Laying parquet boards with your own hands step by step instructions. Do-it-yourself parquet board laying technology: recommendations, norms, video lesson

The choice of flooring is a rather important step when installing floors in a house or apartment. And what materials will have to be used to decorate the interior space of the room depends on this. And since wood has always been the most popular material, many people still try to use a parquet board.

Depending on the professionalism of the parquet paver, the service life of such a coating directly depends. In addition, you do not need to hire craftsmen to install the floor, especially if you have the opportunity to do all the necessary work with your own hands. Thanks to the step-by-step plan, you can easily install the flooring yourself.

Types of parquet boards

Traditionally, experts classify a parquet board by the number of stripes visible on the decorative layer. In accordance with this classification, it can be:

Single lane. In this case, thanks to a special technology, it became possible to manufacture a panel from a solid solid wood while preserving the natural texture of the wood.
Two-lane. In this type of coating, the base is made from a single piece or composite sheet. The finishing layer is created from two planks.
Three-lane, where the panel structure consists of three fragmented strips.

Advantages

The widespread use of parquet boards is explained by a number of such important reasons as:

higher resistance to external influences, in comparison with natural wood;
impregnation of the surface in the factory with special protective compounds and the absence of the need for additional processing;
lower cost compared to natural parquet;
no need for cycling.

Nevertheless, like any finishing material, the parquet panel also has some disadvantages:

since the texture of the board has a one-sided direction, then you should forget about the curly laying of the floor covering;
does not have high moisture resistance, so additional protective measures must be taken.

First stage

Having decided to use a parquet panel, you first need to calculate the area that you want to cover so as not to buy unnecessary material. Next, you need to inspect the base for cracks and potholes, as well as, if there is a slope, the need to create an additional screed using a cement-sand mortar.

In the event that the defects are not significant, then a conventional substrate can be used. Direct laying of the coating is carried out on a pre-fixed plywood sheet, on which special cardboard is lined to create a vapor barrier. In this case, a polyurethane backing is used. Also, very often when laying, a cork substrate with a thickness of 3-4 mm is used.

Installation methods

Parquet boards can be installed in the following ways:

floating;
adhesive.

In the first case, the panels are connected to each other by means of a special locking technology, making installation or dismantling very easy and simple.

The second method involves the use of an adhesive to bond the flooring to the subfloor. It is necessary to apply the adhesive along the entire length to the lower grooves of the board, and if the installation is carried out diagonally, then it should start from the corner of the room.

The laying process takes more than one day and requires a minimum set of tools, namely:

a hacksaw for wood or a jigsaw;
a plastic block for tamping and a hammer;
clamps and restraining wedges;
square and building level;
roulette.

Base and flooring arrangement

For a high-quality flooring of a parquet board without an adhesive connection, it is required that the base is strong, clean and as even as possible. There are two types of subfloors - concrete screed and wood floors with height adjustment.

The concrete screed must be free of significant differences, otherwise the flooring will creak. And wooden floors with adjustable height allow you to raise the surface by five or more centimeters, which makes it possible to save time on the device and lay various communications under them.

Before proceeding with the installation of the floor covering, the packed material should be left for 2-3 days in the room where the repair will be carried out. It is necessary to lay a cork or synthetic backing under the panels, which will protect the board from excessive moisture, for which the joints are subjected to additional sealing.

First, the device of the first two rows is performed, which must be laid parallel to the rays of daylight falling from the window. To do this, along the walls, you first need to install special wedges, and lay the first panels in a checkerboard pattern. The gap must be at least 10 mm. This gap is an expansion joint that protects the parquet board from mechanical influences when the material expands in the event of temperature and humidity changes.

After laying and pressing the first two panels against the wedges, you can proceed with the installation of the second row. The length of the second line panel closest to the wall should be at least 80 cm. Ideally, the transverse seam of the first row is exactly in the middle of the parquet board of the second. The distance between the transverse seams of parallel rows must be at least half a meter, otherwise the panel fastening will be fragile.

Further, the panel of the second line enters the locking mechanism of the parquet board of the first row at an angle of about 20˚, but is not fixed. In the same way, the next panel of the second row is inserted, but it is already snapped in and knocked together with the first board in the lock connection. After the parquet boards with the help of a bar are fitted to each other until the seams disappear, they are firmly fixed in the same way, the entire floor in the room is laid, with the exception of the last row.

To install the last parquet panels, it is necessary to very accurately measure the distance of the edge of the penultimate row to the wall. The panel of the last row to create an expansion gap must have a width of 10 mm less than the measured distance. After that, on the grooves of the penultimate row, it is necessary to cut off the key edge, fill it with glue and insert the panel of the last row. The last row of planks can be firmly inserted by means of the mounting foot, which is supplied with the parquet board.

At the last stage, the installation and fixation of the skirting boards is carried out, for which all spacer wedges should be removed. The skirting boards are fastened directly to the wall, and they should not be tightly pressed against the parquet board. When choosing a plinth, it should be borne in mind that in width it should easily cover the expansion gap.

Which is better: parquet, parquet board or laminate

Laminate and parquet boards are currently the most popular types of flooring. Both of these finishing materials allow you to get a strong and reliable coating, and sometimes they are so similar in appearance that it is difficult for a person far from construction to distinguish between them. So what is the difference between parquet and laminate?

Production . Laminate flooring panels can be compared to photo wallpaper transferred to multi-layer fiberboard, while parquet board is three layers of natural wood glued perpendicular to each other and two of which are made from cheap raw materials, and the top front is only from valuable wood species ...

Appearance. The laminated panel most often has a natural wood imitation, but all the planks have the same pattern. With a parquet panel, everything is different, since the pattern on it is identical to the natural structure of the tree, and you simply cannot find two identical panels.

Practicality. Laminate, due to its abrasion resistance, is more practical in comparison with parquet board. Parquet panels need a more careful attitude and do not tolerate large mechanical loads, as well as temperature changes and surges in humidity.

Features of care. If you plan to install parquet flooring in the kitchen, then you need to immediately buy special care products. If the floor is washed with a mop, it should be slightly damp, and when using a washing vacuum cleaner, it is not recommended to turn on the "steam" function. Laminate is also sensitive to moisture, but not as much as parquet. It is not recommended to use household chemicals.

Lifetime. A parquet panel only looks like a fragile material, but if properly cared for, it can last up to 30 years. In addition, the service life of a parquet board can be significantly increased due to periodic restoration, but no more than 4 times during the entire period. Laminate will last 7-20 years, and with a higher class of wear resistance, then longer.

Price . High quality laminate flooring does not differ much in cost from parquet boards, therefore, when choosing a particular floor covering, take into account its properties and the characteristics of the room in which the installation will be performed.

It is advisable to choose the floor covering from well-known manufacturers due to the good geometry of the panels.

It is not necessary to carry out the flooring from parquet panels in rooms with high traffic, for example, in the hallway, since the restoration of the floor will need to be done much more often than in the living room or bedroom.

Installation of parquet panels should be carried out at + 18-24˚C and humidity of about 30-60%. In this case, the floor covering will last a very long time.

Before starting work on the installation of the flooring, the parquet panels must be left for about 2 days in the room where the floor will be laid.

When laying the board, special gaps 10-15 mm wide are created near the walls for expansion joints, since the wood can expand with changes in humidity and temperature, and this measure will avoid swelling of the coating.

The locking connection between parquet boards can be greatly facilitated if the locks are lubricated with wax or paraffin impregnation. In this case, you should not use sealants.

Laying should start from the doorway, moving towards the window.

Following these simple tips will allow your parquet flooring to last as long as possible.

How much does installation cost?

The price for laying work largely depends on the method of installation and is about $ 9-10 per 1m² for a "floating" floor and for an adhesive option on a cement screed it will cost about $ 13-14 per 1m². This is due to the fact that additional materials are required for the adhesive installation method.

And in conclusion, we present to your attention a video lesson, which shows the entire technology of the stage-by-stage installation of a parquet board

When choosing a multi-layer wood flooring, buyers often pay attention to its operational life. At the same time, all manufacturers, without exception, indicate that the finishing material will really last this period only if the rules for laying the parquet board are observed.

The developers of such well-known factories as Chers, Barlinek, Tarket and others are trying to improve their product, working in many respects not only on the appearance, but also on the stacking system. In order to significantly speed up and facilitate the installation process, new locking kits are being developed. Today the following types can be distinguished:

Classic tongue-and-groove or Lock tongue-and-groove connection.
Click hitch - joining the planks at an angle of 10-30 °, followed by pressing to fasten the slats together.
5G system - volumetric fixation. Its names and basic characteristics may vary, but in general the principle is the same - an additional insert or "tongue" made of dense PVC, aluminum is built into the end lock. This component gives the hitch rigidity and strength, prevents seasonal divergence of the planks, and increases the service life of the coating.

How the parquet board is laid correctly depends on the type of locking system. Each package of high-quality flooring material always has detailed installation instructions that answer all the questions of a novice or experienced craftsman.

Let us dwell on the methods of assembling a multilayer wooden coating. Includes:

"Floating" (independent). The floor is assembled exclusively with its own locks, without fastening to the base. This is the best option if you plan to lay the parquet board with your own hands.
Kleeva. One-component elastic compounds based on polymer (polyurethane, MS and others) are used. The adhesive is applied to any type of screed, including cement and dry prefabricated chipboard, OSB, plywood, etc.
For fasteners. It is used to rigidly fix each plank to the base. In this case, you need special "parquet" (finishing) hardware, pneumatic pins (complete with a pneumatic gun) or classic dowel-nails.

The parquet board laying pattern is standard - with an offset of 1/3. That is, each subsequent row is shifted relative to the previous one by a third of the bar length. This will make it possible to form a strong, reliable and durable circular "strapping" of all lamellas.

How to lay a parquet board: starting with the basics

The quality of installation of parquet flooring directly depends on how carefully the base is prepared. Criteria:

Floors formed over the ground;
Logs, if there are too damp or warm rooms under the base base (boiler room, boiler room, laundry room, basement, etc.);
Water, soft electric or infrared heating systems;
Aerated concrete beams.

The features of laying parquet boards are not limited to this list. It is imperative to take into account that:

Advice! Remember that beech or maple floors are subject to active deformation, so they should not be placed on a warm floor system.

You will need the following materials and tools for laying your parquet board:

Laying parquet boards with your own hands: step by step instructions

Let's describe the installation process in stages.

Preparation of the base

First of all, all old coatings are completely removed, without exception. If, according to the results of measurements, leveling of the floor is required, then for mineral bases you can use:

Self-leveling self-leveling floors on a cement-gypsum or gypsum base;
Dry prefabricated screed made of sheet materials (plywood, chipboard and others).

The finished base is checked for evenness with a control rod more than 2 m long, with a hygrometer for moisture. If the base defects are small, then they are filled with quick-drying repair compounds or a cement-sand mixture.

The screed must be primed before work:

Adhesives, if gluing of a parquet board is supposed;
Reinforcing compositions, if the coating is laid in a "floating" way.

For a wooden base, the scheme of work is slightly different. Irregularities (drops, "humps") should be cut or eliminated with a parquet grinder. Pits, chips must be leveled with elastic fillers, and in the presence of squeaks - "pull" the subfloor to the base with screws or nails. In case of multiple defects, it is better to form a new prefabricated screed from chipboard or plywood sheets with a thickness of 16 mm or more. The top is treated with a fungicidal primer.

Preparation for work

After the end of the "wet" work, a waterproofing and backing material is placed on the prepared surface under the parquet board. That is, the film is spread over the floor neatly, without creases, with an overlap of 15-25 cm, fixed with adhesive tape. Then a sheet or roll substrate is already laid end-to-end. This step is skipped for adhesive installation.

Since the parquet board must "acclimatize", the packed material must be kept indoors for 24 to 36 hours. Experts recommend before starting installation work to warm up the floor heating system for 2 weeks, then turn it off 3-4 hours before installation. This will create the correct indoor climate and avoid thermal damage to the finish.

Advice! Wood is a natural product, therefore variations in shade and texture are possible. Do not be afraid of this, it is better to wrap it up to your advantage - to open several packages in advance, lay out the lamellas on the base and form a picture that is beautiful in your opinion.

The next step is to take careful floor measurements and plan the work. To lay the parquet board as evenly as possible, draw a scaled layout on a piece of paper. The width of the last row should not be less than 5 cm. In this case, it is necessary to displace the first in proportion.

Installation of flooring

Floating installation starts from the longest wall from left to right. Expansion wedges are placed around the perimeter. Some experts recommend doing this after assembling the first three rows: the finished coating is shifted with a bracket and spacers are inserted into the resulting gaps.

The assembly itself begins with the protruding part of the lock cut off at the strips of the first row, then the first is installed in the corner and installation along the end edge begins. The edge plate is trimmed if necessary. The next row is formed from the remainder of the previous lamella. For a parquet board of a classic Click-lock, end couplings are first connected, then docking is performed along the length with the obligatory tamping with a percussion block.

Note that it is much more convenient to work with Lock and 5G connections. They can be docked as needed both longitudinally and across, which is demonstrated in the video below.

For some types of volumetric locks, it is not required to additionally adjust the plastic insert. It is enough to correctly snap the plates.

The last row of boards must be carefully sized (cut), then assembled at the end locks and inserted into the gap between the wall and the extreme row. The laid parquet must be pressed with a metal bracket or a squeeze.

If the edge of the strip rests against a pipe or other similar obstacle, then a cut line is marked with a pencil, a piece is sawn off, a hole is drilled with a compensation margin of at least 10-16 mm. The lamella is put in place, an adhesive is applied to the cut and the cut element is glued.

After the assembly is completed, the wedges must be removed, the floor heating system must be turned on, gradually increasing the temperature, and the decorative plinth and thresholds in the doors must be mounted. The formation of gaps in the openings between rooms is not a whim, but a requirement of manufacturers.

When installing a parquet board with the glue method, the order of work will be slightly different:

Apply adhesive to the prepared substrate and spread evenly with a notched trowel.
Cut off the edge of the boards of the first row.
Assemble the coating in a standard manner, tapping with a bar and loading it with a load for better adhesion, or fixing with hardware that "drives" into the locking groove at an angle of 45 °. In the same way, the parquet is fastened to the base with nails or pins of a pneumatic gun without an adhesive compound.

After completing all the work, many manufacturers recommend rinsing the floor with special products for parquet and parquet boards, so that the wax contained in them reliably seals all the joints.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be performed and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms to your mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It is FREE and non-binding.

The creation of flooring using parquet modules is becoming popular. Laying this material requires special skills, a new level of wood processing technology has brought parquet flooring to the leaders of the construction market. By adhering to the instructions, you can complete it on your own, skillfully handling a specific tool.

Required materials and tools

Before starting work on the installation of a popular floor, prepare the required tools:

electric jigsaw;
convenient hammer;
building corner dl. 40 cm;
pencil;
roulette;
block for fitting parquet flooring;
wedges for limiting;
metal bracket;
hacksaw for wood;
drill;
angle cutter.

Laying sequence

The parquet module is made as a multilayer product from several types of wood, placing them in layers. The material should be purchased from a manufacturer who practices the assembly and repair of such floor coverings. Since it is unprofitable for them to sell in advance a low-quality product, then problems will arise when completing the floor. There are a large number of sites on the Internet that offer step-by-step instructions for creating a wooden flooring on your own.

Floor preparation

Parquet flooring scheme

Before installing new flooring, tidy up the base floor. Parquet can be mounted on an old wooden floor or concrete screed. In the case of a wooden covering, check for the possibility of failures, damage, etc. In case of discrepancies, it is required to apply a putty, and then putty.

In case of bulky damage, the old flooring should be disposed of. A worn-out wooden floor is carefully disassembled, cleaning the surface of the remaining debris and chips. If the surface is a concrete screed, thoroughly sweep it before proceeding with further measures.

When the subfloor is ready, work begins on the installation of wooden modules.

Soundproofing flooring

Before starting work on joining parquet, you need to:

Check the horizontal level of the rough slab with a building level.
Install soundproofing.

The underlay must be installed to separate the underside of the wood from the concrete floor. This material has multipurpose functionality:

smoothes out defects and unevenness of the rough screed;
protects parquet from moisture;
maintains the thermal insulation of the room;
absorbs while walking.

When the temperature in the room changes during the seasons, some deformation of the wooden products and the lower floor occurs, but the materials expand unevenly, therefore the substrate is a kind of barrier between them.

The following are used as insulation:

cork sheets;
cardboard with the addition of felt;
shredded pressed polystyrene foam.

These materials additionally serve as sound insulation. To enhance adhesion, glue is good, which must be applied to the subfloor and rolled with a roller.

Remember! Excessive amount of glue causes the substrate to swell, which will not allow further work.

Before starting the filling work, it is necessary to measure the floor with a tape measure. This is necessary to calculate the number of parquet boards. After the preparatory measures, do-it-yourself laying of the parquet board begins.

Styling process

When laying parquet, it turns out beautifully if you orient them in opposite directions, but more often they are oriented along the long side of the wall. A design technique has been developed that visually expands or lengthens the room: a certain direction of the wooden module. With the correct layout, the parquet is oriented in relation to the light. The diagonal arrangement is beautiful, but a lot of waste remains.

Apply with a notched trowel a thin layer of glue - 0.5 cm. The parquet must be installed along the long wall of the room, the first parquet plank is placed in the corner using retaining wedges 6-8 mm thick. These gaps provide compensation for the expansion of the parquet in the warm season. Along the wall, lay the parquet flooring end-to-end, cut the last to the required size, leaving a gap.

The next row starts from the extreme module of the second row. In the case of assembling the modules according to the drawing, trimming of the parquet flooring will be required. The latest types of parquet are equipped with interlocking joints, so they attach a new board to the already laid one at an angle of no more than 20 degrees, pressing forward and downward. A rubber mallet is used to increase the dynamics. It is required to obtain a reliable connection of the locks of the parquet fragments. Each row at the joint with the wall is fixed with a wedge.

When the flooring is finished, you can gently remove the wedges along the walls and remove any excess insulation sticking out above the floor between the tree and the wall.

This mounting method is called glueless. Another common method is the glue method, which is based on applying the glue mixture to the subfloor. This method:

used when working on a large floor area;
requires serious attitude and attention;
the accuracy of the work.

If it is necessary to replace the damaged parquet flooring in the future, you will have to tinker and change not one, but 2-3 neighboring modules. When laying parquet fragments, unexpected obstacles, such as fragments of the heating system or wall protrusions, come across. You can cut out sections of parquet boards using an electric jigsaw with a blade for woodworking.

In order not to spoil its appearance during the operation of the wooden covering, soft material is glued to the furniture legs.

Installation of skirting boards

Installation of skirting boards is the last stage of creating a floor covering, when the laying of a parquet board is completed with your own hands. Fastening the plinth fragments should be done with special parts - clamps. First, you must carefully remove the protruding parts of the substrate and sound insulation. The step of installing the cleats with self-tapping screws is 45-50 cm, but it is correct to leave 20 cm lengths from the corner.

If the wooden board was glued, wait 24 hours for the glue to dry completely before installing the skirting boards.

There are two known options for attaching the plinth: to the floor or to the wall - the choice of installation depends on the quality of the material and the type of subfloor.

Conclusion

The most expensive and durable parquet products can be irreparably damaged by an incorrect and illiterate installation. Payment for the installation of parquet modules by a professional team will be expensive, to do the work yourself - to save the family budget. Installing a parquet board on your own is not difficult, you need to carefully study the step-by-step instructions and follow it. Every work has some specific subtleties and nuances.

In order to increase the service life of a wooden parquet flooring, there are general rules for the maintenance of such a floor.

The parquet board has become a replacement for the well-known parquet. Much cheaper and easier to install. However, the latter is not entirely true. Yes, installation of a parquet board is easier, but this does not mean that installation will not take time and effort. It can also be screwed up here, resulting in spoiled material. The correct technology for laying parquet boards is the guarantee of a high-quality floor covering. We will analyze how to properly lay the material in the article.

Before buying a material, you need to know its advantages and disadvantages. What are the advantages of a parquet board? The board reaches two meters in length, there is no need to lay small separate boards. Previously, planks were made on the basis of two layers, but now manufacturers have begun to produce three-layer material, so it is much stronger and tougher.

All three layers are made on the basis of natural wood, which means that the material has all the advantages of wood. Absolutely environmentally friendly and safe, suitable for installation in the nursery.

The planks are fastened to each other in a locking way, like a laminate. If you compare these two materials, you can find flaws here and there. A more durable and wear-resistant laminate. But only the class starting with marking 3. If you are planning to buy a class with marking 2, then there is no difference.

The decorative properties of parquet always remain at their best. The beautiful appearance of the wood flooring will delight you for a long time. Over time, the material will not lose its external data, if properly looked after.
However, when decorating the interior, the parquet board will not suit every style. Wooden floors rarely fit into modern stylistic trends, they are more suitable for classic ones.

Has a parquet board and cons. One of the biggest drawbacks is the fear of temperature changes. Like any material made of natural wood, the plank reacts to changes in air temperature: in summer, the board dries up, and in winter it swells.
Gaps may form, which will have to be disposed of. The board will not withstand heavy loads. Therefore, it is not recommended to put heavy furniture on it, so as not to damage the material. At the same time, the board is afraid of cleaning with chemicals and moisture.
Of course, if you have the means to buy a particularly durable material with a coating of various kinds of protective compounds, then the board is quite suitable, but if your budget is limited and you do not want to spend neither time nor money on surface care, it is better to abandon the board in the benefits of laminate.
Boards, according to their type, are divided into three types: select, nature and rustic. Select is suitable for those who like perfectly flat and smooth surfaces. You will not find any defects on the board. In this case, the texture of the board is monochromatic.

Natur board has a wide range of colors. If a standard wooden pattern does not fit your interior, then you can choose this type. But you can find knots on it. Rustic is suitable for a certain interior. This type is tailored to the specific design because the board will be uneven with knots and cracks. It is more suitable for decorating your own house in a rustic style than for an apartment.
There are two ways to install a parquet board: floating and glued. The latter is rarely used. This option is possible only if the board is installed directly on the concrete surface. This will significantly reduce the life of the material.

Boards are also laid on glue in rooms with high humidity. Thus, the joints are completely sealed and water will not penetrate under the material. But putting the board in the kitchen is a dubious undertaking.

Laying parquet boards with your own hands

Installation of a parquet board is not very much, but still differs from the installation of materials of this type. It has its own peculiarities, which cannot be neglected. Therefore, do not use “general” installation guides, but always follow the installation instructions for a specific material.

Purchase of material

The choice of parquet boards is not limited to color and texture. It is also important to choose the type of wood. The modern market has more than fifty different options. Moreover, the quality will also differ depending on the type of wood. Buy material from trusted sellers. It is easier to order through firms that themselves establish they have no marriage.

When choosing a color, give preference to light colors. Scratches and other defects will not be visible on such a coating. If you still want a dark board, go for a matte finish. Gloss undoubtedly looks expensive and luxurious, but the slightest imperfections will be visible on the surface. And over time, such are formed in any case.
If you are going to install a "warm floor" system under the board, then this is quite possible. But you cannot use wood varieties that absorb moisture. You perform the installation of the system entirely at your own peril and risk. Check the board for cracks at the joints. Defects on the surface are left on purpose, but no deviations along the edge of the board are allowed. Check everything thoroughly.

Preparation of the base

Preparing the floor for a parquet board is one of the most important stages. The appearance of the cladding depends on how carefully you carry out the preparation work. Often the reason for the deformation of the flooring is precisely the improper preparation of the base.
First of all, the base must be leveled. Small deviations are allowed, not exceeding 2 mm per linear meter. If the irregularities are visible to the naked eye, then the screed will have to be poured.
If it is already there, then check its quality.

Small holes and cracks can be repaired with putty, but in case of large damage, the old material must be removed and filled in with a new one.

After leveling, be sure to check the moisture content of the concrete base. This can be done using a special device or the old-fashioned way: a film is glued to the tape and left for a day. If no condensation has formed, then the humidity level is normal.
If you are installing a new floor on a wooden subfloor, check the old flooring for cracks and holes. Small cracks can be covered with putty, and in large cracks a plank is placed according to the size of the hole and sealed with the same putty. Some people advise using a sealant, but it can crack afterwards.

Laying the underlay

A problem with many floor coverings is the need to lay the underlayment. The cost of the material can reach the price of the facing coating. At the same time, it is not profitable to use cheap analogs, because the substrate must withstand the same service life as the cladding. Before laying the substrate, it makes sense to lay a layer of waterproofing. Ordinary film is suitable for it. The sheets are laid with an overlap of 15 cm and with an approach to the wall, and they are fastened together with adhesive tape.

The substrate acts as an additional guarantor of the protection of the facing material. It can take over itself into the water if it gets on the material, hides small irregularities in the base. And most importantly, the substrate does not allow the bar to rub against the base, which increases its service life.

Alternatively, you can use expanded polystyrene from inexpensive options. The best quality material is cork sheets, but their cost is high. Substrate fits end-to-end, no overlaps. Covers the entire perimeter of the floor. For fixing to the base, double-sided tape is suitable, which is glued at the junction of two sheets. The underlay does not fit under the adhesive.

Installation of flooring

Floating method

The answer to the question of how to lay a parquet board depends on the chosen installation method. Floating installation starts from the opposite corner from the door. In this case, the planks are laid along a long wall. Before work, install wedges with a gap of 1 cm. This is necessary so that the board has a move in case it dries up. The slots will then be closed with baseboards.

The first plank is installed with its back to the wall. The second is attached to the lock to the feather. At the same time, you will hear a characteristic click - it means that the lock has clicked into place. This is how the entire row fits. The last plank usually needs to be trimmed.

The next row is linked to the previous one. At the same time, it also needs to be docked with the already installed bar of the new row. Different manufacturers make different mechanisms. Somewhere you need to first insert the strips of the previous row into the groove, and somewhere you need to dock with the board in the row. Read the instructions carefully.
Thus, the entire floor is filled. After the boards are installed, the wedges are pulled out. If you laid the film, then it is cut off and skirting boards are placed.

Glue method

Installation is carried out on a special adhesive for a parquet board. In this case, the backing is not installed. The adhesive is applied to the substrate with a notched trowel. Spread it evenly over the floor area. The planks are then simply laid on the glue, and the excess is rubbed off. Such a floor should not be walked on until the composition is completely dry.

Sometimes the parquet board is laid on logs. The technology is completely identical to laying a conventional wooden floor. But this option is only suitable for boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm.

But since parquet is not the most durable material, this method is rarely used.

The range of floor coverings is regularly updated with new products. Often these are modern materials created using the achievements of the chemical industry, but there are also solutions that can be described as "well forgotten old". A striking example is parquet board. In terms of its aesthetic appeal, durability and reliability, it is comparable to parquet, but laying a parquet board is simple and does not require high qualifications of the worker.

Parquet board, what is it

Parquet board as a type of flooring appeared in the early 40s of the last century. It was created as a cheap and practical replacement for expensive and demanding parquet flooring. Today she is experiencing a rebirth. The main reason for this is absolute environmental safety, because the coating is made exclusively from natural wood.

Externally, a parquet board looks like a familiar laminate, but differs from it in its internal structure. If you look at it in section, you can see three layers of boards of different thicknesses, the direction of the fibers of each of which is perpendicular to the previous one. This design ensures the strength and reliability of the material.

Upper layer

The top (front) layer primarily creates the floor pattern. The lamellas from which it is assembled are selected according to the pattern, shade and texture, the boards are selected without defects and damage. Some types of boards are covered with veneer of valuable species. It is, in a sense, a piece product that allows you to create a luxurious and unique floor without much investment.

In addition to its purely decorative function, the surface is abrasion resistant and resistant to constant pressure. That is why the top ball is made of hardwood, the layer thickness reaches 4 mm or more.

An additional advantage of the material is that it is completely ready for installation and operation. The front side is sanded from the factory, impregnated with protective compounds and varnished. All that is required from the consumer is to prepare the subfloor and properly lay the covering.

Middle layer

The job of the middle layer is to evenly distribute the load. The best material for this is coniferous wood. Longitudinal fibers impart flexural strength to the material, which ensures the durability and reliability of the coating as a whole.

The middle layer is assembled from planks with a thickness of about 7 mm. The width of each of them is up to 30 mm, the bag is assembled with glue. Among other things, connection elements are formed in the middle layer, thanks to which the installation of the parquet board will be carried out.

bottom layer

The entire puff cake rests on a substrate. These are one or two solid boards up to 4 mm thick, laid along the long side, which provide stability and prevent the floor from sagging under pressure.

Advantages and disadvantages

There is no perfect material, parquet board is no exception. If you are going to lay this coating, you should familiarize yourself with its main advantages and disadvantages.

You need to start with the obvious advantages:

absolute ecological cleanliness;
a skillfully laid board is comparable to parquet in appearance and characteristics;
the board is much cheaper than parquet;
just fits, no experience and knowledge required;
allows the possibility of replacing a section of the floor without completely dismantling it;
does not require subsequent surface treatment, scraping, varnishing;
on sale a wide range of textures and colors.

With good care, the service life of the coating is 20-30 years. This can be attributed to the disadvantages, because the same parquet will last much longer. True, the obvious advantages outweigh this conventional disadvantage. And besides everything, the parquet board can be laid with your own hands, but for the parquet you will definitely have to invite specialists.

Preparing the subfloor

Parquet board is not too picky about the base material. It can be installed with equal success on a leveled screed, on a wood or plywood base, moreover, it can be used to renovate an old ceramic tile floor. The only condition is that the base must be reliable and always even.

In any case, before laying the tiles, you need to perform a number of preparatory work. First, you should visually and using a simple building level to assess the quality of the floor. Identify problem areas, take measures to level the surface. The hills are smoothed out, the cracks are expanded and sealed with concrete, and the depressions are poured with it.

Note! Such "patching" repair is possible only if the surface is close to ideal, and the height difference does not exceed 2–2.5 mm per square meter. Otherwise, you will have to think about creating a new sub-floor.

The easiest way is to prepare a base for a parquet board using self-leveling compounds. It is easy to work with them, it is enough to dissolve the mixture in water, following the instructions, and pour the solution in an even layer, of course, not forgetting about waterproofing.

You can also consider using wood-based sheet material. For this, multi-layer plywood, chipboard or OSB sheets are excellent. With the help of such a material, you can create a new floor on the logs or patch up an old one, strong enough, but with a large difference in height.

The concrete floor must be primed and allowed to dry. A backing must be laid between the base and the board. Cork seems to be the best material for these purposes. It will smooth out possible unevenness of the base, help keep warm in the house and protect from noisy neighbors.

Preparation for laying the coating

The technology of laying a parquet board is not particularly difficult, even a novice master can cope with this matter, but in any case, it is easier to work with an assistant. And yet, before getting down to business, it is worth preparing the tool. You will need:

hand or electric saw;
a hammer with a rubber head;
level and plastic rule;
spatulas (even and notched);
tape measure, square, pencil;
screwdriver;
bracket for pulling up the rows.

In addition to the tool, you need to prepare the room itself. It will not be superfluous to once again walk on the floor with a vacuum cleaner, pay special attention to the corners, an accidental pebble can ruin the whole work.

Ways of installing a parquet board

As soon as the tool is assembled, and the scope of work is prepared, you can proceed directly to the installation. It is worth mentioning here that there are three main styling methods:

floating;
fastening with glue;
using additional fasteners.

According to the method of laying, there is a longitudinal and diagonal method. When laying longitudinally, the boards are placed parallel to the wall, moving in the direction of the door, in the second case, diagonally from one of the corners. The longitudinal method is simpler, there is not much waste left in the process of work, but the diagonal one looks more impressive.

Floating styling

The peculiarity of the floating installation is that the boards are not attached to the floor. The rigidity and immobility of the coating is achieved only thanks to reliable locking joints. It is from this that all the pros and cons of such a configuration emerge:

easy to lay;
it is easy to correct mistakes made in the course of work;
it is easy to replace several damaged boards;
it is possible to dismantle the floor and literally move it to another room;
the coating is immune to changes in humidity and temperature;
saving on adhesive composition.

As disadvantages, it is worth noting the need for careful leveling of the subfloor, limitation on surface area, you should not use this method if the room is more than 50 square meters. Also, you cannot lay the board in a similar way in a room where a high load on the floor is expected.

Step-by-step instructions for carrying out the work are as follows.

First, the board is laid along the longest wall of the room, from left to right. A part of the castle is cut off from the board, which will face the wall. Collect a full row, cut the edge board in place.
The covering should recede from the walls by 10-15 mm, in order to achieve this, spacer wedges are used. Many recommend completely collecting three rows before installing them, after putting the wedges and using a bracket to pull the finished canvas, setting it in the desired position. Boards of each subsequent row are laid with a shift, if necessary, selecting a pattern.
The following rows are sequentially collected, if necessary, the canvas is knocked out with light blows of a rubber hammer. The end row is the most difficult to fit. Each plank must be precisely adjusted in width, and it is important not to forget to leave a gap at the edge to compensate for thermal expansion.

As soon as the covering is completely laid, the wedges are removed, the skirting boards and door sills are installed. It is advisable to turn on underfloor heating or any heating device to raise the temperature in the room and the board sits in place.

Glue mounting

The essence of this method is reflected in its name - the parquet board is glued to the base using special adhesives. This method is more laborious, but it also has a number of significant advantages:

there is no limitation on the area and purpose of the premises;
can be used in conjunction with a water-heated floor.

But this is a laborious installation, and in the future it will be problematic to correct the mistakes made, to replace the damaged area. The floor will be more expensive due to the need to purchase glue. Before starting operation, you will have to wait for the glue to harden.

It is worth noting that you need to buy the right glue, the composition of which is suitable for the specific board chosen. In addition, you need to work extremely carefully to prevent glue from getting on the front side of the coating.

As in the first case, the installation is carried out along the longest wall. Before applying the glue, the board is laid out, the extreme one is cut off to get a full-fledged row.

A layer of glue 80–100 mm wide is applied to the prepared surface, which exceeds the width of the board. The adhesive is evenly spread over the area using a notched trowel.

Spacer wedges are placed between the first row and the wall. Planks are laid, they must be joined immediately using lock joints. Each laid plank is pressed down for a better grip. After laying the entire row, it must be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws. They are screwed at an angle into the grooves of the lock.

The operation is repeated. Apply glue, lay the next row with a shift of half or a third of the length. First, the ends of adjacent boards are connected, then they are attached to the previous row. If a gap has formed, you need to get rid of it immediately, move the row using a wooden block and a hammer.

The finished coating is left for several days until the glue is completely dry. After that, the plinth and thresholds are mounted. It will not be superfluous to treat the floor with a special compound that will fill the joints and create a perfectly flat surface.

Mounting using additional hardware

The third option is ideal for creating a floor on a wooden base. These can be logs, plywood or OSB base, old floorboards. A feature of the method is that each board is attached to the base using self-tapping screws or staples.

The optimal floor, created using this method, seems to be a structure on the logs. The advantages of this approach are obvious - heat-insulating or sound-insulating materials can be laid in the space between the beams.

The parquet board can be laid directly on the joists; in this case, you need to choose a thick (at least 22 mm) material. Logs should lie at a short distance from each other (less than 0.5 m). The board is fastened across the log, the joints should be located in the middle of the log.

There is another way to create a floor on logs, it will take more time, but it will help save on material. An additional plus can be considered the fact that the owners are not limited to simple longitudinal installation, you can lay the board diagonally, creating complex patterns, for example, a "herringbone". In this case, plywood sheets with a total thickness of about 20 mm are attached directly to the logs, and already a parquet board is attached to it. This greatly simplifies the installation work and removes the restriction on the thickness of the board.

Parquet board is a good choice for a beautiful and practical flooring. The board is perfect for a stylish apartment and a country house. It is easy to work with it, its installation does not require special equipment and skills, even a beginner can handle it. The parquet board is not so expensive, and the trowels are laid out, it will in no way yield to the noble parquet.