How to choose the optimal scheme for watering indoor plants? What is drainage? Less moisture required.

It is well known that nothing grows by itself. cultivated plants care is required, one of the most important measures of which is their moisture supply. Sufficient water is one of the basic requirements of all plants, and this is especially important in the summer. Water dissolves nutrients and trace elements contained in the soil, and makes them available to plant roots in the form of a soil solution. It is part of plant tissues, many crops are 95-97% water. Prolonged lack of moisture causes growth suppression, provokes the occurrence of diseases and often leads to the death of the plant. Moisture is especially necessary for plants during periods of the most active development of plants: during the period of initial growth, flowering and fruit formation. If at this time the plant experiences a lack of moisture, then the yield is significantly reduced, and for perennial crops also the next year, because with a lack of water, flower buds are poorly laid, which ensure fruiting next year. Therefore, the lack of natural moisture should be replenished by regular watering, which is a necessary measure for the care of any kind of crop.

There are several long-established watering rules that gardeners try to strictly observe. But is it really the way these rules claim? In particular, it is claimed that

1) watering should be done not very often, but plentifully. Watering a little every day does not make sense, since the water remains in the surface layer of the soil, and the roots of the plants cannot use it. In addition, water quickly evaporates from the surface, and plants lose it. When watering, the soil should be saturated with moisture 20-25 cm deep so that water saturation occurs at the level of deep root layers. In this case, even with a dry soil surface, the roots of the plants will be in a moist soil environment and will not suffer from a temporary lack of moisture. However, a number of flower and ornamental crops root system It is located shallowly, in the upper layer of the soil, and superficial drying is very dangerous for such plants, since they are not able to take advantage of the moisture from the deep layers. Therefore, the rate and frequency of watering depends on the type of crop and the depth of the plant's root system.

2) crops should be watered under the root so that the water directly feeds the root area of ​​the plant and does not damage its foliage and shoots, since many crops are extremely sensitive to dampness, which provokes the emergence and development fungal diseases. Indeed, there is whole line plants that suffer from watering on the leaves: for example, petunia or tomatoes. Therefore, we can agree with this statement, but with a caveat: there are also moisture-loving plants, which, on the contrary, require high humidity of both soil and air, and, therefore, they simply need watering over the leaves.

3) the most favorable moment for watering is early morning, when the earth has cooled down during the night and moistened with dew, and the air temperature is not high. Evening hours are also suitable for watering, although the heated earth and hot air cause unwanted evaporation of moisture. In no case should watering be done in the sun, especially on hot days, since such watering is not only useless, but can also harm plants. This is due to the fact that the resulting contrast between the temperature of the water and the foliage and root system heated in the sun causes a shock in the plant, which can cause its development to be inhibited. In addition, water droplets on the foliage and stems of plants in the sun act like lenses, which can cause burns of plant tissues, damage and drying of leaf blades.

Now let's look at it from the other side. Water is necessary component for the implementation of all physiological processes occurring in the plant: photosynthesis, movement organic compounds, absorption of minerals in the form of soil solutions, and water regulates the temperature of plants by evaporation from the surface of the leaves.

Therefore, the plant needs water most of all during the day, when the sun shines brightly and photosynthesis is most intensive. Studies have been conducted for a long time and it has been proven that watering during the daytime contributes to better plant growth and increased yields. But gardeners have no time to delve into the scientific literature and check the results obtained by scientists. Almost all popular publications recommend methods developed in the post-war period, ignoring the results obtained over the past 3-4 decades.

If we water or even spray the plantings during the day, then by doing this we save the plants from losing turgor and overheating caused by a lack of moisture, we allow the plant to make the most productive use of sunlight (with enough water, photosynthesis in the daytime proceeds very intensively). In this case, the leaves synthesize a large amount of organic substances necessary for plant growth and crop formation, respectively, the size and taste of fruits and vegetables and their quantity per plant increase significantly.

Certainly, one should take into account individual characteristics plants (as mentioned above), and some of them should be watered under the root, avoiding water on the leaves. But depriving plants of moisture at the most productive time of the day is simply stupid.

Of course, if you water "over the leaves", then it is recommended to do this no later than 16-17 hours, so that the plants dry out before the evening and the development of diseases is not provoked.

In addition, when watering plants, there are many factors to consider. The frequency of watering depends on the structure of the soil, on its ability to retain moisture, on weather conditions and on the requirements of individual crops for the amount of moisture received, which can vary greatly. Any kind of crop should be watered gradually, in several stages, if possible several times returning to an already watered place. This is necessary so that moisture can be completely absorbed into the ground, soften it and make it receptive to receiving a new portion of water. It is important not to miss the moment when watering should be done. Not always a dry soil surface signals the need for watering, since the land in the root habitat may be damp and do not require additional moisture.

It is very important not only to supply the soil with moisture, but also to help retain it. The most proven ways to retain moisture in the soil are mulching and loosening the soil after watering. Mulching layer of organic materials retains soil moisture, significantly reduces its evaporation from the soil surface and for a long time keeps the earth in a loose, moist state. Loosening also significantly reduces the evaporation of soil moisture, as it destroys the thin capillaries through which water from the lower layers rises to the soil surface and then evaporates. If the soil is loosened after watering, the connection between the lower layers and the surface will be destroyed, and moisture will remain in the thickness of the soil until the capillary tubes are restored. Thus, loosening not only enriches the soil with oxygen, facilitating its access, but also helps to maintain a fairly stable soil moisture.

In conclusion, I want to say that one should not blindly trust the prevailing stereotypes. It is necessary to follow new scientific and technical developments and put them into practice, making life easier not only for plants, but also for yourself. As an example, I can cite such a development as drip irrigation, which allows you to maintain the moisture content of the root layer of the soil during the growing season at an optimal level without its strong fluctuations characteristic of all other irrigation methods. In addition, this irrigation method significantly reduces water consumption and has a number of advantages over other irrigation methods.

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Photo: Lada Anoshina, Maxim Minin, Rita Brilliantova

Watering indoor plants must be carried out according to certain standards, which are individual for each culture. Proper watering indoor flowers provides them fast growth and rich blooms. This material provides the basic rules for watering plants that should be followed when doing home care.

How often should flowers be watered

How often do you need to water the flowers so that they are able to ensure the active growth of the root system and deciduous mass? Plants will suffer if the roots get too little water. On the other hand, overwatering is the main cause of houseplant death.

Unfortunately, there is no simple answer to the question of how often to water flowers, but there are a number of guidelines. Never guess, just find your plant's watering requirements. Unfortunately, the correct interval between waterings is not so easy to determine - it can vary from one day to several months. The frequency of watering needed depends on the plant, pot size, compost type, season, indoor conditions, etc. A once-a-week watering routine may be satisfactory for a limited range of ornamental plants, but even then you will need to extend this interval to winter period. The best way is to learn how the plant lets you know when it needs watering.

Necessary equipment for determination:

Forefinger. The index finger is the most useful tool for determining the need for watering flower pots.

Soil moisture indicator. The soil moisture indicator is especially useful for determining when large containers need watering. Alternatively, you can make a probe probe.

How to water flowers correctly?

Before watering the flowers, it is necessary to determine the degree of soil moisture and prepare the water. There are many tips on how to properly water flowers, but there is no universal recipe for this.

Plant with dry wintering. Desert cacti and succulents require moderate watering during their active growing season from spring to fall. In winter, the compost should dry out almost completely.

The first essential step. Your new plant may suffer or die if you do not follow this a simple task, which is rarely mentioned in books or articles. Look at the pot - it is likely that the compost is at or above the rim of the pot. This makes proper watering very difficult. So your first job is to create enough space for watering. Remove excess compost to create a gap between the rim of the pot and the surface of the compost - about 1cm in a small pot and 2-3cm in a large pot.

When should you water houseplants?

Before watering home flowers, you need to stock up on suitable tools.

Watering from a watering can is carried out in the morning, but do not water if bright sunlight falls directly on the pot. The pot should be placed in a tray or in a waterproof planter. Pour water slowly using a watering can with a long spout. Place the end of the spout under the leaves and close to the edge - let the water seep down. Check it out in about 10 minutes. Water again if the water has not gone all the way. Drain any remaining water from the drip tray or planter after about 30 minutes.

When to water? Check the pots every few days during the summer and weekly during the winter. Measuring water loss by lifting the pot is useful but requires some skill. Raise the pot immediately after watering - remember the weight. Raise the pot again when the water requirement has been set in a different way - again try to remember the weight. Use the difference between these two weights when you lift the pot in the future to see if the plant needs watering. For some people this is easy and for others it is impossible.

The best method is to touch the surface index finger. If the compost is dry and crumbly, then the plant that requires constant moisture in the compost is time to water.

Insert your finger the full length of your nail into the compost close to the edge of the pot. If the finger remains dry, then a plant that requires moderate watering is time to water.

Plants in large pots are a particular problem - the top few centimeters of compost may be dry, but the compost at the bottom may be waterlogged. In this situation the best way check the need for watering is a moisture meter.

immersion method. A useful method for plants with hairy leaves, cyclamen and other varieties that do not like water on their leaves. It is also used if the compost dries out more than usual. Place the pot in a deep bowl and pour in about one to three-quarters of the pot's height of water. Leave it until the surface of the compost is wet. Remove the pot and let the water drain.

Watering problems: water does not absorb

Cause: the surface is caked and water is not absorbed.

Problem fix: Pierce the surface with a fork or mini spatula. After that, submerge the pot to the level of the compost in a bucket or tub of water.

Water flows down without wetting the compost

Cause: The compost is too dry and has moved away from the walls of the pot.

Correction: Submerge the pot to the compost level in a bucket or tub of water. Now the water does not flow down and soak the compost.

Watering house plants

Watering domestic plants should be carried out taking into account their group affiliation.

Plants that require moderate watering. Most of the ornamental houseplants belong to this group. The standard recommendation is to water thoroughly and frequently from spring and fall, and water sparingly in winter, allowing the top 1cm layer of compost to dry out each time between waterings. This drying of the surface between waterings is especially important during the dormant period from late autumn to mid-spring.

Plants that require constant compost moisture. This group includes the majority flowering plants. The compost is kept constantly moist, but not wet. The standard recommendation is to water thoroughly every time the surface becomes dry, but still not so often as to keep the compost constantly saturated with water.

Plants requiring wet compost. Very few plants belong to this group. Water generously and often, just enough to keep the compost wet and not just damp. Examples are cyperus.

Correctly assessing the plant's need for water is a guarantee good growth and flowering. Both excess moisture and deficiency lead first to damage to the root system, and later to the weakening of the entire plant and its death.

Water is necessary for all physiological processes: photosynthesis, the movement of organic compounds formed as a result of photosynthesis, as well as for the absorption of minerals in the form of soil solutions. Water also regulates the temperature of plants by evaporation.

Plants absorb water and mineral nutrient salts dissolved in it from the soil by root hairs, which are found only on young roots.
The need for water depends on many reasons: on the environmental conditions of existence at home, the time of year, the temperature and illumination of the room. The size of the pot in which the plant is located and the quality of the substrate also matter. V natural conditions the need for water different types and groups is very specific. For example, in tropical rainforests, many terrestrial herbaceous plants growing in shade under conditions high humidity air, have thin delicate leaves (arrowroot, calathea, begonias, selaginella, ferns) and need more moisture than the epiphytes of the same forests living on the trunks and in the crowns of trees. These latter have succulent, fleshy leaves, tubers or funnel-shaped rosettes of leaves that store water (orchids, some rentals, peperomia, columna, bromeliads). It affects the attitude to water and the seasonality of the climatic conditions of the habitat.

How do you water indoor plants? The main rule: water only when the soil in the pot dries out. Constant excess moisture is harmful - it leads to disruption of normal air exchange in the soil. The root system needs a constant supply of oxygen. With its lack and with an excess of moisture, the roots gradually die off, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. This means that the plant is "flooded". It is necessary to reduce watering, and in some cases, in order to save the plant, you need to cut it off and try to root the cuttings from it, after holding them in water. With strict observance of the main rule, it should be borne in mind that watering plants different groups and species has its own characteristics.

Mandatory watering. Plants are watered immediately after the earthen clod dries. Such watering is required by most tropical plants with thin delicate leaves (for example, maidenhair, begonia, fittonia), as well as some plants with leathery leaves (for example, lemon, ficus, gardenia, ivy, coffee). Both of them suffer greatly from overdrying: the leaves turn yellow and crumble, or wither and fall, not restoring their former position. All plants need abundant watering during the flowering and growth period: even with a slight dryness, young shoots, buds and flowers may suffer.

Moderate watering. Plants are not watered immediately after the earthen coma dries out, but after a day or two, that is, they are slightly dried. This is how plants with fleshy or heavily pubescent stems and leaves (peperomia, columna, saintpaulia), with thick roots and rhizomes (palms, dracaena, cordilins, aspidistra, aroid), as well as with water-bearing tubers on the roots (asparagus, chlorophytum, arrowroot) and bulbous (zephyranthes, wallot, eucharis). For some species, light drying is a prerequisite during the dormant period, as it stimulates the laying and maturation of flower buds (zygocactus, strelitzia, clivia).

Rare watering . Plants are left dry for several days, weeks, months. This applies to succulents (cacti, echeveria, aloe, sedum), as well as deciduous tuberous and bulbous plants that have a dormant period (krinum, gloxinia, hippeastrum, caladium).
Most plants are watered abundantly in summer, moderately in winter. Strong drying of the soil is just as dangerous as excessive watering: part of the root system dies (especially young roots), the leaves turn yellow and fall off (usually the lower ones first). Plants that have been overdried repeatedly gradually weaken and lose their decorative effect. There are plants that cannot stand strong drying at all and die immediately (ivy, azalea, hoya, cissus, conifers, camellia, citrus). Frequent drying also harms the soil itself: its structure, porosity, gas exchange are disturbed, it gradually becomes denser, dries faster.

The need for watering is determined different ways. Outwardly dried soil is lighter than damp. However, if the plants are planted in peat, it is not enough to be guided by this sign alone. Most often, the soil is checked by touch (it should be slightly damp, crumble, not stick to your fingers). The need for watering is also determined by the weight of the pot with the plant, by the sound when tapping on the wall of the pot (if the pot is heavy and the sound is deaf, it is too early to water). For large plants in tubs and boxes, the need for watering is determined by touch, but not by the top layer of soil, but at a depth of several centimeters. In large pots, the condition of the soil is best determined by touch and sound at the same time. The plant consumes especially a lot of water during growth, that is, in spring and summer. The need for watering should be checked daily, and in summer, in hot weather, in the morning and evening.

The main watering is best done in the morning. With each watering, the plant needs to be given enough water so that it soaks the entire earthen ball well and goes to the saucer. If air bubbles are visible on the surface of the soil, watering is repeated until there are none. Watering a little every day is not recommended, since in this case the water will only wet upper layer earth, and the roots at the bottom of the pot will dry out. Usually, plants are watered from above, so that the excess of calcium, magnesium and other salts contained in the water, which adversely affects the root system, is absorbed by the upper soil layer, which has fewer roots. Sometimes, fearing the appearance of spots on the leaves or the rotting of tubers when water gets on them, the plants are watered from below, pouring water into the saucer. This should not be done. Spots on the leaves can be avoided if you use warm water, - after all, spots are formed as a result of a large difference in the temperature of the leaves heated in the sun and cold water. Water from a saucer or planter is drained after watering so that the roots do not rot. This is especially important to do in autumn and winter.
If the water during irrigation does not seep into the saucer, but stagnates on the surface, you need to check if it is clogged drainage hole. Sometimes, on the contrary, the water flows very quickly onto the saucer. This means that the soil is very dry, water flows down the walls of the pot, not having time to wet it. Such plants need to be watered very well, putting them in a basin of tepid water so that it completely covers the pot, and sprinkle with warm water. When air bubbles stop appearing on the surface of the soil, the pots are removed from the water.

Plants need to be watered room temperature(22-24°C) or slightly warmer. At low temperatures, the root system is inactive, therefore, too warm water cannot be used in winter, so as not to cause premature plant growth. In summer, plants are watered with warmer water (up to 30-32 ° C). The hotter the room, the warmer the water used for watering and spraying plants should be. Watering cold water, especially in a warm room, can cause leaf drop. Water for irrigation should be soft, slightly acidic, free from calcium and magnesium salts. It is not recommended to use rain and melt water in industrial areas, as it may have alkaline reaction and contain impurities harmful to plants. More often, for irrigation, you have to use tap water containing chlorine, calcium and magnesium salts, which adversely affect plants. The high content of calcium salts in water leads to the fact that essential elements nutrients found in the soil (phosphorus, iron, manganese, aluminum, boron, etc.) are converted into compounds inaccessible to plants.

Most indoor plants need little acidic soils, and some normally develop only on sour. Therefore, when watering, it is also necessary to take into account the acidity of the soil. For most plants, soils with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5 are optimal. Azaleas, camellias, bromeliads, conifers, many Gesneriaceae and myrtle plants need more acidic soils with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5. To determine the pH of the soil solution, use the Alyamovsky device or universal indicator paper, which is sold in stores. chemicals. With long-term cultivation of plants in the same soil, so many calcium salts accumulate in it that the soil becomes alkaline (pH reaches 8 and above).
At home, some lovers use boiled water for irrigation or defend tap water within 1-2 days. In both cases, chlorine escapes from the water and a small part of calcium carbonates precipitates. More effective way water softening - adding oxalic acid to it, which precipitates calcium. The amount of acid to be added to tap water is determined on a case-by-case basis. empirically: acid is gradually added in small amounts to water (hundredths of a gram per 1 liter of water) and the pH is checked with litmus paper, bringing it to 5.5. If the earth is highly alkaline (pH 7), plants can be watered for some time not with tap water, but with a weak solution (0.1%) of orthophosphoric, sulfuric or citric acids. They do not precipitate calcium, but acidify the soil substrate.

A few words about how to ensure the watering of plants during the holidays. Before leaving for a few days, put the plants in a basin filled with water 1/3 of the height of the pot. If you are going to be absent for a longer time (3-4 weeks), fill the containers with peat or earth to a height of 15-20 cm, dig in the plants, after watering them well, and moisten them again. Plants should be placed in a lit place, but not in the sun. There is another way to water. A vessel with water is placed above the plants, from which a woolen or cotton cord is lowered into each pot, which conducts water well. A pot with a plant can be placed above a container of water. In this case, the second end of the cord is inserted into the drainage hole. You can put a few pieces of coal in the water to disinfect.

It is with watering with such a seemingly simple procedure that the most gross mistakes of amateur flower growers are associated, since plants suffer greatly from both excess and lack of moisture. But if you choose the lesser of two evils, it is always better to underfill than overfill.

Watering is a delicate matter. Plants should be watered in such a way that they are sufficiently provided with moisture during the growth period and the earthen ball does not dry out during the dormant period. Learning to determine the need of each plant for water is your first task.

Since the need for moist nutrition is different, only by observing each individual plant for some time, you can determine when and how much moisture it needs.

Why do plants suffer from improper watering?

Strictly speaking, it is not the excess (or insufficient) moisture itself that is harmful, but its negative action on the ground. Soil properties change: excess moisture increases its acidity, and lack of it increases its alkalinity.

For example, cacti die not from excessive watering, but from the high acidity of the soil, which is formed from excessive water intake.

If the plant does not have enough moisture, irregular watering, then the numerous, most vital roots, and especially the root hairs adjacent to the walls of the pot, dry out and stop absorbing water. As a result, from a lack of moisture, the leaves will become lethargic and drooping, and then completely dry out. The flowers fade and fall just as quickly.

With excessive watering, water clogs all the pores in the soil, the root system is flooded. The roots stop breathing and die, and the aerial part of the plant dries up, since nutrients are not supplied to it.

How often should plants be watered?

Florists are armed with several ways to check the pre-irrigation condition of the soil. Dry earth always lags behind its edge, and its upper layer is light.

For flowers growing in a cold and shaded room, it is recommended to carefully loosen the topsoil. Watering is needed if it has dried out by 1 - 1.5 cm.

The speed of drying of the soil depends on the size of the pot and the composition of the earthen mixture. The moisture content in a smaller container is consumed faster than in a larger one. Therefore, plants planted in large containers are watered less frequently. More frequent watering require plants planted in ceramic pots (compared to plastic ones, with other care methods being equal).

Young, strong and healthy plants need abundant watering; weakened ones require careful, moderate watering. Deciduous plants require more moisture than evergreens.

During the period of strong growth, and this is spring and summer, plants, with rare exceptions, are watered daily, and many species even 2 times a day (especially in hot weather). With the weakening of growth, moisture consumption decreases, and the plant needs it least of all in a dormant state.

Seasonal differences in the irrigation regime are due to the different needs of plants for moisture during the period of growth and dormancy. When watering during the spring-summer active growth of plants, gardeners' mistakes, firstly, are rare, and secondly, most of them can be quickly corrected, since all plants need watering.

It should be cautioned: even a small mistake in watering in the autumn-winter season can become difficult to fix, if not completely fatal. So, abundant watering of indoor crops at this time leads to a violation of the breathing of the roots, causing them to rot.

Starting from September, watering is gradually reduced, but with the inclusion central heating increase it a little. It is very important to follow the rules for watering when the temperature drops during the off-season (second half of October), since the metabolism of plants at this time is sharply reduced. And with slow life processes, the plant cannot receive and give water.

At low temperatures and abundant watering, the phenomenon of physiological dryness occurs: there is plenty of water, but the plant is not able to absorb it.

Spring watering should be strengthened with the appearance of the first leaf after winter. And be sure to reduce watering during a cold snap in April - May, when the heating is turned off.

V warm time years, the vast majority of crops are abundantly watered. However, it is necessary to water not just all crops, but personally each of them, for this it is necessary to observe and know the characteristics of each. So, if the earthy ball of a palm tree and many other tubs begins to dry out, then the tips of their leaves become brown and dry.

It is necessary to water the palm tree carefully, with a watering can with a long spout, so that water does not get on the growth point, otherwise even with optimal mode watering the plant will dry out. This rule - do not pour on the growing point - applies to all plants without exception.

Watering ampelous plants

Watering ampelous plants has its own characteristics due to the fact that they are located much higher than other indoor plants, and their soil dries out much faster than, for example, standing on the windowsill, since warm air in rooms rises up.

How to avoid difficulties with watering high-lying plants? First, you need to buy a watering can with the longest spout. Once a week, you can remove the hanging pots and immerse them in water so that the earth is saturated with moisture “with a margin”, drain excess moisture and return the plants to the height of the position.

In winter, ampelous plants need to be sprayed often, since the air at the top is not only warmer, but also drier. Most convenient way to humidify the air around the plants is to use a spray.

All gardeners agree that best water- rain, but indoor crops are watered with ordinary tap water. Snow water or ice water obtained from refrigerators is also used.

Tap water must be defended for at least a day in an open container and during this time it should be poured 2-3 times in a thin stream so that it is saturated with atmospheric oxygen and chlorine evaporates from it.

As for boiled water, then even experts disagree on this issue. Some advocate it (soft), others are categorically against it (during the boiling process, the air necessary for plants is removed from it), others strongly advise watering with water drawn from a tap with hot water(the hardness is close to boiled). Therefore, it is up to you to decide, based on your experience and practice.

Many plants are sensitive to both water hardness and high lime content. Optimum water (pH 5.5 - 6) with an excess of lime is obtained by filtering it through a layer of peat. To soften hard water, amateur flower growers add a few drops of phosphoric, sulfuric, hydrochloric or other acid to a bucket of water. However, constant watering with such water leads to acidification of the substrate. Do not soften water by adding sodium, which is toxic to plants.

Plants absolutely cannot stand being watered with too cold or too warm water. Watering with cold water is a direct path to root rot.

Water for watering plants during the period of strong growth and flowering should be 2 - 3 ° C higher than the temperature room air, during the dormant period - only at room temperature, since watering warm can lead them to premature awakening.

Water must be clean, i.e. do not contain mechanical and chemical impurities. Some gardeners believe that "waste water" from the kitchen is ideal for watering. For example, the water left after boiling potatoes contains growth-promoting starch. True, such a decoction is suitable only if it is not salted.

The same applies to the water in which the vegetables were boiled. The settled mineral water (without carbon dioxide) can also be used for irrigation. But it is absolutely impossible to water the plants with soapy water.

How to water plants properly?

In traditional watering from above, a jet of water is directed as close as possible to the edge of the dish so as not to wet the root collar. Therefore, it is better to use a watering can.

For abundant watering, when all the first portion of water is absorbed into the ground, pour until it comes out onto the pan. An hour after watering, the water from the pan should be drained.

Many crops are recommended to be watered from below, i.e. pour water into the pan, from where it is gradually absorbed into the ground. If the whole lump is wet and the surface of the earth in the pot is wet, watering is complete. If all the water is absorbed, and the earth on top remains dry, then the pan must be filled with water again.

Saintpaulia, gloxinia and cyclamen do not like water on the leaves. They should be watered from below, immersing the pots in water approximately to the "shoulders" until the top layer of soil in the pot becomes wet. Next, the pot is placed on a pallet so that the glass has excess moisture, and only after that the plant is returned to its permanent place.

This method of irrigation is also used for other crops, when the dried soil does not allow moisture to pass evenly.

In the summer, plants are watered in the evening when they have cooled down after sunbathing, or twice - in the early morning and evening, in winter - in the morning.

If the soil mixture is very dry and is no longer able to absorb water poured onto its surface, you need to urgently put the pot on the "hangers" in a container of water until the soil on top becomes wet.

More often the opposite happens - plants suffer from excessive watering. At first, the “drenched” plant does not show signs of its disease state, but over time, its leaves become lethargic, and if you continue to water, they will fall off and the plant will die.

In case of waterlogging, the plant is taken out of the pot, the rotten roots are cut with a knife. The places of the cut should be sprinkled with crushed coal, let it dry, then transplant the plant into the soil mixture of the previous composition, but with the addition (up to half) of coarse-grained sand.

If you left for a long time and there is no one to water the plants

Take advantage in a suitable way gradual moistening of the soil in pots. If there are not many plants, rearrange flower pots to more shaded and cool place into a wide container of water. Good results for moderately watered plants are obtained by covering the soil with well-moistened moss.

For compact plants, you can arrange the so-called "dropper". To do this, a wet sponge or a plastic bag of water with a tightly tied neck is left on the surface of the earth in a pot, puncturing a small hole in it.

For a large plant in a large bowl, use instead of a bag plastic bottle with water, closing it with a cork and making several holes near the neck. The bottle (2 - 3 bottles) is turned upside down and stuck into the soil. In this way, the plant can be provided with moisture for a week.

Currently, a special moisture accumulator - hydrogel is widely used. This is a kind of miniature sponge, which looks like translucent granules: they absorb only 2 g and tenaciously hold up to 1 liter. water. When swelling in water, miracle - granules increase hundreds of times, become jelly-like, while maintaining their strength.

With a single watering, an earthen lump with a hydrogel filling absorbs a really huge amount of water, which it gives to the roots of plants gradually, as if automatically maintaining optimal soil moisture.

In the process of swelling - evaporation, the hydrogel either increases many times, then decreases in volume, as a result, the soil does not cake, remains loose and porous, breathable. And most importantly, the earth in a pot never dries up and does not become waterlogged, its humidity is always optimal, which is almost impossible to achieve.

no other way.

Apply the granules to the soil in a simple way: several holes are pierced with a pencil in an earthen coma along the edge of the pot and granules are poured into them. It is more convenient to mix them with the soil for transplanting plants at the rate of 2 g of granules per 1 kg of soil.

Hydrogel with a full complex of fertilizers is especially effective. The roots of plants, penetrating inside the jelly-like granules, are supplied with water and all nutrients for a long time.

A one-time application of hydrogel is enough to feed plants for 3-4 years, and an overdose of fertilizers is not dangerous, since nutrition occurs only "on demand" of the plant, the rest of the nutrients are in stock.

Plants (and seedlings) cultivated in a soil mixture with the addition of unique granules are watered 2-3 times a month, and the consumption of irrigation water is reduced by 3 times, as the useless evaporation of moisture decreases.

Watering - necessary condition for plant life. Growing without watering is impossible for any plant, they all need water. Many people water their plants "how it goes", on occasion, but do not wonder how flowers should be watered. But in order for the plants to always look beautiful, so that watering brings maximum benefit to them, you need to know some rules for watering houseplants. So,

1. What water to water indoor flowers?

Water for watering plants can be ordinary tap water, but settled for at least a day. In order for the chlorine to evaporate, it is necessary to defend the water in an open container. Soft water for irrigation is suitable for most in the best way. Tap water is mostly hard. Even harder water from wells, it is not at all suitable for watering indoor plants.

How to soften such water for irrigation? It is enough to boil it for 3-5 minutes. When boiling, most of the harmful salts precipitate, and the water becomes soft.

It is undesirable to water the plants with distilled water, because. it doesn't have mineral salts required for plants. The exceptions are azaleas, gardenias, ferns, camellias, orchids and some predator plants, for which watering with distilled water is even desirable, because. they need to be watered only with soft water.

It is better not to use water from pump rooms and from cylinders for watering domestic plants, because. its composition is not known to you, and such water can harm the plant.

Since most tap water is alkaline, it must be neutralized. If this is not done, the soil becomes alkaline over time, as a result of which the root system of plants suffers. To neutralize the alkaline reaction aquatic environment, it needs to be slightly acidified. To do this, just add food-grade citric acid to the water for irrigation at the rate of 1 teaspoon of citric acid per 5 liters of water. citric acid add to warm water just before watering.

2. What temperature should the water be for irrigation?

Watering home plants with cold water is unacceptable, because. when watering with such water, the vessels of the root system of plants narrow, and as a result, moisture and nutrition are poorly supplied to their upper part, the root gradually dies off and the plant may die. Watering flowering plants with cold water can cause flowers and ovaries to fall off.

Cold water can and should be watered for plants that are in a dormant period. This prevents premature vegetation and plant depletion. For watering plants that have stopped growing for the period of winter dormancy, they use water that is colder than the air temperature in the room, sometimes even water with snow.

In all other cases optimum temperature water for watering domestic plants is + 30-34 ° C, so the water needs to be slightly heated, even in summer. Watering with such water favorably affects the growth and development of plants.

3. What is the water consumption for watering plants?

The plant needs to be watered throughout the entire volume of the flowerpot in small portions so that the soil is saturated with water from top to bottom. You need to water until water appears in the pan. In this case, you can be sure that both the upper and lower parts of the root system will receive a sufficient amount of moisture. After 30 - 40 minutes, the water is removed from the pan. During this time, the root system of the plant will have time to absorb the moisture that it did not have time to absorb during watering. Leave water for more for a long time it is impossible, otherwise you can provoke rotting of the root system. If the flowerpot is large and cannot be lifted, you can remove water from the pan with a syringe, sponge, or moisture-absorbing wipes.

4. When is the next watering?

How many times to water home plants is a matter that requires an individual approach. The frequency of watering depends on the type of plant, the volume of the flowerpot, the composition of the soil, the activity of the root system and weather conditions. On cloudy and cool days, plants are watered less often than on clear and sunny days; with dry and warm indoor air, plants need to be watered more abundantly than with humid and colder air; plants in light and loose soil require more frequent watering than those growing in dense, heavy soil.

How to calculate watering? The best guideline for deciding on watering is the drying of an earthen coma. The signal for the need for watering is the drying of the topsoil by 1.5 - 2 cm. Succulent plants are watered after the earthen clod dries to a depth of 3 - 10 cm (the larger the container, the deeper the soil should dry out).

But what if there is no way to water the plants in a timely manner (for example, during the holidays)? How to leave flowers without watering? Can they handle this stress? Read about how to properly organize watering during a vacation or business trip.