Modern cinder block houses. How to disassemble a wall from foam blocks Dismantling a wall from tongue-and-groove plates

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Wall repair cinder block house do it yourself.

(from personal experience)

Cinder block houses built in the 50s and 70s are beginning to slowly crack. And not just cracks, but good cracks. The reasons for the cracks may be different, but the main thing is that before our fathers and mothers had nowhere to live, but they wanted to live like everyone else. normal people v own home, so they built houses from what was and said at the same time: "This is enough for our age." During construction, they saved on literally everything: on the foundation, on cement, on the quality of building materials, on the professional skills of specialists. And such a concept as a monolith and reinforcement was generally from the realm of fantasy. I will only note one thing, that of all the available reasons (given below), the main and main reason that old brick and cinder block houses are cracking is not a high-quality foundation. As usual, the depth of the foundation was carried out above the freezing depth, without the use of reinforcement either at the bottom or at the top of the foundation. Which is completely unacceptable, especially on heaving soils... Such a foundation design unambiguously leads to its gradual destruction.

What to do with such cinder block houses and their foundations?
Building a new home will cost you a pretty penny. And in a crumbling house, where plaster is falling, walls crack and bend, the foundation is destroyed, living is shameful, unpleasant, and not safe.

There can be only three solutions here:

sell old house and using the proceeds to start building a new one,
break everything down and rebuild everything
make a major overhaul of an old cinder block house, applying new modern technologies construction.
Here we will focus only on the latest scenario, namely, do-it-yourself repair of an old cinder block house.

You need to start repairs by assessing the condition of the house, examining it by specialists and deciding on the possibility of repairing, its effectiveness and durability.

On many sites you can find information on how to repair cracks at home by applying staples to the cracks and plastering them. Yes, for a while you can throw dust in your eyes and cover up the thrush! But, firstly, simply covering up the cracks and applying staples will not strengthen the house, after a while the crack will appear again, and secondly: you will simply throw money away with practically no effect. But what if the crack appears again from year to year, and the wall begins to tilt? Deviations from the vertical state are clearly visible along the plumb line. In this case, we urgently need to make a decision and we make - the cinder block house needs a major overhaul.

You need to start a major overhaul of an old house with repairing the foundation.

Read more on the page repairing the foundation of a stone house.

Cracks in the wall of the house

How to additionally strengthen the walls of the house?

In addition to repairing the foundation, for old houses built from loose cinder blocks, it is recommended to repair walls by installing several monolithic reinforced belts along the perimeter of the house, followed by plastering on a metal mesh. In combination with the repair of the foundation, these measures can significantly extend the life of the old stone and cinder block house.

Due to the aging of houses old building this problem arises everywhere today.

Reinforcement belt for wall reinforcement The photo shows a variant of the upper wall reinforcement made of cinder blocks including brick corner posts of the house.

Rebar belts are installed at least along the top of the house (above the window openings) in several rows (at least 2 rows) around the entire perimeter. The reinforcement is necessarily corrugated and at least 6 meters long (the diameter of the reinforcement in our case is 12 mm.) With bandaging or welding to each other to achieve a single monolithic structure.

An additional reinforcing belt is installed at the level of the bottom of the window openings in one or two rows along the perimeter of the house.

Material:

fittings for 12-14,
reinforcing mesh (to achieve the greatest reinforcing effect, it is rolled out and attached to the wall horizontally),
sand-cement mixture.
In order to achieve a more rigid and unified structure, in a brick pillar, for laying reinforcement, a recess was scraped (with a grinder). Which, subsequently, is moistened or treated with a primer and sealed with a solution.

See the photo below.

Renovation of the wall of an old house

Reinforcement and reinforcing mesh after partial plastering.

Plaster the old house along the lighthouses. This will save you a lot of time and give your renovated home a good look.

I will separately dwell on the mistake made during the repair of the walls of this house.

Namely: the reinforcing mesh was applied only in the sections of cinder block walls, brick corner posts were plastered without mesh. As a result, after winter, the plaster on one of the pillars began to recede. Possible cause This situation was caused by insufficient preparation of the surface of the brick pillar for plastering.

Still, the best option and more reliable in all respects is the use of a reinforcing mesh (including polymer). The mesh is fastened on the section of the cinder block wall - with simple nails with plastic washers, and in sections brickwork- dowels.

House wall after renovation

After plastering on the lighthouses, the walls of the house are putty with facade putty and painted with facade paint.

The photo shows the same fragment of the wall after two years of operation.

Is it possible to build a second floor after renovating an old cinder block house?

Yes, it is possible! But subject to a number of conditions and requirements.

The main ones are:

Repair of the foundation must be carried out with a double-sided reinforced concrete clip, while the clips must be connected with anchors;
To reliably support the second floor in the slag walls, there must be either brick support pillars(as in our case) or metal support pipes installed during the repair of the walls (usually square 100 x 100). Better both;
Mandatory construction on top of the cinder block wall of the armpole around the entire perimeter of the house, including everything load-bearing walls... The thickness of the arm-belt is not less than 10 - 15 cm. The support for the arm-belt is brick pillars and metal support pipes built into the cinder block walls;
The construction of the second floor is carried out from lightweight materials (gas silicate, lightweight corpulent expanded clay concrete block"thermolux") with the use of masonry mesh reinforcement;
on top of the second floor, a second arm-belt with a thickness of 5-8 cm is being built.
the overlap of the second floor is also constructed lightweight.

crack on the wall of the house

Violation or absence of a blind area is one of the reasons for the formation of cracks in the house.

Some homeowners do not pay enough attention to the condition of the blind area around the house. What does this lead to?
Let's analyze a special case.

It should be noted that in most cases, in houses with gable roofs, cracks along the walls of the house are formed on the sides where the dartons are located. Why? In case of violation of the blind area under the various sides of the foundation of the house with gable roof gets a different amount of precipitation (water). So from the side where the roof slopes are directed and, accordingly, more water flows down, the soil under the foundation softens and, accordingly, sags more and faster than the side of the foundation to which the roof slopes are not directed.

The figure shows that the side of the foundation, where water practically does not get from the roof, rests on a solid foundation, and along the edges of the house, where all the water flows from the roof, the foundation most likely begins to sag.

The result of such an uneven subsidence of the foundation leads to the fact that the walls on the side of the roof slope sag more, and the walls, where there is no water flow, less. As a result - a crack (break) along the walls of the house from the side of the fartons.

Own housing construction is gaining momentum. No wonder - the dignity of a private house is not exaggerated. In connection with big amount materials presented by the industry for construction, from the owner land plot the problem of choice arises - each has pluses and minuses. The most common is the construction of a house from cinder blocks. It is worth making out in detail whether this material is really that good.

The cinder blocks are light enough to facilitate installation.

There is also a fly in the ointment - disadvantages:

1. The cinder block perfectly absorbs moisture. Therefore, it will require a fast construction process - you cannot delay the construction site. This property is associated with such troubles as the destruction of an unenclosed basement or "forgotten" waterproofing of the foundation. Dampness is the enemy of private housing construction, you should immediately think about external finishing.
2. The components of the product, of mineral origin, therefore, can accumulate radiation in themselves. Therefore, it is worth asking the manufacturer where the material is supplied from. If there are mines in the area, then it is worth considering whether to take such a cinder block for your own construction.
3. Large percentage of scrap. Each element is a material that is easily exposed to machining... Then what is considered sloppy work with him?
4. It is impossible to build high houses from cinder block, the maximum that the structure can withstand is two floors. All for the same reason - exposure to dampness and, as a result, destruction.
5. Cinder block requires monolithic foundation- tape. No piles or pillars will work.
6. Price finished product is not democratic. It is much more profitable to develop the solution yourself.

If the above does not scare the developer, you can start work.

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Do-it-yourself cinder block: savings

It is worth noting that the manufacturing process is a costly physical labor, therefore, it will not work to put production on stream without molding and mixing devices. So, what you need for this:

• water;
• sand;
• fine fraction slag or sifted and milled;
• cement M-500. The 400th option is also possible, but then more of it will be required, and the quality will be lower;
• mixer;
• molding sealing machine.

To begin with, it is worth preparing all the connecting elements. That is, the compositions and substances should be already available, and not purchased in addition in the process. This includes a plasticizer. It is added to the fortress mix. He may not be needed, but let it be for a reserve.

Make a calculation for the total amount of material required. By the way, if you buy cinder blocks one by one, then taking the calculated figure as the desired one, you can be mistaken at times. The fact is that the cinder block is more fragile, and given the peculiarities of the house, door and window openings, ceilings and sawing, a battle cannot be avoided. Therefore, independent production is much more profitable in this regard than purchasing material.

How to correctly calculate the number of units required in order to build? Start at the perimeter. For example, take a small building 6 × 9 m and a height of 3 m. This is not a simple box with four walls - you should also take into account the internal, load-bearing one. Thus, you get - 6 + 6 + 6 + 9 + 9 = 36 running meters by multiplying this figure by the height, you get the area of ​​the building = 108 m².

Next, calculate how much the cinder blocks occupy in one meter of the wall. A standard stone is 40 cm long and 20 cm wide. Multiply this data, you get 0.08 m², and dividing 1 m² by the result obtained, it becomes clear that 12.5 pieces of cinder blocks are required for one meter of the wall. But the wall is built in two stones, that is, the resulting value must be multiplied by 2. Thus, in one square place of the wall there are 25 pieces of cinder blocks. Now the total amount is easy to calculate - 25 × 108 = 2700 pieces.

This calculation does not include deductions for door and window openings... There is no need to rush to do this. As mentioned earlier, there will be a fight.

One more important point- after manufacturing, the blocks need time to hold. Drying takes place within a week, but full aging takes a month. It is better to comply with these deadlines, otherwise there is a risk of getting low-quality walls.

About proportions. As a rule, for the production of one unit, it is customary to use 7 parts of slag, 2 sand, 1.5-3 parts of water, and 5 g of plasticizer. Someone adds fine gravel, as in connection with the massive switch to gas, waste coal are now becoming scarce. Hence the relatively high price.

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1. Material is poured into the mixer in layers and water is poured. Mix thoroughly. By the way, you need to use open bags of cement right away, otherwise it will later give lumps if it stands, and the quality of the cinder blocks will be low. All that is needed is an even geometrically correct shape.
2. Next, the mortar is placed in a vibrating molding machine for precise shrinkage. You need to lay it little by little, and periodically turn on vibration, so there is a chance to get even cinder blocks without internal voids and disturbances. The forms themselves may contain technological holes, so that when building a house, air is retained in these sectors, which, as you know, is the best conductor of heat.
3. After enough time for compaction - the instruction will tell you how much - the finished cinder block is removed and sent to dry in a dark and humid room.
4. When you add any color to the solution, you get beautiful shade building material, so the house can be made in any color scheme.

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Self-construction process

Having prepared the right amount cinder blocks, you can start preparing the site. How to build a house from cinder blocks? What does this include? However, you need to devote time and the necessary tools:

• shovel;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• trowel;
• hacksaw;
• lacing;
• empty containers;
• level, etc.

1. Cleaning the soil from all kinds of vegetation. It is recommended that the area be shed with a weed control agent and the roots of the wood must be thoroughly uprooted. It is recommended that the area be fenced off from other living space for security reasons. Ideally, if cinder blocks are already stored on your own site and you do not have to import them.
2. Next is the foundation.

According to the plan, ditches are dug, a sand and gravel cushion is laid inside and carefully compacted.

The base needs to be insulated: on the sides of the ditches, expanded polystyrene plates are laid out and, thus, you don't have to worry about the foundation - it will withstand the frost. Natural pillow won't let you linger groundwater containing a percentage of acid or alkali, which can be detrimental to the concrete.

Then reinforcement begins. To build a house from cinder blocks, a solid foundation is required due to the ease of the construction itself. This is exactly the function of the reinforcement. For this, the steel rods are tied together and the nodes are boiled. Particular attention should be paid to corners and floors.

Then the plinth formwork is built. As a rule, its height is up to 1 m. For this, panels or plywood are installed along the ditches and then the space can be filled. It is not a sin to save money on concrete if you saddle the foundation with rubble, that is, filled with construction waste: fragments of bricks, stones and other things. Then the insides are also poured. The foundation is ready only after two to three weeks. Basically, the technology of maintaining shrinkage assumes the presence of a long time - at least a year.

After time and complete hardening of concrete, the surface of the foundation and basement floor waterproof. For this, roofing material is used in two layers, or bituminous mastic melted to liquid state... Thus, the influence of the foundation condensate on the cinder block itself is excluded.

Next, they are building, starting the installation of the material from the corners of the house. And they immediately lay rough floors - it will be more convenient to work this way. It is very convenient to use stakes and harsh threads to mark the level. Cinder blocks should be laid without getting out of their edges. Layer cement mortar should not exceed 1.5 cm, so as not to peek out of the rows with sloppy squeezing, and also not to be additional bridges of cold, because cement does not have any heat capacity.

After completing the construction at the desired height, you need to make a bundle with a steel corner, and you can start rafter system... To do this, use metal beams or wooden beams... Fix them anchor bolts and steel wire... No other fastener is suitable, because it is too weak for such a design.

The roof is made of wood. First, the rafters are installed, then ridge run, and the next step will be the crate and the device of the gables. After that, you can insulate it with expanded clay or another type of insulation and start finishing.

Here is a description of the important processes of the question - how to build a house. As is clear from what has been written, there is nothing complicated here. You can dare.

Sooner or later, each of us gets tired of the familiar atmosphere of a house or apartment and comes a natural desire to somehow change it by redeveloping the living quarters. This event involves a partial modification of the walls or their complete demolition. In this lesson we will tell you about how to break a wall right depending on the material from which it is made, and what tools are needed for this.

Choosing in your opinion perfect option for redevelopment, you must obtain permission for its implementation in the appropriate government bodies... Without their written consent, redevelopment will be considered illegal, which in the future may complicate the sale or re-registration of housing.

Remember that changes in the walls during redevelopment can cause their displacement, which can lead to a violation of the stability of the house and other unpredictable consequences. Anyway, before you break concrete wall or a brick wall should be consulted with a construction professional.

Choosing the right tool for the job

The main reasons for deciding to demolish or modify the walls is the need to combine two adjacent rooms (for example, a bathroom with a toilet or a kitchen with a balcony), as well as create a through opening. Professionals categorically do not recommend touching load-bearing walls! This has implications for your safety.

Load-bearing walls are somewhat thicker than ordinary walls, however, to accurately determine them, you need to first look project documentation or instruct demolition work specialists.

If you decide to break the wall yourself, then after receiving permission for redevelopment, you just have to choose the method of dismantling. Despite the material from which the wall was erected, in practice, 3 main methods are most often used for demolishing a wall partition:

1. the use of a jackhammer;
2. use of a grinder;
3. with a powerful hammer drill or impact drill.

The choice of a specific tool will directly depend on the complexity of the work performed and the inconveniences arising from this. Since breaking a wall without construction dust and garbage you will not succeed, it will not be superfluous to put on overalls and protective equipment (glasses, helmet, respirator).

How to break a wall in an apartment quickly and correctly

Whatever tool and method is used to dismantle the wall, it is necessary to comply with a number of rules for carrying out work:

1. If there is a doorway in the wall to be dismantled, it is necessary to remove the door from the hinges, and then remove the door frame.
2. Be sure to turn off the electricity in case there are wires in the wall. Also remove sockets and switches from the wall, and insulate the ends of the wires on adjacent walls.
3. Dismantle other types of communications, which can also be hidden in the wall.
4. Remove if possible flooring and put a flooring made of planks that will cushion the impact from falling pieces of the wall.
5. Before breaking the wall, you need to mark the wall into pieces. small size... All work on demolishing the wall must begin from the top!
6. To take out debris and dismantled pieces of the wall, prepare in advance a sufficient number of construction bags, which are sold in any hardware store.

The most accurate and least noisy way to remove a wall is to use a grinder. With its help, small pieces are cut out in the wall according to the previously applied markings, which are then knocked out with a sledgehammer. For this type of work, the power of the tools and the diameter of the concrete circle, which will be installed on the grinder, are of great importance. A significant disadvantage of this method is the large amount of dust during operation. Therefore, if the repair is not carried out in the entire apartment, it is advisable to refuse this method. Dust will be everywhere! The only way out is just to use a construction vacuum cleaner.

The most fast way to break a wall is to use a jackhammer or a powerful hammer drill, which is equipped with a special chisel. It will not be difficult for you to disassemble the wall using this method. A significant disadvantage in this case will be the high cost of work and loud noise during operation. but home master you can completely do with a hammer drill of lower power or hammer drill... Therefore, before breaking the wall, think about it.

The work begins with the fact that it is necessary to drill along the marking lines with a tool through holes located close to each other. Next, a piece is gently knocked out of the wall with a sledgehammer, preventing it from falling to the floor if possible. Thus, you can disassemble the wall almost independently.

As you can see, you simply cannot break a wall, especially one made of concrete, without dust and noise, so do not forget to warn your neighbors. The best option in this case, it will involve specialists with professional equipment. Only the price of the question, how much it costs to break the wall, will depend on the material from which the wall is made and the amount of work to dismantle it. Below is the video how to break a concrete wall... It is possible that the information provided will help you with the repair.

Not so long ago, a kind of revolution took place in the world of building materials, with hybrid materials, better known as cinder blocks, occupying the dominant positions in the sales field.

They are produced by pressing concrete with powerful vibrations, if we talk about the composition, then they are used as a basis construction remains, such as: ash, slag, brick breakage, etc.

However, the mixture can also consist of specific components, we are talking about crushed stone, expanded clay, shell.

Of course, such additives make certain adjustments to specifications stone.

If you try in simple words to describe the cinder block, two words come to mind - massiveness and lightness.

Among negative qualities, building material can be attributed: low performance level, low frost resistance and low strength.

It is quite natural that the cinder block structure can quickly become unusable.

All these nuances significantly shed light on the dismantling of a cinder block wall in a domestic environment.

Due to its meager strength, a wall made of the above material can collapse under the blows of an ordinary sledgehammer.

Of course, such weaknesses are a joy to the ordinary owner, because you do not need specialized equipment for destruction, therefore, you can save a lot on rent.

The only subtlety in this matter is the role of the wall, if it is load-bearing, then it is better to abandon attempts to dismantle it, because such an initiative may entail unexpected consequences.

Returning to the topic of equipment, it should be noted that during the dismantling process you should use the following inventory:

1. Respiratory mask, goggles and gloves, long sleeves - excellent protection from thick layers of dust and debris.
2. Roulette and marker - for the purpose of marking the working surface.
3. Jackhammer, puncher, sledgehammer.
4. Garbage bags.

After you have outlined the working area, you need to gradually saw the cinder blocks with a puncher.

Remember, dismantling should proceed exclusively from top to bottom.

Blocks that are not sawn must be carefully demolished with a sledgehammer. After that, we put construction garbage into bags and take it out of the house.

Dismantling a wall of foam blocks

Before starting a specific conversation about the destruction of a structure, it is worth focusing on the list necessary equipment, which will undoubtedly come in handy in this difficult job.

By by and large, we do not need any supernatural equipment, it is enough to arm ourselves with a largely standard arsenal:

1. A special role in this process is assigned to the perforator, moreover, it is desirable to have a model with a so-called "blade" with you.
2. Of course, you can't reach the top of the wall just by raising your hands up, so we need a comfortable and reliable support, that is, a ladder or a table.
3. Think carefully about how you can protect yourself from the huge stream of dust? The most reliable protector is a respirator and goggles.
4. Bags in which you will pack the rest of the structure.

Dismantling a wall of foam blocks is not a particularly significant problem, because the thickness of this building material does not exceed 40 centimeters, and is also characterized by a minimum level of strength.

That's why this process, should go without a bitch, without a hitch.

Dismantling a brick wall

Brickwork is most often used as a partition between rooms.

Of course, in the process overhaul, the owners of a house or apartment have the right to destroy it in order to change the layout, for example, to connect two rooms. " However, how to carry out this procedure?", - an open question.

If you decide to independently master the dismantling of a brick wall, you will have to arm yourself with specialized equipment.

Without the help of which, you will not advance one iota in the process of solving this problem:

1. Crowbar or pickaxe
2. Chisel
3. Jackhammer
4. Sledgehammer or hammer
5. Steel Wedges

It is no less careful to approach the selection of protective equipment, in particular, it is a respiratory mask and a pair of work gloves.

Important! Brick - heavy construction material which, if dropped, could damage the floor covering or furniture.

Therefore, it is better to remove all decor from the zone. renovation works, and cover the floors with old blankets.

Video break down the wall without noise and dust

Use a thick layer of rags as a healthy alternative.

Of particular relevance in recent times use the services of construction consultants who will be able to determine the role and specifics of brickwork.

Of course, it is better to leave the load-bearing walls alone; it is not recommended to demolish them.

And how to properly demolish walls can be learned

Also, you must obtain a documentary permit for the transformation of a house or apartment, the housing commission will help you with this.

Dismantling a plasterboard wall

Today, two methods of destruction of plasterboard walls are actively used.

In conditions of major repairs, many owners are trying to get rid of various flaws and defects that were made during the construction process, in which case the plasterboard walls should be dismantled using the standard method.

Important! All work is done from top to bottom.

I. We turn off the power to the house or apartment, then we remove the electrical wiring, sockets, switches and other all kinds of communications.

II. We remove the doors, and also temporarily dismantle the door frames.

III. Plasterboard walls are erected most often at the joints of the seams, therefore, dismantling should begin with fastenings of self-tapping screws located on beams of a bearing nature.

IV. We mark the working surface.

V. Gradually cut out the selected areas.

Dismantling a plasterboard wall using this method preserves the integrity of metal profiles, in turn, the sheets can be reused in the process of erecting small structures.

The disadvantage is a huge amount of debris and dust.

The second method of disassembly involves the use of magnets in order to detect self-tapping screws.

After that, we extract them with a screwdriver.

Gradually removing the sheets and unscrewing the frame. A kind of spot work that will save you from construction debris.

Dismantling a wall of tongue-and-groove plates

Tongue-and-groove plates- a fairly popular material that is in tremendous demand in the modern construction market.

In the process of destroying a wall made of the above material, you should decide whether you plan to use the dismantled blocks a second time?

If so, the dismantling of the wall from the tongue-and-groove plates should be carried out as carefully as possible so as not to damage the original material.

Many construction experts believe that such an operation cannot be done, but this thesis does not correspond to modern realities.

Basically, the manufacturers of the above blocks save a lot on glue, so disassemble already installed blocks not easy, but quite possible.

In the event that you are not going to reuse the dismantled material, you should get: a grinder with diamond wheel and .

Let's not forget about the means of protection. Remember tongue-and-groove plates material is quite heavy, so be careful.

Just in case, it is worth protecting the floor by first covering it with blankets or rags. Other than that, you will undoubtedly need a sledgehammer and garbage bags.

Briefly describing the dismantling process, let's break it down into the following stages:

1. Sawing a wall with a grinder.
2. Knocking out the structure using a puncher and a sledgehammer.
3. The dismantled material must be crushed into smaller particles.
4. We prepare construction waste for removal.

As you can see, dismantling walls from any material is a fairly affordable operation that every owner can do.

Selected for you:

Overhaul of the premises is often associated with redevelopment, and the basis of this process is the demolition of old partitions and the construction of new ones. Although this is due not only to the work on dismantling the partitions themselves, but also to a number of legal issues to legitimize this procedure, we can only talk about how to break the partition, and you will need to get answers to legal questions in the appropriate authorities at your place. residence.

It is worth noting that the way how to break the partition depends very much on the material used in its construction. If old houses often used wooden and brick partitions, and later, with panel construction - reinforced concrete and plaster, then in houses being built at the present time, as well as in rooms where in last years major repairs were carried out, quite often you can find partitions made of plasterboard or foam blocks. To find out what your partition is made of, you may need to remove some of the plaster from the partition until the bricks or other material that was used to erect it appears.

How to break a drywall partition

Since gypsum board is the most common material in our time, which is used in the construction of partitions, let's first figure out how to break a partition made of it.

If the partition is covered with wallpaper, they must be removed, at least in the places where the drywall is attached to the frame in order to gain access to the self-tapping screws holding it, but since it is difficult to say exactly where they are located, it is often necessary to remove the wallpaper from the surface completely. If the partition is plastered and painted, we find the screws with a magnet and expose them to the cap by removing the putty in these places.

At the next stage, it is necessary to unscrew the screws, disconnect the sheets of drywall from the frame. Further released electrical wiring, if any, etc. is removed thermal insulation material, if it was laid during the construction of the wall.

Dismantling the frame, which is often made of metal profiles, but can also be made of wooden bars, usually comes down to unscrewing the screws and removing the dowel nails or anchors, with which the frame elements are attached to each other and to the walls, ceiling, floor.

At this, the dismantling of the plasterboard partitions can be considered complete.

How to break a foam concrete or brick partition

Partitions made of foam blocks are quite common in houses of modern construction, tk. this material has a number of advantages that are irreplaceable during construction interior partitions... The dismantling of such partitions is similar to the dismantling of brick partitions, which have not lost their popularity in our time, and are quite often found not only in Soviet-era buildings, but also in buildings erected today and even in panel buildings, which have been carried out since their construction. major repairs or redevelopment.

Before breaking such a partition, it is necessary, using wiring diagrams or special devices, to determine where the wires pass on it and, by de-energizing the wiring, release the wires and protect them from damage during demolition of the partition.

Further, from top to bottom, row by row, bricks or blocks are knocked out of the partition, this is done with a hammer or a sledgehammer, sometimes it is not superfluous to use a perforator equipped with a chisel, which is directed to the mortar in the seams between the bricks.

Often, after dismantling the partition from the main walls, floor, ceiling, metal pins or die-cutting used to tie the partition to the building can protrude, if necessary, they are removed using a grinder or other improvised tool.

It is worth considering the fact that bricks and blocks, when falling to the floor, can cause significant damage to it, try to reliably protect it, if you do not plan to overhaul it.

To reduce the amount of dust generated during such work, it is advisable to keep the partition constantly wet.

How to break a wooden partition

WITH wooden partitions on preparatory stage plaster, electrical wiring and debris are usually removed. Further, the partition can be easily disassembled by removing nails and self-tapping screws fastening the structural elements to each other, if necessary, use a conventional or chain Saw.

How to break a concrete partition

It is quite difficult to remove such partitions using only a puncher and a sledgehammer, in addition to the fact that the neighbors, after the start of work, will not allow you to continue them calmly, so are others concrete structures may undergo cracking even before you finish work.

For this reason, it is optimal for demolishing partitions made of concrete to cut them with diamond disc installed in a grinder, however, carrying out such work is associated with increased danger and without proper experience with the tool, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.

If you decide to dismantle the partition yourself, do not forget to de-energize and secure the wiring in the walls from damage.