The mechanism for collecting water in the toilet. Toilet flush - how to install a flush system

It is impossible to imagine a comfortable home without a well-equipped toilet room, in which the toilet is the central place. A significant part of this familiar item for us is the cistern. It seems to be an absolutely unsightly container, which, by the way, is not always visible - sometimes it is built into the wall. However, as soon as the flush mechanism for the toilet bowl becomes unusable, we immediately understand the importance of this item - a real disaster ensues in the house.

How the mechanical flush works

A toilet bowl without a well-thought-out drainage system would functionally turn into an ordinary pot (or a night vase), which sooner or later would have to be emptied. Flushing with tap water frees us from unnecessary actions and makes the procedure for going to the toilet quite comfortable.

One of the outdated flush cistern models perfectly demonstrates the principle of operation: pressure on the lever - water drain - automatic opening of the filling valve - water intake - valve closing

Water from the pipes through a flexible hose enters the drain tank, which is equipped with two mechanisms - filling and drain. The filling equipment allows water to accumulate in the tank, but only up to a certain level, then the supply valve is closed.

The drain fittings begin to function when we press the button (pull the chain or lever). A predetermined portion of water is poured into the toilet bowl at high speed, flushing all its contents down the drain. As you can see, the principle of operation of the cistern is simple and is based on the alternating action of the shut-off valves.

It is not surprising that young children cannot answer the question: what is a cistern? They don't even suspect that this device is hidden behind the wall above the toilet.

So, let's try to understand the structure that is inside the tank - it just refers to those things that we absolutely do not pay attention to in everyday life.

The components of the cistern

Knowing well the device of the toilet cistern, you can quickly repair it or, at least, purchase damaged parts on your own.

Filling valve

Its purpose is to regulate the water level in the tank and supply the required amount as it decreases. Once upon a time, an elementary water level indicator - a float - was invented, and it turned out to be such a successful invention that it is still an indispensable part of the armature.

The original device looked like this: a brass rocker, at one end with a float, at the other - a valve with a rubber gasket, shutting off the water. The modern design has changed slightly, but the principle of operation remains the same. The drain diagram clearly shows the interaction of all parts of the mechanism.

Details of the design of the drain tank: 1 - filling valve; 2 - pear in a single block with overflow; 3 - handle (pull); 4 - float; 5 - water level

The float began to move vertically, and not be positioned horizontally, as before. Water began to flow into the tank faster, since the hole is completely open, and the shut-off valve does not close it gradually, but entirely, but at the very end of the set. Another difference is that the valve is located at the bottom, not at the side.

Drain and overflow system

All of the latest modifications have evolved from one original version - the pear system. The older design of the toilet cistern was equipped with a soft rubber bulb that sealed the drain hole. It was worth pulling the lever - and the water rushed down with a noise.

A sample of an elementary toilet cistern device, where the filling mechanism is equipped with a plastic float on the rocker, and the drain system is equipped with a traditional rubber bulb

Now the drain device looks different. This is a fitting connected to the filling and overflow system. It begins to function after pressing the button located in the lid. The widespread concern about saving water has led to another innovation - the button has two parts; choosing one of them, you can provide a small or large drain.

The cistern assembly consists of plastic parts and rubber gaskets. In the event of a breakdown, you can purchase the whole set or one of the parts separately at a plumbing store

The drain mechanism is combined with an overflow - insurance against overflow of the tank. If there is an excess of water, then it does not pour out, but goes straight into the sewer. According to experts, German drain fittings are of higher quality, in the absence of them - Polish ones, which, moreover, cost much less.

Toilet cistern classification

There are several divisions into groups, and in one of them the classification is based precisely on the features of the toilet flush cistern mechanism.

So, there can be two locations for a button or lever:

  • Lateral. It is more often used for cisterns that are not mounted on the toilet shelf, but on the wall - at a certain height. With this device, the water is drained by pulling the chain.
  • Top. The button that activates the drainage system is installed exactly in the middle of the tank lid.

The flush button for a wall-mounted cistern exists separately from it and is mounted directly above the toilet, exemplifying a modern aesthetic approach

By material of manufacture:

  • Cast iron. Until now, cast iron in our country is considered to be something very practical, so many keep their rare treasures and do not want to change them to modern ones - more convenient and beautiful.
  • Faience. Most popular as they are part of the compact toilet bowl. The familiar models, easily mounted on the toilet shelf, have many designs that differ in shape and color.
  • Plastic. Tanks that are built into the wall and therefore have an unusual, flatter shape.

Among the simple, economical sanitary ware, you can find real masterpieces made in a variety of styles - from country to modern. True, the cost of these products starts from 20 thousand rubles.

By installation method:

  • Top mount. The cistern is mounted high on the wall, exactly above the toilet, and communicates with the toilet through a pipe. This method of fastening is outdated, however, there are several models of this type on sale, since the demand for them does not stop.
  • Wall mounting. A modern method that requires a complete rework of at least one wall, because the tank will be hidden inside it. It seems that there is more space in the toilet, although the erected wall “steals” some part of the area.
  • A cistern on a toilet shelf. The most common model familiar to everyone. The good thing is that in the event of a breakdown, any malfunction can be quickly repaired.

Toilets with a cistern suspended high from the ceiling are not suitable for every interior, but will look great in a retro-style washroom

The cistern is an integral part of the compact toilet. A pair of earthenware is popular due to the variety of budget designs: for 4-5 thousand rubles, you can purchase an excellent set along with fittings

In our next article, you will learn about the causes of condensation on the tank and how to fix them:.

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 4 minutes

Plumbing equipment is subject to intense operational stress and often fails. When the toilet cistern is constantly leaking, it brings big losses due to excessive consumption of water. It is impractical to call the masters due to the failure of the device, since the repair for the most part consists in setting up the tank mechanism. But in order to understand how to fix a toilet, you first need to know how it works. Let's figure out how to independently repair a toilet cistern with a button.

Toilet device

The toilet bowl includes the following elements:

  1. Toilet bowl connected to the sewer pipe with a sealed cuff.
  2. Cistern with fittings for filling and draining with water.

The water supply hose is connected to the tank. It can be connected from the side or from below, depending on the design. The bowl and cistern are usually connected to each other using bolts and seals.

Hardware components:

  • a pull rod trigger with a drain button;
  • a shut-off device (inlet valve) connected to the float;
  • rubber sealed gaskets.

How does a toilet with a button work?

A toilet cistern with a button is a water seal that is filled with a portion of water that is fed into the bowl when the shutter is opened. The flush is controlled by a button that must be pressed. At the same time, the valve opens, and water, under the influence of its own weight, flows down, washing the bowl. After emptying the tank, the inlet shut-off valve opens, the tank is filled with the next portion to a certain level, regulated by a float. The mechanism is accessible by opening the top lid of the tank.

Preparing for repair

Before you fix the toilet cistern, you need to open it. It can only be accessed from above if the cover is removed. In many modifications, it is attached with a ring around the button. This ring must be pressed and rotated counterclockwise. After prolonged use, the ring may not turn. Then a few drops of oil are applied to the attachment site. After the ring turns, unscrew it, and then release the button from the plastic clothespins and remove the cover.

DIY repair methods for the tank mechanism

The entire drainage valve mechanism is visible through the upper opening in the tank. It may have the following faults:

  1. The tank is constantly leaking.
  2. There is no water pressure at the inlet.
  3. Uncontrolled drain mechanism.

The reasons for these malfunctions may be different, and the way in which the toilet cistern will be repaired depends on them.

  • The plug (pear) does not fit snugly against the drain hole. To avoid this, you should purchase high quality plumbing. The repair can be checked by pressing the stem down with a little force. If there is no water flow, the plug can be slightly weighted with additional weight or the stem can be leveled. You also need to periodically clean the seal from rust and salts, due to which the tightness is broken, and the liquid constantly flows into the bowl.
  • The regulator does not shut off the water supply. At the same time, the tank will never overflow, thanks to the presence of an overflow pipe. The serviceability of each element of the device is checked: float, inlet valve, fasteners, rod. The failed part is replaced or the float mount is simply tightened.
  • Leakage from the tank into the room. It may have a crack or the seal of the gaskets is broken. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the connection between the current tank and the bowl. It needs to be tightened, and if this does not help, the rubber gasket changes. Another cause of leakage may be wear of the cuff in the junction of the bowl drain with the sewer pipe. The seal is changed to a new one, after cleaning the connection from contamination and treating the surfaces with a sealant.
  • Weak head through the inlet valve. This usually happens if it becomes clogged. This can be prevented by cleaning or installing a filter in front of it.

Replacing the intake valve

Before you repair the toilet, turn off the water supply tap. It connects to the pipeline from the riser. After that, the flexible hose is unscrewed from the intake mechanism. It can be easily removed if you loosen the mount. Instead, a new or refurbished one is installed. Assembly is carried out upside-down. The plastic thread does not require a seal, and a fluoroplastic tape is wound onto the brass thread.

Replacing the drain valve

The main cause is wear of the O-ring under the valve. To replace it, you need to remove the hardware and install a new gasket. After that, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

The water release button should always be used carefully and pressed without sudden force.

Adjusting the water level in the tank

The water level can be easily adjusted with your own hands. For this, the float is installed in a certain position.

The optimal level is considered to be when the water supply to the container has stopped, and a few centimeters are left to its upper edge.

The adjustment method depends on the valve design. The easiest is to bend a metal bar. If the float moves along a horizontal plastic guide, it is fixed by means of fastening elements in a certain position. In a vertical arrangement, it is moved with an adjusting screw.

The overflow tube must not be forgotten when choosing the fill level. Its upper edge should be a couple of centimeters above the water level in the filled container. If it is located lower, water will constantly flow into the bowl through the overflow.

Tank troubleshooting

The tank may leak water due to a crack in it. The same goes for the bowl. In this case, the question of how to repair the cistern or bowl is not worth it: the entire toilet is usually replaced. A small crack in the tops of the stoneware can be repaired. So that it does not spread further, and does not increase the seepage of water, it is drilled at the ends and processed along the entire length with sandpaper. The work is done neatly.

The surface is degreased and the gap is filled with epoxy. After hardening, the seam is grinded.

Repair of the built-in tank (with installation)

It is more difficult to get to the mechanism of the tank installed behind the false wall. First of all, you should purchase a device with high reliability, which rarely requires repair. There should be inspection hatches in the wall through which you can get to the tank and replace the gaskets if the tightness is broken. Drain fittings cannot be repaired with their own hands due to the complexity of the design.

A coarse filter is installed in front of the hidden cistern, which traps solid particles, due to which, in most cases, leakage occurs.

How to choose the right plumbing?

When choosing a toilet, attention is paid to the following.

  • Mounting method: monoblocks, compact and separate toilets. The choice is made taking into account the size of the room, the design and the laboriousness of servicing the tank.
  • Fittings. Most of the parts with low strength and reliability are made of plastic.
  • Positive feedback, a well-known manufacturer, warranty and certificate.

Without a toilet bowl in the bathroom, you can't call a cottage or apartment comfortable. Agree, this statement is difficult to refute. There are a huge number of models of this plumbing. But they do not differ in the particular complexity of the internal structure, the principle of operation is the same for all modifications.

If there is a breakdown with the water supply, then the flush mechanism for the toilet will most likely have to be repaired - it is the flush system that most often fails with this plumbing fixture. We are ready to help you quickly deal with this problem.

In this material, we have collected and summarized information about the main types of toilet cisterns, breakdowns that may occur, and ways to eliminate them. For clarity, the materials are accompanied by thematic photos and videos.

The cistern is an integral and one of the main elements of the toilet. This is a container with two or three technological holes for water inlet / outlet and a lid.

First, water is drawn into this reservoir, and then, when a button is pressed, it is drained into the toilet bowl to flush the sewage down the drain.

There is nothing particularly interesting or complicated in the design of a toilet cistern. There are only a couple of mechanisms inside.

One ensures the supply and shutdown of the supplied water at the moment when it fills the container to the desired level, and the second is designed to directly drain the accumulated moisture into the bowl.

Regardless of the design of the toilet bowl, a flush cistern must be present in it, since the direct supply of water from the cold water supply pipeline does not allow ensuring the proper quality and purity of flushing

According to the material of manufacture, cisterns are divided into three types:

  1. Ceramic(earthenware) - reliable and cheap classics.
  2. Metallic- not very aesthetic in appearance, but a durable option.
  3. Plastic(made of polyethylene) - lightweight blocks in terms of weight and installation.

According to the method of attachment and location, they are:

  • low-lying- installed directly on the toilet bowl;
  • high-lying- they are hung on the wall or located inside it in the installation block.

Separate toilets, in which the tank is separated from the bowl, have a drain pipe for overflowing water. And the higher the storage tank is suspended from them, the more powerful the water pressure is obtained from it.

Their only drawback is the not very presentable appearance of the tank, located high above the floor. Therefore, most often in domestic toilets, you can see models of toilet bowls with cisterns placed directly on the edge of the bowl. They are more compact and aesthetic.

Water supply system options

The internal mechanism for feeding water into the toilet cistern includes:

  • tap ();
  • levers.

Water supply to the storage device is carried out through a hole in its housing on the right, left or bottom. In the lateral method, the float is attached to the end of the horizontal arm, which is connected to the ball valve.

And with the bottom version, the float is connected to a vertical rod located in the supply pipe.

The basic principle of the mechanism for supplying water to the toilet cistern is extremely simple. As a result of the emptying of the reservoir, the float, which is kept on the water by the air inside, falls following the decrease in the liquid level.

Once at the bottom, he opens the valve of the fittings on the water supply system, and as the tank is filled, it rises again and shuts off the water supply.

Everything in the operation of this mechanism is based on the laws of physics. There is no electronics in its design, which significantly reduces the risk of breakdown. It is possible that there is too little or too much water in the toilet cistern.

Then the float only needs to be adjusted so that the filling of the tank matches the required parameters. But if the levers are broken, then the float system will have to be changed.

Varieties of drainage mechanisms

If it is necessary to flush the unnecessary from the toilet, we simply press the button on the cistern. Everything else happens by itself. Inside, a water drainage mechanism is triggered, opening the drain valve.

As a result, the water stream rushes into the bowl and flushes everything into the sewer system.

The mechanisms of filling and draining are not structurally connected with each other, each of them functions independently, but these devices start / stop in a bundle at the same time

The drain device is driven by:

  • by pressing a button;
  • by pressing the lever;
  • pulling the chain (rope).

The cisterns are available in different shapes and designs. However, most of them are standardized for a volume of 6 or 4 liters and have typical hole sizes for drain valves.

There are a huge number of water drainage mechanisms themselves, different in design. But if the one in the tank breaks down, it can be replaced with a new one without any problems.

Our other article contains information about the device of the spillway device -.

The simplest type of drain siphon is a "pear" shaped like a rubber plunger. Under the weight of the water, it presses tightly against the drain hole and closes it.

And when you press the lever, the "pear" rises due to mechanical force and releases water into the toilet bowl.

Then, as the tank fills, it becomes heavier and falls back onto the saddle, closing the drain again.

Everything is arranged in such a way that, by definition, it will not be able to pour out of the tank. When triggered, such a transfusion will lead to an increase in the cold water meter readings, but will avoid a flood.

Structurally, the drain of water in the toilet itself is horizontal or circular. The first classic version assumes the supply of water in a continuous flow from one side of the bowl, and the second - the formation of jets in a circular manner from its bypass.

Horizontal descent is cheaper in execution, but uneconomical and worse washes the sanitary ware. The circular analogue is better in all operational parameters.

However, with a high degree of water hardness, its small holes can become clogged, which will lead to a decrease in the number of jets.

The principle of operation of the dual-mode drain

Modern models of flush cisterns are equipped with a double flush button. This is a tribute to the water saving fashion.

Such devices are designed for two modes of operation:

  • standard- to dump the entire tank into the bowl (4 or 6 liters);
  • half- to pour out only a part of the volume (2 or 3 liters).

Such a system is more economical in terms of water consumption. But it is also more capricious in terms of setting and repairing. The number of internal elements in it is increased, which means that the risk of breakage of this device also increases.

A two-mode flush tank with a pair of buttons allows you to significantly save water, since in some cases only part of it is used, and not all of it

In addition to the double version, there can be one button for a dual-mode drain mechanism. In this case, the released volume of water depends on the force of pressure of a person on the lever.

As long as the button is pressed, the drain hole remains open, and when released, it returns upward and at the same time closes the drain.

Selection and repair of tank mechanisms

Choosing a toilet cistern, you have to compromise between the price of the flush device and its quality. The construction of metal elements is more durable, but also more expensive than a completely made of plastic.

The water supply from below is less noisy from the side, but you will have to overpay for it. The side-mounted mechanism is simpler in design and cheaper.

The Soviet float design with a plastic barrel on the shoulder made of wire may not look very presentable, but this is the most inexpensive and easy-to-adjust option.

The float is made in the form of a hollow sealed cylinder or an inverted glass. The first option is more reliable, but when holes appear in the plastic walls, you can forget about tightness. Water seeping through the holes will inevitably lead to failure of the float.

Its principle of operation is based on the presence of air inside. If punctures appear in the plastic, it must be replaced immediately.

The "glass" is initially leaky, it has an order of magnitude less trouble with breakdowns - but if it accumulates inside the sediment due to high water hardness, it will become too heavy and stop working properly

The problem may be due to a dirty drain valve. It's just that dirt has accumulated between the rubber element and the seat in the form of rust from old pipes or sludge.

In this case, you don't have to change anything, just remove the cover, lift the cuff and clean everything under it with a rag. But if the rubber is worn out or aged, then it will definitely need to be replaced.

You may also be interested in the information on how to replace, discussed in our article.

Before installing the valve inside the tank, it must be fixed to the bowl. The device and layout of the toilet cistern are such that after the installation of the internal mechanisms, it will be problematic to reach the tie bolts.

First, you should install and fix the ceramic tank on the edge of the toilet bowl, and only then install all the devices for supplying / draining water in it.

Repair of the float valve is carried out in the following order:

Image gallery

Disturbances in the operation of the cistern float valve are most often associated with damage to the membrane or valve. In order to replace the damaged element, unscrew the device

To "get" to the membrane or valve, we disassemble the valve head

If the membrane is torn, it will have to be replaced. we go with her to the store to buy exactly the same one. It happens that disturbances in the operation of the crane are associated only with the appearance of sediment on the parts, then we do not change anything, we just clean it with a brush dipped in vinegar

Instead of the damaged head of the float valve, we install a new element with a membrane. We put the device in its original place, if necessary, set the level

Step 1: Unscrewing the float valve from the tank wall

Step 2: Disassemble the float head

Step 3: Determining membrane damage

Step 4: Installing a new diaphragm head

Adjusting the water level

If the water is supplied from the side, then the maximum of its level in the tank is regulated by changing the length of the spoke. It is at its end that the float is fixed. In older and many newer models, a thick brass wire acts as this lever.

It just needs to be bent in the middle so that the float moves up or down. The higher it turns out to be, the more volume of the tank will be filled.

However, now more and more metal is being changed to plastic. And the plastic elements cannot be bent at the desired angle, they can simply break.

In such a design, the float must be shifted along the axis of the plastic stud, thereby increasing or decreasing the lever arm. The farther the float is from the valve, the more water will enter the tank.

Image gallery

In order to adjust the position of the float, remove the tank button, then the lid. We are looking for an adjusting bolt with a nut

We loosen the nut of the adjusting bolt, change the position of the float in accordance with the level we need, fix the result by tightening the nut with pliers

Pulling the flush rod, we check its operation, we monitor to what level the tank is filled after changing the position of the float

The level of water collected in the tank must be below the drain hole. If it is higher and water spills out of the hole, change the position of the float again

Step 1: Prepare to adjust the float position

Step 2: Adjusting the position of the float with the nut

Step 3: Checking the function of the flush device

Step 4: Change the level based on actual results

The float arm in models with bottom water inlet is located vertically. It is much easier to regulate the water level here.

The float element just needs to be moved up / down and fixed at the required height using the clamps or nuts provided for this.

To simplify the adjustment of the float position, some mechanisms have a threaded connection on the rod or a rotating block to adjust the position of this "displacer"

The main problem when making an adjustment is not to change the position of the float, but to remove the lid of the toilet bowl. A drain button is attached to it, which in many models is rigidly connected to the release mechanism.

In order not to break anything, disassemble this structure with extreme caution. First you need to carefully unscrew the button clamping ring. And only after that it will be possible to move the cover without fear.

You still have an annoying breakage of the toilet lid? You can try to fix it yourself. In this article, we have walked through how to do this step by step.

If, when the float is in the upper position, water still continues to flow into the tank, then the problem lies in the inlet valve. It will have to be disassembled and cleaned or completely changed.

Almost all the working elements of the toilet cistern mechanism are now made of plastic, not metal. Because of this, they often break.

Plumbing stores sell both ready-made drain and supply structures, as well as their individual components for repair. In some situations, it is cheaper to replace only part of the device, while in others it is easier to replace the entire assembly.

Photo instructions for replacing the device

For home craftsmen who want to completely change a damaged drain device, the following photo instruction will help in their work:

Image gallery

We shut off the water supply, then drain all the water from the tank. Unscrew the button or remove the drain lever, remove the tank lid

In order to remove the broken drain mechanism, turn it 1/4 turn counterclockwise

We determine the cause of the malfunction of the drainage system. If it is damaged in the valve or in the appearance of a mineral sediment on it, clean the valve or replace it with a new one.

Now it is difficult to imagine how people could live in a house without a toilet. But today the bathroom should also be equipped with the most modern equipment, otherwise you will not get ease of use and comfort. In any bathroom, the toilet is given a central place. At the same time, the drain mechanism is slightly different for different models, so special attention should be paid to the trigger device - the flush tank valve, which we will consider in more detail today.

Groups of drainage devices

There are only two types of toilet flush mechanisms that stand out depending on how they are put into operation:

Push-on The second name is push-button, in which the drain can be:
  1. Single-mode - there is only one key or button that you need to press to pour water from the tank into the toilet.
  2. Dual-mode - the device consists of 2 halves or two buttons. One serves to drain half of the water from the tank, the second opens the mechanism for its complete emptying. The second name is the flush tank valve with 2 buttons.

A third type has also been developed - with a stop function. It is equipped with one key, but the water can drain in different ways. To regulate it is necessary to press the button several times. For example, with the first press, you open the water, and with the second, you shut off its descent.

Fume hoods They are also called stock. This is due to the fact that to activate the device, you need to lift the stem up with the handle, after which the drain hole will open. Recently released new models of toilet bowls do not have such a system.

Float valves

Used to supply and discharge water.

The devices are of the following types:

  1. Croydon valve- consists of a shell, an axis of the lever on the float, a saddle and a piston, its price is the lowest. The lever moves perpendicularly, dragging the piston with it. The system is usually used in old cisterns, which are extremely rare today.
  2. Valve with piston- equipped with a lever axle, which is fixed in a bifurcated cotter pin. Movement of the lever in the horizontal direction sets the piston in motion, which periodically touches the seat, which allows you to regulate the water supply to the tank. At the end, it has a seal, which, in contact with the seat, blocks the flow of water. This valve model is widespread today.
  3. Diaphragm valve- instead of a gasket, a rubber or silicone membrane is used in the design, which displaces during the movement of the piston. Thanks to this, at the right time, it can shut off the incoming water flow. This type of device is the newest and most modern, usually used in the latest models of cisterns. Below we will consider precisely its design features and the device of the mechanism.

Modern toilet cistern valves

Advantages:

  1. The float diaphragm valve allows you to quickly draw water into the tank.
  2. Noise or silent filling depends on the quality of the selected fittings.
  3. With its help, you can very quickly turn off the water, unlike previous models.

Of the shortcomings - the instruction requires only a constant pressure in the water supply network for the normal operation of the device. Its parameters should be 0.05-0.1 MPa. In addition, the purity of the water plays a special role, otherwise the valve will quickly fail. Alas, in most cases outside the city these conditions are often not achieved.

The next point that cannot be ignored is the quality of the locking and fittings. The material for manufacturing must be of high quality and defects are not allowed in its production, otherwise the life of the products will be significantly reduced.

The device will have to be changed often, because repairs will not help in this case. Making a new membrane with your own hands is unrealistic.

How the valve works

The inlet fittings of the tank have their own principle of operation, which must be dealt with before carrying out work on its repair or replacement.

Let's take a closer look at the process below.

  1. The first stage - the valve is open and water begins to flow into the tank. In this case, the membrane moves away under the action of the water flow and does not interfere with it. Only the preliminary compartment is filled.
    In order for water to enter the tank itself, a special hole is made in the compartment. The mechanism of the process is similar to the operation of devices equipped with valves with a stem, only with a membrane stretched over the piston.
    It has a clearance for the passage of the plastic rod, which also has a clearance of Ø1 mm. Because of this, a small part of the water enters the filling chamber, which is formed by a piston and a membrane.
    When the float is lowered, a Ø0.5 mm hole opens in the piston, through which a little water can enter the tank. This makes it possible to ensure the same pressure in the upstream and downstream compartments. In fact, this is the difference between diaphragm and stem design.
  2. The second stage - water enters the tank, raising the float up. At the same time, the level of the stem with a rubber seal begins to increase, which closes the hole. Further movement of the rod forces the piston and the diaphragm to the seat more strongly, due to which the filling compartment is sealed. The created water pressure also helps. The membrane is pressed tightly against the seats, and water stops flowing into the tank.
  3. The third stage is the descent of the water. At this moment, the pressure of the float on the rod stops, which ceases to close the hole in the piston, due to which the pressure in the filling compartment begins to decrease. At this moment, the tap pressure displaces the membrane, and the work of the tank goes into the first stage.

Eliminating Mechanism Problems

Water is not drawn into the tank or the supply is not cut off:

  1. This is usually due to a blockage in one of the holes.
  2. The second option is failure of the membrane or stem.

Tip: you need to disassemble the device and look at all its elements that need to be cleaned and rinsed.

  1. Another reason for such malfunctions is low pressure in the water supply system or its surges during the day. The device may also not work because of this. (See also the article.)

If the pressure is too low, water does not enter the tank at all. For example, in a suspended structure, it will not even reach the filling chamber. The float will float, but the flow will not block.

Advice: as an option, increase the water inlet holes by reaming them by 2-3 mm.

Conclusion

Today, the device of the drain valve, which is used in the toilet cistern, was considered, the reasons why the equipment can fail. With this knowledge, you will be able to cope with these problems on your own. The video in this article will provide an opportunity to find additional information on the above topic.

Many years ago, one of the most important inventions of mankind was the toilet. Today, such a structure is always present in every home. To maintain this device, to do maintenance and repairs, you need to know well the structure of the toilet. It comes in several forms. This affects its design features.

The floor-mounted toilet is convenient and easy to install.

Wall-hung toilet is also called wall-mounted. This device can have a cistern that is installed in a wall recess. Sometimes the tank is not installed. In addition, there are:

  • the toilet is floor-standing;
  • compact toilet bowls, completed with a cistern;
  • separate toilets;
  • attached;
  • turkish;
  • bowl "genoa".

Compact devices

In Russia during the Soviet era, it was decided to make a toilet that would take up little space and be multifunctional. This is how compact toilets appeared. This design remains the most popular model today.

The toilet bowl is equipped with:

  • bowl;
  • flush cistern;
  • fittings.

This device is very easy to mount in almost any apartment where the bathroom is small. Such a toilet belongs to the class of floor-standing ones, in other words, it is fastened directly to the floor. The entire load falls on the floor, which supports the mass of the device and the rider.

One of the disadvantages of such a device is considered to be a flush cistern. It takes up a lot of space. When the toilet is small, the user's feet sometimes touch the door.

It is very difficult to maintain such a device. To maintain hygiene, the bowl and tank must be kept clean. Washing such a system is a very laborious task.

This design of the toilet bowl requires that all communication lines, as well as the sewer outlet, be kept clean. I must say that today monolithic toilet bowls have begun to be produced. In these devices, the body merges with the wall, all communications are hidden. To make a toilet of this type, engineers have developed a new type of structure. This model is distinguished by its modern design and spectacular appearance.

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Hanging toilet bowls

Suspension devices are widely used in Europe. In the past 10 years, such suspended structures have become very popular in our country.

The advantage of such a device is:

  • easy care;
  • high hygiene.

Due to the fact that the toilet bowl has no support, it has become very easy to clean the floor of such a toilet. The flush cistern is hidden in the wall and is practically invisible. However, this design requires the installation of a supporting frame, which must have a rigid metal frame.

The frame is fixed to the floor with anchor bolts. For higher reliability, if possible, it is additionally attached to the wall. A similar design is capable of withstanding 400 kg.

A toilet bowl is installed on the frame, together with a cistern. The whole structure is lined with plasterboard sheets. Only the toilet and the flush button are visible.

The main details of the toilet:

  1. Cistern.
  2. Bowl.
  3. Seat.

The main part of the bowl is the hydraulic seal. It is a curved channel that is always filled with water. Its work allows wastewater to go down the drain. Such a siphon does not allow bad odors to pass through and blocks blockages.

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Hydraulic shutter

The main principle of this mechanism is to change the parameters of atmospheric pressure, which is formed in the sewer system and the riser. At atmospheric pressure exceeding the air pressure of the sewage system, the amount of liquid in the hydraulic seal begins to decrease, a small part of it is sent to the riser.

The inlet of the hydraulic seal is almost always made in a vertical plane, its outlet is made at an angle of 90 ° or slightly inclined. If you do not use the odor trap for a long time, the liquid may simply evaporate.

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Cistern

The main task of this device is to supply water to clean the toilet bowl. When a tank is made, a wide variety of materials are used:

  • ceramics;
  • plastic;
  • cast iron;
  • stainless steel.

The main parts of the cistern are:

  • pear;
  • valve;
  • traction;
  • float.

The pear is made of ordinary rubber, the float is made of plastic materials, and a non-ferrous metal, such as copper, is used for traction. When the water is drained, the rubber bulb begins to rise. When the tank is empty, the bulb returns to its original position, completely covering the drain hole.

The overflow is a cylinder fitted with a throat.

When the float valve breaks, excess water flows through the overflow, falling into the toilet. Sometimes the overflow design is made in conjunction with the pear, but more often it is made as a separate unit.

For a very long time, toilet bowls were mounted in houses, having a separate high-mounted cistern. These devices used a siphon escapement system. The negative side of this mechanism was the high noise level.

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Connecting communications

The water pipes and the tank are connected by rubber hoses with brass nuts equipped with O-rings. Plastic hoses with plastic nuts are very unreliable in operation. They can only be used as a temporary option.

The branch pipe to which cold water is connected is installed depending on the type of tank. When liquid is supplied from the side, it is attached to the side; when water is supplied from below, it is fixed at the bottom of the tank. It should be noted that when the bottom fluid supply is made, the noise power when the tank is filled is much lower. This option is much prettier and nicer.

Compact toilets have holes on the side where the water supply is connected. One is closed with a plug attached to the tank of the most ordinary nut. If necessary, the float valve can be swapped and become a plug.

The most complex part of the flush tank is considered to be a float valve made in conjunction with a float. Several variants of valve manufacturing are known:

  • adjustable;
  • unregulated.

In any case, its main task is to automatically close the water supply to the drain tank when the required level reaches a critical level.

Dual-mode devices are widespread today. They make it possible to regulate the water flow in the cistern. To remove the top cover in these designs, you must first remove the drain button.

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Drainage system

When buying a toilet, you must first familiarize yourself with the existing neck. The future design of the entire sewer system and the normal operation of the toilet depend on it.

The neck can be of several types:

  • vertical;
  • horizontal;
  • corner.

The specialist who will install the toilet will tell you which model you need to purchase.

Installation will be the main criterion. The main difficulty will be the laid communications.