Grass compost pit. DIY compost pit

Compost can significantly improve the soil, regardless of its type. If it is clay, it will become more crumbly, but if it is sandy, it will be better to retain moisture. But the price for it is quite high, and the costs will also be for the delivery of compost to the site, so people began to make compost pits themselves to fertilize the soil, but at the same time save money. A lot of organic waste accumulates in any home, so why throw it away when you can equip a pit, and this waste will benefit the soil. In this article, we will consider how to do compost pit do it yourself in the country and how to properly operate it.

The size of the pit must be made based on the approximate amount of garbage that can accumulate in a year, and then rot for at least one year.
The process of removing humus and mixing it should not be complicated, so the height of the walls has its own limitations.
The pit can be made both open and closed, one or two-section.

Weeds and their seeds should not get into the compost.
Worms must freely penetrate the contents of the compost pit.
It is necessary to equip a convenient approach so that there are no difficulties with the removal of humus.
Iron can be placed on the bottom, which over time will also benefit the compost.
The smell from the closed compost pit must not seep out.
The compost pit should not be in direct sunlight.

Compost pit technology

How to make a simple compost pit

The device of a compost pit depends on its future purpose, if it is equipped simply for the disposal of organic waste, then it can be done according to the simplest scheme.

A hole is dug with a depth of about 40-60 cm and a width of 60-70 cm;
a layer of dry grass, straw is laid on the bottom;
after each waste disposal, a layer of grass is again laid on the waste. This is necessary so that flies do not get divorced, and there is no unpleasant smell;
Such a hole should be made somewhere in a remote part of the site, but not near the fences of neighbors.

DIY concrete compost pit

This is a more labor-intensive structure. It consists of two equal compartments, one for old compost and the other for regular replenishment. This design has a lid that rises when necessary to collect fertilizer or throw away waste.
To make the compost of high quality, it is better not to use weeds for its preparation, they can leave harmful seeds in the soil.
It is necessary to provide access to a closed composter for earthworms, otherwise the compost will mature much longer.
In addition, it must be equipped in such a way that it looks like decoration on the site, has a neat appearance... But at the same time, ventilation must be present, so plant climbing plants with dense foliage not recommended.

Stages of work

The process of constructing such a compost pit is quite laborious.

Must be completely leveled and removed upper layer soil;
then a hole breaks out, about 60-80cm deep. Optimal length is 3m, and the width is 2m;
then the formwork is built, and the walls are poured with cement mortar or concrete, the thickness of which should be about ten centimeters.

Tip: for the correct construction of the compost pit closed type it is necessary to prepare a concrete solution, observing all the rules. It seems that there is nothing difficult in this, but in practice it often turns out the opposite. In order to avoid problems, and then do not have to spend a lot of time correcting errors, it is better to do everything right right away.

A concreted compost pit will have all the necessary properties for the timely processing of compost if the proportions of all the components from which the concrete is made for its base are exactly observed.

To create a solution, you will need:

River sand,
Gravel,
Cement,
Water.

Sequencing:

first, pour the gravel into a twenty-liter bucket and shake it very well;
then water is slowly added using a measuring container. If this bucket contains ten liters of water, then the gravel component is 50%, and a two to one ratio is required. This means that another 10 liters of river sand should be added to a twenty-liter bucket of gravel;

such a solution should contain as much as possible less water to avoid further bubbles. If the composition has a high water content, then after it dries, a large number of voids are formed.

Tip: one more important point in the preparation of the mixture for the pit, it is necessary to mix the solution very thoroughly. This is probably even more important than the exact observance of all proportions, therefore it is recommended to do this using a concrete mixer, and not manually.

A closed-type compost pit can have one section, but it is better to immediately make it with a two-section one. In the second case, it is more convenient to use, especially if it is decided not to use drugs to increase the speed of compost maturation.

If the decay process takes place naturally then it will take about two years. Then it is very convenient to use each section separately. The first year you can use one, and when the second year comes, throw waste into the second part. While in one compost reaches the desired state, the other is used.

Building a high compost heap with your own hands

A wooden compost heap is not difficult to build even if you have no experience in construction. At the same time, it can be made so that it will not interfere with either the summer residents themselves or their neighbors.

Racks should be installed in the corners of the pit. The base for them is made of pipes, and the part that is above the surface of the earth can be made of a bar with a section of 10 cm;
One edge of each bar is sharpened to fit the size of the pipes. It is preliminarily recommended to soak all the wooden parts of the structure in a special solution so that they do not succumb to the processes of decomposition and decay;
Further, the bars are driven into the cuttings of the pipes and transverse boards are stuffed onto their above-ground part, which will serve as the walls of the pit;

it is better to fasten the boards with self-tapping screws or metal corners, which will provide a more reliable grip;
finished walls are covered with paint, preferably acrylic.

Of the nuances in this work, it is necessary to take into account:

the diameter of the pipes must fit the size of the bars;
the height of the walls usually does not exceed a meter, this is due to the fact that large and tall structures ultimately turn out to be inconvenient to use, since it complicates the process of digging and extracting compost;
the simplest version of a removable cover is a regular sheet of plywood, which is attached to back wall structures on the hinges. The compost matures best when the lid is closed, but you still need to open it sometimes to ventilate the fertilizer.

What is compostable and what should not be put in the pit

So that the fertilizer can ripen in a timely manner and at the same time not lose its beneficial features for soil, you should know exactly what is suitable for the compost pit.

You can put:

raw vegetables, fruits, berries, cereals, straw, grass, hay, ash, foliage, needles, bark, branches, plant roots, sawdust, shredded paper, herbivorous animal manure.

Do not put:

bones, excrement of carnivorous domestic animals, tops from potatoes and tomatoes, any greens after treatment with pesticides, weed seeds, any synthetic waste, as well as tops of infected plants.

Correct compost pit

In order for the compost to form successfully, it needs certain conditions:

moisture;
warmly;
oxygen.

To create a greenhouse effect, the still unripe compost must be watered (especially in hot and dry summers), and, if necessary, covered with foil. For a good reaction, oxygen is also needed, and oxygen is provided by loosening the waste with a pitchfork.

If it is not possible to equip a pit, water it, and so on, then you can simply put organic waste in one place, where compost forms over time. This is certainly not the most The best way from the point of view of aesthetics, but it has a right to exist.

In order for such a heap to be equal in functionality to the compost pit, special preparations must be added to it.
You will also need to periodically cover it with dark material to speed up the maturation of the compost. In a covered pit, the compost will be processed within 3-4 months, but if you keep it open, the process will take about six months or a year.
It is impossible to put polyethylene at the bottom of the heap, which will block the free access of water and oxygen. If the soil under the compost is covered synthetic material, then moisture from the heap will evaporate very quickly, but will not be able to rise from the ground.
When placing the contents of the compost in a heap, it is recommended to alternate manure, grass, waste and soil whenever possible. During extreme heat, you need to water the pile to receive the right amount moisture and the composting processes were not disturbed.
It is convenient to make two heaps side by side or one large one, but on two sides, this is a simplified version of a two-section box. When the compost is ready on one side and can be regularly laid out on the beds, waste is thrown out on the other side of the heap.
When the compost heap reaches about one meter in height, it is advisable to use fertilizer. For this, several deep holes are made and the solution is poured into them. V warm time years to replace them, you can add Californian worms.

Correct location of the compost pit

Before you equip a compost pit in the country, you need to choose the right site for it:

From sources drinking water(wells, wells, etc.) the pit must be located at a distance of at least twenty-five meters;
If the site is located on a slope, then the pit is equipped below the source of drinking water, this is necessary so that rotting waste through the soil could not get into clean water;
It is necessary to take into account the most frequent wind direction so as not to cause significant inconvenience to neighbors, especially if the pit is not covered with a lid and exudes strong unpleasant odors;
There should always be free access to the pit, which will provide convenient removal of garbage using buckets or removing humus with a wheelbarrow.

The compost pit is made as far away from residential buildings as possible. It should be in partial shade, since under the sun's rays all the processes taking place in it will slow down.
The site for the location of such a pit must be flat.
It is impossible to allow stagnation of water in it - this will interfere with the access of oxygen.

Plastic containers for compost

This method is good for those who can allocate funds for its purchase and want the appearance of their site to be more presentable. It can be installed absolutely anywhere. But you will have to take into account the presence of an unpleasant odor, because you will need to regularly open the lid to ventilate the contents of the container.
The constant access of oxygen to the compost is provided with special holes also necessary to prevent excess moisture from stagnating.
Feature of use plastic container for compost heap is that it is necessary to use special preparations to speed up the composting process. Replacement drugs can be provided by earthworms, if they are specially planted in this container.

To save money and for the benefit of the site, a compost pit is perfect solution for fertilization. It is very simple to equip and operate it, you just need to know a few rules. But at the same time, you will always have ready-made fertilizer for the soil on the site.

Photo of the compost pit

A compost pit is a place where organic waste is disposed of. The whole garden trash here it decomposes under the influence of microorganisms. This later becomes the basis for organic fertilizers. How make a compost pit with your own hands covered in this article.

There are such heaps in some way on every personal plot. These are ordinary heaps to which garbage is dumped. But such trash can be turned into valuable fertilizer... To do this, it is necessary to design the pits correctly or make special boxes. In this case, you can increase the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.

Making a compost pit correctly is easy enough using available tools and building materials that can be found in the country and any personal plot.

Principles of compost pit construction

Why make these pits and what is the use of them? In such pits, optimal conditions for the vital activity of microorganisms, bacteria and worms, which contribute to the early formation of compost and an increase in the rate of its formation. These organisms live under certain conditions:

sufficient moisture;
elevated temperature;
sufficient oxygen.

What is needed for all of the above conditions to be met.

The required volume of the composting facility must be at least 1 cubic meter. This will keep the high temperature stable.
Gaps on the sides of the structure are made for regular oxygen supply to the inner layers of the compost heap.
The top cover must be removable so that moisture can flow in sufficient quantities.
The bottom of the structure should be on the ground so that worms and bacteria can make their way inside.
The front wall should be removable or discarded so that the finished compost can be removed.

Watch the video! Making a compost

To make a compost pit, you can use the materials that are found on summer cottage: remnants of slate, corrugated board, boards, mesh or car tires... It is possible to build a pit with more durable materials, for example, kick out of bricks. Special structures made of plastic or metal are also sold; they are easier to install and transport.

Important! The compost pit should be installed at least 20 m from drinking water sources. It is not permissible for the water to flow from the pit towards the well or pool.

Choosing a place for a compost pit

The compost pit should not become a source of contamination groundwater... It is not necessary to make a hole in places where water stagnates.

Things to remember when choosing a pit location:

20 meters to the places where drinking water accumulates. These are wells, wells, ponds. It is imperative to ensure that it does not drain from the compost pit rainwater towards them.
10 meters to residential buildings. We must also take into account the buildings of our neighbors. Be sure to follow the direction of the wind so that bad smell did not overshadow the rest. An excellent location option would be the far corner of the garden so that the pit does not interfere and is not conspicuous.
Maintain a distance from trees and shrubs so that they do not feed on rotting products that enter the groundwater. This can damage both the plantings themselves and the fruits.
A good place is partial shade. The bright sun will dry out the contents too much, it will have to be constantly moisturized.
In order not to spoil the external impression, the pit is installed in an inconspicuous place. It would be nice to lay a path to it so that you can bring the filling into the pit on a wheelbarrow.

Advice! The compost pit can be decorated if desired. Plant curly flowers or fence.

Making a compost pit with your own hands

To make a compost pit with your own hands, they use improvised tools and materials that can be found in most yards. Good construction will last for a long time, helping to turn garbage and waste into fertilizers that will be beneficial to plants. There are several types of structures, consider the design of each of them and the manufacturing options.

Compost pit in the soil

To create a compost pit in the ground, you must:

Choose the right place.
Remove the top layer of soil of any length, 1.5 m wide.
Deepen 0.5m.
Pour a sand pillow so that excess water is drained from the bottom.

Pruned branches (for drainage and aeration of the heap);
Grass;
Dry leaves;
Sawdust;
Food waste;
Manure;
Weeds.

It is necessary to sprinkle earth or peat between layers and spill water. If you need to speed up the process, you can chop it with a shovel before stacking all the contents.

The pile should rise a maximum of one meter from the ground, its total height will be 1.5 m. From above you need to cover with something, you can slate. When the street is very heat must be watered with water.

In just two seasons, the whole pile will turn into fertilizer in the most normal conditions... This method is the most economical and simplest.
In addition, EM preparations can be used. In order to process waste to microorganisms in the pit, a temperature of +4 degrees is sufficient.

Compost pit made of boards

A compost box is made from the boards for ease of use and acceleration of the disposal process. The size 1 * 1.5m is the most convenient and suitable for these purposes.

Phased construction of a structure made of boards:

Determination of the place.
Markup.
Removing the top layer of sod 10 cm thick.
You need to dig in the corners copper pipes, insert the bars that will serve as supports. If necessary, they must be propped up.
Wood materials to be used are recommended to be processed protective equipment... When decaying, substances are released that will damage the boards.
It is necessary to choose boards that are stronger and secure them with self-tapping screws. A distance of up to 5 cm is left between the boards so that the air can pass in a heap.
A distance of about 30 cm is left below, so that ready-made fertilizers can be selected, and new ones will be reported from above.
As an alternative to boards, use construction pallets... They can be connected together or disassembled into separate boards from which to build a box.
It is necessary to make sure that the pit is covered from heavy rainfall and bright sun. To do this, you can make a convenient lid on which you can adjust the handle. It will be convenient to fix it on the back wall.

It is necessary to put the contents there through the top, and from the bottom to get ready-made fertilizer. The order remains the same as when laying a hole in the ground.

Slate Compost Pit

One of the positive properties of slate is its strength. The material will not suffer from decay of the contents. You can choose the one that is convenient or available.

It can be either a flat or a sheet version.
How to make a composter:

Make markings and deepen the sheets prepared in advance. From the outside, they are fixed with a crate made of wood or metal.
A more durable option would be to use deep metal pipes in the corners, to which a frame made of bars is attached and sheathed with slate.

If there are wooden parts, they are covered with special products so that they do not rot under the influence of the contents. The lid can be made from plywood or planks. In such a device, the front wall is made 2 times lower than the others. You can also use a film or cover material, because it is very convenient to fix them on solid bases.

Compost pit made of corrugated board

There is one plus in using corrugated board for making a compost box - you can immediately choose a material that is not afraid of corrosion.

How to make the construction correctly:

Choose a location and make a base. You can use metal or wood.
The size of the box can also be adjusted to the size of the sheets. In it, if you wish, you can build several sections.
The base is made according to the same principle as in a wooden box.
The corrugated board is fixed from the outside, self-tapping screws with gaps of 3-5 cm are used for this.
The top is made of boards or plywood. Can cover the frame protective compound to extend its service life.

Advice! In the warm season, the metal gets very hot, so it is necessary to monitor the moisture level in the contents.

Wire mesh compost bin

You can also make a waste container from a metal mesh. Then you need to make it in the form of a cylinder. The undoubted advantages of this design are that air gets into it well, the contents are ventilated, and not rotted. These structures are easy to manufacture, lightweight, can be transported and assembled.

Procedure:

The net should be of the required length and with a 20 cm margin for entry.
Wrap or garden textiles must be the same size.
You can fasten the mesh with wire, put textiles or film inside.
To make the structure more stable, it is strengthened from the outside with beams. Sometimes they are added in drops.
Secure the edges of the material that lies on the bottom from the outside with simple stationery clamps.

To simplify the task, you can use huge garbage bags. You can use special bags available from gardening stores. Fill in the same way general principle starting from the branches.

Compost pit made of concrete

This pit has several advantages:

its walls will long time maintain the required temperature;
no impacts the environment she is not afraid;
she is not afraid of excessive moisture or sun.

If you make such a pit with several departments, then the use will be much more convenient and practical. For example, in one compartment there is compost from one season, in another from the next, and in the third - ready-made fertilizer.

Procedure:

The pit should have a proportion of 1.5m * 3.5m already in finished form... A depth of 70cm will be the most comfortable.
It is necessary to make the formwork, leaving a distance of about 15 cm to the edges of the pit. You can use plywood or boards.
Walls finished structure should be 40 cm above ground level.
The iron mesh is installed inside and poured with concrete.
To make concrete, cement, screenings and crushed stone are needed in a proportion of 1 * 3 * 3.
You can tamp it with a shovel or fittings so that there are no voids left in the walls.
Remove the formwork when the concrete has hardened to the end, after about 14 days.
As a cover, you can use a special covering material or wood.

It is worth remembering that when using a concrete pit, the process does not go very quickly. To speed it up, you can purchase special means and manually add earthworms.

Conclusion

There are no particular tweaks to the construction of a compost pit. The materials that are used are in any garden or cottage.
The benefit of a compost pit is that household and household waste will be disposed of in it.
When the compost pit is arranged correctly, fertilizer is formed in it, which does not contain any harmful substances, it is environmentally friendly. Its use will increase yields. Rational use and an economic approach will help reduce material costs and improve the environmental situation.
To achieve the best result in the manufacture of a compost pit or box, you can use the tips from the article, get acquainted in addition with the photo and video of the manufacture.

Watch the video! How to make a compost pit with your own hands

In summer cottages and household plots, there is often a problem of disposal of organic waste - leaves, weeds, cleaning, sawdust and others. Unlike inorganic waste (glass, plastic, etc.), all of this can be used to obtain a clean, environmentally friendly fertilizer - compost. It turns out as a result of the biological decomposition process under the influence of the vital activity of microorganisms. Adding compost to any soil improves its quality characteristics. Clay soils acquire a lighter, crumbly structure, and sandy ones retain moisture better. Let's take a look at how you can make a compost pit and compost properly.

The following organic waste is suitable for raw materials, which are conventionally divided into two large groups.

Brown waste

These include those that emit carbon.

Green waste

Wastes that emit nitrogen are considered green.

unsuitable for food and for processing berries, vegetables and fruits;
sleeping tea and coffee cake;
stubs and cleaning;
scraps of wool;
leftovers of soups, cereals;
eggshell;
waste products of herbivores.

When laying a large amount of freshly cut grass, the composting time will increase significantly. To speed up the process, lightly sprinkle small layers of grass with earth.

What should not be put?

Not all organic matter is suitable for fertilization.

You cannot put in the compost pit:

fresh pet excrement;
loach, wheatgrass;
bones;
leaves and other parts of plants affected by diseases, especially powdery mildew;
plants treated with any chemicals;
weeds that have matured seeds;
inorganic non-degradable waste (rubber, metal, glass, synthetic materials);
tops of potatoes and tomatoes;
fats, meat, dairy products;
fresh and boiled eggs (except for shells).

Potato and tomato tops, even healthy in appearance, can be a carrier of late blight. Subsequently, such fertilization can infect all plants. In addition, this raw material takes a very long time to be disposed of, the process will take about 5 years.

Anything that is not suitable for a compost pit, but should be thrown into a cesspool or taken out from the site as garbage.

Location requirements

A place on the site is chosen, as a rule, out of sight and one that is not a pity - where nothing grows due to dense shade or infertility of the soil, somewhere behind farm buildings, if any, in the backyards.

There are other important points as well.

You need to understand that rotting raw materials will not emit the most pleasant smell, so you should think about moving away from the resting place, and about neighbors. It would be nice to know the wind rose, so as not to place the pile on the leeward side.
Consideration should be given to providing free access to the pit, as raw materials will be added and taken continuously throughout the season.
It is advisable to choose a site on a flat surface, and not in a pit, it is possible with a slight slope in order to exclude stagnation of water, which interferes with the flow of oxygen, and therefore stretches the process over time.
The compost heap, although called a pit, must be above ground level. In this case, it will warm up better, it will be more convenient to loosen, water and generally serve it. The optimal parameters are 50 cm deep, 1 m of barriers above the ground. Higher walls will make loosening and composting difficult.
Exclude proximity to a source of drinking water (must be more than 25 m).
The place should be in shade or partial shade - sunlight slows down and dries out the raw materials.
Do not place the structure under trees, they can get sick and die. Neighborhood with conifers and other evergreen crops is especially not recommended. The best neighbors there will be alder and birch.

Do not cover the bottom of the pit with foil, slate or other material that does not allow moisture to pass through! It must penetrate from the soil unhindered (deepening will contribute to this), otherwise everything will dry out. The bottom must remain earthen.

Design features

Ideal dimensions of a structure are usually indicated by parameters 1.5m x 2m, but ultimately they are determined based on the amount of raw materials that can be saved in 2 years. This is how much the process of preparing the finished substrate will take. Therefore, the ideal pit should be twice as large and two-section, designed for two cycles. In the first compartment there will be a ready-made bookmark, in the other over the next two years fresh waste will be accumulated.

It is important to know that a small pit will not heat up well as a result of decay, and this temperature may not be enough to kill all pathogenic microflora and harmful spores. Experts determine the required temperature at 60C and the above-mentioned optimal dimensions.

Above, the structure must have a removable cover.

Design options

You can equip a compost pit in different ways, consider several common options.

Plain pit

The simplest structure that does not require additional costs and materials. A shallow pit is made, no more than half a meter deep, into which everything is folded according to the usual principle. The contents are covered with black polyethylene from above. In order to make it easier to remove for adding waste or use, it is rolled from both sides onto a long handle, which also serves as a load. After each new bookmark, it is recommended to cover the waste with grass.

The option is simple, but it is difficult to call it effective and convenient. There will be difficulties with mixing, and such a pile will not be able to warm up enough, which means that it will take a longer period for it to quail.

Two-section composter

The material for manufacturing can be boards, old slate, metal sheets, corrugated board, walls from plastic containers, bricks, etc. The optimal dimensions, depending on the size of the site, are 1.5-2 m wide and 2-3 m long. Deepen by 0.5-0.8 m. To fix the structure at the corners (retreating to the required distance from the pit), pipe sections or large-diameter metal rods are dug in, capable of withstanding the weight of the compost heap. Wooden pillars they are not suitable for this purpose, since the decay process will invariably touch them, and the structure will not stand for long due to the load.

Install the walls without forgetting about ventilation holes... A partition is installed in the middle, dividing the structure into two equal-sized compartments. In one of them ready-made humus will be stored, in the second "young" waste will be stored. It is better to make the lid hinged, so that it does not slide out and tightly covers the contents.

It is advisable to treat the supporting sections of metal pipes with an anti-corrosion bioprotective compound, and all wooden parts- protective impregnation, and then cover with two coats of acrylic paint.

The bottom, as already mentioned, cannot be covered with waterproof material, but straw, sawdust or tree bark they are perfect for this - they will provide the necessary air exchange and allow excess moisture to calmly leave.

If you wish, you can make three sections. In the first, there will be a ready-made substrate, in the second, a fully matured one, and the third will be designed for laying new raw materials.

Single section composter

More simple and sufficient compact version... Take away finished product will have to be from below, for which in one of the walls (or even better - with different sides) you need to make a hole from which the ripe fertilizer will be selected. A distance of at least 30-40 cm should remain between the wall of the box and the ground. In this case, there is no need to mix the substrate.

Concrete box

A construction that will be built literally once and for all. Neat and reliable. To do this, you need to dig a trench of the desired perimeter with a depth of 70-80 cm and make a formwork. Pour concrete into it, remove the formwork and remove the earth from the box to the required depth. As a cover, you can use a wooden board or a film, pressed against a metal mesh.

Ready plastic container

The modern market offers ready-made plastic composter structures. They have different size(within 400 -1000 l), necessary ventilation holes (make sure of this!) and a cover.

Their cost depends on the size, design and region and usually ranges from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.

Do not make compost pits too large, their contents will overheat, which is also undesirable, since this will lead to the death of the necessary microorganisms.

How to fill a compost pit correctly?

Before laying the raw materials, clean the bottom of the pit from the turf and dig it well to a depth of 30 cm. This will provide conditions for the active life of worms and the penetration of beneficial microorganisms, which will provide irreplaceable assistance in the waste processing process. In addition, excess water will well go into the loose soil.

We start laying, alternating layers of wet and dry, brown and green raw materials. Their optimal ratio should be approximately as follows: 3 parts of brown waste to 1 part of green waste, and wet raw materials should be 5 times more than dry. Anything large must be broken or chopped.

Moisten (not much) and cover with a lid.

Raw materials should not be strongly tamped, but excessive looseness is also undesirable. Everything should be in moderation, especially humidity.

Storing compost is not all. Correct follow-up will help speed up the decay process and make the fertilizer more nutritious. Follow the guidelines below.

The following additives contribute to faster cooking.

Rotted horse manure.
Some plant species (valerian, chamomile, dandelions, yarrow).
Specially produced activating drugs, for example, Baikal EM-1, Compostin and Compostar.
Stale (dried) bird droppings.
Stems of leguminous crops.
Bone and dolomite meal.
Superphosphate and complex mineral fertilizers.

In the process of decomposition of the contents, the temperature inside rises, and light steam can even rise from the heap. This is normal and everything is going right.

Take your time and effort for this simple structure. This will also solve the problem of recycling a considerable part of organic waste, and will provide the most valuable fertilizer, of which you will be absolutely sure of the quality and environmental friendliness.

Compost pit Is a place for the disposal of organic waste. As a result of the activity of microorganisms in it, the decomposition of garden waste occurs, which becomes the basis for a highly effective organic fertilizer... In the article, we will consider options for making a compost pit with our own hands.

In one form or another, compost pits, in the form of the simplest heaps of garbage, are present on every household plot. But correct constructions in the form of modern composters or specially equipped boxes can increase the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.

The simplest compost pit can be made with your own hands from auxiliary building materials available in the country.

Principles of compost pit construction

The main function of the compost pit is to create the most comfortable environment for the life of bacteria, microorganisms, earthworms, the quantity of which determines the speed of the process and the quality of the resulting compost. To do this, a fairly high temperature and humidity must be maintained inside the compost heap with a regular supply of oxygen.

For this, the compost container must have the following design features:

Compost boxes are made from any materials at hand. It can be boards, slate trimmings, corrugated board, metal construction mesh and even car tires... More capital structures are built of brick or concrete. There are also lightweight, portable recyclers in metal or plastic barrels.

The main sanitary requirement when constructing a compost pit, its distance is 20 meters from reservoirs and sources of drinking water. Rain streams should not drain from the compost heap in the direction of wells, boreholes, basins.

Choosing a place on the site for a compost pit

The location of the composter on the site should not become a source of groundwater contamination, a threat to human and animal health. Avoid placing the compost pit in wetlands or in areas with standing water.

The external design of the compost pit can be absolutely anything. It can be decorated with beautifully painted shields, fenced with plantings of loach and perennial, ornamental plants.

Making a compost pit with your own hands

On a garden or personal plot, you can use the most simple tools make a quality structure and turn a pile of garden waste and decomposable household waste into valuable fertilizer. There are the most different kinds compost heaps, from earthen ditches to real concrete structures.

Compost pit in the ground

To create a compost pit:

In the ground, they select a site away from residential buildings.
On an area 1.5 m wide and of arbitrary length, the top layer of sod and soil is removed.
The bottom of the pit should be located at a depth of no more than 0.5 meters.
The bottom is poured sand pillow to drain excess water.

The first layer acts as a drainage and aerates the heap and consists of cut branches.

Layers are laid on them:

cut grass;
dry foliage;
sawdust;
household food waste;
manure;
weeds.

The layers are sprinkled with peat or garden soil, spilled with water. To speed up the decomposition process, it is advisable to grind all the ingredients before laying them by simply chopping them with a shovel.

The total height of the heap should not exceed 1.5 meters. This means that it will rise 1 meter above the ground. The structure is protected from above with a covering material or a slate shield. In hot weather, the pile is watered with plain water.

Under natural conditions, microorganisms will be able to process such a waste dump in two summer seasons... This is the easiest and most economical way to get compost.

Use EM drugs. Microorganisms need a temperature of + 4 ° C inside the compost heap to successfully process waste.

Making a compost pit from planks

For ease of use and acceleration of the disposal process, the compost container is made of boards. Optimal size compost bin 1x1.5 meters.

Instructions for making a pit from boards:

Garbage is put into such a container through the top according to the general principle, starting with the branches. And you can rake out the finished compost from the bottom.

Photo: drawing of the compost box, diagram of the composter

Variants of compost pits made from planks

The slate is durable and is perfect for the walls of the compost bin. You can use both wave and flat sheet slate.

Options for making a slate composter:

At the location of the compost heap, markings are made and deepen the cut to size sheets. They can be fixed with an external, wooden or iron crate.
In another version metal pipes buried in the ground. A frame made of bars is attached to them. Outside, it is sheathed with slate. The second design is more durable.

Everything wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic to avoid rotting. A pit cover is made of plywood or boards. The front wall of the pit is made lower, at a level of 40-50 cm above ground level. Rigid walls allow you to cover the pit with foil or garden cover material.

Compost pit made of corrugated board

When making a compost bin from corrugated board, choose a material with an anti-corrosion coating.

Work order:

At the chosen place, a base is built from a metal or wooden bar.
The dimensions of the pit are selected for the length of the sheets, which makes it possible to make a compost bin with two or three compartments.
The base is made, as for a wooden structure.
Outside, the profile strips are fastened with self-tapping screws with gaps of 3-5 cm.
It should be borne in mind that metal surface heats up a lot during hot summer periods.
A cover of their plywood or boards is made from above. It is desirable to cover the frame with a protective compound.

Wire mesh compost bin

To make compost, you can make a cylindrical container from a metal mesh. In such a cylinder, the compost is well ventilated and does not rot.

How to make a compost bin:

To simplify, you can put a large-volume plastic bag (polyethylene) inside the basket, which is used for garbage. These baskets are easy to assemble and install anywhere. They are filled with waste like a compost pit. Also, compost can be made in special bags, which are sold in garden centers.

Concrete compost pit

A concrete compost pit has many benefits:

Thick walls maintain a positive temperature for a long time.
Such a pit is durable and reliable, not affected by adverse natural conditions.

It is desirable to make it large, into two or even three compartments. In the first and second blocks, the compost of different seasons will mature. In the third, bags with ready-made compost are stored.

How to make a concrete compost pit:

When operating a concrete pit, it must be taken into account that the composting process is slowed down. To speed up the process, you need to manually add earthworms or commercially available special products to it.

Other compost pit material options

Compost pit from car tires

Car tires are quite suitable for arranging a compost heap:

Compost in an iron barrel

Old iron drums are great for composting:

We cut both bottoms with a chisel and place them near the path.
We put weeds, grass cuttings, and kitchen waste into the barrel.
To increase the temperature, you can paint the barrel black, pour the compost with a solution of ammonium nitrate ( Matchbox on a bucket of water).
We take out the finished compost from below. To do this, you need to lift the barrel with a crowbar.

To improve the design:

Using a grinder (angle grinder), you need to cut the barrel into two unequal parts and punch holes in the walls for air circulation.
Then we put them on the butt and connect with wire or rope. Cover with a lid on top.
The advantages of this design are the easy accessibility of the contents of the barrel for worms and bacteria from below.
To get ready-made compost, you just need to untie the rope, and you will receive two hundred liters of ready-made fertilizer.

Compost in a plastic barrel

The ideal compost bin material is plastic... In conventional compost heaps, the compost takes two years to prepare. In plastic barrels with a capacity of 150-200 liters, you can prepare liquid compost in two weeks.

For this:

We fill the barrel with cut grass or weeds up to half, and fill it with water to the top.
After about three days, the fermentation process will begin.
After using the solution, you can add water to the barrel again and let it brew for one week.
Having used up the liquid compost completely, the remaining grass is piled into a compost heap.

Compost pit made of bricks

The brick compost pit is made in three walls. It can be done on cement slurry or without it. On cement mortar, the compost pit is made no more than 1 meter high. Ventilation slots must be left between the bricks.

A compost pit made of bricks without cement bond is convenient because it can be moved to another place if necessary.

In the compost pit, provide a place for throwing the compost mass. Make a lid from an available material. The front wall is made temporary so that it is convenient to take out the finished compost.

Compost pit made of concrete rings

In the inner cavity concrete ring you can successfully store garden waste and get compost as a result. For convenience the ring is partially buried in the ground, and after filling, cover with a lid or film material.

The disadvantages of the design include the absence of a lowered front wall. To unload the finished compost, you need to climb inside. Otherwise, very durable compost chambers are obtained from such reinforced concrete products.

Finnish compost pit

If you don't want to make a compost pit, you can purchase a composter according to Finnish technology... It is modern with two containers, with a capacity of 80 liters. Its contents are mixed with a layer of peat and sawdust. You can also recycle food.

When the container is full, take it out and insert another. Due to the high concentration, the finished compost is mixed with earth or sand and fertilized with plants. The released container is washed and returned to its place.

Compost and cesspool should not be confused. In containers for composting, organic matter is stored with garden plot... The remains of protein foods should be disposed of in a sump.

What can and cannot be placed in the compost pit?

Composting reduces waste in landfills and provides our vegetable gardens and orchards with additional fertilization.

In the compost pit, first of all, organic garden waste is laid, in the form of:

branches;
dry foliage;
cut grass;
weeds;
straw.

Good ingredients for a compost heap are:

food leftovers from vegetarian food;
shell of eggs;
onion peel.

You can transfer compost with manure and chicken droppings.

The prohibited ingredients of the compost heap are:

construction and household waste with a high content of phenols;
remnants of printing products;
plastic.

Leftovers of protein and oily food are not placed in the compost, as they decompose slowly and attract mice and rats.

From plant residues do not put in the compost weeds with ripe seeds and roots that can take root well, such as:

sow thistle;
wheatgrass;
loach.

Drought-resistant plants must be dried before being placed in the compost heap so that they lose their ability to root. Sawdust can be used in moderation as it decomposes slowly and takes up nitrogen. And also do not use the feces of domestic animals and humans for composting.

Compost pit preparations

The main task of preparations containing biological activators is to accelerate the decomposition processes with the help of microorganisms.

The preparations do an excellent job with the processing of organic matter and do not allow pathogenic microflora to develop in the compost pit:

Composting can be significantly accelerated by using "Baikal EM"... This preparation contains effective microorganisms (EM).
The drug "Doctor Robik" significantly increases the number of effective microorganisms (EM) in the compost. They are engaged in the processing of organic matter into humus, and also prevent the development of pathogenic microflora and destroy the larvae of harmful insects.
The bioactivator has similar properties. Bioactivator package Green-Master needs to be diluted in 20 liters warm water, let it brew for 4 hours and pour over the compost heap. After 2 weeks, you need to turn the heap with a pitchfork. To prepare compost, one treatment with a bioactivator solution is enough.
Good results are obtained by the drug "Compost Boost" for composting.
Manufacturer Happy summer resident produces "Biocompostin"- a composting agent. Sanex Plus produces EcoCompost.
The manufacturer Deson Bio K produces several types of drugs:"Green universal", "Compost of one season", "Compost for the next agricultural season", "Bioactivator for compost".

Using the preparations, you can significantly accelerate microbiological processes and get compost in 2-3 months.

Bioactivators for compost

Compost pit operating rules

After the construction of the compost box and its filling, it remains to occasionally look inside and, depending on the changes taking place, correct the decomposition process.

Tips for using the composter:

During dry periods it is necessary to water the compost with plain water, preventing it from overheating, which leads to a reduction in the population of some types of beneficial bacteria.
Loosen the compost heap at least once every two weeks., thereby ensuring the flow of oxygen into all, even the lowest, layers.
Add Effective Microorganisms to the compost content in the form of solutions and various additives.
To speed up the processes, you can add ready-made compost substrate in which there is full complex microbiological activators.
If the pit structure does not have a top cover then just tighten the top with the cover garden material black, which will increase the temperature and greenhouse effect inside the structure.

Summarizing

The creation of a compost pit does not require serious material investments. You can make it with my own hands from scrap materials, which are always enough on any personal plot.

Having spent a little time making a compost pit, in the future you will not have to solve the problems of disposal of garden and household waste.

If you have a decent plot of land, you still need to fertilize it from time to time. So why not use for these purposes quality compost? No, we do not offer you to buy it with delivery to private plot... This pleasure is not cheap. It is much easier to independently produce this useful fertilizer on your own land. All the conditions for this are already in place - all that remains is to establish the system. You can combine business with pleasure: clean the area from unnecessary waste and produce selected compost. Let's find out how you can build a compost pit yourself and try to avoid mistakes.

What are the benefits of a compost pit?

On a plot of land, compost pits are used to store waste, surplus products. Subsequently, they decompose and turn into fertilizer rather High Quality... If at the beginning of the season you build a compost pit in your favorite summer cottage with your own hands, in the fall you will be waiting for a ready-made, incredibly useful fertilizer. The average compost “ripening” time is three months. Of course, provided that the composter is made correctly and the pit has been given proper attention. Otherwise, the decomposition process can take 1-2 years.

Compost pit construction standards

To build a good and safe house, you need a well-thought-out project. The requirements for a compost pit are not so severe, but they are there too. Try to provide a regular supply of heat, oxygen and moisture to speed up the ripening process of fertilizers. Follow these rules:

The pile should rise above the ground and not be level with or below the ground. This is really important, because in this case the heap warms up much better, it is much more convenient to water and loosen it. We advise you to dive 45-50 cm, but leave the barriers about a meter. An ideal do-it-yourself compost pit is 1.5 meters wide and 2 meters long.
Keep in mind that if there is at least one water source on the territory, it must be 25 meters or more from the compost pit. If the site has a certain slope, the pit is always constructed below the source. Otherwise, the water in it will cease to be drinking.
The compost pit in the country is located at some distance from the living quarters or gazebo. You do not want to meet the morning with unpleasant odor or to fry kebabs in the yard, inhaling completely different "flavors"?
It's great if there is some kind of a big tree... For compost, it is always recommended to choose a place that is in partial shade. This will protect the pit from drying out quickly.
You should choose the size of the pit with your own hands, taking into account the volume of garbage that is in the country, and it is planned to be introduced in the next two years.
Finnish technology compost pit fences must be high enough for convenient loosening and compost collection.

Never make the bottom of slate, do not cover it with rubber or metal. These materials prevent the soil from rising up, but the compost will dry out regularly. The bottom is made of earth, the walls are closed with any of the available materials.

Diagram of a ventilated compost bin

What is allowed to be thrown into the compost pit and what is prohibited?

Building a composter with your own hands is half the battle. To get really high-quality fertilizer, you need to know what you can't put in the pit, and what you can.

To achieve maximum efficiency, you can safely lay the following types of waste:

Bark and leaves, shredded branches.
Grass, dried up weeds.
Long-quail manure, droppings of birds and other domestic animals.
Any fruits and vegetables, as well as their cleaning.
Leftover tea.
Small sawdust, shavings, straw.
Ash left after burning wood.

Any video about the construction and further use of such structures will confirm that ash and even paper in any form can be placed in the compost pit: cardboard, napkins. When laying fresh grass, especially if it comes on a sufficiently thick layer, the decomposition process takes a year. To speed it up, we advise you to sprinkle the grass with soil.

Compost filling scheme

Never mortgage:

Bones and very thick branches. They rot for a long time.
Inorganic products. In particular, they include rubber and polyethylene, metal and plastic, synthetics.
Tomato tops, since it is often infected with late blight.
Plants that have previously been treated with chemicals.

Now you know for sure that you shouldn't put it in a compost pit under any pretext.

Popular ways to create

For a compost pit with your own hands, all manufacturing options can be divided into several types. Let's list them.

Regular waste heap

It is not difficult to prepare this type of heap. All you need to do is choose the most suitable place for placing the compost heap. Then gradually stack the waste. If possible, they are laid in layers. For example, food scraps can be alternated with straw, green grass, and dung.

As soon as the height reaches a meter, you will need to make 3-4 depressions and pour compost liquid inside. It significantly speeds up the process, so the first compost will be ready in three months.

The above option is one of the most quick ways obtaining compost when minimum costs.

All you need to create a compost heap is a wheelbarrow and a shovel.

Classic pit

One of the manufacturing options is that you dig a small depression in the ground that is square. Cover your version of the hole with branches and hay at the bottom, as well as bark. Next, put food, plant waste. The temperature inside will not be very high, so it is recommended to immediately cover with plastic.

Please note that this option is the least successful of all. Firstly, such a pit warms up much worse. Secondly, the temperature in it is not always high. But it has a small area and is easy to arrange.

Classic compost pit

Building a compost box made of wood

How to make a compost pit correctly so that the construction is inexpensive and practical? To do this, you can use bars, sheets of metal with slate. The pit making process is as follows:

You peel off the top layer with a thickness of about 35-40 centimeters.
Next, drive in the pegs around the perimeter.
You will need to install a fence around the pit. You can make it out of pallets, use blocks of wood, boards and boards. It is allowed to use other materials: flat and corrugated slate, polycarbonate, metal sheets.
The height of the fence is no more than one meter. Otherwise, even with great growth it will be inconvenient for you to mix the compost.
The structure is covered with plywood or foil. Compost warms up perfectly, so this design is considered optimal in all areas.

Very original version execution is the construction of a box made of wood. The lower edges of the structure do not reach the surface by 25-30 centimeters. Boards and other materials are also attached at a certain distance from the ground. Below, the compost matures several times faster, since it is laid much earlier. The finished fertilizer is picked up from the bottom, the pile gradually goes down. The main plus is that there is no need to loosen the pile, because you will always have the opportunity to get the right amount of compost.

Compost box with pull-out wall

Concrete pit

Perhaps the most reliable and durable option that will serve you for more than a dozen years. The arrangement of the structure is as follows. After selection suitable place development (about 2 by 3 meters), you will need to select a soil of about 60-80 cm. Next, you construct formwork 10 cm thick around the perimeter, mix the concrete solution and pour it into the formwork. As soon as the solution hardens, the formwork must be removed. We lay the waste in layers one by one, cover it on top with wooden boards or foil.

Despite the fact that this method is one of the most costly, in terms of efficiency it certainly has no equal. It is advisable to immediately divide the compost structure into two sections. In one of them, you will put the waste of this season, in the other, the compost from last year will decompose.

The compost pit can also be replaced with an ordinary large barrel. However, in this case, you will definitely need to use special drugs or add worms.

How to operate the pit?

In conclusion, here are some tips for those who already know how to make a compost pit with their own hands. It is equally important to use it correctly throughout the season.

Loosen the compost with a pitchfork from time to time. This will help the oxygen to get inside and the waste to mix with each other.
Water the pile from time to time to maintain proper moisture levels.
Cover the contents with dark plastic wrap to create a greenhouse effect. When the pile is covered, the compost in it can mature even in 3-4 months.
Place earthworms in the prepared compost. They perfectly loosen the pile, recycle it.

Videos and articles on the Internet on the topic of building compost pits are more than enough. They all agree that with proper construction, the compost pit will be able to provide the owners of the site with very useful and almost free fertilizer.