It is very possible that you already do not have enough sockets in the apartment and there is a desire to add a few pieces, especially if renovation is underway. How and with what to drill a niche for socket boxes? Do I need to buy an expensive bit or get by with punch drills? You will learn more about this later in this article.

Crowns for socket boxes

For cutting holes or niches for socket boxes in a brick wall, an inexpensive crown - the best way... Brick is a very soft material compared to concrete or titanium.
It is unlikely that you will need to install sockets in a titanium wall. It is unlikely that you have a titanium wall in your apartment. But concrete is likely. To drill holes for flush mounts in concrete, you need a very good bit and a good hammer drill, at least with an active anti-bite system. Otherwise, you run the risk of dislocating your hand with an inexpensive but powerful Chinese puncher. This is possible if the crown is bitten in concrete. And the power of the perforator is 950-1200 watts. will provide you with a visit to a traumatologist. A hammer drill of less power simply will not cope with the task.

You can, of course, buy a crown of thousands for 5-6 rubles. And a puncher, thirty thousand. Drill a couple of holes, break its teeth and curse the hour you made these purchases. But if you need to install only 10-12 socket outlets, it is easier and cheaper to use a conventional punch drill and a chisel for it. And there is no need to buy an expensive puncher, which amazes us in the videos on You Tube.

First, let's examine for installation in concrete or brick. They have no significant differences. In principle, for a single socket or switch, you can purchase absolutely any socket. If you need to install several sockets in a row, then it is better to buy models that connect to an infinite number of socket boxes. On sale you can also find ready-made "double", "triple" and "quadruple" socket boxes. Their construction is stiffer than those connected in a chain. It is easier to mount them in the wall due to their rigidity of maintaining the plane, but they also cost several times more. In general, the choice is yours. I will show using the example of cheap socket boxes.

Layout of socket boxes

So, you want to relocate a switch, an outlet, or relocate an outlet and add more.

First, of course, you should decide how many sockets or, as they say, "places" will be located in one place or another. The basic principle here is: "There are no many outlets!" Let me remind you that both power outlets (220 V) and low-current ones, that is, telephone, television and for the Internet, can be combined into one line. Low-current sockets are best placed on the edge of the power ones. This makes it more convenient and correct to pull the wire. The distance between the power and low-current wires should be at least some (just kidding). In general, these cables should not be laid side by side to avoid exposure to electromagnetic fields. V best case, antenna, telephone or wire for the Internet must be in a shielded sheath. And the closest distance between them will be the two sockets they come to with different sides... Then, guaranteed, your Internet will be spared the trouble in the form electromagnetic waves... I will add that 15 cm. Between the shielded low current cable and power cable 220V sufficient distance for normal work TV and the Internet. Tested by experience. For those who are not enough with my statements, they can refer to the special literature.
So, you have decided how many outlets you will have in this place of the wall. I do not recommend more than five. You simply won't find a bar that combines six outlets. I was not lucky enough to meet one on this planet. But you might get lucky.

Next, you need to choose a place for the location of these very outlets. Here, the most correct thing would be not to adhere to some mythical rules and norms, but to do as it is more convenient for you. To make it convenient to turn on the plug and pull out if necessary. So as not to look for sockets under the table, bed or behind the closet. But even in the most conspicuous place, like a picture, you should not install either. I am sure that you are able to solve this problem on your own. The article is not about that.
Draw a strictly horizontal line along the level. Lean your flip-flops face-down against the wall, centering along the line, and trace around them with a pencil. Step back and admire. There will be sockets first, and then the sockets themselves.

Hollowing out a niche for socket boxes

Load a 6-8 mm drill into the hammer drill. and drill, slightly beyond the markings of the contour of the socket boxes, holes with a depth of 6 cm.

It is better to immediately drill 5-8 mm wider than the mark. When gouging, the chisel will tend to the center, forming a tapered niche. It will be difficult to get the edges inside the niche. Make the niche wider.

Everything that will be inside the contour must be hollowed out with a chisel, replacing it with a drill in a hammer drill. To facilitate gouging, drill additional holes also in the center of the marked contour of the flush plates, thereby weakening the concrete. The whole point of this action is to dilute and weaken the bonds of concrete molecules, if only it consists of molecules. Here, the more holes, the easier and faster will go through the process selection of the breed. Feel like a miner!

If you come across reinforcement, then it will not be difficult to cut it out with a grinder. When you decide that you have worked hard enough, insert the socket outlets into the niche, check their location along the horizontal level and along the plane of the wall. They should be sunk into the wall with a small margin for the plaster mortar to which they will be fixed.
A small digression. If you are going to plaster the wall, leveling it into a plane and a vertical level, then the plane of the socket boxes should be leveled along the applied layer of plaster. And if the layer is supposed to be large, then you will have to gouge less in depth.
I prefer to gouge a niche for the wall boxes before applying the plaster. I do not want to spoil an already flat wall with such destructive effects. Pieces of concrete are torn off unevenly and pulled out along with the plaster. It hurts my eyes and nerves unpleasantly.
I do this. First I gouge, then I plaster. Then I "freeze" the socket boxes, leveling them along the plane of the plastered wall. If leveling with a plaster layer is not required, then I level it along the existing plane, as in this example.

Slitting walls for wiring

Now we need strobe for the wire. Draw horizontal and vertical lines from the groove you created to where you intend to connect the new wire. In this case, this is the old outlet, which it was decided to get rid of. According to the rules, you should not make the strobe diagonally. This makes it easier to remember the location of the wire hidden under the layer of putty or plaster. If you believe Pythagoras, then the diagonal is much shorter, and if you do not intend to subsequently drill a wall in this place, then do as your mind tells you. Just in case, the grooves with wires can be photographed by adding distances from the corner and from the floor level to the photo.
Gouge concrete can also be drilled 10 mm deep. and the same diameter according to the marking of the groove, that is, apply perforation with a perforator. Then, with the same drill, drill through all the partitions between the holes, making a continuous groove. It is easier, of course, with a wall chaser, but you hardly have one.
Having drilled out under the wire, do not forget to drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm in the groove. under the dowel a clamp securing the wire. After that, it is necessary to sweep out all the dust from the niche and grooves and prime it. After the primer is dry, you can start attaching the wire.

Fastening the wire for the socket in the strobe

It is convenient to fix the wire in the strobe using dowel clamps. In the places where the wire enters the socket, use a knife to get rid of the outer insulation that unites the wires into the cable so that the insulated wires enter the socket separately. So, later, it will be easier to mount the sockets themselves, and in the present - to fix the socket boxes. For the convenience of installing the outlets themselves, leave the wire with a margin, then you can cut it off. It will be worse if you don't have enough wire. At the entrance to the socket, make the strobe a little deeper so that the wire does not squeeze the socket out of the fresh solution. Each socket has a place for the entry of wires. Make sure in advance that the strobe fits exactly to this place. Of course, the holes for the wire entry should be broken out in the socket boxes. They are visually easy to distinguish, it is impossible to make a mistake, unless you are crazy. But, in this case, you are unlikely to take up this business. Crazy people don't install socket boxes, and this fills our hearts with compassion for them.

How to fix the socket boxes

Fix, or, as they say else, " freeze»In the place of her further and lifelong stay, you can use any solution. The easiest way to do this is with gypsum plaster. I, in most cases, use the same one that I use to plaster the walls. "Rotband" - that's how it is called. Do not use stucco (alabaster). It will grab faster than you set the desired position. Prepare a solution. The more gaps you need to fill between the edges of the box, the thicker and harder the solution is. One socket is easier to fix than several in the assembly. It is easier to align it with the plane of the wall and with the horizontal level. Before final installation, check if the socket boxes fit easily into the niche and whether the wire interferes with their correct position. If necessary, you can use a grinder or metal scissors to slightly increase the holes for the entry of wires.

Thoroughly coat the inner walls of the niche with mortar and fill the niche with 2/3 plaster. After that, press your socket outlets into the solution, squeezing the excess out. As soon as you achieve a clear position, level the mortar along the plane of the wall and let it harden. In the meantime, you can fill the strobe with a wire with a solution.

The installation boxes serve as the basis for the sockets, therefore they must be installed in compliance with all proportions. After choosing a socket that is suitable in shape and size, you need to start marking the territory, preparing fasteners or a mixture and installing the structure.

The first stage of installation of socket boxes: markup and rules for the location of the installation box

When marking, it is necessary to comply with the PUE standards:

1. Plug-in sockets can be installed in any room, except for washing, shower rooms and saunas.
2. You must first connect the power supply to the grounding loop or lightning rod.
3. The outlet must be removed from water bodies at least 60 cm.
4. It is advisable to install power wiring in the living room or hall.
5. The shield must be protected by a difavtomat or similar device.

Cut out holes in drywall for the installation of socket outlets

Advice! It is advisable to bring the cable to the outlet from the bottom position. This method guarantees safety for the electrical network, since when condensation forms, drops cannot flow into the device, which is powered by electrical energy... This rule must be strictly observed if the socket is installed incorrectly, as a result of which a gap has formed between the wall and the protective frame.

Prices for socket boxes

socket

Installation rules for socket boxes

If the location of the wiring passes through the partition and is masked by the cladding, then the connection of wires in such places is prohibited. The creation of jumpers in this case is possible only in boxes where the section of hidden electrical wiring ends.

Care must be taken when inserting the cable into the socket. A strobe is formed under it, which must exactly correspond to the contours of this installation. After cable installation, all gaps are filled with plaster, cement or similar mortar.

To reduce the cost of conducting an electrical network and installing socket outlets, it is necessary to correctly position the power line:

1. On the surface it is planned conventional line, along which the shortest path of movement of the electrodes can be carried out. The best location of the installation box must be calculated.
2. Through the marked point, you need to draw horizontal and vertical lines. They are drawn using a square and a plumb line. Lines can be formed with an ordinary pencil.
3. From the central point of intersection of these lines, it is necessary to set aside a distance equal to the radius of the socket boxes.
4. The installation box is attached to the wall, turning over to the surface with its front part.
5. The marked points must be compared with the contour of the installation box and draw its outline.

When it is planned to use crowns on a concrete or stone surface, it is not necessary to outline the contours of the socket box, since the gap in the structure is made one-time using a perforator and a drill. Select a drill with a special tip about Ø 6 mm in diameter. The recommended depth of the lumen is about 7 cm. When the hole formation procedure is completed, insert a crown with a drill mounted in it into the resulting space and form a full recess for installing the socket.

The crown should be chosen in advance, focusing on the parameters of the socket. This element should have a small diameter compared to the socket. It should be borne in mind that in finished structure are required to fit the sockets.

Video - detailed information on the installation of socket boxes

Installation of socket outlets in a concrete or brick structure

For the correct installation of the socket boxes, it is necessary to carry out the following actions:

Step 1. The groove compartment near the socket is deeply deepened or a line mowing is undertaken. This is necessary for the cable to fit exactly into the designated connector.

Step 2. A recess is made in the socket for cable entry. It forms exactly under required size to eliminate the likelihood of hitting mortar when installing the socket. It must be ensured that it is optimal in order to pass a certain number of wires into it, given their braiding. To deepen the holes, it is advisable to use a knife preheated over an open fire. This device provides the greatest guarantee that the component parts of the socket will not break or deform.

Step 3. If purchased versatile design the socket, then before installing it, you need to remove the special legs intended for fastening.

Step 4. The recess in the surface for installing the socket box must first be freed from debris and dust. This can be done by hand, but it is more effective to use a brush or small cloth. It is advisable to prime the concrete or moisten it with water before installing the structure. If you neglect this rule, moisture from alabaster will quickly pass into concrete, which will lead to its hardening too quickly.

Advice! Before installing the socket, you need to pay attention to the parameters of the socket. There are options that do not fit into a Ø 5 cm socket. If such a situation arises, you will need a universal socket. It has a diameter that fits any socket.

Step 5. A small rigid container is required for mounting the socket. Alabaster should be kneaded in it. You need a small spatula to work. If not, a trowel can be used, but the edges should be sharp. With the help of these elements, alabaster can be quickly laid inside.

Advice! Alabaster should be used in small quantities, as large volumes of material will quickly harden and become useless. The resulting mixture should be like thick sour cream, but you should not make the solution too liquid so that it does not drain from the wall.

Alabaster prices

alabaster

Step 6. The mixture is applied in a thin layer along the walls. After that, you should immediately install the socket box. It is necessary to mount the structure carefully, without bringing the element to the stop, since the alabaster should remain not only near the side walls, but also from the back. The indentation of the structure into the wall is excluded, because of this, the fastening may weaken. To check the correct location of the installation box, you need to use the building level. This should be done immediately after installation, since after a short period of time the alabaster will completely dry out and any correction of the socket will become impossible.

Using alabaster to install the socket

When the socket is installed in a block or brick wall, you need to use the installation technology described above. It should be remembered that the use of crowns is not recommended, as in concrete blocks they can be exposed to vibration, which will cause the holes to expand. If a decision is made to install them, care must be taken to create a more massive layer of alabaster.

Advice! Under the influence of time, the sockets can gradually come out of the recesses. To avoid this inconvenience, the structure is fixed with screws in the holes specially designed for this. Additional fastenings can be made only if the exact vertical or horizontal arrangement of the fastening holes, which must be adjusted during the installation of the structure.

Installation of socket outlets in wood and drywall

Step 1. To deepen the installation box into wooden wall, a crown must be used. To fasten the structure, the legs of the socket box are used. No alabaster mix is ​​needed. Special legs are tightened so that the structure fits freely into the recess developed for it, and then screwed on, tightly fixing the element in the wall. The cable can only be brought in after the end installation works, after covering it with a corrugation or metal hose.

The process of installing a socket box

Advice! Before laying the cable, you must disconnect this element from the mains and check that the switches are in the off state. As soon as the cable is inserted into the socket, it is necessary to separate all the wires and install the socket. If it will be installed later, the ends of the cable should be insulated.

Step 2. Installation of socket outlets in plasterboard walls has its own differences. You need to purchase installation boxes that are specifically designed for this surface. Ideally, they have round contours without protrusions or recesses. It is easiest to form a completely circular hole in a drywall sheet.

Step 3. The socket is applied to the drywall in a predetermined place, after which its contours are outlined. A hole is formed using a crown 5 cm in diameter. If there is no such element, use a thin sharp knife or a small piece of a hacksaw. With the help of such a tool, a small hole is formed, which is deliberately made smaller than planned.

Step 4. You need to attach a socket box to the resulting recess and try to install it. It is impossible to deepen it, but you can easily define everything problem areas that prevent the element from being inserted into the wall. The excess contours are little by little cut out until a perfect hole is reached, after which the installation box can be placed inward.

Nuances at work

• When the fixing is carried out, it is necessary to control the fluidity, that is, the consistency of the mixture. To properly install the box, a composition of moderate density is required, since a viscous mixture cannot penetrate into all compartments of the structure.
• When using a cement composition, it is difficult to drown the socket to the required level manually, so you have to knock it out with a hammer. This action must be done carefully so as not to provoke the formation of chips on the product.
• When gypsum is used as a mixture for installing a socket, the work must be done quickly. You should not be distracted and take breaks until the main installation and initial alignment have been carried out, since gypsum tends to harden quickly.
• The correct consistency can only be determined if there is personal experience... For the installation of the socket, different people need a special consistency, since the same mixture in the hands of each master gives different results.

Not worth applying gypsum plaster for the installation of installation boxes, since working with this material is complicated by problematic situations:

1. The plaster dries almost instantly and adheres tightly to the trowel, which requires regular wetting.
2. The mixture does not freeze synchronously, so when certain areas harden, some of them still need to dry. If you start leveling the surface too early, it can deform the structure.

Video - installation of socket outlets in a concrete and brick wall

In order to properly install the socket outlet and ensure its successful use, it is advisable to purchase sockets and switches along with this element, checking that they fit together. You can install the installation box into any wall, if you follow the listed tips, carry out necessary actions quickly and accurately.

Home electrification is one of the main steps in creating ideal living conditions. But supplying electricity does not mean that everything will be reliable. A lot of things depend on how the installation of the socket boxes is carried out in concrete wall, or in drywall. They are also called installation boxes. Without socket outlets, it is impossible to make normal sockets that will hold even under heavy loads. Let's talk about what work needs to be done and what is required to install these elements.

What are socket boxes and their types

Socket boxes are special boxes made of certain materials (plastic, metal, etc.). These elements are used when installing electrical points (sockets) on the walls. The main purpose of the socket outlet is to refine the hole in the wall and at the same time they make it suitable for the further installation of sockets or switches.

Additionally, the socket boxes are also used when lowering or moving the sockets as a junction box. This makes it possible to carry out all the work as conveniently as possible, without making additional holes in the wall and without taking out the old wiring. Socket boxes can now be found on store shelves round, square, rectangular and with rounded edges.

Various socket outlets

Previously, all socket boxes were made of metal. They were called casings and were used everywhere. To date, metal socket boxes are used only in wooden houses, where conditions must be observed fire safety... Among the disadvantages of such sleeves are:

• very weak fastening of sockets and switches;
• the sleeves do not adhere well to the solution, which leads to the loss of the outlet;
• there is also a good chance of damaging the wires with sharp edges.

When to install?

To be honest, there are practically no restrictions for the installation of socket boxes within the time frame. They can be installed both before the start of work and after their completion. The only exceptions are walls that have not yet been plastered. It is also not recommended to install the socket outlets in a concrete wall after pasting it with wallpaper, there is a high probability of damaging the coating itself.

Some electricians decide to save their time and know in advance the thickness of the plaster layer. To be honest, this method is rather dubious, since exact values no one can say and subsequently there is a high probability that the outlet will stick out strongly from the wall, or vice versa - it will be recessed into it.

According to the rules, sockets, like junction boxes, should be mounted flush with the wall, or go into it no more than 2 mm.

Using socket holes

Markup

The marking of the route includes the designation of the locations of the outlets. They are determined by comparison with the project or wiring diagram.

The socket box is mounted in concrete only after the hole has been formed using a crown or a perforator with a lance. Fixation is done using building mixture(alabaster, putty, etc.). The locations of the sockets are marked as follows:

1. From the very beginning, it is required to mark the required vertical distance from the floor on the wall. If we take by the standards, then all sockets should be located no higher than 40 cm, and the switches should be approximately 90 cm high.
2. Next, a socket is applied and traced along the contour with a marker or pencil.
3. A crown is selected according to the size of the socket and a hole is drilled.

Drilling process

There are several ways to make a hole. The choice of tools depends entirely on the material of the wall. The easiest way is to make indentations in foam concrete and other porous concrete. One of the hardest materials to use is conventional monolithic concrete.

Holes for fittings can be made in three ways:

1. With a special crown;
2. Using a drill (a wall is drilled around the perimeter and then broken out);
3. With a hammer and chisel.

Creating a hole for sockets

As already mentioned, making holes in concrete with your own hands is the hardest thing. For this reason this method we will consider in as much detail as possible.

For making indentations, the crowns are not used, which can be used to work on porous concrete and drywall. This requires a heavy-duty diamond-coated tip. This guarantees its durability. Additionally, a high-alloyed metal is used in the form of a base. Although such crowns are effective, their cost is quite high. So not everyone can afford such a thing.

Additionally, it should be noted that making indentations using this technique takes a lot of time. The instrument itself gets very hot and needs to be given a rest. For these reasons, punching 30-40 holes can take 2-3 days, which is a fairly high rate. To save time, it is much better to make holes along the contour with a drill and then knock out the concrete with a chisel yourself.

Installation and termination of socket boxes

The process of carrying out work on the installation of socket boxes is carried out in a certain sequence. Observing it, you can carry out the work efficiently and without further alterations. So, the method of work is as follows:

Then just wait about an hour and you can use the socket for its intended purpose. This instruction will allow the installation to be carried out as correctly as possible and at the same time it will take a minimum of time to complete. Even with independent work there should be no difficulties.

Things to Remember

The very first thing to remember is that the consistency of the mixture plays a very important role in the embedding. It should be moderately thick, since otherwise it simply will not flow into all the holes and will not create the necessary adhesion. A highly liquid consistency will also not allow you to work fully, since it will simply flow out of the hole.

Do not use hammer blows to install. There is a high chance of damage to the box. And there will be little effect from this. It is best to use plaster of paris to seal the hole. You can also use gypsum plaster, but its application requires knowledge of some rules.

The first step is good adhesion to the spatula, which requires frequent wetting. Gypsum does not have such properties and it is much easier to spread it on the socket. The second is uneven solidification. So, if the top is already dry, then inside there is a high probability of material flow. This leads to the fact that by leveling the socket, it is possible to deform the surface, which is already flat.

Drywall installation method

The installation of socket outlets in a concrete wall is slightly different from the sequence of work on a surface exposed with plasterboard. The fact is that the element will be located in the space between the wall and the sheets, where there is no place to cling to. The installation sequence is carried out by the following cut:

1. From the very beginning, you need to determine where the wires go and drill a hole with a crown.
2. We bring the wires out and insulate them.
3. Next, we stretch the ends of the wires through the socket box and screw it to the drywall. At the same time, the adjusting screws allow the special legs to diverge, and the sleeve is fastened tightly.

If the plasterboard is attached to the wall using a building mixture, then there are also some nuances here. Although this is rarely done, there are times when this method is the only way out. So, first you need to prepare two crowns: for drywall and concrete. First, take the first one and cut through the sheet. Next, we change it to a diamond bit and make a depression in the concrete. It should be borne in mind that in this case, shallow ones must be used to minimize the cost of power. After drilling, you need to knock out everything that remains in the recess and then the embedding is done in the same way as in a regular concrete wall.

As a rule, the installation of the socket boxes does not take much time and is not difficult. For this reason, they can be performed independently without the involvement of specialists. Be sure to stock up on several power tools in the form of a punch or drill. This will make it possible to resolve the issue of cooling, since while the first "unit" is working, the second will rest, and so on in turn.

Socket Is a plastic cylinder that is mounted into the wall for the subsequent installation of sockets or switches in it. There are typesetting sockets (as in the picture) and doubles, triples, quadruples, etc.

Installation of socket outlets in concrete walls

Socket boxes also differ in the type of installation: for monolithic bases and for sheet materials. Standard sizes socket: diameter 60 mm, depth 40 mm.

Consider mounting a socket into a monolithic base.

First of all, you need to decide where the socket box will be located, decide how many pieces you need and choose the height from the floor.

If you make sockets for sockets, then the recommended height is 25-50 cm from the floor, if sockets for switches, then the height is 90-120 cm from the floor.

Also, it is necessary to think over which side the electric wire will be supplied from in order to correctly make holes in the socket box.

In the example, the wire is fed into one socket from the top.

Then it is necessary to knock out a recess in the wall according to the size of the socket boxes, so that they are flush with the wall. It is best to knock out with a hammer drill with a lance attachment.

You can also use the grinder with diamond disc to cut along the contour, and then punch out the middle with a puncher. In this case, you will get an even, neat depression, but there will be a lot of dust from this method.

Putty or tile glue is suitable to glue the flush plates. If you want to immediately start installing the wiring, then I recommend using alabaster (stucco), the setting time is about 5 minutes.

In our example, putty is used.

We dilute it with water, and apply it with a spatula into the groove.

We take the socket outlets and insert them into the recess, but not very much.

With the help of a level, we recessed the socket outlets flush with the wall.

We press the level horizontally and vertically to each socket.

Align the socket boxes horizontally. We use the holes for the self-tapping screws on the socket housing as a guide, apply a level and align. If you have more than three socket outlets, then you also need to make sure that they do not bend, all the holes for the screws should be on the same straight line.

Having set it up, we cover the edges, leaving a small non-smeared area on top for laying the wire.

After laying, the wires can be covered completely.

In the same way, you can install any number of socket outlets.

Installation of socket outlets in hollow structures.

Consider an example of attaching a socket to a ventilation unit.

The thickness of the walls of this block is about 3 cm, which is unlikely to allow installing the socket on the putty, but, as you know, there are no hopeless situations.

We cut a hole with a grinder with a diamond disc according to the size of the socket boxes.

Using pebbles, pieces of drywall and all sorts of crap, we expose the socket boxes according to the level.

Now carefully foam the edges using polyurethane foam.

We stretch the wire and foam it to the end.

After the foam has completely hardened, cut off the excess.

And the last thing that I have not yet mentioned is the fastening of the socket boxes to drywall or other sheet materials.

This will require a crown of the required diameter, as well as special socket boxes.

You can define them by appearance, they have two additional hooks along the edges.

In order to install them, it is enough to drill a hole equal to the outer diameter of the socket, insert it, and then tighten two screws along the edges, until the socket is completely pressed against the surface.

That's all.

Happy editing :)

How to install a socket into a concrete wall

When it is renovated, it’s time to begin to understand where we will have furniture, what place will be for a TV or refrigerator ... And it often turns out that a new location for some devices that are not equipped with an outlet leads to the next one not being worn, not stretching.

"In general, why do you need these housing transfers?" Think.

Then an order appears - to install a socket. But the wall is made of strong Soviet concrete: hitting the chisel won't work here, it's not brick. But it does not matter! Armed puncher, and today we will participate in a competition where a particular fortress will fight the ingenuity of a Russian man!

What we need

We shouldn't ignore these items as some of them depend on your health.

• puncher;
• More corners with a diameter of 8mm;
• Top for slitting;
• Caps PPE;
• Construction glasses (required);
• pencil;
• Brush and water;
• Gypsum plaster, blade and all mortar solutions;
• Copper triple cable;
• coverings;
• Installation of wires;
• Rosetta;
• Screwdriver.

So let's go to work

1. Find a place in your apartment where you can tie your future.

   Perhaps it will be an old socket on the same wall. You don't need this and you don't usually use it. Well, a good excuse to get rid of it, because it's been so tired of you for so long, I thought you decided to take it apart and plug it in with a cable from the new connector that it needs;

2. Take a subrot and connect it to the place in the wall where the next socket is to be installed, circle this space;
3. If you want to drill a hole, you can take the beaver crown here if you don't, then take a punch and start drilling holes for the drill length.

   Now turn another hole in the middle;

4. Align the socket to the point where the connector is inserted and drill holes every 30 cm to secure the embedded wire;
5. Wait for the brewery to cool down and move to the top;
6. Using a pike, start punching concrete from the hole that forms it.

   The procedure is lengthy, so be patient. Also, do not forget that you will need to continue expanding the hole that was created from below while trying to use the brush;

7. Now that the main part of the work is finished, try again in the subroutine - it should be completely inserted into the hole, and the seat in it does not exactly protrude from any of its parts.

   This is important for the correct and smooth installation of the socket;

8. Take a brush, soak it in water, and thoroughly clean the hole and trick under the wire;
9. Attach the wire in the stem to the clamps and make sure it doesn't stand out longer;
10. We are now preparing the solution to keep it clean;





11. Plug the putty knife into the hole and insert the plaster with shields, pull the wire into it, level it and let it harden the plaster;
12. Leave the plaster with the leftover plaster and let it freeze;
13. Once the solution is solid, you can go directly to installing the socket.

    Pull out the socket and connect the red (white) and blue, isolated from insulation, to the phase connections (L) and zero (N). The yellow wire is responsible for grounding, and if it is not in your home, you cannot clean it. Then insert this knot into the podrozetnik so as not to interfere with its dividing lepeski (rest) and the ears of the screws were placed on the screws themselves, which are screwed into the podrozetnik;



14. Tighten the bolts in the cans and make sure the socket is installed on all sides as close to the wall as possible.

    Also, make sure it sits horizontally inside the subcontractor without curvature;

15. The penultimate phase. Remove the plastic case from the slot and insert it into place;

Connecting the jack



Everything is almost ready, and the most important point- socket connection. Now you have to go to the ground and turn off the apartment.

If you do not know where the cars from your home are, check with your neighbors where their cars are located and, as a result, yours if you are acting with an exception. Now turn off the one that is responsible for the supply of electricity on the right side of the dwelling.

Instructions for installing sockets in concrete walls

If you don't know, disable everything.

Well, now you can safely participate in the connection. Pull the wires out of the new plug with the old ones and tighten the PPE caps from the top. That's all, we hope this article helped you!

Concrete Wall Socket Installation Guide

Every builder and owner of a home or housing property throughout his life works with such an important task as replacing electrical wiring.



Replacing electrical installations is a responsible process that requires close attention and attention.

To ensure the quality of the wiring, it is necessary to devote enough time and attention to prevent this issue in the near future.

Types of wiring

The wiring is carried out in two versions: internal wiring and external.

Older homes often have external electrical appliances.

Installation of winders in a concrete wall

This is inadequate and dangerous. To replace an old socket with a new one (or a switch), the old one must be parsed. Before starting the electrical installation, the electrical voltage must be disconnected using the input machines.

Tools

To start the installation, you need to have a set of tools:

• drilling or drilling, bit or drill;
• plastic bag (very popular and easy to install);
• socket set.

First mark the installation location and then rotate the required circle size.

Completing the installation and fastening of the juniper will help building materials: a mixture of gypsum, alabaster or already prepared quick-drying mixtures.

Installation should begin by marking the placement of the projectors in the concrete wall (mark the circle with a pencil or marker).

Then, using a hammer drill or drill bit, turn the circle to the right size... We are trying to include a piece in it. If there are irregularities in the niche, remove them with a chisel, screwdriver and hammer.

On the side that the wires come up to, remove the plug and place it in the hole.

Correct installation sockets in a concrete wall does not work without shtrubleny channels for covering electrical wires... For these works you will need:

• angle grinder (Bulgarian);
• discs for concrete.

Finishing work

The main rotor is mounted in the wall using alabaster or mortar.

Go back to the concrete wall installation screen: it needs to be leveled with a water scale, it shouldn't fall on the wall because it is impossible to mount the socket and they stick to it, it wasn’t necessary because

It's ugly and dangerous.

Block the cabinet in the wall with alabaster, plaster... Before using the fixing mortar, it is necessary to drill drilled hole... A trowel or structural trowel will then have to fill the hollow hole and coat the resulting mixture and self-learning from the outside. Slide in a box of extra mixture for filling blank forms.

Alabaster and cold freeze for 5-10 minutes and then we will continue to work before starting to install the outlet.

Continue straight from the jack installation, loosen the connectors, secure the wires and terminals in them. Fasten the screws at the edges that are used to secure the socket to mounting box... Then attach the plug to the center screw. Installation stopped.

Making holes in a concrete wall is a challenge. The material is solid, needs in a specialized tool.

The task of installing a secret socket, which requires a corresponding deepening, is considered especially difficult.

An additional difficulty lies in the need to make not through hole, but a recess with a certain size.

Solving the problem will require skills, experience, and certain knowledge.

The issue is not very difficult, but it needs detailed consideration.

The better to drill

Drilling a hole in concrete is a challenge for strong-minded people. Builders try to use tools that are appropriate for the material to be processed.

Holes in concrete are often attempted to be drilled with solid carbide drills and the result remains unsatisfactory.

The hardness and abrasive qualities of concrete quickly break down cutting edge drill.

The most successful tool that can handle concrete is the hammer drill, which uses a proprietary technique other than drilling.

Several more difficult to manufacture nests with a grinder. You will need to install a diamond cutting disc, but you will not be able to complete the entire task; you will have to finish the result with a hammer drill or an electric drill.

Works performed with hard concrete types in load-bearing walls panel houses require the use of an appropriate tool. You should not waste time trying to operate with unsuitable devices, you should immediately use specialized devices.

Using a punch

Drilling concrete is useless.

The perforator drill copes with the task quite confidently, since a different principle is used - not cutting, but chipping of small particles of concrete. The process is called percussion-rotary drilling.

Hole making is possible in two ways:

• Sequential contouring of a previously marked circle, with a diameter of 2-3 mm larger than the size of the socket.
• Use of a special drill bit with diamond or victory bit teeth.

The work is simple, but it will require adherence to the sequence of actions:

• The hole for the socket is marked with a necessarily marked center.
• The direction of the groove is outlined - the groove for the cable channel.
• The depth of the socket is measured, marked on the drill with an allowance of about 3-5 mm using a strip of electrical tape.
• The central hole is drilled.
• Holes are drilled sequentially along the contour of the circle.

  The distances between them must be made as small as possible.

• The central part of the nest is knocked out with a chisel and hammer.

The cutting of the groove is done with a perforator with a special nozzle in the form of a spatula, which forms a neat groove.

The process is quite lengthy, noisy, but effective.

Socket crown

The use of a crown makes it possible to form a neat circumference of the socket. Usually a crown with a diameter of 65 mm is used, corresponding typical size socket box.

Using a crown makes it easier to mark - just mark the center of the hole and drill a hole with a diameter of 7-8 mm.

The crown goes deep into the wall for a sufficient distance with a small margin (3-5 mm).

The socket is removed with a chisel. Dense, stubborn concrete is not easy to knock out; a few additional holes in the center will help ease the effort. Sometimes you have to almost completely drill out the center part.

The process is noisy, slow, but quite effective.

Conventional drill

Using a drill will not create the desired effect. A carbide tipped drill is much stronger than a conventional drill, but working with concrete is too difficult for it.

The exception is soft materials used for the manufacture of interior partitions:

• Foam concrete;
• Brickwork;
• Slag or gypsum blocks.

The carbide drill is capable of working with soft species concrete.

Installation of socket boxes: installation rules

Procedure:

• Markup;
• Outlining the nests;
• Knocking out the central parts with a chisel.

Instead of a crown, various attachments with circular saws of suitable diameters can be used.

Making a groove is done by creating multiple runs at a shallow depth (1.5-2 cm), located on the axis of the future wire.

The approaches are interconnected by pulling the rotating drill at an angle along the channel line. It is more convenient to make two narrow strips, traversed at a distance of about 1 cm from each other, with the subsequent removal of the bridge between them.

Inside the groove, a plastic cable channel is installed, or the wire is laid in double insulation.

Both options are equally possible, choose the one that is convenient for you.

Sawing with a grinder

Using an angle grinder, colloquially called a grinder is not the best option, but in the absence of other possibilities it will do.

The technique for making the nest differs significantly from the methods used when working with a hammer drill or electric drill.

The grinder does not allow you to make a neat round hole of the required diameter.

We have to work with more rough, approximate methods. But the manufacture of a groove to the socket is facilitated, since the grinder makes straight furrows perfectly. Procedure:

• Wall markings;
• Driving grooves;
• Outlining a square with a side 2-3 mm larger than the outer diameter of the socket;
• Removing the center of the square, the inner stripe of the groove;
• Installation of a socket and cable duct;
• Filling excess space sand-cement mortar, gypsum, alabaster mixture.

Security

Working with concrete is accompanied by the formation of a large amount of dust, small fragments of stone.

The sharp edges of the particles are hazardous to the eyes and respiratory system, therefore protective goggles and a respirator (gauze mask) must be used. Working with power tools requires specific safety regulations.

It is forbidden to use defective tools that have damaged the power cord.

When operating with a hammer and chisel, it is necessary to monitor the strength of the hammer attachment to the handle.

Hold the chisel perpendicular to the work surface. The riveted ends of the chisel must be removed.

Important points

Dust formation - serious problem arising in the course of work. Using a vacuum cleaner can significantly reduce the amount of dust and small particles.

It is recommended to wet hard, dense concrete grades (on load-bearing walls) with water during operation. The material is less dusty, it becomes more pliable.

Watch a detailed video:

Hole punching should be done with full confidence that there is no danger of damage to the electrical cable.

If there are thick reinforcing bars in the walls, it is recommended to use a diamond core bit. She slowly but reliably overcomes the reinforcement.

We do

During installation modern sockets or switches indoor installation their mechanisms should be placed in a special plastic box - a socket. Today, almost all electrical fittings are made in such a way that it allows you to install several sockets or switches in one row.

Agree that one outlet in the kitchen is no longer enough, and sockets installed at different ends of the wall are not always convenient to use.

Therefore, an electrician is often designed in such a way that several points for connection are located in one place. household appliances... It is very practical and functional.

Some masters, unknowingly, do not assemble under one multi-post frame, but install freestanding sockets next to it. This design does not create the impression of a single whole device, because of this, such an installation does not look very nice.

Professionals always use a decorative frame for two, three or four windows when installing a block of outlets.

But sometimes it happens that at the final stage of installation, the sockets can hardly be installed in the boxes, due to the fact that they overlap.

The decorative frame in this case also does not fall into place.

This is due to the fact that when installing the socket boxes, the distance between their centers was not observed. Ideally, the distance between the centers of the socket boxes should be 71 mm. And when installing a large number boxes, they begin to move relative to each other or deform under the action of the putty mixture.

Good afternoon dear friends!

I am glad to welcome you again to the Electrician in the House website. In this article, we'll talk about one simple and, at the same time, useful thing for installation of socket outlets in brick walls, concrete and gas blocks. Those people who are professionally engaged in electrical installation know how sometimes it is not easy to evenly install a block of five outlets.

With the help of a simple device, which will be discussed in this article, you can install the socket boxes with millimeter precision.

Such things are not produced industrial enterprises, therefore, the masters independently make homemade products suitable for them. This device in electrician slang is called template for installing socket boxes... There are also names such as conductor or breadboard, but they all perform the same function.

Plank for installation of socket outlets

Majority plastic boxes for mounting sockets have dimensions of 68 mm in diameter and a depth of about 45 mm.

Boxes at different manufacturers may differ slightly in size and characteristics, but the functionality is the same for everyone - being assembled in a block, they provide a center-to-center distance of the installed mechanisms of 71 millimeters.

So that during installation the boxes do not dance relative to each other, they must be rigidly fixed to each other.

How are boxes assembled into a block? Consider Schneider Electric socket-outlets for indoor installation. If you look closely at the front, there are special latches for joining several boxes.

Boxes can also be joined using special connectors - plugs.

At first glance, the matter seems simple - after collecting the boxes in a block, the required center-to-center dimensions are automatically obtained.

Why do you need a template for installing socket boxes at all? Everything fits together so well.

However, it should be borne in mind that to fix the socket, fill the entire space between the walls of the hole in the wall and the socket itself with mortar.

Therefore, the filling of the solution into the nest is carried out in excess. And when you start to press the box into place, the solution will begin to come out from all the cracks, filling the voids, as a result of which a very strong fixation of the socket is obtained.

But when the box is pressed in, it is necessary to apply a fair amount of force, under the influence of which the plastic socket can simply burst or change its shape (become oval), and a block of several boxes will necessarily blur in different directions.

At the final stage of installing the mechanisms of sockets and switches, it is impossible to compensate for all these shortcomings with calipers.

Moreover, during installation, the boxes must be clearly level, so that the ends do not protrude and are not recessed, but are flush with the wall. When installing the socket box with bare hands this can be done, but it takes a lot of time and effort.

It was for the solution of such problems that I made myself such a device as a template for installing socket boxes, which saves not only time, but also nerves.

How to make a template for installing socket boxes with your own hands

Let's proceed directly to the manufacture of our device.

For this I took aluminum corner size 40x40 mm. The length of the corner depends on the number of socket-outlets installed in the block, plus the necessary indents from each edge for attaching the corner to the wall (approximately 10-15 cm on each side). I decided to make a layout for five socket outlets, so I took a 60 cm long corner.

By the way, it is not at all necessary to make a template from a corner, and even more so from an aluminum one.

You can take any rigid material of arbitrary shape, who has what, for example, a pipe profile. Convenience of the aluminum template in its lightness. By the way, ideas arose to make a model out of a din-rail, there is no need to drill holes.

Now, in the center of the edge, where the boxes will be attached, you need to mark a line. On both sides of the corner, using a tape measure, find the center and mark a line with a pencil.

Along the outlined line, we will drill holes for attaching the socket boxes using self-tapping screws.

Our template for installing socket boxes almost ready. Let's start drilling holes. To do this, we are helped by a screwdriver and a metal drill with a size of 3 mm.

We retreat from the edge of the corner 12 cm and drill the first hole.

To prevent the drill from sliding off the intended drilling site, I recommend screwing it on.

Then we measure the distance between the centers of the self-tapping screws of the socket box and transfer it to our template. I got 60 mm. This will be the point to drill the second hole. In the same way, we drill holes for all socket outlets in the block.

Trying on a box on a plank

We retreat 5 cm along the edges of the corner and drill two more holes.

How to fix a socket in a concrete wall

During installation, this will help to press the entire structure against the wall.

Now we will fix all the socket boxes on the finished layout, we get an even structure that can be inserted into the wall without distortions and bends.

Let's see what distance we got between the centers of the boxes relative to the drilled holes:

To install a block of socket boxes using a template, put a little mortar into the hole in the wall, push the wires into the socket boxes and attach the template to the wall.

First you need to drill holes in the wall. We fix the corner to the wall with dowels.

The convenience of this design is that all boxes are installed with an exact distance relative to each other, and there is no need to constantly check and correct each box until the solution is completely dry. The deformation of the boxes is also excluded, and they are all exposed flush with the wall.

You can sharpen the edges to make it convenient expose the template horizontally.

I hope, dear friends, the article was interesting for you, and this device will help you to facilitate and speed up the installation.

Who has what opinions? Maybe someone is already using this design or there are opinions on how to improve it. Let's share our experience.

They were installed in the wall without the possibility of replacement, that is, simply put, they were walled in. In the event of a malfunction, it was impossible to replace such an outlet - it was necessary to open the wall and get the old product. Now, almost every owner knows what the installation of socket boxes is - after all, it is thanks to them that the replacement of failed switches, sockets and devices has become much easier and easier. However, not everyone knows how to install the socket box correctly and smoothly, so we will analyze this issue in more detail.

How to choose a socket

Some useful tips will help to install the socket boxes exactly as needed:

1. When buying a socket, immediately purchase sockets and switches with it. Immediately in the store, make sure that the outlet fits freely into the socket, it will be possible to fix it with screws and put a supply of wires inside the socket. There is no need to hesitate to ask the seller for another socket - without doing this, then you may have to go and buy new ones.
2. By applying these tips, you can install a wall box into almost any wall, even without much experience. The main thing is to follow all the recommendations given in this article.

Video

This video describes in detail the installation of socket boxes:

This information can be useful to everyone who has ever come across or is faced with the installation of socket outlets. We will describe as briefly and concisely as possible, what is a socket how to install it correctly and how much it might cost to install it. You will also learn how to put back a dropped socket and what can be used instead.

Remember the three basic rules for a good installation:

You can also add a few nuances that will help you understand what kind of socket boxes you need; how to prepare holes (nests) for them; how to put the cable into the socket correctly; and how to install it correctly.

Sizes of socket boxes

Everything regarding the size of the socket boxes, everything is simple here, the most common size of the socket box is 70mm in diameter. In the vast majority of cases, they all have the same size. And most modern outlets and switches are designed for these sizes.

Types of socket boxes

It is important not to forget about such a parameter as socket depth... But in this case, everything is simple, if you plan to switch several wires in a socket box, in addition to the socket or switch itself (for example, use a socket instead of a wiring box), then you will need a socket deeper. If possible, use deep socket outlets, then it is easier to work with them and install sockets in them.

Switching wires in a socket instead of a junction box

Remember! - Once, a properly installed socket box, it never reminds of itself again.

Installation of a socket in concrete

What needs to be done to install the socket in concrete? Right! - Hollow out a hole under the socket! The best way to do this is to use a drill with diamond core bit, but this is not the best option in terms of cheapness. More convenient and practical option, - this is a perforator with a percussion crown on concrete, or just cut out concrete with a grinder with a disc over a stone (but this is a very dirty way, and the dust will be absolutely everywhere: in the ears, eyes and at the entrance).

It should be borne in mind that when chiseling, a lot is formed in the room fine dust, and first of all, installers should take care of their health, purchase standard protective equipment: masks, respirators, headphones and a construction vacuum cleaner.

Future holes must first be marked. We draw a line along the level, and place marks on the wall. If you have 2 or more socket boxes, then the distance between the centers of the circles 71 mm... This is a distance calculated empirically by professional electricians, checked by sweat and blood! Remember 71mm!

The easiest way to make labels is to attach a group of wall boxes to the wall.

Stroblenie e holes

After marking, in the marked out centers of the circle, it is necessary to make a hole, with a drill slightly larger than the drill of the crown (for example, with an 8-10mm drill). We drill a hole with a margin, taking into account the length of the drill of the crown itself (but do not forget about the neighbors and thin walls). This method is also suitable when working with a diamond core bit in the drilling mode.

Slitting process. After drilling the holes in the center of the future circle, it is necessary to go a few millimeters into the wall with the help of a crown (this only applies to the method of working with a hammer drill!). Along the outlined circle, you need to drill as many holes as possible, so that it is easier for the crown to "gnaw" the concrete.

With a diamond bit, you just need to drill - without chiselling, periodically letting the bit cool down. It is worth noting that when a diamond bit hits the reinforcement, its resource is significantly reduced.

When working with a grinder, the whole task comes down to making cuts in the wall to the desired depth, and hollowing out the area where the socket boxes will be located.

What to do if the drill or bit gets into the reinforcement during drilling?

There are several ways to remove reinforcement. One of the fastest and most painless is knocking out the reinforcement with a chisel - a perforator attachment. If the crown hits the reinforcement (an indirect sign of getting into the reinforcement is sparks or a clear slowdown in the drilling process), it is better to remove this reinforcement, otherwise damage the crown.

Second less convenient way, use an old crown. It doesn't matter which way you do it, with a diamond or drill bit, in both cases we simply drill out the reinforcement. The metal of the reinforcement is very soft and can be easily broken through with a hammer drill. And the third, dirty way, is simply to drill out the reinforcement with a grinder with a diamond disc on the stone.

Embedding a socket in concrete

The best way to secure the socket outlets is to embed them in the hole, using alebsatr or rotband. A small life hack - so that the solution does not freeze too quickly and you do not have to wait a day - you need to mix alabaster with rotband.

At the beginning, using a vacuum cleaner, remove all the dust from the hole, moisten (prime) the hole with water. And only after that, apply the solution with a small spatula, spreading it along the inner walls of the hole. The solution must be thick enough not to leak out of the wells. It is important to understand that the contact area of ​​the solution with the socket should be maximized! Plus, coat the sockets themselves with the mixture. The solution will envelop the wall box from all sides, and adhere well to the base of the wall, only then we can say that the box is installed efficiently!

With a large spatula, remove excess mortar while leveling the wall surface. Before this procedure, it is necessary to pull out or screw in all the self-tapping screws of the socket box.

Laying the cable into the socket. It is best to lay the cable already in the installed socket, the windows for the cable are easily knocked out with a screwdriver, and the channels for pulling the cable between the socket are better done in advance. When the solution has cooled down, you can safely insert the cable into the pre-drilled holes or grooves.

If you do not have that much time and the cable needs to be embedded together with the socket, try to align the socket as accurately as possible. You can wind the cable into any hole, but it is better not to use the side windows for this, so that there are no difficulties with the subsequent installation of the sockets.

Important! The entry of the cable into the socket should not interfere with the future outlet in any way, especially from the side of the spacers. A very common mistake when installing socket outlets is by interrupting the wires with a spacer from the outlet - in this case, a dangerous potential may appear on the socket housing, or it may occur short circuit when the electricity is turned on.

At what stage of repair (finishing) is it better to lay the socket box?

This is one of the most pressing questions that not everyone will think about at the beginning, but understand how important it is at the end. Ideally, you need to observe RULE # 1, but this is not always the case.

Therefore, you need to know in advance how much the layer of plaster or other layer (drywall, tile, etc.) will protrude before you mount the socket. As a last resort, you can break this rule and install the socket flush with the bare concrete wall. But in this case, when sanding the walls, the socket boxes will be recessed into the wall, to the depth of the plaster layer. It will not be easy to install high-quality sockets in such a socket, but our electricians know how to do it correctly.

Installation of socket outlets in plasterboard

When working with plasterboard, the cable is laid in advance, or pulled out using technical holes and broaches. In places of future cable commutation (connections), or in those places where a socket should be, leave a supply of cable, and mark outside where this cable is located. Mark the place of the future hole for the socket in any way convenient for you, for example, screw a self-tapping screw in this place.

The markings for socket boxes are made in the same way as on concrete. The distance between the centers of the circle is the same 71mm... It is important to consider that the drilled hole is no longer possible to fix (or rather, nothing is impossible for a good electrician), but before calling an electrician, you need to try to do it yourself.

Holes in drywall can be made with a conventional wood crown, diameter 68mm, using a screwdriver or drill.

After drilling the hole, you need to find the right wires, which should be right behind the wall. It happens that they are hidden in a junction box, or hang on a cable, with which the wires can be pulled to the hole. Each craftsman has his own way of pulling wires in hidden cavities, but that's another story.

It is necessary to insert the wires into the socket box BEFORE installing the socket box itself, otherwise it is simply impossible to do it.

Now comes the fun part. The most painful procedure is the correct installation of the socket into the drywall. This is due to the fact that different manufacturers of the socket for drywall (or wood) have ears for securely fixing the socket for the ceiling wall (drywall, plywood or whatever you have). In some cases, because of these lugs, the roselet does not fit into the prepared hole, but this problem does not occur on all the receptacles!

It is best to take care of this in advance when buying a socket outlet. Make sure that the ears open, do not go beyond the circumference of the socket itself, for example, as here

If, nevertheless, you managed to buy the "wrong" socket, then you can use one little trick: lugs are made in plywood or drywall at a slight angle (it is enough to make them on one side only), after that the socket can be installed normally. The socket should normally fit into the hole at an angle. The main thing is not to overdo it and not to make the hole of a larger diameter than the outer edges of the socket

After all the procedures, we fix the socket by tightening the screws

What to do if the wall box pops out of the wall

In cases where you are faced with a dropped or poorly fixed socket, there are several ways that you can correct the situation. The simplest and most reliable - screw the self-cutter into the base the socket (if it is concrete, a self-tapping screw with a dowel). The second method is glue gun. Before gluing, it is necessary to remove all dust from the hole. More difficult situations, when, for example, the base is plaster and it crumbled. Help here plaster solution, the base must first be primed, for example, with PVA glue.

The mortar method can also work for plasterboard structures. In general, the solution is, in principle, a panacea for fallen out socket outlets. In some severe cases you can screw the socket itself or the switch to the base of the wall.

Installation of socket outlets in tiles or false wall panels

It is better to lay the cable and install the socket outlets in advance, before laying the tiles. But if the tile is already lying, and you need to make an outlet or a switch, then crowns will help here for ceramic tiles... The crowns will help you to accurately drill holes in the tiles.

The hardest thing is if there is concrete under the tiles that needs to be channeled. In this case, it is best to use a diamond bit, otherwise there is a possibility of damage to the tile (when chiselling with a conventional bit).

There is a cheaper and dirtier way, this is drilling a hole with a grinder, the main thing is to drill everything as carefully as possible so that the hole is covered with a frame from the outlet.

Conclusion

That's all, I hope this article will help you in our difficult electrical business. Like and follow us on social networks. And if something does not work out, you can always get highly qualified assistance from professional electricians.

And the most important! When carrying out any work with work wires, do not forget to turn off the electricity!