How to properly install the outdoor unit of the air conditioner. Where to install the air conditioner in the apartment? Is it worth doing the installation yourself

The word split actually means "split", but in technical English it has several meanings. In this case, we are talking about an air conditioning system using an air conditioner with spaced blocks. We will tell you how to install a split system with your own hands in a city apartment and a private house.

How does the air conditioner work?

Installing an air conditioner is a tricky business. In order not to screw up, you need to know exactly what is being done for what. Therefore, let us briefly recall the principle of operation of the air conditioner:

• A refrigerant is supplied to the evaporator through a narrow hole - a die, or nozzle - under pressure: a low-boiling liquid with a high heat of vaporization. In the evaporator chamber, the refrigerant, expanding, boils, evaporates and absorbs a lot of heat ..
• Condensation water forms on the evaporator radiator (dew drops). The condensate flows into the reservoir, and from it through the drainage pipe to the outside.
• A compressor based on the vacuum pump principle continuously pumps refrigerant vapors out of the evaporator chamber. From an increase in pressure behind the pump, the refrigerant heats up and goes into a supercritical state: not a gas or a liquid, something like a very dense fog.
• Further, the refrigerant enters the condensation chamber, also equipped with a radiator, which is blown by a fan. Its temperature drops below the critical one, and the refrigerant condenses into a liquid.
• Liquid refrigerant is blown into the evaporator through a die; the working cycle is repeated.

What you need and don't need an air conditioner

From the operating principle of the air conditioner, it is clear that for its successful operation and economical consumption of electricity during installation, the following must be taken into account:

1. Any thermal contact between the cold and hot zones dramatically increases the power consumption: the compressor, in addition to pumping the agent, now has to drive heat inside the system - for the owner's money.
2. Dust and debris in the system is unacceptable: the vacuum pump is a high-precision device; one piece of metal can damage it.
3. The system must be completely sealed: low-boiling liquids tend to evaporate even through a micron gap.
4. The outdoor unit must be located lower than the indoor unit: in this case, the thermosyphon effect (the heated liquid tends to rise) makes the compressor easier to operate. Otherwise, the compressor, in addition to the additional consumption of electricity to lift the agent, will still have to overcome the thermosiphon effect.
5. The outdoor unit should be located as cool as possible. Any additional heating is paid by the owner.
6. The drain tube must not bend upward anywhere. Any "U" quickly becomes a source of infection: condensate is pure water, in which microbes and fungi are free and at ease, and their spores are always in the air.

What is air split

Air conditioners for split systems are made with separate units: evaporative (internal) and compressor-condensing (external). The names, however, are conditional, since most modern air conditioners can both cool and heat the room; when heated, the refrigerant condenses in the indoor unit, and evaporates in the outdoor unit. Therefore, they often say simply: outdoor and indoor unit.

In some (rather expensive) models of air conditioners, several indoor units are connected to one outdoor unit, which can work separately for cooling and heating. Such a split system, with the initial high cost of operation, turns out to be more economical: in this case, the interroom heat exchange does not interfere, but helps the air conditioner. How a split system is mounted in an apartment is shown in the figure:

When is the best time to tackle a split

It is better to time the installation of a split system in an apartment in a renovation. There is serious work to be done: to install the electrics, you will have to walk more than one wall. If the walls are already tiled, include a new lining in the expenses in advance.

Tool

In order for the split to work and not break down in a day or a week, you need to purchase or rent the following tool:

• A hammer drill with a set of chisels - you will have to make a hole under 100 mm in diameter in the main wall.
• Rebar detector, if the wall is concrete - if you hit the reinforcement bar while hammering, you will have to beat a new hole.
• Pipe cutter. Never cut the refrigerant pipes with a hacksaw! Copper crumbs will surely remain in the gap, which will quickly ruin the compressor.
• Set for flaring tubes. When flaring with improvised means, tightness cannot be achieved. Expansion of tubes will be discussed separately. The set of good flaring kits also includes a pipe cutter with a scraper.
• Scraping (reamer) - a tool for stripping pipe ends. A file or a file will not work because of the same sawdust.
• Bicycle hand pump - to check the tightness of the system.
• Vacuum pump - to evacuate the system before filling. Flushing with refrigerant, which is often recommended, does not remove moisture, and it ruins the compressor as well as metal filings.
• Phase indicator and tester for electrical work.
• Pressure gauge.

About pipelines

Buying pipes

It is better to purchase a copper pipe in a whole bay: it is better to spend on some stock, which will then go somewhere else, than to risk a compressor: sawdust may remain in the tube from which it was cut off. Also, make sure that the ends of the tube in the bay are factory sealed and that the tube itself has no dents or cracks. Long pipes will allow the outdoor unit to be lowered lower, so that some overruns during purchase are then compensated by a good thermosyphon.

Cutting, scraping and flaring of tubes

Before starting the installation, you need to practice expanding the pipes: for an air conditioner this is a vital issue. Flaring is done with a special tool; how it works, looks like, what possible defects are, and what the final result should be - you can see in the figure:

For training, you need to immediately buy a piece of the same from the tube bay; do not touch the bay before installation. At the same time, we will practice trimming and scraping: the tube is cut in a circular motion, and when scraping, the tube must be held with its end down so that the scraped-off burrs do not fall into its lumen.

Outdoor unit installation

It is strongly not recommended to install the outdoor unit on the wall by yourself, starting from the second floor. Why? See the statistics of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and the Ministry of Health in the sections: "Resuscitation" and "Urgent surgery". Fortunately, the upper floors have balconies or loggias.

On the balcony, the outdoor unit fits very well on self-made small (i.e. shallow) brackets, see fig. On any balcony, no matter how you turn it, there is always a north or east side, just right for an air conditioner. But even when installed in a loggia "facing" to the south, the visor will protect the outdoor unit from direct sunlight in the hottest part of the day, when the air conditioner is just working.

With this method of installation, installation and maintenance of the air conditioner is not difficult and does not pose a risk. The only inconvenient operation is fixing the unit to the brackets; it will have to be done leaning over the railing.

To install the brackets, the glazing will have to be removed for a while, and the root parts of the brackets will be embedded in the lower frame of the frame. If the "roots" of the brackets are bent down in the form of horizontally located "U", then you can do without struts and do not touch the balcony trim.

Split system installation

Installation of a split system in an apartment is carried out in the following order:

And now we will describe some of the features of each stage of work. The permissible distances from the walls and ceiling for the indoor and outdoor units are shown in the figure to the right.

Places for indoor units

Indoor units cannot be installed:

1. Above radiators and other heat sources.
2. Behind curtains, drapes, screens and other obstructions to the flow of air.
3. In rooms with sources of electrical interference: workshops with power tools, induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens - pickups can damage the unit processor.

The question immediately arises: what about the kitchen? It turns out that the air conditioner cannot be installed in it at all. Right. The supply of conditioned air into the kitchen is ensured.

Wiring

The smallest air conditioner consumes 1.5 kW of electricity. Therefore, for it you need to lay a separate wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. mm and put an automatic shutdown - as for a boiler or washing machine.

When connecting the wires to the lead-in box, we connect the yellow wire with a longitudinal green stripe to the neutral (neutral wire). The phase and zero are determined by the phase indicator. If the wiring is made of wires in insulation of non-standard colors, zero and phase must be marked at both ends.

Outdoor unit

The installation of the outdoor unit has already been described above.

Hole in the wall

Firstly, if the house is block, you need to determine in advance the location of the reinforcement. It is impossible to cut off the reinforcement caught in the hole: the outer wall is always load-bearing, and violation of the reinforcement is unacceptable.

Secondly, a second person is needed: he must stand below and warn passers-by. An accidentally dropped piece of concrete or brick can cost the owner a long prison sentence.

The hole diameter must be at least 80 mm. Recommendations about 60 and even 50 mm clearly do not take into account thermal insulation.

Pipelines

We cut the tubes to size with a margin of 1 m, for bends. Bend the tubing carefully to avoid kinking or wrinkling. Wrinkles create resistance to the flow of the agent, and this entails increased consumption of electricity. The admissible bending radius of the tubes is at least 100 mm.

Then we put threaded flanges (“nuts”) on the tubes and flare the ends of the tubes. Make sure the flanges are fitted correctly - threaded to the end of the tube.

Finally, we connect the pipes to the fittings. This must be done one at a time so that the cold fitting of the indoor unit is not connected to the hot outdoor one. The matter is facilitated by the fact that in most air conditioners the fittings are hot and cold of different diameters.

We tighten the flanges on the fittings tightly, but not tightly: copper can be easily squeezed. We will reach the threaded connections later, when sealing.

A piece of reinforced plastic tubing is required for drainage. We connect it to the drain pipe either with a threaded flange, if provided, or using a piece of heat-shrinkable tube. You can heat the heat shrink with a soldering iron with light circular movements, slightly touching the tube with a sting.

Electrical connections

Stranded wires in insulation with a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. mm we connect the terminals of the same name of the indoor and outdoor units. If the names of some terminals do not match, we understand the instructions, consult a specialist. Of course, we pass both pipelines and wires through a hole in the wall.

Sealing

When sealing, we use a method proven by generations of gas workers: soap solution. We buy 0.5 liters of distilled water at the pharmacy, heat it "to steam" and, stirring gently, dissolve a spoonful of laundry soap shavings in it.

To seal, remove the outlet nipple, attach a bicycle pump to its branch pipe with a rubber hose. One person pumps up, with another brush he applies soap solution to the threaded connections and tightens them after the bubbles stop appearing, and another 1/8 turn. Remove soap deposits with a damp cloth.

Evacuation

After sealing, the system must be evacuated to remove dust and moisture together with air. To do this, put the nipple in place, tighten it well, attach a vacuum pump to it and pump for an hour - it is necessary that all the moisture in the system evaporates in vacuum and be pumped out with the rest of the air.

Filling and feeding

We fill the system from a cylinder with a refrigerant through an adapter with a pressure gauge to the pressure specified in the instructions.

Attention! It is impossible to fill air conditioners designed for freon with freon, and vice versa.

We connect the power supply wires in strict accordance with the designations on the terminal block - 0 to 0 or N (neutral), phase - according to colors.

Testing

We turn on the automatic disconnector of the air conditioner. At the same time, the air conditioner must enter the test mode itself. If not included, run the test from the remote control. If this does not work out, alas, all guarantees for self-installation are lost. You need to call the master.

Completion

If the test passes, cold air flows, the blinds are set in the desired position and swing, we first wrap the interblock harness on top with a metallized film (you can use an aluminum sleeve for baking) - additional heat shielding will give 2-3% energy savings. Then we wrap the entire bundle with a drainage tube with moisture-resistant electrical tape. It remains to seal the hole in the wall (thoroughly, not with foam) - and that's it, the split system in the apartment is installed by hand.

Installation of an air conditioner in a residential area has its own characteristics. In order for this climatic technology to work most efficiently, it is important to carry out the installation correctly. Not less important suitable capacity... The main parameter for calculations is room volume... But the side of the world that the windows face is also important. So, if it is south, the room will be a priori warmer than in a similar area, but with windows to the north. Therefore, you should choose a device that is 30% more powerful. A low-power air conditioner, even with the correct installation, will not be able to fully cope with the function assigned to it.

Where to start?

So, there is a suitable air conditioner. What's next?

• choice of installation time;
• choice of installation site;
• choice of installation method.

Most often, split systems are installed in apartments, consisting of an internal (evaporator) and an external (condenser) unit. They are interconnected by a tube containing wires and freon. Recently, devices with two indoor units operating autonomously from each other are gaining popularity - this facilitates the installation of an air conditioning system in adjacent rooms.

The optimal time to install an air conditioner is not spring or summer, but repair time.

A separate line must be drawn from the wiring shield for the air conditioner, and if you do this during the repair process, the wires can be successfully masked. And the preparation of the hole for the freon tube is a job, in the literal sense, dusty. Therefore, if there are repairs in the near future, it is better to wait with the installation of the air conditioner.

How to install the external unit correctly

The installation of an air conditioner always begins with the installation of the condenser. Based on the weight of the outdoor unit, brackets are selected that can withstand this load. The brackets must be attached not to the insulation or the cladding of the house, but directly to the wall - a solid foundation.

To protect the device from precipitation, it is recommended to cover it with a visor. It is not necessary, but such a measure will prolong the effectiveness of the apparatus. If the air conditioner is located on one of the first two floors, it will not be superfluous to make a metal cage for it - this will protect the device from theft.

According to the installation rules for this type of climatic technology, the drainage pipe extending from the outdoor unit must be discharged into the sewer.

Placing an outdoor unit under a window

In practice, in our houses, especially multi-storey ones, this is impossible, because the pipes are left to hang freely. But the sound of dripping condensation can be very annoying to the neighbors living below. And this is natural - the knock of drops on the windowsill over time only distracts and annoys more. If you want to maintain good relations with your neighbors (as well as your nerves, which can go to finding out who is right), it is worth considering this moment.

Installation of an outdoor air conditioner unit on the balcony

The optimal way out is to lengthen the drainage tube so that drops fall from it along the wall along a line where there are no window openings or balcony structures. Don't forget about the alternative - application.

Where is the best place to place the indoor unit

The distance between the blocks is directly proportional to the power loss of the device. Therefore, the shorter the distance, the more efficient the air conditioner is.

For this reason, it is preferable to install the indoor unit on the same wall as the external one, or as close to it as possible.

It is important to remember that air conditioners:

Sometimes it seems the most convenient option to place the air conditioner over the cabinet - no one will see it there. But, firstly, this will interfere with the normal operation of the device, and secondly, every time you start the air conditioner, all the dust from the surface will be swept down, and people will breathe it. Therefore, this option is not as good as it seems at first glance.

Important so that the indoor unit of the air conditioner is freely accessible. This will not only provide better performance, but will also allow you to clean the device in a timely manner.

Sometimes they tend to mark the internal block behind curtains or lambrequins - so as not to attract undue attention. Of course, it may not be suitable for a sophisticated interior design, but such a disguise prevents productive cooling of the air.

It is better to spend a little more time choosing an air conditioner and find such a model, the evaporator of which will be in harmony with the interior.

Protective reflector for air conditioner - prevents cold air from directly entering the person

Modern manufacturers offer various options - from laconic classics to very bold solutions, up to, therefore, searches will certainly be crowned with success.

How to install the indoor unit

Actually, the principle of its installation is similar to the principle of installing an external unit. First, a suitable place is selected, then the brackets are attached to the wall, and the evaporator itself is installed on them. The only difference is that before installing the indoor unit, a hole for the freon tube is being prepared.

After that, the indoor and outdoor unit are connected and the air conditioner is connected to the network. The fewer bends in the tube, the more efficiently the air is removed, which means that the more efficiently the device works.

Advice. At the end of the installation, be sure to check the air conditioner for operation.

For this, there are special test programs that allow you to determine if the system is installed correctly.

Should you do the editing yourself?

The installation principle of the air conditioner is generally simple, but the details are very important. So, it is necessary that both blocks are installed exactly - without distortions. Otherwise, condensation may accumulate and, as a result, an early breakdown of the device.

In addition, in some companies a wider guarantee is provided if the installation is done by their qualified specialist, which is quite understandable: this removes all doubts about improper installation as a probable cause of unit breakdown. Nevertheless, for any air conditioner in the instructions there is a detailed description of how exactly this device should be installed. Therefore, if there is an irresistible desire to do the work on your own, this is quite real.

True, it may be difficult to find a tool in order to install the brackets and drill a hole for the freon tube. And on the floors above the first, it is not so easy to install an external unit: you need insurance. Specialists will not have any problems with this - all the equipment is included, they know how to use it, they do it quickly and efficiently.

- it's real, but entrusting the installation to specialists is more efficient.

A properly installed air conditioner does not emit extraneous sounds. It requires only preventive cleaning once or twice a year - in spring or spring and autumn, depending on the intensity of use, as well as refueling with freon once every two years.

For many, air conditioning at home has become simply irreplaceable. It creates a comfortable indoor climate when it's hot outside. But this is only possible if it is installed correctly.

In order not to languish from the heat in the summer, but to warm up the rooms in the cold period, you have planned to purchase a split system. Moreover, you want to install and connect it yourself, in order to save money on professional installation (which is not always the case).

Our publication has 2 tasks: to tell you how to properly install the air conditioner with your own hands and analyze how economically feasible it is. Let's go in the reverse order and first compare the costs for our own and custom installation, and for this we list ...

Installation tools and materials

We will not disclose the principle of operation of the split system here, it is described in detail on our resource. For a general understanding: between two heat exchangers - external and internal, refrigerant (freon) moves through pipelines in a liquid and gaseous state, transferring thermal energy to the street or to the house, depending on the selected mode (air conditioning or heating).

The task of the installer is to place and secure the blocks according to all the rules, combine them with pipes and connect them to the mains, and at the end start and check the units.

It also makes no sense to list every screwdriver or key; a skilled owner should have such a toolkit at hand. Let's take into account only the equipment and devices, without which it is unrealistic to mount and run the air conditioner yourself:

• a hammer drill with a diamond drill or a corona drill (depending on the material of the walls) with a diameter of at least 45 mm;
• Vacuum pump;
• gauge manifold.

Note. If work is being carried out in the process of repairing an apartment, then add a grinder with a circle on concrete to this list. It is useful for performing hidden laying of highways in the grooves of the walls (in common parlance - strobes).

Specialists in refrigeration machines who install climatic equipment will immediately ask: where is the set for cutting and expanding copper pipes with a scraper for stripping (reamer)? The answer is simple: a beginner does not need these devices for a one-time installation of a split system with a power of up to 3 kW. It's easier to buy a ready-made installation kit, which includes all the necessary elements:

• 2 copper tubing in custom lengths 6.35mm (¼ ") and 9.52mm (3/8") with properly flared ends and nuts;
• rubber insulation type K-Flex (already tensioned on the lines);
• corrugated hose for drainage;
• electric cable for 4 or 5 cores with a cross-section of 1.5 mm²;
• bracket for fixing the outdoor unit.

Why is it better to use a kit for installing an air conditioner in an apartment? Firstly, its price is comparable to the cost of rolling tools and materials purchased separately. Secondly, the ends of the lines are cut on the machine, and not by hand, which contributes to a reliable connection. Poor-quality manual flaring is a mistake of most inexperienced craftsmen, leading to freon leaks and compressor breakdown.

Factory (left) and manual rolling (right)

Note. Depending on the conditions for laying communications, you will have to buy a plastic cable channel, PVC winding tape, mounting foam and a visor.

About economic feasibility

For a correct comparison, we will take as a basis the cost of installing a household split system with a capacity of up to 3.5 kW (7000-9000 BTU). This includes the installation and connection of the outdoor and indoor modules with the laying of a bundle (2 lines, cable and drainage) up to 5 m long through the wall. The price includes all related materials listed above.

In Moscow, the installation of low-power home air conditioners costs from 5500 to 8000 rubles, which in dollar terms is 98-143 USD. e. In other cities of the Federation, the cost may differ downward, but the proportions are still the same. Now let's list the average Moscow prices for the purchase of materials and rental of equipment for hand-made installation:

• hammer drill Makita - about 500 rubles. per day;
• two-stage pump for evacuation together with a manometric manifold - 700 rubles per day;
• installation kit with communications 5 m long - 2500 rubles.

For reference. When renting equipment, it is often required to pay a deposit of 4-8 thousand rubles in relation to the specified units. Those wishing to roll copper pipelines on their own can rent tool kits for 300-500 rubles. per day.

Adding the indicated amounts, we get 3700 rubles. or 66 usd That is, if you add 10% here for the purchase of consumables and unforeseen costs, you will get about 4000 rubles (71 USD). This means that the do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner gives savings from 1,500 to 4,000 rubles. As a rule, the lowest price threshold declared on the Internet does not correspond to reality, since it does not include part of the work and will have to pay extra for them.

Hence the conclusion: Personal installation of split systems is economically profitable and allows you to save 2500-3500 rubles on low-power units. or 45-62 usd e. One condition: the work must be done efficiently, otherwise the cost of alterations or repairs will make you remember the proverb about how many times a stingy pays.

Note. Prices in rubles are taken for the period March - April 2017 and may vary depending on the exchange rate and seasonality.

How to install a cooler - instructions

The split system is assembled in several stages:

1. Determine where to hang the outdoor and indoor unit. Mark the route for laying the harness with communications.
2. Drill through the wall and lay the lines. Fix the indoor unit and connect the freon pipes, wiring and drainage to it.
3. Put the outdoor unit, connect all communications to it.
4. Perform commissioning work.

It is important to follow this sequence of operations. You cannot first mount the base plate of the indoor unit, and then drill a hole for the harness, because while drilling, you may stumble upon reinforcement, which will cause the tool to go to the side or up. In the first case, the route will look clumsy, and in the second, you will not meet the requirements for the slope of the pipelines and the plate will have to be rearranged higher.

1. The indoor unit of the air conditioner must be hung in such a way that the air flow does not blow directly over you, otherwise a cold is guaranteed. Optimal location - directly on an external wall or on a side partition next to a window.
2. The minimum distance from the ceiling to the air conditioning unit is 100 mm, but it is better to retreat 30 cm. A minimum clearance of 125 mm is required between the body and the side wall in order to have enough space for curtains.
3. The outdoor unit must be installed so that it can be safely serviced at height. The most convenient place is on the wall within an unglazed loggia or balcony. If they are absent, the unit must be placed under the window so that the master can reach the service ports and all the parts of the apparatus - the compressor, the heat exchanger, and so on.
4. The distance from the building structures to the rear wall of the outdoor unit is 20 cm, to the side wall 300 mm, as shown in the diagram.
5. According to the rules, highways are laid with a slope towards the street. Along the way, there should be no stagnant areas in the form of loops facing up or down.

Advice. It is wrong to put the street module on the wall to the side of the window. Although you can reach the service ports, you will not be able to disassemble the unit without complete dismantling. The foreman who came to repair the compressor has every right to refuse to perform work of increased danger (at height).

We mount the indoor unit

First of all, we advise you to unpack the product, get the operating instructions and study them carefully. The fact is that the diagram given in the technical passport shows exactly how to correctly install and connect the split system of this particular model. Remove the wall plate from the housing immediately. Further, the procedure is as follows:

1. Drill through the outer wall so that the channel slopes towards the street. The optimum hole diameter is 50 mm. It is highly desirable to put a special plastic sleeve in it.
2. Unpack the installation kit and immediately wrap the ends of the freon tubes so that dust and moisture do not get into them. Connect the other ends with the communications inserted into the niche on the back wall of the room unit.
3. Strip the ends of the electrical cable, lead it through the rear opening of the case and connect to the terminals, sketching a small diagram on paper in order to remember the colors.
4. Form a bundle of trunks and cables as shown in the diagram below, then carefully wrap with PVC tape. Do not twist the pipes together!
5. Now position the unit's mounting plate precisely and attach it to the partition with dowels, strictly observing the horizontal.
6. With the help of an assistant, push the harness into the hole, while simultaneously installing the indoor module on the plate (it locks onto the latches).

Interblock communications in a bundle

Advice. If you decide to install a split in the process of home renovation, then it is better to lay the interblock communications hidden by cutting furrows along the route in the walls. Do the same with the power supply cable. How to do it yourself is described in the following video:

What you need to know for successful installation and connection of communications indoors. First, when twisting the refrigerant lines, rotate the union nut, holding the counterpart with a wrench, and not vice versa, as is done in the photo. Otherwise, "fold your head" to the factory tube and it will have to be soldered. Also, do not tighten the nut with great force, so as not to squeeze out the rolling, which will subsequently cause a freon leak.

The second nuance: fasten the plate clearly at the level, the built-in condensate tray has already been made with the desired slope. And the last thing: do not plug the power cable into the outlet, it looks ugly. Concealedly bring a separate line with your machine from the switchboard.

Since the article a priori cannot contain all the details, otherwise it risks turning into a story, we advise you to watch the installation video shot by an experienced craftsman:

We put the outdoor module

When installing an outdoor air conditioner unit in an apartment, it is important to be careful and secure yourself with insurance. Ask an assistant to hold you by the belt while you are busy with fasteners, or use safety equipment. The installation technology is simple and looks like this step by step:

1. Using the building level, mark the drilling points on the wall and make holes for the anchors.
2. Insert the fixing bolts of the outdoor unit into the brackets with the heads down, calculating its position on the site. Secure them with special plastic washers so that they do not fall out.
3. Install the brackets by securing them with anchors. Place the outdoor unit on them, aligning the holes with the bolts. Using a box wrench with an extension, screw on the retaining nuts and tighten them.
4. Lead to the communication unit - screw the tubes to the ports, and connect the cable to the terminals.

Advice. Do not rush to immediately mount the visor, it will prevent you from working with the service ports during the startup process. How the installation of the outer part of the split system is carried out is shown in the video:

The final stage is system launch

All new air conditioners from the factory are charged with freon contained in the outdoor unit. Your task is to fill the entire circuit without losses and start the split system. The order of work is as follows:

1. Connect the outer manifold hose to the service port spool on the gas side (larger tube fits). Connect the middle hose to a vacuum pump. In this case, all taps must be closed.
2. Switch on the pump unit and open the manifold valves. During the first 10-20 seconds of operation, bleed air through the fitting provided on the pump.
3. Evacuate the system for at least 20 minutes if the length of the route does not exceed 5 m. The goal is to completely remove moisture from the circuit and evacuate air, which will be informed by the pressure gauge on the manifold (it will show a pressure of minus 1 bar).
4. After half an hour, close the valve and stop the evacuation, then wait at least 20 minutes, observing the arrow of the pressure gauge. If it starts to rise to zero, then your system is leaking and needs to be reworked.
5. Using the hex wrench, unscrew the service port valve on the liquid side and then on the gas side, thereby filling the circuit with refrigerant.
6. Turn on the air conditioner and check if it works. When the pressure in the system rises, quickly unscrew the hose from the manifold and replace all the plugs.

Attention! If you use an adapter for R410 freon to connect the pressure gauges to the port, then to disconnect, unscrew the nut of the adapter itself, not the hose! Otherwise, all the freon will go into the atmosphere.

When finished, let the air conditioner run in all modes and make sure that the condensate is flowing from the drain, and not elsewhere (for example, along the wall under the indoor unit). You can get more information about installing a street block and starting a split by watching the last video:

Suppose you accidentally released factory refrigerant into the atmosphere, or the gas escaped through a poor quality connection. Eliminate the cause of the leak, buy a bottle of freon and refuel the air conditioner using.

It is unnecessary to write hackneyed phrases about the complexity of self-installation of an air conditioner, this is clear from all of the above. For a better understanding, we advise you to carefully watch the videos from different masters, and also read the comments left under these videos on YouTube. Intelligent installers often unsubscribe there and you can get a lot of useful information from them.

The last point - do not try to save money on the instrument. If you can take a hammer drill from a neighbor, then you are unlikely to find a vacuum pump for free, and you cannot work without it. Although some would-be installers do without evacuation, squeezing the air out of the circuit with freon. But the moisture remains, and then it disables the compressor.

Air conditioner installation guide:

1. Fix the hanging plate of the indoor unit.
you need: a level, a tape measure, a cracker, a small punch / drill, a drill, self-tapping screws, chopiks, a stepladder, a screwdriver, possibly a hammer, a vacuum cleaner, a device for finding hidden wiring.

If something is not there, bullshit is a question, do not rush to buy, because you do not need it except this time. You can hang it on the eye, the garbage is a question that a little crooked, but you can always proudly say, hand mei, he hung it up.
There is no stepladder, a garbage question, a chair on a chair is steered by Foreva. It is desirable that the area of ​​the seat of the lower chair be slightly less than the spread of the legs of the upper chair. This will bring special, piquant notes, and neighbors will be able to replenish their vocabulary with catch phrases.

If there is no drill, bullshit is a question, the walls are usually well poked with a nail.
No screwdriver, bullshit question, there is a hammer.
No hammer, bullshit is a question, something hard to find is not a problem.
If there is nothing to fasten with, bullshit is a question, nails, tape, cold welding, glue, for greater reliability, it is better to combine several fastening methods.
So, the plate is securely fixed.
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2. Make a hole in the wall, and not just a hole, but a normal hole so that the rolling pin would whistle through + a slight downward slope.
you need: a large hammer drill, a long drill, a stepladder, masking tape, an industrial vacuum cleaner, a device for finding hidden wiring.
Stepladder, see problem 1, neighbors will become polyglots.
A device for searching for hidden wiring, garbage is a question, an additional charge of vivacity will not be superfluous.
A hammer drill, a drill, a garbage question, the nail certainly won't work, or it was necessary to start in winter, but a hefty chisel + hammer drives the Foreva. A couple of days of work and an encounter with fresh air.
Molar tape, cellophane, industrial vacuum cleaner, garbage question. As a child, played war games, well, the same + smoke screen and you are invisible to the enemy.
And of course, all your household members will get great, incomparable pleasure doing such a small cleaning after the "war".
Well, the hole is ready, the garbage is huge and crooked, but it will be convenient to lay routes.
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3. We look at the hole, at the indoor unit at the estimated distance to the outdoor unit and understand that the drain pipes are short, um, a problem.
needed: flaring, gas burner (for correct installation), pipe cutter, drain pipe, flex (insulation is shorter)
Well myzh are not suckers what kind of thread, it is clear that the foam was bought in advance for a couple of meters of a copper seamless tube of different diameters, or maybe not copper, or maybe not seamless, or maybe not a single one, garbage is a question, the main thing is, what would be cheap, but there , we will customize it in place.
There is nothing, garbage is a question, the main thing is there are pipes, and the miraculous cold welding will fix everything + glue on top + scotch tape + wrap with wire + another layer of cold welding, for reliability, the stump is clear.
The fact that the shavings got into the tubes when you sawed it with a hacksaw. No hacksaw, gnawed with your teeth? you che, grunt on the knee and that's it, then they split the hole with a knife ... the same option, the main thing is more cold welding.
Drainage, drainage, drainage, um, there is a piece of hose from her grandmother's washing machine, which her grandfather gave her in honor of the anniversary of the Battle of Borodino.
In general, they lengthened the tracks, pushed them with tons of ore into the hole, and you thought, three layers of cold welding, glue, 2 rolls of scotch tape, a coil of 3kg wire weight, a hose, so it was raced like that, the hose was still forgotten, it was stuck in it all, Seems to have passed, there is no bias, HZ, the main thing has climbed through and thanks for that
We hung up the internal block ... somehow it is staggering, the garbage is a question, the welding has not frozen yet, with scotch tape on top of it, with scotch tape. WAH! What a beauty.
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4. Outdoor unit.
Necessary. Level, small hammer drill, small drill, attachment vn. block, bolts, keys.
And I must say, we live on the first floor, so there are no problems, just put him on the ground and his mother. Do not forget to put the grate.
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5. Connect the routes of the indoor unit with the outdoor unit and evacuate.
you need: monomer, compressor, flaring, keys.
There is nothing, garbage is a question, we take a vacuum cleaner, turn on the route at full power into the pipe, the hi sucks and creates a vacuum, oh, how.
And now quickly, the main thing is fast, until the vacuum has not come out, attach the routes to the external block, the garbage question, is it possible in 10 minutes it will come out ... who? yes, this vacuum is the same, whether it is not okay ... ... no, exactly, the vacuum, after all, doesn’t know how to walk.
Wiring, um, and what for they, Duc, for electricity, exactly, damn it, they almost forgot. There is also a diagram, something is not clear, but what is incomprehensible, screw it under the bolts, and that's all.
Hallelujah, all hooked up.
They crossed themselves…. He said let's go and waved his hand….
……………….
Buzzing ... ..
It is buzzing, it means it is working, but the cold will go, as I say, it will go.
After some time
Shl. So it was so races, they forgot to start up the refrigerant, they forgot to remove the tracks in the flexes.
They forgot something else, HZ what, but forgot something.
Bullshit question, call the office, let them come to change under a guarantee, a defective one got caught. Here after all ********, ***** they will vparyat all, and then to normal people suffer. Although they saved money on installation, it's not so offensive, so their races are so.
A curtain.

A guide for self-installation of a split system, FOR KETTLES, STEP BY STEP, IN FIVE DAYS AND YOU SENSEI is air conditioned.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation should start with choosing a place for installation. In fact, everything is not easy. It is necessary to consider:

So you have to solve a complex problem, trying to satisfy all the requirements and recommendations. Only in this case, the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands will be successful.

Let's start with the simplest: choosing a location for ease of use. The indoor unit must be placed so that the cooled air spreads throughout the room, but does not directly hit the bed, desk, chair. In principle, it is possible to redirect the flow using movable blinds, but it is much better to think about it first.

The most correct solution in this case is to place the air conditioner above the head of the bed, above or to the side of the table. In this case, the flow of cold air will "flow" around the place of rest or work, which is much more comfortable and less hazardous to health.

In addition, there are technical issues that must be foreseen before starting the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands. The indoor unit is connected to the outdoor unit using a copper pipe route and a control cable. The track connections are on the right (when looking at the unit from the front), but they can be bent so that they are on the left or below. These outlets are 30 cm long copper tubes.

Outputs from the outdoor unit of the split system (rear view)

The track is connected to them (by soldering or flaring), and the junction must be accessible for maintenance. Therefore, this section of the route is not hidden in the wall (in the gate), but covered with a decorative box. In this case, the track can be positioned in different ways - depending on which wall the indoor unit was hung on and where the outdoor unit is located in relation to it.

Block to the left of the outer wall

If the indoor block is located to the left of the outer wall, and the route goes straight, the minimum distance from the wall to the block is 500 mm (1 picture in the photo). It can be reduced to 100 mm if the track is wrapped on an adjacent wall, but its total length should not be less than 500 mm. If this is not possible, you can remove the bends on the left and lay the pipes in the groove (figure on the right). In this case, this is possible, since the junction of the leads and the route is obtained under the housing cover, so that it is accessible for repair and maintenance.

If cables, pipes, etc. cannot be pulled along the outer walls of the building. (so as not to spoil the appearance), you will have to lay the entire route indoors. A less expensive option is to hold it in the corner, covering it with special boxes. This arrangement is convenient, since then you can close the box with curtains.

The second option is more labor-intensive (it is more difficult for the strobe to be made), but from the aesthetic point of view, it is more advantageous - it is to transfer the output to the left side panel and put everything in the made recess.

On the wall to the right of the outside

This option can be called typical - it is a standard solution when choosing such a location. most often the route in the box is led directly into the wall, but if necessary, it can be lowered in the corner (also closed with the box).

If necessary, you can put it in a groove (the connection point is in the body). If the route cannot be drawn outside the building, it can be laid in a gutter indoors. The track may look like the last two photos in the previous chapter.

Where to identify the outdoor unit

In fact, it is not an easy task to choose a place for an outdoor unit. Not all buildings are allowed to place them on the walls. In this case, there are only two outputs: install the outdoor unit of the split system in a specially designated place - air conditioning. If there is no such room, only a balcony or loggia remains. In such buildings, they are usually glazed, therefore, the placement of the block does not affect the appearance.

But in this case, it is necessary to provide for a system for cooling the equipment and removing exhaust air. If the balcony is spacious enough, for the entire time of its operation, windows are opened for ventilation or by providing fresh air in some other way. The solution is simple and straightforward, but it leads to overheating of the equipment, and this is fraught with breakdowns and frequent replacement of the damaged outdoor unit.

Balcony mounting is sometimes the only way out

Installing fans for more active air exchange can correct the situation a little. It is correct to fence off a small room, make it effective ventilation, separate ventilation ducts for the removal and supply of air. Moreover, they must be separate. This is done with the help of air ducts, which are removed instead of part of the glazing. In general, in this case, installing an air conditioner with your own hands is a problematic task precisely in terms of ensuring normal operating conditions for the equipment.

On the balcony or loggia

If there are no prohibitions on the placement of foreign devices on the walls of the building, usually the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is hung on the balcony railing (side or frontal) or on the wall, but so that it can be reached for maintenance - wash, clean, check, repair.

If the balcony is glazed, there should be an opening sash above it. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to service it. To protect against precipitation and objects that may fall out of the window, a visor is placed over the block. The choice of materials is something similar to a balcony trim or a white plastic visor, but only corpulent. It is better not to use hollow and metal (including corrugated board and metal roofing), since during rain they turn into a drum, and during hail they can generally deafen.

If the block is placed on a loggia, of all the above options, only the one in the picture on the right remains. it is inconvenient to place it next to the wall, except under the window, but this already refers to another section.

Another point: how to route the track - on the ceiling or on the floor? You will have to gouge in either case, but in the case of the floor, you may be making it from boards, then the pipes and cables connecting the outdoor and indoor units can be laid over the surface, but better - in a box.

Under or next to a window

In those rooms where there is no balcony or loggia, the outer part of the split system is hung on the outside wall. It is more convenient if it is located under the window or to the side of it. Moreover, under or next to the opening part. In this case, service is possible without calling a climber.

When installing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner with your own hands on the wall next to the window, consider the height of its installation. You can position the top surface of the block flush with the top edge of the window. In this case, leaning out of the window and insured, it will be possible to carry out work standing on the windowsill. The second option is to align the lower edge with the lower edge of the window opening. Here you can lie on your stomach on the windowsill, but you will not be able to reach the outlet of the pipes. That is, you still have to call industrial climbers.

What is required to install an air conditioner with your own hands

Those who install and connect the split systems professionally take about three hours to work on average. The cost of this service is considerable, and it is explained by the need to use expensive equipment. Good devices really cost a lot, but many of them can be replaced with simpler ones or rented. The only thing that will be difficult to find is a vacuum pump. This is really expensive specialized equipment, but there is technology to do without it. This is exactly what some installers do, who simply do not have such equipment - they simply bleed off some of the freon, cleaning the pipes. This method can be used for self-installation of a split system.

Necessary equipment and what can be used to replace it

What is necessary for a successful DIY installation of an air conditioner? First of all, you will need a certain set of tools. With their help, things will go faster. But if there is no special toolkit, it can be replaced with simpler devices. It will take longer to work with them, but if you try, this will not affect the quality. So, what is needed to install a split system:

• Powerful hammer drill. A through hole must be made in the outer wall of a house or building through which copper pipes and cables connecting the indoor and outdoor units are led out. Also, through this hole, a drainage tube is brought out to drain condensate and excess moisture when the humidity is normalized. A hammer drill is not such a rarity, the only thing that can cause difficulties is the selection of the right nozzles. But this is already a matter of technology.
• A pipe cutter with a sharp blade. Split system blocks are interconnected with copper pipes. They are sold in bays, so they will have to be cut into pieces of the required length. If the pipe cutter blade is dull, the pipe edges will wrinkle or be jagged or jagged. This will have to be corrected with a file and a rimmer (special deburring device). The pipe cutter can be replaced with a hacksaw with a metal blade, and the edges can be leveled and deburred with a file (file), finally processing the edge to smoothness with sandpaper. Only when working, make sure that the hole to be machined is directed downward. This will prevent copper dust from getting inside the pipe (it can damage the inside of the air conditioner, so this is very important).
• Pipe bender or spring. To give the copper pipes the desired shape.
• Drill with drills of different diameters. It is needed in order to make holes for the mounting plate of the indoor unit and corners for installing the outdoor one.
• Flare tool and calibrator for copper pipes. This device is, of course, specific, but it costs little.
• Wall chaser. When laying a route in a groove (groove in the wall), this device significantly speeds up and simplifies the work. But you can get by with a regular chisel and a hammer / sledgehammer.

Well, as they said before, a vacuum pump is needed for a high-quality start of the system. There is nothing to replace it with, the only possibility is to release part of the freon on routes up to 6 meters long ("zilch" method).

In addition, you will need screwdrivers, hex keys, a level, a hammer, perhaps some other tools, but they are usually available on the farm or they are not difficult to find.

Materials and consumables

In addition to the tools for installing the air conditioner with your own hands, you will need a certain amount of materials. Many of them are indispensable.

As you can see, installing an air conditioner with your own hands requires serious preparation. You need not only a special tool, but also specific materials.

Installation of blocks

If you want to do everything right, do-it-yourself air conditioner installation should begin with a careful study of the instructions. Most of them are similar, but allowances, requirements for cable cross-section, route length, etc. may differ. Another plus from reading the manual is that you will definitely imagine in what order to perform the work. In general, here's what to do:

This completes the first stage of self-assembly of the air conditioner. Then we will lay the route.

Connecting blocks

The outdoor and indoor units of the split system are connected by two copper pipes and a cable. A drainage tube is also led out. All these communications can be laid on top of the wall, and then they fit into a special box. The second option is in the groove and then you need to make a groove that will connect the two blocks. But first of all, you need to drill a hole in the wall. This is done after the block fasteners have been installed. And only after that do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner continues.

When stacked in a plastic box, all communications are tied into one bundle. This can be done with screeds, but more often they are wound with metallized tape - in order to further reduce the transfer of heat from copper pipes.

Connecting copper pipes

We have already connected the cable earlier, and the installation of the air conditioner with our own hands is being completed by connecting copper pipes, drainage. Drainage is easier. There is an outlet at the bottom of the indoor unit, so we insert a hose or pipe there. The junction can be additionally sealed using plumbing fum tape. You can also use silicone sealant for sealing.

Next, we connect the copper pipes. We start at the indoor unit. There are two ports on the side wall - one with larger diameter fittings, the other with smaller ones. Which one to start with is not important. The procedure is as follows:

Actually, everything is already connected, but you still need to vacuum or simply remove moisture and air from the working parts of the air conditioner.

Evacuation

Why carry out this procedure? During installation, air has entered the system, and argon residues are also contained there. This mixture must be removed, otherwise it will significantly reduce the working life of the equipment. Naturally, it is better if you have special equipment. But, in extreme cases, you can do without it.

With a vacuum pump

If there is a vacuum pump, everything is somewhat simpler. Two pressure gauges (low and high pressure) usually come with it; they can be used to track the pressure drop in the system, that is, to identify leaks. The vacuum pump is connected to the outlet on the external block with a spool (filling port), it turns on for 15-20 minutes. During this time, it removes the remaining air and nitrogen from the system.

After this time, the pump is turned off, but not disconnected, but left connected for another 20-30 minutes. All this time it is necessary to observe the readings of the manometers. If they have changed, there is a leak in the system. Most likely - this is the place where copper pipes are connected and they need to be repaired. If the readings of the pressure gauges are stable, without turning off the pump, fully open the valve located below. Freon begins to come out of the block, filling the system (noise is heard). We put on gloves and quickly unscrew the vacuum pump hose (freon can damage the skin). After disconnecting the equipment, open the valve on the track at the top (outlets with a smaller diameter). Now the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is over. You can turn it on.

Without vacuum pump

If the length of the route is up to 5 meters, the installation of the air conditioner can be carried out without a vacuum pump. To clean the equipment, you will have to release a certain amount of freon, but there is no other way. The procedure is as follows:

And in this case, the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is completed and the equipment is ready to work. But in this case, the tightness of the system has not been verified by anything and the freon can slowly evaporate, and there is still some air and argon left in the system. In general, the solution is not perfect.