle, and then gas springs are used.
• Shock absorbers guarantee the inspection door easy, smooth, and most importantly safe closing and opening of the hatch without unexpected jerks.

Tip: The correct force calculation for gas shock absorbers allows you to open the inspection hatch without the slightest effort.

• The special design allows the manufacture of sufficiently large revision palaces, completely preserving their strength, and even a large mass of the hatch cover, with the device of gas shock absorbers and a special design of the hinge, will open 90 degrees in one motion.
• Device for floor hatches in the basement with gas shock absorbers rubber seal, allows you not to let moisture, extraneous odors into the basement and prevent a draft.

What are the features of installing hatches in the basement for tiling

Basement hatches for tiles have some features for installation and maintenance, besides, the price of such devices is slightly higher than the others:

• In such designs, troughs are provided at the top for horizontal installation.
• When laying flooring and then the setting of the lifting mechanism is prohibited from operation floor hatch.

The procedure for installing a floor hatch under a tile with your own hands and filling its trough is as follows:

• Detaches lifting mechanism devices.
• The marking of the installation of the structure is in progress. For this, the floor hatch fits neatly into the opening. Both planes are regulated by level.
• The top of the floor hatch must be flush with the bottom tiles.
• Before filling the trough, it is necessary to disconnect the lifting mechanism and close the hatch sash, a flat belt must be placed under it for the subsequent lifting of its sash. The trough of the device is filled with concrete.
• After the mix reaches 90% strength, the trough is opened. Remaining mortar left between the trough and the frame should be removed and the outer edge of the trough cleaned and inner side frames.
• According to the attached floor hatch diagram, the lifting mechanism is connected.
• Glued finishing material as shown in the photo.

Bonding finishing material

• To prevent adhesion after sealing the joints, the gap between the frame and the trough must be carefully cleaned.

Tip: In order to achieve the best heat and sound insulation and performance properties of the hatch, no hollow spaces should be allowed between the opening and the hatch frame. They must be carefully sealed with sealant or "polyurethane foam".

• A rubber seal is glued around the frame perimeter.

It is recommended to open the hatch and clean it once a year. What basement hatches you can make yourself is well shown by our instructions and video on our portal. => Do-it-yourself hatch into the basement => => publish => open => closed => => lyuk-v-podval-44 => => => 2019-03-27 20:07:08 => 2019-03 -27 16:07:08 => => 0 =>? P = 676 => 0 => post => => 4 => raw => index, follow) => 0 => -1 => 385 => 385 => 0 => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => 1 => => => => = > => => => => => => => => => Array (=> query_vars_hash => query_vars_changed) => Array (=> init_query_flags => parse_tax_query))

I recently bought myself a home. The former owner turned out to be a decent person and immediately warned me that the boards from which the floor above the basement was made had rotted from time and damp and required urgent replacement. He probably feared that in one wonderful moment I could fail there. The basement itself was located in the house under the kitchen and had the following dimensions: width - 2.4 m, length - 2.3 m. From the inside it was lined with bricks and plastered with a layer of clay.
The floor above him lay on two wooden beams and consisted of boards and chipboard boards laid on top of them. It was made crooked and deteriorated to such an extent that it was really dangerous to walk on it. All the wood was broken by carpenter beetles, and some chipboard plates damp and became loose.
At first, I hoped to simply replace the boards on it, but then, slowly thinking everything over, I decided to do metal carcass and fill it with concrete. Firstly, there will always be dampness in the basement, whatever one may say, which means that new boards, given the current quality of the forest, will definitely not be enough for a long time, and secondly, if you really do, then - reliably, once and for all, and what can be stronger than reinforced concrete?

Dismantling the old floor
The first step was to remove the chipboard, and then the boards. With the help of a nail puller, hammer and crowbar, I managed to do this in three hours. There were no problems with the slabs, but it took more time to disassemble the boards: they were nailed to the beams with huge nails, so they came off with great difficulty. After wood flooring the floor was completely removed, I had to remove a decent layer of earth (for one bayonet) with a shovel around the entire perimeter near the walls in order to remove all existing irregularities and plan the surface. This case took up the rest of the day. Welding work was to be done the next morning.

Frame fabrication
I did not regret the metal for making the frame. Perhaps he used it even more than necessary, but only in order not to put additional support pillars inside the cellar, which reduce its free space. The structure was based on thick-walled pipes (? 61 mm, wall thickness 5 mm), which I did not even have to buy. The fact is that earlier, heating was made from them in the house. It looked terrible, cumbersome, so it was only natural that I removed all this iron from the rooms, replacing it with modern heating devices... And the pipes, as you can see, came in handy for the basement.

First, I evenly distributed four powerful three-meter pipes, which are load-bearing beams, over the pit of the cellar (after 80 cm). Then, setting them exactly on the level, he began to weld them together. To do this, I needed pipes of a smaller diameter (? 32 mm - 12 m) and thick reinforcement (? 12 mm - 40 m). First of all, I welded 15 lintels between the beams, after which I strengthened the entire structure with reinforcing rods welded to them from below. The result is a very robust metal frame.

I would also like to dwell on the production of a frame framing the entrance to the basement. I made it out of shaped pipe 40/20 mm rectangular (length 70 cm, width 50 cm). What to look for here? Firstly, all the corners of the frame must be perfectly straight, the dimensions of the sides must be strictly maintained, otherwise the lid will not fit tightly into it, and it will start to see through from the cellar. Secondly, it should be welded in such a way that it is at the same height as the beam pipes, which are also lighthouses.

The cover itself was also made by me from a profile pipe (40/20 mm) and a thick piece of plywood, securely connected to its metal base with self-tapping screws. A corner welded to the underside of the framing frame served as a limiter for the lid, which excludes the possibility of its falling into the basement. That day I worked with welding from the heart: from the very morning until late at night, but still I finished the job. I burned almost two packs of electrodes alone, and breathed in acrid smoke - horror! (the pipes were in the paint).

Formwork installation
The metal frame was ready, but now I had to solve a new problem - to mount the formwork above the cellar. Considered different variants its manufacture, but in the end my choice fell on the chipboard boards, which were removed from the old floor. Why? First, close large space over the pit it was easier and faster with them, and secondly, there were practically no cracks where liquid concrete could have spilled, thanks to the slabs. I fastened them to the frame from the underside with a thick knitting wire: first I drilled holes in the chipboard with a drill, then I passed the wire through them, and then screwed it tightly to the armature with pliers. It turned out reliably, but given the weight of the concrete, I put several temporary supports on the bottom just in case.

Working with concrete is a serious challenge, especially if you need to concrete 12 m in one day? with a layer thickness of 10 cm. For this reason, I called a friend for help, having previously prepared everything necessary for this business: screening out gravel, cement, a mixing trough, shovels, buckets, as a rule. We distributed it like this: we mixed concrete together (in a ratio of 1/5), then one brought it in buckets to the place of pouring and poured it out, and the other - level it ready mix a three-meter rule, tightly pressing it to the lighthouses and making them frequent oscillatory movements to the sides.

The two worked together on a hunt. Having started working at eight o'clock in the morning, by lunchtime we had already finished pouring. The result was pleasing. The floor came out even, and the whole room was immediately transformed. Two days later, when it was already possible to walk on the concrete, I took the old car drive and, making circular movements with it on the floor surface, removed from it slight irregularities... Now all that remained was to wait for the concrete to dry completely.

Final chord
A week passed, and I started finishing work. First of all, I painted the dried concrete surface primer. But not for beauty, no, but to reduce the amount of dust that inevitably forms when walking. When the paint was dry, I put a waterproofing film on the floor to prevent moisture from the concrete from penetrating into the linoleum. After that, as you might have guessed, linoleum was laid, but not simple, but thick, insulated, with an abrasion-resistant surface that is not even afraid of being dragged over it. Expensive pleasure (price running meter about 2 thousand rubles), but, believe me, it's worth the money spent.

I decorated the entrance to the basement and the lid itself with a decorative metal corner. It turned out neatly and beautifully: under the corner it was possible to hide the unevenly cut edges of the linoleum, moreover, he pressed them tightly to the surface. I made the handle for the lid not ordinary, but removable so that it does not interfere when walking. To do this, I drilled the lid in the center, screwed a metal plate on its back side, to which I welded a regular nut pointwise. I made a special key for it, which is a small twig with a thread and a knob at the end.

Most car owners prefer to have a garage with a basement made of concrete blocks. This garage can be used to store food, spare parts and equipment. In order to feel safe while in the garage, some fundamental conditions should be observed when constructing a cellar. When arranging a basement, the main attention should be paid to the structure of the cellar overlap. It can be varied and depend on the size of the garage, the size of the basement and the number of cars parked in the garage. It is best to provide a basement in the plan before starting the construction of the garage. Then, in the course of organizing the sequence of works, all design requirements can be optimally fulfilled. When arranging a cellar, after the garage is built, inconveniences arise that require time and effort.

The main focus should be on the strength of the concrete slabs above the basement. Its strength is greatly influenced by the support of this floor. In a complex arrangement of a garage with a basement, standard concrete slabs are most often used as an overlap. In this version, the walls of the cellar turn out to be the supporting foundation for the entire garage and, at the same time, the support on which the ceiling is laid. During operation, horizontal forces from the surrounding soil begin to act on the walls of the basement. These forces tend to deform the basement walls. Therefore, the thickness of the walls should increase in proportion to the depth of the basement. The bottom of the dug pit is covered with a layer of 10 cm of crushed stone and 5 cm of sand. Then a strip foundation is made. The garage will act on this foundation with all its weight, the walls of the cellar and the ceiling. Basement walls are best constructed from concrete blocks. But if it is expensive, then instead of concrete blocks, you can make the walls concrete using sliding formwork.

If everything is done properly, then you need to order survey work at the construction site. This will allow you to find out if there are underground utilities below, for example, an electric or telephone cable, or nearby groundwater. If the garage is on a soil saturated with moisture, then you need to make a circular drainage system to remove moisture from the area adjacent to the garage. In any case, waterproofing of the foundation and basement blocks from the outside is needed. If the construction site is on dry ground, then it is enough to coat the blocks from the outside with hot bitumen in two layers. If the soil is wet, then it is required to glue the blocks with roofing material on bitumen mastic. A good insulating and at the same time waterproof material is expanded polystyrene. This material is highly resistant to mold and decay. Installation of such insulation is done by simply pasting the blocks from the outside. The size of the slabs must be carefully matched to each other. The joints are glued too.

Cellar in a built garage

If the basement is being built in a built garage, then standard concrete slabs cannot be used as a floor, because they are installed with a crane. The overlap is done by laying load-bearing beams. It is best to use I-beams. For this purpose, motorists use pieces of railroad rails purchased from scrap metal collection points. The mine rails for the load-bearing girder will be weak. They can be used as transverse elements laid perpendicular to the load-bearing beams. For the ends of the supporting beams, beds are provided on the walls of the basement. In general, the basement walls serve as the foundation for the entire garage. Reinforcement is placed in the space between the bearing beams. The lower formwork is installed, on which the concrete is laid. It turns out a homemade reinforced concrete slab.

If the size of the cellar in terms of plan is small, compared to the area of ​​the garage, then there may be another option. If the car is parked in a place where there is no basement, then only a viewing ditch is arranged at the place of its installation. The basement will be located in a place where there is no load from the weight of the car and the overlap can be made lightweight. In all cases, the ceiling above the basement requires insulation. Thermal insulation ensures the absence of wet condensation and therefore directly affects the protection of metal structures from corrosion. The ventilation of the cellar and garage is of great importance for the absence of moisture. Warming and ventilation should be considered in more detail.

Insulation of ceilings, walls and blocks

It can be insulated in several ways. One of them is that pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are installed horizontally 15 cm from the ceiling with an attachment pitch of about 60 cm. These pipes can be attached to walls or to the ceiling. Reinforcing bars made of wire with a diameter of 8-10 mm are attached perpendicularly to the pipes. They are fastened with soft wire. It is better to paint the entire structure with chromium oxide, red lead or other waterproof paint. Polyethylene bags are placed in the space between the ceiling and the resulting structure. Previously, forest moss or chopped straw is placed in the bags and sealed with an iron. The bags are stacked without a gap on top of each other and tightly together. Sheets of galvanized iron, waterproof plywood or plastic wrap are laid on top. They are used as an umbrella from which condensate must drain into a bucket or some other container through pre-arranged grooves.

You can use a mortar with the addition of cement and sawdust to insulate the ceiling. The layer of such a solution can reach 20 cm. After complete drying, a plaster mortar is applied after a few days. The same method can be used to insulate the walls of the basement. The floor is insulated with glass wool or other insulation, laid between the logs under the finishing coating. If the water table is high, then a drainage system should be arranged around the garage. The bottom of the cellar deepens 30 cm from the intended floor level. A layer of crushed stone of about 10 cm is poured onto the leveled soil. Sand is poured onto the crushed stone with a layer of 5 cm. All layers are compacted. The basement entrance cover is made with a grate or mesh, so that ventilation is better, and small animals cannot enter. For the winter, the lid is closed with insulation.

The best insulation for floors, walls and ceilings is polyurethane foam. It is applied by spraying directly onto the surface of the insulation. The entire inner surface of the basement is blown out with foam. Insulation fills all the cracks, penetrating into inaccessible places. The fast hardening results in a smooth surface without seams and voids. Polyurethane foam has a very low thermal conductivity. It is practically weightless, so it will not additionally load the supporting structures. With this method, the basement is insulated very quickly, and the only drawback is the high price of the material.

Ventilation of the space

The correct ventilation device is a guarantee that moisture will not linger in the basement. With good ventilation, moisture will not damage your food supply. Knowing how dangerous garage exhaust fumes can be, ventilation should be at height and in the main garage. In most cases, natural ventilation is used, in which air movement is carried out due to the temperature difference between the incoming air and the one available inside. If the air change is done in an insufficient volume, then it makes sense to install a fan. At such a time of the year, when the air temperature outside and in the cellar room is equalized, ventilation stops. There will be no ventilation even when the outside temperature is higher than in the basement. Artificial and natural ventilation can be carried out through one channel. Artificial ventilation can be with one hole.

Garage ventilation protects not only food and wall surfaces, but also the vehicle itself. When they put the car in the garage in winter, snow remains on the wheels and body. After thawing, the air becomes very humid, which increases the likelihood of corrosion of metal parts.

Working conditions

The opening of the supply pipe is arranged at a distance of 10-15 cm from the cellar floor. Above the ground, the suction opening should be at a height of 30-40 cm. It is equipped with a net to prevent the entry of small animals. The hole must be protected by a so-called deflector. This device consists of a sheet, curved in an arc and attached in the form of a fungus to the suction port. The deflector is designed to protect against precipitation.

For natural ventilation to work, there must be a difference in height between the suction and outlet openings in the ventilation pipes. The minimum value of such a difference, providing a pressure drop, is 3 meters.

The supply pipe should be positioned so that it is constantly exposed to the wind. The lack of natural ventilation manifests itself in severe frosts, when the chimney can be blocked by frost. To prevent this disadvantage, it is necessary to insulate the pipelines. The pipes should be periodically cleaned of snow and frost.

It turns out that natural ventilation can malfunction, not coping with the work all year round. Therefore, a fan can be inserted into the chimney. It pushes exhaust air into the pipe and creates conditions for the inflow of fresh air. The disadvantage is that in the cold season, the basement and garage can be hypothermic. There are systems with fans at the inlet and outlet, and a two-speed fan is installed at the outlet. The ventilation control system is equipped with temperature and gas level sensors. When the garage is full of exhaust gases, the second speed of the exhaust fan turns on. Modern systems in European garages are equipped with fans to calculate the need for an optimal climate in the garage. All switching operations and fan speeds are controlled by a computer program. We consider the simplest devices and the usual garage of our domestic motorist so that the owner of the garage has a good idea of ​​the effect of ventilation and takes timely measures to eliminate failures.

Implementation results

A garage with a cellar made of concrete blocks is a fairly reliable structure. No one denies the usefulness and functionality of such a structure. However, when arranging the overlap of the cellar in the garage, it is necessary to provide for all the nuances associated with the distribution of loads on the walls of concrete blocks, the effect of insulation and ventilation on the state of the structure and atmosphere of the garage. When planning, you need to organize the sequence of work in such a way as to provide maximum convenience for their implementation. It is best to design the garage entirely with a concrete block basement to ensure the functionality of all devices. Neglect of insulation can damage the floor due to increased moisture condensation with subsequent corrosion of the supporting structures.

The ventilation value is also great to avoid unnecessary condensation. Insufficient waterproofing of walls and foundations, as well as the absence of a circular drainage system, can lead to flooding of the basement. This garage will become a breeding ground for swamp-smelling mosquitoes.