Do-it-yourself wood milling machine - step-by-step instructions and drawings. How to make a do-it-yourself wood milling machine: detailed instructions and advice from the masters Universal do-it-yourself wood milling machine

For a long time I have not asked myself the question - to buy or to do it myself. When it comes to how you see work and what result you want to get, the answer is obvious. Do it only with your hands, but think with your head. Like everyone else, I surf the Internet, enthusiastically looking for homemade products, and shout out in surprise "hey, good fellow!" Today, on the pages of my favorite edition, I will tell you how to make a wood router with your own hands. Moreover, so as not to spend anything. Well, or practically nothing ...

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From theory to practice: we study the principle of operation of milling machines for wood

The greatest difficulty for a beginner "DIY" is the creation of a rotating cutter. The best machine is the one that can handle wood, both straight and curved. Here it is important to choose and fix the cutter head itself, which is the main working body of the cutter. It is fixed on a spindle, which is located on the motor shaft. Most often, this part is located vertically. The entire structure is mounted on a bed that can move along two axes. There are different types of machines, each of which has its own design features. If you are planning to do curly wood carving, then a manual router with a movable cutter is suitable for you. The technology used in hand cutters can be taken as a basis.

Such devices have a simple design. Key nodes and elements are hidden in the body. The driving force is provided by the motor. It "hides" in the body and fixes the holder for adapters or collets, into which cutters of various diameters are inserted and fixed.

However, not every craftsman will be satisfied with a hand cutter. To perform more difficult tasks it is better to pay attention to stationary milling machines.

In contrast to the manual method, products processed by electric machines look much more spectacular. And time is saved significantly. Separately, it should be said about the platform, which is usually made of metal. It can be attached separately to the body with rods. The bottom has a smooth material slide plate to help the tool run smoothly from point to point.

Advice! When choosing a unit, pay attention to how conveniently the buttons on and off the device are arranged, whether they interfere with comfortable work on the machine.

An important parameter is platform stability. It is better if it is made of cast (for expensive models) or stamped (for budget options) material. This will provide a better adhesion to the surface. Submersible models are considered more professional, they will help to create not only recesses, but also grind grooves and holes of the desired shape and depth.

How to choose the power of equipment for a wood router for home workshop

The hand router is specially designed for work in small workshops or on the road. It is difficult to process large batches of lumber on it, such a machine simply cannot withstand the volume of work. Bulky workpieces are easier to process on stationary machines.

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“To create complex wood patterns, you will have to purchase several types of cutters. Some of them can be made by yourself, others can be purchased in specialized stores. "

For home, household use low-power machines are quite suitable. For example, 400 W is sufficient for small jobs and drilling in soft wood. Machines of this power can be used for grooving. The price is not high, however, the set of functions is quite limited.

With such equipment, you can easily work on any type of wood. For everyday needs, this is quite enough. For professional use, it is recommended to choose a machine with a power of at least 1.5 kW. It is not always possible to buy such a milling machine, because the price can reach several tens of thousands of rubles. On such a device it will be possible to process large volumes of wood, as well as plastics, soft alloys, such as aluminum, it will "eat" any type of cutters. Remember that the time it takes to complete the task also depends on the power. The spindle speed is a very important characteristic that affects the price of a wood milling machine; this parameter should be paid attention to when choosing equipment. Processing dry or damp wood of different densities is most effective at certain speeds.

Advice! If you plan to work with large volumes of the same type of material, it makes no sense to purchase a multi-speed unit. For switching and soft start, the mechanism is equipped with a gearbox.

Platform dimensions and distance from spindle axis to worktop determine the dimensions of the workpieces to be processed. Choosing the right spindle for a wood milling machine determines the accuracy and depth of the workpiece, as well as the ability to select the right milling cutter.

Dimensions and weight of the machine - a desktop compact model is suitable for an amateur, which is installed on a workbench, and after use is removed to the pantry. If you have a workshop, it is more expedient to assemble a full-fledged milling machine on the bed with your own hands. If work is planned for construction site, choose a manual router.

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“The top-type handheld electric router can be stationary or submersible. Fixed models are cheaper, but less functional. In such a tool, the cutter cannot move relative to the device body. "

Much more convenient to use is a submersible milling cutter, the drive motor of which is installed on special guides and during processing can move along them along with the working attachment. The design of the submersible milling cutters also has a special spring, which provides the lifting of the working nozzle after the processing is done with it. If in the process of purchasing top-type milling cutters you choose which one is better, then you should definitely pay attention to submersible models that are perfect for both professionals and beginners.

Advice! Consider in your design the possibility of soft start and quick stop modes. In addition, it is very important to provide for the design of the motor so that the motor brushes can be changed without disassembling the housing.

Homemade wood milling machine do it yourself - instructions

The easiest way to make a tool with your own hands at home is either a router from a drill or an electric motor removed from another tool. This process is not so difficult, so every master is able to cope with its implementation. This will require an electric motor, the power of which does not exceed 500 W, and materials at hand. A drill can also be used as a drive. Of course for making lathe some skill is required.

What components and materials are needed in the work

Naturally, the first thing to get hold of is a motor. It can be of different types, collector or asynchronous. More versatile - motors of the first type. Their power is quite enough to create a household router.

Next, we move on to the materials from which we will make the countertop. It could be like ordinary boards and metal carcass welded from old pipes. The main thing is to ensure the stability of the structure. In some cases, it is advisable to "plant" the base of the bed on cement. Take care of the metal base in advance for attaching the mounting plate to the router. It must have high strength, while not being too thick. It is most often made of PCB or thin metal sheet.

Manufacturing the bed

The materials for making the bed are selected depending on the size of the motor, the volume and dimensions of the material that is supposed to be processed. It can be made of wood or metal, prefabricated or cast structure. You can assemble a milling table with your own hands for a woodworking machine from different materials. The main thing is to ensure sufficient rigidity and stability of the structure.

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"The best thing to do is to build a bed with adjustable feet, in which case it can be installed even on uneven floors."

Countertop manufacturing

For processing small-sized wood or plastic, a tabletop made of wooden boards or thick plywood is suitable. Some craftsmen use the surfaces of old countertops from kitchen sets... The protected surface will retain the necessary glide and dampen vibrations.

Examine the surface of the intended countertop carefully. There should be no irregularities and notches on it. In the process of work, it must retain its original shape, otherwise, after several days of work, it will need to be replaced. If this is not done, the parts that you plan to process will not be perfectly evenly fixed on the table, distortions that occur during work can damage the cutters, lead to unnecessary vibration and errors in the processing of parts.

Preparing the site for the mounting plate and making the base

The mounting plate is a rectangle made most often of metal, in the center of which holes for the engine are cut. It can be attached to the countertop from the back side or "hang" over it. At this stage, it is important to understand where and how the engine will be located.

Making a stop and a pressure comb

To fix the workpieces to the bed, special stops and clamping combs must be used. They allow you to fix the product so that it can be approached from any side and processed. For these purposes, special grooves are created on the bed, into which milling clamps are attached.

Ready-made sets of retainers for different types machine tools. The clamps can be different shapes: straight and curved, versatile, forked, movable and not. However, for self-assembly, squares, supports, clamps that are attached to the tabletop or guides are most often used.

Features of connecting the milling machine to the power supply

Milling machines are complex equipment, the connection of which to the power supply is carried out according to a certain scheme.

In industrial workshops, vertical milling machines for wood of high power are installed. Whether it makes sense to pull a separate line for a milling machine in everyday life is a big question. It's another matter if 3 phases have already been brought into the garage. Then, of course, it is easier to take an asynchronous three-phase device with the condition that the supply cable can withstand the load. Smooth start and stop, increased power - such a machine will allow you to work with almost all wood samples and perform any operations.

Moreover, the control mechanism is often equipped with emergency protection and is regulated using a transformer and an additional switch.

In what order are the component parts assembled

It all starts with assembling the base, the machine frame, on which the workbench is attached. The table top is fixed depending on the location of the engine.

Advice! Wood countertops can dry out and crack, which is extremely impractical. If you have to use this material, then it is better to look for ready-made countertops with a special moisture-resistant spraying.

Depending on the position of the motor, the motor mounting plate and stops are fixed.

Additional protective elements

Consider additional structural elements in advance. Where and how will the mechanism for cleaning the cut site from debris and dust be located. What nuances need to be considered:

Possibility of illumination of the working area.
Availability of buttons for turning the machine on and off, as well as the presence of an emergency stop lever.
Dust protection.
Motor availability.
Guide and guard screens.
Places for clamps and clamps (you need to decide before choosing a tabletop).

Do-it-yourself CNC milling machine for wood - general provisions

This type of machine is undoubtedly one of the most ideal for work, however, to manufacture such equipment on your own, certain knowledge and programming skills are required. Basically, you have to answer a few questions:

Can you write (or find a person who will do it) a program that can program the sequential movement of the cutter according to a given algorithm? To do this, you can purchase adapted programs.
Assembly of the workpiece - from "A" to "Z".
Setting up a program in the CNC.
Correct connection of all elements and systems. Including right choice and installation of lead screws together with couplings.

Let's omit the mechanical part, dwelling in more detail on the electronic one. For correct work the CNC machine needs to be prepared the following items control: power supply, controller, driver (provides the cutter stroke). All the "stuffing" is located in a separate block, most often at some distance from the working motor, in order to exclude the malfunction of the microcircuits due to the vibration of the motor.

The entire system is controlled by a special software package. You can use the well-known KCam. It adapts easily to almost any controller.

The program can be "read" by many special applications that will transfer digital data into a visual image, and you will see your part in three dimensions. The program allows you to adjust and program the stroke rate and other technical specifications for a specific task.

How to make a wood router out of a drill

The drill is one of the most common tools that help us out in any situation. A drill based on a drill will help to solve a number of tasks, while the unit can always be disassembled again. Such "homemade" will cost almost nothing. The only thing you will need to decide on the mount and position of the tool in relation to work surface... Consider one of the options for how you can turn a drill into a router, and perform a fairly wide range of tasks. In some ways, such a device can replace home-made lathe-milling machines for wood, and in some ways even "surpass" them.

Illustration	Description of action
	We are looking for an unnecessary handle from a power tool that could be used as a comfortable handle.
	We slightly modernize it with the help of special mounts, we prepare fasteners in advance that will fix the drill in a stable position.
	We fix the door in the holder using special corners.
	We mark the plexiglass. It will serve as a supporting structure.
	We have got such a mounting plate made of plexiglass.
	We install the mini-machine on the supporting structure.
	With the help of clever swivel fasteners, we fix another plate.
	The depth and angle of inclination of the cutter are adjusted using a special movable clamp.

Such a manual router will allow you to make a curved and straight cut, without any difficulties it will drill required holes... A tangible disadvantage is that a manual router made from scrap materials is not durable. In addition, the processing speed of the parts is not very high. The situation can be solved by replacing the engine with a rotary hammer.

How to make a wood cutter with your own hands

Each wood router requires its own set of cutters. Sometimes it is quite difficult to find them. In this case, you can make do-it-yourself cutters. In order to make your own milling tool, the easiest way is to use rebar trimmings. Steel rods are fine too. The only difficulty is uneven surface fittings must be cut down on a lathe. Consider the features of manufacturing technology homemade cutter.

Further, another quarter of the diameter is removed from the already processed workpiece and a smooth transition is turned. Next, the cutter is given a rectangular shape, for which its lower part is cut off. The thickness of that part of the blank, where the working part of the cutter will be, must be at least 2-5 mm, otherwise the cutter may burst. Making a wood milling machine with your own hands is not an easy task, but quite solvable. You can be convinced of this by looking at these wonderful homemade samples of machine tools.

Anyone who works more or less seriously with wood sooner or later comes to the conclusion that it is impossible to get a high-quality product without milling. But for a decent household milling machine for wood processing, it is unlikely that less than 20 thousand rubles will have to be paid. Will these costs pay off and when? Will and to what extent the selected unit will be adapted for the most common milling operations you use? It is extremely difficult to solve such questions speculatively and far from always possible. The way out is to make a wood milling machine with your own hands. This will at least make it possible to understand exactly what this or that machine can do and what you can do on it. Perhaps, the need for a purchase will disappear - a home-made product made for yourself will have to be handled for years. The material of this article is intended to lead the reader to just such a turn of events.

Which one to do?

Dozens of different milling operations and at least a dozen types of machine tools for them are used to process materials. At home, not all of their designs are repeatable by beginner and intermediate craftsmen. 2 and 3 coordinate machines CNC (2D and 3D wood milling machines) are not covered in this article. It is possible to make a 2D or 3D milling cutter on your own (pos. 1 in the figure below), but already having quite a lot of experience working on a simple machine, a significant volume of orders and an urgent need for sharp increase labor productivity. At the same time, you will have to master the programming of microcontrollers, tk. finished samples are designed for a machine of a well-defined design; The costs of stepper motors and precision drive parts will also be significant.

To begin with, at home, you can make a homemade milling machine of any of the following. varieties:

Horizontal (item 2 in the figure).
Vertical (pos. 3).
Copier with pantograph (2D duplikarver, pos. 4).
Volumetric copying machine (3D duplikarver, pos. 5).

Tool…

The choice of a machine of one type or another is determined, of course, by the working operations most used by the master. To concretize their nomenclature, you must first decide which working bodies (cutters) you will most need. Most of them are applicable both horizontally and in vertical machine.

Shell cutters (item 1 in the figure) process preim. straight edges of the boards: grooves and ridges (including shaped ones) are cut out to the full length, they are hammered (shaped chamfer). The spindle assembly of the machine for shell cutters (see below) is structurally the most simple; its details can be turned by a turner of the 3rd category. The required drive power for a working depth of up to 60 mm from 1.5 kW. The quality of the material is almost any, starting from raw directly from under the sawmill from the sawmill. The most suitable for shell cutters is a vertical router for wood, see eg. below video in 4 parts:

Video: homemade wood milling machine with shell cutters

There are many more varieties of cutters with a cylindrical shank (landing, landing), because their functionality wider. But for such a cutter, it will be necessary to grind a spindle nozzle with a Morse taper for a chuck; it is also possible to use ready-made spindle assemblies from a drilling machine.

Face mills, e.g. Forstner's cutter (item 2 in the figure above) is a specialized tool; they choose round holes with a flat bottom in thin boards with decorative coating that cannot be spoiled. Have you ever hung doors on furniture? The holes for their hinges were chosen precisely with a Forstner cutter. The quality of the material is no worse than straight grained wood of the 1st grade chamber drying... The required drive power is from 150 W. They work with end mills only on a vertical machine or, with a certain skill, manually.

Note: it is quite realistic to choose D32 holes for door hinges in furniture chipboard 16 mm thick with a Forstner cutter in a 170 W screwdriver, I did it myself.

End (finger) cutter, pos. 3, can be threaded into both horizontal and vertical spindles. End mills choose blind grooves (not the entire length of the board) and cut out spikes for carpentry spike-groove connections. It is more convenient to work with an end mill on horizontal machine... On the vertical, it is possible to choose long grooves (grooves) of a rectangular profile on the faces of boards and beams. Tapered end mills (key 4) are also a specialized tool for preparing parts for connection in dovetail... Operate with tapered end mills on a vertical machine only. For both, the required drive power for a working depth of up to 80-100 mm is from 1 kW. The quality of the material is from industrial wood of the 2nd grade of air drying (from the timber yard).

End shaped (curly) cutters, pos. 5, also a specialized but highly demanded tool. They are used to mold (including curved edges) and select shaped grooves (decorative grooves) of any configuration in the plank faces. Drive power from 1.2-1.5 kW; material quality requirements are the same as for face mills. For edging, the router bit can be threaded into both horizontal and vertical spindles; to work on faces only in vertical direction.

Roller cutters (rotary cutters, pos. 6) can also select profiled grooves and induce molding on both horizontal and vertical machines, but in fact they are a special tool for copy milling machines. The requirements for the quality of the material are high, as for end mills, but the drive power in the copier can be from 250-300 watts.

And, finally, with a circular cutter (pos. 7) in a vertical milling or drilling machine, large-diameter round holes are cut in almost any not overly thick material (including sheet metal). Drive power requirement per hole D200 in 60 mm oak board approx. 2-2.5 kW.

... and its presentation

Milling can be done in two ways: counter-milling and passing, see fig. below. As for wood, ordinary straight-grained wood (especially - not very High Quality air drying) are milled only along the way, otherwise the cutter may very well split and / or fray the workpiece. But in such a case, with an excessive feed rate, there is a considerable likelihood of the workpiece being skipped by the cutter and damage to the processing profile. Removing dust, sawdust and shavings from the working area (and this is a serious problem) on a vertical milling machine during concurrent milling is difficult, because the dust collector (see below) has to be placed in the field of view in front of the cutter and it obscures working area.

Note: on a horizontal milling machine, there are no problems with the removal of processing waste during passing milling, because dust (sawdust) then fly down, and the dust collector bell can be positioned directly on the machine plate (see item 2 in the figure at the beginning and further).

Counter milling gives the best accuracy and cleanliness, but only on sufficiently high quality and homogeneous materials. From wood - on solid fine-grained chamber-drying wood. The removal of processing waste on a vertical milling machine is facilitated, but it is difficult on a horizontal one - dust and sawdust fly up. The removal of the workpiece is almost incredible, but there is a danger of its being bitten by the cutter. The behavioral profile can often be refined; eaten and broken billet is an unconditional marriage.

Motor

Based on the foregoing, it is optimal to do a do-it-yourself milling machine with a 1.5-2 kW drive. The reason is that motors up to this power are produced incl. asynchronous with a capacitor start for a voltage of 220 V 50 Hz. They can be plugged into a regular household outlet, and switching the direction of rotation is a childish task for an amateur electrician; rotation speed - 700-2850 rpm, which is suitable for milling. It is also possible to use an electric motor of the same type from washing machine; in this case, it becomes possible to switch the rotation speed (there are different windings for this in asynchronous motors of washing machines). A 2 kW motor will provide a processing depth of up to 80-100 mm; if a large one is required, you will have to install a three-phase motor at 380 V 50 Hz from 3 kW in the machine, see eg. video clip:

Video: homemade vertical milling machine for wood

Note: collector motors for 1.5-2 kW 220 V 50/60 Hz (for example, from another washer or vacuum cleaner) are not very suitable for driving a milling machine - due to their excessively soft external characteristics, a cutter with imperfect manual feed of a workpiece can get stuck in a tree, tear and shag it (if damp).

Which is the best wood router

Now we know enough to choose the horizontal or vertical position of the spindle axis of rotation of the machine. Comparative performance characteristics horizontal and vertical milling machines for wood are summarized in the table:

Horizontal or vertical?

From the data table. it follows that it makes sense to do a horizontal wood router on your own if you are faced with the need for massive, simple processing of lumber from low-quality raw materials. Not necessarily for sale; perhaps for cladding with wooden siding or clapboard of your house. The savings will be such that it is just right to buy a branded router, but a normal developer does not have extra money. Or, let's say, it's still for sale, if you are an individual entrepreneur with a sawmill and a circular saw. Compare market prices for unedged and tongue-and-groove boards, calculate the profitability - is the game worth the candle?

Details for the most complex module of a horizontal router for wood - the spindle assembly - will be made by any skilled turner, similar to the same circular saw assembly; structurally they are the same (see drawings in fig; sleeve bearings are highlighted in red).

The bollard, dust collector and base plate are the same as for the vertical machine (see below). The stove is even simpler - there is no need for a cut-out for the motor suspension with vibration damping. The natural vibration of a horizontal router is an order of magnitude less than that of a vertical one. The transmission from the motor to the spindle also reduces them, and pulleys or sprockets for it will be found in their own trash or at the iron bazaar. Cash can also be converted into a decent horizontal milling machine for wood circular saw, see eg. video:

Video: milling machine from circular / planing machine

Making vertical

The vertical wood milling machine has a lot of great functionality and provides a better quality of material processing than the horizontal one. It is the vertical milling cutters that are built most of all by amateur homemade people. However, the problem of dealing with vibration in a vertical milling machine is much more acute. If in a horizontal milling cutter, vibrations through the base of the spindle unit are given predominantly. down and are effectively damped, re-reflected in the thickness of the material, then in a vertical machine, elastic waves in the machine plate propagate mainly to the sides. In this case, their inerference and the appearance of standing waves with antinodes (foci) of such magnitude that the workpiece is thrown away from the cutter is possible. Therefore, one of the main tasks of designing a homemade vertical mill is to suppress machine vibration.

Structural scheme

The least susceptible to vibration are vertical milling machines with a bottom drive of a free (fixed only from the bottom) milling cutter. The working body is mounted directly on the motor shaft. The entire drive is designed as vibration-resistant as possible. Under the influence of the beating of the cutter on irregularities in the workpiece, the drive staggers, swaying. In this case, a noticeable transverse (vertical) component appears in the elastic waves, which is effectively absorbed by the bed, and a heavy motor with a massive rapidly rotating rotor plays the role of an inertial absorber of mechanical vibrations.

The device of industrial and home-made home vertical milling machines for wood is shown in Fig.:

Their main difference is in the folding (lifting) stop 7. Since drives of 5 kW or more are not used in amateur designs with high-performance milling cutters, the swing stop is replaced by a lifting stop, which prevents the workpiece from being pushed upward from the cutter. Also, for an amateur machine, a custom-made nozzle adapter with a Morse taper on the motor shaft is the same as for a homemade drilling machine. A standard chuck for a cylindrical shank is mounted on the cone. In this design, it is also possible to use shell cutters: adapters to them with a cylindrical shank are on sale or are included in the set of cutters. The most critical structural units of such a machine are:

Base plate - the main damper of longitudinal (horizontal) waves of elasticity in the machine;
Vibration damping drive board;
Comb stops (stop) - dampen vertical vibrations of the workpiece;
Static side stop - provides correct presentation workpieces, and in a home-made machine, some adjustment of the cutter output (horizontal processing depth);
Dust collector - removes processing waste into a dust collector.

The latter is absolutely necessary when milling, because the cutter gives several times more wood dust, sawdust and shavings than is formed during sawing. The base plate is most often performed in conjunction with the vibration damping suspension of the drive. The curbstone (frame) can be any, so long as the plate with the rest of the parts does not crash down.

Drive plate and suspension

The window (opening) for suspending the drive from the machine plate is most often cut out square (see the figure on the right), so it's easier at home. But the machine in operation will shake much less if the window for the drive is made round. In any case, the motor should not directly touch the plate (again see the figure on the right), otherwise, instead of damping the vibrations, they will be amplified.

The best materials for the plate and the drive board are fiber-laminated plastics: textolite, fiberglass with a thickness of 12-15 mm; the thicker the better. Hardboard and other massive plastics are less suitable: they dampen vibrations well, but over time, from heating by the motor, they warp and the machine loses its accuracy. Getinaks, etc. thermosetting laminates are unsuitable: they very soon delaminate from vibrations.

However, making the entire plate solid is both impossible and impractical: it is difficult, expensive, the vibrations of the drive itself will be freely transmitted to the plate. Only the motor board needs to be made of plastic, and the plate is made of plywood impregnated with a vibration-absorbing compound and re-glued, and low-grade construction and packaging will do. It is necessary to re-glue the board from at least 5 sheets so that the fibers of the outer layers of the adjacent ones are oriented mutually perpendicular.

Cutting scheme standard sheet plywood 1550x1550x4 mm on sheets for the base plate of a milling machine for wood is given on the left in Fig. Sheets for the horizontal router plate are cut out without windows for the motor, but with a dust collector socket (see above and below). Slab size up to 750x500 mm. A flash of 50 mm along the contour of the sheet is needed to cut off low-quality material at the edges.

At the beginning, 2-3 times on each side, the sheet is abundantly impregnated with construction eco-soil (water-polymer emulsion), it perfectly dampens vibrations. The interval between impregnations is at least 3.5 hours. Then the sheet is cut out, spread on the floor plastic film(not PVC, will stick!). Sheet No. 1 is placed on the film and a thin even layer of mounting (reinforced) PVA is applied with a brush (better - with a "shaggy" paint roller); the same layer - on the adjacent side of sheet No. 2. The brush (roller and its tray), immediately after applying the glue, is thrown into a bucket of water, and at the end of all gluing, washed in water.

Before folding, the sheets are kept for 15-20 minutes (or according to the instructions on the glue package), folded and straightened, without separating, so that the edges of the drive window converge exactly. Then, sheets 3, 4 and 5 are glued in the same way. The whole package is covered with a film and loaded over the entire area with a dispersed load from 30-40 kg more books or a binder of magazines). Dry for at least 3 days at room temperature: mounting PVA is strong, its adhesive layer is knitted and perfectly absorbs vibrations, but dries to full strength for a long time.

The design of the motor suspension is shown in the section on the right in Fig. Leave a gap of 0.5-1 mm between the motor board and the machine plate. There is no need to clean sawdust out of it: they will be an additional side vibration-damping pillow. It is advisable to find a motor with mounting feet protruding beyond the size of the body: then it will be possible to install (not promptly) the removal of the cutter up. To install the cutter in height, the mounting screws of the motor are taken long, and the stem itself is set, putting on them, between the rubber cushion of the suspension and the motor housing, steel washers alternately with gaskets from the same chamber truck tires.

The slab with a suspension is checked for the quality of workmanship with a pencil. If you put it upright 5 cm from the edge of the gimbal board, then when the engine is running at idle speed, the pencil should not fall.

Stop and dust collector

For a drawing of a simple but good static side stop with a dust collector flare, see next. rice. Material - re-glued plywood from the same sheet. Holes for comb and lifting stops are drilled in 3-5 pieces: the first 50 mm from the edges of the cutout for the cutter (rectangular); the rest after 25-30 mm. The position of the stops is selected depending on the size of the workpiece and the quality of its material. The lateral extension of the cutter within a small range is regulated by turning the stop and securing it with a clamp.

Dust collector

Since there is no industrial pneumatic system with air sampling at home, the milling dust has to be sucked off with a household vacuum cleaner. If you connect it directly to the dust collector nozzle, the required expensive household appliance will soon fail. An expensive, well-cleaning vacuum cleaner with a hydro-catcher, most likely immediately. So, in addition to a dust collector, a dust collector is also needed for a homemade wood router, through which the vacuum cleaner is connected.

The device of the dust collector for the milling machine is shown in Fig. on right. Capacity - round in plan from 10-15 liters (preferably from 20 liters). The ideal option is a household bucket with a tight lid set on a seal and fitted with collar latches (both are quite doable with your own hands).

Inlet connection - approx. 20 mm (inside). Its end is beveled 45 degrees and turned 20-30 degrees outward; installed 15-20 mm from the side of the vessel (counting from the outer edge of the pipe). Extraction connection wider, approx. 30 mm inside; is installed exactly along the vertical axis of the container. Its selective end is narrowed to 15-20 mm (taper is not critical). Everything together works like a cyclone, and the air in the vacuum cleaner is clean enough so as not to spoil the device.

Note: additional advantage dust collector - dust from it is an excellent filler for high-quality wood putty. For her, the dust is kneaded on PVA (3-4): 1 by volume.

Comb

A drawing of the comb stop of a milling machine for wood is given on the next page. rice. Material - solid resilient fine-grained wood (oak, beech, walnut) without defects - streaks, rot, cross-layer, knots - 20 mm thick. The comb needs a pair, right and left, so that the workpiece can be fed from either side.

The first tooth of the comb along the workpiece (note!) Is shortened by 3 mm. It does not directly contact the workpiece, but serves as a rebound spring for the entire ridge. Without it, the comb can jam on the workpiece and break.

Fastening of the dies to the side stop - with a bolt with a wing nut through a longitudinal groove (slotted hole in the figure); fixing with a non-working self-tapping screw to the same stop through hole D7. The comb is placed in the working position so that it touches the workpiece with all teeth, except for the first one, and is fixed with a lamb.

Making a copy router

Copying wood by milling a workpiece is a very delicate matter. The principle of 2- and 3-coordinate (2D and 3D) copying is the same: with a copier probe, they trace the contour of a flat sample (template) or lead it along the surface of a volumetric one. The cutter of the milling head follows exactly the movement of the probe, removing excess wood from the workpiece. You need to drive the probe carefully and slowly, sensitively feeling the resistance of the material: the workpiece is not out of thin air. It is better to start mastering copying from a tree with 2D. In this way, it is already possible to make good money: flat decorative details with a vertical router carpets are in good demand, but they are made quite quickly. But for both 2D and 3D copying, you need a special milling head.

Head

Copy milling heads are available separately but are expensive. You can replace the branded head with a drill without a percussion mechanism: "slotting" drills are unsuitable for copying due to design features from the spindle assembly. Any drill or screwdriver will work for a start, but it is better to purchase a tool of increased accuracy. Such a drill is more expensive than a conventional one, but much cheaper than a milling head, and it is not inferior in quality of work. It is easy to recognize an accurate drill by its appearance: on the neck of its body there is a metal collar for installation in the drill bed under the drill.

2D

For 2D copying on wood, machines with a pantograph, desktop and mounted are used. It is easier to make a desktop pantograph machine with your own hands, but it will be difficult to achieve copy accuracy better than 1 mm. On a machine with a mounted pantograph, you can literally draw and leave autographs on the workpiece.

The device of 2D copy-milling machines for wood is shown in Fig: on the left of the desktop; on the right with a mounted pantograph. The latter is essentially an engraving machine. The stylus is needle-shaped here and there with a radius of curvature of the end of approx. 0.5 mm (in engraving up to 0.1 mm or less). Conical roller cutter; by installing it at a different offset in the head chuck, the width and depth of the selected groove are adjusted.

Do you need a scale?

Drawing and drawing pantographs are made scalable (see fig.). Wood copying is usually carried out on a 1: 1 scale. The fact is that due to the resistance of the material, the error in copying on wood increases greatly due to backlash in the hinges; professional engraving machine is a complex precision expensive unit. But if the copy pantograph is set to a scale of 1: 1, there is interesting phenomenon: the beats in the hinges seem to compensate for each other, and the total error due to backlash increases insignificantly.

3D

3-axis milling and copying machines (duplikarvers) quite actively diverge in the tool market despite high prices. On a duplikarver, you can make copies of a three-dimensional model (not necessarily a wooden one; for example, a stucco one), which, in the opinion of the average consumer, are not inferior to the original in terms of artistic merit.

The device of a factory-made duplikarver is shown on the left in fig. Its copier (milling cutter + probe) has 4 degrees of freedom: swing up and down, back and forth, rotate in a vertical plane and move left and right. One could do without an "extra" degree of freedom in comparison with the number of geometric dimensions of the copied figure if the movements of the copier along all three axes were rectilinear (as in CNC machines), but this is technically difficult and expensive. The same degrees of freedom can be realized in a different kinematic scheme used in most homemade duplicarvers (center in the figure).

Experienced copiers work with a cylindrical stylus and cutter. In this case, the template is encircled by the very edge of the probe (the annular edge of its lower end); working turns out and acc. cutter face. The sample and the workpiece are fixed in exactly the same position on exactly the same supports. In the process of work, they have to be laid on their side and turned upside down, each time fixing the stands in a precisely defined position relative to each other. Thus, it is indeed possible to accurately copy the figure of complexity as on the left in fig.

It is better for novice copiers to learn the case from less complex samples, using a spherical stylus and a cutter, on the right in Fig. The probe needs to be sharpened to order. "Micron" accuracy is not required; instead of a sphere, a drop can hang at the end of the probe. But the tip of the probe must be sanded at home with fine sandpaper and polished with felt or leather with alcohol and GOI paste. The cutter diameter is taken equal to the diameter of the stylus tip, otherwise the contours on the left and right (top and bottom) will not converge. The handle of the probe is also better chiseled from wood, pear-shaped; With a probe made of a screwdriver with a ribbed plastic handle, the "kickback" of the workpiece material is felt much worse.

Errors in design

There are three main mistakes in the construction of homemade duplicarvers. The first is insufficient balancing of the mechanism. The copier within the working area should move easily and freeze from the position in which it was left. The second is a copier on a bar instead of a U-shaped frame, pos. And in fig. The torsional rigidity of the rod is an order of magnitude (s) less than that of the frame; acc. the copying error also grows. The third is the "hanging" horizontal rod of the copier, pos. B; here already the insufficient bending stiffness of the free at one end of the rod affects.

1 assessments, average: 5,00 out of 5)

For the convenience of working with the milling cutter, the craftsmen install it permanently, and the workpiece is moved. When working this way, it comes not about hand milling cutter, but the so-called "milling table". In this article we will try to explain how to make a do-it-yourself wood milling machine.

Which milling cutter to choose

There are many types of routers. Before choosing it, you need to consider for what purposes you will need it. More complex workpieces will require a more powerful and resourceful router. Experts recommend choosing a router with manual adjustment and automatic spindle stabilization.

Milling cutters with soft start and quick stop systems are very convenient. And if the tool allows you to replace the motor brushes without opening the case, then there will be no price at all for it. This is a really significant plus.

In many operating instructions, milling machine manufacturers advise against using it upside down. Basically, these restrictions are not justified and can be ignored.

Advice: choose a router with a power of at least 2 kilowatts to work confidently with any tree. It should also have speed control, as a rule, it is on all models. As for whether it is worth buying brands such as Bosch or Makita, my opinion is that if you do it professionally and every day it is worth it, if for yourself then an inexpensive Chinese is enough.

DIY milling table video

Milling table bed

An important part of the tool is a special frame (bed). This is a frame on supports, on top of which there is a tabletop. The bed can be made of any material: metal, wood, chipboard, etc.

The main thing is that it is tough and stable. The size does not really matter either. It all depends on what size parts you will be working with.

To provide comfortable work machine operator, lower part the bed must be deepened.

Thanks to this, the operator does not cling to the structure with his feet during operation. We advise you to make a bed with adjustable feet, which will allow you to work on any uneven floor.

A do-it-yourself wood milling machine is notable for a huge selection of creation options. You can create it completely for yourself.

Table top

Nothing complicated here. One of the options is the usual kitchen countertop covered with special plastic. The workpiece will glide perfectly on the plastic, and the board will damp vibrations well.

Mounting plate of the router on the table

High strength plate with low thickness. As a rule, it is made of metal or PCB (the latter option is easier to use).

A rectangular plate, in the center of which a hole is made. The router is then attached to the mounting plate. In order to fix the tool with the plate to the table, four holes need to be drilled at the corners of the plate.

The simplest do-it-yourself milling table, drawings

So we got to the essence of this article. So how do you assemble a wood milling machine with your own hands? First, a tabletop is temporarily attached to the finished frame (bed). Then a mounting plate is placed on the countertop and its position is marked. Further, using a router, a seat for the plate is selected on the tabletop.

It must be installed perfectly with the top surface of the worktop. Finally, you need to mill the hole in the shape of the router base and put it all together. Of course, you will have to tinker with some points, but the main thing is to follow all the instructions.

Upper clamp

For more comfortable work, the table can be equipped with an upper clamp. A regular ball bearing will do.

It will allow you to firmly fix the workpiece. This will allow you to increase the quality and speed of work, as well as save your nerves and efforts.

Safety

It is necessary to focus on the most important thing - safety. Firstly, it is recommended to install a protective shield for the cutter. Secondly, equip the tool with an emergency stop button. The button should be in an easily accessible place for you, but at the same time, it should not interfere with your work. Thirdly, the working area can be additionally illuminated.

All these points will only add comfort to your work, because you cannot save on safety. Be healthy.

The formation of holes or grooves of a special shape on the surface of the steel workpiece is carried out using a milling machine. This type of equipment is conditionally divided into professional and amateur for home use. In the latter case, it is possible to make a do-it-yourself milling machine for metal processing.

The choice of manufacturing scheme

First you need to decide on the type of operations to be performed. Additionally, the maximum size of workpieces, their weight and configuration are taken into account. For home use it is recommended to do. It will be mounted on a homemade or factory base.

Processing occurs due to the displacement of the working head relative to the workpiece. Optimal layout- changing the height and tilt of the milling machine and moving the desktop along the X and Y axes.

To do this, you need the following components:

Stanina. It is designed for the installation of equipment and the stability of the machine.
Electric milling head. This should be a factory model with a Morse taper.
Electric motor for driving the head. The optimal power is up to 500 watts.
Transmission. For home use, you can apply a belt circuit.
Control unit - switch and fuses.

Making a machine entirely from scrap materials is laborious and time-consuming. Factory supplied parts can be used to ensure good performance and reliability of the equipment.

Homemade router: option number 1

In fact, this model is a combination of a lathe and a drilling machine. From the first, the bed will be used. Installed on the guides coordinate table, which will move along one axis. In place of the headstock, a support column is mounted to install the milling head.

The motor is mounted separately so that vibration does not affect the accuracy of the operation. A tensioner is required at the top of the milling head. It adjusts the belt drive.

Peculiarities self-made milling machine:

the displacement of the working head in the vertical plane occurs with the help of a worm gear;
plate for installing workpieces with fastening grooves;
installation lighting fixture to improve the accuracy of the work performed.

With this milling machine, you can do basic operations for the processing of metal workpieces. Lack of design - lack of swivel mechanism on the working head.

DIY metal milling cutter: option number 2

If it is necessary to form holes or grooves of small depth, it is recommended to use a different manufacturing scheme. Structurally, the machine will be similar to an engraving one. The difference is the increased power of the milling head.

The structure will consist of a fixed frame that serves as a desktop. A movable carriage is installed on the side guides. It is recommended to use a factory cutter. At the place of its installation, it is necessary to provide a lifting / lowering mechanism.

The specifics of self-manufacturing:

the size and design of the work table and carriage depend on the maximum dimensions of the workpiece;
the base for the machine is best purchased from the factory;
use stepper motors;
the presence of a CNC is required to automate the work.

With the help of this milling machine, you can perform artistic metal processing, make grooves and holes with complex shapes. The disadvantage is the maximum working depth - up to 1.2 mm.

Professional equipment for milling: option no. 3

If you need to perform complex milling operations with maximum accuracy, you need to purchase a factory bed. Any router can be installed on it and the electric motor can be adapted for connection. This method is the most costly, but also reliable.

The advantages of the scheme:

the presence of coarse and fine feed mechanisms;
table with T-shaped grooves for fixing the workpiece;
the ability to rotate the working head by 90 ° with subsequent fixation;
minimum assembly time of the machine.

The average cost of the bed is 12,000 rubles. These costs are offset high precision and the ability to adapt existing milling equipment to make a homemade model.

When choosing a factory bed, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the working table, maximum distance from the Morse cone to its surface. The presence of dimensional scales will allow you to perform operations with maximum accuracy.

Reading time ≈ 9 minutes

Wood is considered the most practical material for creating various objects, buildings and tools. These can be children's toys, furniture, residential buildings, household items and aggregates. Wood is a natural and environmentally friendly material, for this reason, many craftsmen prefer it when making homemade designs... Not only amateurs, but also professionals dream of having a wood milling machine, made by hand for their home workshop.

Setting up a home workshop

In a personal workshop for the processing of wood products, various machines and structures can be used, there are both universal devices and installations of narrow specialization. Working with wood at home has its own characteristics and is very different from the functioning of a wood processing plant.

Arrangement of a workshop for woodworking

What devices can be found in the home workshop:

Well-equipped home workshop allows you to perform woodwork of any complexity. Homemade equipment is in no way inferior to the factory, if drawings with exact dimensions were used in the manufacture and the correct technology of work was observed, as shown in the video.

Features of milling equipment

Milling is the processing of wood due to the rotation of the cutters of a special device, in which part of the shavings is separated. The plane to be machined can be either profiled or completely smooth. A do-it-yourself wood milling machine has the following set of elements:

The standard router is cylindrical and metal cutting tool, the entire body is provided with cutting edges. Before making an ordinary stationary machine at home, you should know what constituent parts of the device it should have:

Types of machines:

All routers have important technical characteristics influencing the purpose and nature of the use of the machine: rotation speed, power of the engine or drive mechanism, working surface area, the presence of a dust suction, dimensions of the entire structure and its weight.

Homemade CNC machine

To assemble a CNC milling machine, you need to draw detailed drawing with sizes and purchase all necessary tools.

The CNC router is assembled and ready to go. Below are some illustrations from the hardware assembly instructions.

Intermediate assembly stage

Let's get started:

We do not need a ready-made kit to make a CNC milling unit, so you should pay attention to detailed diagram machine tool.
The basis will be a machine with a drill, the head of which will be replaced with a milling head. We will also need parts of the old printer, namely the carriages. They will provide movement of the mechanism in different planes. An electric motor will be used as a stepper motor with sufficient power.
The mechanism of the future milling cutter should be created strictly according to the drawings.
For the manufacture of supporting structure we fix a beam with a rectangular section to the guides. We connect the parts with bolts.
Welding parts to each other is not worth it, since as a result of vibration loads, welded joints deform over time and change the overall geometry of the structure. The assembly of a do-it-yourself CNC milling machine for wood according to dimensional drawings is shown in the video at the end.
To organize the vertical movement of the tool along the axis, we need an aluminum plate. The dimensions must match the dimensions of the milling unit.
We begin the assembly of the constituent elements with the installation of two stepper electric motors for the transmission, we mount them behind the axis on the main body of the machine. Each of the motors will move the head in a specific direction: vertically and horizontally.
We need three stepper motors with five wires, which can be borrowed from an old dot matrix printer. They are able to provide movement of the mechanism in three different planes. To design the drive, we use studs and nuts pre-selected according to the drawings with dimensions. The shaft is secured to the engine with a rubber winding from electrical cable nutrition. A nylon sleeve with a screw will also serve for fixing; we use a drill with a file in the manufacture.
We proceed to the electrical equipment of the machine. The filling will be a well-written software with drivers. The connection to the unit is made through stepper motors through the LPT port. Connection diagrams are shown in the figures.
After connecting all devices of the numeric system program control load software and drivers, run the machine in trial mode and monitor its work. If any errors or deficiencies are noticed, they should be eliminated immediately. The manufacture of a CNC milling machine is shown in a thematic training video with step-by-step instructions and explanations on the principles of equipment operation.

Drill machine

The technology for assembling a machine from a drill for a home workshop is considered the simplest and most understandable. However, it should be remembered that the drill chuck has a rotation speed of up to 3000 rpm, which slightly limits the use of the milling apparatus.

To make equipment at home, we need:

Algorithm for assembling components:

When it comes to setting up your own workshop, you want to do everything on the highest level... Making machines at home is not difficult, the main thing is to draw up dimensional drawings in advance and prepare all the necessary tools. Video tutorials from professional craftsmen and photo instructions will definitely help you in your work.