Compatible plants in the garden. Mixed plantings: what can be planted on the same bed

Plants are like people, and can relate to each other in different ways. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to the compatibility of vegetables in the garden, then they will live well and delight their owner.

Potatoes are good with such neighbors as: peas, beans, cabbage, but do not want to endure tomatoes, beets, cucumbers, sunflowers and pumpkins.

Tomatoes welcome the neighborhood with onions, radishes, salads and green crops, but it does not treat peas, cucumbers, potatoes, fennel and dill.

If you sow carrots next to cucumbers, cabbage, radishes, lettuces, tomatoes, beets and onions, then she will not mind at all.

Onion considers lettuce, beets, tomatoes, cucumbers and especially carrots to be his friends, but does not like beans, radishes, cabbage. Not far behind onions and garlic, he has the same preferences.

Cabbage has a good relationship with all crops, with the exception of tomatoes and beans.

Beetroot expresses sympathy for salads, cucumbers, carrots, onions, and does not like beans and potatoes at all.

All plants are good for radishes, but not onions.

Mixed plantings:

Beans and beans welcome the neighborhood with radishes, parsley, tomatoes and rhubarb, potatoes, cucumbers, lettuces and cabbage. And they don’t find a common language with onions, garlic and peas at all.

Peacefully coexists with pea plants, which are friends with beans and do not tolerate the same plants, like beans. Peas also do not tolerate beans, but they have a special love for radishes and carrots.

Celery and parsley are friends with those crops that lettuce, rhubarb and cucumbers, but do not like tomatoes and radishes.

Only spinach is friends with all crops, because the sponin secreted by its roots has a positive effect on the development and growth of all crops in the garden. Still, his favorites are potatoes, beets, beans and tomatoes.

Useful neighborhood of plants

There is evidence that alternating kale and tomato prevents caterpillars, cruciferous fleas and aphids from eating cabbage. And if the neighbor of cabbage is celery, then cruciferous fleas will not bother her much

Carrots and onions sown side by side drive pests away from each other - carrot and onion flies. Onions planted next to tomatoes in a greenhouse will ward off tomato diseases.

And how the pea codling moth loves to spoil peas! So that the crop is not destroyed, you need to sow white mustard with peas, which will also increase the yield.

What to plant with what:

Many insects do not like the smell of dill, and the radish will partially save you from many diseases. So, sow it in the aisles. It is a pity that today it is impossible to sow hemp, and yet it protected potatoes from late blight.

The neighborhood of plants is a very interesting topic. So modest, medicinal marigolds have long been known to everyone, and yet they protect plants in gardens from root rot and mites. There are no nematodes, where marigolds grow. This is a great neighbor for garden strawberries. They do not like nematodes and marigolds (Chernobrivtsy), which should be sown along the perimeter of the beds with strawberries and potatoes.

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When planning beds in the garden, it is important to consider the compatibility of vegetable crops. Gardeners have often had to deal with the problem of low yields in the absence of any prerequisites for this. And the reason can be banal - an uncomfortable neighborhood, so you need to know what you can plant with and what not.

This article reveals all the secrets of arranging a garden, because the growth and development of both crops, and, most importantly, their fruiting, depend on which plant is planted in the immediate vicinity.

When disembarking, taking into account compatibility, it is quite realistic increase yield by 15-20%. Particular attention should be paid to the selection of a neighbor when placing several types of vegetables on the same bed or in a greenhouse.

Approximately the same growing conditions facilitate the care of shoots:

• lighting intensity;
• watering mode;
• soil preparation for planting;
• introduction of supplements.

If planted bad neighbors- this is fraught with the following consequences:

• attracting insects that create many problems for young shoots;
• fungal infection as a result of waterlogging;
• the negative impact of waste products, as a result of which the neighbor develops poorly or stops growing.

Experienced gardeners use invaluable knowledge in practice, annually observing the interaction of a number of planted plants.

To facilitate planning, they draw up a plan for the garden, breaking it into beds for vegetables and berry crops before planting. Thus, the rules of crop rotation and the laws of compatibility in the open field are taken into account.

What can be planted next to potatoes

One of the most popular vegetables on the list basic products for winter preparations. Before landing, predecessors are taken into account.

The best are:

• carrot;
• green manure;
• cucumber;
• legumes;
• pepper;
• cabbage;
• beet.

Not worth it use the same area annually, to get a good harvest with such a layout does not work. Also, low fruiting rates of potatoes are noted if it is placed on a former tomato garden.

With regard to neighbors, the plant shows more tolerance than mutually beneficial consolidation. The best compatibility is noted only with beans.

A little does not like to be friends with a vegetable with cucumbers, onion sets, tomatoes and cabbage. And certainly you should not place potatoes nearby: peas, beets and celery. With other plants, the root crop gets along normally.

Neighbors for tomatoes

A favorable place for the growth of tomatoes are considered areas on which the following crops were previously grown:

• cauliflower;
• turnip;
• cucumber;
• greenery;
• carrot;
• beet.

Among the worst predecessors: potatoes, peas and zucchini. According to the rules of crop rotation, vegetables are planted in the same place after 3-4 years, so you should not use the former tomato bed for tomato seedlings.

• beans;
• radish;
• corn;
• radish;
• cabbage;
• pepper;
• onions and other green vegetables.

There is no negative effect on tomatoes from neighboring beds with parsnips, strawberries, kohlrabi, lettuce, spinach.

Planting peppers with other vegetables

When planting pepper, it is worth considering the belonging of its varietal feature. Sweet, Bulgarian and bitter varieties are placed separately from each other to avoid cross-pollination. Of the predecessors are more suitable:

• legumes;
• cabbage (early varieties);
• greenery;
• cucumbers;
• wheat (winter);
• perennial herbs.

Not worth it choose sites after potatoes, eggplant, tomatoes and physalis. When growing other plants on the planned bed, there are no strict restrictions on pepper.

Arrange a bed with pepper can close to the following crops:

• carrots;
• basil
• bow;
• coriander.

If marigolds, oregano, nasturtium are planted for decorative purposes or prophylactic against pests, then the pepper will simply smell fragrant from such companions. And from the neighborhood with fennel, beans and kohlrabi should be abandoned.

cucumbers

The soil environment is more suitable for growing greens after cabbage and tomatoes. And predecessors from the pumpkin family are the most undesirable.

It has a positive effect on the yield of cucumbers Dill, so it is taken not only as a companion, but also sown mixed.

Favorable influence on the development of crunches is exerted by: onions, beans, peas, garlic, spinach. Calendula, placed in the aisle, will create a reliable protection against insects that feed on young cucumber foliage.

From the neighborhood with potatoes, radishes and tomatoes, it is recommended refuse, plants negatively affect each other.

Cabbage

Cabbage planting planned after peas, beans, cucumbers. Do not spoil the soil environment: peppers, carrots and herbs. And fodder beets and other representatives of cruciferous crops are considered poor predecessors.

Neighborhood with cabbage is easy to pick up, for a close environment fit many plants:

• beet;
• beans;
• sage;
• celery;
• Dill;
• salad.

It is allowed to plant flowers and herbs: oregano, chamomile, nasturtium, mint, etc. Won't fit in the role of companions strawberries and tomatoes.

Good neighbors for carrots in the garden

When choosing a place for sowing carrots, the following predecessors are preferred:

• cucumbers;
• tomatoes;
• potato;
• cabbage;
• leek;
• greenery;
• legumes.

Experienced gardeners notice that after zucchini, celery, parsnips and parsley, it turns out bad harvest carrots, the root crop develops poorly, as if it lacks nutrients (although top dressing is introduced on schedule).

Carrot beds should be planned in close proximity from these cultures:

• garlic;
• tomato;
• radish;
• peas.

In the aisle, you can plant sage, marigolds and scorzonera to repel pests.

Unfavorable Neighborhood celebrated with beets, beans and dill. Carrots get along with other plants without any problems.

vegetable marrow

Everyone's Favorite Zucchini bear fruit well on the soil after legumes and early varieties of cabbage. Do not spoil the structure of the soil and the environment: greens, onions, garlic.

And such predecessors as carrots, tomatoes and cabbage of late ripening are considered most unsuccessful.

Zucchini (squash) can be safely planted next to such plants:

• beans;
• corn;
• peas;
• beans.

Pumpkin

Disembarkation rules lots of pumpkins similar to zucchini, they share the same recommended predecessors. However, the neighborhood is a little extended, you can additionally add tomatoes, radishes and sunflowers.

The pumpkin culture does not tolerate only potatoes. Gets along well with other plants.

Beet

Beet sowing can do on the former beds:

• carrots;
• potatoes;
• cucumbers;
• Luke;
• greenery.

The root crop develops well after green manure. In addition, after such a change in layout, a decrease in the growth of weeds is noted.

Beets and onions are a good neighborhood

You can safely settle for beets: cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, onion. To scare away insects between the rows, you can plant catnip, mint, oregano.

• potato;
• corn;
• spinach;
• onion;
• carrot.

Growing in the garden with other neighbors does not cause much concern.

Next to what to plant strawberries in the open field

Strawberry culture does not show capriciousness to the soil environment, so there will be no difficulty in choosing a place for planting young shoots. Useful precursors for strawberries are:

• parsley;
• radish;
• garlic;
• legumes;
• corn;
• carrot;
• dill, etc.

It is worth refusing to use the plot for strawberries if there are previously grown:

• potato;
• tomatoes, peppers;
• eggplant;
• cabbage;
• raspberries

Arranging vegetable beds as neighbors for strawberries it is recommended to choose:

• spinach;
• salad;
• radish;
• cabbage;
• carrot.

With other plants, the sweet berry will also be comfortable, since there is no obvious rivalry between them.

What crops are suitable for neighborhood with eggplant

When choosing a place for planting eggplant, preference should be given to such predecessors: onions, cucumbers, early ripening cabbage, perennial herbs.

From former beds with potatoes, tomatoes, physalis and peppers it's better to refuse. It is also necessary to observe the rules of crop rotation, it is impossible to place and grow culture in the same place every year(an interval of at least 3 years is observed).

When planning an eggplant garden can pick up companions:

• peas;
• beans;
• basil;
• salad;
• tarragon;
• thyme.

The representative of the nightshade family gets along quite well with the rest of the neighbors. The blue ones have no special prohibitions on combining.

Peas and beans

The best predecessors for peas and beans, root vegetables, cabbage, and representatives of the pumpkin family are considered. The legumes themselves create the most favorable environment in the soil during growth, so after them you can grow almost everything.

Not worth it to organize a bed after sunflower, the quality and yield are significantly reduced due to the defeat of fungal infections and infestation with carrion.

When selecting companions, first of all, the neighborhood with each other (peas and beans) is excluded. This is caused by several factors at once:

• attracting pests;
• weaving stems together;
• the possibility of cross-pollination.

The most suitable for close proximity are:

• kohlrabi;
• carrot;
• salad;
• radish;
• celery;
• corn;
• cabbage;
• potato.

Landing with other cultures has no special restrictions.

Greenery

When choosing predecessors for greens (onions, dill, parsley, garlic, cilantro), preference should be given to legumes, vegetable roots.

Not recommended plant greens after umbrella crops, the relatedness of plants indicates their identical nutrient needs. Because of this, every year the yield will decrease significantly.

Close to green planting can be placed beds with cabbage, kohlrabi, cucumbers, strawberries, peppers and other green vegetables. Definitely not suitable for co-cultivation: carrots, parsnips, tomatoes. The neighborhood of greenery with early varieties of potatoes and representatives of legumes is allowed.

Seeding table

It is useful to supplement the diary of a gardener with a table of compatibility of crops grown on your site.

in red incompatibility of cultures is indicated, green- the most favorable neighborhood for development and fruiting. colorless window indicates the neutrality of the interaction between plants, which does not exclude their neighborhood in the garden.

There is absolutely no difficulty in planning the beds, if everything is thought out in advance. Autumn tillage should be carried out taking into account the agricultural practices of those vegetables and berries that will be grown on it in the next season.

The harvest in the country depends not only on the care of the owners of six acres. My big mistake was planting a number of incompatible crops. I searched for the reasons for the poor development of plants in lighting and top dressing, until I found out that the proximity of vegetables in the beds is of great importance.

This topic is related to crop rotation. I studied: in what order to plant vegetables and flowers, as well as how to properly arrange them in the garden. Some of the information was a revelation to me.

For example, the fight against bindweed will end in victory if you plant velvet. The weed does not tolerate and dies from aromatic substances released into the air.

1. The main advantage of competent planting of vegetable crops is protection from insects. Plants emit volatile aromatic compounds invisible to humans into the air. For harmful insects, such a smell becomes a deterrent. When planning plantings in the spring, I take into account this feature of plants. As a result, there are fewer pests on six acres, and it is also not necessary to buy and apply insecticides.
2. Siderates or plants that enrich the soil with nitrogen are good neighbors in the garden for almost any vegetable. The phacelia also drives away the weevil, and the beans slightly shade the plantings from the scorching sun.

Plant incompatibility

This rule also applies to pests. Five years ago, at home, pepper seedlings became infected with aphids. The plants were transferred to the dacha and treated with the drug, they were immediately planted in a separate greenhouse, away from the potatoes. If they didn’t, then the aphids would infect all representatives of the Solanaceae

I take into account the compatibility of vegetables, their ability to absorb substances from the soil.

Sometimes the neighborhood greatly depletes the land, which affects the yield of tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, and onions.

Neighborhood rules in the garden

I always pay special attention to vegetables that are easily affected by diseases and pests. For them, the presence of a good neighbor is the key to full development and productivity. To help, a table that will help determine the choice of crops in the garden beds.

Before recommendations for each type of vegetable, I advise you to get acquainted with the video, which tells about the compaction of plantings and gives advice on crops, what to plant with what in the garden: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEeDNTSy1_g

Cabbage

Good neighbors of cabbage are green leafy crops. I plant peppermint along the edges of the bed, which repels the voracious caterpillar and aphids. In addition, the aromatic plant improves the taste of the cabbage.

eggplant

The southern vegetable is attacked by the Colorado potato beetle. Bush beans will scare away the pest. Another defender of the blue ones is thyme. The plant exudes a light aroma during the formation of flowers and after flowering.

beans

To grow cucumbers, I plant beans nearby. They also help develop corn, potatoes, radishes. These plants especially need nitrogen, which is secreted by the root system of a legume.

To protect the beans from harmful insects, I plant basil nearby. The spicy plant does not allow the bean weevil. If there is no basil, then it can be replaced with other aromatic herbs: lavender, oregano, velvet, nasturtium.

I take into account the incompatibility of beans with vegetables. Onions and its varieties: leeks, chives have a negative effect. And also garlic does not tolerate the presence of beans nearby.

Grape

Note! Do not grow onions and cabbages near grapes.

Peas

Another supplier of nitrogen to vegetables is peas. Considering that the creepers of the plant will give shade, I place them on the north side, and on the south there are plantings of turnips, carrots, cucumbers. Other good neighbors of peas are radish, radish, leafy crops such as head lettuce.

Plants that produce phytoncides will inhibit the development of peas: onions and garlic, as well as tomatoes with a specific aroma. I make sure that there is no wormwood nearby.

Cabbage

Ordinary beans and celery are “friends” with cabbage, which releases aromatic substances that repel the earthen flea. Dill has similar properties, the smell of which cabbage and aphids are afraid of. Cucumber grass will help against the invasion of snails.

Planting two rows of cabbage in the garden, alternating them with planting herbs. In addition to dill and celery, which repel insects, thyme, oregano, rosemary, hyssop, and various types of sage have a similar property.

Important! The unfortunate neighbor of cabbage is parsley. Keep this in mind when planning your landings.

Potato

Usually I plant 2-3 acres of potatoes in my garden. They help the bushes grow and grow stronger, and then the tubers are special plants that enrich the soil with nitrogen. These include beans, beans and phacelia. Bush beans will protect the second bread from the Colorado potato beetle.

When planting green manure on potatoes, one should not overdo it so that the neighbors rarely grow, but aptly. For 2-3 potato bushes, one bush of phacelia or beans is needed.

Strawberry

Traditionally, garlic and parsley grow in the middle of a bed with strawberries, which become the defenders of the bushes from pests, for example, from slugs.

Beetroot

Summer residents should know what to plant beets in the garden with. Practice shows the perfect combination of beets with potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans and spinach. The root crop is also favorable to the presence of a number of other crops. Moreover, there is a hypothesis about the release of antibiotics into the ground by beets, and they heal carrots.

Corn

Demanding soil fertility, corn will be happy to be next to beans. The work of the green manure root system to release nitrogen into the ground will be appreciated. Cucumber will give a harvest if you plant it around the corn stalks that rise up. Yes, and the cobs are formed larger than before. The enemies of corn are celery and beetroot.

Onions and carrots

I do not experiment and follow the classic rule of vegetable farming - I plant carrots next to onions. Both release aromatic volatile compounds into the air, which are not to the liking of onion and carrot flies.

cucumbers

Next to the greenhouse where cucumbers grow, I plant various types of beans. Good neighbors are cabbage, garlic, radish, celery, spinach, fennel.

Pepper

Pepper grows in a separate greenhouse, and 2-3 bushes of basil will contribute to better fruit set.

tomatoes

Greenhouse tomatoes favorably perceive the presence of carrots nearby. I plant it along the wall of the structure. For 6 tomato bushes, one root crop is needed so that the tops do not shade the plants. During the garden season, tomatoes will bring a good harvest, and carrots will amaze with the size of the root crop.

Zucchini

The best neighbors of zucchini: onions, garlic, legumes. In no case do I plant next to representatives of the Pumpkin family: squash and pumpkin, as well as cucumbers.

When compiling an annual plan for the garden and planting on it, I follow the rules for the neighborhood of cultures. In the spring, the scheme becomes a useful tool and saves a lot of time when choosing a place for vegetables.

Let's think together why we need mixed landings? This is when different crops do not grow in separate beds, but in adjacent rows or mixed.

In nature, there are no large areas occupied by one species. In the meadow there is always a mixture of herbs, in the forest - not only different species of trees, but also shrubs, herbs, mosses. Even in a field where only one crop is planted after plowing, weeds grow. We can also create a garden in which plants coexist.

Of course, there will be unwanted "aliens" here, but they will not cause much harm. This is because a rich, diverse ecosystem will be in balance! How to do it? The answer is simple - apply the method of mixed landings. To do this, you need to know which plants are good neighbors, and plan the area in such a way as to ensure that different crops are as close as possible. They should not grow in large arrays, but in adjacent rows or holes.

Border is better

It has long been noticed that plants grow better on the border of various ecosystems: on the edge of a forest, on the shore of a reservoir, on the edge of a field. To recreate the border effect, I use a spiral bed. On it, the border is twisted into a spiral and there is a place for many microclimatic areas: the higher - the drier and warmer, there are shady and sunny sides. I usually plant spicy-aromatic plants on a spiral bed. Here is a variant of the sequence of plants: sorrel, valerian, onions, peppermint, clary sage, oak sage, garden thyme, oregano, garden strawberry, medicinal sage, cumin, rosemary.

You can simply alternate the rows, referring to the crop compatibility table. However, it must be remembered that the influence of plants on each other depends on the conditions in which they grow. Sometimes in large numbers they oppress neighbors, and in moderate numbers they are helpers. In general, it will take creativity and your observations.

Culture Compatibility

First of all, choose the main crop (for example, tomatoes). Then pick a neighbor who has a positive effect on the main plant. In our case, it can be lettuce or spinach - they will give a harvest before the tomatoes begin to bear fruit. Tall tomato plants will protect greens from direct sunlight and create a more favorable microclimate for them. Lettuce after harvesting can be sown again. It is worth planting nearby aromatic herbs that repel pests. You just need to make sure that they do not drown out the main culture.

Consider the timing of the ripening of the crop. If you remove one crop earlier, you should find a replacement plant for it. You can't leave the ground bare. It is mulched, green manure is planted.

When choosing crops, attention should be paid to reducing competition between them. Plants with a deep root system will get along better with those with shallow roots; species with low nutritional requirements will not interfere with those who need a lot of nutrients; tall spreading crops will protect those who love light partial shade from the sun.

Only the water needs of the neighbors should be similar.

Plants with a deep root system:
Eggplant, legumes (except peas), cabbage, leek, carrots, parsnips, peppers, radishes, beets, celery root, tomatoes, pumpkin.

Plants with a shallow root system:
Lettuce, peas, potatoes, kohlrabi, watercress, corn, onions, cucumbers, parsley, leaf celery, radish, melon, spinach.

Mixed plantings perform several functions: protecting plants from diseases and pests, increasing the yield per unit area, protecting the soil from one-sided depletion, and reducing the number of weeds. Fruits and vegetables growing in community with other species are tastier: mint improves the taste of potatoes, parsley improves the taste of tomatoes.

If you choose the right plants, they will help each other and delight the owner. This is the most efficient use of your piece of land.

I have been using compaction of crops and joint plantings in my garden for a long time. I sow carrots through a row with onions, plant beds with cabbage with savory, potatoes with beans. And nursery plants such as calendula, marigolds and nasturtium grow throughout the garden.

Cauliflower in marigolds.

"Kommunalka" for celery

I decided to compact the plantings of Brussels sprouts, broccoli and early cabbage by planting root celery in the aisles. These cultures go well together. Cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, which drives away white butterflies from cabbage.

At first everything went like clockwork: both cabbage and celery developed perfectly. But in the second half of the summer, where Brussels sprouts and celery grew, I saw that the first one was noticeably ahead of its neighbor in growth. Soon the upper leaves of the cabbage closed, and my celery was in the lower tier, in deep shade.

I looked after this "communal" garden bed especially carefully. The cabbage was good, but the celery was "sad" day by day.

I realized that I made a mistake - it was impossible to plant late-ripening crops nearby. And if you decided to do this, then it was necessary to leave such a distance between them that everyone would have enough space and light. My celery obviously didn't get it. He never formed powerful rhizomes, he had to be content with only greens.

Another thing is celery, planted along with early cabbage! Already in July, all heads of cabbage were cut, and celery remained in the garden as a full-fledged owner. The conclusion suggests itself as follows: any plants first of all need to create optimal conditions for development, namely: adequate nutrition, watering, lighting. And then the cultures planted nearby can remain friends for a long time.

Who is friends with whom?

Everyone knows that onions and carrots are best friends in the garden. One culture repels pests of another and vice versa. After the shoots of carrots, I plant onion seedlings in the discovered gaps.

Sweet couple.

I fill the same gaps in beets with lettuce. A bed from under an early radish can be sown with green manure. But it is more economical to sow radishes immediately in the aisles of carrots. Carrots sprout slowly, seedlings remain low for a long time and cannot shade the fast-growing radishes in any way. Thus, I get a double crop from one bed. I sow seeds of early-ripening dill in peas: after a while, its antennae will catch on the stems of dill.

I sow beans along the perimeter of the plot with potatoes. At first, it is a little oppressed in growth, but after digging up the potatoes it develops beautifully and has time to ripen. I add onions to tomatoes - I plant sevok between bushes, but only on greens. After all, tomatoes grow rapidly and strongly obscure the neighbor.

Otherwise, someone will definitely start to harass the neighbor. In general, everything is like with people. How can one not recall the old saying: “Friendship is friendship, but tobacco is apart!”

Vegetable beds or why do plants need satellites?

Gardeners have long noticed that plants growing nearby affect each other. They release various substances into the environment that their neighbors “like” or “dislike”. For example, early cabbage and tomatoes, late cabbage and early potatoes, tomatoes and celery, beans and potatoes feel good next to each other.

Potatoes and cabbage.

Heal the soil and help all crops leafy mustard, marigolds, calendula, basil. I plant them along the edge of the beds, at the entrance to the greenhouses.

There is another big plus in mixed plantings. This is the flight of our imagination. Let's get rid of the stereotype that cabbage should sit in even rows! I plant plants arbitrarily (at the corners of a triangle, the contour of a circle), around - nasturtium with marigolds. And the garden looks festive. And the smell of flowers repels butterflies.

Eggplants and marigolds.

I “hook” several phacelia flowers to cucumbers - and they attract the smell of pollinating insects. So just the site turns into a piece of paradise - a place where you rest your soul.

I place satellite plants in row-spacings or nests among the main crop. Such mixed plantings create a favorable background, increase disease resistance and even affect the taste of the fruit. With mixed plantings, soil fatigue does not occur, the number of pests is significantly reduced, since the smell of their “food” is interrupted by the smell of other plants. In addition, in such beds an ideal refuge is created for predatory insects that feed on garden pests.

Roman onion with melon

I have my own, proven over the years, method of growing several crops in one bed. For example, onions with melons and watermelons. The harvest is excellent! On a bed (2-2.2 m wide), usually in April - early May (on the waning moon), I plant turnip seedlings along the edge in two rows with a distance of 40-50 cm between them. I place the next two-row from the first at a distance of 90- 100 cm.

At home, I sow the seeds of watermelons and melons for seedlings. Then I carefully transplant the seedlings into open ground, in the center of the beds with onions, at a distance of 70-90 cm from each other. To prevent stress and disease, I treat onions and melons with a microbiological preparation and infusion of wood ash (200 g per 10 liters of water). I water with a drip irrigation system. In the middle of summer I harvest ripe bulbs. After the appearance of the ovary on the lashes of watermelons and melons, I leave only 2-3 fruits per bush. They will grow large and tasty. Using the same technology, I add melons to winter garlic.

Text: garden portalhttp://agraruu.net/

Plant compatibility table (allelopathy)

Compatibility of cultivated plants (allelopathy)

culture	Compatible	Incompatible	Design
White acacia			Against the background of dark conifers
Actinidia kolomikta	Currant	Apple tree, fruit and large trees	At home, along the supports
	old apple tree
	Potato	Tomatoes, horseradish, cabbage
	Corn, carrot, onion, parsley, celery	Tomatoes, beans, horseradish
	Asparagus, tomatoes
eggplant	Greens, onions, beans, potatoes, peppers	Beans, peas, cucumbers, aromatic herbs
Barberry		Suppresses the growth of other plants. cereals	Od. , gr. landing, live. izg.
Marigold	Strawberries, roses, tulips, gladioli
Paper birch, hanging	Old apple tree, cherry	"Burns" the pine	Rowan, willow, oak, linden, maple, beech, bird cherry on a background of coniferous
warty euonymus	Apple tree, fruit trees (attracts pests)
	Potatoes, pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, sunflower	Onion, garlic, celery, fennel
Brocolli	Celery, sage, beets, onions, potatoes, cucumbers	Tomatoes, beans, strawberries
	Lettuce, spinach, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkin, beets, tomatoes
Brussels sprouts	Celery, potatoes, beets, onions, cucumbers	Tomatoes, beans, strawberries
black elderberry	Protects currants, gooseberries, raspberries		Around the barn and in the garden
Grape		The smell of cabbage, laurel worsens the taste. Elm, hazel	Vertical gardening
		Apple, pear, apricot
Elm, mountain elm		Oppresses grapes, oak	Maple, linden
Gladiolus	Garlic, calendula
	Carrots, turnips, radishes, potatoes, cucumbers, beans, marigolds, calendula, fragrant herbs	Onion garlic
	Cabbage, turnip, peas
	Black poplar, maple(protects with phytoncides), oak	Walnut, Manchurian and black walnut, white locust, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry, stone fruit, wheatgrass, beech, dark coniferous (spruce, fir, cedar)
	Like radishes, radishes - beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, cucumbers, tomatoes, squash and squash	Peas, strawberries, cabbage
Delphinium
Tree pliers (red bubble) round-leaved		Do not plant near fruit trees	To decorate buildings
	old apple tree maple holly, linden, pine, cedar	White locust, ash, elm - not very	In groups with conifers
fragrant herbs	Peas, kohlrabi
	Corn, beans, radish, tomatoes	Potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage
	Rowan, hazel, raspberry	White acacia, horse chestnut, fir, lilac, Tatra maple, rose, wild rose, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry	Fir, pine, birch, maple, ash, shrubs
	Eggplant, tomatoes
strawberries	Beans, spinach, lettuce, onion, garlic, marigold, calendula	It is undesirable to grow after potatoes, eggplants, peppers, cabbage, cucumbers, asters, lilies, gladioli (so as not to get infected with their diseases)	Legumes, onions, garlic, greens. crops, radishes, celery, beets, carrots are good predecessors
cereals		Barberry
		See pear, except for the 4th last. + Manchurian walnut
	Corn, beans, beans, lettuce, onion, celery	tomatoes	Separately - zucchini, pumpkins, squash (better not together)
Calendula	Apple tree, currant, roses, tulips, gladioli. Strawberries, onions, peas, tomatoes
		Inhibits the growth of other plants	Oak, linden, rowan
	Celery, cucumbers, beets, mustard, spinach, dill, lettuce, onions, potatoes, nasturtium(with all cabbages), calendula, tobacco	Strawberries, tomatoes, beans
Brussels sprouts	Chinese cabbage
Chinese cabbage	Brussels sprouts, cauliflower
leafy cabbage	With many. Dill, celery, onion	Tomatoes, beans, strawberries
Cauliflower	Celery, Chinese cabbage, beans, parsley, sage	Tomatoes. strawberry

Potato	Watermelon, broccoli, cabbage, corn, peas, beans, beans, horseradish, eggplant, onion, nasturtium, carrot, lettuce, dill, coriander	Pumpkin, tomatoes, cucumbers, sunflower, raspberry, cherry, apple tree	Good: cereals as predecessors; peas, calendula
horse chestnut		Inhibits the growth of other plants	Single landings
Norway maple, field, Tatar	Apple tree, pear. Oak companion. Linden	Spruce - suppresses Tatar	Against the backdrop of conifers
Kohlrabi	Cucumbers, onions, beets, salad, fragrant herbs	Strawberries, tomatoes
Watercress
Corn	Artichoke, peas, beans, melon, zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers, potatoes, barley, lupins, mustard		Restrains raspberry growth
	Spruce, raspberry
	The apple tree is old; oak, coniferous, maple		Oak, rowan, maple, ash, skumpia
	Cabbage, kohlrabi, broccoli, potatoes, beets, carrot, tomatoes, eggplant, lettuce, chicory, leek, garlic, strawberries, calendula, savory, tobacco	Peas, beans. Aggressive to legumes and cabbage	Suppresses fungal diseases
Leek	Celery, onions, carrots, tomatoes
	Spruce, apple tree, pine, mountain ash, hazel		The growth is well restrained by corn
Chard		Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans
	Peas.Leek, onion, lettuce, parsley, radish, beans, tomatoes, marjoram, sage	Beets, celery, horseradish
Nasturtium	Vegetables, potatoes, phlox, cabbage, tomatoes, turnips
	Nasturtium, delphinium
	Peas, corn, beans, radish, tomatoes, cabbage, kohlrabi, lettuce, Dill	Potatoes, fragrant herbs	Kotovnik and lemon balm - attract bees
Manchurian walnut		Inhibits apple, pear, yew, irga, mountain ash
	old apple tree
	Lettuce, onion (feather), tomato, eggplant	Beans, peas, cucumbers, fennel, celery
Parsnip
Parsley	(Carrots), Asparagus, Tomatoes, Peas, Beans, Beans, Onions, Lettuce	Carrots, beets, celery, horseradish	Protects everyone from pests
		Inhibits the growth of other plants	Larch, pine, birch, spruce
	Everyone is oppressed
	Single plant (except for perennial onions, horseradish)	Gooseberry	Good - fruit berry plantings
	Spinach, dill, watercress, beets, carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini and pumpkin, fragrant herbs	Peas, beans, strawberries	Before zucchini, zucchini and other late
	zucchini, cucumbers, beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips, pumpkin, melon, tomatoes, lettuce	Peas, beans, strawberries, cabbage
	Spinach, dill, lettuce, carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, beets, pumpkin, tomatoes	Beans, peas, horseradish, celery
	Garlic, calendula	Apple tree, pear
	Spruce, cherry, pine, raspberry
	strawberries, cabbage, kohlrabi, carrots, beets, radishes, onions, cucumbers	Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans	Activates the roots of other plants - helpers
Salad chicory (witloof)	Strawberries, cucumbers, carrots, radish, cabbage	Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans
	onion, radish, lettuce, kohlrabi, broccoli, most cabbage	Mustard, beans	Chorus. predecessors: legumes, winter cereals, perennial grasses, corn
Celery	broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, leek, radish, carrot, beetroot	Tomatoes, peas, beans
		Suppresses the growth of other plants, "suffers" from spruce	Od., gr. landing, live. izg.
Scorzonera (black root)	Onions, cabbage, radish, carrots, beets	Tomatoes, beans, horseradish, peas
		Apple tree, pear	Do not plant next to sea buckthorn
Currant	Garlic, calendula, geranium, Jerusalem artichoke, homemade hops	Cherry (with blackcurrant), lily, tulip (bulbous)
	Apple tree, raspberry, mountain ash, larch, fir, spruce, hazel, oak, cedar, linden	Suffering from birch; aspen	Spruce, larch,
	Parsley, basil, tomatoes
		Walnut, Manchurian and black walnut, barberry, white locust, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine)	Deciduous species, od. and small gr. landings
	Onion, leek, carrot, radish, celery, parsley, asparagus, cabbage(?), herbs, garlic, calendula, levkoy, apple tree, eggplant, peppers, basil	Kohlrabi, tall vegetables, beans, peas, cucumbers	Help berry bushes
Poplar black	Pear, apple tree		Closer to the pond
	Peas, mustard
	Corn, beans, radish, onion, lettuce	Potato, cabbage
	Garlic, calendula
	Turnip, radish, cabbage, apple tree
	eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, corn, beets, carrots, cauliflower, peas, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon, strawberry, savory, gladiolus	Onion, garlic, broccoli, fennel	Protects everyone from pests
	Everyone is oppressed
	Tomatoes, lettuce, onion (feather), pepper	Beans, peas, cucumbers, fragrant herbs
	Nasturtium
	Potatoes, fragrant herbs	Tomatoes, beans
	Onion
	Beans, onions
	Rowan Nevezhinskaya, apple tree	White acacia, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), apple tree, pear, black currant
	Roses, tulips, gladioli, currants, strawberries, onions, peas (?), tomatoes	Peas (?), beans	Aggressive to legumes and cabbage. Suppresses fungal diseases
Mock orange (jasmine)		Inhibits the growth of other plants
	Broccoli, carrots
Rose hip		Spruce. Inhibits the growth of other plants	All bushes in one place
	Strawberries, turnips, radishes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, carrots	Pumpkin, tomatoes, beans	Activates the roots of other plants
	Strawberries, carrots, radish, cabbage	Tomatoes, peas, beans, sage and other fragrant
	Linden and grapes as predecessors. Under the old apple trees - oak, linden, birch, hazel, cherry plum and other conifers, Pine, black poplar, maple, raspberries, dill, tomatoes, hemp, tansy, calendula. The smell of mullein infusion or "green manure", sweet cherry	Potato, couch grass, walnut, Manchurian and black walnut, white locust, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, mock orange (jasmine), barberry, stone fruits
Common ash (high)		Suppresses the growth of woody and shrubby plants, oak - "so-so"

Vika + oats + ryegrass - good; linen + clover

"Bird cherry, oak, maple clung to each other"

From the article: “In the taiga, there is often a neighborhood of cedar, mountain ash, raspberry, hazel, fir, Siberian spruce, Siberian and Dahurian larch.”

Plants that overwhelm the rest are monoplants: “white locust, horse chestnut, fir, rose, lilac, viburnum, jasmine, barberry. Around the poplar - 6 meters zone of suppression of others.

On the contrary, they do not like their own kind: apple trees, pears, cherries, cherry plums. The fruits of the apple tree and pear give off etymes that accelerate the ripening of the fruits of other plants.

Note

This table was compiled taking into account the analysis of several sources on the mutual influence of cultures. That is, the principle was in effect: those data on compatibility that turned out to be the same, common to several authors, were entered in the table. Data that differed or were inconsistent were not included in the table. So, the whole table is, as it were, a conclusion or summary of several sources on this topic.