How to fill the floors in the house on the ground. Concrete floor on the ground in a private house: the device of a concrete floor, general requirements and step-by-step instructions on how to do it yourself

The concrete floor in a private house has become recent times very popular, replacing the traditional wooden base... If the owner of the mansion does not want to part with the plank floor, but he wants to make it more reliable and durable, then a concrete screed will also become a good basis for it. Concrete floors are suitable both in a stone house and in a wooden one, and the technology of their construction, in principle, does not differ much.

Sometimes concrete base they are poured immediately after the foundation has solidified, and only then the walls are erected. Of course, for this you need to inquire about the weather several days in advance, so that the money and work invested in the materials are not in vain. Precipitation is not terrible for the flooded surface already on third fourth day - for this period and you need to be sure that it will not rain.

In any case, whenever a floor is made, it must meet some basic requirements:

Durability and reliability;

Perfect evenness;

Good waterproofing;

High thermal insulation qualities are desirable.

In order for these requirements to be met, the process technology must be strictly followed.

• If the floors are arranged on the ground, then it must be well tamped. If the subfloor or soil inside the foundation is not deep enough, and there is too little space for all the layers of the screed "pie", it must be selected.

The soil is loosened to the required depth and its excess is removed. The surface is then compacted with a rammer.

• Next, sand is poured - its layer should be at least 10 cm.If the soil is heaving and prone to freezing, then sand pillow need to be increased in thickness up to 20 cm.

The sand must also be compacted well. If the pillow is planned to be very thick, then it is tamped in layers every 10 cm, pouring water, that is. having poured the first part of the layer, it is compacted, and only then its upper part is poured, and all the same manipulations are carried out with it.

• The next layer consists of crushed stone or gravel, on top of which, after tamping, you can fill insulation layer expanded clay.
• Further, it is recommended to fill in the rough screed from a coarse mortar, which is made from gravel and cement. It is laid in a layer of about 8 ÷ 10 cm. It is advisable to immediately perform reinforcement with a metal mesh from a rod of Ø 5 mm with a cell size of 100 or 150 mm.

If the walls of the house have not yet been erected and the screed is installed in the raised foundation, then the waterproofing will be installed after the structure has walls and a roof. If the screed is already erected structure, then the waterproofing is laid directly on the gravel, and expanded clay is poured on top of it and reinforcement is laid.

Each action should be reviewed in order.

Waterproofing works

Waterproofing is carried out different ways, and the choice of a specific technique directly depends on the characteristics of the room, as well as on the stage of work.

For example, if the walls of the house are being erected at a time when the rough screed has already been poured, then any waterproofing material can be used, especially if it is planned to install additional insulation from above or one of the underfloor heating systems.

If preparatory work and the screed itself is carried out on the ground in an already built house, then only the gluing (sealing) version of waterproofing will do. Roll material in this case, it is laid on the backfill of insulation or crushed stone.

So, internal waterproofing may be:

• Wrapping waterproofing

This type is the most popular of all existing today. The insulating layer is made of a waterproof material, such as a thick plastic film, roofing felt, "waterproofing", etc.

The material is laid on the surface prepared for the screed.

The sheets are overlapped by 100 ÷ 150 mm, they are glued together with a special waterproof tape or fusion, since the waterproofing layer must be absolutely tight.

The material must be lifted onto the walls by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm and fixed. Particular attention is paid to the corners.

An approximate diagram of a waterproofing layer with an installed damper tape

Along the perimeter of the room, on top waterproofing material, a damper tape is installed, which will serve as a compensator for thermal expansion of concrete in the screed.

• Plaster waterproofing

This type of material is applied to floors and lower part walls with a spatula. Especially carefully it is necessary to coat the joints. Such waterproofing is applied to the finished concrete base and plastered walls, but it is not recommended to use it in wooden buildings.

• Painting waterproofing

The paint waterproofing compounds have a thick consistency oil paint and applied with a brush or roller in several layers. These can be special modern composites or familiar to everyone. bituminous mastic... Such material, just like the previous one, is only suitable for finished screed and plastered walls.

• Cast waterproofing

A room waterproofed with "liquid rubber"

This type includes viscous compounds that are applied to plastered walls and poured floors using a roller or spraying, and, after drying, form an elastic film on the surface. Most common the type of cast waterproofing is liquid rubber or other formulations based on it. It is a reliable and durable type of waterproofing, it can be used in residential areas of a private house, but it is ideal for garages and basements. Rubber is applied to finished concrete surfaces.

• Penetrating waterproofing

Penetrating waterproofing compounds do not just protect the surface of the floor and walls from the outside - they are able to penetrate deep into cement screed to a considerable depth if they are applied in 2-4 layers.

Penetrating waterproofing compounds reliably "seal" the pores and cracks of the concrete screed

The solution is distributed with a roller and, getting into the pores of the cement, it crystallizes there, preventing moisture from the outside to penetrate into the screed, and therefore into the room.

The compositions are applied only to ready-made screeds, therefore, for other types waterproofing works they don't fit.

• Backfill waterproofing

Washed sand is used as a backfill waterproofing. It, as mentioned above, is used in preparation for the screed, pouring it onto the ground and compacting it well. Such waterproofing is not suitable for a ready-made rough screed, as it should be arranged under it.

Reinforcement and placement of beacons

• Reinforce finishing screed a net made of thick wire or reinforcement - the stores offer a fairly wide range of finished products of this plan. Laying it takes place on a rough screed, if waterproofing has already been provided earlier. The mesh is laid on the surface, and its individual sections are fastened together by welding or wire twisting.
• If it is decided to lay reinforcing mesh for waterproofing made of polyethylene film, then you need to choose a material with a fine mesh, mesh size 5 × 5 cm, made not from coarse reinforcement, but from an average wire thickness. This is necessary in order not to damage the waterproofing layer, which must necessarily maintain its integrity and tightness.

• Another option is to lay the reinforcement on top of the expanded clay insulation. It is often poured onto the waterproofing membrane in a small layer to avoid damage.
• Having laid the fittings, proceed to the beacons. This is very important elements in the device of a high-quality and even floor, therefore they are carefully calibrated to the level. Beacons, after exposure, can be fixed with thick concrete mortar. Sometimes they practice welding beacons - guides to an already laid and fixed reinforcing belt.
• Adjust the beacons to the desired height by placing bricks, metal or ceramic plates. You cannot use material that becomes unusable from water, since over time, for example, wood or plywood will turn into dust and the beacon will sag, which means that a failure in the screed is guaranteed.
• For beacons, flat reinforcing bars, wide guides (galvanized metal profiles) or special T-shaped steel plaster profiles are used.

• Beacons are installed at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other less than the length of the rule, since it must walk along them without slipping.

When the concrete under the beacons hardens, ensuring the complete immobility of the guides, you can start mixing concrete and pouring.

Solution composition

The "recipe" for a concrete screed solution for pouring a floor is familiar to everyone who has ever been involved in construction. It needs cement and seeded sand, which are mixed with each other in proportions of 1: 3. In addition to these main ingredients of the solution, foam crumbs or special plasticizing additives can be added to it, which accelerate the drying of the material. Good performance strength will be given by a screed, in the composition of which fiber fibers are introduced.

In addition, in order not to mess with kneading and witchcraft over the exact proportions, the screed solution can be purchased at finished form- it can be dry building mixture or ready-mixed concrete.

The mixture can be purchased at a hardware store by selecting the most optimal for a specific room and for the required thickness of the pouring composition. It will not be difficult to mix it at the place of work - the preparation method is always detailed on the packaging, and you can use it construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment.

Ready-made concrete of the required quality is ordered from a specialized company, indicating what composition is necessary for the screed and what consistency it should be. This option is usually used when the walls have not yet been erected, and the screed is arranged inside the finished strip foundation... The cement truck brings and gradually pours ready-made concrete onto the prepared base - all that remains is to quickly evenly distribute and level it.

Screed device

No matter how the solution is prepared or purchased, it is poured into the area prepared for work with a thickness slightly higher than the beacons. Further, as a rule, without pressing it strongly against the beacons, they lead, leveling the surface. Then add concrete and continue leveling. If the screed is required to be very thick, then it is recommended to pierce the laid out and pre-distributed solution bayonet shovel- this will avoid accidental air pockets.

Strength gain takes place within three – four weeks, after which you can continue to work on the floors - pour the finishing self-leveling coating, mount battens for insulation, logs, arrange a "warm floor", cover the screed with plywood, lay laminate or tiles, etc.

Usually the screed is set already for 2 - 3 days, depending on how thick it is. During this period, while it has just started to solidify, it can be processed with a trowel, which is called a "helicopter". Having made such a grout, you can not only get a perfectly flat floor, but also significantly strengthen it by using a special mixture for this.

Video: an example of a screed device in a private house on the ground

Strengthening the concrete screed with topping

For the special strength of the surface of the concrete coating, it is strengthened with a mixture called topping... It consists of a cement powder mixed with corundum, quartz or metal. For residential premises, quartz additives are usually chosen, and metal or corundum is used in premises where the strength of the floors is expected to withstand high loads, for example, in a garage.

• The topping is scattered over the still wet surface of the concrete screed and left until the cement milk released on the surface saturates it - this will take from 20 minutes to half an hour.
• Next, using a "helicopter" rub the wet powder into the screed. This process takes about an hour.

Strengthening of a concrete screed by topping using a "helicopter"

• Grinding can take place in several approaches, as long as you won't get the desired surface view. The sanded surface on top can then be coated protective layer clear polyurethane varnish.
• If you want the floor surface to have a certain shade, you can use toppings, which include coloring pigments. In addition, the top layer of the screed is often poured with a layer of concrete interspersed with marble or granite chips - after topping and grinding, the surface takes on a very beautiful view polished stone.

These floors are great for halls or hallways as they are easy to clean and do not absorb dust.

Self-leveling floor

Another way to bring the surface of the poured screed into an ideal look is self-leveling floors. They come in several types, and can be arranged with a thickness of both a few millimeters and up to 4 - 5 centimeters.

There are compositions that are designed only to level the surface of an uneven screed, they are called self-leveling... Mixtures for making a solution are sold ready-made, they only need to be properly diluted with water and mixed until a homogeneous suspension.

Then it is poured onto the surface in puddles or stripes and spread with a squeegee. After that, a needle roller is used, expelling excess air from the solution, which, when the leveling screed hardens, can form cavities inside it, leading to a decrease in strength properties.

Another type of self-leveling floors can be a decorative version of the coating, which consists of polymer compounds.

The surface, filled with composite polymer compounds, can be monochromatic or have a two- or even three-dimensional pattern. They are poured in several stages. A film with a pattern can be laid between the layers, or various small objects (chips) - these can be coins, beautiful small pebbles or other elements that correspond to the design of the room

Such floors not only level and decorate the surface, but also perfectly protect the room from moisture, as they are good waterproofing... Therefore, they are often made in bathrooms. 3D drawing visually enlarges the room and creates a special atmosphere.

If the surface is not decorative, but simply leveled, with the expectation of further work above it, then it can be insulated with various thermal insulating materials, which can have a thickness from a few millimeters to 10 ÷ 15 cm. The insulation can be laid between the logs or even just under the finishing decorative surface.

The main thing is that a concrete screed can be a reliable base and last for many years without repair or replacement. Therefore, it is worthwhile to try hard and make an effort once to create a high-quality and durable base for any decorative coating.

Underground floors, under certain building conditions, can be a more economical and more reliable option than other types of floors. What are these conditions? Obviously, dense layers of soil without organic matter, which would serve as the base of the floors, must be at an acceptable depth in order to backfilling was not too thick. The height of the layer of bulk soil (sand, crushed stone, as well as sandy loam and loam with a low standing of groundwater) should not exceed 0.6 meters, since a large embankment will give too much large shrinkage during operation. If there are suitable geological conditions, it remains to make such a floor structure so that it reliably protects the living space of the house from damp and cold. First, we will consider the most economical option for flooring on the ground for a private house.

An economical option without a layer of insulation

It is recommended to combine the execution of any floors on the ground with external insulation of the wall, basement and foundation at least 1 meter below the floor level. This eliminates the freezing of the foundation as well as a significant bridge of cold from the building through the floors, soil and further to the basement-foundation and outside air.

The norms require a slightly different version of insulation - laying the insulation under the base of the floors along the walls in a strip 0.8 meters wide, while the heat transfer resistance of this insulation should be no lower than that of the walls. Those. the cold bridge is removed through the floors on the ground to the foundation.

Thus, the vertical thermal insulation of the foundation and the basement along the perimeter of the house makes the soil layer under the floor insulated from the street. The upper layers of the soil under the floor will be heated by the heat from the house, while the heat loss through the floor should not exceed the requirements of the standards. Of course, such floors cannot be called warm. Nevertheless, the structure has the right to exist without a special layer of insulation under the entire surface of the floors.

The figure shows a typical construction of joining simple floors along the ground and a wall with a foundation.
Here 2 is an unbreakable waterproofing.
3 - foundation and plinth.
4-5 - plaster layer.
6 - blind area.
9 - floor on the ground.

Heat assimilation of floors should not exceed the requirements of the standard - no more than 12 W / m2 * deg for residential premises. In other words, the rate of heat intake by the floor, for example from a person's foot, should not be too high so that the floor does not seem "icy". Therefore, materials with low thermal conductivity should be used for the flooring and screed in this structure. It is recommended to use wooden parquet, carpet, thick linoleum.

The screed is carried out in an economical version - a dry screed on a leveling layer of sand. A double gypsum fiber sheet is used. It is advisable to use expanded clay sand for such floors, in which the thermal conductivity coefficient is lower, which will only reduce the heat assimilation of the floor.

How simple floors are made on the ground

In general, the creation of economical floors on the ground is carried out as follows.

• Backfilling is done with soil, then with coarse crushed stone. Each layer and crushed stone must be carefully tamped mechanically. Crushed stone is needed to create the required compaction density.
• Concrete preparation of the base of the floors is done - a layer of concrete from 6 cm, concrete of class B22.5. Before pouring the concrete, a polyethylene film is placed on the ground so that the ground does not instantly take water from the concrete.
• Waterproofing is laid - the membrane overlaps, wraps around the walls, forms an unbreakable hydro-vapor barrier with horizontal waterproofing of the foundation. The quality of this insulation is controlled first.
• Fill in a leveling layer of sand (perlite, expanded clay) with a thickness of 50 - 100 mm, but no more.

The diagram indicates:
1,2,3 - floor covering.
4.5 - dry screed.
6 - leveling sand bed.
7, 8,9,10 - pipeline in a metal casing fixed with dowels.
11 - membrane waterproofing.
12 - concrete base
13 - compacted soil

• The prefabricated dry screed is laid. - read more.
• The screed is putty, the floor covering is laid on it. The screed is made floating, along the perimeter it is separated from the wall with an edging tape in a gap of 10 mm.

It turns out to be a fairly simple but reliable floor that can be made in a private house and with your own hands.

A distinctive advantage of floors on the ground is that they do not require maintenance during operation, control of their condition, such as floors with a ventilated subfloor.

Version with solid concrete screed

These floors are distinguished by the fact that they make a solid reinforced concrete screed with a thickness of 5 cm. It can be made in two versions:


• without heating, on a layer of insulation, extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 7 cm or more (it is recommended at least to reduce the total heat loss at home and reduce the heat assimilation (coldness) of floors);
• heated by a water pipeline, while the thickness of the specified insulation is recommended at least 12 cm, since the temperature difference increases. In addition, the heated screed must be made with the addition of plasticizers and fiber and broken into smaller fragments than a cold screed.

Additionally, you can read - overview article -




The figure shows the layers and construction of floors on the ground with a concrete screed.
1 - soil.
2 - bulk soil layers.
3 - a layer of sand and gravel.
4 - concrete leveling layer.
5 - unbreakable waterproofing.
6 - EPS insulation.
7 - reinforced cement-sand screed.

Creation of a base with a strong screed




Building rules

It is important to follow these rules when building floors on the ground.


• Layer levels are set, filling and laying are performed, observing the horizontal, guided by beacons ...
• To place cables and pipelines under the floor in a sand bed, a metal box can be equipped, in which the communication will be located.
• A seam is left between the walls and the concrete base of the floors, which is filled with a non-drying sealant. All technological openings at the floor level for all communications are also sealed.
• If you plan to install lightweight partitions (not requiring a foundation), then they can be based directly on the concrete base. In this case, the base in this place and the interface unit must be reinforced according to known technologies.
• When performing work, be sure to control the quality of each layer, since it will be hidden by the next and it will be impossible to eliminate the shortcomings. Establish layer control and acceptance at the construction site.

The general procedure for conducting work is as follows - first, a heat-insulated foundation is erected, its foundation pit is filled up, then soil, crushed stone is backfilled, and rammed. The concrete base is laid. Next, waterproofing is laid - over the foundation (horizontal waterproofing of the foundation) and over concrete preparation floors, forming a continuous covering.

Usually, floors on the ground are made in conjunction with shallow foundations. To this topic -

How to pour a concrete floor in a private house?

In the process of erecting an individual building, as well as when repairing their own house, the owners solve many problems. The set of questions is not limited to the selection of materials from which the walls of the building will be built, the definition of the construction technology, as well as the choice of internal and exterior decoration... A serious task is to build a reliable concrete floor in a private house on your own. You need to know what the thickness of the layer of the concrete screed to be poured should be, as well as how the mesh is laid to ensure the strength and durability of the floor base.

Concrete floor in a private house - requirements for arranging the base

Do-it-yourself floor pouring in a private house is a simple and affordable operation that does not require the involvement of professional builders.

Before starting construction activities, a number of works should be performed:

• study the characteristics of the soil. Dry and stable soil, not prone to mobility as a result of frost heaving - the optimal type of soil for building a concrete floor in a house;
• determine the depth of the groundwater. When the aquifers are located at a level of more than 5 meters from the zero mark, the absence of cracks in the concrete mass is guaranteed.

Work on the construction of a concrete floor surface should be carried out at a positive temperature inside the room. It is impractical to form a concrete floor on frozen soil, since there is a possibility of violating the integrity of the structure, as well as deforming it.

Concrete flooring - perfect solution for an industrial building, workshop, garage, workshop, first floor of a private house

Advantages and Weaknesses

Having made the decision to form a concrete floor surface in a private house, carefully study positive sides and analyze the flaws of the concrete structure. Let's start with the advantages of a concrete floor.

Main pluses:

• increased strength characteristics. The concrete floor base is capable of withstanding significant loads;
• increased service life. Properly prepared and laid concrete is durable and can last for more than one decade;
• reliable protection of the room from the cold. A layer of concrete laid on the first floor of the building will prevent freezing of the dwelling;
• thermal insulation properties. Due to the use of insulation and the increased thickness of the screed, heat losses are reduced;
• versatility. It is easy to install any coverings on a planned surface of a concrete floor: linoleum, ceramic tiles, parquet;
• resistance to the development of microorganisms. Mold and mildew do not form on the surface and inside the concrete mass.

Along with the advantages, there are certain disadvantages:

• increased weight. When constructing a floor over slabs, you should use strong beams made of a metal profile and place the beam supports with a small interval;
• high costs. For the construction of a concrete base, you should purchase ingredients for preparing a mixture or ready-made concrete, as well as make or buy a reinforcing mesh yourself;
• problematic dismantling. The increased strength of the concrete floor, reinforced with steel reinforcement, makes it difficult to dismantle it during repair work;
• the duration of the process of constructing a concrete floor. After the completion of concreting, the operational strength manifests itself for four weeks.

Despite a number of disadvantages, most developers prefer reinforced concrete floors.

You can pour a concrete floor in a private house only if the groundwater level is low - less than two meters from the surface

Equipment and tools required for self-pouring the floor

Before starting concrete work, prepare the equipment, as well as the necessary tools:

• concrete mixer, which makes it easier to mix the mortar;
• a capacious tub for hand kneading;
• shovels;
• buckets for dosing components and carrying concrete mix;
• tamping device to help compact the soil and damping pad;
• building level for marking;
• rule and trowel;
• needle roller for removing air pockets;
• construction wheelbarrow for transportation of bulk building materials.

You will also need a steel brush to clean the concrete after setting. When concreting the floor surface large area it is advisable to order ready-made concrete, and not to engage in independent mixing. This will shorten the construction time.

Concrete floor construction: sequence of operations

Pouring the concrete floor in a private house is performed after the walls have been erected and the roof has been installed.

The construction of a concrete floor is carried out on the ground surface and provides for the following operations:

Concrete is often used as a floor material in a private house, due to its positive qualities

1. Marking the level of the concrete floor.
2. Preparation and compaction of the soil surface.
3. Formation of a damping cushion from sand and gravel.
4. Waterproofing works and installation of thermal insulation.
5. Knitting reinforcement cage to strengthen the concrete mass.
6. Formwork assembly and reinforcement mesh installation.
7. Placement and fixation of beacons.
8. Pouring into formwork with a reinforcing grid concrete mortar.
9. Compaction and leveling of the concrete surface.

It is important to periodically moisten the concrete to hydrate it.

Marking for floor concreting

The concrete floor in the house is built on a previously prepared and planned surface. It is necessary to clean the soil from construction waste, remove vegetation and stones. After preparing the base, the markup is performed zero level corresponding to the location of the lower plane of the doorway.

Sequencing:

1. Mark one meter vertically above your intended floor level.
2. Draw a horizontal line from the resulting mark along the perimeter of the walls.
3. Step 1 m down from the line and mark at different points in the room.
4. Connect the marks on the lower level with a straight line.

The resulting line corresponds to the level of the future concrete floor. To facilitate orientation when pouring, a rope stretched between the nails driven in at the level of the mark will allow.

Chernozem must be selected, reaching a denser layer

Preparing the surface and compacting the soil for pouring concrete floor

Concrete foundations in private buildings are built after clearing the soil and compaction of its surface.

In the process of construction and arrangement basements, garages, various outbuildings, and sometimes even residential premises (of course, in regions with a warm mild climate), developers often prefer technology that involves the construction of a concrete floor on the ground.

After reviewing the information below, you will receive all the necessary information to independently conduct the event in question, refusing to involve third-party masters in this work and significantly saving on floor construction.

Before giving preference to the device technology of the design in question, familiarize yourself with the key soil requirements given in the following table.

Table. Soil requirements for a reliable concrete floor

Additionally, requirements are imposed directly on the building itself. It is important that the house is used for permanent residence or at least heated during cold weather. Otherwise, the ground will freeze, causing the concrete structure to deform.

Floor plan on the ground for a private house, garage, utility room

Concrete flooring technology on the ground

We make the floor after the completion of the construction of the walls and the arrangement of the roof / floor. Direct work on the construction of the considered structure on the ground consists of several technological stages, the sequence of which is given below.

First step. Marking the floor level

First, we need to set the level of the future floor to zero. To do this, do the following:

Second phase. We clear and compact the soil

We pass to the stage of preliminary soil preparation. First, we need to get rid of construction waste, if any. Next, we remove the top ball of soil. Traditionally, a multi-layer construction of a concrete floor has a thickness of about 30-35 cm. We dig until the distance between the previously laid zero line and the bottom of the excavation reaches the specified value.

After that, we need to tamp and level the surface. Best tool for this work - a special vibrating plate for soil compaction. In the absence of such, we take a simple log, nail strong handles on top of it, nail a board from below and use the resulting device to compact the soil. We work until we get a fairly dense and even base. No special checks are required: it is enough to walk on the ground and, if there are no indentations from the legs in it, we proceed to the next stage of work.

Hand digging is never perfectly accurate. If the depth of the pit turns out to be greater than the required thickness of the future concrete structure, fill the difference with a layer of sand and carefully compact it.

Helpful advice! You can use another solution to the above problem by first laying a layer of clay, spilling it with water, tamping it, filling it with sand and additionally compacting it. Such a system will provide additional waterproofing of the future concrete structure, preventing groundwater penetrate into its structure.

Stage three. Making backfill

Fill in a 5-10 cm layer of gravel. Spill the backfill with water and tamp it thoroughly. For greater convenience, we can pre-drive several rows of scraps of reinforcement or other similar material of the required length into the ground - this way it will be easier for us to ensure the required backfill height. It is important that the clippings are exactly level. After arranging each planned layer, the pegs can be removed.

Pour a 10 cm layer of sand on top of the gravel. The pegs from the previous stage will help us to control the thickness of the backfill. To perform this event, it is not necessary to use sifted material - even ravine sand with minor impurities is suitable. We also compact the sand thoroughly.

Cover the sand with a layer of gravel. Optimally suitable material fractions 4-5 cm. Compaction of crushed stone. Pour a thin layer of sand on top, carefully level it and compact it thoroughly. If gravel with sharply protruding edges is found, remove it or shift it so that sharp corners were absent throughout the plane.

Important! Each layer of backfill must be leveled. Similar requirements are imposed on the layers of the "pie" that are further developed.

Stage four. We install moisture and heat insulation materials

To protect concrete from the harmful effects of moisture, we use a special waterproofing membrane or ordinary polyethylene film. A material with a thickness of 200 microns is optimal. The work is carried out in an extremely simple sequence: we lay out the film along the base, bringing its edges a couple of centimeters above the zero level indicated in the previous stages, directly lay the insulation sheets with a 10-15 centimeter overlap, and fix the joints with adhesive tape.

The structure can be insulated using a wide variety of materials, here is just a short list:

• expanded clay;
• mineral wool slabs;
• Styrofoam;
• roll isolon, etc.

We lay the selected material, following the provisions of the appropriate technology, and proceed to further work.

Fifth stage. We equip the reinforcing layer

A multi-layer concrete structure is subject to mandatory reinforcement. We reinforce the floor with PVC or metal mesh of your choice. Also, metal wire and reinforcement rods are well suited for solving this problem. They must first be tied into a mesh (we choose the size of the cells in accordance with the expected loads: for high ones we take 10x10 cm, for medium ones - 15x15 cm, for low ones it will be enough 20x20 cm), using flexible steel wire to fasten the joints.

We lay the reinforcing frame on a preliminary installed stands having a height of about 20-30 mm.

Important note! In the case of hardening with the use of plastic mesh, the material is stretched on pegs pre-driven into the base.

Sixth stage. We install guides and formwork

Correct pouring of concrete mixture at the zero level is impossible without the use of guides. We do the following:

Important! Before proceeding with the further stage of work, be sure to check the correct installation of the guides and formwork using a level. If there are differences, you simply cannot make an even floor. To eliminate irregularities, it is enough to trim the protruding places. You can raise the guides in the right places by placing bars under them suitable size or the same plywood.

Before pouring, be sure to process wooden elements special oil. Thanks to this, in the future we will be able to get the boards out of the mortar without any difficulty.

Seventh stage. Pour concrete and make a screed

Fill the previously created "maps" with concrete. If possible, we try to fill the entire mass in 1 time - this way we will get the most durable monolithic structure... If there is no possibility or desire to order ready-made concrete, we do it ourselves.

Pouring concrete over lighthouses (option without maps)

To do this, we need a concrete mixer or a large suitable container for manual mixing, cement (we use material of grades M400-500), a shovel, gravel, sand. We work according to the following recipe: 1 portion of cement, 2 portions of sand, 4 portions of crushed stone and about 0.5 portions of water (it can change, we orient ourselves in the process of work). Thoroughly mix the ingredients until a homogeneous mixture and proceed to further work.

It is most convenient to pour from the corner opposite to front door- in this case, you do not have to walk on concrete. Fill several cards in 1, maximum 2 doses, level the solution and stretch the mixture. If we have a special vibrator, we use it to compact the mixture.

Formwork around pipelines

Having filled in a few "cards", we proceed to leveling the base. A two-meter (possibly longer) rule will help us with this. Place the tool on the previously mounted guides and pull it towards you. This is how we get rid of excess concrete.

We take out the guides and formwork from the processed "cards" (specialists usually do this a day after pouring, some - earlier, we are guided by the situation). In a similar sequence, pour concrete over the entire area. After that we cover the base. plastic wrap and leave to gain strength for a month. Drying process concrete structure need to be regularly moistened with water so that it does not crack.

In conclusion, it remains for us to fill in the screed. For this we use a special self-leveling mixture - the most convenient option, the arrangement of which does not require special knowledge and effort.

The leveling compound will eliminate minor imperfections in the surface and allow you to get a perfectly flat base. We traditionally start working from the corner opposite to the entrance to the room.

Prepare the solution according to the manufacturer's instructions, pour it onto the floor and distribute it evenly over the surface using a long rule or other suitable tool. We specify the drying time of the mixture in the instructions, usually it is 2-3 days.

The concrete floor is ready on the ground. We just have to install the chosen floor covering. Thanks to a properly equipped flat base, the finish will look beautiful and will last as long as possible.

Now you know everything about the construction of a concrete floor on the ground and will be able to independently perform the necessary measures. You just need to follow the guide and everything will definitely work out.

Happy work!

Video - Arrangement of a concrete floor on the ground

Private house- this is the place where the owners strive to create their own personal nest. Here everything will be done with your own hands, with love. Therefore, the choice of materials for the floor should be approached responsibly.

Pouring concrete floors is ideal for rough coating... But in order for the concrete coating to serve for a long time, you need to know the technology of casting. This is what this article will be about.

Design features

The concrete pavement has a long service life. Recently, the owners of private houses are increasingly installing just such a floor. It can also be poured in a bath, sauna. This is due to the large number of its benefits. Below is a list of all the advantages of concrete pouring:

1. Withstands high loads;
2. Subject to all the rules of concreting, the floor will last for several decades;
3. Good thermal insulation performance - heat output from the room is reduced to zero with the maximum thickness of the screed and the optimal layer of insulation;
4. Any covering (tiles, parquet board, laminate, etc.);
5. Can be combined with underfloor heating;
6. There is no risk of mold and mildew.

With a sufficiently large number of advantages, a concrete coating also has disadvantages:

1. Large weight - if the concrete floor is laid on the floors, then they must have increased strength in order to cope with the load;
2. The work requires a certain skill, so it would be better for a specialist to do the screed.
3. High material cost;
4. It takes several weeks for the concrete floor to dry completely.

Nevertheless, it is worth considering that the concrete floor is the most the best option for the floor in a private house.

Tools and materials

Before you start pouring a concrete floor, you need to know what tools will be needed in the process of work:

• Concrete mixer. It is necessary in order to prepare a high-quality and homogeneous solution. Of course, if the volume of work is small, then you can cope without it. But the presence of this device guarantees a homogeneous, well-mixed solution. Accordingly, the coating after pouring will delight with its appearance and quality.
• Shovel. Without her, nowhere. This tool will come in handy at the preparation stage - leveling sand and soil, excavation of a pit under the floor on the first floor. It is needed to move all bulk materials, as well as loading concrete mortar.
• Various containers(buckets, containers). Necessary for the transfer of concrete, as well as for its storage. Ideal option will be metal molds... They will not be used in the future and they can simply be disposed of, because the concrete solution cannot always be washed off.

• Rammer- soil compactor to create a durable cushion for the concrete pavement. Well compacted layers of soil, sand, crushed stone, expanded clay will serve as a quality support for the concrete floor.
• Level... It is simply irreplaceable for the preparation and arrangement of a flat floor in a private house. It will come in handy at the initial stage in order to make a perfectly even mark along the floor height. Also needed when installing the formwork.
• The rule... Necessary for leveling a newly poured screed. Eliminates the possibility of grooves and irregularities.

• Trowel. Used to work in small areas.
• Needle roller is necessary to eliminate air bubbles in uncured concrete fill. When leveling concrete mortar, air can penetrate and remain in the coating. Because of this, microcracks may appear soon, this will shorten the life of the concrete coating. By rolling over the fresh concrete with a roller, you will get rid of the problem of air bubbles.
• Metal brush for cleaning set concrete. It will help to avoid the formation of roughness on the finished coating.

Concreting process

The installation of the floor begins only after the installation of load-bearing and additional walls and the roof is also made. This applies to both residential and non-residential premises. In order to fill the concrete floor with your own hands, the work should be done in several stages.

Taking measurements

Measurements are necessary in order to determine the zero level of the floor. Usually this parameter coincides with the level of the foundation. Everything below is considered to be a rough floor. If the house is being built according to the project, then all measurements will be reflected in the drawings.

Next, the thickness of each layer of the "cake" is calculated. The sand layer should be 10-15 cm. In private houses, an additional layer of gravel may not be used, since the load on the concrete pavement is low. The next layer is rough, about 10 cm thick. reinforced mesh... The thickness of the insulation should be 10 cm. And last layer- concrete screed. Layer thickness - at least 7 cm for residential premises. All of the above layers are summed up and a value is obtained equal to the thickness of the "pie" from the ground to the ground level of the floor.

Cleaning and compacting the soil

The soil is cleared of excess garbage... Depending on the calculations, excess land must be removed. If there is not enough soil, then fill up. The work is done by hand, as large equipment can damage the foundation. The next step is to compact the soil.

It is better to do the work with the help of special tools, so you will save time and the work will be done better.

Backfilling with gravel or crushed stone

Before starting filling sand on inside marks are made on the height of the layers and lines are drawn. Deviations of no more than 2 cm are allowed. The sand is laid in layers and carefully rammed. The better the sand compaction, the more stable the floor will be. For this, it is better to use a professional technique.

Rough concrete floor

A rough concrete floor is required to enhance the performance of the main concrete pavement. For strength, reinforcement must be installed. It is worth pouring in the solution in portions, focusing on the previously determined levels of layers and marks. The concrete must be leveled with a long rule.

Use a spirit level to avoid unevenness.

Hydro and thermal insulation

To install waterproofing on concrete, it is enough to wait 48 hours. During this time, the concrete will set. But it is worth remembering that waterproofing in private houses is not a prerequisite. It all depends on the thickness of the sand layer. If it prevents the penetration of moisture droplets, then additional protection is not needed.

It is worth using expanded polystyrene as a heater. This material meets all technical requirements but has a high cost. As its substitute, as well as for reasons of economy, you can use slag or expanded clay. Styrofoam must be laid tightly, without gaps. The joints of the slabs must not coincide - they must be staggered.

Above, a layer of dense polyethylene is required for waterproofing. This will increase performance expanded polystyrene.

Pouring solution

Before you start pouring the final layer, you need to install the beacons. This will help create an even finish. The distance between the beacons is 50-60 cm. When installing, be sure to use a level. Now you can start pouring concrete. It is better to do it in portions. Leveling is done first with a shovel and trowel, and then with a rule. It is important to avoid the formation of depressions and bumps.

This completes the creation of the concrete pavement. After complete drying, you can proceed to the base coat. You can use any materials - wood, laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles.

Concrete floors can also be kept warm. For this, pipes are additionally laid during the laying process.

The composition of the "pie"

All work is carried out in stages. Adherence to technology guarantees quality coverage upon completion. The most important thing when laying a concrete floor on the ground is to observe the composition of the "pie".

“Pie” refers to the sequence of layers to be coated. The ground floor device will contain the following layers:

1. The soil is compacted. It is very important to compact the soil well, otherwise your floor will sag and crack over time.
2. A layer of sand or fine gravel.
3. Rough concrete screed layer;
4. Waterproofing;
5. Insulation;
6. Concrete floor.

To ensure that the concrete pavement will delight you throughout its entire service life, it is worth considering the advice of experienced specialists:

• Layers of sand, crushed stone or expanded clay must be laid alternately. By carefully tamping each layer, you create a solid cushion for the concrete.
• It is advisable to pour concrete in one go. But if this does not work out, then you can change the technology and make a fill in two approaches.
• If you want to get a high-quality and even coating after completing the work, then you should use a vibrator to compact the concrete floor, as well as for additional leveling.
• Do not immediately fill the entire floor with mortar. It is more correct to do everything gradually. Divide the area into several parts. Level the mortar with a shovel, and only then use the rule and the needle roller.