What plants are tomatoes compatible with? What can be the beds. Undesirable neighborhood for vegetables

Many gardeners approach the cultivation of vegetables, herbs and fruits with great responsibility. They observe all agricultural practices, use all modern preparations and fertilizers for the best results, constantly fight weeds and pests. But sometimes, despite the maximum amount of effort, the harvest is not encouraging. Why is it so? There is also such a thing as the compatibility of vegetables. This is a very important factor that must be taken into account.

The Importance of Vegetable Compatibility

When in the garden, it is very important to take into account the proximity of plants and know the predecessors. Many cultures are incompatible and can oppress each other. The size of the plants and their way of growing also play an important role. Given all these factors, it is possible to use the garden area more rationally, which is especially important when it is small.

landing plan

Focusing on the compatibility of vegetables, you need to draw up a planting plan in advance. It is better to start compiling it in winter period before field work. Miscellaneous parts land plot may vary in fertility. This should also be taken into account when distributing crops. Among plants there are strong consumers of nutrients and weak ones. They need to be replaced periodically. The ripening time for all vegetables is different. This can be used for rational use land so that it does not stand idle. But the most important factor is He has a very strong influence on the future harvest. Therefore, using the information from this article, plan future plantings taking into account all factors.

Nutrient requirements of vegetables

The nutrient requirements of plants greatly affect the compatibility of vegetables. This indicator is different for all cultures. All plants can be divided into three conditional categories. Strong consumers are vegetables that require a lot of nitrogen. These include almost all chard, tomatoes, onions, zucchini, peppers, pumpkins and cucumbers. Average consumers are carrots, radishes, kohlrabi, potatoes, beets, eggplant, field lettuce, chicory, spinach, and head lettuce. And, finally, peas, radishes, herbs, beans and spices are weak consumers of nutrients. When arranging vegetables in the garden, this factor must be taken into account and arranged depending on the saturation of the site and the predecessor. This will help increase productivity.

Carrot

Carrots are found in our areas very often. Almost every gardener grows this crop. When planting it, you must also take into account the compatibility of vegetables. So, carrots grow well next to peas, radishes, spinach and lettuce. This vegetable gets along very well next to some (leek, onion and perennial). These two vegetables protect each other from pests. It is undesirable to plant carrots next to parsley, dill and celery. Very often, dill is sown on its own, it is worth planting it once on the site. But for carrots, this is an undesirable neighborhood. Therefore, it is better to remove it from the garden and use it for its intended purpose.

eggplant

The vegetable compatibility table (see below) is very important for every gardener, especially a beginner. Subsequently, with experience, knowledge about the characteristics of each culture will come. Eggplant is another common vegetable. It grows well next to crops such as beans, peppers, peas. Do not plant eggplant next to cucumbers. It's not a very good neighborhood. There are conflicting opinions about contact during growth with other nightshade crops. Some fairly experienced gardeners believe that such a neighborhood is appropriate and gives excellent results. The opinion of others is just the opposite. They believe that next to other nightshades leads to poor harvests.

beans

If we consider the compatibility of vegetables in the garden, then the best neighbors for many crops are beans. They repel Colorado beetles. Also, beans, thanks to accumulate a sufficient amount of nitrogen on their roots and enrich the soil. Potatoes, corn, cucumbers, spinach, radishes and radishes get along well next to them. However, beans should be planted along the perimeter of the area with potatoes. In turn, next to the beans, it is necessary to place basil, which will become a protection for them from grains.

Cabbage

Cabbage is a very good neighbor for many crops, so finding a place for it on the site is quite simple. Next to it, you can plant carrots, beets, beans, celery, cucumbers, beans, strawberries, leeks and tomatoes. It is undesirable to place white and red cabbage in the neighborhood.

Parsley and dill take root very well next to this vegetable. Kohlrabi is a special kind of cabbage. It is planted next to asparagus, peas, radishes, potatoes and beans. It is undesirable to place kohlrabi with horseradish, garlic and tomatoes on the same bed.

Cucumbers and zucchini

Zucchini and cucumbers are considered related plants. However, there are also some differences. The compatibility of cucumbers with other vegetables is slightly different from the compatibility of zucchini. Cucumbers get along well with peas, beans, beets, onions, cabbage, kohlrabi, fennel, basil and dill. It is not recommended to plant this vegetable with eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, radishes, watercress and radishes. For zucchini, lettuce, spinach, beans, onions and peas will be excellent allies in the garden. You should not place them next to tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, parsley, pumpkin and radishes. The compatibility of growing vegetables is very important for a good harvest. As you can see, related crops, zucchini and cucumbers, do not get along well with each other.

Onion

The best neighbor for onions is carrots. These two vegetables protect each other from pests. That's why experienced gardeners traditionally they are planted side by side. The compatibility of onions with other vegetables is of interest to many gardeners. Good allies for onions are lettuce, cucumbers and beets. It is undesirable to place beans, asparagus, legumes and watercress next to this vegetable. Only leeks are friends with beans. The compatibility of vegetables in the greenhouse is the same as in the garden.

Greenery

Dill can coexist well with many crops. It usually self-seeds and is found throughout the site. However, it is better to remove it from the carrot bed, as this is not the best union. Basil - best neighbor for tomatoes. It also gets along well with beans, cucumbers, some types of lettuce, fennel, onions, squash, and corn. But with dill and marjoram, it coexists badly. In turn, marjoram can be placed next to onions, carrots, spinach and turnips. A bad neighbor for him is, in addition to basil, fennel.

Peppers, radishes, turnips, radishes and beets

Any kind of pepper can be planted next to tomatoes, thyme, basil, eggplant and kohlrabi. The compatibility of vegetables in the garden, the table of which will be the best help to any gardener, is very important. For pepper, beets, beans and fennel will be a bad ally in the garden. Beets can be planted with dill, lettuce, zucchini and onions. Among the many types of onions, the opposite for this vegetable are only perennial varieties. Radish and radish can be located next to green onion, watercress, carrots, parsley, tomatoes, spinach and lettuce. They do not get along well with horseradish, cucumbers, basil and zucchini. Delicious turnips can be planted alongside marjoram, watercress, celery, radishes, and spinach. She does not get along well with tomatoes and cabbage.

tomatoes

Tomato is one of the main vegetables in the garden. Basil is considered his best companion. It also gets along well with beans, dill, carrots, onions, radishes, celery and lettuce. Not the best place to plant this crop is the area where potatoes, peas, grapes, zucchini, cucumbers and fennel grow. If these requirements are met, then the yield can be much higher.

Pumpkin

It is impossible not to say about this culture. It is often grown in home gardens and mistakenly placed next to zucchini. As a result, a crop grows, which is characterized by low taste. These two vegetables are simply pollinated. It is better to plant a pumpkin next to beans, peas or legumes. But the best option is a separate area that is unsuitable for planting other plants (for example, a compost heap). The growth of pumpkins is badly affected by the neighborhood with potatoes, peppers and eggplants. It is also undesirable to plant cucumbers and tomatoes nearby.

Conclusion

Grow plants on personal plot not so difficult. But what the harvest will be depends on many factors, including the proximity of crops to each other. The compatibility of vegetables in the garden, the table of which should always be at hand for any gardener, will help to achieve excellent results. In conjunction with the timely implementation of all necessary agrotechnical measures correct location plants will lead to higher yields. Plant, grow and enjoy the fruits of your labors!

The Importance of Vegetable Compatibility

When planting plants in the garden, it is very important to take into account the proximity of plants and know the predecessors. Many cultures are incompatible and can oppress each other. The size of the plants and their way of growing also play an important role. Given all these factors, it is possible to use the garden area more rationally, which is especially important when it is small.

landing plan

Focusing on the compatibility of vegetables, you need to draw up a planting plan in advance. It is better to start compiling it in the winter, before the onset of field work. Different parts of the land may differ in fertility. This should also be taken into account when distributing crops. Among plants there are strong consumers of nutrients and weak ones. They need to be replaced periodically. The ripening time for all vegetables is different. This can be used to rationally use the land so that it does not stand idle. But the most important factor is the compatibility of vegetables in the garden. It greatly affects the future harvest. Therefore, using the information from this article, plan future plantings taking into account all factors.

Nutrient requirements of vegetables

The nutrient requirements of plants greatly affect the compatibility of vegetables. This indicator is different for all cultures. All plants can be divided into three conditional categories. Strong consumers are vegetables that require a lot of nitrogen. These include almost all types of cabbage, chard, tomatoes, onions, zucchini, peppers, pumpkins and cucumbers. Average consumers are carrots, radishes, kohlrabi, potatoes, beets, eggplant, field lettuce, chicory, spinach, and head lettuce. And, finally, peas, radishes, herbs, beans and spices are weak consumers of nutrients. When arranging vegetables in the garden, this factor must be taken into account and arranged depending on the saturation of the site and the predecessor. This will help increase productivity.

Carrot

Carrots are found in our areas very often. Almost every gardener grows this crop. When planting it, you must also take into account the compatibility of vegetables. So, carrots grow well next to peas, radishes, spinach and lettuce. This vegetable gets along very well next to some types of onions (leek, onion and perennial). These two vegetables protect each other from pests. It is undesirable to plant carrots next to parsley, dill and celery. Very often, dill is sown on its own, it is worth planting it once on the site. But for carrots, this is an undesirable neighborhood. Therefore, it is better to remove it from the garden and use it for its intended purpose.

eggplant

beans

If we consider the compatibility of vegetables in the garden, then the best neighbors for many crops are beans. They repel Colorado beetles. Also, beans, thanks to nodule bacteria, accumulate a sufficient amount of nitrogen on their roots and enrich the soil. Potatoes, corn, cucumbers, spinach, radishes and radishes get along well next to them. However, beans should be planted along the perimeter of the area with potatoes. In turn, next to the beans, it is necessary to place basil, which will become a protection for them from grains.

Cabbage

Cucumbers and zucchini

Onion

The best neighbor for onions is carrots. These two vegetables protect each other from pests. Therefore, experienced gardeners traditionally plant them side by side. The compatibility of onions with other vegetables is of interest to many gardeners. Good allies for onions are gourds, lettuce, cucumbers and beets. It is undesirable to place beans, asparagus, legumes and watercress next to this vegetable. Only leeks are friends with beans. The compatibility of vegetables in the greenhouse is the same as in the garden.

Greenery

Dill can coexist well with many crops. It usually self-seeds and is found throughout the site. However, it is better to remove it from the carrot bed, as this is not the best union. Basil is the best neighbor for tomatoes. It also gets along well with beans, cucumbers, some types of lettuce, fennel, onions, squash, and corn. But with dill and marjoram, it coexists badly. In turn, marjoram can be placed next to onions, carrots, spinach and turnips. A bad neighbor for him is, in addition to basil, fennel.

Peppers, radishes, turnips, radishes and beets

Any kind of pepper can be planted next to tomatoes, thyme, basil, eggplant and kohlrabi. The compatibility of vegetables in the garden, the table of which will be the best help to any gardener, is very important. For pepper, beets, beans and fennel will be a bad ally in the garden. Beets can be planted with dill, lettuce, zucchini and onions. Among the many types of onions, only perennial varieties are the opposite for this vegetable. Radishes and radishes can be placed next to green onions, watercress, carrots, parsley, tomatoes, spinach and lettuce. They do not get along well with horseradish, cucumbers, basil and zucchini. Delicious turnips can be planted alongside marjoram, watercress, celery, radishes, and spinach. She does not get along well with tomatoes and cabbage.

tomatoes

Pumpkin

Conclusion

Growing plants in your backyard is not that difficult. But what the harvest will be depends on many factors, including the proximity of crops to each other. The compatibility of vegetables in the garden, the table of which should always be at hand for any gardener, will help to achieve excellent results. Together with the timely implementation of all necessary agrotechnical measures, the correct location of plants will allow you to get higher yields. Plant, grow and enjoy the fruits of your labors!

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Compatibility of vegetables in the greenhouse - the key to a rich harvest

Many experienced summer residents are well versed in the compatibility of vegetables and use this knowledge when planting to achieve a bountiful harvest.

Plants that require the same cultivation conditions can grow in the same greenhouse.

It is even more necessary to take into account the compatibility of plants in a greenhouse.

Indeed, in conditions of a limited enclosed space, even if it is possible to plant incompatible vegetables on different beds at a distance from each other, they still conflict. The competition is not only for water and nutrients coming from the soil. Some plants have a detrimental effect on neighboring substances that they emit.

Which plant do you prefer?

The use of a greenhouse in a country or personal plot has long justified itself. It is a reliable protection for early sowing seeds, a hotbed for tomatoes, peppers and eggplants, which will later find a place in the open field. Having a greenhouse, you can get more than one crop of greenery, save the crop of remontant raspberries, which are not allowed to ripen by the autumn frosts that have begun. You can grow any vegetables in it, it all depends on the preferences of the owners.

It is reasonable to sow radishes, dill and annual onions on greens in the spring, and after harvesting early greens, place tomatoes, eggplants and peppers there or occupy an area for cucumbers. Lovers of southern crops will certainly find a place in the greenhouse for melons and watermelons or plant grapes in it. Considering the compatibility of crops, even corn can be grown, with which legumes coexist well. But few manage to care for it due to the complex technology of pollination. Florists, most likely, will allocate the greenhouse area for decorative flowering plants.

Experts recommend not to rush to create assorted vegetables in the greenhouse, it is better to start the experiment with any one plant, since the technology of growing in open and closed ground is somewhat different. Vegetable crops planted in a greenhouse require much more attention and care. You need to first make sure that this idea is within your power.

Having acquired basic skills, you can try to grow 2-3 types of vegetables at the same time in a greenhouse. If the area of the site allows, then gardeners install several greenhouses. However, on a plot of 6 acres, when 2 of them are already occupied by a house, a front garden and outbuildings, this option is hardly possible.

Leaders of vegetable crops: tomatoes and cucumbers in one greenhouse

The option of planting cucumbers and tomatoes in one greenhouse is due to the lack of a seat, but does not give an impressive harvest.

The two most popular vegetables, without which the table is unthinkable, are cucumbers and tomatoes. During the summer season, gardeners try not only to grow them for fresh consumption, but also to stock up on canned fruits for the whole winter. These are usually the main greenhouse vegetables. If both vegetables are grown in large volumes for the purpose of sale, then it is better to allocate a separate greenhouse for each of them. But often amateur gardeners cannot decide which of them is more important, and place tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse.

This is also possible, but it is necessary to adapt the microclimate of the greenhouse for each vegetable, since their requirements for moisture, heat and ventilation are completely different. Cucumbers prefer a humid, warm climate, but avoid direct sunlight. They love this method of watering, like sprinkling, which tomatoes do not tolerate at all. In order for them to get along in the same greenhouse, they should be planted so that the plants do not touch each other at all.

If the greenhouse is long enough, then you can make a fence inside from polycarbonate, plywood or boards. But for this option, it is important that there are also two entrances. When the greenhouse is ventilated from the side of the tomatoes, this will not harm the cucumbers in any way. And when cucumbers are watered, tomato bushes will not suffer from water.

Many summer residents note that when planting tomatoes and cucumbers together, they suffer more tomatoes. Their harvest is significantly reduced. Therefore, the best option would be their separate existence.

If it is decided to use the greenhouse for tomatoes, then you can first plant all the seedlings in the 20th of May in the greenhouse as a nursery, and then leave some of the roots under cover. It can be early varieties for a quick harvest or, conversely, late tall varieties to increase the duration of fruiting. Everyone decides for himself. And cucumbers will feel comfortable separately - in the garden under a film cover.

Favorable Neighborhood

Peppers and eggplant are best suited for light, well-drained soils.

Nevertheless, tomatoes get along well with herbs in the form of dill, parsley, onions. If you sow radishes, lettuce, green onion to get a feather, then in May after them you can successfully place tomatoes, leaving some of the greenery. Asparagus beans have a beneficial effect on tomatoes, melons and watermelons will not interfere. But you should place them away from the draft, in the depths of the greenhouse.

Peppers and eggplant will do well with both cucumbers and tomatoes. Therefore, the following options are possible:

tomatoes, peppers, greens, melons, beans, peas;
cucumbers, peppers, eggplants, cabbage, zucchini, beans;
tomatoes, early cabbage, spices and greens.

However, the concept of greenery requires clarification. Onions get along well with many vegetables, but do not accept beans and peas. Beans, in turn, will not tolerate onions. Although friendly to most plants.

http://youtu.be/s6wU1Ix-gDo

Often, greenhouses are adapted for a multi-level berry from different varieties strawberries and strawberries. In this case, you need to consider that the berry will feel good surrounded by greens: onions, garlic, cucumbers. Cabbage is also favorable for these crops, but it does not tolerate berries.

A zucchini will get along with any neighbor, the microclimate of cucumbers is close to it, only it will need more space and airing more often. If pepper and eggplant are quite compatible, then eggplant should not be planted close to tomatoes. And it’s better not to plant it at all in the same greenhouse with tomatoes. But for peas, the substances coming from the tomato are very favorable, they accelerate its growth and development.

Features of growing vegetables in a greenhouse

Even if the plants are properly combined in the greenhouse and the compatibility of vegetables is taken into account, it is important to pay attention to the frequency of planting. Thickening is highly undesirable. If in open ground it is possible to form a standard tomato bush in 3-4 branches, then in a greenhouse it is desirable not more than 2, and tall varieties - only in one. Planting pepper is allowed quite densely, in a checkerboard pattern, but eggplants love space. So that, while growing, one plant does not obscure another, a lot of time must be devoted to the timely tying up of plants.

If this condition is not observed, then pests often start in the greenhouse, and it is not easy to get rid of them. It is necessary to maintain the level of humidity, the excess of which can seriously harm the tomatoes. Yes, and the soil must be carefully prepared, since there is no access to nutrients from the outside. There is also no access for insects that take care of timely pollination. Therefore, you should buy seeds designed specifically for greenhouses. Tomatoes, peppers and eggplants are self-pollinating. But not all varieties of cucumbers are like that.

In regions with unpredictable weather in May and early June, it would be good to take care of emergency heating. In case the seedlings have already been planted, and the sun is not enough and there is a threat of frost.

http://youtu.be/IX7J1o2WMXU

Compatibility vegetable crops, well-chosen plants will contribute to better growth each other and fruitfulness. As practice shows, productivity increases by 20-25% when there is a favorable neighborhood.

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Plant compatibility. What to plant with what in the garden?

Joint planting of plants, taking into account their compatibility, allows you to increase the yield. In case of their incompatibility - yields are reduced. The NN Mom website has compiled a plant compatibility list that will tell you what to plant with what and how to sow the garden to be good harvest.

Fruit change. What to plant in the garden?

Fruit change will help eliminate one-sided depletion of the soil. The plant is returned to the place where it grew no earlier than after 3-4 years. There are exceptions: tomato, beans, strawberries, potatoes - they can grow in the same place for years.

To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants alternate depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form, you can alternate "tops" and "roots" (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).

After the bow and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended.

After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.

After cucumbers, zucchini, squash planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, potatoes.

After carrots, dill, parsley, celery plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.

After strawberries (after 4 years)- root crops and legumes, next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, any crop can be planted.

The best predecessors of the main vegetable crops are:

For green crops (except lettuce)- cabbage, cucumber, root vegetables, onions;

For early white and cauliflower- potatoes, tomatoes, turnip onions, legumes, root crops (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga);

For medium and late white cabbage- tomato, potatoes, legumes, carrots, beets;

For turnip onions- cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;

For cucumber- early cabbage and cauliflower, tomato, potato, legumes (except beans), root crops (except carrots), as beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;

For carrots- potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, suffering from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);

For beets- cucumber and other pumpkin, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;

For potatoes- cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root crops, onions;

For tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis- early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, turnip onions, root crops, late cabbage;

For garlic- cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;

Plant compatibility. What to plant with what?

If you do not guess with the neighbors of the plants, you can get not just a small crop, but even be completely left without it. After all, enemy plants take useful minerals from each other from the ground, and also suffer from similar diseases and the risk of infection will be 50% more!

Enemies.

–Carrot dislikes anise, dill, cabbage. Its proximity to apple trees is unacceptable: if you plant carrots under a tree, both apples and root crops will be bitter. - Onion does not grow with beans, peas, sage. – Tomatoes not the best companions of potatoes, they have general illness(late blight) and one pest (Colorado potato beetle). - Pepper does not tolerate fennel, do not plant it with beans, as these crops are susceptible to one disease. – Turnip and pumpkin do not get along with potatoes. - Apple and pear trees do not like neighborhoods with cherry plums, cherries, cherries, plums and apricots

Friends.

–eggplant grow well next to beans, they protect against the Colorado potato beetle. - Cabbage does not suffer from earthen flea if celery is planted in the neighborhood. Dill saves her from caterpillars and aphids, and chamomile and mint from cabbage butterflies. - Potato goes well with spinach, cabbage and radishes. Marigolds and nasturtium protect it from the Colorado potato beetle, and garlic protects it from late blight. - Strawberry likes bush beans, garlic, lettuce, onions, radishes, radishes and beets. To scare away slugs from berries, parsley is planted between the beds. - Onion combined with carrots. These crops protect each other from pests. Onions grow well with beets, lettuce, cucumbers, spinach, radishes, watercress. - Carrot"Friends" with peas, radish, garlic, lettuce and radish. - cucumbers willingly coexist with beans, celery, beets. Good companions are lettuce, cabbage, garlic, onions, radishes, spinach. - TO tomatoes you can add onions, but only on greens - the tops of tomatoes grow rapidly and greatly obscure the neighbor. - Beet friendly to onions, beans, lettuce. - Carrot, turnip And cucumbers can be combined with peas, it enriches the soil with nitrogen.

nnmama.ru

What grows with what? Compatibility of plants in the garden

What plants can grow together with others, and which ones are contraindicated to be planted next to each other? What is better to plant in the beds of last year? What vegetables in the beds are compatible with each other? This table will help you make the right choice.

common basil

Compatible plants: peas, kohlrabi

Best predecessors: none.

Eggplant

Compatible plants: green annuals, onions, beans, peppers

Not compatible plants: peas, fennel

The best predecessors: cucumber, cabbage, greens, legumes.

vegetable beans

The best predecessors: corn, root crops, potatoes, cucumber, cabbage.

Peas

Compatible plants: white cabbage, watercress, sweet corn, potatoes, carrots, aromatic plants, lettuce, spinach

Incompatible plants: onion, tomato, beans, garlic, zucchini

The best predecessors: pumpkin, root crops, cabbage, corn, potatoes.

Sarepta mustard

Compatible plants: white cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, cauliflower, peas, radish

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

Daikon

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: potatoes, tomato, cucumber, sorrel, green crops, pumpkin, squash.

melon ordinary

Compatible plants: sweet corn

Incompatible plants: potatoes

The best predecessors: onions, legumes, root crops.

Hyssop officinalis

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: almost all plants

Best predecessors: none.

vegetable marrow

Compatible plants: corn, onion, beetroot, tomato

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: potatoes, cabbage, onions, root crops, legumes, green crops.

White cabbage

Compatible plants: potato, cucumber, radish, lettuce, beetroot, celery, garlic, beans, peas, fennel, spinach, endive

Incompatible plants: carrots, beans

Broccoli

Compatible plants: potatoes, onions, carrots, parsley, head lettuce, beetroot, celery, sage

The best predecessors: annual legumes, pumpkin, early tomatoes, potatoes, onions, carrots.

kohlrabi cabbage

Compatible plants: onion, cucumber, aromatic plants, radish, lettuce, table beet, peas, skortsioner, fennel, spinach

Incompatible plants: tomato, beans

Best predecessors: none.

leafy cabbage

Compatible plants: late white cabbage, potatoes

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: cucumber, onion, tomato, potato, root crops, legumes.

Savoy cabbage

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: annual legumes, pumpkin, early tomatoes, potatoes, onions, carrots.

Cauliflower

Compatible plants: potato, cucumber, lettuce, celery

Incompatible plants: tomato

The best predecessors: annual legumes, pumpkin, early tomatoes, potatoes, onions, carrots.

Potato

Compatible plants: beans, eggplant, calendula, corn, white cabbage, onion, radish, radish, garlic, beans, horseradish

Incompatible plants: garden quinoa, cucumber, tomato, sorrel, pumpkin, fennel

Best predecessors: none.

Kozelets Spanish

Compatible plants: cabbage, onion, carrot, lettuce

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

Watercress

Compatible plants: radish

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

crookneck

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: potatoes, cabbage, onions, root crops, legumes, greens.

Corn

Compatible plants: peas, zucchini, late white cabbage, potatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, beans, beans, lettuce

Incompatible plants: table beet, fennel

The best predecessors: legumes, early vegetables, onions, cucumbers.

Lagenaria vulgaris

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: legumes, onions, cabbage, root crops.

Leek

Compatible plants: onion, carrot, celery

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: pumpkin and nightshade crops.

Bulb onions

Compatible plants: Brussels sprouts, carrots, lettuce, table beet, cucumber, tomato, lettuce chicory, savory

Incompatible plants: peas, radishes, beans, beans, cabbage, radishes

The best predecessors: legumes, early potatoes, cucumber.

Marjoram garden

Compatible plants: carrots

Incompatible plants: cucumber

The best predecessors: all plants, except for members of the Lamiaceae family.

table carrot

Compatible plants: peas, broccoli, leek, onion, cucumber, parsley, radish, leaf lettuce, beetroot, sage, spinach, skortsioner, radish

Incompatible plants: dill, fennel, cabbage, beet chard

The best predecessors: early potatoes and cabbage, legumes, cucumber, onion, tomato.

Cucumber seed

Compatible plants: peas, late cabbage, sweet corn, onion, carrot, radish, lettuce, dill, beans, garlic, fennel

Incompatible plants: potatoes, aromatic plants, radish, tomato

The best predecessors: peas, potatoes, onions, cabbage.

Parsnip cultivated

Compatible plants: lettuce

Incompatible plants: onion, garlic

Best predecessors: none.

Squash

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: potatoes or other vegetables, except pumpkin

Capsicum

Compatible plants: eggplant

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: annual legumes, cabbage, cucumber.

Parsley curly

Compatible plants: basil, onion, cucumber, asparagus, tomato, beans

Incompatible plants: head lettuce

Best predecessors: no

Rhubarb

Compatible plants: peas, cabbage, radish, lettuce, celery, beans, spinach

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

Radish

Compatible plants: cabbage, carrot, turnip, lettuce, tomato, beans, beans, fennel, spinach

Incompatible plants: onion, cucumber, beet chard

The best predecessors: early potatoes, green crops.

Common radish

Compatible Plants: Carrot, Cucumber, Tomato, Melon, Parsnip, Beetroot, Pumpkin, Spinach, Fennel, Beans, Cabbage

Incompatible plants: hyssop, onion, cucumber, beet chard

The best predecessors: legumes, cucumber, tomato, early potatoes.

Turnip garden

Compatible plants: radish

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: cucumber, zucchini, tomato, legumes, potatoes.

lettuce

Compatible plants: cabbage, carrot, parsnip, rhubarb, radish, radish, table beet, tomato, spinach, beans, corn, skortsioner, fennel

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: cucumber, cabbage.

head salad

Compatible plants: peas, cabbage, onion, cucumber, tomato, beans, beans, corn, skortsioner, beets, fennel, carrots

Incompatible plants: celery, parsley

Best predecessors: none.

Beetroot

Compatible plants: cabbage, onion, carrot, cucumber, lettuce, zucchini, garlic, beans

Incompatible plants: Sarepta mustard, potatoes, beans, corn, onions

The best predecessors: legumes, cucumber, potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage, onions.

Celery fragrant cultivated

Compatible plants: white cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, leek, tomato, beans, cucumber, spinach

Incompatible plants: head lettuce, potatoes, corn, endive

The best predecessors: cabbage, pumpkin, nightshade crops.

Asparagus officinalis

Compatible plants: basil, parsley, tomato

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

common tomato

Compatible plants: basil, cabbage, onion, parsley, radish, radish, lettuce, asparagus, beans, garlic, beans, corn, carrots, spinach

Incompatible plants: peas, potatoes, kohlrabi, garden quinoa, cucumber, turnip, dill, fennel

The best predecessors: annual legumes, onions, early cabbage, cucumber.

Pumpkin

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: perennial grasses, potatoes, cabbage, onions, root crops, legumes.

common beans

Compatible plants: peas, cabbage, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshade, parsley, rhubarb, radish, cucumber, table beet, garden savory

Incompatible plants: onion, fennel, garlic, pumpkin

The best predecessors: pumpkin, cabbage, root crops, potatoes.

horseradish

Compatible plants: potatoes

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

Chicory salad

Compatible plants: onion, carrot, tomato, fennel

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

Savory garden

Compatible plants: watercress, onion, parsley, tomato, beans, dill, spinach

Incompatible plants: cucumber

Best predecessors: none.

Garlic sowing

Compatible plants: carrot, cucumber, parsley, lettuce, tomato, beet

Incompatible plants: peas, cabbage, beans, beans

Best predecessors: none.

Siebold's Cleaner

Compatible plants: onion, lettuce

Incompatible plants: potatoes, root vegetables

Best predecessors: none.

Svetlana, Russia

Lyudmila, I am truly delighted with your selection. I have already copied and dragged to my piggy bank all sorts of important useful things for the garden! Thank you!

Elena, Lviv

Lyudmila! I started to study this super article in anticipation of the next season. I have hyssop (pink) for a couple of years side by side on the balcony with other spicy (except basil). These neighbors are perennial. All the other plants have already degenerated a couple of times, but at least he doesn’t. Why? I cover them all with rags, and hyssop grows at the edge of the box.

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

It is possible that hyssop is more unpretentious. For him, this is what you need: good soil, top dressing with ammonium nitrate after spring regrowth and after the first pruning, watering in a hot dry summer. In winter, it can withstand temperatures as low as -15 degrees Celsius.

Elena, Lviv

Could this be due to the fact that the bases of the shoots are lignified in it?

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

And what about your rosemary, savory, santolina do not lignify the base of the shoots?

Elena, Lviv

I hide rosemary in the room. Santolina lignifies well, and savory and hyssop are barely at all, only the base is solid.

EkaterinaK, Russia

Thank you, I copied and will definitely apply your advice!

Elena Vakho, Ulyanovsk

Thanks for the compatibility summary, it's rare to find so much and so concisely.

Lyubov Usmanova, Chelyabinsk

Thank you so much for such helpful information!!! I am quite a beginner gardener. And I almost planted cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse. (((Now I will try to read more ..))) Thank you! Thank you!!!

Julia, Rostov-on-Don

For several years we had a greenhouse in which we planted cucumbers and tomatoes together. Everything grew great! So these vegetables don't die from each other!

Vitaly, Chusovoy

Thanks a lot! I have been looking for this information for a long time. Found, but everything is somehow difficult to describe. You make everything simple and clear! Easy to use when planning landings. Thanks a lot!

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Have you tried planting potatoes with eggplant yourself? And why does eggplant have no potatoes in its companions, but potatoes with eggplant can? Well, horseradish with potatoes and radish is unlikely to be seen in one garden. All the same, the conventions of agricultural technology will interfere with such a neighborhood, it seems to me.

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Thanks for the comprehensive list. My garden is small. Having read the basics of natural farming over the winter, he unexpectedly came up with the topic “ joint landings”, on the books of Bublik, and Kurdyumov. I was captivated by the joint plantings, first of all, by their beauty. Now I convince my retrograde wife to plant according to this fashionable pattern :))

Alexander, Minsk

Vitaly, good afternoon! I am sure that you and your wife and with such a thorough approach to everything that you do, everything will definitely work out; and joint landings including. How are your ferns growing?

Alexander, Minsk

so you can plant beets next to the beans or not?!!!

Yes, you can plant beets next to the beans, and after it too. At the same time, it is important to remember: beets accumulate nitrates, therefore, in the second half of the growing season, it is better not to fertilize with mineral fertilizers, especially nitrogen ones!

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

I guess that almost everything can be planted with beans except for the “relatives” of legumes, i.e. and beets, and potatoes, and pumpkin, and in trunk))

Lyudmila Orlova (Abramova), Yekaterinburg

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Lyudmila, these are all edible plants. What about color compatibility? Between themselves and with edible plants? For example, is it possible to plant greens or vegetables after gladioli?

VASILY, Vulcanesti

Lyudmila, good afternoon! You correctly noticed: in this material we are talking only about edible plants. And you asked a very interesting question about the compatibility of flower perennials and annuals. Unfortunately, the information about this is very scattered, and in order to collect everything the way it is done in this material, you will have to work for more than one month. After gladioli, we have never planted or sown anything in these places this season, although with a lack of space it is quite possible to use them, for example, for winter sowing.

Bai Hawaryshnik, Russia

Lyudmila, last year gladioli grew on my ridge, in the fall I dug up and planted rye, and this year I sowed various early-ripening salads (watercress, salad mustard, borage) and radishes in this place. What do you think, nothing? I read on the Internet that all parts of gladioli are poisonous ... And after them there is nothing poisonous in the soil that the newly planted edible plants could absorb? .. Probably a stupid question, but doubts overcome ...

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Ludmila, Good morning! If you didn’t process your gladioli with anything strong and harmful, but stick to their organic recovery, then nothing.

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Amina Akunaeva, Sterlitamak

Nadezhda Gerasimova

Good morning! You are absolutely right: when you have the information, then you are already theoretically strong in the fight against pests and plant diseases. It remains only to use all this knowledge practically in the country.

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Thank you! Very useful information!

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Lyudmila, please! Thanks for reading my articles.

Valechka Ivanova, Kursk

Hello! I want to say that beans and garlic are very compatible. And the garlic is very large (depending on how far apart it is planted), and the beans are wonderful (asparagus). Thank you.

R/S: loamy soil.

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Thank you very much helpful tips. This year I have been gardening for the first time. Raised a good harvest. There is no cellar yet and instead

made a barn in the barn. Now it's -10 degrees outside, and +1.3 degrees in the barn. Potatoes were sprinkled with ashes, carrots and beets with putty remaining after the repair. As long as it keeps well. Time will tell what changes will need to be made next year.

Olga Savelievna, Kyiv

And thank you for your comment, keep writing. Over time, this article can be supplemented new information from site users by making links.

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Good afternoon Let me disagree on the neighborhood of cucumber and radish. If at the end of June you plant radish seeds next to a cucumber (more precisely, already under the leaves) and forget, then, for example, by my birthday, September 4, I always get excellent rather large radish roots ... Try it! All the best…

Tata, Kaluga

I will definitely try it, and I was also interested in the neighborhood of basil with tomatoes and peppers, where it performs both the function of a sealant and a protector from aphids and other pests at the same time.

Tata, Kaluga

and tell me what can be planted after corn? I read somewhere that it pulls out all the useful substances from the soil, so now I’m wondering what to grow in this garden ...

Valechka, we always grew corn as a backstage on the border between our garden and the neighbors' gardens on 2 sides, sometimes we put beans on it; it happened that the next year they changed the corn coulisse to the sunflower coulisse, and after corn it grew, blossomed and bore fruit well.

What does "Better Ancestors" mean?

And it's written Beetroot

Compatible plants: cabbage, onion onion, carrot, cucumber, lettuce, zucchini, garlic, beans

Incompatible plants: mustard sarepta, potatoes, beans, corn, onion

The best predecessors: legumes, cucumber, potato, tomato, cabbage, onion.

It turns out that onions are compatible and incompatible at the same time with ordinary table beets? Or I misunderstood something. And if it will be some other beet, for example, a cylinder or Detroit, or Bordeaux?

I will try to grow something for the first time suburban area and I don't know much and I don't understand agriculture, so I apologize if my questions seem strange.

Olga Savelyevna, good morning!

For ordinary table beets, as well as for other vegetable crops, the best predecessors are those crops that grew in this place of the garden before beets. As a rule, the same vegetable is not planted in the same place every year. There is the concept of crop rotation, when every year we change crops in the same place: beans were sown this year, and beets the next year. Novice gardeners first keep records in which they draw crop rotation schemes, and professionals, based on their many years of experience, already do this automatically. Onion for beets is "universal": it is both a good predecessor and a compatible plant; especially in the southern regions, when beets are sown in the summer, in early June, the second crop after it, radish and other green crops. In incompatible crops, onions get to beets in compacted plantings, when space is needed for both the development of the root crop and the bulb, only for these reasons. If all this is foreseen, then the onion beet is more a friend than an enemy. And since we are talking about beets, I want to add one more clarification: the best predecessors for table beets are early potatoes, early cabbage.

After onions, it is good to plant beets on this bed for the next year. - this means that beets are a good predecessor - onions.

Compatible - can be planted on one bed, side by side.

And about the bow, apparently, they made a mistake, a typo ... a contradiction. Last edited on February 8, 2016, 01:19 AM

7dach.ru

Plant compatibility table (allelopathy)

Compatibility of cultivated plants (allelopathy)

culture	Compatible	Incompatible	Design

White acacia			Against the background of dark conifers
Actinidia kolomikta	Currant	Apple tree, fruit and large trees	At home, along the supports
	old apple tree
	Potato	Tomatoes, horseradish, cabbage
	Corn, carrot, onion, parsley, celery	Tomatoes, beans, horseradish
	Asparagus, tomatoes
eggplant	Greens, onions, beans, potatoes, peppers	Beans, peas, cucumbers, aromatic herbs
Barberry		Suppresses the growth of other plants. cereals	Od. , gr. landing, live. izg.
Marigold	Strawberries, roses, tulips, gladioli

Paper birch, hanging	Old apple tree, cherry	"Burns" the pine	Rowan, willow, oak, linden, maple, beech, bird cherry on a background of coniferous
warty euonymus	Apple tree, fruit trees(attracts pests)
	Potatoes, pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, sunflower	Onion, garlic, celery, fennel
Brocolli	Celery, sage, beets, onions, potatoes, cucumbers	Tomatoes, beans, strawberries
	Lettuce, spinach, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkin, beets, tomatoes
Brussels sprouts	Celery, potatoes, beets, onions, cucumbers	Tomatoes, beans, strawberries
black elderberry	Protects currants, gooseberries, raspberries		Around the barn and in the garden
Grape		The smell of cabbage, laurel worsens the taste. Elm, hazel	Vertical gardening
		Apple, pear, apricot
Elm, mountain elm		Oppresses grapes, oak	Maple, linden
Gladiolus	Garlic, calendula
	Carrots, turnips, radishes, potatoes, cucumbers, beans, marigolds, calendula, fragrant herbs	Onion garlic
	Cabbage, turnip, peas
	Black poplar, maple (protects with phytoncides), oak	Walnut, Manchurian and black walnut, white locust, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry, stone fruit, couch grass, beech, dark coniferous (spruce, fir, cedar)
	Like radishes, radishes - beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, cucumbers, tomatoes, squash and squash	Peas, strawberries, cabbage
Delphinium
Tree pliers (red bubble) round-leaved		Do not plant near fruit trees	To decorate buildings
	Old apple tree, Norway maple, linden, pine, cedar	White locust, ash, elm - not very	In groups with conifers
fragrant herbs	Peas, kohlrabi
	Corn, beans, radish, tomatoes	Potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage
	Rowan, hazel, raspberry	White acacia, horse chestnut, fir, lilac, Tatra maple, rose, wild rose, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry	Fir, pine, birch, maple, ash, shrubs
	Eggplant, tomatoes
strawberries	Beans, spinach, lettuce, onion, garlic, marigold, calendula	It is undesirable to grow after potatoes, eggplants, peppers, cabbage, cucumbers, asters, lilies, gladioli (so as not to get infected with their diseases)	Legumes, onions, garlic, greens. crops, radishes, celery, beets, carrots are good predecessors
cereals		Barberry
		See pear, except for the 4th last. + Manchurian walnut
	Corn, beans, beans, lettuce, onion, celery	tomatoes	Separately - zucchini, pumpkins, squash (better not together)
Calendula	Apple tree, currant, roses, tulips, gladioli. Strawberries, onions, peas, tomatoes
		Inhibits the growth of other plants	Oak, linden, rowan
	Celery, cucumbers, beets, mustard, spinach, dill, lettuce, onions, potatoes, nasturtium (with all cabbages), calendula, tobacco	Strawberries, tomatoes, beans
Brussels sprouts	Chinese cabbage
Chinese cabbage	Brussels sprouts, cauliflower
leafy cabbage	With many. Dill, celery, onion	Tomatoes, beans, strawberries
Cauliflower	Celery, Chinese cabbage, beans, parsley, sage	Tomatoes. strawberries

Potato	Watermelon, broccoli, cabbage, corn, peas, beans, beans, horseradish, eggplant, onion, nasturtium, carrot, lettuce, dill, coriander	Pumpkin, tomatoes, cucumbers, sunflower, raspberry, cherry, apple tree	Good: cereals as predecessors; peas, calendula
horse chestnut		Inhibits the growth of other plants	Single landings
Norway maple, field, Tatar	Apple tree, pear. Oak companion. Linden	Spruce - suppresses Tatar	Against the backdrop of conifers
Kohlrabi	Cucumbers, onions, beets, lettuce, fragrant herbs	Strawberries, tomatoes

Watercress
Corn	Artichoke, peas, beans, melon, zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers, potatoes, barley, lupins, mustard		Restrains raspberry growth

	Spruce, raspberry
	The apple tree is old; oak, coniferous, maple		Oak, rowan, maple, ash, skumpia
	Cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli, potatoes, beets, carrots, tomatoes, eggplant, lettuce, chicory, leek, garlic, strawberries, calendula, savory, tobacco	Peas, beans. Aggressive to legumes and cabbage	Suppresses fungal diseases
Leek	Celery, onions, carrots, tomatoes

	Spruce, apple tree, pine, mountain ash, hazel		The growth is well restrained by corn
Chard		Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans
	Peas. Leek, onion, leaf lettuce, parsley, radish, beans, tomatoes, marjoram, sage	Beets, celery, horseradish
Nasturtium	Vegetables, potatoes, phlox, cabbage, tomatoes, turnips
	Nasturtium, delphinium
	Peas, corn, beans, radish, tomatoes, cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, dill	Potatoes, fragrant herbs	Kotovnik and lemon balm - attract bees
Manchurian walnut		Inhibits apple, pear, yew, irga, mountain ash
	old apple tree
	Lettuce, onion (feather), tomato, eggplant	Beans, peas, cucumbers, fennel, celery
Parsnip
Parsley	(Carrots), Asparagus, Tomatoes, Peas, Beans, Beans, Onions, Lettuce	Carrots, beets, celery, horseradish	Protects everyone from pests

		Inhibits the growth of other plants	Larch, pine, birch, spruce
	Everyone is oppressed
	Single plant (except for perennial onions, horseradish)	Gooseberry	Good - fruit berry plantings
	Spinach, dill, watercress, beets, carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini and pumpkin, fragrant herbs	Peas, beans, strawberries	Before zucchini, zucchini and other late
	zucchini, cucumbers, beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, pumpkin, melon, tomatoes, lettuce	Peas, beans, strawberries, cabbage
	Spinach, dill, lettuce, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, beets, pumpkin, tomatoes	Beans, peas, horseradish, celery
	Garlic, calendula	Apple tree, pear
	Spruce, cherry, pine, raspberry
	Strawberries, cabbage, kohlrabi, carrots, beets, radishes, onions, cucumbers	Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans	Activates the roots of other plants - helpers
Salad chicory (witloof)	Strawberries, cucumbers, carrots, radish, cabbage	Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans
	onion, radish, lettuce, kohlrabi, broccoli, most cabbage	Mustard, beans	Chorus. predecessors: legumes, winter cereals, perennial grasses, corn
Celery	Broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, leek, radish, carrot, beetroot	Tomatoes, peas, beans
		Suppresses the growth of other plants, "suffers" from spruce	Od., gr. landing, live. izg.
Scorzonera (black root)	Onions, cabbage, radish, carrots, beets	Tomatoes, beans, horseradish, peas
		Apple tree, pear	Do not plant next to sea buckthorn
Currant	Garlic, calendula, geranium, Jerusalem artichoke, homemade hops	Cherry (with blackcurrant), lily, tulip (bulbous)
	Apple tree, raspberry, mountain ash, larch, fir, spruce, hazel, oak, cedar, linden	Suffering from birch; aspen	Spruce, larch,

	Parsley, basil, tomatoes
		Walnut, Manchurian and black walnut, barberry, white locust, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine)	Deciduous species, od. and small gr. landings
	Onion, leek, carrot, radish, celery, parsley, asparagus, cabbage(?), herbs, garlic, calendula, levkoy, apple tree, eggplant, peppers, basil	Kohlrabi, tall vegetables, beans, peas, cucumbers	Help berry bushes
Poplar black	Pear, apple tree		Closer to the pond
	Peas, mustard
	Corn, beans, radish, onion, lettuce	Potato, cabbage
	Garlic, calendula
	Turnip, radish, cabbage, apple tree
	Eggplants, tomatoes, potatoes, corn, beets, carrots, cauliflower, peas, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon, strawberries, savory, gladioli	Onion, garlic, broccoli, fennel	Protects everyone from pests
	Everyone is oppressed
	Tomatoes, lettuce, onion (feather), pepper	Beans, peas, cucumbers, fragrant herbs
	Nasturtium
	Potatoes, fragrant herbs	Tomatoes, beans
	Bulb onions
	Beans, onions
	Rowan Nevezhinskaya, apple tree	White acacia, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), apple tree, pear, black currant
	Roses, tulips, gladioli, currants, strawberries, onions, peas (?), tomatoes	Peas (?), beans	Aggressive to legumes and cabbage. Suppresses fungal diseases
Mock orange (jasmine)		Inhibits the growth of other plants
	Broccoli, carrots
Rose hip		Spruce. Inhibits the growth of other plants	All bushes in one place
	Strawberries, turnips, radishes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, carrots	Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans	Activates the roots of other plants
	Strawberries, carrots, radish, cabbage	Tomatoes, peas, beans, sage and other fragrant
	Linden and grapes as predecessors. Under the old apple trees - oak, linden, birch, hazel, cherry plum and other conifers, pine, black poplar, maple, raspberry, dill, tomatoes, hemp, tansy, calendula. The smell of mullein infusion or "green manure", sweet cherry	Potato, couch grass, walnut, Manchurian and black walnut, white locust, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry, stone fruits
Common ash (high)		Suppresses the growth of woody and shrub plants, oak - "so-so"

Note

This table was compiled taking into account the analysis of several sources on the mutual influence of cultures. That is, the principle was in effect: those data on compatibility that turned out to be the same, common to several authors, were entered in the table. Data that differed or were inconsistent were not included in the table. So, the whole table is, as it were, a conclusion or summary of several sources on this topic.

If you have only one greenhouse for planting various vegetable crops, remember that not all of them get along with each other. And this is logical. For some cultures, ventilation is important, while others are quite comfortable without it. For some plants, you need to buy fertilizers, others do not need it. Let's try to figure out which plants are compatible and which are better to plant in different greenhouses.

Before deciding to combine several crops in a greenhouse, you need to know their moisture and temperature needs.

Compatibility of cucumbers and tomatoes

Let's start with the favorite vegetables of many gardeners - cucumbers and tomatoes.

Cucumbers are easy to grow. These crops need a lot of heat and moisture. Optimum temperature air - from 20 to 22 degrees, but as soon as the ovaries appear, the temperature should be increased to 26 - 28 degrees.

For growing cucumbers and tomatoes, absolutely different conditions. Therefore, their joint cultivation is not desirable.

Cucumbers need to be watered a lot and often, you can even use a spray bottle to water not only the roots, but also the tops. Cucumbers need warm water. You can use a well heated in the sun. But this vegetable does not need fertilizers, only nitrogen-containing ones can be used. Cucumbers do not need frequent airing.

But the tomato is a completely different matter. A moderate air temperature is suitable for the growth of these crops, the tomato loves when the greenhouse is well ventilated, loves fertilizers. Tomatoes also need to be watered often, but only under the root.

As you can see, cucumbers and tomatoes need completely different conditions. The conclusion suggests itself - these vegetable crops need different greenhouses. If you have one and you are not going to put the other, then it is better to plant tomatoes in it. Cucumbers will feel quite comfortable in the garden under a covering sheet.

If you left a greenhouse for tomatoes, then reconcile yourself to the fact that they alone will host it, you will have to look for another place to plant other crops. Otherwise, the harvest will be less. But with tomatoes it is good to plant greens: parsley, celery, basil. Grow well without interfering with tomatoes, garlic and radishes, and the tomato loves to coexist with beans.

If, nevertheless, the cucumbers "outweighed" and occupied a warm place, then you can plant them in the neighborhood Bell pepper. He also loves heat and water. That's just Fresh air Pepper loves more than cucumber. Therefore, it is better to allocate a place for planting these plants near the door or window.

Eggplant will make a good company for cucumbers and peppers. Especially pepper, then a good harvest of both crops is provided. They love each other. But remember that eggplants prefer more air temperature, closer to 30 degrees. So keep the temperature at 28 degrees so that everyone is comfortable.

Having at least two greenhouses is good, but what if there is only one and there are no more options for planting vegetables? We'll have to plant all the vegetables in one house. But what about the notorious compatibility? If you approach this issue competently, then you can combine the incompatible.

Divide the greenhouse into two parts. Well, if she has doors on both sides. But consider a more difficult option, when there is only one door, and there is a window on the opposite side. In this case, we plant tomatoes near the door and separate them with a board, plywood or slate. In extreme cases, you can just block the film. Next will be cucumbers, then eggplant, and peppers near the window. Peppers and eggplant can be swapped, but in no case should you plant eggplant next to tomatoes. If there is no special need for eggplant, then it is better not to plant them at all.

If you have a large greenhouse with three beds, then you can dispose of them as follows: we plant cucumbers on the central bed, and leave the side beds for the rest of the plants.

Compatibility with other vegetables

In the greenhouse, of course, you can grow other vegetables. For example, white cabbage of early varieties. The optimum temperature for growing cabbage is 20 degrees, so seedlings can be planted in mid-April. Cabbage loves a lot of sun and moisture. At proper care at the beginning of summer it will be possible to harvest the first harvest.

And on the garden next to the cabbage, you can plant greens: onions, lettuce, cilantro, parsley, celery, dill. If later you plan to place tomatoes in the same greenhouse, then you do not need to plant dill and fennel, the capricious vegetable will not like this greenery. Radishes will also grow well and quickly in this greenhouse. Cucumbers are very well compatible with white cabbage. The tomato will also not be against such a neighborhood, especially since when it begins to bear fruit, the crop of early cabbage will already be harvested.

Grow well in the greenhouse and early zucchini. Seedlings are planted by the end of April, and at the beginning of summer it will already be possible to enjoy the first fruits. Care for zucchini is about the same as for cucumbers - this plant loves heat (up to 25 degrees) and moisture. But the main difference is that the greenhouse with zucchini needs to be ventilated as often as possible, in the spring it is better to do it during the day, when the air outside is warm.

Zucchini is happy with any neighborhood: greens, beans, corn, radishes - everything will grow well in one greenhouse. But do not forget that the zucchini needs a lot of space.

So, summing up all of the above, I would like to remind you that the most capricious of all plants is the tomato. If you want to get a good harvest of these vegetables, then give him a separate greenhouse. For the rest of the plants, one warm house is enough.

ParnikiTeplicy.com

Joint (combined) plantings in the greenhouse - tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and eggplant

It's no secret that the climate in most of Russia is harsh. However, this does not stop our gardeners, because vegetables from their beds are tastier and much healthier than store-bought ones. And in order to get record harvests not only in the south of the country, but also in the Urals and Siberia, we grow many crops in protected ground.

Due to the large labor costs for the construction of greenhouse and greenhouse structures, every centimeter of this land is valued by gardeners for its weight in gold, and here it is very important to prevent agricultural errors.

Variety matters, so when choosing plants for your greenhouse, pay attention to varietal characteristics. Losing sight of varietal compatibility is the first mistake gardeners make. There is a popular belief that if a tomato is suitable for open ground, then it will grow well indoors. This is completely wrong, because breeders test and breed varieties for certain conditions.

See also: Vegetable compatibility from A to Z

For example, a street tomato in a greenhouse can be affected by diseases (it can get sick and infect neighbors), stretch out pretty well and build up a large amount of green mass, while not giving a good harvest. The same is true with cucumber: you should not experiment with bee-pollinated hybrids in greenhouse conditions. And in general, in protected ground I recommend planting only superbeam hybrids.

The second mistake is the wrong selection of crops when forming ridges. After all, plants are like people, if a person is surrounded good company, then everything in life is going well. Often, competent joint plantings can significantly increase yields, simplify their care, and to some extent create protection against diseases and pests.

Well, now let's talk about the specifics. Cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants are considered to be the main crops in protected ground. It is these four vegetables that we most often plant in greenhouses and greenhouses. But, as they say, a holy place is never empty! Few gardeners are able to resist not to occupy the last free corner. The whole earth must be in action! So hands are reaching out to plant a neighbor to tomatoes or peppers. And it’s good if they are harmless radishes or lettuces that can coexist peacefully with any garden plants. But there are also more serious cultures that suppress their neighbors in the garden. So settlers are not always good.

Indoor ground is a limited space in every sense. So you have to think twice before planting this or that vegetable in a greenhouse or greenhouse. And sometimes even abandon some cultures, because there may not be enough space for everyone.

Greenhouse tomato compatibility

Moderate air temperature is suitable for the growth of this culture. The tomato loves when the greenhouse is well ventilated, loves fertilizers. Plants need to be watered often, but only under the root. In the company of tomatoes, you can plant early white cabbage, for example * Ultra-early Miracle F1, Express Fl \ Nakhodka. Her seedlings can be planted in mid-April and at the very beginning of summer you can get heads of juicy, crispy, sweetish cabbage for the first vitamin salads - such a neighborhood will not hurt at all, and the harvest will please.

At the feet of tomatoes, you can place varieties of leaf or head salads, a mixture of varieties "Bright Vitamins" is good. Good companions are onions (if you grow them on a feather) and parsley (for greens). You can also plant a watermelon in the company with a tomato. But when planting a tomato with green crops, remember that he does not like the neighborhood with dill and fennel!

By the way, such a familiar greenhouse tandem as tomatoes and cucumbers does not really bode well. So, growing them in the same greenhouse, it is advisable to spread the plants either to different beds (tomatoes on the one hand, cucumbers on the other), or - if this is not possible - plant them in different angles and divide the planting with a pair of rows of peppers.

Compatibility of cucumbers in the greenhouse

You can make any planting next to cucumbers only if you grow them on a trellis. Then the cucumbers will be comfortable, and there is plenty of room for the neighbors.

You can add any green crops (dill, parsley, basil, fennel and others), leaf and head salads. Also, if the cucumber has a lot of free space at the feet, you can plant white cabbage there - such a neighborhood will not bring any harm.

A very strange, but very successful neighborhood of cucumber and radish. Of course, few gardeners would think of growing this root vegetable in a greenhouse, but the fact remains: such a partnership helps protect cucumbers from leaf beetles and spider mites.

See also: Plant compatibility and vegetable rotation

Greenhouse Pepper Compatibility

All nightshades (tomatoes, eggplants, peppers) get along well, but for

the best harvest, they should still be spread to different parts of the greenhouse or sown in separate groups. As for plants from other families, next to pepper (both hot and sweet), you can safely plant basil and lovage. There will be no harm from these crops. Also a good companion is a bow.

Eggplant

Eggplant compatibility in a greenhouse Eggplants are very compact plants, so it is best not to plant anyone on them, so as not to thicken and shade them. But if a place is worth its weight in gold, then this vegetable crop will get along well with onions. You can also plant a melon nearby. Neighborhood with tomatoes eggplant is also not contraindicated.

See also: Compatibility of vegetables in the country garden

Greenhouse vegetable compatibility

CULTURE	GOOD NEIGHBORS	UNWANTED NEIGHBORS
cucumbers	Sweet pepper Giganto rossa F1 Ural thick-walled F1, Queen Elizabeth F1 Giant red, F1 Giant yellow F1, Giant orange F1, Dutch Giant, eggplant (Siberian early 148, Mechta mushroom picker), radish	Tomato, watermelon, sage
Tomatoes	Watermelon (Sugar Lightning F1) Radishes (Sugar Giant), Lettuces, Onions, Parsley, Early Cabbage (Miracle Ultra Early F1)	Cucumber, fennel, dill
Pepper	Basil, onion, lovage, tomato, cucumber
Eggplant	Onion, melon, tomato

vsaduidoma.com

What grows with what? Compatibility of plants in the garden

common basil

Compatible plants: peas, kohlrabi

Best predecessors: none.

Eggplant

Compatible plants: green annuals, onions, beans, peppers

Incompatible plants: peas, fennel

The best predecessors: cucumber, cabbage, greens, legumes.

vegetable beans

The best predecessors: corn, root crops, potatoes, cucumber, cabbage.

Peas

Compatible plants: white cabbage, watercress, sweet corn, potatoes, carrots, aromatic plants, lettuce, spinach

Incompatible plants: onion, tomato, beans, garlic, zucchini

The best predecessors: pumpkin, root crops, cabbage, corn, potatoes.

Sarepta mustard

Compatible plants: white cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, cauliflower, peas, radish

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

Daikon

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: potatoes, tomato, cucumber, sorrel, green crops, pumpkin, squash.

melon ordinary

Compatible plants: sweet corn

Incompatible plants: potatoes

The best predecessors: onions, legumes, root crops.

Hyssop officinalis

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: almost all plants

Best predecessors: none.

vegetable marrow

Compatible plants: corn, onion, beetroot, tomato

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: potatoes, cabbage, onions, root crops, legumes, green crops.

White cabbage

Compatible plants: potato, cucumber, radish, lettuce, beetroot, celery, garlic, beans, peas, fennel, spinach, endive

Incompatible plants: carrots, beans

Broccoli

Compatible plants: potatoes, onions, carrots, parsley, head lettuce, beetroot, celery, sage

The best predecessors: annual legumes, pumpkin, early tomatoes, potatoes, onions, carrots.

kohlrabi cabbage

Compatible plants: onion, cucumber, aromatic plants, radish, lettuce, table beet, peas, skortsioner, fennel, spinach

Incompatible plants: tomato, beans

Best predecessors: none.

leafy cabbage

Compatible plants: late white cabbage, potatoes

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: cucumber, onion, tomato, potato, root crops, legumes.

Savoy cabbage

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: annual legumes, pumpkin, early tomatoes, potatoes, onions, carrots.

Cauliflower

Compatible plants: potato, cucumber, lettuce, celery

Incompatible plants: tomato

The best predecessors: annual legumes, pumpkin, early tomatoes, potatoes, onions, carrots.

Potato

Compatible plants: beans, eggplant, calendula, corn, white cabbage, onion, radish, radish, garlic, beans, horseradish

Incompatible plants: garden quinoa, cucumber, tomato, sorrel, pumpkin, fennel

Best predecessors: none.

Kozelets Spanish

Compatible plants: cabbage, onion, carrot, lettuce

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

Watercress

Compatible plants: radish

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

crookneck

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: potatoes, cabbage, onions, root crops, legumes, greens.

Corn

Compatible plants: peas, zucchini, late white cabbage, potatoes, cucumber, pumpkin, beans, beans, lettuce

Incompatible plants: table beet, fennel

The best predecessors: legumes, early vegetables, onions, cucumbers.

Lagenaria vulgaris

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: legumes, onions, cabbage, root crops.

Leek

Compatible plants: onion, carrot, celery

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: pumpkin and nightshade crops.

Bulb onions

Compatible plants: Brussels sprouts, carrots, lettuce, table beet, cucumber, tomato, lettuce chicory, savory

Incompatible plants: peas, radishes, beans, beans, cabbage, radishes

The best predecessors: legumes, early potatoes, cucumber.

Marjoram garden

Compatible plants: carrots

Incompatible plants: cucumber

The best predecessors: all plants, except for members of the Lamiaceae family.

table carrot

Compatible plants: peas, broccoli, leek, onion, cucumber, parsley, radish, leaf lettuce, beetroot, sage, spinach, skortsioner, radish

Incompatible plants: dill, fennel, cabbage, beet chard

The best predecessors: early potatoes and cabbage, legumes, cucumber, onion, tomato.

Cucumber seed

Compatible plants: peas, late cabbage, sweet corn, onion, carrot, radish, lettuce, dill, beans, garlic, fennel

Incompatible plants: potatoes, aromatic plants, radish, tomato

The best predecessors: peas, potatoes, onions, cabbage.

Parsnip cultivated

Compatible plants: lettuce

Incompatible plants: onion, garlic

Best predecessors: none.

Squash

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: potatoes or other vegetables, except pumpkin

Capsicum

Compatible plants: eggplant

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: annual legumes, cabbage, cucumber.

Parsley curly

Compatible plants: basil, onion, cucumber, asparagus, tomato, beans

Incompatible plants: head lettuce

Best predecessors: no

Rhubarb

Compatible plants: peas, cabbage, radish, lettuce, celery, beans, spinach

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

Radish

Compatible plants: cabbage, carrot, turnip, lettuce, tomato, beans, beans, fennel, spinach

Incompatible plants: onion, cucumber, beet chard

The best predecessors: early potatoes, green crops.

Common radish

Compatible Plants: Carrot, Cucumber, Tomato, Melon, Parsnip, Beetroot, Pumpkin, Spinach, Fennel, Beans, Cabbage

Incompatible plants: hyssop, onion, cucumber, beet chard

The best predecessors: legumes, cucumber, tomato, early potatoes.

Turnip garden

Compatible plants: radish

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: cucumber, zucchini, tomato, legumes, potatoes.

lettuce

Compatible plants: cabbage, carrot, parsnip, rhubarb, radish, radish, table beet, tomato, spinach, beans, corn, skortsioner, fennel

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: cucumber, cabbage.

head salad

Compatible plants: peas, cabbage, onion, cucumber, tomato, beans, beans, corn, skortsioner, beets, fennel, carrots

Incompatible plants: celery, parsley

Best predecessors: none.

Beetroot

Compatible plants: cabbage, onion, carrot, cucumber, lettuce, zucchini, garlic, beans

Incompatible plants: Sarepta mustard, potatoes, beans, corn, onions

The best predecessors: legumes, cucumber, potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage, onions.

Celery fragrant cultivated

Compatible plants: white cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, leek, tomato, beans, cucumber, spinach

Incompatible plants: head lettuce, potatoes, corn, endive

The best predecessors: cabbage, pumpkin, nightshade crops.

Asparagus officinalis

Compatible plants: basil, parsley, tomato

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

common tomato

Compatible plants: basil, cabbage, onion, parsley, radish, radish, lettuce, asparagus, beans, garlic, beans, corn, carrots, spinach

Incompatible plants: peas, potatoes, kohlrabi, garden quinoa, cucumber, turnip, dill, fennel

The best predecessors: annual legumes, onions, early cabbage, cucumber.

Pumpkin

Compatible plants: no

Incompatible plants: no

The best predecessors: perennial grasses, potatoes, cabbage, onions, root crops, legumes.

common beans

Compatible plants: peas, cabbage, potatoes, corn, carrots, nightshade, parsley, rhubarb, radish, cucumber, table beet, garden savory

Incompatible plants: onion, fennel, garlic, pumpkin

The best predecessors: pumpkin, cabbage, root crops, potatoes.

horseradish

Compatible plants: potatoes

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

Chicory salad

Compatible plants: onion, carrot, tomato, fennel

Incompatible plants: no

Best predecessors: none.

Savory garden

Compatible plants: watercress, onion, parsley, tomato, beans, dill, spinach

Incompatible plants: cucumber

Best predecessors: none.

Garlic sowing

Compatible plants: carrot, cucumber, parsley, lettuce, tomato, beet

Incompatible plants: peas, cabbage, beans, beans

Best predecessors: none.

Siebold's Cleaner

Compatible plants: onion, lettuce

Incompatible plants: potatoes, root vegetables

Best predecessors: none.

Svetlana, Russia

Lyudmila, I am truly delighted with your selection. I have already copied and dragged to my piggy bank all sorts of important useful things for the garden! Thank you!

Elena, Lviv

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

It is possible that hyssop is more unpretentious. For him, that's what you need: good soil, top dressing with ammonium nitrate after spring regrowth and after the first pruning, watering in a hot dry summer. In winter, it can withstand temperatures as low as -15 degrees Celsius.

Elena, Lviv

Could this be due to the fact that the bases of the shoots are lignified in it?

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

And what about your rosemary, savory, santolina do not lignify the base of the shoots?

Elena, Lviv

I hide rosemary in the room. Santolina lignifies well, and savory and hyssop are barely at all, only the base is solid.

EkaterinaK, Russia

Thank you, I copied and will definitely apply your advice!

Elena Vakho, Ulyanovsk

Thanks for the compatibility summary, it's rare to find so much and so concisely.

Lyubov Usmanova, Chelyabinsk

Julia, Rostov-on-Don

For several years we had a greenhouse in which we planted cucumbers and tomatoes together. Everything grew great! So these vegetables don't die from each other!

Vitaly, Chusovoy

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Thanks for the comprehensive list. My garden is small. Having read the basics of natural farming over the winter, he suddenly came up with the topic “joint plantings”, on the books of Bublik and Kurdyumov. I was captivated by the joint plantings, first of all, by their beauty. Now I convince my retrograde wife to plant according to this fashionable pattern :))

Alexander, Minsk

so you can plant beets next to the beans or not?!!!

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

I guess that almost everything can be planted with beans except for the “relatives” of legumes, i.e. and beets, and potatoes, and pumpkin, and in trunk))

Lyudmila Orlova (Abramova), Yekaterinburg

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Lyudmila, these are all edible plants. What about color compatibility? Between themselves and with edible plants? For example, is it possible to plant greens or vegetables after gladioli?

VASILY, Vulcanesti

Bai Hawaryshnik, Russia

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Lyudmila, good morning! If you didn’t process your gladioli with anything strong and harmful, but stick to their organic recovery, then nothing.

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Amina Akunaeva, Sterlitamak

Nadezhda Gerasimova

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Thank you! Very useful information!

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Lyudmila, please! Thanks for reading my articles.

Valechka Ivanova, Kursk

Hello! I want to say that beans and garlic are very compatible. And the garlic is very large (depending on how far apart it is planted), and the beans are wonderful (asparagus). Thank you.

R/S: loamy soil.

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Thanks for the very helpful tips. This year I have been gardening for the first time. Raised a good harvest. There is no cellar yet and instead

Olga Savelievna, Kyiv

And thank you for your comment, keep writing. Over time, this article can be supplemented with new information from site users by making links.

Ludmila Uleyskaya, Yalta

Tata, Kaluga

and tell me what can be planted after corn? I read somewhere that it pulls out all the useful substances from the soil, so now I’m wondering what to grow in this garden ...

What does "Better Ancestors" mean?

And it's written Beetroot

Compatible plants: cabbage, onion onion, carrot, cucumber, lettuce, zucchini, garlic, beans

Incompatible plants: mustard sarepta, potatoes, beans, corn, onion

The best predecessors: legumes, cucumber, potato, tomato, cabbage, onion.

For the first time I will try to grow something in a summer cottage and I don’t know and don’t understand much in agriculture, so I apologize if my questions seem strange.

Olga Savelyevna, good morning!

After onions, it is good to plant beets on this bed for the next year. - this means that beets are a good predecessor - onions.

Compatible - can be planted on one bed, side by side.

And about the bow, apparently, they made a mistake, a typo ... a contradiction. Last edited on February 8, 2016, 01:19 AM

7dach.ru

Plants protectors. Plant compatibility.

This category includes not only those satellite plants that repel insects, but also those that, figuratively speaking, confuse them, confuse them.

Many insects find plants suitable for food by smell. For example, earthen fleas and cabbage scoops find cabbage by smell. Planting strong-smelling plants such as thyme or sage near the cabbage, or spraying it with an extract of these herbs, will mask the smell of the cabbage and make it less attractive to pests.

aromatic herbs strong smell confuse pests and protect garden crops. Therefore, it is recommended to plant basil near beans to protect against bean weevil, garlic near roses to protect against aphids, parsley near asparagus. True, the effect of herbs is not always manifested to the same extent.

Plants that repel insects by smell can be classified as repellant plants (repellent).

These include nasturtium, which repels the whitefly, aphids, Colorado potato beetle, cabbage caterpillars.

Wormwood repels ants, cabbage and carrot flies, codling moth, earth fleas, whiteflies;

Peppermint - ants, aphids, earthen fleas, cabbage caterpillars, whiteflies.

Aphids do not like the smell of most aromatic herbs, as well as chives, onions, garlic, marigolds, mustard, coriander, fennel.

Tansy reduces damage to vegetables by earthen fleas and cabbage - cabbage caterpillars.

Garlic repels cabbage fly larvae and codling moth; the Colorado potato beetle is repelled by catnip, coriander, nasturtium, tansy, marigolds.

Tobacco, mint, rue, tansy, medicinal and bitter wormwood, catnip repel earthen fleas; catnip, nasturtium - green peach aphid; marigolds - some types of nematodes.

Oak leaf and bark mulch repels slugs, seedling caterpillars, and garden beetle larvae.

Sowing dill to cabbage does not protect it from whitefish and cabbage moth, but it significantly reduces the number of cabbage aphids.

When using aromatic herbs for these purposes, one should not forget about the competition between plants. So that grasses do not grow and drown out the main crop, they should be sown in rare patches in its rows or along the edges of the beds in the form of a border.

mixed landings various kinds vegetable plants for many years were engaged in experimental gardeners in Germany and Switzerland. They managed to establish many interesting patterns.

First, they found that in mixed plantings, the mass spread of pests is contained due to the diversity of plant species, since it is more difficult for them to find a host plant. In monoculture, this constraint is absent. There, the spread of pests or infections is like an avalanche from one plant to another. In mixed plantings, rows of plants from different families create natural barriers to the spread of pests and diseases specific to each family.

Secondly, mixed landings planting is denser, leaving less of the soil surface exposed, which deters the spread of those pests that lay their eggs on the ground.

Thirdly, many vegetable crops themselves have a frightening smell. For example, if you alternate rows of celery and cabbage, then the latter will be protected from earthen flea and cabbage whites.

Farmer Hubmann from Germany, based on his 50 years of experience, claims that radishes and kohlrabi planted in rows of leaf or head lettuce are reliably protected from earthen flea.

In his opinion, with mixed plantings, the same crops can be grown in the same place for several years, which is impossible for a monoculture due to the accumulation of pests and pathogens in the soil.

For example; he recommends mixed plantings of early potatoes as the main crop, with accompanying radishes or cabbages, watercress and spinach. He considers the latter the best partner for potatoes and suggests the following planting schemes.

On a bed 1 m wide in the middle, place two rows of early potatoes with a distance of 50 cm between them. Place a row of cauliflower or kohlrabi in the aisle, and 4-6 rows of spinach along the edges of the bed and between the rows of cabbage and potatoes. Spinach is a fast growing crop. After harvesting, space is freed up for the free growth of cabbage and potatoes.

The second scheme: in the middle of the bed - two rows of potatoes, along the edges - radish with watercress, or between the rows of potatoes - a row of chervil or kohlrabi with head lettuce. All vegetables tolerate the neighborhood with each other well. Such combinations can exist in one place from three to ten years without reducing the yield.

For table beets that can grow in one place for a number of years only in a mixed planting, Hubmann recommends the following combination: in the middle of a 1 m wide bed - three rows of beets interspersed with dill (in the two extreme rows of beets between two beet plants - one dill plant), along the edges of the beds - leaf lettuce with radish, between lettuce and beets - two rows of head lettuce with kohlrabi.

It must be borne in mind that the result of the protective action of plants in mixed plantings will never be the complete disappearance of pests, one can only expect a reduction in their numbers.

Rish and his collaborators conducted 150 experiments, studying the effect of joint crops of various crops on the number of pests. He came to the conclusion that 53% of harmful insect species have a smaller number in mixed plantings than in monoculture, 18% - a large number, 9% are equally distributed. For 20% of species, no definite results were obtained.

In table. 2 contains information about the deterrent effect of herbs and vegetable crops on various types of harmful insects.

In this section, one can also mention plants that repel insects that are harmful to humans and domestic animals.

walnut trees, and especially Walnut, repel house flies and pet flies. Therefore, walnut trees growing in pastures make life very easy for horses and cattle. You can spray animals with a decoction of walnut leaves to repel flies. Growing near dunghills or at the entrance to a stable or barn, walnut trees reduce the number of flies in these places.

Plants that have a deterrent effect
(pivot table)

insects or animals	Plants
whitefly	Nasturtium, peppermint, thyme, wormwood
White cabbage	Celery, tomatoes, peppermint, sage, wormwood and medicinal
Earth fleas	Catnip, peppermint and spearmint, rue, wormwood and medicinal, tobacco, tansy, head and leaf lettuce
Hawk hawk five-spotted	Dill, borage, basil
Cabbage caterpillars	Dill, garlic, geranium, hyssop, peppermint, nasturtium, onion, sage, tansy, thyme, medicinal wormwood
Colorado beetle	Kotovnik, coriander, nasturtium, onion, tansy, horseradish, vegetable beans, white nettle
rabbits	Garlic, marigolds, onions
Moles	Castor oil, daffodils
Ants	Peppermint and spearmint, tansy, wormwood, lavender, small valerian
Cabbage fly (larvae)	Garlic, marigolds, radish, sage, wormwood
Carrot fly	Lettuce, leek, onion, rosemary, sage, tobacco, wormwood
Mice	Wormwood, garlic, rank
Nematodes	Marigold, calendula
Codling moth apple	Garlic, wormwood
Slugs, snails	Fennel, garlic, rosemary, parsley, oak bark
scoop	Shiritsa, oak bark
Cotton scoop	bullshit, marigolds, space
Peach glass case	Garlic
Pumpkin glass case	Radish
Aphids	Catnip, coriander, chives, fennel, garlic, marigold, mustard, nasturtium, mint and most aromatic herbs
leafhopper	Geranium, petunia

insects or animals

Plants

whitefly

Nasturtium, peppermint, thyme, wormwood

Nasturtium

Peppermint

Wormwood

White cabbage

Celery, tomatoes, peppermint, sage, wormwood and medicinal

Celery

Sage

Wormwood medicinal

Earth fleas

Catnip, peppermint and spearmint, rue, wormwood and medicinal, tobacco, tansy, head and leaf lettuce

Kotovnik

Spearmint

Hawk hawk five-spotted

Dill, borage, basil

Borage, borage, borage

Basil opal well frightens hawk hawk

Cabbage butterfly caterpillars

Dill, garlic, geranium, hyssop, peppermint, nasturtium, onion, sage, tansy, thyme, medicinal wormwood

Geranium on the street

Sage

Colorado beetle

Kotovnik, coriander, nasturtium, onion, tansy, horseradish, vegetable beans, white nettle

horseradish

Vegetable beans

White lamb

Garlic, marigolds, onions

Castor oil, daffodils

castor oil

daffodils

Peppermint and spearmint, tansy, wormwood, lavender, small valerian

Lavender

small valerian

Cabbage fly (larvae)

Garlic, marigolds, radish, sage, wormwood

Carrot fly

Lettuce, leek, onion, rosemary, sage, tobacco, wormwood

Leek

Rosemary

Wormwood, garlic, rank

China meadow

Perennial sweet pea(rank)

Nematodes

Potato (golden) nematode

Marigold, calendula

Calendula

Codling moth apple

Garlic, wormwood

Slugs, snails

Fennel, garlic, rosemary, parsley, oak bark

Cotton scoop

Geranium, marigolds, space

Cosmea (double-pinnate cosmos)

Peach glass case

Garlic

Pumpkin glass case

Catnip, coriander, chives, fennel, garlic, marigold, mustard, nasturtium, mint and most aromatic herbs

Fennel

Coriander (cilantro)

chives

Geranium, petunia

Petunias

Planted at the porch or on the front lawn, castor bean creates comfort for those who like to spend summer evenings outdoors - it repels mosquitoes.

If you plant it near wetlands, mosquito breeding will slow down. Mosquitoes and flies are also repelled by tansy.

Ants do not like mint. If this herb is scattered around a place where food is stored, it will protect it from invading ants. Dry leaves of wormwood, rosemary, sage, lavender and mint repel house moths, tomato plants and extract from wormwood leaves - flies.

To maintain soil fertility at a constant level, rotation of crops and the introduction of organic fertilizers, mainly compost. All the necessary nutrients (nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, calcium, etc.) are added to the soil in the form of organic matter along with the compost. Therefore, it is important that it contains all these substances in sufficient quantities. To do this, it should be added to those plants that accumulate any element in their organs and enrich the compost with this element. For example, buckwheat accumulates calcium, dope leaves are very rich in phosphorus, stems and leaves of tobacco - in potassium, melon leaves - in calcium, nettle - in iron. In addition, it is recommended to add small amounts of chamomile, valerian, dandelion, yarrow, oak bark to the compost. They stimulate composting and improve the quality of the compost. Compost from birch or hawthorn leaves is recommended to be applied on depleted soils.

It is advisable to sow a mixture of mustard and rapeseed to improve the soil that has degraded due to the introduction of large doses. mineral fertilizers. Birch and elder can be planted next to compost heaps. They not only protect them with their shade from drying out and overheating in the sun, but also accelerate the ripening of compost with their roots.

Basic rules for sequencing crops

1. The main culture, which requires a lot of time to ripen, can return to one bed no earlier than three years later. For carrots, beets, peas, cucumbers and parsley, this period increases, as they react poorly to their own root secretions.

2. The main crop can be returned to the original bed earlier if cereals (wheat, rye, oats) are sown after it, or green manure.

3. Prior and subsequent crops with a short maturation period should not follow each other.

4. Vegetables of the same family should not follow each other on the same bed either in a small (during the season) or in a large crop rotation. This rule must be observed especially strictly in relation to vegetables from the haze family, since they are very sensitive to their own root secretions.

5. If the bed is well fertilized with compost or rotted manure, then it is advisable to grow all types of cabbage, celery, leeks, cucumbers and tomatoes on it, and less demanding crops on beds not fertilized with manure: root crops, onions, legumes.

The sequence in which crops are placed should also take into account their impact on the soil. Some species loosen its roots, enrich organic matter and nitrogen, others condense and deplete. In table. 5 shows the classification of vegetable crops in terms of their impact on the soil.

Characteristics of vegetable crops as predecessors

P e r e c t i o n

Favorable interaction between herbs and horticultural crops

(pivot table)

Herbs	cultures
Basil	Peppers, tomatoes
Velvet	Potatoes, roses, tomatoes
Borage	Beans, strawberries, tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage
Mustard	Beans, grapes, fruit trees
Oregano	beans
Hyssop	cabbage, grapes
Chervil	Radish
Nettle	Tomatoes, mint
Lavender	beans
Onion	Beets, cabbage, lettuce, strawberries
Mint	cabbage, tomatoes
Nasturtium	Radish
Dandelion	Fruit trees
Parsley	Peas, tomatoes, leeks, roses, strawberries
Rosemary	beans
Chamomile	Cucumbers, onions, most herbs
yarrow	Beans, most aromatic herbs
Dill	Cabbage, onion, lettuce, cucumber
Horseradish	Potato
Savory	Eggplant, potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans
Garlic	Roses, tomatoes, cucumbers, strawberries, beets, carrots
Sage	Cabbage, carrots, strawberries, tomatoes
chives	Carrots, grapes, tomatoes, roses
Tarragon	Most vegetables

bad neighbors
(pivot table)

Belonging of vegetable crops to botanical families

botanical family	cultures
Cabbage (cruciferous)	Rutabaga, mustard leaf, all types of cabbage, watercress, radish, radish, turnip, turnip, horseradish
Celery (umbrella)	Carrots, parsnips, parsley, celery, dill, cumin, fennel
Aster (composite)	All types of lettuce, chicory
Goosebumps	Beetroot, chard, spinach
Pumpkin	Cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, melon, zucchini, squash
Onion (lily)	All types of onions, garlic
Nightshade	Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, potatoes
Legumes	Peas, beans, beans, soybeans
Valerian	Valerian vegetable
Buckwheat	Rhubarb, sorrel
bluegrass	Corn

EXAMPLES OF MIXED LANDINGS

A certified German horticulturist, Hubmann, has been studying compatibility for decades. horticultural crops and as a result developed 50 combinations. Here we will describe some of them (with a bed width of 1 m).

Combination 1: three rows of carrots, four rows of chives, four rows of spinach. The rows are placed in the sequence: chives - spinach - carrots - chives - spinach - carrots, etc. In the middle row of carrots, several tomato plants can be planted (four plants per 3 m). Spinach can be replaced with watercress or chives. Spinach is removed first. Chives from sevka ripen in mid-summer, and carrots remain in the garden, their leaves grow luxuriantly and cover the entire surface of the garden. This combination combines crops with different growth rates, which are harvested at different times, so that competition between them is minimized. Each culture develops well and gives high yield: 1.5 kg of spinach, 2.5 kg of onion and 4 kg of carrots are harvested from 1 m2.

Combination 2: four rows of chives, three of spinach, two of watercress, one of chervil, three of parsley. Cultures are arranged in the sequence: onion, watercress, parsley, spinach, onion, chervil, parsley, spinach, onion, watercress, parsley, spinach, onion. Watercress is harvested first, then spinach, and in the middle of summer - onions. Parsley remains in the garden, which grows and gives a lot of leaves.

Combinations 3 and 4: two rows of young strawberries, which are planted in August in the middle of the garden; three rows leaf parsley between them and along the edges of the beds are sown in the spring of next year: it drives away slugs from strawberries. Before sowing parsley, the earth is loosened, strawberry whiskers are removed, and compost is added. Parsley loves lungs fertile soils with a high content of humus. After strawberries are harvested, their plants are removed, and parsley remains for the winter.

For comparison, here is an example of another combination with strawberries. In August, it is planted, in early September, the aisles are sown with valerian or spinach. The following year, kohlrabi or beans are planted between the rows of strawberries. After harvesting, strawberries are removed and green manure is sown. German gardeners believe that it is most rational to use strawberries only in the first year of fruiting. This makes it much easier to take care of her.

Combination 5: in the middle of the bed - one row of head lettuce, on both sides of it - two rows of spinach, behind it - two rows of cauliflower (distance in a row 50 cm), along the edges of the bed two rows of chives interspersed with radish. In a row of head lettuce, one tomato plant is planted every meter. Harvesting sequence: spinach, radish, chives, cauliflower, head lettuce. When only tomatoes remain in the garden, you can add compost and carry out a second sowing: three rows of black radish, two of head lettuce, and again chives with radish along the edges. Radish moderately inhibits the development of tomatoes, so their yield is slightly reduced. But in mixed crops, the goal is to obtain a high total vegetable yield per unit area, and not each individual crop.

A few more Hubmann combinations:

cucumbers - one row, spinach - two, chives - two, chives - two;
spinach - five rows, cauliflower - two;
beets - four rows, kohlrabi + head lettuce - three;
beets - one row, cauliflower or white cabbage + celery - two;
kohlrabi - three rows, radish - four, spinach - six;
tomatoes - one row, kohlrabi + head lettuce - three, spinach - two, chives + radish - two;
tomatoes + head lettuce - one row, cabbage + head lettuce - two, spinach - two;
bush beans - three rows, tomatoes - one, radishes - four;
early potatoes - two rows, chives - one, spinach - four, radish - two;
cucumbers + tomatoes - one row, head lettuce - two, chives - two, chives - two.

Now let's describe an exemplary garden in which crop rotation is established. Here you can feel the influence of the American and English traditions, so the nature of the combination of cultures is somewhat different: more attention is paid to herbs.

Example 1 The garden is divided into four equal sections. At the first, the main crop is potatoes. Ten rows are occupied by early potatoes, they alternate with rows of leeks; ten - late, alternating with bush beans. On the same site from the edge - two rows of young, not yet fruitful strawberries. The second site is the place of legumes. Rows of peas, beans, beans are interspersed with rows of seedlings of cabbage, Brussels sprouts, broccoli (we are talking about a two-year culture of winter cabbage). At the end of the plot - two rows of strawberries of the first year of fruiting. The third plot is occupied by cabbage sown in the previous season. After harvesting the cabbage, seedlings of tomatoes, turnips, lettuce, and radishes are planted. The plot is closed by two rows of strawberries of the second year of fruiting. The fourth section - root crops (carrots, beets, radishes, turnips), onions, lettuce, pumpkin, kohlrabi. Here are two rows of strawberries last year. Green crops and grasses grow as companion crops in each plot. Alternation of the main crops: potatoes, legumes, cabbage, root crops. Strawberries are in one place for four years, two of them are of maximum productivity. Four years later, strawberries are moved to the other end of the plot. Bushes at the end of the garden berry crops and fruit trees.

Example 2 The site is divided by a path approximately into two equal parts, left and right. At the top right are compost heaps Immediately behind them is a bed of tomatoes, bordered on one side with parsley, on the other with chives. This is followed by the first sowing of carrots with radishes, rarely sown to mark the rows. Behind them is the first sowing of peas. Between its rows, when the weather becomes warm enough, sweet peppers are planted. By the time the peppers have grown and require more sunlight, the peas will be ripe and harvested. Behind the rows of peas is the second crop of carrots, followed by the second crop of peas. Chicory is planted between rows of peas. This is followed by a block of sweet corn - four rows interspersed with two holes of pumpkin - this is the first sowing of corn. Right side closes the row of marjoram.

The left side of the garden begins with two rows of cucumbers, which are surrounded by borage and dill. This is followed by five rows of bush beans, interspersed with rows of spinach. Behind them are successive leaf lettuce crops and a head lettuce nursery. From here, its seedlings are taken and planted among other crops. Next are the rows of the second crop of corn, alternating with the rows of the third crop of peas. Here, among the corn, there are four more holes with a pumpkin. Even further, a mixture of wax beans and head lettuce. The beans are followed by beets marked with radishes. Then - three rows of broccoli interspersed with oregano.

beans. The most favorable relationship, which can be described as mutual assistance, exists between beans and cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. They go well with sweet corn, potatoes, radishes. radish, spinach, mustard. The inclusion of beans in the planting of these crops improves their nitrogen supply. Fragrant basil, planted next to beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, lavender, oregano, rosemary, yarrow. It is not recommended to plant beans with onions, leeks, chives and garlic. The neighborhood of marigolds and wormwood is bad for beans.

Grape. In Moldova, as mentioned earlier, a large number of cultivated plants have been studied for their compatibility with grapes. A stimulating effect on the growth of grapes was provided by corn, beans, rye, potatoes, radishes, and oilseed radishes. A negative effect was noted during joint plantings with onions, barley, soybeans, cabbage. The incompatibility of grapes and cabbage has been known for a long time. Already in ancient greece knew cabbage was the enemy vine. This may seem surprising, because other plants of the cabbage family are not so hostile to grapes, while radish and oilseed radish, on the contrary, have a beneficial effect on it.

Peas. Mutual assistance relations were noted in peas with carrots, turnips, and cucumbers. It grows well between the rows of these crops, helping them in turn by enriching the soil with nitrogen, like all legumes. Peas can be combined on the same bed with radish, radish, head lettuce, kohlrabi, parsley. Combinations of peas with types of onions, garlic, tomatoes are unfavorable. Of the herbs, wormwood has a bad effect on peas. There are conflicting opinions about the relationship of peas with potatoes and cabbage: some authors consider these combinations quite possible, others treat them negatively.

Cabbage. Different types of cabbage are characterized by rather close preferences in relation to accompanying plants.

Mutual aid relationships are noted in cabbage with bush beans and celery. These species favorably act on each other, and celery, in addition, protects cabbage from earthen fleas. Dill, planted between the rows of cabbage, improves its taste and repels caterpillars, aphids. The proximity of borage grass is also favorable for cabbage, it has a good effect on cabbage and drives snails away with its hard hairy leaves. A very good companion crop for cabbage is all types of lettuce. They also protect her from the earthen flea. Cabbage also needs protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay their eggs on the leaves. This role can be played by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant thyme, sage, rosemary, mint, hyssop, medicinal wormwood, chamomile around plantings of cabbage. Leek repels cutworm caterpillars. Cabbage can be combined on the same bed with cucumbers, tomatoes, spinach, beets, chard, potatoes, chicory. There is no consensus on its compatibility with strawberries and onions. Of all types of cabbage, kohlrabi is the most suitable partner for table beets and bad neighbor for tomatoes. Cabbage does not go well with parsley and suffers greatly from close-growing grapes. Tansy does not work well on kale.

Potato. Favorably growing potatoes in a mixed culture. It is less sick and can grow longer in one place without reducing the yield. The best partners for potatoes are spinach, bush beans and beans. Beans planted between rows enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potato goes well with cabbage, especially cauliflower and kohlrabi, lettuce, corn, radish. Many authors note that a small number of horseradish plants planted in the corners of a potato plot have a beneficial effect on potatoes. colorado potato beetle repel catnip, coriander, nasturtium, tansy, marigolds. It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery; sunflower and quinoa have a depressing effect on potatoes.

Concerning the relationship of potatoes with tomatoes, beets and peas, there are opposite opinions.

Strawberry. Strawberries are favorably affected by bush beans, spinach, parsley. Parsley is recommended to be planted between the rows of strawberries to repel slugs. Strawberries can be combined with garlic, cabbage, lettuce, onions, radishes, radishes, beets. Of the herbs, borage (borage) and sage work well for her. Mulching the soil with spruce and pine needles contributes to a significant improvement in the taste of strawberries.

Corn. It belongs to plants that are very demanding on nutrition, therefore it is advised to alternate blocks of corn with blocks of bush beans; she benefits from the neighborhood of this leguminous plant, soil improver. Corn is combined with cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, beans, early potatoes. These crops stimulate its growth. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. In terms of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It favorably affects sunflower, potatoes, grapes. Bad neighbors for her are celery and beetroot.

Onion. The classic combination is onions and carrots. These two cultures protect each other from pests: carrots drive away onion fly, and the onion is a carrot fly. Thanks to its compact form, onions are used as an additional crop, which is placed in the aisles of the main crop. It is combined with beets, lettuce, cucumbers, strawberries, spinach, radishes, watercress. There is no consensus regarding the combination of onions with cabbage. Some authors believe that onions have a good effect on cabbage and drive away pests. Savory bordering is favorable for onion growth, chamomile also works well for it, but in small quantities: approximately one plant per 1 linear meter. m beds. Onions do not combine with beans, peas, beans. For him, the neighborhood of sage is unfavorable.

Leek. Companion plants for leeks are celery, bush beans, head lettuce, carrots, beets. Leeks and celeriacs have a helpful relationship, so it is recommended to plant them in alternating rows.

Perennial onion (chives). It goes well with tomatoes, celery, lettuce, cabbage, carrots, strawberries, endives, it is not recommended to plant next to peas, beans, beets.

Carrot. It tolerates the neighborhood of many crops, grows well next to onions and spinach, and also goes well with tomatoes, radishes, radishes, chard, chives, garlic, lettuce. But the closest plant to the carrot with which it has a mutual assistance relationship is the pea. Carrots are recommended to be surrounded by the following crops to repel carrot flies: rosemary, sage, tobacco, onions. Hostile herbs - dill, anise.

Cucumbers. For cucumbers, satellite plants are bush and curly beans, celery, beets, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, onions, chives, radishes, spinach, fennel. Beans have the most favorable effect on cucumbers, so it is advised to plant beans around a plot with cucumbers. The cucumbers themselves are planted around corn, which greatly benefits from such a neighborhood. Favorable herbs for cucumbers are chamomile, dill, borage. The question of the compatibility of cucumbers with tomatoes is not clear. Different authors express directly opposite opinions on this matter: some believe that this good combination, others - that this is an absolutely impossible combination. So every gardener will have to find out this question most empirically.

Parsley. It is a companion plant for many crops: asparagus, roses, celery, leeks, peas, tomatoes, radishes, strawberries, lettuce. It is recommended to plant along the edges of the beds with tomatoes. Planted next to roses, it reduces the number of aphids on them; planted in the aisles of strawberries - drives away slugs.

Pepper. Companion plant - basil, hostile plant - fennel.

Radish. It tolerates mixed plantings with tomatoes, spinach, parsley, chard, types of onions, garlic, types of cabbage, strawberries, peas. Especially favorable for radish is its combination in the same row with leaf and head lettuce, which protect it from earthen flea. Radishes planted between bush beans have a particularly delicate taste and large root crops. Beans also protect radishes from pests. Since radish seeds germinate quickly, it is recommended to plant them together with slow-growing crops (beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips) to mark the rows. Radishes do not like intense heat, so they are often sown in alternating rows with chervil, which shade them a little and protect them from overheating. Nasturtium and watercress, bordering radish beds, improve the taste of radishes, adding sharpness, and under the influence of leaf lettuce, it becomes more delicate. The neighborhood of hyssop is unfavorable for radishes. Some gardeners believe that cucumbers are also a bad neighbor for him.

Turnip. Companion plant - pea. Unfavorable for turnips are gulyavnik, mustard and highlander bird (knotweed).

Salad. Head and leaf lettuce (chives) goes well with most garden crops. It is a good companion for tomatoes, cucumbers, curly and bush beans, chives, spinach, strawberries, peas. Its neighborhood is especially favorable for vegetables from the cruciferous family - all types of cabbage, radish, radish, as it repels the earthen flea. And for him, the neighborhood of an onion that repels aphids is useful. Lettuce does not like overheating and needs partial shading, but only partial, so the close proximity of plants with dense foliage, such as carrots, beets, is unfavorable for lettuce. Lettuce bushes can be placed in different places garden, where it will grow under the cover of taller plants. The neighborhood of chrysanthemums is especially favorable for him.

Table beet. Hubmann, who has tested the compatibility of red beets with other vegetables for many years, claims that five types of vegetables - potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans, beets and spinach - stimulate each other. According to his observations, beets. it also has a very good effect on cabbage of all kinds, lettuce, radish and radish, the neighborhood of onions, kohlrabi, spinach, lettuce is especially favorable for beets, in addition, it tolerates joint plantings with garlic, cucumbers, strawberries, celery root. Regarding the incompatibility of beets with other crops, there is no consensus. Some gardeners claim that it does not grow well in the neighborhood of chives, corn and potatoes. Chard, which belongs to the same botanical family as the beet, is also subject to controversy. One author claims that it has a beneficial effect on beets, another that vegetables of this family cannot stand each other's root secretions and therefore they cannot be planted side by side. There are suggestions that beet root secretions have antibiotic properties and therefore its replanting to some crops, in particular to carrots, can have a healing effect on them. But at the same time, one should not forget about observing a sufficient distance between plants, since the powerful beet foliage obscures neighboring crops.

Celery. Celery and white cabbage have a mutual assistance relationship: cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, and celery drives white butterflies away from cabbage. Celery goes well with tomatoes, spinach, cucumbers, lettuce, beets. Chives and bush beans are especially beneficial to it, it is not recommended to plant celery next to corn, potatoes, parsley, carrots.

Tomatoes. Tomatoes are considered by some to be "selfish" plants that like to grow on their own, separate from other crops. But the experience of German and Swiss gardeners says that tomatoes tolerate the neighborhood of other vegetables well and are quite suitable for mixed plantings. They go well with celery, endive, radish, radish, corn, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, carrots, beets. A mutually beneficial effect was noted with chives, spinach, bush beans, parsley, which is often planted as a border for tomato beds. Tomatoes hostile relations with kohlrabi, fennel and dill. As for the relationship of tomatoes with potatoes and cucumbers, opinions differ here, perhaps it depends on the method of planting. Favorable for tomatoes is the neighborhood of the following herbs that improve their taste and condition: basil, lemon balm, borage, chives, marigolds, mint, sage, savory. Dioecious nettle growing next to tomatoes improves the quality tomato juice and prolongs the shelf life of fruits.

Pumpkin. Wells with pumpkin are advised to be placed between corn plants. Corn shade the pumpkin in hot weather and saves it from overheating.

Beans. Bush beans are the friendliest vegetable of the legume family. Relationships of mutual assistance and mutual stimulation were noted for beans and radishes, all types of cabbage, corn, celery, cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes, beets, and spinach. With root secretions rich in nitrogen, beans help other types of vegetables growing next to them. In addition, it is compatible with chard, lettuce, strawberries, leeks. Beans do not tolerate the neighborhood of onions, garlic, fennel, peas. Of herbs for beans, savory is recommended, which protects it from black aphids.

Garlic. Apparently, in Western Europe it is not very popular, so it is rarely used in mixed plantings. It is known that garlic goes well with tomatoes, beets, carrots, cucumbers, strawberries and has a bad effect on beans, peas, cabbage.

Spinach. Spinach is a favorite member of the vegetable community in Germany and Switzerland. Many positive qualities are attributed to him, including cold resistance, a short ripening period, and a compact form. All this makes it a very convenient crop for consecutive and combined plantings. In addition, spinach roots have a beneficial effect on soil properties, and saponin, which is part of its root secretions, stimulates the absorption of nutrients by the roots of vegetables growing next to it. Relations of mutual favorable influence are noted for spinach and potatoes, tomatoes, beans, and beets. The most common combinations are spinach with kohlrabi, radish, lettuce. It also goes well with carrots, onions, parsley, watercress, celery, cabbage, strawberries. Spinach has no hostile relationship with any plant species.

All of the above advice on how to grow vegetables should be taken as guidelines and not as absolute rules. Each gardener should test them on his site with the varieties available to him in relation to local conditions.

The described methods provide effective use the entire area of the garden during the whole summer season. With this method of cultivation, a plot of 100 m2 can feed a family of four.

One more thing should be mentioned important advice experienced gardeners. This concerns the preparation of an annual landing plan. It is needed in order, firstly, to observe the correct alternation of crops over the years in accordance with the rotation rules described above, and secondly, to plan the sowing and replanting of one crop to another at the beginning of the year. All this is difficult to remember and keep in mind, especially with a wide variety of crops, so a garden plan is absolutely necessary.

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Compatible plants:

For beans, the most favorable neighbors are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, spinach. The inclusion of beans in the plantings of these plants improves the nutrition of the latter with nitrogen. Fragrant basil, planted next to beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow.

Radish and oilseed radish have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Relationships of mutual assistance were noted in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard repels pea codling moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes are isolated biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.

Strawberries are favorably affected by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley, planted in the aisles of strawberries - repels slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, garlic. Of the herbs, borage (orypechnaya grass) and sage work well for her. Mulching the soil during the formation of fruits with spruce and pine needles - significantly improves the taste of strawberries;

White cabbage as neighbors prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes.
Dill, planted between rows of cabbage, improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from ground fleas and cabbage flies, but attracts cabbage whites with its smell, which means that it is undesirable to place them together.
Cabbage is also favored by the proximity to borage, which has a good effect on cabbage and drives snails away with its hard, hairy leaves.
A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the earthen flea.
Cabbage is in great need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay their eggs on its leaves. This role can be played by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, sage around plantings of cabbage.
Leek repels cutworm caterpillars.
In the aisle of cabbage, it is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtium, marigolds - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, whites.
Pasternak attracts predatory insects destroying caterpillars.
Head lettuce, celery onions, and beets are compatible with broccoli.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.

Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. Potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans feed the potatoes with nitrogen. The above plants complement each other favorably, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in a mixed culture with compatible plants, it gets sick less and grows in one place for many years, with a stable yield. Potatoes are not indifferent to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between the rows of potatoes enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potato goes well with cabbage, especially with colored kohlrabi, corn, radish and different types lettuce, Horseradish planted in bushes on a potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight.

Corn is one of the most demanding plants in terms of nutrition, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is the mainstay. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. In terms of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes, sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soy protects corn from turtle bugs
Bad neighbors for corn - table beet and celery

Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel onion fly, and onion - carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is favorable for onion growth, chamomile also works well for it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one - per running meter beds).
By placing individual plants onions and garlic next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot.

Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, garlic, radishes and radishes, but are not compatible with cabbage.
Root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the garden - heal carrots.

Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets.

Strawberries are grown under sea buckthorn or medicinal herbs: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.

Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage, but shun the vine. If dill is sown between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and hence the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers.

The nut has no compatible crops;

Tomatoes will help spring garlic and dill. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To scare away butterflies, codling moths and protect against scab of pears and apple trees, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans.
Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes;

Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkins and spinach;

Lettuce repels earthen flea from radish, radish, cabbage;

Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. This is facilitated, as well - nasturtium and watercress.

Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;

Celery prefers neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onions, cucumber, cabbage

Currants are not damaged by bud mites if you plant onions between bushes and leave them in the ground for the winter.

Soy is friendly with all cultures.

Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against the nematode.

Beans, pumpkins and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds, shading the soil with its foliage, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, as they take moisture and nutrients from different horizons of the soil, different mineral elements are needed for their development, and they relate differently to lighting.

Spicy plants are sown between vegetables and trees - anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides - prevents the spread of pests and diseases.

If marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory are planted between the ridges of potatoes or onions, bunches of rye straw are plowed into the soil, they will protect these crops from nematode damage. Marigolds, mustard leaf, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.

If you make a marigold border around the area on which the roses are planted, the defeat of roses by nematodes will become impossible.

Parsley will drive away ants, and it also heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Tansy cineraria, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, cabbage scoop caterpillars and whitefish, and apple trees from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and red tansy close to it. These plants are also known under the names of Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.

Get along with the salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;

Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, sugar beets. Beans are useful for planting other crops, as they help get rid of the meadow moth.

Garlic protects asters, carnations, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, black leg, black spot and fusarium, reduces the incidence of carnation gray mold.

Apple tree - raspberry

Stevia (Honey grass) - can grow next to garlic, even in flower pot, on the window.

Celery, dill, onion, carrot well planted side by side. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.

Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;

Peas - incompatible with swede, beans, tomato;
Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic;

Combinations of peas with all kinds of onions, tomatoes, garlic, swede, beans are unfavorable;

Poor effect on peas - wormwood;

The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;

Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage is not combined with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from closely growing grapes;
Tansy does not work well on kale.

Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight disease in him);
Potatoes are oppressed by: cherry, apple tree, raspberry, mountain ash, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkin;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;

Bad neighbors for corn are table beets and celery;

Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted side by side (gooseberry fire damage);

Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans, (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this contributes to the reproduction of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;

Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshade - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;

Cucumbers are suppressed by tomatoes;
Cucumbers feud with potatoes and aromatic herbs;

The peach depresses the cherry, pear and apple tree. They need to be planted away from each other.

Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce;

Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnip, peas, beets, parsley, apple tree, red cabbage; Tomatoes are oppressed by potatoes and turnips.

Radish - spinach;
Redkin's enemy is hyssop;

Lettuce is incompatible with leaf mustard;

Beets do not get along well with potatoes, spinach, corn;

Poplar is very aggressive - many people suffocate in its vapors. cultivated plants(apple, corn);

Pumpkin - potatoes;

Beans - suppressed by shallots;

Fennel - oppresses almost all cultivated plants.

The action of herbs: sage is incompatible with onions, marigolds have a bad effect on beans, wormwood - on beans and peas, and tansy - on leafy cabbage;

Good neighbors.
basil + tomato;
eggplant + peas, potatoes, beans;
marigolds + strawberries, potatoes. against the nematode.
birch + aspen
beans + potatoes, petunia (for protection);
cherry + raspberry;
peas + eggplant, potatoes, corn, carrots, oats, cucumber, petunia (for protection), radish, celery, turnip, beans;
strawberry + borage, cabbage, onion, leek, carrot, radish, lettuce, garlic (garlic repels strawberry weevil pest), spinach. Tagetis, Chernobrovtsy, marigolds and calendula (marigolds) are used against nematodes.
hyssop + cabbage (repels cabbage scoop);
zucchini + corn;
calendula (marigold) + strawberries, potatoes. against the nematode.
cabbage + strawberries, hyssop (repels cabbage scoops), potatoes, onions, mint (repels cabbage scoops and butterflies), peppermint (repels cabbage whites), nasturtium, cucumber, radish, chamomile, lettuce, beets, celery, tomato, dill, sage;
late cabbage - kohlrabi cabbage;
kohlrabi cabbage + late cabbage, cucumber, parsley;
potatoes + eggplant, beans, peas, cabbage, corn, nasturtium, parsley, radish, lettuce, beets, dill, beans, horseradish, garlic. Tagetis, Chernobrovtsy, marigolds and calendula (marigolds) are used against nematodes.
strawberry + see "strawberry";
gooseberry - tomato;
corn + peas, zucchini, potatoes, cucumber;
onion + strawberry, cabbage, carrot, cucumber, parsley, chamomile, lettuce, celery, tomato;
leeks + strawberries;
raspberries + cherries, garlic;
carrots + peas, strawberries, onions (to protect against carrot flies), lettuce, tomato, dill, sage;
mint + cabbage (repels cabbage scoop), tomato (improves fruit);
cucumber + peas, cabbage, kohlrabi cabbage, corn, onion, parsley, lettuce, beets, celery, dill, beans;
aspen + birch
parsley + kohlrabi cabbage, potatoes, onions, cucumbers;
radish + cabbage, nasturtium, lettuce;
radish + peas, strawberries, potatoes;
lettuce + strawberries, cabbage, potatoes, onions, carrots, cucumbers, radishes;
beets + cabbage, potatoes, cucumbers;
celery + peas, cabbage, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, beans, spinach;
asparagus - tomato;
tagetis + strawberries, potatoes. against the nematode.
tomato + basil, borage, calendula, cabbage, gooseberries, onions, tubular monarda (improves quality), carrots, mint (improves quality), celery, asparagus, beans;
turnip + peas;
pumpkin + borage, nasturtium;
dill + cabbage, potatoes, carrots, cucumbers;
beans + eggplant, peas, potatoes, cucumbers, petunia (for protection), celery, tomato;
horseradish - potatoes;
Chernobrivtsy + strawberries, potatoes. against the nematode.
garlic + gladioli, strawberries (garlic repels strawberry pest weevil), potatoes, raspberries;
sage - cabbage, carrots;
spinach + strawberries, celery.
apple + raspberry, herbs

Plants-biodefenders (universal):

bad neighbors

Incompatibility of garden, horticultural crops, herbs and shrubs

Bad neighbors to each other (deplete food and / or attract pests):
eggplant - onion, tomato, fennel, garlic;
birch - oak swede - peas;
cherry - potatoes;
peas - swede, onion, tomato, beans, fennel, garlic;
oak - birch strawberry - cabbage;
cabbage - strawberries, onions, tomatoes, beans, fennel;
kohlrabi cabbage - tomato;
red cabbage - tomato;
potatoes - cherry, onion, raspberry, cucumber, hazel, celery, tomato, pumpkin, fennel;
strawberry - see "strawberry";
onions - eggplant, peas, cabbage, potatoes, beans;
leeks - dahlias;
raspberries - potatoes;
carrots - gladioli, fennel;
cucumber - potatoes, parsley, tomato, fennel, sage. Tomato depresses (suppresses) cucumber even in the neighboring garden
hazel - does not have compatible crops;
parsley - cucumber, head lettuce, tomato;
radish - spinach;
turnip - tomato;
head salad - parsley;
beets - tomato;
celery - potatoes, beans;
tobacco - tomato;
tomato - eggplant, peas, cabbage, red cabbage, kohlrabi cabbage, potatoes, cucumber (tomato suppresses cucumber even in the neighboring garden), turnip, beetroot, parsley, tobacco, fennel, apple tree;
pumpkin - potatoes;
beans - peas, cabbage, onions, celery;
fennel - eggplant, peas, cabbage, potatoes, carrots, cucumber, tomato;
garlic - eggplant, peas;
sage - cucumber;
spinach - radish;
apple tree - cherry, gladiolus, tomato.

Combined planting in the garden.

Beans + borage (borage), oregano, rosemary;
Eggplant + peas, beans, thyme;
Peas + eggplant, corn, carrots, cucumbers, radishes, radishes, turnips;
Cabbage + anise, borage, hyssop, potatoes, head lettuce, onion, mint, parsley;
Rosemary, beets, celery, dill, sage;
Potatoes + beans, peas, cabbage, corn, beans, thyme;
Coriander + anise; Corn + peas, potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin;
Onions + borage, carrots, radishes, beets, celery, tomatoes, dill, savory;
Leek + celery;
Carrot + lettuce, onion, garlic, sage, dill;
Cucumbers + peas, cabbage, corn, sunflower, radish, radish, dill, beans;
Pepper + basil;
Parsley + carrots, asparagus;
Sunflower + cucumbers;
Radishes + peas, chervil, cucumbers, lettuce;
Turnip + peas; Beets + onions, lettuce, beans, garlic;
Head lettuce + beans, peas, onions, dill, beans;
Beets + kohlrabi, onions;
Celery + cabbage, onion, tomato, beans;
Tomatoes + basil, parsley, onion, mint, parsley, celery, asparagus, dill, thyme, sage;
Dill, spinach + cabbage, radish, turnip;
Beans + most garden crops with the exception of beets;
Garlic + tomato, cucumber, beets, carrots.

Given these features, it is possible to grow different crops on the same bed.

1 Cucumber salad, peppers, beans, seedlings of late crops, basil, dill, radish.

2. Tomatoes - beans, dill, carrots, lettuce, peppers.

3. Carrots - beans, dill, parsley, calendula.

4. Cabbage - carrots, beets, dill, celery.

5. Beetroot, lettuce, onion, coriander, parsnip.

6. Onions, garlic - dill, beans, carrots.

7 Peas - sunflower, corn, oats, rye.

8. Potatoes - beans, peas, cabbage, zucchini.

9. Radishes, lettuce, spinach can be grown in the aisles of the main crops.

A wide variety of vegetable crops are grown on the summer cottage. They belong to different families, and their planting dates do not coincide. In small gardens, compacted cultivation is used. How to ensure the compatibility of vegetable crops in one garden in a limited space?

Good Predecessors

Every year before the start of the gardening season, you should thoroughly consider the placement of plants in the garden. It is best to draw up a sowing plan that will come in handy for the coming season. Different can oppress each other or contribute to the spread of dangerous diseases. However, compatible plants, on the contrary, will promote better development and protect against pests. In order not to make a mistake, you must follow certain rules.

The plot for compacted planting provides additional nutrition to the increased volume of plants. For this, the soil must be sufficiently fertile and clean. At the beginning of the season, crop rotation is planned. Plants that were grown last year should not have the same pathogens and pests. At the same time, they should have a beneficial effect on each other, so the compatibility of plants in the garden is important. The table of the best predecessors is the instruction from which planning begins.

Analyze last year's plantings. Right choice will help to avoid many unpleasant moments when growing vegetables.

Predecessor table

When cultivating any crop, crop rotation should be observed. The information presented in the table will help to properly plan the site.

vegetable culture	The best predecessors
Nightshade	Legumes, cabbage, cucumbers
	Nightshade
Onion garlic	Peas, cabbage, radish
sweet corn	Potatoes, cabbage, beans
Sweet pepper	Cucumbers, beets, carrots, rutabaga, cabbage
Table beets	Cabbage, potatoes, cucumbers
Umbelliferae	Peas, cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes

Repeated cultivation of a plant in one place is also undesirable.

layout

When cultivating vegetable crops, information is needed on their mutual influence. To avoid an unfavorable neighborhood, you need to know exactly about the characteristics of vegetable crops. Allowable growing conditions for plants to be combined should be similar. This will help to accurately plan the entire area for the garden and achieve successful cultivation of various plants in compacted beds. In addition, individual crops not only have a beneficial effect, but also repel pests. The compatibility of plants in the garden is quite important. A detailed list of representatives of different families that coexist well in the garden contributes to the unmistakable determination of their placement. Equally important is information about plants with which co-growing is undesirable. They will oppress nearby vegetable crops.

Plant compatibility table

For the normal development of vegetables and obtaining a quality crop, they need to create favorable conditions. Proper agricultural practices combined with a successful combination of plants will contribute to the solution of many problems. The data given in the table will be useful when placing plants on the site.

Successful combinations

When planning crops, one should take into account the time of development of the usable area, the height and compatibility of plants in the garden. Carrots and onions go great together. They are placed in rows. Three rows of carrots alternate with four rows of onions. These plants favorably influence each other and at the same time protect against pests. A trio of plants will be successful. These are late white cabbage, head lettuce and spinach, which compact garden beds. You can name other examples of combinations of vegetables that have good compatibility of plants in the garden. The table will help everyone find the best pair. For example, early cabbage and celery, which have different planting dates. In early spring, seedlings of the first vegetable crop are planted. The distance when planting early cabbage can withstand at least fifty centimeters. Three weeks later, celery is added. Plants blend very well with different terms maturation. in the garden in this case is based on the fact that early ripening crops are placed along the edge of the beds of plants, the ripening period of which is longer. For example, a combination of planting tomatoes with several rows of dill for greens and onions for feathers, as well as spinach, will not interfere with the longer development of tomato bushes. The classic combination is corn and curly beans. In this example, one plant serves as a trellis for another.

lighthouse crops

Many plants have a long seed germination period. For an earlier designation of rows of such a vegetable crop, fast-germinating and early-ripening plants are used. They allow you to start tillage and agrotechnical activities at an earlier date. An example is the joint crops of radishes and carrots. By the time the root ripens, the early and early ripening vegetable has time to ripen and free up the area. In addition to radish, lettuce, spinach and dill are used. They are sown along the edge of the beds of cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers.

Guardians of vegetable plantings

Do not forget the aromatic herbs. These plants are fragrant, creating an amazing atmosphere around. Nearby vegetables under the influence of volatile substances become more stable. They are able to repel pests. medicinal plants, such as valerian and yarrow, planted along the edge of the beds, will be an excellent prophylactic that increases resistance to disease. Lettuce and spinach are plants that can increase the activity of neighbors. They will be good companions and have excellent plant compatibility in the garden. Table successful combinations vegetable crops confirms this statement. Lettuce and spinach are often recommended for co-growing with other vegetable crops.

Unfavorable Neighborhood

Most plants get along well in a limited space of beds. When placing them, the compatibility of plants in the garden is taken into account. A table of successful combinations of vegetable crops will help you distribute them correctly. However, we should not forget about the plants that will have a depressing effect on others. These include fennel and wormwood. For these vegetable crops, it is necessary to allocate a separate corner of the garden, which will provide privacy.