Ventilation system in a 2-storey building. Proper ventilation in a private house with your own hands: system, types, device and calculation

02.02.2012, 08:32

There are plenty of ways to heat the second floor with a stove. But I want to discuss one more.
The Internet is full of reviews where they say that they do not make any additional devices for heating the second floor at all. Warm air itself comes up through the stairwell. There are even reports that the heat on the second floor is leaving too actively, which leads to uneven heating: it is too hot upstairs and too cold downstairs.

The idea is that, without making any special devices for heating the second floor, to achieve optimal temperatures there simply by setting the ventilation.

So far the design looks like this. A pair of air ducts should go to each room above: one from the ceiling of the first floor to the ceiling of the second, and the second from the floor of the second floor to the floor of the first, closer to the furnace firebox. The flow regulating grid can be placed on any of the pipes - the effect should be the same.

The mechanism is the following. Fresh dry outdoor air is sucked in through the underground and the gaps between the stove and the floor, the wall surface heats this dry air, it rises to the ceiling of the first floor and from there it partially enters the ceiling of the second floor. There, he pushes the moist, polluted, cooled air down and directs it through the second air duct to the furnace furnace, from where it is discharged into the street.

For me, the question of the necessary and sufficient dimensions of the air ducts is still unclear.

02.02.2012, 08:54

By the way, electronics enthusiasts can put automation on the control grills, which will monitor the temperature equalization on the ground floor and in different rooms second. And in case of non-use of the second floor, simply block it, or work in the defrosting mode.

Grandfather Jedi

02.02.2012, 14:46

zttt, let's draw?

02.02.2012, 15:06

02.02.2012, 15:25

won't it be hot?
2nd floor is hot 1st floor is cold

02.02.2012, 17:19

I don’t understand how air from the floor of the 2nd floor will enter the stove’s blower so that the air of the first floor does not interfere with it.

Andrey Dachnik

02.02.2012, 17:59

Cold air is heavier and will sink, displacing warm air.

02.02.2012, 18:16

Good question. I even began to imagine the whole process somewhat better while I thought about the answer to it.
The pressure in each of the pipes is proportional to the density difference. Density difference is a function of temperature and humidity. Neglecting humidity, pipes start working when there is a temperature difference between the ceilings and / or floors. Those. such a system should equalize the temperatures in both rooms. If the stove is working and accumulates under the ceiling hot air, then it begins to rise up, and the air from the floor begins to be pushed down. If the furnace does not work, but the air near the floor of the second floor has cooled more than near the floor of the first floor, then the exchange begins again and the temperature equalizes.
If we take into account the humidity, the picture will be somewhat more complicated. Definitely the second floor will be somewhat more high humidity. Perhaps this can be overcome by adjusting the height of the pipes, but this needs to be thought about.

02.02.2012, 18:32

But this is still purely theoretical reasoning.

02.02.2012, 18:48

By the way, even dampers can be omitted in such a scheme: the temperature itself should equalize. Only it will be necessary to ensure the tightness of the rooms of the upper floor. Otherwise, all the warm air will go there, and it will be cold below.
exactly!
TIGHTNESS!
without this, it’s complicated ... by the way, there is still an ambush - warm air under the ceiling on the first floor heats the floor of the second floor ... or is it to be insulated here?
although if you put fans in the air ducts, all problems are solved. but as I understand it, there is an electronically independent concept.

02.02.2012, 20:17

Let the heat come through the floor. Everything will be settled. I would like to avoid electricity.

03.02.2012, 11:59

I also thought about it, digitally fornicated, that's what happens.
Fluxes depend very little on humidity. Within a couple of degrees with a difference in humidity from 0 to 100%.
The air speed in the pipes is quite stable and in most cases is in the range of 1 to 3 meters per second. According to snips no more than 5 m/s. Too thick pipes do not need to be installed. I have a bedroom of 25 cubes approximately. With a pipe of 150, the air should be completely exchanged in about half an hour.
Both pipes work together only when fully indoors. In this case, there will be a flow if for at least one pipe the temperature at the bottom is higher than the temperature at the top.
If the door is opened, then the planned process is interrupted and the heat simply starts to go up. If the top is warmer than the bottom, then the ventilation stops. That is why you should not make very thick air ducts. So that when open door the air went up more slowly.

In practice, the problem of moving heat upwards exists with absolutely any type of heating. The good thing about this system is that the heat exchange stops after the door is closed. After that, the stove, which is very powerful and heat-intensive once it has to heat two floors, begins to heat only the lower floor. The upper floor gradually cools itself, because there are no heat sources. Thus, gradually everything returns to normal by itself and the temperatures level out.

In general, I really liked the system. If no one finds obvious mistakes before the summer, then I will do just that for myself. Now we just need to figure out how to isolate the two floors. There was no door on the stairs.

Finally, a picture of the calculated air velocities in vertical pipe at different temperatures above and below. It does not depend much on the diameter, in this case it is 150 mm.
401

03.02.2012, 12:09

Well, the problem will not be solved in this way. In fact, through an inconvenient place, the solution to the problem of air recovery.
Put the fan in one pipe, the second is not needed at all, the air will rise to the second floor anyway. Exit pipe to the furnace and forward. Turn on simultaneously with the ignition of the furnace. Electricity consumption is minimal, probably ten years of work will exceed the cost of laying a second pipe.

03.02.2012, 12:39

1. If the doors and windows are closed, then air will not flow through one pipe, even with a fan, even without a fan. Don't believe? Try to force air into the bottle. You can blow as much as you like, but rather burst yourself than inflate the stuff with warmth.

2. What are you going to do when the power goes out? Or are you going to fence the uninterruptible power supply system? Well, you see what unexpected expenses have arisen.

3. The heat goes up without any fans. I tell you: without fans, the flow rate is 1-3 meters per second. It's simply not possible anymore. And in general, people over there complain that without any batteries and fans it’s hot upstairs, and it’s dog-cold downstairs. The task is not just to heat the second floor, but also to heat it in such a way that it is comfortable, i.e. the temperature below and above was not much different.

4. In addition to heating, there is a ventilation problem. I don’t understand how you will solve it with fans. It's just that fans mix good and bad air stupidly and it will be thrown into the pipe indiscriminately. In total, it turns out that you will have a disgusting indoor climate with a fan, and the cost of ventilation (heating the exhaust air) will be quite considerable.

Grandfather Jedi

03.02.2012, 12:46

Electricity consumption is minimal, probably ten years of work will exceed the cost of laying a second pipe.
TB 10 (80 m3/h) - 20 W. Here also consider.
True, he has no pressure in the air duct ...
402

03.02.2012, 16:52

once again - with gremetic rooms (or the entire 2nd floor), the system will work. in case of leaking - it is hot on the second floor, cold on the first.
the cold on the first floor can be overcome by "radiant heating" from the stove. but the heat on the second - no way.

Grandfather Jedi

03.02.2012, 17:00

I am glad that we got to this point before anyone invested their soul and money.

03.02.2012, 18:51

As I understand it, it is necessary to supply air to the stove, which is already snuffed out, spoiled, and fresh where it comes from, was not discussed at all. After all, the furnace de facto burns even without pumping air.
The option of spontaneous mutual substitution of air between floors seems unrealistic, because there is always a way for warm air bypassing the pipe. Sealing floors from the category of fiction and delirium. It’s also forbidden for children to run from floor to floor, because it’s not good ...
Let's say a pump, of course, it will not be able to pump 80 cubic meters per hour through a pipe, but the stove does not need so much, because it is not turbocharged, but ordinary.

The option of turning off electricity during the heating of the furnace is not critical, it will be heated anyway :). Most likely not a power outage, but a lack of firewood, it seems.

03.02.2012, 19:03

the cold on the first floor can be overcome by "radiant heating" from the stove. but the heat on the second - no way.
I just talked about this in my answer above. Re-read it again carefully.
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I'll just add...
1. Tightness is a relative concept. Enough to keep the doors closed.
2. The system itself comes into balance after closing the doors, even if it became hot upstairs due to the forgetfulness of the household.
3. In radiator heating, the problem of a hot second floor will not go away. It is the nature of warm air to rise. So it is still necessary to isolate the second floor from the first with any heating system.

I actually found a catch, but it does not apply to this system. I just counted the heat loss again and it turns out that at -15 (the most common temperature) I will have somewhere around 4.5 kW, and at -35 (sometimes it happens) already somewhere around 7.5-8 kW. In the provided place (1.5x1.5m), a stove with such parameters will not fit.
I'm looking in the direction of KIKsP 16kW for now. But I don’t like it because its heat storage properties will be somewhat worse due to the lower temperature in the register area.

03.02.2012, 19:09

In general, some kind of salad, well, at least read what the topic is about.
This applies to you first and foremost. Namely:

And where does fresh come from, it was not discussed at all
First post in the thread:

The mechanism is the following. Fresh dry outdoor air is sucked in through the underground and the gaps between the stove and the floor, the wall surface heats this dry air...

The pump is needed only when the stove is heating, the rest of the time it will not really give anything, except for air mixing.
The option of turning off electricity during the heating of the furnace is not critical, it will be heated anyway

03.02.2012, 23:33

This applies to you first and foremost. Namely:

First post in the thread:

In general, you have learned to criticize, now it's time to learn to understand what you criticize.

It will be heated. Only without electricity, on your first floor, the temperature will rise to 60 degrees and all residents will get heatstroke if they do not retreat in time.
Well, I missed the air from the fields, although this option in itself looks gloomy.
But about 60 degrees, rare nonsense. Well, there is no electricity, open the doors (or are they electric?) and the heat will go upstairs.
In general, okay, the topic is far-fetched, not interesting.

Grandfather Jedi

04.02.2012, 03:51

Air from the underground to the furnace is a good and very common option. You only need a shaver

04.02.2012, 14:24

Good day everyone!
I’ll make a reservation right away that I’m not particularly strong in any formulas (the heat of the sema, the heat of conduction, etc.). That's what I ALL!!! Interested! When burning (burning), (oxygen) air is needed, which is taken from the room in which the stove (boiler) is located, and it enters this room (by suction) from the street! That is, passing through all non-densities (doors, windows) is heated room air(thereby cooling it!!!). The furnace intake is sucked into the air and flies out into the chimney !!!
The question is: Should we make a two-flow air supply system for the boiler??? Thus, we will achieve a closed air supply system (street - boiler - streets) and not (street - apartment - boiler - street) !!! We will get that the apartment will become like a thermos to keep warm air in itself and not filter it through itself!
Is such a system feasible? Its pros and cons???
For greater clarity, I drew a small layout of the principle of the system.
Please write what you think about it! Thanks in advance!!!416

04.02.2012, 20:11

This is a perpetual motion machine. In terms of energy, you will not save on this.
The temperature of the outgoing gases should be about 120 degrees, otherwise condensate will form in the pipes. Everything modern stoves and boilers are quite capable of providing just such a temperature without any perversions with countercurrents.

Now about duality. In any case, air is required for the operation of the furnace. In the furnace, it is heated, and energy is spent on this, burned and thrown out into the street.
Now you will isolate the flows to the stove and inside the house. Inside the house, you need to change the air in the same way, as the tenants saturate it carbon dioxide and water vapor. Those. you again need to suck in the air from the street, heat it up again and throw it out into the street again. As you can see, in such a scheme, the air is heated twice, while in the case of a furnace only once.
In fact, by-pass (without countercurrent) is used almost always when the boiler is outside the heated room. After all, fuel and air are also burned at heating plants, for the heating of which energy is spent. And in any room that is heated by a heating plant, there is ventilation, which again heats the air and again throws it out into the street.

Do the ventilation system in exactly the same way! In two streams! So as far as I know they do in new energy-saving houses
This is called recovery. V furnace heating there is no point in it, because the air is not thrown out into the street, but only smoke is thrown out.

Today there are a lot of people against the air from underground - like radon there to a fig, and therefore it is better to isolate the house from the underground if possible.
In fact, it is customary to ventilate the underground. And if you are afraid of radon, then the underground should not be made of earth, but at least the floor should be concreted. In any case, radon is a much lesser evil than a fan buzzing around the clock in the room :)

From the author: hello dear friends! It has long been known that a properly equipped ventilation system is the key to a comfortable and healthy life. After all, the microclimate great value. That is why today we will talk about how ventilation is arranged in a two-story private house.

Strictly speaking, the layout of the system does not change much depending on the number of floors. The only difference is that when using forced ventilation, it is necessary to use more powerful equipment for a two-story cottage than for a one-story one. This is due, first of all, to the volume of air available in the house.

In general, the methods are not too different. And certainly for a house of any number of storeys, it is necessary to approach the issue equally competently. Oddly enough, among some owners of suburban dwellings there is an opinion that private buildings do not at all need special organized system air exchange. Especially often such doubts arise if the house is built from "breathing" materials - for example, from wood.

But let's look at the big picture objectively. Think about it, because you are unlikely to leave the erected walls bare. They will probably have an insulating layer placed on them, and then a finish, giving the building a beautiful and aesthetic appearance. All of these additions will definitely cut off access to fresh air, which otherwise could pass through the walls.

Even if you are going to build a house from a tree that does not require finishing, note that modern timber has completely different qualities than the wood that was used in the old good times. Now the material is impregnated with various compounds designed to protect it from harmful effects external environment. In addition, timber is often glued. All these substances tightly clog the pores, so there is simply no possibility for air exchange.

Also, do not forget about double-glazed windows, which are everywhere installed on windows. Previously, ordinary wooden frames with glasses. They had wonderful gaps in their design, through which fresh air successfully circulated in the direction of the house and back.

In general, there are a lot of arguments in favor of arranging a ventilation system. Let's finally start looking at how this can be organized.

Type of ventilation

First of all, it is worth understanding two types of air exchange. It can be natural or forced. Each option has certain advantages and disadvantages, so let's look at them in more detail.

Natural air exchange

Natural ventilation is called ventilation, which does not require the installation of any equipment designed to stimulate the movement of air. Simply put, air masses lead quite independent life. To remove the exhaust air, ventilation shafts are provided - in other words, channels cut into the ceiling and wall that go to the roof.

The air that has been in the house becomes warm. As everyone knows from school physics lessons, in this case it starts to rise up. This is what they are designed for, the entrance to which is located in the upper part of the room. Air masses reach them naturally, and then follow the shaft up, leaving the pipe to the street.

With this, everything is clear. But as you know, the amount of air that has left the house must somehow be replenished. And here lies the problem. It has already been discussed in detail above that modern walls and double-glazed windows make the dwelling a real fortress, into which the enemy, perhaps, will penetrate, but fresh air will definitely not.

The problem can be solved in two ways:

• ventilation. Everyone seems to know how this is done - if it becomes stuffy in the house, you need to open the window. In fact, when stuffiness sets in, your brain has already begun to get tired and experience oxygen starvation. This should not be allowed, since such situations often repeated can seriously harm health. For example, it is fraught with migraines - rather unpleasant conditions that are difficult to get rid of. So, in order not to bring yourself to oxygen starvation, you need to do airing not on the fact of the onset of stuffiness, but at a certain frequency - every three hours. The duration of the procedure is 15 minutes. The problem is that not every family has a person who will agree to stay at home all day long to periodically open the window. As a rule, most people work, so in the evenings they have to return to their dwelling with stale air;
• use of an inlet valve. This simple equipment is an excellent alternative to ventilation. The supply valve is installed either in the window or in the wall. It consists, in fact, of an air duct, through which air masses circulate. The equipment is designed in such a way that its installation does not affect the occurrence of drafts or temperature changes in the home. Thus, there is no need to constantly open the window - through supply valve freshness and oxygen flow continuously.

But even the use of a supply valve is not able to solve main problem natural ventilation. This is a low air exchange rate. The fact is that, regardless of the method of receipt fresh air, depends on some external factors. First of all, on the air temperature outside and inside the room.

To ensure at least relatively normal speed air exchange is necessary so that it is cold outside and hot in the house. The smaller the temperature difference, the slower the air exchange. But what then happens in the summer, when it is equally hot outside and indoors? Never mind. There is simply no air exchange, or it is, but at such a level that there is no sense.

In principle, natural ventilation can be more or less suitable for small houses - there is a small amount of air, the change of which does not take so much time. But since today we are talking about two-story buildings, we immediately dismiss this option for the reasons described above.

Forced air exchange

But this method is the one that is suitable for consideration as an application in a private house of any number of storeys. In this case, the air circulation is affected by the use of special equipment, which is installed either in the shaft, or on the roof, or in one of the non-residential premises - for example, on the attic floor. There are also stand-alone devices, which will be discussed below.

Forced ventilation options

Arrangement compulsory system air exchange is a fairly broad topic, so it is necessary to consider it in as much detail as possible. You should start with the fact that this method is divided into three varieties: supply, exhaust and supply and exhaust ventilation.

Supply equipment

Supply ventilation equipment is responsible for forcing fresh air into the house. At the same time, the spent waste comes out naturally through all the same exhaust shafts. This principle is based on the difference in density between cold and warm air.

The first, getting into the room, has a denser structure due to its temperature, it is heavier and is located first in the floor area. Due to these properties, it pushes out the already heated exhaust air masses. Those rise up and go out through the ventilation ducts.

Then the process is repeated. Cold air comes in, old air comes out. In general, natural ventilation works on the same principle. But forced is characterized by a high injection rate, due to which the intensity of air exchange increases dramatically.

For the equipment of such a system, there are two most popular types of devices:

• supply valves. Yes, they have already been mentioned in a conversation about natural air exchange. But in this case, these devices also have a fan in their design, which is responsible for forcing air into the room. Despite this, the device is still quite simple. An air duct is laid inside the wall, into which the fan is installed. From the side of the room, the structure is closed with a lid, and outside the building - with a protective grill, the purpose of which is to create a barrier in the way of precipitation, debris, small rodents and various living creatures, which have absolutely nothing to do in a decent house. Installation of the supply valve is very simple: just drill the wall with a puncher, then clean the hole, place the air duct in it and assemble the entire structure;
• breather. In fact, this is the same supply valve, but with extended functionality. There is also an air duct, a fan and protective grilles. But in the kit they also come with some "chips" that are responsible for the comfort of people living in the house. For example, these include temperature and humidity sensors, with which the equipment can automatically start when necessary. In addition, a small convector is built into many breathers, which heats the air entering the house in the current mode. Thus, the temperature level in the room does not change in any way - this is both comfortable and saves on heating resources.

Extraction equipment

Another option for arranging a forced ventilation system is to use exhaust equipment. It is installed, as a rule, in places with an increased need for air removal. This, of course, is a sanitary unit and a kitchen room.

In the first case, the need is mainly due to high level humidity. If you do not fight it in any way, then over time it will lead to damage to the finishing materials, as well as to the formation of mold, which is directly harmful to health.

The kitchen also needs air removal for obvious reasons: this is grease, and high humidity, and not always pleasant smells. And sometimes it happens that the food is burnt, and you need to get rid of these flavors as quickly as possible.

For such cases, a kitchen hood is installed - equipment that is located above the stove and is connected to ventilation shaft. A fan is located inside the device, which is responsible for the retraction and further removal of air masses along with odors and humidity.

In the bathroom and toilet, the role of exhaust equipment is also performed by a fan, which is installed at the entrance to ventilation duct and closed with a protective grille. It helps to quickly normalize the level of humidity in the room.

The disadvantage of the exhaust forced ventilation system is the same modest amount of incoming fresh air. This has already been discussed many times today, so we will not repeat ourselves. But the problem isn't going anywhere. Especially it concerns two-storey houses where the volume of air is quite large. He just won't be able to fill up. Therefore, for this case, it is worth considering the third method of arranging the ventilation system.

Supply and exhaust equipment

From the name it is clear that the devices installed within the framework of such a system are responsible for both the supply and exhaust of air. Most often this is achieved by combining different devices. For example, breathers can be installed as a quality, and exhaust devices can be placed in the kitchen and bathroom.

This approach solves two problems at once. Firstly, the required intensity of air exchange is achieved. Secondly, you can fully control the volume of both incoming and outgoing air masses.

In addition, there are special double-acting devices - supply and exhaust. As a rule, they are equipped with recuperators. This item is designed to hold thermal energy from recycled air and give it to fresh air when the latter arrives.

Agree that such savings on heating in big house very handy. You will kill two birds with one stone: you will find a healthy microclimate, and temperature regime do not disturb in the room.

Of course, supply and exhaust ventilation is much more expensive than other systems. First, the equipment itself costs a lot. Secondly, all devices are connected to the mains and consume a certain amount of electricity during operation.

The latter factor, by the way, is the main disadvantage of forced ventilation, regardless of what type of ventilation is used. Dependence on electricity leads to the fact that in the event of a power outage, all equipment will simply stand up.

So it is recommended to be puzzled in advance by purchasing and installing a backup generator. It will be useful to you to maintain the performance of not only ventilation, but also heating system in case of force majeure.

As for the installation of equipment for forced ventilation, it is not so complicated. You can read about how to do the installation with your own hands in the articles on our website dedicated to this topic. Once you have the information you need, you'll be fine. Good luck!

The equipped attic space - the attic has gained its distribution relatively recently. A few decades ago, the owners of private houses did not think about the functionality of this special place. Now everything is different - a useful habitable area will not hurt anyone. The main thing is to create the right air exchange on it. Attic ventilation allows not only to reduce energy losses, but also to extend the life of the roof.

Attic ventilation functions

The ventilation system in a particularly hot period, it allows you to eliminate stuffiness, but in winter it effectively counteracts the ingress of cold and moisture into the room. That is why it is important correct installation do-it-yourself ventilation system, because:

• the system eliminates moisture and prevents the formation of dampness in the insulation material - it is thanks to ventilation that the heat insulator retains its functionality for many years, preventing the penetration of heat and cold;
• with properly created ventilation, the formation of fungus and mold is minimized, thereby eliminating the possibility of premature destruction of the wooden elements of the roof;
• in extreme heat, it prevents the penetration of hot air into the house;
• prevents the accumulation of moisture, thereby preventing corrosion manifestations that adversely affect the metal tile;
• eliminates the formation of icicles under the eaves in severe frosts;
• saves energy resources, thereby reducing the costs required for heating a residential attic in winter period.

Natural ventilation in the attic

The natural ventilation system directly depends on the correct laying of insulating materials. Mandatory conditions for laying insulation is the presence of ventilation spaces between the layers of the material used and under the roof surface. natural ventilation It is based on the creation of natural draft, due to which there is a constant flow of air masses. The total area of ​​the ventilation ducts should be 0.2% of the total area of ​​the attic. by the most simple option mounting is the output channels through the gables. This technology can be applied to a non-stone roof element.

The size of the gap for free air exchange depends on the roofing material that is used for the roof:

• when using metal tiles, tiles, metal profiles, the gap must be more than 25 mm;
• when applying soft materials and flat products, the space for air flow should be more than 50mm;
• when installing waterproofing and insulation, the space between them should be from 20 to 30 mm.

Important! To create high quality natural ventilation over attic room it is required to create a hermetic separation of the ventilation cavities, due to which natural ventilation attic floor will be carried out evenly, without the formation of "dead" zones.

Installation of natural ventilation

A natural ventilation system is created during the installation of the roof. To implement air exchange, it will be necessary to install special elements responsible for air exchange under the roof. For air flow, soffits are used, which are installed around the perimeter of the building. Thanks to the perforated surface, air enters the attic. To remove the exhaust air, point or continuous aerators are used, which are installed on the roof slope.

Special aerators are mounted on the ridge. It is thanks to ridge aerators that the efficiency of all natural ventilation increases, because the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe outlet surfaces of the elements is much larger than that of ordinary ones. The number of aerators is calculated in individually and depends on the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof. 2 aerators are installed per 100 m2 of area to be ventilated.

Important! Natural ventilation functions flawlessly only in the cold season, since air exchange requires a difference in temperature between the street and indoors. That is why ventilation mansard roof requires the installation of a forced air exchange system.

Residential attic ventilation with dormer windows

The dormer window is installed in accordance with SNiP II-26, SNiP 21-01:

• installation dormer windows possible with a roof slope of more than 35 degrees;
• the minimum leaf size is 0.6x0.8 m;
• the allowable size of dormer windows is 1.2x0.8 m.

The shapes of dormer windows in a private house can be different and depend on the style of the building. Dormer windows are mounted using frames during the construction of the roof, making up a complete structure. Ventilation with dormer windows improves the aesthetics of the roof, its functionality.

For pitched roof windows with one inclined plane are ideal. Mounting scheme: 2 beams are located at the distance required by SNiP and are fixed with uprights connected at the top with a jumper. The outer sides are sheathed with facing material, a decorative grille is installed on the side of the facade.

System with one ventilated gap

When arranging the ventilation system of a shed roof, it is worth considering that the size of the ventilation duct directly depends on the length of the slopes and the angle of the roof.

According to SNiP II-26-76:

• the height of the gap is no more than 5 cm, an increase in the indicators of which can lead to the formation of turbulence, which will significantly reduce air exchange;
• with a coating length of more than 10 m, forced ventilation is required;
• ventilation system openings must be reliably protected from debris.

Forced attic ventilation

When installing forced air exchange, a fan is installed in the ventilation duct. It is especially necessary to install the device in the presence of short ventilation ducts that are not able to provide high-quality traction. When installing a fan in a country house, the air supply is mounted in the same way as with a natural system. Roof fan installed outer side at a distance of more than 8 m from the supply openings. It is also very important that the installation of the fan is not carried out close to the windows, as exhaust air can be sucked into them.

The performance of a fan installed on the roof depends on:

• impeller dimensions: larger diameter - higher performance;
• the angle of the blades: the larger it is, the large quantity air will be recycled;
• electric motor power.

The best way to improve performance is to install multiple fans. Using a powerful cooler is impractical.

Important! To prevent the formation of condensate, the fan must be insulated with special materials, for example, using mineral wool.

The attic ventilation system is very important element creating comfortable conditions in the house. It must be installed in accordance with the regulatory requirements of the construction industry. As a rule, the ventilation system is developed at the design stage of the building itself and is installed at the time of the construction of the roof.

Full use of the attic is impossible without proper and effective ventilation of this space.

An attic is a residential attic that needs air circulation, like any living space in a house, but to create ventilation for a house with an attic, you should know some of the nuances.

This room is located above the main living rooms of the house: bedroom, living room, kitchen, shower room. In the process of human life, heat and moisture are released into the surrounding air, which, according to the laws of convection, rises up to the ceiling. The main amount of moist air masses, the ventilation system of the house removes to the atmosphere, but some of it penetrates through the micro-slots in the ceiling and enters the residential attic.

In an attic that is not equipped with ventilation, moist air masses rise to the ceiling, penetrate through Decoration Materials and the ceiling, and fall into the insulation, and behind it into the under-roof space. Getting into the colder zone, the air, steamy water, turns into condensate, which settles on roofing material, insulation and wooden structures causing them to corrode and lead to their destruction.

Regardless of whether the attic is residential or not, proper ventilation prevents from:

• The appearance and accumulation of excess moisture in the under-roof space.
• Wet insulation, which prevents the loss of thermal insulation qualities.
• Formations of fungal colonies and mold foci on wooden elements roofs.
• Corrosion formation on metal elements roofs.

Ventilation of the attic above the attic saves it from overheating in the hot season, and also prevents the formation of ice on roof overhangs in winter.

Features of proper air exchange

Natural ventilation in the residential attic space is carried out through supply and exhaust openings, the area of ​​which depends on its area, in the ratio of 0.2 m 2 /100 m 2. The inflow can be carried out through valves installed in the attic windows. Humid air is removed through aerators mounted in the roof plane or in the roof ridge.

Observing the rule of the ratio of the area of ​​supply and exhaust openings to the area of ​​the attic space, the attic can be ventilated through the gables. Air is supplied through wall supply valves installed in the lower part of the pediment, and the hood is carried out through adjustable ventilation grilles mounted in the upper part of the opposite pediment.

Ventilation of the roof and under-roof space is most often done using soffits. This device is nothing more than a perforated panel made of metal or plastic, and designed for sheathing the overhangs of the eaves. They can be used by installing around the perimeter of the house, or alternating with non-perforated panels.

Soffits as ventilation elements can only be used if, during the installation of the roofing “pie”, gaps were provided for the movement of air flows along the entire roof.

Ways to ventilate a residential attic

To date, there are several basic options for ventilation systems. Air circulation can be natural or forced. The natural movement of air masses occurs due to the difference in temperature, atmospheric and internal air. Forced movement is carried out with the help of fans, supply and (or) exhaust.

• The simplest option is to use the natural inflow and exhaust of the air mixture from the attic floor. This type of air exchange is most often chosen by those who do the attic ventilation with their own hands.
• With the complex geometry of the attic, you can use the method of creating excess pressure in its space using forced inflow. Thanks to this solution, the supply air masses will displace exhausted ones through natural exhaust openings, aerators, etc.
• With short exhaust ducts, they may not have sufficient draft to effective removal air from the attic. That is why many developers equip hoods with fans. The influx of air masses, in this case, can also be carried out both with the natural movement of the air flow, and with forced.
• The most complex ventilation system is the mechanically driven system. With this solution, powerful exhaust fans are used, which are mounted in the space above the attic. Air is supplied by supply fans mounted in the openings of the gables.

In order for the created forced ventilation system not to create discomfort, you should know that the performance of the exhaust fans must be equal to the performance of the supply mechanisms.

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How to make sure that the house was fresh, warm and dry, without drafts and dust?

In private houses, a natural ventilation system has become widespread, in which the movement of air is due to the difference in air temperatures in the room and on the street. The popularity of natural ventilation is due to the simplicity of the design of the system and its low cost.

As a rule, simple and cheap is not the most effective and profitable. In countries where people care more about their health and consider the cost of maintaining housing, widespread in private homes various systems forced ventilation.

In private houses, the following forced ventilation systems:

• forced exhaust ventilation when the removal of air from the premises of the house is forced, and the flow of air from the street occurs naturally, through the supply valves.
• forced supply and exhaust ventilation, in which both the inflow and removal of air into the premises of the house is performed forcibly.

Forced ventilation can be local (distributed) or centralized. V local system forced ventilation electric fans are installed in every room of the house, where necessary. V centralized forced ventilation system fans are located in one ventilation unit, which is connected by pipes to the premises of the house.

Natural ventilation system in a private house - features and disadvantages

The natural ventilation system in a private house consists of vertical channels that start in a ventilated room and end above the roof ridge.

The movement of air up the channels occurs under the action of forces (traction) caused by the difference in air temperatures at the inlet and outlet of the channel. Warm indoor air is lighter than cold outdoor air.

The draft in the ventilation duct is also affected by the wind, which can either increase or decrease the draft. The traction force also depends on other factors: the height and section of the ventilation duct, the presence of turns and narrowings, the thermal insulation of the duct, etc.

Scheme of ventilation of premises in a multi-storey private house

By building regulations natural ventilation channel should provide normative air exchange at an outside air temperature of +5 about C , excluding wind effects.

In summer, when the air temperature in the street is higher than the specified one, the air exchange deteriorates. Air circulation through the channels of natural ventilation almost completely stops when the outside temperature is above +15 about C.

In winter, the colder it is outside, the stronger the draft and the higher. Heat loss in winter through the natural ventilation system, according to some estimates, can reach 40% of all heat loss at home.

In houses, natural ventilation ducts usually exit from the kitchen, bathrooms, boiler room and dressing rooms. Additional channels are arranged for ventilation of the basement or, for the device.

On the upper floors of a private house it is also often necessary to arrange additional natural ventilation ducts from living rooms in order to ensure the air exchange required by the standards.

In attic rooms natural ventilation, as a rule, cannot provide the required air exchange due to a lack of draft in ventilation ducts of low height.

Norms of natural ventilation

Russian building regulations SP 55.13330.2011 "Single-apartment residential houses", clause 8.4. require:

The minimum performance of the ventilation system at home in maintenance mode should be determined from the calculation at least one exchange of air volume per hour in premises with permanent residence of people.

From the kitchen in maintenance mode, at least 60 m 3 of air per hour should be removed, from the bath, lavatory - 25 m 3 of air per hour.

The air exchange rate in other rooms, as well as in all ventilated rooms in non-operating mode, should be at least 0.2 room volume per hour.

A room with a permanent stay of people is a room in which the stay of people is provided for at least 2 hours continuously or 6 hours in total during the day.

For comparison, I will give the requirements for ventilation performance in apartment building, least:

The amount of air exchange specified in the standards must be provided for the design conditions: outdoor air temperature +5 about C, and the temperature of the indoor air in the cold period year, (for residential premises +22 about C) .

The intake of outside air into the premises should be provided through special supply devices in the outer walls or windows.

For apartments and premises, where at an outdoor temperature of +5 °C removal of the rated air flow is not ensured, mechanical exhaust ventilation should be provided.

Mechanical ventilation with partial use of natural ventilation systems for the supply or removal of air (mixed ventilation) should also be provided during periods of the year when microclimate parameters and air quality cannot be provided by natural ventilation.

For example, when the outside temperature is above +5 o C, the performance of natural ventilation ducts is reduced. In this case, it is allowed to increase air exchange in rooms with windows by opening windows, vents and transoms. In rooms without windows, mechanical forced exhaust ventilation should be provided.

The natural ventilation system in a private house works as follows

In old houses, apartments, fresh air from the street penetrates into living rooms through the gaps in wooden windows , then through the overflow holes in the doors(usually a gap between the edge of the door and the floor) reaches the kitchen and bathrooms and exits into the natural ventilation channel.

The main purpose of such ventilation is the removal of gas combustion products, moisture and odors from the kitchen and bathrooms. Living rooms in such a system are not sufficiently ventilated. In the rooms for ventilation it is necessary to open the windows.

In the case of using modern hermetic window structures in the house, for the inflow of fresh air, it is necessary to install special supply valves in the outer walls of the rooms or in the windows.

Often, supply valves are not made even in new houses. For air supply having to keep the window sashes open all the time, v best case for this, installing “micro-ventilation” fittings on the windows. (First choose and pay money for sealed windows with multiple levels of seals to keep out cold, noise and dust, and then keep them open at all times!? :-?)

It is also common to see airtight doors installed in the premises of a house, without a gap near the floor or other opening for air to pass through. Installation of hermetic doors overlaps natural circulation air between rooms.

Many are not even aware of the need provide a constant supply of fresh air to the rooms and air circulation between the rooms. By setting plastic windows and hermetic doors, and live in stuffiness, with condensation and mold. And in the indoor air, an increased concentration is deadly dangerous gases- and insidious.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation

All these open vents, ajar sashes, cracks in windows, openings-valves in the outer walls and windows cause drafts, serve as a source of street dust, allergenic plant pollen, insects and street noise.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation in our homes is the lack of control and regulation of the amount of air supplied to and removed from the premises.

As a result, often stuffy in the house, high humidity, condensation on the windows and in other places, fungus and mold appear. Usually, this indicates that ventilation does not cope with its task - to remove pollution, pollution and excess moisture released into the air. The amount of air leaving through the ventilation is clearly not enough.

In other houses in winter, it is more often the other way around, the air is very dry with relative humidity less than 30% (comfortable humidity 40-60%). This indicates that too much air is escaping through the ventilation. The frosty dry air entering the house does not have time to be saturated with moisture and immediately goes into the ventilation duct. And heat goes with the air. We get indoor microclimate discomfort and heat loss.

In summer, the draft in the natural ventilation channel decreases, up to the complete cessation of air movement in the channel. In this case, the rooms are ventilated by opening the windows. Other rooms without windows, for example, a bathroom, a toilet, a dressing room, cannot be ventilated in this way. Such in rooms that are left without ventilation in summer, easily and quickly accumulates wet air and then appears, smell, fungus and mold.

How to improve natural ventilation

The work of natural ventilation can be made more economical, if an automatic valve controlled by a humidity sensor is installed at the inlet to the ventilation duct. The degree of opening of the valve will depend on the humidity of the air in the room - the higher the humidity, the more the valve is open.

Installed in the rooms supply valves controlled by an outdoor temperature sensor. As the temperature decreases, the air density increases and the valve must be closed to prevent excess cold air from entering the room.

Automation of the valves will reduce heat loss with the air leaving through the ventilation by 20-30%, and the total heat loss of the house by 7-10%.

It should be understood that such local automation of the operation of each individual valve will not be able to fully eliminate the shortcomings of the natural ventilation system in the house. Installing automatic valves will only slightly improve ventilation, especially in winter.

It is possible, at a minimum, to install adjustable grilles and valves on the supply and exhaust ducts, and adjust them manually at least twice a year. For the winter period they cover, and with the onset of heat, the exhaust grilles and supply valves open completely.

Building regulations allow the air exchange rate in the non-working mode of the premises to be reduced to 0.2 room volume per hour, i.e. five times. There will always be rarely used rooms in the house. Especially on the upper floors of the house. In winter, be sure to close ventilation valves in rarely used rooms.

ventilator in outer wall provides forced air flow into the room. Fan power only 3 -7 Tue.

The ventilator has the following advantages over a supply valve:

• The volume of air coming from the street is limited only by the fan power.
• They create excessive pressure in the room, due to which, in houses and apartments with a poorly functioning exhaust ventilation channel, air exchange increases, and polluted air from neighboring rooms and the basement is excluded.
• Reduce the dependence of natural ventilation on climatic factors.
• Achievable deep air purification from dust, allergens and odors as a result of the use of more efficient filters with high aerodynamic resistance.
• Provide the best.

Ventilators equipped with an electronic climate control system, air heating, special filters are often called breathers.

Inexpensive electronic devices for home use are commercially available that measure air humidity. Hang this device on the wall and adjust throughput ventilation channels, focusing on the readings of the device. Maintain optimal humidity air in residential premises 40-60%.

Check availability and dimensions ventilation holes to move air between rooms in the house. The area of ​​the overflow opening for air outlet from the living room must be at least 200 cm 2. Usually leave a gap between the edge of the door and the floor in a room with a height of 2-3 cm.

Overflow opening for air inlet to the kitchen, bathroom or to another room equipped with a ventilation exhaust duct, should be at least 800 cm 2. Here it is better to install ventilation grill at the bottom of the door or inner wall premises.

When moving from a room to a room with a ventilation duct, the air must pass through no more than two overflow openings (two doors).

Ventilation ducts that pass through an unheated room (attic) must be insulated. Fast cooling air in the duct reduces the draft and leads to condensation from the exhaust air. The route of the natural ventilation channel should not have horizontal sections, which also reduce draft.

Fan in natural ventilation duct

To improve the operation of natural ventilation, kitchen hoods are installed, as well as electric fans at the inlet of ventilation ducts. Such fans are suitable only for short-term and intensive ventilation of premises during periods of significant release of moisture and pollution. The fans are very noisy, their performance, and hence the power consumption, exceeds the values ​​\u200b\u200bnecessary for constant ventilation.

It should be noted that installing a fan in an existing natural ventilation duct reduces the clearance of the duct. The autorotation of the blades (rotation under the pressure of the incoming air of the blades of a non-working fan) further increases the aerodynamic resistance of the channel. As a result, setting fan significantly reduces the force of natural draft in the channel.

A similar situation is when the kitchen hood above the stove is connected to the only natural ventilation channel in the kitchen.

Filters, valves and a fan in the kitchen hood practically block the natural draft in the ventilation duct. A kitchen with the hood turned off remains without ventilation, which worsens the air exchange throughout the house.

To remedy the situation, in the air duct between the natural ventilation channel and the kitchen hood it is recommended to place a tee with a check valve on the side outlet. When the hood is not working check valve opens, allowing free passage of air from the kitchen to the ventilation duct.

When turned on kitchen hood a large amount of warm air is thrown out into the street for the sole purpose of removing odors and other contaminants that form over the stove.

To avoid heat loss, it is recommended to install an umbrella over the stove, equipped with a fan, filters and odor absorbers for deep cleaning air. After filtering, the air purified from odors and pollution is sent back to the room. Such an umbrella is often called a filter hood with recirculation. It should be borne in mind that the savings from lower heating costs are somewhat leveled due to the need to periodically replace the filters in the hood.

Available for sale fans controlled by a humidity sensor. The fan turns on when a certain threshold of humidity in the room is reached and turns off when it decreases. All the above features of the operation of fans in the natural ventilation system are also preserved when working with a humidity sensor.

In any case, the operation of the fan only leads to an increase in draft in the ventilation duct and a decrease in humidity in the room. But he is not able to limit natural draft, preventing excessive dryness of the air and heat loss in winter.

In addition, in the natural ventilation system, several elements located in different parts of the house work in concert - supply valves, exhaust ducts, overflow grilles between rooms.

Turning on a fan in one of the channels often leads to a disruption in the operation of other elements of the system. For example, air inlets in a home often fail to let through the sudden increase in air required to run a fan. As a result, when the hood in the kitchen is turned on, the draft in the exhaust duct in the bathroom overturns - air from the street begins to enter the house through the exhaust duct in the bathroom.

Natural ventilation in a private house is a system:

• simple and cheap to install;
• does not have any mechanisms requiring an electric drive;
• reliable, does not break;
• very cheap to operate - the costs are associated only with the need to perform periodic inspections and cleaning of ventilation ducts;
• does not make noise;
• the efficiency of its work is highly dependent on atmospheric conditions - most of the time the ventilation does not work in the optimal mode;
• has a limited ability to adjust its performance, only in the direction of reducing air exchange;
• in winter, the operation of the natural ventilation system leads to significant heat losses;
• in summer, the ventilation system does not work, ventilation of the premises is possible only through open windows, vents;
• there is no possibility of preparing the air supplied to the room - filtering, heating or cooling, changing humidity;
• does not provide the necessary comfort (air exchange) - which causes stuffiness, dampness (fungi, mold) and drafts, and also serves as a source of street dust (plant pollen) and insects, reduces the sound insulation of rooms.

Ventilation of the upper floors of a multi-storey private house

in a lot storey building, as in a large ventilation duct, there is a natural draft, under the influence of which air from the first floor rushes up the clearance of the stairs to the upper floors.

If no measures are taken, then on the upper floors of the house we will always have stuffiness and high humidity, and in the house temperature difference between floors.

There are two options for natural ventilation of the upper floors of the house.

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Ventilation in a wooden house

Interestingly, traditional for Russia houses with walls made of logs or timber do not have special devices for ventilation. Ventilation of the premises in such houses occurs due to walls (“breathing walls”), ceilings and windows, as well as as a result of air moving through the chimney when the stove is fired.

In the designs of modern wooden house various methods of sealing are increasingly being used - machine profiling of the mating surfaces of logs and beams, sealants for interventional seams, vapor and windproof films in ceilings, sealed windows. The walls of the house are sheathed and insulated, treated with various poisonous compounds.

In the rooms of the house, as a rule, there are no stoves.

The ventilation system in such modern wooden houses just needed.

Ventilation of wardrobes and pantries

In the dressing room, pantry must be made ventilation. Without ventilation, the rooms will smell, humidity will increase, and even condensation, fungus and mold may appear on the walls.

The scheme of natural ventilation of these rooms should exclude the flow of air from the dressing room or pantry into the living rooms.

If the doors of these rooms open onto a corridor, a hall or a kitchen, then the rooms are ventilated in the same way as the living rooms in the house are ventilated. For the influx of fresh air from the street, a supply valve is placed in the window (if any) or in the wall. In the dressing room door, pantries leave a gap at the bottom, between the door and the floor, or make another hole for air to pass through, for example, in lower part doors insert a ventilation grille.

Fresh air enters the dressing room or pantry through the supply valve, then leaves through the hole in the door to the corridor, and then goes to the kitchen, to the exhaust duct of the natural ventilation of the house.

Between the dressing room or storage room and the room where there is a natural ventilation channel there should be more than two doors.

If the dressing room doors open into living room, then the movement of air for ventilation of the dressing room should be organized in the opposite direction - from the living room, through the hole in the door, into the ventilation duct of the dressing room. In this variant dressing room equipped with a natural ventilation channel.

Ventilation in your city

Ventilation

Ventilation of a private house. Air flow in the house - video:

The purpose of ventilation is to improve the air quality in the home. There is a conflict between the need to improve air quality and minimize device costs modern ventilation and reduce its energy consumption.

Meanwhile, ventilation is not the only way to improve indoor air quality. The most important is the control of sources of air pollution. We are talking about everyday habits, such as no smoking in the room, taking care that bacteria and fungi do not multiply in the apartment.

The quality of the air in the house clearly depends on whether materials with low level harmful secretions. Natural materials such as wood, stone or glass are considered primarily as such.

With a reasonable choice of materials at the construction stage, good quality home air can be maintained even if a less expensive and energy intensive ventilation system is installed.

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