Mixed plantings and compatibility of plants in the garden and vegetable garden. Vegetables: the best neighbors in the garden Combination of plants in the garden table

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When planning beds in the garden, it is important to consider the compatibility of vegetable crops. Gardeners have often had to deal with the problem of low yields in the absence of any prerequisites for this. And the reason can be banal - an uncomfortable neighborhood, so you need to know what you can plant with and what not.

This article reveals all the secrets of arranging a garden, because the growth and development of both crops, and, most importantly, their fruiting, depend on which plant is planted in the immediate vicinity.

When disembarking, taking into account compatibility, it is quite realistic increase yield by 15-20%. Particular attention should be paid to the selection of a neighbor when placing several types of vegetables on the same bed or in a greenhouse.

Approximately the same growing conditions facilitate the care of shoots:

• lighting intensity;
• watering mode;
• soil preparation for planting;
• introduction of supplements.

If planted bad neighbors- this is fraught with the following consequences:

• attracting insects that create many problems for young shoots;
• fungal infection as a result of waterlogging;
• the negative impact of waste products, as a result of which the neighbor develops poorly or stops growing.

Experienced gardeners use invaluable knowledge in practice, annually observing the interaction of a number of planted plants.

To facilitate planning, they draw up a plan for the garden, breaking it into beds for vegetables and berry crops before planting. Thus, the rules of crop rotation and the laws of compatibility in the open field are taken into account.

What can be planted next to potatoes

One of the most popular vegetables on the list basic products for winter preparations. Before landing, predecessors are taken into account.

The best are:

• carrot;
• green manure;
• cucumber;
• legumes;
• pepper;
• cabbage;
• beet.

Not worth it use the same area annually, to get a good harvest with such a layout does not work. Also, low fruiting rates of potatoes are noted if it is placed on a former tomato garden.

With regard to neighbors, the plant shows more tolerance than mutually beneficial consolidation. The best compatibility is noted only with beans.

A little does not like to be friends with a vegetable with cucumbers, onion sets, tomatoes and cabbage. And certainly you should not place potatoes nearby: peas, beets and celery. With other plants, the root crop gets along normally.

Neighbors for tomatoes

A favorable place for the growth of tomatoes are considered areas on which the following crops were previously grown:

• cauliflower;
• turnip;
• cucumber;
• greenery;
• carrot;
• beet.

Among the worst predecessors: potatoes, peas and zucchini. According to the rules of crop rotation, vegetables are planted in the same place after 3-4 years, so you should not use the former tomato bed for tomato seedlings.

• beans;
• radish;
• corn;
• radish;
• cabbage;
• pepper;
• onions and other green vegetables.

There is no negative effect on tomatoes from neighboring beds with parsnips, strawberries, kohlrabi, lettuce, spinach.

Planting peppers with other vegetables

When planting pepper, it is worth considering the belonging of its varietal feature. Sweet, Bulgarian and bitter varieties are placed separately from each other to avoid cross-pollination. Of the predecessors are more suitable:

• legumes;
• cabbage (early varieties);
• greenery;
• cucumbers;
• wheat (winter);
• perennial herbs.

Not worth it choose sites after potatoes, eggplant, tomatoes and physalis. When growing other plants on the planned bed, there are no strict restrictions on pepper.

Arrange a bed with pepper can close to the following crops:

• carrots;
• basil
• bow;
• coriander.

If marigolds, oregano, nasturtium are planted for decorative purposes or prophylactic against pests, then the pepper will simply smell fragrant from such companions. And from the neighborhood with fennel, beans and kohlrabi should be abandoned.

cucumbers

The soil environment is more suitable for growing greens after cabbage and tomatoes. And predecessors from the pumpkin family are the most undesirable.

It has a positive effect on the yield of cucumbers Dill, so it is taken not only as a companion, but also sown mixed.

Favorable influence on the development of crunches is exerted by: onions, beans, peas, garlic, spinach. Calendula, placed in the aisle, will create a reliable protection against insects that feed on young cucumber foliage.

From the neighborhood with potatoes, radishes and tomatoes, it is recommended refuse, plants negatively affect each other.

Cabbage

Cabbage planting planned after peas, beans, cucumbers. Do not spoil the soil environment: peppers, carrots and herbs. And fodder beets and other representatives of cruciferous crops are considered poor predecessors.

Neighborhood with cabbage is easy to pick up, for a close environment fit many plants:

• beet;
• beans;
• sage;
• celery;
• Dill;
• salad.

It is allowed to plant flowers and herbs: oregano, chamomile, nasturtium, mint, etc. Won't fit in the role of companions strawberries and tomatoes.

Good neighbors for carrots in the garden

When choosing a place for sowing carrots, the following predecessors are preferred:

• cucumbers;
• tomatoes;
• potato;
• cabbage;
• leek;
• greenery;
• legumes.

Experienced gardeners notice that after zucchini, celery, parsnips and parsley, it turns out bad harvest carrots, the root crop develops poorly, as if it lacks nutrients (although top dressing is introduced on schedule).

Carrot beds should be planned in close proximity from these cultures:

• garlic;
• tomato;
• radish;
• peas.

In the aisle, you can plant sage, marigolds and scorzonera to repel pests.

Unfavorable Neighborhood celebrated with beets, beans and dill. Carrots get along with other plants without any problems.

vegetable marrow

Everyone's Favorite Zucchini bear fruit well on the soil after legumes and early varieties of cabbage. Do not spoil the structure of the soil and the environment: greens, onions, garlic.

And such predecessors as carrots, tomatoes and cabbage of late ripening are considered most unsuccessful.

Zucchini (squash) can be safely planted next to such plants:

• beans;
• corn;
• peas;
• beans.

Pumpkin

Disembarkation rules lots of pumpkins similar to zucchini, they share the same recommended predecessors. However, the neighborhood is a little extended, you can additionally add tomatoes, radishes and sunflowers.

The pumpkin culture does not tolerate only potatoes. Gets along well with other plants.

Beet

Beet sowing can do on the former beds:

• carrots;
• potatoes;
• cucumbers;
• Luke;
• greenery.

The root crop develops well after green manure. In addition, after such a change in layout, a decrease in the growth of weeds is noted.

Beets and onions are a good neighborhood

You can safely settle for beets: cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, onion. To scare away insects between the rows, you can plant catnip, mint, oregano.

• potato;
• corn;
• spinach;
• onion;
• carrot.

Growing in the garden with other neighbors does not cause much concern.

Next to what to plant strawberries in the open field

Strawberry culture does not show capriciousness to the soil environment, so there will be no difficulty in choosing a place for planting young shoots. Useful precursors for strawberries are:

• parsley;
• radish;
• garlic;
• legumes;
• corn;
• carrot;
• dill, etc.

It is worth refusing to use the plot for strawberries if there are previously grown:

• potato;
• tomatoes, peppers;
• eggplant;
• cabbage;
• raspberries

Arranging vegetable beds as neighbors for strawberries it is recommended to choose:

• spinach;
• salad;
• radish;
• cabbage;
• carrot.

With other plants, the sweet berry will also be comfortable, since there is no obvious rivalry between them.

What crops are suitable for neighborhood with eggplant

When choosing a place for planting eggplant, preference should be given to such predecessors: onions, cucumbers, early ripening cabbage, perennial herbs.

From former beds with potatoes, tomatoes, physalis and peppers it's better to refuse. It is also necessary to observe the rules of crop rotation, it is impossible to place and grow culture in the same place every year(an interval of at least 3 years is observed).

When planning an eggplant garden can pick up companions:

• peas;
• beans;
• basil;
• salad;
• tarragon;
• thyme.

The representative of the nightshade family gets along quite well with the rest of the neighbors. The blue ones have no special prohibitions on combining.

Peas and beans

The best predecessors for peas and beans, root vegetables, cabbage, and representatives of the pumpkin family are considered. The legumes themselves create the most favorable environment in the soil during growth, so after them you can grow almost everything.

Not worth it to organize a bed after sunflower, the quality and yield are significantly reduced due to the defeat of fungal infections and infestation with carrion.

When selecting companions, first of all, the neighborhood with each other (peas and beans) is excluded. This is caused by several factors at once:

• attracting pests;
• weaving stems together;
• the possibility of cross-pollination.

The most suitable for close proximity are:

• kohlrabi;
• carrot;
• salad;
• radish;
• celery;
• corn;
• cabbage;
• potato.

Landing with other cultures has no special restrictions.

Greenery

When choosing predecessors for greens (onions, dill, parsley, garlic, cilantro), preference should be given to legumes, vegetable roots.

Not recommended to plant greens after umbrella crops, the relatedness of plants indicates their identical nutrient needs. Because of this, every year the yield will decrease significantly.

Close to green planting can be placed beds with cabbage, kohlrabi, cucumbers, strawberries, peppers and other green vegetables. Definitely not suitable for co-cultivation: carrots, parsnips, tomatoes. The neighborhood of greenery with early varieties of potatoes and representatives of legumes is allowed.

Seeding table

It is useful to supplement the diary of a gardener with a table of compatibility of crops grown on your site.

in red incompatibility of cultures is indicated, green- the most favorable neighborhood for development and fruiting. colorless window indicates the neutrality of the interaction between plants, which does not exclude their neighborhood in the garden.

There is absolutely no difficulty in planning the beds, if everything is thought out in advance. Autumn tillage should be carried out taking into account the agricultural practices of those vegetables and berries that will be grown on it in the next season.

Plant compatibility table (allelopathy)

Compatibility of cultivated plants (allelopathy)

culture	Compatible	Incompatible	Design
White acacia			Against the background of dark conifers
Actinidia kolomikta	Currant	Apple tree, fruit and large trees	At home, along the supports
	old apple tree
	Potato	Tomatoes, horseradish, cabbage
	Corn, carrot, onion, parsley, celery	Tomatoes, beans, horseradish
	Asparagus, tomatoes
eggplant	Greens, onions, beans, potatoes, peppers	Beans, peas, cucumbers, aromatic herbs
Barberry		Suppresses the growth of other plants. cereals	Od. , gr. landing, live. izg.
Marigold	Strawberries, roses, tulips, gladioli
Paper birch, hanging	Old apple tree, cherry	"Burns" the pine	Rowan, willow, oak, linden, maple, beech, bird cherry on a background of coniferous
warty euonymus	Apple tree, fruit trees (attracts pests)
	Potatoes, pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, sunflower	Onion, garlic, celery, fennel
Brocolli	Celery, sage, beets, onions, potatoes, cucumbers	Tomatoes, beans, strawberries
	Lettuce, spinach, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkin, beets, tomatoes
Brussels sprouts	Celery, potatoes, beets, onions, cucumbers	Tomatoes, beans, strawberries
black elderberry	Protects currants, gooseberries, raspberries		Around the barn and in the garden
Grape		The smell of cabbage, laurel worsens the taste. Elm, hazel	Vertical gardening
		Apple, pear, apricot
Elm, mountain elm		Oppresses grapes, oak	Maple, linden
Gladiolus	Garlic, calendula
	Carrots, turnips, radishes, potatoes, cucumbers, beans, marigolds, calendula, fragrant herbs	Onion garlic
	Cabbage, turnip, peas
	Black poplar, maple(protects with phytoncides), oak	Walnut, Manchurian and black walnut, white locust, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry, stone fruit, wheatgrass, beech, dark coniferous (spruce, fir, cedar)
	Like radishes, radishes - beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, cucumbers, tomatoes, squash and squash	Peas, strawberries, cabbage
Delphinium
Tree pliers (red bubble) round-leaved		Do not plant near fruit trees	To decorate buildings
	old apple tree maple holly, linden, pine, cedar	White locust, ash, elm - not very	In groups with conifers
fragrant herbs	Peas, kohlrabi
	Corn, beans, radish, tomatoes	Potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage
	Rowan, hazel, raspberry	White acacia, horse chestnut, fir, lilac, Tatra maple, rose, wild rose, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry	Fir, pine, birch, maple, ash, shrubs
	Eggplant, tomatoes
strawberries	Beans, spinach, lettuce, onion, garlic, marigold, calendula	It is undesirable to grow after potatoes, eggplants, peppers, cabbage, cucumbers, asters, lilies, gladioli (so as not to get infected with their diseases)	Legumes, onions, garlic, greens. crops, radishes, celery, beets, carrots are good predecessors
cereals		Barberry
		See pear, except for the 4th last. + Manchurian walnut
	Corn, beans, beans, lettuce, onion, celery	tomatoes	Separately - zucchini, pumpkins, squash (better not together)
Calendula	Apple tree, currant, roses, tulips, gladioli. Strawberries, onions, peas, tomatoes
		Inhibits the growth of other plants	Oak, linden, rowan
	Celery, cucumbers, beets, mustard, spinach, dill, lettuce, onions, potatoes, nasturtium(with all cabbages), calendula, tobacco	Strawberries, tomatoes, beans
Brussels sprouts	Chinese cabbage
Chinese cabbage	Brussels sprouts, cauliflower
leafy cabbage	With many. Dill, celery, onion	Tomatoes, beans, strawberries
Cauliflower	Celery, Chinese cabbage, beans, parsley, sage	Tomatoes. strawberry

Potato	Watermelon, broccoli, cabbage, corn, peas, beans, beans, horseradish, eggplant, onion, nasturtium, carrot, lettuce, dill, coriander	Pumpkin, tomatoes, cucumbers, sunflower, raspberry, cherry, apple tree	Good: cereals as predecessors; peas, calendula
horse chestnut		Inhibits the growth of other plants	Single landings
Norway maple, field, Tatar	Apple tree, pear. Oak companion. Linden	Spruce - suppresses Tatar	Against the backdrop of conifers
Kohlrabi	Cucumbers, onions, beets, salad, fragrant herbs	Strawberries, tomatoes
Watercress
Corn	Artichoke, peas, beans, melon, zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers, potatoes, barley, lupins, mustard		Restrains raspberry growth
	Spruce, raspberry
	The apple tree is old; oak, coniferous, maple		Oak, rowan, maple, ash, skumpia
	Cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli, potatoes, beets, carrot, tomatoes, eggplant, lettuce, chicory, leek, garlic, strawberries, calendula, savory, tobacco	Peas, beans. Aggressive to legumes and cabbage	Suppresses fungal diseases
Leek	Celery, onions, carrots, tomatoes
	Spruce, apple tree, pine, mountain ash, hazel		The growth is well restrained by corn
Chard		Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans
	Peas.Leek, onion, lettuce, parsley, radish, beans, tomatoes, marjoram, sage	Beets, celery, horseradish
Nasturtium	Vegetables, potatoes, phlox, cabbage, tomatoes, turnips
	Nasturtium, delphinium
	Peas, corn, beans, radish, tomatoes, cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, Dill	Potatoes, fragrant herbs	Kotovnik and lemon balm - attract bees
Manchurian walnut		Inhibits apple, pear, yew, irga, mountain ash
	old apple tree
	Lettuce, onion (feather), tomato, eggplant	Beans, peas, cucumbers, fennel, celery
Parsnip
Parsley	(Carrots), Asparagus, Tomatoes, Peas, Beans, Beans, Onions, Lettuce	Carrots, beets, celery, horseradish	Protects everyone from pests
		Inhibits the growth of other plants	Larch, pine, birch, spruce
	Everyone is oppressed
	Single plant (except for perennial onions, horseradish)	Gooseberry	Good - fruit berry plantings
	Spinach, dill, watercress, beets, carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini and pumpkin, fragrant herbs	Peas, beans, strawberries	Before zucchini, zucchini and other late
	zucchini, cucumbers, beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, pumpkin, melon, tomatoes, lettuce	Peas, beans, strawberries, cabbage
	Spinach, dill, lettuce, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, beets, pumpkin, tomatoes	Beans, peas, horseradish, celery
	Garlic, calendula	Apple tree, pear
	Spruce, cherry, pine, raspberry
	strawberries, cabbage, kohlrabi, carrots, beets, radishes, onions, cucumbers	Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans	Activates the roots of other plants - helpers
Salad chicory (witloof)	Strawberries, cucumbers, carrots, radish, cabbage	Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans
	onion, radish, lettuce, kohlrabi, broccoli, most cabbage	Mustard, beans	Chorus. predecessors: legumes, winter cereals, perennial grasses, corn
Celery	broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, leek, radish, carrot, beetroot	Tomatoes, peas, beans
		Suppresses the growth of other plants, "suffers" from spruce	Od., gr. landing, live. izg.
Scorzonera (black root)	Onions, cabbage, radish, carrots, beets	Tomatoes, beans, horseradish, peas
		Apple tree, pear	Do not plant next to sea buckthorn
Currant	Garlic, calendula, geranium, Jerusalem artichoke, homemade hops	Cherry (with blackcurrant), lily, tulip (bulbous)
	Apple tree, raspberry, mountain ash, larch, fir, spruce, hazel, oak, cedar, linden	Suffering from birch; aspen	Spruce, larch,
	Parsley, basil, tomatoes
		Walnut, Manchurian and black walnut, barberry, white locust, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine)	Deciduous species, od. and small gr. landings
	Onion, leek, carrot, radish, celery, parsley, asparagus, cabbage(?), herbs, garlic, calendula, levkoy, apple tree, eggplant, peppers, basil	Kohlrabi, tall vegetables, beans, peas, cucumbers	Help berry bushes
Poplar black	Pear, apple tree		Closer to the pond
	Peas, mustard
	Corn, beans, radish, onion, lettuce	Potato, cabbage
	Garlic, calendula
	Turnip, radish, cabbage, apple tree
	eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, corn, beets, carrots, cauliflower, peas, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon, strawberry, savory, gladiolus	Onion, garlic, broccoli, fennel	Protects everyone from pests
	Everyone is oppressed
	Tomatoes, lettuce, onion (feather), pepper	Beans, peas, cucumbers, fragrant herbs
	Nasturtium
	Potatoes, fragrant herbs	Tomatoes, beans
	Onion
	Beans, onions
	Rowan Nevezhinskaya, apple tree	White acacia, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), apple tree, pear, black currant
	Roses, tulips, gladioli, currants, strawberries, onions, peas (?), tomatoes	Peas (?), beans	Aggressive to legumes and cabbage. Suppresses fungal diseases
Mock orange (jasmine)		Inhibits the growth of other plants
	Broccoli, carrots
Rose hip		Spruce. Inhibits the growth of other plants	All bushes in one place
	Strawberries, turnips, radishes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, carrots	Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans	Activates the roots of other plants
	Strawberries, carrots, radish, cabbage	Tomatoes, peas, beans, sage and other fragrant
	Linden and grapes as predecessors. Under the old apple trees - oak, linden, birch, hazel, cherry plum and other conifers, Pine, black poplar, maple, raspberries, dill, tomatoes, hemp, tansy, calendula. The smell of mullein infusion or "green manure", sweet cherry	Potato, couch grass, walnut, Manchurian and black walnut, white locust, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry, stone fruits
Common ash (high)		Suppresses the growth of woody and shrubby plants, oak - "so-so"

Vika + oats + ryegrass - good; linen + clover

"Bird cherry, oak, maple clung to each other"

From the article: “In the taiga, there is often a neighborhood of cedar, mountain ash, raspberry, hazel, fir, Siberian spruce, Siberian and Dahurian larch.”

Plants that overwhelm the rest are monoplants: “white locust, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, jasmine, barberry. Around the poplar - 6 meters zone of suppression of others.

On the contrary, they do not like their own kind: apple trees, pears, cherries, cherry plums. The fruits of the apple tree and pear give off etymes that accelerate the ripening of the fruits of other plants.

Note

This table was compiled taking into account the analysis of several sources on the mutual influence of cultures. That is, the principle was in effect: those data on compatibility that turned out to be the same, common to several authors, were entered in the table. Data that differed or were inconsistent were not included in the table. So, the whole table is, as it were, a conclusion or summary of several sources on this topic.

Proper placement of plants in the beds affects their yield more than it seems. The fact that some crops grow better if they are planted together, while others, on the contrary, interfere with each other, was also noticed by the Indians who plant pumpkins, beans and corn together. Now many gardeners and summer residents know about the successful and unsuccessful neighborhood of vegetables in the beds. The table of "friends" and "enemies" of each vegetable has been studied in detail and is available to everyone.

Good neighbors in the garden

Joint planting of vegetables not only makes full use of the available land, but also positively affects the growth and yield of both plants. As a nice addition, such beds will look very nice from the outside. Smart garden planning and the interaction of plants in it combines many nuances that have been studied by both scientists and farmers in their own experience.

It is known that many plants emit chemical compounds that can both promote the growth of neighbors and suppress it. In addition, they can provide each other with protection from the heat, providing shade, enriching the soil, inhibiting the growth of weeds that are dangerous to another species, or repelling pests. Each culture has its own list of useful and harmful companions in the garden.

Benefits of co-planting

Rules for joint planting of cultivated plants designed primarily to increase productivity. Observing them, a person receives the following benefits:

Different neighbors are good for each plant, so you need to carefully consider the layout of the garden before you start mixed planting vegetables in the beds. An example of a successful neighborhood: cucumber and corn, when cereals protect the vegetable from the scorching sun and at the same time serve as a support for it. Corn is also good in the vicinity of tomatoes, but it is better not to plant tomatoes with cucumbers themselves - they require completely different amounts of moisture and fresh air for optimal growth.

Vegetables can be planted not only next to other edible plants, but also with fragrant herbs or even flowers.

For example, basil improves the taste of tomatoes, while mint improves the taste of white cabbage. Almost all crops can be planted next to garlic and onions, because these odorous plants produce a large amount of phytoncides that work well on many vegetables.

All plants need pollinators, which can be attracted by planting flowers next to vegetables - they will not only benefit, but also serve as a garden decoration. In addition to them, herbs such as mint, lemon balm and marjoram will help attract pollinating insects. Earthworms also have a good effect on most crops - they loosen the earth, increasing the amount of oxygen available to plants. They like herbs such as chicory, valerian and green onions.

Universal neighbors that are useful for almost any vegetable are legumes. Nodule bacteria live on their roots, processing nitrogen from the air, which the beans can supply to closely growing plants. The most nitrogen-rich soil remains after the end of their growth, therefore legumes also serve as a good predecessor for crops demanding this parameter, for example, pumpkin or cabbage.

Another plant that is friendly with so many vegetables is spinach. It releases special substances that help plants better absorb the beneficial elements from the garden. In addition, spinach leaves quickly grow and cover the ground, protecting it from drying out and preventing weeds from developing, while neighboring vegetables are still small and occupy the entire garden.

All cultures prefer different friends - there are many factors to consider in order to understand what to plant with what in the garden. The compatibility table of the most popular vegetables looks like this:

Pest protectors

Many plants repel or lure insects or animals that feed on vegetable crops. They can be combined in plantings with vulnerable plants or planted between rows for preventive purposes. If you do it right, you can significantly reduce the use of chemicals in the garden or completely eliminate them. Different crops will help protect the garden from such pests:

Warring vegetables

In addition to friend plants that strengthen and support each other in the garden, there are neighbors that are very bad for some species, which inhibit their growth and have a bad effect on the crop. The consequences of joint planting of such "enemies" are often the attraction of pests, diseases, waterlogging, due to which fungi develop, or even the complete cessation of growth of one of the crops. Enemies of the most common garden plants:

Rules for successful combination

In order to get a rich harvest, it is not enough just to plant suitable crops nearby and protect their enemy plants - many more factors must be taken into account. It is best to combine species that are favorable to each other both horizontally and vertically, and also plant them at the right time so that vegetables that grow too early do not ruin their neighbors.

Plants in a joint bed should first of all be combined according to preferences for temperature and amount of water. It is also worth considering the structure of their root system - you need to plant vegetables with different root depths nearby so that they do not intersect and there is no competition.

Another important parameter is the amount of nutrients the plant needs. The culture most in need of them is planted in the center of the planting, and the less demanding crops are planted on the sides. You can never plant crops with the same height and width of leaves on one bed - one of them will definitely destroy a neighbor.

For the proper cultivation of vegetables, you also need to know after which crops they can be planted.

Onions, for example, prefer cucumbers, legumes and early varieties of potatoes as predecessors, but do not like it when celery, radish or carrots grew in front of it in the garden. Both in small and large crop rotations, you should not use plants of the same family twice in a row: this is especially true for beets, chard and spinach.

In a greenhouse, vegetables grow faster - this is also worth considering if you want to create joint plantings there. Before starting work, you need to carefully consider the layout of the beds - take into account the cardinal points (some crops, such as cucumbers and tomatoes, are grown on the southern sunny side of greenhouses), find those plants that are suitable for the same humidity and temperature, and make sure that none of them did not interfere with others.

Joint planting of vegetables is a very effective and useful way, which will help to grow a good crop even under adverse conditions or in a small area. Using the various tables, you can easily create your own combinations of suitable plants and enjoy delicious and juicy vegetables from the garden every year.

Compatibility of vegetables in the beds

Many gardeners approach the cultivation of vegetables, herbs and fruits with great responsibility. They observe all agricultural practices, use all modern preparations and fertilizers for the best results, constantly fight weeds and pests. But sometimes, despite the maximum amount of effort, the harvest is not encouraging. Why is it so? There is also such a thing as the compatibility of vegetables. This is a very important factor that must be taken into account.

The Importance of Vegetable Compatibility

Conclusion

Growing plants in your backyard is not that difficult. But what the harvest will be depends on many factors, including the proximity of crops to each other. The compatibility of vegetables in the garden, the table of which should always be at hand for any gardener, will help to achieve excellent results. Together with the timely implementation of all necessary agrotechnical measures, the correct location of plants will allow you to get higher yields. Plant, grow and enjoy the fruits of your labors!

Let's think together why we need mixed landings? This is when different crops do not grow in separate beds, but in adjacent rows or mixed.

In nature, there are no large areas occupied by one species. In the meadow there is always a mixture of herbs, in the forest - not only different species of trees, but also shrubs, herbs, mosses. Even in a field where only one crop is planted after plowing, weeds grow. We can also create a garden in which plants coexist.

Of course, there will be unwanted "aliens" here, but they will not cause much harm. This is because a rich, diverse ecosystem will be in balance! How to do it? The answer is simple - apply the method of mixed landings. To do this, you need to know which plants are good neighbors, and plan the area in such a way as to ensure that different crops are as close as possible. They should not grow in large arrays, but in adjacent rows or holes.

Border is better

It has long been noticed that plants grow better on the border of various ecosystems: on the edge of a forest, on the shore of a reservoir, on the edge of a field. To recreate the border effect, I use a spiral bed. On it, the border is twisted into a spiral and there is a place for many microclimatic areas: the higher - the drier and warmer, there are shady and sunny sides. I usually plant spicy-aromatic plants on a spiral bed. Here is a variant of the sequence of plants: sorrel, valerian, onions, peppermint, clary sage, oak sage, garden thyme, oregano, garden strawberry, medicinal sage, cumin, rosemary.

You can simply alternate the rows, referring to the crop compatibility table. However, it must be remembered that the influence of plants on each other depends on the conditions in which they grow. Sometimes in large numbers they oppress neighbors, and in moderate numbers they are helpers. In general, it will take creativity and your observations.

Culture Compatibility

First of all, choose the main crop (for example, tomatoes). Then pick a neighbor who has a positive effect on the main plant. In our case, it can be lettuce or spinach - they will give a harvest before the tomatoes begin to bear fruit. Tall tomato plants will protect greens from direct sunlight and create a more favorable microclimate for them. Lettuce after harvesting can be sown again. It is worth planting nearby aromatic herbs that repel pests. You just need to make sure that they do not drown out the main culture.

Consider the timing of the ripening of the crop. If you remove one crop earlier, you should find a replacement plant for it. You can't leave the ground bare. It is mulched, green manure is planted.

When choosing crops, attention should be paid to reducing competition between them. Plants with a deep root system will get along better with those with shallow roots; species with low nutritional requirements will not interfere with those who need a lot of nutrients; tall spreading crops will protect those who love light partial shade from the sun.

Only the water needs of the neighbors should be similar.

Plants with a deep root system:
Eggplant, legumes (except peas), cabbage, leek, carrots, parsnips, peppers, radishes, beets, celery root, tomatoes, pumpkin.

Plants with a shallow root system:
Lettuce, peas, potatoes, kohlrabi, watercress, corn, onions, cucumbers, parsley, leaf celery, radish, melon, spinach.

Mixed plantings perform several functions: protecting plants from diseases and pests, increasing the yield per unit area, protecting the soil from one-sided depletion, and reducing the number of weeds. Fruits and vegetables growing in community with other species are tastier: mint improves the taste of potatoes, parsley improves the taste of tomatoes.

If you choose the right plants, they will help each other and delight the owner. This is the most efficient use of your piece of land.

I have been using compaction of crops and joint plantings in my garden for a long time. I sow carrots through a row with onions, plant beds with cabbage with savory, potatoes with beans. And nursery plants such as calendula, marigolds and nasturtium grow throughout the garden.

Cauliflower in marigolds.

"Kommunalka" for celery

I decided to compact the plantings of Brussels sprouts, broccoli and early cabbage by planting root celery in the aisles. These cultures go well together. Cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, which drives away white butterflies from cabbage.

At first everything went like clockwork: both cabbage and celery developed perfectly. But in the second half of the summer, where Brussels sprouts and celery grew, I saw that the first one was noticeably ahead of its neighbor in growth. Soon the upper leaves of the cabbage closed, and my celery was in the lower tier, in deep shade.

I looked after this "communal" garden bed especially carefully. The cabbage was good, but the celery was "sad" day by day.

I realized that I made a mistake - it was impossible to plant late-ripening crops nearby. And if you decided to do this, then it was necessary to leave such a distance between them that everyone would have enough space and light. My celery obviously didn't get it. He never formed powerful rhizomes, he had to be content with only greens.

Another thing is celery, planted along with early cabbage! Already in July, all heads of cabbage were cut, and celery remained in the garden as a full-fledged owner. The conclusion suggests itself as follows: any plants first of all need to create optimal conditions for development, namely: adequate nutrition, watering, lighting. And then the cultures planted nearby can remain friends for a long time.

Who is friends with whom?

Everyone knows that onions and carrots are best friends in the garden. One culture repels pests of another and vice versa. After the shoots of carrots, I plant onion seedlings in the discovered gaps.

Sweet couple.

I fill the same gaps in beets with lettuce. A bed from under an early radish can be sown with green manure. But it is more economical to sow radishes immediately in the aisles of carrots. Carrots sprout slowly, seedlings remain low for a long time and cannot shade the fast-growing radishes in any way. Thus, I get a double crop from one bed. I sow seeds of early-ripening dill in peas: after a while, its antennae will catch on the stems of dill.

I sow beans along the perimeter of the plot with potatoes. At first, it is a little oppressed in growth, but after digging up the potatoes it develops beautifully and has time to ripen. I add onions to tomatoes - I plant sevok between bushes, but only on greens. After all, tomatoes grow rapidly and strongly obscure the neighbor.

Otherwise, someone will definitely start to harass the neighbor. In general, everything is like with people. How can one not recall the old saying: “Friendship is friendship, but tobacco is apart!”

Vegetable beds or why do plants need satellites?

Gardeners have long noticed that plants growing nearby affect each other. They release various substances into the environment that their neighbors “like” or “dislike”. For example, early cabbage and tomatoes, late cabbage and early potatoes, tomatoes and celery, beans and potatoes feel good next to each other.

Potatoes and cabbage.

Heal the soil and help all crops leafy mustard, marigolds, calendula, basil. I plant them along the edge of the beds, at the entrance to the greenhouses.

There is another big plus in mixed plantings. This is the flight of our imagination. Let's get rid of the stereotype that cabbage should sit in even rows! I plant plants arbitrarily (at the corners of a triangle, the contour of a circle), around - nasturtium with marigolds. And the garden looks festive. And the smell of flowers repels butterflies.

Eggplants and marigolds.

I “hook” several phacelia flowers to cucumbers - and they attract the smell of pollinating insects. So just the site turns into a piece of paradise - a place where you rest your soul.

I place satellite plants in row-spacings or nests among the main crop. Such mixed plantings create a favorable background, increase disease resistance and even affect the taste of the fruit. With mixed plantings, soil fatigue does not occur, the number of pests is significantly reduced, since the smell of their “food” is interrupted by the smell of other plants. In addition, in such beds an ideal refuge is created for predatory insects that feed on garden pests.

Roman onion with melon

I have my own, proven over the years, method of growing several crops in one bed. For example, onions with melons and watermelons. The harvest is excellent! On a garden bed (2-2.2 m wide), usually in April - early May (on the waning moon), I plant turnip seedlings along the edge in two rows with a distance of 40-50 cm between them. I place the next two-row from the first at a distance of 90- 100 cm.

At home, I sow the seeds of watermelons and melons for seedlings. Then I carefully transplant the seedlings into open ground, in the center of the beds with onions, at a distance of 70-90 cm from each other. To prevent stress and disease, I treat onions and melons with a microbiological preparation and infusion of wood ash (200 g per 10 liters of water). I water with a drip irrigation system. In the middle of summer I harvest ripe bulbs. After the appearance of the ovary on the lashes of watermelons and melons, I leave only 2-3 fruits per bush. They will grow large and tasty. Using the same technology, I add melons to winter garlic.

Text: garden portalhttp://agraruu.net/