How to seal a plastic water barrel. How to repair a broken plastic part? Glue! How to fix plastic

Plastic repair with help industrial hair dryer- the best and reliable option. Such a weld will not be inferior in strength to any other part of the part, and if with inside weld another thick layer, you get the strongest section on the entire part.

It may seem why other methods of restoring the plastic of moto and auto parts are needed, but everything is not so simple - you need to have the appropriate skills before undertaking repairs. Experts recommend trying on unnecessary plastic with a crack to “fill your hand” before taking directly on plastic repair motorcycle or car parts.

The first test will show that you most likely simply deform the part or under-weld the seam - such repairs will not bring any result. In addition to practice, a financial issue arises - to carry out such work, you will need the hairdryer itself, with the ability to adjust the air supply and adjust the temperature conditions - such a product will cost about 3-5 thousand rubles + special nozzles.

If such costs do not frighten the average user, then you can proceed directly to do-it-yourself plastic repair.

We select the necessary material and tools for plastic repair

For execution do-it-yourself plastic repair you will need the following materials:

Industrial dryer. Experts recommend using models from famous brands such as Makita, Bosh, HG, etc. Read the reviews and see for yourself - these models are very practical, durable and reliable. With them, you can safely repair plastic parts for several years. Some craftsmen use hair dryers for soldering radio components - they are ideal for soldering small cracks;
A set of special nozzles, with a diameter of 5 to 8 mm. In most cases, they are sold separately from the hair dryer itself. Depending on the brand, they can cost from 100 to 800 rubles. For example, on the same Makita, one nozzle costs about 600-700 rubles;
Solder plastic. It should be remembered that the plastic must be identical to the plastic of the part. It can be purchased at a specialized store or cut yourself using old identical parts. Usually, "store" solder is sold in coils - it is convenient and practical.

To repair plastic, you can use additional tools, such as:

Grinding machine - the master will need to grind the seam. It is not necessary to buy it, because sandpaper or a set of files is ideal for such purposes;
Several clips to secure the seam. They can be purchased at any building market.

If everything is completed, then you can safely proceed to the work.

Step by step instructions for plastic repair

Consider plastic repair step by step, so that it becomes clear even to an inexperienced repairman:

Initially, you should find out the composition of the material from which the damaged part is made. Pay special attention to the fact that the plastic of the solder must be identical to the plastic of the part being repaired. Given this factor, the craftsmen set the required temperature for heating the air - if the solder and the part itself do not match, one of the materials will not warm up well and simply fall off. Or overheating will happen and the part, like the solder, will “float”, which will lead to a disastrous result. The material index (marking of the plastic part) can be found by looking behind the back of the component being repaired. In most cases, there are three main types of plastic: PP ( polypropylene parts), ABS (acrylonitrile, butadiene and styrene products), and finally PA (polyamide parts);

Cleaning the part before repair work. Before starting restoration work, the edges of the crack in the damaged part must be carefully cleaned to get rid of protruding plastic teeth and chips. These manipulations are easy to perform with a file or sandpaper - experts recommend cleaning 5-10 mm from the edge of the fault on each side;

Part assembly. In the event that the part has crumbled into several separate pieces, the master will have to sweat and assemble the part in the manner of a puzzle. Each separate element will have to be cleaned around the edges and installed in its rightful place. So that the “assembly” does not fall apart, we fasten the entire mosaic with clamps (similar to small clothespins). Their cost is low and they can be easily obtained at any hardware store (the price does not exceed 70 rubles per 1 piece);

Welding work. We take one rod (solder), sharpen its tip and gently press it to the edge of the cleaned fracture. As it heats up, we begin to heat the solder and plastic. When set correctly temperature regime and the level of air supply, we begin welding work, warming up the twig and leaning it against the heated part. The jet of air itself will press the heated plastic, so you don’t need to do anything with your hands.

That's it, we have completed the repair work.

Brief summary

Now you know how to restore plastic part on their own, without resorting to specialists. After welding work it remains only to align the protruding welding to the level of the part and that's it. It remains only to paint the part and install it on a motorcycle or car.

Video - do-it-yourself plastic repair

In today's time, there are a lot of mechanisms around us that use plastic gears. Moreover, it can be like toy cars, and quite serious things, for example, an antenna lift in a car, a spinning gearbox, etc. The causes of gear breakage can be different, of course, most of them are associated with improper operation, but this is not about that now. If you have already found yourself in such a situation and you have broken a couple of gear teeth, then there is a way out how not to pay for an expensive part, but to restore it in a simple way.

Required for recovery

Unused toothbrush.
Detergent.
Two component epoxy adhesive - cold welding for plastic.

Glue cold welding should be liquid, in tubes. Be sure to look at the package for it to be suitable for gluing plastic and plastic parts. Such a two-component adhesive can be purchased at both an auto parts store and a hardware store. If you have any difficulties and you cannot find one, at the end of the article I will tell you how to make a similar analogue.

Plastic gear restoration

Training

The first step is to prepare the surface of the gear. We wash it many times warm water With detergent actively working with a toothbrush. Our task is to degrease and remove grease from all faces.
After degreasing is done, dry it dry.

Cooking glue

Now let's prepare the glue. Mix the components on a small piece of cardboard in proportion as in the instructions. Mix well.
In general, before opening the glue, I recommend that you carefully read its instructions, especially with the time of complete and partial hardening, since different manufacturers these data can be drastically different.
If the consistency turned out to be liquid, let it stand for a while until it begins to harden.

Tooth restoration

In my case, a few teeth were ground off, the situation is fixable. We smear glue on the place that needs to be restored. The glue should be very thick, but plastic.

We make such a kind of tubercle.

We put the gear on an impromptu stand so that the glue thickens even more. Everything is again individual, it took me personally about 20 minutes for the consistency to noticeably thicken.

You can speed up the reaction and reduce the thickening time by heating. For example, take a hair dryer and start heating the glue on the gear.

Tooth restoration

Now the most crucial moment - rolling the teeth. The node where the gear was operated, namely the other gear with which our broken one was in direct contact, must be liberally lubricated with grease, grease or lithol.
We install a broken gear and roll it several times over another.

As a result, another gear rolls a track on thick glue.

Now you understand that before rolling the teeth, the epoxy glue on the gear must harden to the consistency of hard plasticine.
Thanks to the lubrication, the glue will not stick to the other gear.

hardening

We carefully remove the restored do from the mechanism and leave it for final hardening, usually for a day.

In such a simple way, you can quite simply restore broken gears.

What is a substitute for epoxy?

If you have not found the glue, I can recommend that you make a slightly similar composition.
For this you will need:

Epoxy resin with hardener.
The cement is dry.

We buy the usual transparent or yellowish epoxy resin with a hardener. These two components are often sold together.
In the proportion indicated in the instructions, mix the components to obtain the right amount glue. Add cement. Not just cement-sand mixture, namely pure cement. The proportions are about two to one. That is, two parts of glue and one of cement. And mix everything very carefully. The glue is ready, and then everything is as per the instructions above.

Having broken plastic bumper on a VAZ car, the owner can relatively inexpensively purchase and install a new one, painted in a suitable color. The owners of foreign cars are not so lucky, plastic body kits for their cars are much more expensive. The way out is to repair the damaged part by repairing the crack with your own hands in order to save money. It is also useful for owners of Russian cars to know about ways to restore broken plastic, but not to buy new element due to small cracks.

Crack Filling Methods

Depending on the amount of damage and the type of plastic, the following cracked bumper methods are practiced:

cosmetic bonding with acetone and donor plastic;
gluing with modern chemical compounds;
fastening on epoxy resin with the use of fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
sealing the crack with a soldering iron reinforced with a metal mesh;
welding with a hot air gun and a plastic rod.

Reference. There is one simple method used by car enthusiasts who do not care too much about appearance cars. This is the connection of the edges of the crack with wire or staples from a stapler. This is a simple matter, so consider this technology it makes no sense, everything is clear.

The use of acetone for bonding, which can dissolve many types of plastics, is a temporary measure used to small cracks that appeared in the middle of the body kit. Its essence is this:

Pieces of plastic, similar in composition to the bumper material, are selected and dissolved in acetone to a thick consistency.
FROM back side the bumper crack is degreased and also treated with acetone in order to soften the surface.
The liquefied plastic is applied to the damage with reverse side, after which it freezes for several hours. Outside, the defect can be tinted with a corrector tube.

With the help of thick two-component compounds, sold in two tubes, any single cracks in most varieties of plastic are repaired. The exception is fiberglass body kits, they are glued together epoxy resin, and in case of serious damage, reinforcement with fiberglass mesh is used.

With numerous large cracks, breaks and holes in the bumper, gluing methods become ineffective. In such cases, soldering or welding with a hot air gun using a donor polymer material. After such a repair, the defect site is thoroughly cleaned and painted in the color of the car. At the end, it is necessary to do a full polishing of the bumper so that the painted area does not stand out against the background of the old coating.

Advice. If you got into an accident or collided with an immovable obstacle and broke through the body kit, try to collect all but the smallest pieces that flew off. This will allow you to use "native" plastic for repairs and not look for something similar.

The preparatory process is little different for various ways bonding and welding of polymer parts, so it should be considered separately. The first question is whether it is necessary to remove the bumper to make repairs. In most cases, dismantling is indispensable, since the plastic must be sealed on both sides. The exception is broken body kits, cracked in many places. They must first be fastened together, and then removed. Otherwise, after repair, the part may lose its shape, which is why the attachment points will not converge, and the gaps with adjacent elements will increase.

Reference. Often the body of the bumper comes off at the attachment points and small pieces of plastic remain on the screws. Before dismantling, such a part is securely welded to the torn mount and only then removed.

To prepare a damaged body kit for repair, you need the following tools and materials:

a set of keys and screwdrivers for removing the element;
electric grinder;
sandpaper of different grain sizes - from P180 to P320;
degreasing liquid - an organic solvent or white spirit;
rag.

Note. By using grinder you can clean up better and much faster than manually. This and other power tools that will be needed for painting and polishing can be rented for 2-3 days.

Regardless of whether work is carried out directly on the car or with the bumper removed, it must be thoroughly washed and dried. Then, with a large sandpaper, it is necessary to peel off the paint with an indent of 3-5 cm from the crack in each direction and sand the area of the fine sandpaper. Whatever method of repair you choose, the paint must be removed to the base, otherwise it will interfere with the adhesion of the adhesive or the fusion of polymers during welding. At the end, the area should be degreased.

Advice. The quality of body kit repair depends on the conditions in which it is made. It is more convenient to close up damage in a garage equipped with an inspection ditch for easy removal of the part and soldering loose fasteners in place.

Bonding with a two-component composition

For implementation this method you need to purchase the following bumper repair kit from 3M brand:

2 FPRM components for the preparation of a liquid polymer in tubes of 150 ml (price - about 2500 rubles);
special hard tape;
self-adhesive reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass (otherwise - fiberglass) 48 mm wide;
an adhesion initiator in an aerosol can;
2 spatulas - wide and narrow;
stationery knife;
gloves, goggles.

Reference. Similar kits are offered by other manufacturers, but the 3M brand is the most well-known and proven in practice.

Gluing liquid polymer suitable for most plastics and can be performed both with the body kit removed and on the car. True, the second option is rather inconvenient, plus you need good lighting in viewing hole. To cut a crack, you will need an electric drill (not a grinder!) With a mandrel for abrasive wheels. Repair consists of the following technological operations:

Using a low speed drill and an abrasive wheel, chamfer at an angle of about 30° along the edges of the crack on both sides. In cross section, it looks like this:<».
Degrease the area and allow the solvent to completely evaporate. On the front side of the bumper, where the paint was already cleaned at the preparatory stage, stick adhesive tape along the entire crack. It will serve as a kind of formwork when pouring a two-component solution.
Treat the damage site on the rear side of the body kit with an adhesion initiator from a balloon, then apply a self-adhesive glass canvas to the split.
Mix the components from the tubes in a 1:1 ratio with a spatula. Apply the liquid polymer to the mesh in several thin layers to avoid air pockets. Lay the mixture until it completely hides the glass canvas.
After laying the composition, allow it to cure for 30 minutes, then remove the tape from the front side and repeat the embedding operation (but without the mesh).
After hardening, grind the area with a grinder, using sandpaper P180, P240 and P400 in turn. This completes the plastic repair and you can start painting.

Important! After mixing the components, the composition must be used within 6 minutes, which is quite enough to apply to the damage on one side. The curing time of 30 minutes is correct for a room temperature of 21-23°C, therefore, when working in a cold room, it is necessary to organize local heating of the bumper (for example, with an infrared heater).

If irregularities are noticeable on the front side of the element, then before painting, apply a little putty intended for plastic to the differences. After drying, clean it with P1500 sandpaper, degrease and paint with a spray gun, having previously applied a layer of primer. After 1 day, polish the surface of the body kit.

Sealing with liquid polymer - photo

After cutting, manual cleaning of the crack is required The inner side of the body kit must also be sanded Cutting the edges of the crack at an angle Adhesive tape is glued on the front side Glass canvas is glued on the inside From the end you can see how the adhesive tape limits the outflow of the composition outward when applied 2 components are squeezed onto the spatula in the same amount Mixing the components with a spatula The composition is rubbed into the gap and the mesh with a spatula. After hardening and removing the adhesive tape, the sealed joint is cleaned. This is how a sealed crack in plastic looks like

Video instruction on the use of the composition 3M

Repair with fiberglass

The technology is used to repair damage to body kits made of fiberglass, since the previous technique is not suitable in this case. What is required for work:

fiberglass for bumper repair;
polyester (epoxy) resin complete with hardener;
soft brush;
stationery knife or scissors;
rubber gloves.

Advice. If a bulge or depression has formed at the point of impact, immediately after stripping, level it using a building hair dryer for heating.

Since fiberglass patches will have to be applied on both sides of the damaged area, it is better to dismantle the bumper from the car. Having completed all the preparatory work, including stripping paint and degreasing, proceed in the following sequence:

Using a grinder with coarse sandpaper (P80-P120), make a recess in the body of the bumper from the front side, covering a radius of 3-5 cm from the crack. This is necessary so that the fiberglass overlay does not protrude beyond the plane of the part.
On the back side, make a stripping with a large sandpaper, but without deepening. Degrease the area and let it dry.
Cut out the fiberglass patches. On the front part, you need to make a neat patch that repeats the shape of the recess, and from the rear, you can glue a rectangular overlay.
Mix the resin with the hardener in the proportions indicated on the packaging. Apply the composition with a brush to the surface, apply a patch (you can in several layers) and impregnate it with resin.
Accurately keep the time specified for curing the epoxy compound (written on the resin container), then carefully clean the repair area with fine sandpaper. The task is to level the surface by removing the protrusions.

Note. Coarse-grained sandpaper is initially used to create a roughness on the surface of the plastic, which contributes to better adhesion of the polyester adhesive.

On this, the repair work of the plastic itself is over, then cleaning, priming and painting are carried out according to standard technology. The last operation is bumper polishing, it is necessary to give the element a uniform shine.

Photo of fiberglass body kit repair

Video about sealing defects with fiberglass

Soldering large bumper damage

Numerous cracks, breaks and torn off elements of the bumper are repaired by thermal methods, in particular, by soldering. To perform this painstaking work, a small set of tools and materials is required:

a soldering iron with a power of at least 100 W with a wide tip and a wooden handle;
thin metal mesh specially designed for thermal bonding of plastic parts;
knife, wire cutters for processing broken segments;
screw clamp;
sandpaper with fine and coarse grain for cleaning seams.

Note. The process of soldering serious defects can take hours. During this time, the plastic handle of the soldering iron will warm up so much that it will become difficult to hold the tool with your hand.

In preparation for soldering, the paint must be removed to the base not only from cracks, but also from torn off pieces of the bumper. Moreover, in this case, the body kit is not removed from the machine until all the gaps are fastened together and fixed by soldering, otherwise the element will lose its exact shape.

Soldering technology is implemented in the following sequence:

After stripping, wipe the area with a degreaser and let it evaporate.
Align the edges of the cracks and, if necessary, fix them in this position with clamps.
With a heated soldering iron, make tacks along the length of all cracks. For high-quality heating, the sting must be immersed in plastic to a depth equal to half the thickness of the material, and then the surface of the molten plastic should be leveled. The distance between the tacks is 1.5-2 cm.
When tacks are made on all cracks, it is necessary to put the broken piece in place. Fit it to the hole and, if necessary, cut it so that it fits into the hole flush with the surface.
Solder the torn segment on the tacks, then repeat the operation from the inside. After that, the bumper can be carefully removed from the car and continue to work in more comfortable conditions, although this is not necessary, as it is convenient for anyone.
Perform solid soldering of all joints on both sides of the body kit. So that adjacent tacks do not diverge from heating, the seam must be soldered with gaps. That is, first the first section between the tacks is welded, then the third, fifth, seventh and so on. When finished, go back and solder any remaining sections.
Cut the mesh into pieces 2-4 cm long. They need to be soldered across the seam in the most stressed places - along the edges of the cracks, in the middle, at the junction and near the stiffeners. The technology is simple: a steel mesh is placed on the seam and, heated by a soldering iron, is immersed in the polymer base of the bumper. At the end, the softened plastic above the mesh must be smoothed out.

Important! When soldering the edges of the plastic, you need to hold it still and give it time to solidify. If you release the part ahead of time, the seam will open.

At the end of the soldering procedure, sand the surface of the element, then degrease and paint it in the desired color. During further operation, be more careful, because from a strong blow the bumper can shatter into pieces, tearing in the same places. To fasten it stronger, you should use another method - welding with donor plastic.

Photo instructions for soldering the bumper

All joints are carefully cleaned of paint Bonding the crack with tacks The fracture is now held on by tacks The broken piece is clearly adjusted to the opening The fragment is also fixed with tacks All seams are fixed at several points Completely soldered joints All soldering operations are repeated from the inside of the bumper

How to solder the front body kit - video

hot air welding

This is a more efficient way of connecting polymer parts, used not only for repairing bumpers, but also for restoring a variety of plastic products. It allows you to securely fasten the elements, spending much less time on work than when soldering. To use this technology, you need to prepare the same tools with materials as for soldering, excluding the metal mesh. In addition, it will be needed for repairs.

Plastic has many advantages, but it also has one significant drawback - fragility. Plastic products may crack, break, pieces may break off, etc. If the damage is significant, then the thing is easier to throw away and buy a new one than to repair it, but minor damage is quite possible to fix it yourself. Restoration of plastic can be carried out by different methods, the choice of which largely depends on the type of plastic itself. On many plastic products, you can find markings with the composition of the plastic and this will help in choosing a recovery technology. So, thermoplastics are glued with a special glue, and thermoplastics are sealed. Also, the method of repairing plastic products also depends on the nature of the damage - a crack, a scratch, a chip, etc.

When repairing plastic items, the following materials and tools may be needed: solvents (for example, acetone), sanding paper No. 1000, soldering iron or glue for plastic, clamps, abrasive paste, brushes or syringe, solder, plastic cleaner, brass mesh, primer and paint for plastic, grinder, varnish.

Repair plastic with glue

Before starting the restoration, the plastic is treated with sanding paper, removing dirt. It is also necessary to degrease the place of gluing.
Glue is applied to the crack or seam with a brush or syringe. If necessary, parts of the plastic to be glued can be reinforced with fiberglass.
Next, combine the parts so that they do not move and at the same time tightly pressed against each other. For best results, you can use a clamp.

Soldering plastic repair

Repairing plastic with epoxy

For this method, you will need an epoxy pier and a hardener, fiberglass or serpentine tape (sold in hardware stores), acetone, castor oil, a file and sanding paper, electrical tape or tape, plastic utensils and wooden sticks, primer for plastic, polyester putty, car enamel.

In everyday life, many faced such a problem as broken plastic products. These items rarely lend themselves to any kind of repair with their own hands, it is more reliable to glue them. You can decide how to glue plastic tightly by considering the best adhesives for various types and gluing technology.

Glue for plastic (click to enlarge)

Determine the type of plastic

Before gluing plastic, it is important to first determine the type of material of the broken item. This is important to do in order to better glue the plastic and not spoil the product - many adhesives are solvents for plastic parts.

Most often, the manufacturer labels its products with a recycling symbol, by which you can determine the type of plastic. It is a triangle with traced arrows on the edges, inside there are numbers from 1 to 7.

Another designation of the brand is the letter symbols inside or next to the triangle. Knowing these designations, it is possible to determine the type of plastic, after which the adhesive for plastic is suitable for it.

Marking

1 or PET is polyethylene terephthalate. The main area of application is food packaging. It is used in the manufacture of artificial fibers, plastic packaging for liquid foods, films.

2 or HDPE - high density polyethylene using low pressure technology. It is used in the production of shrink film and packaging bags.

3 or PVC - polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is used in the manufacture of linoleum and plastic windows.

Watch the video to find out more:

4 or LDPE - low density polyethylene using high pressure technology. Food plastic, bags, wrappers and bottles, greenhouse film, packaging containers, toys for children, pipes are made from it.

5 or PP - polypropylene, due to its inertness and heat resistance (it can be kept under hot steam and boiled), is widely used in the production of food packaging. The material is widely used in medicine (disposable syringes, catheters), in the production of household appliances, heat-resistant dishes and plastic pipes for hot water supply.

6 or PS - polystyrene. Disposable tableware (cups for foodstuffs), internal plastic lining of refrigeration devices are made from this type. When foaming expanded polystyrene, a porous insulating material (polystyrene) is obtained, which is widely used in construction and production.

7 or O (Other) - materials that are not recyclable (combine a combination of foil, paper and polymeric materials) or not included in the previous groups.

One way to determine the brand of plastic in the absence of a sign is a burn test. Each material burns in its own way and with a different smell, from which its type can be determined.

Labeling of adhesives

In addition to plastic, adhesives for plastics are marked with symbols, although this designation rarely coincides with recycling marking symbols. To know how to glue plastics, the following letters are affixed to the adhesives to indicate the materials to be glued:

Designation for plastics (click to enlarge)

polycarbonate - PC;
acrylonitrile copolymer - ABS;
polypropylene - PP;
organic glass - PMMA;
polyethylene - PE;
polyvinyl chloride - PVC;
polystyrene - PS;
polyamide - RA 66;
polyurethane - PUR.

Often it does not make sense to look for markings on the packaging of the adhesive, it is enough to study the instructions in Russian, which clearly explains what types of materials the adhesive is intended for and how to glue the plastic.

Types of adhesives

Plastic products have a lot of types and are widely used in everyday life, so gluing plastic can be done with a wide range of adhesives and different methods.

One of the gluing methods is softening the surfaces of the parts to be glued with a suitable solvent (dichloroethane for plexiglass or polystyrene), after joining the seam is reliably soldered. In a similar way, you can prepare glue with your own hands by dissolving plastic small chips.

Types of good plastic adhesives (click to enlarge)

Liquid

Popular household adhesives are easy to use and come in two forms: solvent-based or water-based. The principle of operation of the first is as follows: water or solvent evaporates from the glue applied to the top of the plastic parts, the glue seam dries with further hardening, due to which the parts hold tightly.

These adhesives can bond plastic to porous materials that allow air to pass through, otherwise the water and solvent will not evaporate and the adhesive will not cure.

In everyday life and industry, a good liquid PVA glue is known, which is widely used in furniture production for reliable gluing of artificial films on wooden surfaces; in the construction industry, linoleum is often glued to PVA. Other liquid adhesives are made on the basis of rubber resins, in this case the solvents are methyl acetate, alcohol, acetone.

Contact

The name was obtained because of the principle of gluing: before sticking plastic to plastic, the surfaces of both glued products are smeared with glue and after 10-15 minutes they are firmly pressed against each other. There are two types: with a hardener and without a hardener, the best known brands are BF-2 (4), Moment, rubber glue.

On the video you will learn how to use contact adhesives:

Adhesives include toxic materials, so at home, before gluing plastic, it is necessary to ensure the ventilation of the room.

Reactive Adhesives

There are one-component and two-component types. The former, when applied to the surface to be bonded, harden very quickly from interaction with oxygen or water vapor. These types include the well-known "Second", "Superglue" and other analogues capable of sealing to obtain a rigid and durable seam.

Two-component have a hardener and fixer, which are located separately from each other. Before being used for gluing, they are connected and after application to the surfaces to be glued, under the influence of environmental conditions, they gradually begin to harden and glue the parts. Their basis is various resins, the most famous types are polyurethane, epoxy, polyester.