What to do before painting the walls. How to make the perfect wall for further painting: how to prepare, the order of work with your own hands and guidance on what to do

At one time, painted surfaces were associated with eerie curved walls, covered with a layer of a gloomy shade of oil paint. They looked equally unpleasant both in apartments and in living quarters. The apartment owners tried by any means to get rid of this "beauty", gluing wallpaper and foam on the dirty green and poisonous blue surfaces, and especially skillful ones simply stuffed the lining on them. Then, already in the early nineties, when building materials unseen before and unknown to Soviet people began to appear in stores, many began to paint the walls with water-based paint of different colors. It was fashionable and prestigious, almost every second person believed that only such a decoration would make the interior of an apartment or house richer. True, such a question as competent preparation of walls for painting with water-based paint was not particularly considered. And therefore, the result was not always the way one wanted it. And gradually they began to abandon this type of decoration, especially since previously unseen vinyl and non-woven wallpapers of extraordinary beauty and outlandish colors appeared on store shelves. Strictly speaking, why is this small excursion? And to the fact that at the moment, coloring is becoming popular again. Moreover, in a completely different form, as it is carried out using the latest materials and modern technologies. And if it is planned to carry out this type of finishing work in the room, surface preparation is the main and defining stage. And it is to this process that the entire subsequent text will be devoted. We will try to tell you in as much detail as possible about what the procedure of work is, all the nuances of their implementation and useful advice from specialists - read about all this below.

Types of surfaces to be painted

So what kind of walls can be finished in this way? In principle, almost any. But, from a professional point of view, at the moment it is advisable to paint: putty or well-plastered surfaces, a base made of glass fiber intended for this material, etc.), textured and embossed plaster, drywall, prepared accordingly.

Depending on which surface will be finished, the walls are being prepared for painting. Some stages are characteristic for each type of work, and some in one case or another either are not applied at all, or are combined with each other.

The procedure for preparing walls for painting

This is usually a step-by-step process. First, the surface must be prepared. Then level it - either with plaster or drywall. After that, the finishing is carried out either with putty or decorative plaster. There is also such an option as a sticker on the already plastered walls of wallpaper for painting or fiberglass. Both of these procedures also apply to finishing. Further - in detail about what constitutes the preparation of walls before painting in each case.

Let's start with the preparatory procedures, which, as a rule, are practically the same in all cases.

Preliminary work

Preparing walls for painting requires a very careful approach. And it is necessary to approach the issue with all responsibility, because the final result completely depends on this. So, the walls must first of all be cleaned of old types of finishes. If this is wallpaper, you need to remove it, and completely. If it is oil paint and water-based paint, you also need to get rid of it, not to mention whitewashing. After that, you need to conduct a thorough revision of the walls. First of all, check their integrity. If they were previously plastered, the mortar layer is strong and adheres well to the wall - excellent. If there are places where he literally walks, they must be cleaned, and the defects must be repaired with fresh solution. If more than 40 percent of the surface is damaged, it is recommended not to trivialize and completely remove all old plaster from the wall.

Once you think you end up with a solid foundation, you can start priming it.

Small digression

An interesting feature of the repair work is that sometimes the preparation process takes almost more time than the entire subsequent procedure.Sometimes paper wallpaper has to be removed from some walls literally by a millimeter, and what can we say about how difficult the procedure for removing oil paint is. Therefore, before continuing the conversation about how the preparation of the walls for painting is carried out after the preparatory stage, we want to give a few tips from experienced craftsmen. Perhaps they will help someone get through the dirty and hard work faster.

How to remove wallpaper

Never remove old wallpaper, unless, of course, they themselves do not fall off the wall, in a dry state. When the paper is firmly adhered to the plaster, it can sometimes only be removed together with the base base itself. Therefore, arm yourself with a bucket of warm water and a brush (not a roller!) And start wetting the wall. And not once or twice, but literally almost every 15 minutes. Trust me - your hard work will be rewarded. At some point, the wallpaper will begin to bubble and lag behind the wall. You just have to help them a little in this.

How to get rid of paint

It is inappropriate to try to remove paint from the wall with a small spatula. It is better to immediately take a drill with an attachment created specifically for these purposes and work with this tool. The only thing you can try is to remove not quite high-quality water-based paint with a sponge moistened with water. However, if you have to prepare large surfaces, then you can imagine how many walls you will have to wash.

Competent priming

Never apply, despite the advice of some, roller primer. At the same time, most of it will be on the floor, which, by the way, will be quite difficult to clean from the dried composition later. The best option is a spray gun, at least portable. If not, work with a brush. This is the only way you can really prepare the base with high quality and ensure the penetration of the primer into its inner layers.

Next stage

If the original wall is flat, the plaster is preserved on it, the defects are repaired, you can proceed to the finishing. What it will be - puttying or covering the surface with decorative plaster - depends on the type of work chosen. In any case, even walls can already be prepared for painting. It's another matter if they are so crooked that it is almost impossible to cope with them. In this case, it is more advisable to pay attention to drywall. It can be used to level the surface quite simply and quickly. True, then it will also have to be prepared for staining, but we will talk about this below.

If you have removed all the old plaster, and there is a bare concrete or brick wall in front of you, you will have to level it with plaster mortar using beacons. This is the most effective method that allows you to end up with a truly flat surface.

If drywall was chosen

We will not talk about how to mount the gypsum board on the walls. This is not our task. But it is imperative to say a few words about what constitutes the preparation of drywall walls for painting. The thing is that neither wallpaper nor the coloring composition is applied directly to the gypsum board. They must be putty beforehand, thoroughly cleaned and primed, and only then painted.

Putty process

Perhaps this is the most difficult procedure that needs to be carried out by the master who prepares the walls for painting. The fact is that the surface should not only be flat, but also perfectly smooth. The slightest defect, the smallest scratch, will be visible after the paint has dried. And to achieve this, the procedure must be carried out in two stages. First, a rough layer is applied, the first. After it is thoroughly dry, you should walk over it with a mesh or sandpaper to smooth out all the irregularities. After that, prime thoroughly and wait until dry again. And only then apply a thin finishing layer of putty, which will completely cover the existing defects. In the same case, if there are any minor irregularities, they can be carefully covered, then again cleaned the entire surface and primed. After that, a day later, it is allowed to start staining.

Nuances

If the walls are being prepared for wallpaper for painting, then in this case it makes no sense to achieve an ideal surface. Yes, it should be even, fairly smooth, but it may have minor defects. The main thing is to get a really solid foundation. Themselves the wallpaper for painting, as a rule, is always corrugated, and therefore all kinds of scratches will simply hide under them. The only rule that must be observed is that during the puttying it is not recommended to leave areas with a thin layer of putty through which the plaster is visible. The entire process must be carried out with the same care that requires preparing walls for painting without wallpaper. You just don't have to dwell on minor defects. They will not be visible. Otherwise, there are no differences. The finishing putty is cleaned and primed. After it dries, you can start gluing the wallpaper. They are allowed to paint no earlier than at least four days after pasting. Give them time to dry. Otherwise, as a result, under the influence of paint, they will begin to get wet and peel off the wall.

There is another issue that cannot be ignored when it comes to the use of a material such as fiberglass. Professionals call it a painting fiberglass. About him - further.

Fiberglass

What is it for? And in order to make the surface perfectly smooth and protect it from cracks. And then the walls covered with painting fiberglass will delight you for a long time with a magnificent appearance, since they are not afraid of any shrinkage and temperature drops, because all defects that appear on the surface will be hidden under the fiberglass. By the way, the latter is both corrugated and thick enough, and very thin, literally translucent canvas. It is also called a cobweb. It is this variety that is most popular, since, firstly, such fiberglass costs literally a penny, and secondly, it is easier to work with it.

And a few words about the process itself. First, the wall is putty. It is enough to apply only one, rough layer. Then it must be cleaned and primed. And stick the spider web on special glue. You can also take a composition for non-woven wallpaper. After drying, the fiberglass is putty again in a very thin layer, and this procedure is very simple and quick. After priming, you can

And about textured plaster

If the walls are being prepared for painting on decorative plaster, then such a procedure as puttying is not required at all. The textured mortar is applied directly to the prepared rough base, after drying it is primed and then painted.

Probably one of the most enjoyable stages in the renovation process at home is the process of painting a room. When the walls are leveled, for example with gypsum plasterboards, covered with a primer and a layer of starting and finishing putty, the room is already pleasing to the eye. The walls have clearly changed, the corners are even, the surface is smooth. The next step will be the choice of further finishes. Consider how walls are painted with water-based paint with a roller or spray gun.

The choice of wall decoration in favor of using painting opens up a number of additional possibilities and advantages:

• The dyeing process itself does not require special skills in construction, there will be no need to dock wallpaper or, say, put plastic on a level, it is enough to have patience and be diligent.
• All kinds of design solutions, the addition of dyes makes it possible to independently choose a color and shade according to your taste. Drawing ability will help you make any pattern, ornament, decor or drawing on the wall.
• Modern paints are made using the latest technologies, they are safe for human health, dry quickly, some manufacturers add special components to the paint composition that fight fungus.
• The paint is easy to clean, some formulations are abrasion resistant up to a thousand times.
• The ability to create any texture, paint with the addition of special pigments, for example, with the effect of marble, at first glance it is not always possible to distinguish a simple painting from decorative marble. It all depends only on imagination and desire.

For high-quality painting of walls with water-based paint, all stages are important, special attention is paid to checking the surface. On plastered or plastered walls must be flat, the surface cleaned, dry and smooth, without cracks and chips. The detected defects are sealed with a finishing putty and cleaned, this will help to reduce paint consumption.

Next, the surface is primed. Although the paints contain an adhesive base, the primer is necessary to eliminate dust, increase adhesion and a more uniform paint layer. The room is freed up as much as possible, the floor, windows and the remaining objects are covered with a protective film.

Required material and equipment for painting:

• water-based paint in the right amount,
• container for stirring paint,
• rollers from 2 pcs and brushes for tinting,
• tray for paint.

If available, you can use a spray gun with a nozzle diameter of 2 mm or more, otherwise excessive dilution of the water-based paint with water will be required. The spray gun reduces consumption, the paint lays down more evenly, it is convenient when painting corners. The only thing is that not all spray guns work with water-based paints and minimal skills are required, otherwise the paint will flow down the surface.

Water-based paint is mixed, manually or using an electric slow-speed drill with a mixer nozzle, until the same consistency is obtained.

If necessary, it is diluted with water, if a pigment dye is added, then it is stirred until a uniform shade.

Wall covering with paint

• The required amount of paint is poured into the tray, the paint roller is well soaked in the paint from all sides.

• We start painting from the upper corners, rub the paint over the surface as evenly as possible, the layer should be uniform in thickness.
• The corners of the room are brought in with a brush or a narrow roller up to 100 mm wide.
• Apply a uniform layer of paint with smooth movements of the roller, rub the marks left on the edges of the roller until the paint is completely distributed.
• The temperature for painting must not be lower than + 5 ° С.

Little secrets of painting walls with water-based paint

When adding a dye, it must be borne in mind that when it dries, its color may lighten, it is better to apply a small layer on the wall section and, as it dries, determine its proportion in the paint.

For indoor work, it is customary to use interior paint, facade paint is not recommended, arguing for the presence of harmful substances in its composition. After a competent consultation in a building materials store, you can pick up a harmless facade paint and paint it, it has a high viscosity and will give a more saturated color.

A layer of water-based paint dries in about a couple of hours, there should be at least two layers.

As the second layer dries, the need for additional painting of walls or individual areas is determined.

In case the walls are tinted in the future, it is better to leave a certain amount of paint, especially if a dye has been added, since it will be problematic to choose the right shade in the future.

Introduction

1. Paints and varnishes

2. Techniques for performing work when painting

Painting technology

4. Equipment and tools

Conclusion

Literature

Introduction

A good body paintwork not only gives the car a beautiful appearance, but also protects it from corrosion and premature deterioration.

The practice of operating cars in different countries has shown that the most effective ways to combat body corrosion are their high-quality painting and additional anti-corrosion treatment.

The purpose of this work is to describe the painting technology, basic tools and equipment used in this. In addition, it is necessary to indicate a list and a brief description of paints and varnishes, since the quality of coatings depends on this.

paints and varnishes

Paints and varnishes are divided into basic (paints, enamels, primers and putties) and auxiliary (solvents, thinners, removers, preparations for painting, coating care products, etc.)

Distinctive properties of enamels for painting passenger cars are a variety of beautiful colors, increased gloss and preservation of a decorative appearance during long-term use of coatings in various climatic conditions.

When painting bodies of cars for the outer layers of the coating at manufacturing enterprises, mainly synthetic, melamine alkyd and, less often, nitrocellulose enamels are used.

Melamine-alkyd enamels are made on the basis of mixtures of melamine-formaldehyde and alkyd resins. Drying occurs as a result of the evaporation of solvents and the polycondensation of resins.

The enamels are applied by pneumatic spraying in a spray booth, as well as by spraying in an electrostatic field.

Nitrocellulose enamels are suspensions of pigments in nitro lacquers with the addition of plasticizers and resins. Drying occurs at room temperature (18-22 ˚С).

Nitro enamel coatings are relatively resistant to mineral oils, gasoline, and weak alkaline solutions. Nitroenamels are applied using paint sprayers, less often with a brush.

For painting the bodies of cars "Zhiguli", "Moskvich", "Zaporozhets", "Volga" they use enamels of the brands ML-12, ML-197, ML-1110, ML-1121, ML-1198.

2) Primers and rust converters.

Primers are first applied to the surface prepared for painting. They are the bonding coating between the metal and subsequent layers of enamel.

They have increased adhesion (adhesion). Primers can be applied by spray, brush, dipping, electrospray and electrodeposition. Its thickness is 15 ... 20 microns.

Primers are available with inert pigments, passivating, phosphating and protective.

Primers with inert pigments do not interact with the film former and do not protect the surface from corrosion, but mechanically prevent moisture penetration.

Such primers are GF-021, FL-OZK, etc. The first is used for body repair painting.

Passivating primers contain metal chromates or other pigments that react with moisture and passivate the metal.

These include: GF-017, GF-031, etc.

This type of primer is a red lead primer, which is often used to protect underbody and fenders.

Phosphating primers differ in that phosphoric acid is also added to their composition. These primers have good adhesion to ferrous and non-ferrous metals. The best layer thickness of phosphating primers is 8 ... 12 microns. The main components of such primers are a film-forming base and an acidic thinner.

Protective primers protect the metal surface by introducing metal dust into their composition, the potential of which is lower than that of iron (zinc, for example).

These include: PS-1, EP-057, etc.

Primers - rust converters are used to prepare a corroded body surface for painting without removing corrosion products.

These include E-VA-01, E-VA-0112, etc. They are applied at a temperature not lower than 15 ° C by spraying or brushing in 1-2 layers.

3) Putties

Putties are used to eliminate and level out imperfections on the painted surface of the body. They are a pasty composition of varnish (drying oil), pigments and filler (chalk). Putties are applied with a spatula (spatula) when sealing large flaws or in the form of a liquid with a paint sprayer with a large nozzle.

For spraying, it is diluted with thinner.

Putties NTs-007, NTs-008, NTs-009 are intended for leveling primed metal surfaces, as well as for correcting bodies on a revealing layer of enamel.

PF-002 putty is used for general and local puttying in the absence of hot drying of subsequent layers of the coating.

MS-006 putty serves to correct small defects on the primed surface.

Putty paste is prepared in portions before direct use, due to the fast gelatinization and hardening time.

The mass ratio of the semi-finished putty and hardener should be 100: 3.2. The putty has a shelf life of 1 year.

4) Solvents, thinners and washes

They are used to ensure that paints and varnishes have the required working viscosity.

They are one-component organic volatile and colorless liquids or mixtures thereof in various combinations of components.

Washes are used to remove paintwork.

They are mixtures of various solvents, under the influence of which the coating swells, swells and lags behind the metal. The most widely used washes based on organic solvents. The industry produces washes of the brands SD, AFT-1, SP-6, SP-7, SPS-1, SPS-2, SNB-9, "Old paint remover", "Auto wash of old paint", etc.

5) Materials for grinding and polishing

Sanding pads are usually used to smooth out irregularities on the surface of the body.

To find out what the sanding paper is for, what grit is the sanding material and whether it can be used for wet or dry sanding, you need to know the designation of the sanding skins, which is indicated on the non-working side.

An example of the designation of a sanding paper 1820x20 U2G 63S M63 CA GOST 13344-79.

This entry means that it is a waterproof cloth-based skin (GOST 13344-79), made of micro-grinding powder, intended for grinding putties, primers, plastics, enamels, in a roll 1820 mm wide, 20 m long, on fabric - twill (U2G) , from silicon carbide (63 C), from grinding material with a grain size of not more than 63 microns (M 63), fixed with synthetic resin (C), with the number of defects on the working surface not more than 0.5% (A).

Grinding paste VAZ-1 is used for grinding damaged and repaired coatings painted with melamine alkyd enamels.

It is a suspension of alumina in a mixture of mineral and vegetable oils, turpentine, kerosene, surfactants and water.

Apply the paste to a flannel or tsigeyka and grind it by hand or with a grinder.

The composition of polishing pastes is a mixture of fine abrasives, surfactants, solvents, mineral oils, wax and water. Abrasive is needed for polishing, wax - for filling and smoothing microcracks and pores of the coating. Solvents help remove grease stains and other contaminants.

Polishing water is intended for the final finishing of nitro-enamel body coatings and maintaining their shine during vehicle operation.

Techniques for performing work when painting

The service life of the refurbished paintwork depends on the quality of all the work done in the painting process. When preparing the surface of a car for painting, it is very important to carefully perform straightening work on metal, welding, soldering and stripping, i.e. to give the body surface the correct geometric shape.

High-quality leveling work simplifies painting and increases the durability of the restored paintwork.

To carry out the full scope of work on body painting, the following operations are performed:

- prepare the car for painting and purchase the necessary materials;

- prepare the body surface for painting;

- prepare paints and varnishes;

- primer, putty, grind the outer surfaces of the body, apply the first layer of enamel, locally putty and grind;

- apply several layers of enamel;

- dry the coating;

- grind and polish;

- control the quality of painting;

- apply anticorrosive mastics.

1) Preparing the car for painting and purchasing the necessary materials.

Before you start painting, you should purchase materials and equipment.

About 90% of labor costs are for preparatory work and only 10% for painting and drying.

Before proceeding with the restoration of the coating, the car is thoroughly washed.

How to prepare walls for painting

Then, if necessary, a partial disassembly is carried out: remove the decorative parts with an electroplated coating, rubber gaskets, etc. If the body is repainted completely, and drying is performed at an elevated temperature in an oven, then remove the wheels, glass, upholstery, etc.

2) Preparation of the body surface for painting

Preparation of the body surface provides for the following works: removal of old coating and corrosion products, degreasing, phosphating, protection of surfaces that cannot be painted, etc.

Removal of the old coating should be carried out in cases where the body or its individual parts have been repainted several times or have been painted with nitro enamel, as well as in the presence of significant underfilm corrosion damage, swelling of the coating, chips and scratches, etc.

Stages and methods of painting metal structures from professionals

Metal structures are highly durable and resistant to adverse environmental factors.

Despite this, they are also susceptible to destruction and need professional protection. According to experts, the annual damage from corrosion of equipment and metal structures in developed countries reaches 2-4 percent of GDP, which is simply a huge amount.

For this reason, corrosion protection is the most important stage in the processing of metal and alloy products.

How to paint walls with water emulsion

And the appearance has an important function - it attracts attention and creates the first positive impression of the object.

The main method of protection is painting of metal structures quality formulations. Such processing is able to effectively protect the metal from the effects of ultraviolet radiation, moisture, sudden temperature changes that negatively affect the material.

This operation should be performed by professionals who thoroughly know each stage of work, can ensure high quality performance, which will positively affect the durability of structures.

Basic methods of painting metal structures

The most common treatment is the use of a high pressure washer (HPA), which achieves a perfect surface. Sometimes its use is impossible for a number of reasons, and then the process takes place using the manual method - rollers and brushes.

Painting metal structures with any of these options will reduce the risk of corrosion, make them durable and attractive in appearance. But this is true only when the work is performed by high-class specialists.

Stages of the procedure for painting metal structures from professionals

• Old paint is completely removed from the surface (if the object was previously processed).

  This is done with metal brushes and power tools. If it is necessary to process a large area, it is possible to use the sandblasting method.

• Surface grinding. It is carried out using abrasive elements and a special electric tool. It is very important to follow the technology - gradually reduce the grit size of the emery belt or discs.
• Rust removal and anti-corrosion treatment.

  For these procedures, special formulations are used, which are applied using AED, brushes and rollers.

• Dedusting of metal structures... Special cleaning solutions from well-known world brands are used to prevent dust from entering the surface in the future.
• Degreasing. Compositions are used that prepare the surface for further application of the primer. Most often, a universal degreaser is used for these purposes.
• Primer.

  This stage prevents the appearance of rust, prepares the substrate for further application of paint, which will have better adhesion to the surface, which will increase the service life of the structure.

• Paint application. Most often it is performed in several layers, where each subsequent one fixes the previous one. After competently performed work, the result is an ideal result.

A professional approach to painting metal structures allows you to achieve a long service life, reduce the cost of repairing individual elements that become unusable due to corrosion, get an attractive appearance of any infrastructure object - a crane, a bridge, a staircase, a roof, a high-voltage tower, an advertising structure, etc.

It is possible to use the method of industrial mountaineering, which will save money on the services of special equipment.

Features of preparing walls for painting

Polyvinyl acetate water-based paints VA-17, VA-27, VA-27PG and styrene-butadiene paints KCh-26A, KCh-26 are widely used for interior painting on wood, plaster, cardboard and other porous materials, on a primed metal surface, as well as on old durable oil coatings, enamel and emulsion paints.

Preparation of surfaces for painting with water-based paints

Old surfaces previously painted with lime and glue paints must be completely free of paint layers.

To do this, the surface is moistened with water and the soaked paint layer is cleaned off with steel scrapers.

With the old oil, as well as polyvinyl acetate and styrene-butadiene paint, only the fragile and lagging paint coating is removed. Strong paint can be washed to remove contamination with warm soapy or ammonia water, and then with clean water. Only hairline cracks can be left on cleaned surfaces, which can be sealed with putty.

Deeper cracks require compulsory jointing and sealing with mortar, so that in these places there is no rupture of the filler and paint layers with subsequent delamination.

Plastered surfaces before painting are leveled with putty on a previously primed surface.

Under the glue-oil putty, polyvinyl acetate paint diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio is used as a primer; when using a polyvinyl acetate or cement-chalk putty, no priming is performed, and the surface is abundantly wetted with water.

The surface is putty after the primer layer has dried, while, in order to prevent cracking of the putty, it must be completely applied in layers no more than 0.5 mm thick, and each subsequent layer can be applied after the previous one has dried.

After the putty has dried, the surface is cleaned with a pumice stone or emery cloth.

It should be borne in mind that on surfaces previously primed with vitriol, after painting with polyvinyl acetate and butadiene styrene water-based paints, dark spots are obtained. To check the presence of vitriol soil, a test painting is performed. If dark spots appear on the painted surface, it is primed with oil paint in the color of the color scheme, and then, after the oil primer layer has dried, water-based paint is applied over it.

Sheet dry plaster in the presence of small depressions and potholes on it is leveled with lime-gypsum putty.

Before painting, old gypsum parts are cleaned of old paint layers, dust and dirt.

Old wooden surfaces, previously painted with oil or synthetic paints, are cleaned only of fragile paint, primed with paint diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio, and after the priming layer has dried, the surface is completely putty with glue-oil putty.

Preparation of new wood surfaces is carried out as usual.

Cracks and crevices should be smoothed out with a lubricant and drying oil, and after the primer has dried, they should be completely covered with glue-oil putty.

Painting with water-based paints

Before use water-based paints must be thoroughly mixed and filtered through a fine sieve. For better adhesion of the paint layer, plastered surfaces of plaster and wood, as well as gypsum parts and dry plaster, are painted with paint diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio.

Then it is painted twice with ordinary undiluted paint.

To obtain a lasting color, each subsequent layer of paint should be applied after the previous layer has completely dried. Drying time of each layer is 2-3 hours. For uniform coloring, it is recommended to apply paint surfaces with rollers or paint spray guns. It is allowed to apply paints with hand-held brushes, but it should be remembered that brushes give a noticeable streak, therefore, painting with brushes is done with fluting or facing.

Since dried polyvinyl acetate water-based paint cannot be washed off with water and is difficult to remove with solvents, it is necessary to place brushes, rollers and pistols in a container with water during breaks in work, and immediately rinse all tools and accessories thoroughly with water after finishing work.

Any paint that gets on the glass during operation should also be washed off immediately with water or wiped off with a wet cloth. If necessary, dried paints can be removed: polyvinyl acetate - with acetone, and styrene-butadiene - with turpentine.

The consumption of polyvinyl acetate water-based paints per 1 m2 of the painted surface is: with a simple color 270-320 g, with an improved one - 350-400 g.

Where to buy "Painting with water-based paints"?

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Painting walls or ceilings is one of the types of finishing of the premises of the house, which is usually performed after the completion of the main construction work and the installation of all communications. Painting can be done with your own hands, and in order to do it correctly, you can use the information in this article.

> Surface preparation;

> Sequence of work and tools;

> The correct choice of color;

Preparation of walls (ceiling) before painting

Before painting walls or ceilings, as a rule, they are leveled (using plaster or drywall), putty and primer.

The higher the requirements for the quality of painting the walls, the more thoroughly the walls must be prepared. For example, in wooden houses made of logs or timber, the walls on the inside are best leveled with drywall before painting, putty with finishing compound and primed.

The same applies to plastered walls made of other materials.

The primer is usually liquid, it is bought ready-made or prepared by yourself. When priming, all small pores in the plaster or other painted surface are filled with a liquid solution.

Putty on wall and ceiling surfaces before painting

With the help of putty, the surface of the walls and ceiling is leveled, preparing them for painting.

The putty composition is starting and finishing. It can also be purchased ready-to-use or made by yourself from a dry mix.

The putty is applied in strips or by mutually perpendicular movements of the spatula, in two layers.

The first layer is the starting layer, when the putty or, more correctly, the putty fills in all the irregularities.

It is allowed to dry, and then sanded with coarse, medium-grained sandpaper. The second layer is the finishing one, after drying it is sanded with fine-grained emery paper.

Required tools and work sequence

If you decide to paint the ceiling and walls, then paint should be started from the ceiling and upper parts of the walls. It is better to do this work together: one paints, and the other does auxiliary work.
To perform painting, you can use various tools, depending on the required level of quality of work and the availability of the tools themselves.

Wall painting can be done with a brush, roller or spray.

Performing painting with each of these tools has its own characteristics, which will be discussed below:

1. Spray painting of walls and ceilings.

   Painting walls with water-based paint

   Spray paints evenly, holding the spray gun at the same distance from the wall to be painted (250-300 mm) and strictly perpendicular to it. On the line of joints with an already painted surface or ceiling, a plywood shield, a diverter ruler is used, or a special masking tape is glued in order to prevent paint compounds from getting on them.

2. With a brush.

   When painting walls or other surfaces with a brush, it should be driven in one place no more than two times. Paint is collected only on the edge of the brush. With an excess of paint, its smudges are possible, and with a shortage, you have to rub the paint strongly into the surface, as a result of which stripes appear on it.

3. This fully applies to painting the walls with a roller.

   For convenience, the paint is poured into a special container with a flat bottom.

General rules for painting walls and ceilings with your own hands

• It is advisable to finish painting the walls of the room in one color in one day.
• The application of layers of paint should be such that painting is done by light.
• If the wall is going to be painted in one step, then its surface is usually painted from top to bottom, and when painting in two steps, first the wall is painted in the horizontal direction (from left to right), and then in the vertical direction - from top to bottom.

Choosing the right color

When painting the walls of premises, the choice of a suitable color is not the last thing.

When choosing a color for painting walls, one should take into account the orientation of the rooms to the cardinal points, their sizes. An important role in choosing the color of painting the walls is played by the purpose of the rooms, the presence and color of furniture, the color of the curtains.

South-facing rooms are best painted in colder colors.

For rooms facing north, warmer colors are recommended.

Related Videos

Below you can watch a video on how you can paint the ceiling with your own hands:

This material is often read:

How to decorate the ceiling in the bathroom with your own hands

Base coat application

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Before opening the can of primer, dust it off.

Dilute with the supplied hardener. Take the proportion of the mixture that is recommended in the manufacturer's instructions.

Please note that the primer diluted with hardener must be used within three to four hours, so choose the amount of material in advance. For example, a car fender needs about 150 grams of soil.

After pouring the prepared mixture into the spray gun, adjust the torch of the apparatus on some piece of sheet material.

Pull the tool trigger quickly. The result should be a spot in the form of a vertically elongated oval. The shape of the spot can be adjusted with the side handle of the spray gun, the amount of the outgoing composition changes at the end of the gun.

Start priming from the edge of the body and gradually move forward.

Please note that the speed of movement of the tool should be the same, direct it at an angle of 45-60 ° in the direction of the still unprimed surface of the car.

Overlap the layers by half, in other words, ½ of the painted strip is re-treated with soil during further manipulations.

If there are small unpainted areas, do not go back there, cover them with a second primer coat. It is applied after 10-15 minutes. The optimal number of layers is 2-3, it is not recommended to apply more, as the material may shrink.

If all the preparatory work has been completed successfully, and the surface of the car has become smooth, proceed with the finishing painting.

But before that, the primed body must dry well. If drying occurs at a natural temperature regime, then it takes at least one day.

The correct technology of painting the machine assumes that the primed surface must be covered with emery cloth №№Р800-Р1000. Then go over it with gray tape-bright to reduce the risks.

Finally, degrease the prepared body with a napkin dipped in anti-silicone.

After it dries, wipe the car from the stuck dust with a damp cloth.

Painting process - finishing layers

Prepare paint for work. Add the hardener to it in the ratio indicated in the instructions on the package, as well as the solvent to the desired consistency.

After you mix the composition well, pass it through a funnel with a sieve and pour it into the spray gun.

Apply the first finishing coat thinly.

Wait 15-20 minutes and spray the second coat. It should be tight enough. The main thing here is a sense of proportion, on the one hand, the surface should be painted completely, on the other, there is a danger of getting smudges.

If they do occur, then they can be removed when the paint dries.

After the second coat has been sprayed, wait for it to dry. On average, this is 15-20 minutes, but much here depends on the temperature in the room and on the quality of the solvent.

Auto fender varnishing

The third layer is made more liquid, which is necessary to create gloss.

These are all stages of work when painting a car with acrylic. If metallic is applied, then, as the car painting technology shows: video, you will need to cover the body with several more layers of varnish, usually two or three.

In fact, varnish is the same paint, but its polymer composition does not include pigments. Therefore, the techniques for their application are approximately the same. After waiting for the allotted time, while the last coat of paint dries, apply the first (do not forget, thin) coat of varnish.

After it's dry, spray on a thinner second coat.

Apply a third coat if necessary.

It often happens that after spraying varnish, defective areas of the paintwork remain on the surface of the body. Such damage: shagreen, smudges, adhering particles of dust and dirt, you can remove during the subsequent polishing of the car.

Tasks.

How the walls are prepared for painting: the order of work

Carry out repair painting of a car body part.

The report should contain operations for carrying out repair painting of a car body part.

Control questions.

What types of bodies are there?

2. What methods are used to correct defects in the paintwork of car body parts?

3. What types of paints and varnishes do you know?

Main sources:

Regulations:

GOST R 51709-2001 (as amended in 2007) “Motor vehicles. Safety Requirements for Technical Condition and Test Methods ”.

2. Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of 11.04.2001 No. 290 "On approval of the rules for the provision of services (performance of work) for the maintenance and repair of motor vehicles" (as amended by

Resolutions of the Government of the Russian Federation of January 23, 2007 No. 43).

3. Federal Law "On licensing certain types of activities" dated 08.08.2001 No. FZ-128 (as amended on 29.10.2010 with amendments and additions that entered into force on 01.01.2011)

Educational literature:

1. Vlasov, V. M. Maintenance and repair of cars [Text]: a textbook for use in the educational process of educational institutions that implement programs of secondary vocational education.

- 8th ed .; stereotype. - M .: Academy, 2013.

2. Vinogradov, V. M... Technological processes of car repair: a textbook for use in the educational process of educational institutions implementing programs of secondary vocational education. - 4th ed .; revised - M .: Academy, 2011.

3. Vinogradov, V. M... Technological processes of car repair [Text]: a textbook for use in the educational process of educational institutions implementing programs of secondary vocational education. - 6th ed .; revised

- M .: Academy, 2013.

Additional sources:

1. Kirichenko, N.B. Automotive operational materials [Text]: a textbook for students of institutions of environments.

Prof. education of students in the specialties "Maintenance and repair of road transport", "Mechanization of agriculture." -7th ed .; erased. - M .: Academy, 2011

2. Turevsky, I. S. Car maintenance and repair. Introduction to the specialty [Text]: a textbook for students of secondary prof.

education, training. by spec. 1705 Maintenance and repair of motor vehicles. - M .: FORUM; INFRA-M, 2009.

3. Gelenov, A.A. Automotive operational materials [Text]: a textbook for students of institutions of speed.

professional education .-: M .: Academy, 2010

1 Internet version of the magazine "Behind the wheel" [Electronic resource]. - Access mode: http://www.zr.ru, free.

- Title from the screen

2 Repair, maintenance, operation of cars [Electronic resource]. - Access mode: http://www.autoprospect.ru, free. - Title from the screen

3 Internet magazine [Electronic resource]. - Access mode: http://www.drive.ru, free.

- Title from the screen

4 Library of the motorist [Electronic resource]. - Access mode: http://www.viamobile.ru/index.php, free. - Title off screen

Electronic library "Rukont"

1. Strekalovskaya, A.D. Repair and maintenance of engines and generators: guidelines for practical work / A.D.

Strekalovskaya, A.V. Rachinskikh, T.A. Saneeva; Orenburg state un-t. - Orenburg: OSU, 2011 .-- 32 p.

2. A. A. Gladkiy G52 Do-it-yourself car maintenance and minor repairs. A guide for beginners. - SPb .: BHV-Petersburg, 2011 .-- 208 p .: ill. - (Autocourse)

3. Guskov, Yu.V. Operational materials: guidelines for the study of the discipline and assignments for the test / Yu.V.

Guskov, A.P. Ukhanov, O.A. Tsarev. - Penza: RIO PGSKhA, 2012 .-- 90 p.

Annex 1

Ministry of Agriculture of the Russian Federation

Federal State Budgetary Educational

institution of higher professional education

Ryazan State Agrotechnological University

named after P.A.Kostychev "

Faculty of pre-university training and secondary vocational education

Department of "Technical operation of transport"

Study Practice Report

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Insofar as paint does not perform reinforcing functions, and does not hide visible imperfections on the walls, it is necessary to prepare the surface in advance.

The result of painting will be excellent only if the wall is properly prepared.

The technology of preparing walls for painting will be discussed.

Types of surfaces for painting

Since it is not always possible to find concrete walls in modern interiors, it is extremely important to navigate what procedures are intended for the preparation of other surfaces. For example, plasterboard or wooden partitions are often erected in rooms, and the principle of preparing such surfaces for painting is slightly different from the standard procedure.

As for the walls themselves, depending on their appearance, you can highlight several options for painting the surface:

• smooth wall, leveled with putty or plaster;
• surface with embossed plaster;
• facing materials with an even outer layer;
• embossed cladding.

Since the painting process itself in this case will be different, each of these surfaces is prepared differently... However, preparing walls for painting involves leveling and filling the walls - these are two standard procedures common to any type of surface. Let's see how this is done.

Features of the wall alignment process

Even if you do not observe visible irregularities on the surface of the wall, you should not neglect such procedures: perhaps when painting the walls in a different color, such flaws will become apparent and it will be too late to fix it. If you do not want to redo such work several times, it is better from the very beginning. carefully level the surface using one of these methods:

• surface grinding;
• using plaster;
• creating a flat surface of drywall.

Attention! Do not forget to get rid of old finishing materials before leveling to create the best effect.

The first option can be used when preparing concrete walls for painting: in the event that a concrete wall or a plastered surface is highly durable and does not have significant defects or damage. Get rid of the old liner and plaster layer using sandpaper or a special sanding block.

Remember! If the wall covering is old enough, it is necessary to treat the surface with an antiseptic and prime it.

Minor irregularities and damage associated with dampness or fungus, it is necessary clean and plaster... After all the leveling work has been carried out, make sure that the level difference does not exceed 2 mm. Then you can proceed to the next stage of wall preparation - putty.

Sometimes drops or irregularities are still striking, in addition, there may be cases when old plaster peeled off the surface. Under such conditions, the most correct way to prepare the wall can be considered complex replacement of plaster or surface cladding with gypsum plasterboards.

When choosing the appropriate option, focus on the conditions of the room (for example, humidity), on your own preferences and financial capabilities. In order to implement such methods, you must completely get rid of the old coating- and start creating a new leveled surface.

Smooth walls are primed, after which they must dry completely(as a rule, it takes about 5-6 hours). It is advisable to wait until it is completely dry, since additional difficulties may arise during further processing of a wet surface.

Subsequent procedures

After the wall is leveled, you can proceed to the next stage of surface preparation, namely - to cover with starting putty... This procedure is carried out because practically all types of surfaces are unsuitable for painting without creating an additional layer of putty... As a rule, they are able to absorb moisture or have a porous surface, so the paint will lay down unevenly, leaving ugly stains that spoil the appearance of the wall.

A putty that can solve this problem is made from fine sand, so you can apply it in a wide enough layer(3-4 mm) and do not be afraid that cracks will form on such a surface.

Such a mixture is applied with a wide spatula (about 60-80 cm), and with the help of a small spatula (20-25 cm), small irregularities and the solution itself can be smoothed out. note that it is necessary to dilute the putty before use in the proportions indicated on the package... Typically, the putty hardens after 45 minutes.

Advice: when puttingty the surface for painting, you can use a special reinforcing net with small cells of 2 mm. It is attached to the applied layer of putty, and from above it is processed with such a mixture again.

Quite often, in the process of applying the putty, attention is paid to small stripes that remain at the edges of the spatula. You should not try to completely smooth them out, the main thing is make sure that there are no depressions or areas without mortar on the surface... Small bumps can be removed before the last coat of putty is applied.

Besides, a common mistake is trying to apply a small amount of solution... Applying the mortar only to the center of the trowel and smoothing it thoroughly to create a very thin layer will not achieve the desired result. You can avoid all these mistakes by gaining experience.

After the putty is dry (6-8 hours), you can grind the surface... This can be done with abrasive mesh with grit 120 The use of such a mesh helps to get rid of visible irregularities and imperfections. However, due to the graininess, you will have to re-treat the surface applying a finishing putty.

Since the finishing putty does not include sand and other grainy materials, you you can get a perfectly flat surface... And since the paint will not be absorbed into such a layer, you will get the desired and lasting color.

The finishing putty is applied in the same way as the starting putty, but it is advisable not to make too large a layer (a layer up to 1.5-2 mm), since such a surface may crack. After applying the finishing putty sand the wall again using an abrasive mesh with a grain size of 60-80.

Attention! Do not sand the wall too thoroughly, otherwise you may comb off the entire applied layer of putty and not achieve the desired result.

If necessary, you you can apply several layers, but it should only be done if when one layer did not give the desired effect... Checking the wall for readiness for painting is carried out using a lamp. At an oblique angle, you can see all surface defects that are removed by grinding.

After sanding the wall is cleared of dust and residues of used materials. For these purposes, you can take a dry cloth or use a vacuum cleaner.

Remember! Do not wipe off the dust with damp rags, otherwise you can ruin the surface, and the preparatory work will have to be redone.

After cleaning, the wall is primed... This is the last stage of surface preparation, therefore then you can safely start painting the wall.

If you are going to paint wood, pre-grind it and treat it with special solutions that will protect the surface from damage and negative influences. The embossed surface is prepared for painting with a primer... Wallpaper can be treated with adhesive, and plaster can be treated with special types of primer that penetrate deeply into the surface.

The process of preparing the wall can take quite a long time, but this is more a plus than a minus, since the final result will depend on your accuracy... If you doubt that you can do it on your own, you will probably be interested to know the cost of preparing walls for painting: the price of the work of specialists will be on average 450-600 rubles per 1 sq. m (without plastering). By the way, for plastering the walls with a layer of 20 mm, you will have to pay another 250 rubles - for each square meter.

Watch a detailed video on preparing walls for painting:

There is nothing complicated in the procedures for preparing for painting, and the saturation and brightness of the wall color will be proof that you have wasted your time.

The procedure for preparing walls for painting consists in a set of measures that must be performed to obtain a flat surface. Absolutely any basis has drawbacks that need to be eliminated. If you remove the old wallpaper, then cracks and shedding will be found behind them.

Painted surfaces need to be completely cleaned, otherwise the new layer will not be able to adhere well. Brick coatings with numerous seams can also be painted. Therefore, the preparatory work will depend on many factors.

All work should start with the preparation of the necessary tools, and the preparation of walls for painting is no exception. The list of everything you need depends on what basis you have to deal with. But there is a general list:

• Surfaces covered with plaster, which has been applied for a long time or has numerous irregularities, must be completely cleaned. Plastered walls, for example, in recently commissioned apartment buildings, may only need to be adjusted. But this can be difficult for those who do not have the proper experience. For work you will need:
  • a perforator with a special nozzle, but you can get by with a chisel and a hammer;
  • a sander, a sanding bar and sandpaper with a different fraction;
  • brushes or a vacuum cleaner to completely remove dust after sanding.

  Tools and consumables needed to remove the plaster layer

• Ceramic tile cladding assumes that the same tools will be used for the work as for the plastered walls.
• The situation is more complicated with old paint. Special solutions used to remove such materials will help to simplify the work. But you will also need tools: a scraper, a spatula, a hair dryer and an electric drill with a metal brush attachment.

  

• It is a mistake to think that the preparation of a whitewashed surface for painting is optional. Such a coating must certainly be completely removed. Therefore, you need to prepare a sponge and a spray bottle to remove the main part and a spatula to remove the remaining areas.

  Tools needed to wash and completely remove whitewash

• Removing the wallpaper is much easier, but sometimes problems arise due to too strong fixation. In this case, the easiest way is to use a spray bottle and a spatula; well-adhered areas can be removed with a steamer. Thick coatings are processed with a needle roller, which helps the water to penetrate better.

  

After the surfaces have been thoroughly cleaned of all layers, they must be brought to perfect condition. The paint does not forgive even the smallest flaws, they will immediately become noticeable, this will ruin the expected result.

To bring the base to the desired state, you will need adaptations:

1. A container and a special mixer or drill with the necessary attachment for mixing the starting and finishing solution.
2. A set of spatulas and it would be good to purchase a rule to avoid long sanding of small irregularities.
3. Roller or brush for applying the primer.
4. Electric sander and sandpaper bar.

Tool required to prepare walls for painting

How to clean the walls before painting

Initially, you should carefully familiarize yourself with the surfaces. This will help you choose the right general algorithm of work and save time on preparing unnecessary tools. Many craftsmen rightly recommend starting any work by removing shelves, light sources and other interfering decor details.

You will need free access to all areas, so the furniture needs to be pushed aside or taken out. To prevent it from getting dirty, it is worth covering it with plastic wrap.

The technology of preparing any walls for painting implies the presence of dust, so it is better to carry out work in special protective equipment that will help protect your eyes and respiratory tract from negative effects.

Removing wallpaper

Wallpaper sometimes has to be pretty tricky, but preparing the walls for painting requires that the base is completely cleaned.

Very old products with a paper backing are removed rather quickly. To do this, it is enough to pry the bottom edge with a spatula or knife, and it will quickly lag behind the surface.

To remove old paper wallpaper, it may be enough to pry the edge of the canvas with a spatula, after which the wallpaper can be easily torn off the wall

But it happens that the coating adheres very well to the base. Then a simple home spray comes to the rescue. Warm water is taken into it (it is it that soaks the paper most quickly) and sprayed over the entire surface. After a while, you can quickly remove everything that did not leave before.

Modern vinyl and non-woven wallpapers are highly moisture resistant. This leads to the fact that the decorative layer cannot be removed, even using your described tricks. Then a toothed roller comes to the rescue, which can be successfully replaced with a simple clerical knife. It is necessary to severely damage the surface to ensure free access of moisture.

Sometimes the pinion option can be useless. Then you need a steamer, with the help of it it is possible to clean the most problematic areas.

Advice! The steamer can be replaced with a hair dryer, which heats the wetted area. If there is no hair dryer, you will need to painstakingly clean everything with a knife and spatula. Only in this way the preparation for painting with your own hands will be of the highest quality.

It is important to ensure that there is no wallpaper or glue residue. If it is supposed to remove all layers to the base, then you can simply knock everything down at once along with the plaster.

Preparing to paint surfaces that have been whitewashed is one of the most tedious procedures. The fact is that you need to shoot literally everything to the very foundation. If even the smallest blotches remain on the walls, then the subsequent finishing layer will turn out to be uneven, with numerous pellets.

The following methods will help to perform this work in the best quality:

1. The most common option is warm water. This method almost completely repeats the technology with wallpaper: the surface is carefully sprayed with a spray gun, and then the old layer is lifted with a spatula. Only wetting must be carried out constantly, because the whitewash quickly absorbs moisture.
   Some masters advise washing off the coating with plenty of water. This works, but only on surfaces coated with a simple compound, without the addition of special additives and hardeners.
2. Some areas will require the use of a sander, putty knife and iron brush without the use of water. This process is complicated by the fact that a lot of suspension is formed, which completely fills the room. Operation must be interrupted to allow dust to settle. It is believed that a vacuum cleaner connected to most grinders will help correct the situation. In fact, only a special device that has many filters, including water filters, can cope with such a task.
3. To simplify the preparation of the whitewashed surface for painting, there are special compositions that allow you to quickly clean the walls. Home craftsmen have developed a simple recipe for such a remedy. It includes soda (5 tbsp. L), grated laundry soap (2 tbsp. L) and water (10 l). The solution is mixed well and coated. Removal takes place with a sponge and a spatula.

Thus, the procedure will require sufficient effort and will lead to serious contamination. And if the work is done poorly, the result will be an ugly painted surface.

Old paint is removed in a similar way. But only special formulations are used for work. Of course, you can apply a new layer of paint to the old one, but no one will give a guarantee of a good result in this case.

Advice! It is the previously painted areas that are easily cleaned with a building hair dryer. The technology lies in the fact that by blowing the selected area, the bubbling layer is immediately removed.

Removing plaster or tiles

When deciding how to prepare walls for painting, if it has been plastered or tiled, you need to carefully evaluate the existing coating. The fact is that it is not always necessary to remove the old layer of plaster, sometimes it is enough to close up cracks and eliminate irregularities. But the presence of crumbling areas is a sure sign that the layer needs to be completely changed. Always remove ceramic tiles together with a layer of fixing compound.

The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

• The main parts of the crumbling areas are removed with a spatula. The main thing is to choose a thicker tool to avoid deformation.
• Often problems arise with a layer of finishing putty. It has voids, that is, there is no fixation with plaster. Due to the fact that the putty is applied quite thinly, it is removed after being moistened with water.
• Removing all of the coating creates problems with well-adhered seams, but should not be left if the majority has been removed. After all, the preparation of a plastered surface for painting assumes that each area will be held securely.
• Tiled walls will take longer. The ceramics are preliminarily removed. In this case, a perforator with a chisel attachment has proven itself perfectly. It is necessary to completely remove the fixing compound, which can hold very well. After that, you should evaluate the base, especially if it is made of plaster. The presence of any defects is an excuse to clean everything to the ground.

Removal of ceramic tiles is carried out together with the fixing layer.

On a note! Sometimes it turns out that under the layer of tiles there is a rather strong coating that needs only a little restoration. This allows you to significantly reduce preparation time and save a hefty chunk of your budget.

What if the walls have slight flaws?

Preparation of the surface for painting does not always imply the complete removal of the old layer; sometimes it is enough to carry out a series of restoration procedures. But you need to be completely sure that the base will serve for a long time, otherwise there is a high probability that the new decorative layer will quickly become unusable.

Cracks are always the main problem, so they should be properly covered.

1. All work begins with joining: the crack is widened and deepened. This is done with a spatula, chisel and hammer. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the area from dirt and dust. A simple brush comes to the rescue, allowing you to penetrate deep enough.
2. The existing defect is well treated with a primer. It is necessary to use formulations that allow you to achieve the most thorough impregnation.
3. Further preparation of the walls for painting with their own hands is carried out using a putty and a spatula. It is necessary to cover up the damaged area well so that the composition completely fills it.
4. A reinforcing tape is applied on the front side, it will help to avoid possible troubles. It is pressed into an uncured solution and smeared. The resulting area is well polished.

Important! Spot finishing of walls for painting allows you to achieve the desired quality only when the base is a very reliable canvas. Damaged areas should not be more than 15-25%.

Preparatory work by leveling

Most often, after removing the old decorative layer, it is impossible to carry out further work unless the walls are aligned for painting. Currently, there are several basic options that help to do this in the most correct way. This is the application of a layer of plaster, putty or installation of plasterboard boards. Each method is appropriate for a specific situation.

Plastering

In most cases, it is the plaster of the walls for painting that is the optimal solution, because it is possible to obtain an excellent surface at minimal cost. It is applied directly to the wall in the amount necessary to smooth out all the imperfections.

If the walls have many flaws, then plaster is used to level the surface.

If it is assumed that the layers will be thick, then they are laid along the beacons in several stages. This is the main option when preparing concrete walls for painting.

Procedure:

1. Before plastering the walls for painting, a preliminary marking of the walls is made. Every 60 cm, marks are attached to the gypsum mortar, they will serve as a guide for installing the profiles.
2. When the beacons are securely fixed, each part of the concrete wall or other base is treated with a primer, this will give excellent adhesion of the materials.
3. The prepared solution is applied by sprinkling to the surface. The layer should be thicker than the width of the installed beacons.
4. The rule is set at the bottom and raised at the top. You need to press hard enough to move the tool along the profiles.
5. If empty areas remain, fill them with solution and repeat the procedure.
6. After drying, the beacons are removed and the defects are covered up.

It is important to take into account that the plaster layer should not be thicker than 30 mm. If this value is exceeded, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh, it is also mandatory when working with brick surfaces.

On a note! There is no need to make perfectly leveled areas, if a putty will be used, it will smooth out any remaining irregularities.

Putty

How to level the walls for painting with putty? The technology almost completely repeats the algorithm for working with the previous version. The difference is that the application does not require the installation of beacons, the layer must be thin. The mixture only needs to be distributed over the surface, filling in the existing irregularities.

Drywall

An excellent way out of the situation is the use of drywall, it allows you to avoid numerous preparatory procedures. Painting can be done directly on it, but it is more effective to cover the material with a thin layer of putty.

An important step is surface priming. It not only increases the reliability of fixation, but also reduces paint consumption.

Modern interior design provides a huge range of different options for decorative wall decoration. Among them: paneling, tiling, wallpapering. One of the most popular technologies is painting walls. This option has a lot of advantages. First of all, it is a wide range of colors and the ability to quickly and inexpensively radically change the interior style of the room. But few apartment owners who decide to make repairs on their own know how to properly prepare walls for painting.

Preparation stages

The specificity of the staining technology is that the wall must be prepared with great care. A thin layer of paint and varnish composition will not be able to hide even the smallest flaws in the painted surface. The technology for preparing walls for painting depends on the type of surface to be painted, the material from which it is made, and the type of paint. In general terms, preparation for painting walls in a new building without preliminary consists of the following steps:

• Rough with basic plaster.
• Surface putty: starting and finishing.
• Primer.
• Coloring.

The wall, which has already been processed by any means, must be cleaned from the old finish right down to the very base. Only after that you can start preparing the wall for painting.

Plastering

Plastering involves preliminary preparation of the bearing surface. Depending on the material, it may differ slightly in nuances.

Step-by-step process

Before preparing the walls for painting, you should familiarize yourself in detail with all stages of work. In a new home with raw walls, you need to determine how smooth they are. To do this, use a long building level or a plumb line. By measuring the entire wall area with the instrument in both vertical and horizontal directions, you can get a complete picture of all deviations from the norm.

According to the SNiP regulations, the permissible value of the "blockage" of the wall is no more than 0.5 cm for every 3 m. In case of a larger deviation, it is necessary to align with plaster.

For the convenience of work, beacons are installed along the entire wall - marks made of even metal tubes or wooden slats. They are installed on the mortar patches as follows:

• Placed 2 starting beacons at the corners of the wall.
• Twine is pulled between them in the upper and lower parts.
• The remaining beacons are placed along it every 0.8 - 1 m.

When installing intermediate beacons, they should not be pressed tightly against the taut twine. Otherwise, there is a possibility of its gradual deviation outward. There should be a gap of 1-2 mm between the beacons and the thread.

Then a plaster mortar is laid out on the wall and left for 0.5-1 hour. After it dries slightly, it should be pulled out with a rule or a wide spatula, and the beacons should be removed. After 12 hours, when the plaster has set, the final leveling is carried out with a metal grout or a wooden screed. Plaster mortar can be purchased at a hardware store in the form of a dry mixture, or made by hand - the proportions of various solutions are given in the table.

Increased adhesion

It is easiest to plaster a brick wall, thanks to its embossed structure, to which the mortar clings well. In this case, the plaster can be applied directly to the wall, only by cleaning it from dirt and treating it with a primer. The need and technique for a primer when preparing walls for painting with your own hands will be discussed below.

For high-quality plaster of monolithic reinforced concrete walls, it may be necessary to increase its adhesion. The modern technology of casting the monolith provides for the use of collapsible formwork made of sheet steel or laminated panels. This makes it easier to install and dismantle the formwork, as well as get a smoother surface.

But an overly flat concrete surface also has its drawbacks. The wall, smooth to a glossy sheen, has a very low adhesion index - adhesion with any finishing compound. As a result, coating with any solution will not be durable.

Building - concrete monolith

To increase adhesion, the concrete wall is pretreated with various abrasive or percussion tools: a grinder, a mason's pick, a hatchet, a chisel, etc. As a result, the surface is covered with incisions or a rough structure.

Another option for increasing adhesion is plaster mesh. It is attached to the concrete by means of dowel-nails and serves as a strong base for the plaster mortar.

Wooden surfaces have poor adhesion to plaster solutions. This is due to the physical characteristics of the wood, as a result of which any mixtures will not stick to it.

The wooden wall must be additionally prepared for plastering. For this, plastering metal or fiberglass is also used, or shingles are stuffed crosswise on the surface - thin wooden slats.

The mesh can differ in the diameter of the cells: the thicker the plaster layer, the larger the mesh should be used.

Putty

If the concrete surface is sufficiently flat, you can completely do without applying the base plaster, but it is not recommended to place paint and varnish solutions directly on the cement surface, be it monolithic reinforced concrete or cement plaster. First, they have a large number of small pores. Secondly, their surface is not as smooth as we would like: at the joints of the formwork panels, sags and joints inevitably appear, and along the entire area of ​​the wall there are areas of small shells and other defects.

Application area

To remove sagging and joints, the walls are sanded for painting. As a result of the high porosity of concrete, the consumption of paint sharply increases due to its increased absorption. To avoid waste of material and repair minor defects, putty is used. It has a fine structure, and when applied to a plastered surface, it makes it smoother and smoother.

Putty differs from plaster in its composition. Cement, gypsum or polymers are used as a binder in its production. A finely dispersed structure is obtained through the use of fine-grained quartz sand and chemical plasticizers as a filler.

Application technology

The putty solution goes on sale either in the form of ready-to-use formulations or in the form of dry mixes. The method for preparing dry compositions is quite simple: water is poured into a bucket, to which the mixture is added in the required amount. The proportions for the preparation of the solution are usually given in the instructions for use placed on the package. You will need the following tools for the wall:

• Bucket or other container for solution.
• Wide and narrow spatulas.
• Grout.

Work should be started from one of the upper corners so that drops and splashes do not fall on the already treated surface during work. The finished mixture is scooped out of the container with a narrow spatula and evenly distributed over the entire length of the wide tool. After that, with smooth, sweeping movements, the putty is applied to the wall.

Plastering with finishing compounds can be used as a material for processing immediately prior to painting. They differ from basic plasters in a thinner filler structure and in this respect they are closer to putty solutions.

The thickness of the application of both putties and finishing plaster mixtures should not exceed 3 - 5 mm. After the solution has dried, the entire surface treated with a putty is cleaned with a grout or fine sandpaper. To speed up the process, you can use a grinder and trowel.

When working with it, you should use protective goggles and a respirator to prevent dust from entering the mucous membranes and into the respiratory system.

Primer

The preparation of walls for painting provides for their mandatory treatment with primers. The primer can achieve several results:

• Increase the adhesion of the supporting base.
• Prevent wall damage from fungi and mold.
• Strengthen the surface.
• Make the wall water-repellent.

Adhesive primers are used to treat smooth surfaces and increase the adhesion of the wall to the paint. This is achieved by introducing quartz into the primer composition, which allows you to make any perfectly smooth surfaces slightly rough to the touch.

Antiseptic compounds should be used in rooms with increased dampness - they do not allow mold and mildew to develop on the treated wall. The glue included in the primer strengthens the surface and prevents cracking and flaking.

Due to its increased fluidity, the primer penetrates into the smallest cracks and pores, filling them. Thus, the paths of water access to the thickness of the wall are blocked, and its premature destruction is prevented. Together, all this significantly increases the service life of the painted surface. The technology of preparing walls for painting involves the application of primers before applying each subsequent coat of finishing.

To increase efficiency, the primer should be applied in several layers. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. This usually takes from 3 to 10 hours and depends on the type of soil-composition, air humidity and room temperature.

When choosing primers and putties, one more point must be taken into account: their compositions must be compatible with each other. It is better if they are created based on the same material as the paint you plan to use.

Preparation for painting other surfaces

It is often necessary to paint walls already covered with other finishing materials. In this case, the specifics of the preparatory work depends on the characteristics of the surface to be treated.

If you need to paint a tile, then the main task will be to give a smooth surface a rough structure, for which an adhesive primer is used. It is applied to the tile with a roller or brush in two or three layers, after which you can start painting the wall.

Before painting walls covered with special wallpaper intended for painting, special preparation is usually not required. It is enough just to wipe them with a damp cloth, removing dust from the surface. True, some manufacturers in the instructions for use recommend pre-coating them with special primers.

Surfaces covered with wood panels or battens should first of all be sanded with sandpaper or a sander. Then the wooden base is covered with special primers for wood or drying oil. They reduce paint consumption and increase the wood's resistance to fungal and wood-boring attacks.

Small defects should be putty with special compounds developed for finishing wooden parts and surfaces.

Choice of paint

The final stage is the choice of paint. Almost any type of paint and varnish composition is suitable for painting interior walls. The main thing is that it matches the taste of the owner of the apartment as much as possible. After all, the main purpose of painting the walls is to add aesthetics to the room and create a cozy atmosphere.

Water-based. The most popular type of coloring compositions today, the main advantage of which is the creation of a film that is permeable to air. Thus, they do not impede free gas exchange through the walls of the building.

Latex. Their feature is a flat and smooth surface that protects the walls from moisture penetration. This coating is recommended for use in rooms with high humidity levels.

Acrylic. Created on the basis of acrylic resins. Differs in resistance to abrasion and ultraviolet light, vapor permeable. Suitable for painting all surfaces: plaster, concrete, wood, metal, as well as for outdoor use.

Oil and nitro enamels. The classic version, used many decades ago, which is durable and durable. Among the disadvantages are high material consumption and persistent chemical odor.

Observing the technologies and requirements of building codes, it is quite possible to make high-quality preparation of walls for painting with your own hands.. The main aspect influencing the technology is the characteristics of the treated surface.

The video shows the process of preparing the walls for painting.