How to make a bow out of PVC pipes with your own hands. Do-it-yourself installation of pvc pipes Dimensions of an arched greenhouse

When designing pipelines, PVC pipes are increasingly being used, which have replaced heavy and bulky metal pipes. They have been common for a long period - ever since the polymer appeared and became widely used in construction work. Pipes made of this material are applicable for the installation of not only cold water supply systems, but also hot water systems. They are used to create technological systems, are used in the creation of sewer systems, and in addition, are used in food industry. Let's talk about installation pvc pipes with your own hands.

Features of PVC pipes

PVC pipes are common in the construction of external pipelines, and in the construction of hidden ones. If this outer gasket, then such a system looks aesthetically pleasing and neat. In addition, this design stands out for its favorable price. Polyvinyl chloride is not only the cheapest polymer. Its cost is much lower than the cost of galvanized steel plates, which explains the cheapness of such a pipeline.

PVC pipes have a number of advantages that distinguish them from other materials:

Ease.
Long service life. They last much longer than metal ones.
Resistant to corrosion.
Resistant to temperature extremes.
Good permeability.
High sound insulation.

No need for application special tools. The method of "cold welding" is used.

Polyvinyl chloride is very hard, so special fittings are used when working with such pipes. This property makes them look like steel, which means that when they are installed, calculations for steel systems can be involved.

Most European water pipes are made of PVC pipes. Increasingly, such pipes began to displace metal and in domestic production. Their popularity is growing every year.

Installation of PVC pipelines

Such pipelines are reliable and light. It is very easy to install PVC pipes with your own hands. In this case, you should use the following tools:

Sandpaper.
Scissors for cutting pipes.
Glue.
Primer.
Brushes for applying glue.

The bonding process is carried out using aggressive adhesives and does not require additional equipment. At the core this process lies the dissolution of the surface layer of the connected elements with glue. There is an interpenetration of parts into each other at the molecular level. As a result, a single monolithic solid structure is obtained.

Before you start gluing, you should check the dimensions and resort to the so-called "dry" connection.

It is important that the pipe is freely inserted into the fitting socket.

If necessary, pipes can be cut. To do this, use special scissors or a roller cutter. If there are no such tools, you can resort to using a hacksaw for metal. Pipes are cut in such a way that a right angle is maintained relative to the axis.

Next, a special knife is used to remove the chamfer from the ends of the pipes. You can process the ends with a file. The treated ends of the pipes should be cleaned of dirt and sawdust, and then degreased. It is desirable to blow the pipe.

When starting to glue all elements of the pipeline system, it is necessary to cover the parts to be joined with a special cleaner - a primer. This will remove residual dirt from the surface and soften the plastic, which in turn will improve the penetration of the adhesive.

The adhesive is applied both to the pipe and to the socket of the fitting. The layer should not be thick. The pipe must be inserted into the socket until it stops and rotated ¼ so that the glue can be evenly distributed over the surface of the parts to be joined. Bonding time is no more than a minute.

After connection, the elements must be held for 30 seconds. This is necessary so that the pipe is fixed and does not slip out of the connecting fitting.

If everything is done correctly, then an even layer of adhesive will appear at the junction of the pipe and fitting. This is called a "bandage" and is removed with a clean cloth.

When working with pipes and connecting components (fittings) made of PVC, it is recommended to use an adhesive specified by the manufacturer.

When using an adhesive of other trademarks there is no guarantee that the connection will be airtight and durable.

When installing a pipeline, the details of which exceed 50 mm in diameter, a special tightening device should be used.

Today there is no shortage of adhesive. Manufacturers have specially developed and produced a quick-drying adhesive for gluing PVC pipes. This substance does not require the additional use of a primer to clean the surface of the pipes.

Video

This technology is clearly shown in this video.

One of the inexpensive but effective ways to provide yourself with early vegetables, berries, herbs from early spring to late autumn is a greenhouse from polypropylene pipes, you can build a structure with your own hands in 1-2 days. The product is light, strong, mobile, durable, does not require significant costs and skills in construction, and can be easily dismantled if necessary.

Secrets of building greenhouses from PVC pipes

Greenhouses from pvc profile can be built in any shape:

arched;
rectangular under a single, gable roof;
combined from several sections;
rectangular buildings with arched roofs.

The construct depends on the preferences of the owners, the selected project. It is important to remember that the more interfaces, the more docking elements will be required, which leads to additional costs. It is advisable to arrange structures of small and medium size, 2-2.4 m high, about 3 m wide, 4-12 m long.

Good to know: Ergonomic width of 1 bed 800-1000 mm, tracks - 700-800 mm. Based on these parameters, the dimensions of the building from PVC pipes should be calculated.

Suitable for building greenhouses water pipes pvc, standard diameter 16-110 mm, pipe length is usually 5 m, you can buy a cut product: 2.3.4 m. PVC pipes with a reinforced layer of thin aluminum or a mixture of fiberglass with polypropylene are also on sale. They are more durable, but the price is higher; for the construction of greenhouses, the use of such products is not economically justified, but the owner is a gentleman.

The optimal polyethylene pipe for a greenhouse has a diameter of 25-32 mm - for arched products, 50 mm or more - for racks-vertical supports in rectangular structures.

Homemade greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes, suitable for summer cottages

Useful characteristics of pvc pipes

A greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes is durable, does not require additional costs for special care during operation, it is not afraid of aggressive atmospheric environment, thanks to the characteristics of the material:

the service life of PVC pipes is 10 years or more, wear-resistant;
moisture resistant, do not rot;
are not afraid of chemical and biological influences;
do not burn;
do not emit harmful substances;
withstand significant mechanical loads, do not deform;
the material is flexible, which allows you to independently, without additional devices, bend an arc of different radius.

Drawings and design features

For construction, drawings of a greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes will be required, it is not difficult to make a sketch with your own hands: it is enough to think over the shape of the frame, indicating the dimensions and valuable components of the structure. You can find a finished project on the Web, adapt it to individual conditions. What should be considered if you make a drawing of the greenhouse yourself:

what will be the foundation (foundation);
constructive, materials for gables;
shape, placement of the main nodes, the distance between the bearing elements;
docking, fastening parts.

Plastic pipes can be glued, put on self-tapping screws, soldered with a special device, in the video we offer a practical and easy way to connect pvc pipes yourself at home.

The easiest way is to build an arched frame for a greenhouse from polypropylene pipes, cover it with a film. Rectangular structures are more difficult to self erection, additional calculations will be required, more stiffeners will have to be provided. It should also be taken into account that numerous docking nodes weaken the structure.

Standard drawing of a greenhouse made of pvc pipes

How to build a greenhouse from plastic pipes with your own hands - video tips and step-by-step photos of construction

A greenhouse is installed from polypropylene pipes with their own hands by one or two people in a few hours. Choose an open, sunny, flat area.

We are preparing the site

It is better to pour a strip foundation under the greenhouse, or lay out a platform around the perimeter of brick, blocks, rubble stone. Simplest, fast option foundation devices - a foundation made of a board 50 * 100-150 mm or a bar with ribs 100-150 * 100-150 mm.

We mark the site according to the drawing, hammer in the pegs, pull the rope around the perimeter. It is recommended to remove the upper fertile layer of soil along the pit, with a depth of 300-500 mm. You can dig a trench along the perimeter, 300-400 mm wide, 300-700 mm deep. We level the bottom, fill it with crushed stone - 100-200 mm, sandstone - 100-200 mm, ram it. We cover 1-2 layers of roofing material. We process the timber with refractory, antiseptic impregnations, coat with liquid bitumen, machine oil. We lay the parts in a trench, check the geometry, the diagonals should be equal. We fasten on galvanized corners and long self-tapping screws.

Useful advice: More solid foundation it turns out if the ends of the timber are cut down by ½, put one into one, drill through, tighten with bolts.

We assemble the frame of the greenhouse from PVC pipes

We cut the pipes to size according to the drawing with a hacksaw for metal, a grinder, we clean the ends with a file.

The first stage is the manufacture of gables. It is better to collect them on the ground, and then install them on a prepared foundation.

Scheme of assembling greenhouse doors from pvc pipes

We assemble the doors, you will need: 2 vertical parts, 2-2.1 m high, 3 transverse parts - 700-900 mm wide, connecting elements - 4 corners, 2 tees. The opening is made of 2 vertical posts, 1 diameter, as in the diagram above. The height and width of the opening should be 5-10 mm larger than the door itself. We attach hinges to one of the racks.

A simple scheme for assembling a greenhouse made of pvc pipes with your own hands

Useful advice: For the strength of the greenhouse, it is recommended to put on an additional 1-2 tees on the front arch, fix them vertical racks and install horizontal stiffeners. The pediment can be made of wood or welded from metal profiled pipes.

Along the long side, outside we drive the foundation into the ground to a depth of 300-700 mm, depending on the softness of the soil, reinforcing, corrugated rods, 8-12 mm thick. The length of the rod is calculated individually, taking into account the fact that it should stick out 500-800 mm. The distance between the reinforcement is 600-900 mm, but not more than a meter.

How to install a greenhouse made of polyethylene pipes with your own hands, a photo of the base with reinforcement for attaching the frame

We put a pvc pipe, cut to size, with one end on a rod, bend it, insert the other end from the opposite side of the foundation. According to this algorithm, we install the remaining arches.

Due to the elasticity of PVC pipes, the arcs for the greenhouse are the same in shape

To do-it-yourself installed greenhouse from plastic pipes was durable, we fasten the arcs to the foundation on galvanized brackets, which can be replaced with wide polymer clamps.

An example of how a greenhouse is assembled from plastic pipes with your own hands, a photo of attaching arcs to the base

In the same way, we install the previously prepared pediments of the greenhouse. It remains to tie the frame with transverse elements. We cut pvc pipes along the length of the greenhouse, and fix them on the frame with plastic clamps, as in the photo below. One transverse element in the center of the greenhouse, at the highest point of the arc, in large buildings, preferably one more from each side.

The frame of the greenhouse made of plastic pipes, in the photo, how to attach the longitudinal elements to the clamps

According to the door assembly scheme, ventilation vents are made and mounted in openings. Next, the frame is covered with plastic wrap.

Assembly diagram of a reinforced version of doors and vents made of PVC pipes

Good to know: Hinges for opening openings can be made by hand. To do this, 2 pieces of 10 mm each are cut from a PVC pipe of a larger diameter, glued together, vertical elements of doors and vents are inserted into them, and fixed to self-tapping screws.

See another option for assembling a small greenhouse with your own hands.

Other ways to build greenhouses from pvc pipes

Do-it-yourself arched greenhouse made of plastic pipes can be built entirely on connecting elements, but such structures will require large financial costs. Thanks to the frequent sections, PVC pipe greenhouses on connectors are more durable.

One of the examples of how to assemble greenhouses from polypropylene pipes with your own hands, in the photo is a design on special docking elements

A rectangular greenhouse made of PVC pipes is also assembled in a similar way, but in this case, material with a diameter of 32-50 mm should be used.

Greenhouse made of plastic pipes, pictured is a typical gable design

How to attach the film to the frame

To attach the film to the pvc pipe frame, you can cut pieces of 50-100 mm, cut a quarter along the length, you get staples. After the film is stretched over the greenhouse, it is fixed to the vertical and longitudinal posts with the resulting latches.

More ways to attach a film from a greenhouse made of PVC pipes:

mesh throughout the frame;
ropes;
on double-sided tape glued to the frame;
using tapes cut from linoleum, fasten with ordinary self-tapping screws.

Good to know: The film is recommended to be made longer than the frame of the greenhouse made of PVC pipes, so that it lies on the ground by 100-200 mm. After mounting the structure, the edges are sprinkled with earth, so it will be possible to avoid drafts in the greenhouse.

How to attach polycarbonate to a pvc pipe greenhouse frame

For polycarbonate coating, the greenhouse frame is recommended to be made of PVC pipes with a diameter of 32 mm. Honeycomb sheets with a thickness of 4-6 mm are suitable.

Polycarbonate is fastened with self-tapping screws with a press washer 3.2x25 mm. Excess along the arc is cut off with a sharp knife. The second sheet is overlapped with the first by 100 mm. It is also possible to fix a special detachable docking profile with self-tapping screws on a frame made of pvc pipes, insert sheets into it, close the joint with a plug.

Look at the reviews of the master who made the greenhouse from pvc pipes with polycarbonate with his own hands, in the video he explains the main installation steps and mistakes that should be taken into account when building the structure.

Today, any hardware store is replete with a huge assortment building material, which can be used in the construction of water supply and heating systems, as well as their periodic replacement. However, products made of polyvinyl chloride are the most common raw materials, due to their resistance to aggressive substances. To properly install PVC pipes with your own hands, you will need to take into account the properties of the material and a number of important features when connecting elements.

The main advantages of PVC are:

resistance to chemicals and environmental factors;
perfectly smooth surfaces of products exclude the formation of growths, blockages and other deposits;
a wide range of components allows you to build any design of the pipeline;
resistance to corrosion and premature destruction;
huge period of operation;
ease of installation;
low heat conductivity;
small specific gravity and flammability coefficient;
hermetic connection of pipes provides for use on floating soils.

Flaws:

temperature restrictions;
availability of special fittings.

V general idea installation of plastic pipes is a connection individual elements from PVC, fittings and accessories into a single sealed network. It is carried out through three technologies:

in a bell-shaped way;
by the method of "cold welding";
by using special connectors.

Installation using the first method in most cases is used in the construction sewer systems, since it is the simplest and provides for the usual fixation of the end of the connecting pipe in the rubber gasket of the other.

The second way is to use a special chemical composition providing reliable contact of all elements. The third method is used when connecting pipes of different nature, for example, from metal and polymers.

Training

Carrying out preparatory work is an extremely important procedure, which provides for a clear organization of actions and the availability of all necessary tools. The first step is to compile exemplary scheme, which will fully reflect the number of fittings, pipe sizes and their number. Before cutting PVC pipes for adhesive bonding, preliminary measurements should be carried out on a dry surface. The ends of the connecting elements must be cleaned and degreased. Cutting should be done with a conventional hacksaw or a special cutter. Do not forget that the fixation of pipes is provided with the help of special staples attached to the wall.

In order for the cut to turn out to be even and airtight, it is worthwhile to first outline the pipe at the place of the future cut. Cutting is carried out strictly at an angle of 90 °. The remaining irregularities are cleaned with a knife and sanding paper.

The connecting pipe must enter at least 2/3 of the fitting device. Then the cut points should be treated with a cleaner, which will not only remove all the dirt from the edges, but also somewhat soften the future attachment point. The inner space of the fitting and the end part of the pipe are covered with a small layer of glue, after which they are tightly clamped for 1 minute. At the junction of the elements, a uniform adhesive ring should form, which should be cleaned with a dry rag.

Finished with everyone preparatory activities, it is worth installing the future design. During the construction of sewerage, all work leads from risers to plumbing fixtures. The connection of sewer pipes with a fitting is carried out by simply fixing a piece of the product in the rubber gasket of the fastening device. The main thing is to insert the pipe without bevels until it stops. Loose contact can subsequently lead to an unpleasant odor.

It would be useful to check the place of the future connection and the rubber layer for dirt and dust before performing this procedure. To ensure a more reliable connection, it is necessary to lubricate the end of the attached segment and the fitting rubber with soapy water or glycerin grease.

After the main communication is ready, it is worth starting to connect all the plumbing fixtures, not forgetting to equip the sinks and bathrooms with siphons. The next major step is to test the system for leaks. In this situation, it is necessary to turn on all the plumbing in the house and check all connections for leaks. In addition, you should see how the structure will behave in critical situations - draw a bucket of water and quickly pour it into the sink or washbasin. If there is no moisture on the floor, it means that the work was done efficiently and efficiently, but if there are leaks, then the “problem” areas should be dismantled and fixed again using various adhesive compositions. Then repeat the test.

Any water supply system is subject to high pressure, therefore, for the installation of water pipes, you will need to use a special welding machine(ironing). Having finished with all the preparatory measures, we proceed to the assembly of the entire structure, which, as in the arrangement of the sewer, should be started from the riser. Before using welding equipment, be sure to read the attached technical documentation. Depending on the power of the heating element, the heating time of the connecting elements may vary.

After heating device ready to use should be inserted connecting pipe and fitting from different sides into a heated nozzle and wait about 15–20 seconds. Then carefully remove them from the device and immediately insert them into each other, while observing the required connecting angles. Then, in this position, it is worth fixing for 10–15 seconds so that the plastic elements have time to grab. The resulting connection will be for a long time function effectively due to the fact that the structure of the two constituent parts will become one.

In no case do not neglect safety measures: goggles and gloves are included with the welding machine. The slightest contact with the heating element can cause severe burns.

The financial benefits of using PVC pipes can be tracked at almost every stage self construction from planning to launch. The use of this material will allow avoiding the calculation of transition factors at the stage of arranging a metal pipeline. During operation, such communications are unpretentious, since they do not require preventive maintenance and additional staining. At the same time, the material is environmentally friendly, which allows it to be laid in the ground, thereby accelerating the start-up of the water supply system.

Video

This video shows adhesive method PVC compounds pipes:

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P arnica, or, simply put, a greenhouse is an integral part of any suburban area or vegetable garden. This structure protects plants from adverse effects. environment. Although the greenhouse is not heated, it is still always warm inside. This factor is provided by the materials from which the greenhouse is made. So, pipes made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are now widely used as a frame. Let's find out how to make a greenhouse with your own hands from PVC pipes.

PVC pipe greenhouse

Strength. Such pipes will not break under enormous weight. Studies have shown that one PVC element of average size can withstand weight up to 500 kilograms;
Elasticity. As you know, to build a greenhouse, you need to create arches from pipes. from metal and wooden materials this is quite difficult to do, while PVC pipes are easily bent into desired shape. Do-it-yourself arcs for a greenhouse are easily made only if, as source material Are you using PVC?

Durability. All PVC products do not break for decades. Therefore, the greenhouse will be a safe haven for your plants for many years.

If you decide to make a greenhouse out of plastic pipes with your own hands, then polyvinyl chloride is the best material available today.

Video: options for greenhouses to give

What do you need to build a greenhouse yourself?

The construction of a greenhouse is a rather exciting and not complicated process, the main stages of which are presented in the photo below.

The greenhouse consists of three main elements: foundation, frame, cover. These elements are made from the following materials:

PVC pipes. It is desirable that their cross section is 13 mm, since this size is the most optimal for creating a greenhouse;

Boards. Give preference to treated, durable wood, the thickness of which varies from 20 to 40 millimeters. It is advisable to cover them with transparent varnish before laying - this maneuver will give strength to the structure;

Steel wire. Necessary for connecting pipes to each other. Prepare cuts from 80 cm to 1 meter. Their number should be twice as many as pipes;
Coating. For this purpose, you can use a special greenhouse film or polycarbonate sheets. They are strong enough to protect plants from negative environmental factors. In addition, they allow air to pass through, so the cultures will not wither;
You will also need a hammer, pliers, screws, nails and other small things.

To make greenhouses with your own hands from PVC pipes, stock up on all of the above materials in the right amount. The larger the size of the greenhouse is planned, the more materials will be needed.

Related article:

Step-by-step instructions for building a greenhouse

The creation of a greenhouse consists of 4 stages:

Construction of a foundation made of wood;
Installation of fasteners for PVC pipes;
Installation of arches;
Greenhouse cover.

Let's consider each process in more detail.

Building a timber foundation

To begin with, it is worth leveling the area, which is reserved for the greenhouse. Using a tape measure and steel rods, mark the corners of the greenhouse. Using the level, you can check how flat the ground is.

Further, in the corners of the greenhouse, dig trenches (there should be 4 of them) with a depth of at least 10-15 centimeters. 4 boards are installed there, which serve as the foundation for the greenhouse. These boards should be reinforced with nails and screws. So it will be possible to achieve better fixation and durability of the greenhouse.

Installation of fasteners for PVC pipes

Next, we drive steel bars into the ground. They need to be installed evenly. To make the length between the rods the same, count their number, divide by two (one batch on each side) and measure the length of each side with a tape measure. Then calculate the optimal distance between the bars. It is important that they are located opposite each other, and that the distance between them is the same. Steel bars are driven into the ground with a hammer. They should stand close to the foundation, that is, to the boards that were previously installed.

Also, to fix the arches, you can use special glasses that are attached directly to the wooden base.

Installation of arches

In order to create arches from plastic pipes, you will need a pipe bender, or a building hair dryer to heat the pipe and shape it into an arc. After the arch is ready, it is put on a steel bar on both sides and attached to the base with a clamp.

After installing all the arches at the top point, a pipe is attached to the entire length of the greenhouse with a wire. This additional stiffener will give the structure strength and stability.

The PVC industry offers a wide range of fittings for pipes, so there are special crosses to give the design a presentable appearance and ease of installation.

A greenhouse is not only a decoration of a summer cottage, but also a guarantee good harvest especially in temperate latitudes. Prices for industrial greenhouses are quite high, and standard design not suitable for all gardeners.

In this case, it is easier and cheaper to assemble a greenhouse with your own hands from improvised materials, for example, from plastic pipes.

The classification of greenhouses is quite complicated: they can differ in form, seasonality, the presence and type of heating, the material used for the frame and shelter.

For the manufacture of PVC pipes, the simplest and most reliable designs are suitable, including:

wall-mounted greenhouse;
gable, in the form of a house;
polygonal, co complex shape stingrays;
arched, with a frame in the form of a semicircle.

Wall greenhouses usually attached to the southern or southwestern wall of a house or other premises. At the same time, the wall plays the role of a thermomass: heating up during the day, it gives off heat at night, which reduces the average daily temperature fluctuations, and also protects from cold northern winds.

In wall greenhouses, a microclimate favorable for plants is created, and the cost is lower than that of stand-alone models. The main disadvantage of this design is the constant exposure of the wall to moisture and the lack of good ventilation, which can lead to the destruction of the wall material.

Gable design- one of the most convenient and popular. This is explained by the strength of the frame and its resistance to snow and wind loads. The reflection coefficient of gable greenhouses is low, most of the sun's rays penetrate inside, which increases the efficiency of lighting. By increasing the angle of inclination of the slopes, it is possible to achieve snow melting in winter time, and the greenhouse does not have to be raked.

Gable greenhouses are equipped with one or two doors, as well as vents for ventilation. The side walls of gable greenhouses can be either strictly vertical or inclined. In the second case, the illumination in the greenhouse in the morning and evening hours will be higher, which is important for temperate latitudes.

polygonal design greenhouses almost repeats the shape of the arch due to several planes that form slopes and walls. Due to this, the internal space increases and at the same time the main disadvantage of arched greenhouses is compensated - large ratio reflections of the sun's rays.

It is difficult to assemble a polygonal greenhouse from pipes with your own hands due to the large number connecting nodes, so it is usually made from metal pipes by welding or from a profile for drywall, assembling the frame on self-tapping screws.

- perhaps one of the most common designs, and this is easily explained: it is distinguished by strength and stability, a minimum number of connecting nodes and a large internal space. You can make it from almost any type of pipe, choosing any size and height.

The disadvantages of arched greenhouses include increased accumulation of snow on the roof in winter period and a large reflectivity from the inclined plane of the film or polycarbonate.

Partial reflection compensate correct installation greenhouses - from north to south. With this arrangement, the side walls are illuminated by the morning and evening sun, and the rays hit the walls of the greenhouse almost at right angles. During the day, when the sun is high, it illuminates the south pediment and roof, where the refraction of the rays is not so strong.

Snow accumulation is dealt with in three ways:

regular cleaning;
dismantling the film or the entire greenhouse for the winter;
changing shape to a lancet arch.

Lancet-shaped greenhouses have a more stable structure, and their increased height has a beneficial effect on the microclimate: hot superheated air accumulates at the top and does not depress the plants. At the same time, the consumption of material and the planting area do not differ from those of conventional arched greenhouses.

PVC pipes and methods for their connection

PVC pipes are designed for installation of cold water supply systems and can be operated at temperatures up to +65 degrees. Due to the flexibility and a wide variety of connecting elements, it is easy to assemble a greenhouse of any configuration from them.

For greenhouses, PVC pipes with a diameter of 20 to 32 mm are used, they provide the necessary frame rigidity. The standard length of pipes can be 1, 2, 3 or 6 meters.

There are several ways to connect PVC pipes for a greenhouse:

with the help of clamps, screeds;
on furniture bolts through pre-drilled holes;
on glue.

When connecting pipes to clamps or bolts, the greenhouse can be completely disassembled and moved to another place, ensuring crop rotation. In this way, film greenhouses and greenhouses are more often mounted. The film is usually removed for the winter in order to avoid damage by snow and wind, at the same time the frame is dismantled.

The adhesive connection is non-separable, but more durable. It is recommended to use it for greenhouses installed on the foundation and left for the winter. Such greenhouses are covered, as a rule, - it serves at least 5-7 years and does not require annual replacement.

Connecting elements for PVC pipes used in the installation of the greenhouse:

corners, allow the fastening of mutually perpendicular elements;
tees- connect three pipes in the same plane or at an angle (one-plane tees can have an angle of 45, 66 and 90 degrees);
crosses, for connecting four pipe elements.

The number and type of fittings used depend on the design of the greenhouse, as well as the type of connection chosen.

Prices for PVC pipes

pvc pipes

The procedure for connecting pipes and fittings with glue

The connection is made with Tangit PVC-U glue from the Henkel company or its equivalent. This adhesive provides a strong fastening of parts and quickly hardens, so installation does not take much time.

Prices for Tangit PVC Kleber

Sequencing.

Cut the pipe to the required length with a cutter, hacksaw or construction scissors. Check the compatibility of the pipe and the fitting: the pipe must go into it by 2/3 of the length of the socket.
Clean the edges of burrs, chamfer the end with a knife.
Degrease the surfaces to be joined with any solvent. Apply adhesive to both surfaces to be bonded: the pipe and the inner surface of the fitting.
Insert the pipe into the fitting strictly along its axis by 2/3 of the depth until it stops, then turn it 90 degrees inside the fitting so that the adhesive is evenly distributed.
Fix them in this position for 15-30 seconds, then wait another 1-2 minutes until complete bonding.

The procedure for connecting pipes to bolts

Furniture bolts with a diameter of M6 or M8 are chosen as fasteners, depending on the diameter of the pipes. The length must be sufficient to connect two pipes.

Sequencing.

In pipes, prior to installation, mark places for drilling holes.
drilled out through holes drill 2 mm larger than the diameter of the bolts.
Connect the pipes by aligning the holes. Insert and tighten bolts.

Holes can also be drilled in place, while the pipe is temporarily fixed to a wire tie or otherwise fixed.

Calculation of the necessary materials

First you need to decide on the shape and size of the greenhouse (length, width and height). As a rule, two beds are located in the greenhouse, separated by a passage. The width of the beds usually varies between 0.8-1.1 meters - this allows you to plant two rows of plants at the required interval and provide convenient access to them.

The width of the passage should be such that you can walk freely with buckets and other garden tool, including the wheelbarrow. Usually the path is made 0.6-0.8 m wide. As a result, the width of the greenhouse will be 2.2-3 m.

The length of the greenhouse depends on your needs and the placement rate. vegetable crops that you plan to grow in it. Planting rates per 1 m 2 of the greenhouse area are given in table 1.

Table 1. Norms for planting vegetables in a greenhouse.

culture	Number of roots per 1 m2
	2-4
	1-2
	4-6
	2-4
	4-6
	2-4

Based on these standards, determine the length of the greenhouse. Usually the length is 3-6 meters - it is impractical to install a smaller greenhouse, and for structures greater length it is better to use more durable materials and capital construction technologies.

Note! If you plan to use polycarbonate as a greenhouse cover, choose a length that is a multiple of the width of the sheets (2 meters). This way you avoid unnecessary cuts.

The height of the greenhouse should allow you to move freely in it, in addition, there should be at least 50 cm of free space above the plants - it accumulates hot air and ventilation takes place. For undersized crops - peppers, eggplants, undersized tomatoes - a height of 1.8-2.0 meters is enough. For tall crops, the height of the greenhouse should be at least 2.2-2.4 meters.

Another important parameter for an arched greenhouse made of pipes - the length of the arc, which is found by the formula:

Here L is the length of the pipe for the arc, m; h is the height of the greenhouse, m; B is the width of the greenhouse, m. Table 2 shows the dimensions L for the most commonly used greenhouse sizes.

Table 2. Arc length for greenhouses of standard sizes.

Width	h = 1.8 m	h = 2.0 m	h = 2.2 m	h = 2.4 m
B = 2.2 m	3,1	3,5	3,8	4,1
B = 2.4 m	3,4	3,8	4,1	4,5
B = 2.6 m	3,7	4,1	4,5	4,9
B=2.8m	4,0	4,4	4,8	5,3
B = 3.0 m	4,2	4,7	5,2	5,7

To calculate materials, it is also necessary to determine the step between the arches. If you plan to remove the cover from the greenhouse for the winter, it is enough to place the arches in 0.8-1 meter increments. For a non-separable structure, the step should be reduced to 0.5-0.7 meters - this will protect the greenhouse from deformation under the influence of snow.

It is necessary to take into account the material for the manufacture of longitudinal ties, end walls, doors and vents. The total length of the longitudinal ties can be calculated by multiplying the length of the greenhouse by the number of ties. Usually there are at least five of them: two lower, two side and ridge. To strengthen the structure, you can use additional side ties.

Pipes will be needed on the end walls overall length 15-20 m. About 5 meters of pipe are needed for each door, 2-2.5 meters for a window leaf. For convenience, you can make a detailed sketch, which shows all the dimensions, as well as the number of connecting elements.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling an arched greenhouse

Below is step-by-step instruction assembling a greenhouse from PVC pipes with the following dimensions:

width - 2.4 m;
height - 2.0 m.
length - 4 m.

According to table 2, the length of the arc is determined - it is 3.8 m. PVC pipes are used for the frame standard length 6 m diameter 25 mm. Such pipes will provide the structure with reliability and rigidity. To connect the pipes, standard 25 mm fittings and a glue connection are used.

For a greenhouse of the indicated dimensions with two doors and vents and with an arch spacing of 67 cm, you will need:

PVC pipe L=6 m, Ø25 mm - 16 pieces;
single-plane cross Ø25 - 5 pieces;
tee one-plane angle 90 degrees Ø25– 28 pieces;
tee one-plane angle 45 degrees Ø25– 4 pieces;
two-plane tee Ø25 - 4 pieces;
corner 90 degrees Ø25 - 16 pieces;
self-tapping screws or furniture bolts for attaching side ties - 36 pieces;
two-arm clamps - 18 pieces, 55 mm self-tapping screws for them - 36 pieces.
door hinges - 8 pieces, 24 mm screws for them - 48 pieces;
polycarbonate - 3 sheets measuring 2x6 meters;
self-tapping screws for fixing polycarbonate with a thermal washer - 100 pieces;
connecting profile for polycarbonate or construction tape.

You can also use a film as a cover for the greenhouse, it will take about 8 running meters with a width of 6 m.

Ground leveling and foundation installation

To avoid distortion of the structure during installation and operation, the area under the greenhouse must first be leveled. To do this, mark the location of the future greenhouse on the ground with the help of pegs and twine and check the site for level. With a slope of more than 1 degree, the site must be leveled. Under the foundation it is recommended to perform sand cushion 5-10 cm thick.

Traditionally used as a foundation for greenhouses wooden beam with a section of 10x10 cm. It provides load distribution and lasts at least 10-15 years, while it is inexpensive, and its installation does not take much time.

Step 1. The beam is sawn to the size of the greenhouse, impregnated with an antiseptic for lower rims log house or waste oil and dried. It is more convenient to treat with an antiseptic using a sprayer.

Step 2 They assemble the foundation on the site for the greenhouse, laying out the timber on a sand cushion or auxiliary brick posts, while using a level. Check the dimensions, as well as the diagonals - when correct styling they must be equal.

Step 3 Connect the bars with the help of metal corners and self-tapping screws. With insufficient length of the bars, they are fastened with brackets. For better adhesion to the ground, metal pins are used - lugs. All fasteners must be protective covering, it is best to take galvanized elements. After installing the foundation, they can be additionally painted or varnished.

Step 4 Sand is poured around the perimeter of the foundation, finally fixing it. At the same time, you can immediately make paths in the greenhouse and fencing the ridges.

Assembling the frame of the greenhouse

The assembly of the frame begins with the preparation of the necessary pipe sections. After cutting to size, it is better to sign them with a marker so as not to get confused.

For the described design, you will need:

pipe segments 400 cm long - 2 or 4 pieces;
pipe segments 190 cm long - 10 pieces;
pipe segments 180 cm long - 4 pieces;
pipe segments 140 cm long - 4 pieces;
pipe segments 76 cm long - 8 pieces;
pipe segments 65 cm long - 18 pieces;
pipe segments 46 cm long - 4 pieces;
pipe segments 10 cm long - 4 pieces.

The remaining elements, including the frame of doors, vents and end ties, are cut out in place during the installation process.

Step 1. Pipes for five intermediate arches 190 cm long are glued in pairs using crosses. In the illustration, the connection points are highlighted in blue.

Step 2 The end arches are connected according to the scheme of four pipe sections and three tees. Two pipe sections of 140 cm each form side arcs that are attached to the tees with an angle of 45 degrees so that when the arch is bent into an arc, the free sockets of the tees are directed downwards - the doorway pillars will be attached to them. Pipe segments 46 cm long are connected to a 90 degree tee, then the parts are combined into general design, while the side flare of the 90 degree tee must be directed perpendicular to the axis of the 45 degree tees.

Step 3 Two lower side ties are assembled from six pieces of pipe 65 cm long and five single-plane tees per tie. The conclusions of the tees are directed strictly in one direction - arcs will be attached to them.

Step 4 Two end ties are assembled from three pieces of pipe 76 cm and two single-plane tees for each tie.

Step 5 Collect doorways according to the scheme. Pipe sections 1.8 m long are fixed in the lower tees, then they are connected using tees and jumpers 76 cm long. Pipe sections about 10 cm long are glued to the tees - the continuation of the racks. Later they are cut to size when connected to the arch.

Step 6 Assemble end walls. Connect the end ties and end arches with the help of tees and racks, as well as two-plane tees in the lower part. The pipes at the top of the racks are cut to size.

Step 7 Assemble the frame of the greenhouse on the foundation. One end arch is installed and connected to the lower screeds. The first intermediate arch is installed in tees on the lower screeds and connected to the end arch using a 65 cm long jumper. All intermediate arches are successively fixed. A second end wall is installed, connecting it to the upper and lower side ties. For stability during assembly, temporary wire ties can be used.

Step 8 Check the diagonals of the frame, align it if necessary. The frame is fixed to the beam using metal two-blade clamps and self-tapping screws.

Step 9 Install side straps. They are attached to furniture bolts at a height of about 1.4-1.6 meters on both sides from the inside of the greenhouse. For greater rigidity, additional longitudinal ties can be fixed. The location of the bolts is marked with red crosses.

Step 10 Assemble doors and vents in accordance with the scheme of pipe scraps, tees and corners. Attach vents to door frames on hinges with self-tapping screws. Attach the hinges to the door frame.

Step 11 Fasten doors with hinges in doorways. Install end screeds from pipes according to the scheme, fixing them to furniture bolts. The attachment point is marked with red crosses.

Alternative option - no kink design

Polycarbonate mount

Polycarbonate - comparatively new material, which has received wide recognition from summer residents.

It has many advantages:

good light transmission ability;
double-layer honeycomb structure that retains heat well;
sufficient mechanical strength;
resistance to UV rays;
simple and fast installation;
service life of at least 5 years.

Disadvantages of polycarbonate:

reflects the sun's rays more strongly than glass and film;
resistant to scratches and point impacts, requires careful handling;
with improper installation, moisture and dirt accumulate inside, from which the material fades.

To extend the service life, polycarbonate must be installed strictly according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

Three important factors to be observed:

polycarbonate is fixed so that moisture can drain along the inner longitudinal stripes;
one of the sides of the polycarbonate has a protective UV coating; during installation, the sheets must be placed with this side up;
fastening is carried out on special self-tapping screws with a thermal washer along pre-drilled holes, otherwise the sheets will lead when heated.

Sequencing.

Step 1. Remove the protective film from the polycarbonate and mark the upper side with a marker (on it protective film usually colored or has a manufacturer's logo). It is better to make several marks on each sheet.

Step 2 Cut out polycarbonate for end walls. To do this, a standard sheet is cut into three parts measuring 2x2 meters. One part is applied to the end of the greenhouse so that the cavities are directed vertically. The left side of the sheet is aligned along the left edge and the contours of the arc are outlined with a marker to the left post and down along it. Apply the right edge of the sheet to the right side of the end and do the same. As a result, the contours of two semi-arches are obtained on the sheet. They are cut out with a mounting knife or a jigsaw with a small allowance of 3-5 cm. The same is done with the second end.

Step 3 The cut parts are fixed on self-tapping screws with thermal washers using a screwdriver. The fastening step is 30-50 cm. At the same time, they try not to pinch the polycarbonate. Trim excess polycarbonate with a knife.

Step 4 The third piece of the sheet is used for sheathing doors and vents. The sheet is applied to the doors, observing verticality. They circle the doors with a margin, cut out blanks and attach them to the doors and vents. From the remnants of polycarbonate, an arch is cut out above the door, closed. Polycarbonate at the joints is best connected using special profiles.