Orchard summer protection and fertilizer. Typical top dressing of fruit and berry plants

Material prepared by: Yuri Zelikovich, teacher of the Department of Geoecology and Nature Management

The fact that the picture is not photoshop and not cool 3D. On those same 6 acres, it is really possible to plant a garden that not only provides the family with fruits and berries for the winter, but also gives a significant commodity surplus. How much is a raspberry in the market today? Al renklodiki with the village blacksmith's cam of old times? And one of the indispensable conditions for a consistently successful fruit and berry culture is timely proper feeding trees and shrubs.

At wild ancestors fruit crops pronounced periodicity of fruiting. In some year, the branches break from the harvest, then 2-3 years of completely barren crops, and then the yield stabilizes until the next surge. Regular fertilization of trees and shrubs in the orchard allows not only and not so much to smooth out the peaks and dips in productivity. Without it, fruit and berry crops can "remember" their origin and return to the natural biocycle. At the same time, not only the collection from the tree / bush falls, but also the size decreases, the taste and nutritional value of the fruits suffer, the content of vitamins in them decreases and biologically active substances. An experienced gardener will say in this case: the variety is spoiled by an illiterate culture, meaning a plant of this variety.

However, tree crops are in no hurry to live their whole lives in a season, as herbaceous annuals, bulbous and tuberous; physiological processes in fruit and berry crops proceed more slowly and always with an eye to the future, even if there are no special storage tissues in the plant, therefore, feeding trees and shrubs should be carried out more moderately and with more precise observance of agricultural technology. It is impossible to overfeed fruit and berries: the negative consequences of overfeeding will also be felt in subsequent years. Symptoms - again, a decrease in collection, worse taste and less useful fruits, up to harmfulness due to excess nitrates. Which is completely unacceptable for a garden, because. it requires many more initial investments than a vegetable garden, and it takes several years to reach profitability, at least a year for berry bushes. But then a well-groomed garden will provide much more income than a vegetable garden, requiring less routine work. The materials of this article are intended primarily for owners of a small household or country garden who do not have an excess of time and money to hire labor.

Basis - calculation

The garden of the garden is different, and the correct feeding of fruit trees is carried out taking into account a number of interrelated factors:

• Plant type and variety.
• Physiological stage of its development.
• The nature of physical development and the method of cultivation (dwarf, normal, lush / tall).
• The type and nature of the soil under the plant.
• Local climatic conditions, general and in a given year.

The formulation, dosage and fertilizer application schemes according to these parameters are summarized in agronomic tables for certain types and varieties or are given in gardening guides. It is quite difficult for a non-specialist to understand them, therefore, feeding fruit trees and berry bushes by amateurs in summer cottages and household plots is most often carried out according to standard schemes or proven recipes, see below. If the climatic conditions and soil in the garden of the author of the recommendation and her reader are more or less similar, then the latter’s garden will “keep varieties” and bear fruit relatively stably, but most likely not at the highest possible level in this place. In addition, the “folk” recipes for feeding fruit and berries in Runet are also dark, and it’s probably not easier to understand what’s what in them, without experience, than in agro tables.

The purpose of this publication, firstly, is to give the reader information that will help to understand the agronomic tables and, with their help, determine what kind of fertilizers for trees and shrubs of a given species and variety are needed on a given soil in given climatic conditions, when, in what way and in what doses to make them. Secondly, to help you understand which of the typical schemes / which recipe is best for your country house, what can be in it, what needs to be changed, and what cannot be changed, based on the available conditions and opportunities.

Actually, the calculation of fruit and berry fertilizers is generally not complicated. Suppose, according to the tables for such and such a variety in certain soil and climatic conditions (for example, the Melba apple tree on the chernozem in the Kursk region or she Simirenko rennet on the podzol in the Vologda region) in the stem culture, it turned out that the annual need for potassium of a tree of this physiological age (see below) and size is 60 g. According to soil conditions and availability, we select potash fertilizer and in the specification we look at the proportion of the active substance. Let's say it says 17%. Then this tree needs 60 / 0.17 \u003d 353 g of the selected fertilizer for a year. Round up to 350 (better to underfeed a little than overfeed).

Now we take into account that for slowly living arboreal plants, the main filling of the soil with fertilizers should be carried out in the fall. By default, unless otherwise specified in the cultivation manual for this variety, we postpone for autumn dressing, depending on the physiological maturity of the plant (see below):

1. On light permeable fertile soils - 1/4 of the annual norm.
2. On them, infertile (skinny sandy loam, cartilage, etc.) - 1/3 of the annual norm.
3. On heavy and moderately fertile - 1/2 of the annual norm.
4. On the same infertile - 2/3 of the annual norm.

Of the remaining half, we bring in the spring when refueling the soil, and the rest is evenly distributed over seasonal top dressing. For beginner gardeners on ordinary garden land, it is better to allocate 0.5 annual norms for autumn dressing and another 0.25 for spring.

NPK and others

The role of the main nutrients nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (NPK) in plant life is as follows:

• Nitrogen - contributes to the growth of green mass.
• Phosphorus - necessary for the balance of physiological processes, increases the endurance of plants, their resistance to diseases and pests.
• Potassium - necessary for the growth of roots, the formation of new shoots, the synthesis of sugars in fruits. It also provides winter hardiness.

The main elements in some modern manuals include 2-valent iron and magnesium. Although plants require them in microdoses, chlorophyll formation and photosynthesis are impossible without them. Copper, zinc, boron, manganese, sulfur, molybdenum, calcium are microelements; they are necessary for the synthesis of phytohormones and other plant biochemistry. As a rule, if the soil is not completely depleted, mature plants get enough of them from it or as a natural admixture to basic fertilizers, especially organic fertilizers (see below).

About foliar top dressing

The effect of "ambulance" for wood foliar top dressing with the main elements does not give. It is possible to feed woody main plants through the leaves only in favorable years and always if there are obvious signs of starvation on one of them. Also, in favorable years, during the periods of flowering and preparation for fruiting (at the stage of ovaries), it is desirable to carry out boron-zinc-copper foliar micro-feeding (1-2, 3-5 and 30-40 g of active substance per 10 l of water, respectively); for some cultures, eg. grapes, foliar micro-feeding at the beginning of fruiting is required. In unfavorable years, foliar feeding of tree crops should not be carried out.

Together or separately?

They are also ineffective and even harmful for tree feeding with complex mineral fertilizers, excluding autumn and spring soil dressing. The main nutrients for tree crops must be applied separately at intervals of at least 4-5 days. The sequence is phosphorus, potassium, then nitrogen. In favorable years, phosphorus and potassium can be applied together in well and deeply moistened soil: phosphorus in the soil migrates very quickly, potassium, on the contrary, slowly, so that they themselves separate.

Another exception to these rules is the seasonal feeding of juvenile plants (see below). It is possible and even desirable to feed them with NPK in the form of nitrophoska. South approx. line Kursk-Lipetsk in rather wet years - more concentrated nitroammophos, adhering to the same absolute dosage (in g of active ingredients per plant or sq. m).

Stages of maturity of trees and shrubs

Application technique (see below), formulation and dosage of fertilizer for fruit and berry crops significantly depend on the degree of physiological maturity of plants. There are such stages:

1. Sapling - a tree up to 2 years, a bush within a year after planting. During this time, the seedlings are fully rooted. The planting pit is filled with fertilizer during planting (see below); other top dressings are not carried out;
2. "Teenager" - juvenile, i.e. young, well established, but not yet flowering plant. In addition to autumn-spring dressing, regular seasonal top dressing is carried out with complete NPK with trace elements;
3. A young tree/bush is flowering, fruiting, but has not yet reached the level of productivity of this variety in the present conditions. Experienced gardeners artificially limit the productivity of young fruit trees by removing excess ovaries. The soil is filled in autumn and spring with full NPK. Seasonal top dressing of young trees is carried out in average and favorable years annually, see below. In an unfavorable year, seasonal top dressing is excluded;
4. An adult plant - productivity has stabilized. The soil is filled mainly in the fall; it is undesirable to force spring refueling at the expense of autumn. Seasonal top dressing is carried out no more than once every 2 years in favorable years;
5. Aging - productivity decreases. The plant is “sent to a working pension”: autumn-spring dressings are made as long as it remains profitable or satisfies the owners’ own needs, and seasonal ones are completely excluded. How to proceed with it - see for yourself, under cutting or for a well-deserved rest as an element of landscape design.

Note: one of the main tasks of a fruit and berry breeder is to breed a variety that “skips” through the unproductive and costly adolescent stage for the gardener as quickly as possible. Therefore, in many cultivated varieties it is weakly expressed or completely invisible.

Top dressing schedule

We will talk more about what, when and how to feed fruit and berries. In the meantime, we note the general features.

First- starting from 1-1.5 years (if planted in spring) for shrubs and from 2-2.5 years for trees, autumn-spring soil refills are done regularly annually.

Second, seasonal top dressing in favorable years is carried out depending on the fertility of the soil and the irrigation of the garden once, twice or thrice:

• Garden irrigated on fertile soil - after the appearance of the first leaves and at the beginning of flowering.
• The garden is irrigated, the soil is medium or infertile - after the appearance of the first leaves, at the beginning of flowering and after the appearance of ovaries.
• Rainfed garden (non-irrigated) - after the appearance of the first leaves in favorable years, while there is excess moisture in the soil.

Third, in special years, emergency (irregular) feeding is possible. For example, it is warm, light, short warm rains are frequent. Plants laid many ovaries; the harvest is coming - you'll lick your fingers, or the cider fermentation tubs will burst. But one fruit needs at least a certain number of leaves; e.g. indoor Pavlovsk lemon - 20. If they are not enough, after the first seasonal feeding, but before flowering, plants can be given nitrogen. Or vice versa, the year is hot, dry, the garden is irrigated. The harvest is supposed to be small, but valuable. Then, during the period of fruit formation (apple ovaries with walnuts, plums with beans, cherries with peas), you can give more potassium or, better, wood ash. It doesn’t come out in quantity - let’s take quality, sugar content.

Note: emergency fertilizing of fruit and berries with organic or mineral chemical fertilizers is recommended to be done only with some experience in gardening. Without it, the plants from them either zazhiruyut, or depleted. Both will “spoil the variety” for years, if not forever. Ash can be fed without fear.

organic or chemistry?

For autumn-spring dressings, nitrogen-containing organic fertilizers: manure, compost, humus. When preparing them for use (see below), organics can be supplemented with phosphorus, but potassium is added separately. Seasonal top dressings, which require potassium and phosphorus most of all, are made quickly digestible mineral fertilizers.

Since autumn, organic matter has been used fresh - completely soaked in a plastic (slightly wet) form; in the spring - in the form of dried crushed sypts. In both cases, the preparation of organic fertilizers takes approx. 2 months The initial mass is laid out in the shade at a distance from residential buildings in layers of 15-20 cm. Each layer is poured at the rate of:

• – 150 g/sq. m.
• – 220 g/sq. m.
• from the tops of garden plants - 200 g / sq. m.
• Food compost - 70 g / sq. m.
• Humus - 250 g / sq. m.

Note: organic slurry, if needed, is prepared from sypts, but not from fresh.

It will also be very useful to spray each layer with a 2% solution of potassium humate at a rate of 250 ml / sq. m; potassium in the form of humate is compatible with phosphorus. The pile is brought to a height of 1-1.3 m, covered with earth from above, covered with turf from the sides. The aged fresh on the sypets is dried in a ventilated room; do not dry in the sun. Since autumn, prepared organic matter is brought under the mulch (see below), in the spring under it or in the snow.

siderates

On a small private plot, the most “lazy” and cheapest, but at the same time the most effective way to completely fill the soil for fruit trees in the fall is to sow green manure nitrogen-fixing crops throughout the garden. Sow peas, alfalfa, clover. Nitrogen-fixing cereals (rye, oats) are not suitable for the garden: they are photophilous, they will not develop in full force in the garden and will not accumulate many nutrients. In addition, eggs and pupae of pests successfully overwinter in the hollow internodes of cereal stems.

Sow after harvest. With the onset of cold weather, the earth with withered tops is dug up or plowed up. There is no need to mulch green manure, except that on the eve of a snowy winter, you need to sprinkle it with a thin, 1-3 fingers, layer of earth.

In the snow, under mulch or in holes?

As you know, near-stem fruit circles. But - not everything is so simple: slugs, earthworms, mice thrive under the mulch. Worms, of course, are only useful, but moles come to the worm. Therefore, it is desirable to give fruit and berry fertilizers under mulch either in the fall under the cold, or in the order of spring refueling before the heat. If the garden is on level ground, and enough snow has accumulated during the winter, then in the spring it is better to fertilize fruit and berries in the snow: dressing will saturate the root ball more evenly and deeper, and melt water will enhance its effect without the risk of harming the plants. Organics are applied over the snow with the appearance of the first thawed patches.

The conditions for fertilizing fruit and berries in the snow are not always created and are not possible everywhere, therefore, spring refueling of the soil with fertilizers in the garden is most often carried out under mulch. The main question here is: where to get it, mulch, in the spring, did everything get wet during the winter? Non-harmful, non-infested, and non-acidifying soil (see below)? For one way to provide yourself with mulch in the spring, see next. video.

Video: where to get mulch in spring

Another problem is that the most affordable wood mulch often acidifies the soil, which is highly undesirable for the garden. It certainly sours its bark, even if it is dust from the times of Tsar Antipas. Therefore, before mulching, it is imperative to check the acidity of the soil. Litmus paper for chemically impure samples often gives incorrect results, but these days it's easy to rent an electronic pH meter for the day. For ways to determine soil acidity, see the video tutorial:

Video: how to determine soil acidity

Note: to prevent acidification of the mulched soil, it is limed every 5-7 years from autumn under the cold with lime or dolomite flour at the rate of 1 kg per 1 sq. km. m. If your garden is small, not marketable, or its marketability is not of decisive importance, then the acidity of the soil in it at the level of “suitable-does-not good” can be determined by indicator plants, see next. video clip.

Video: plants-indicators of soil acidity

Seasonal top dressing for a novice private gardener is best done by the point method. For large commercial gardens, it is too time-consuming, but safe: even gross violations of the dosage of fertilizers do not adversely affect plants and damage to surface roots by inept digging is excluded. , like a rammer, so that it is more convenient to press.
For spot feeding of fruit and berries after shedding the earth (see below), on it with a peg or mentally mark the contour of the crown projection. Then, retreating 0.5 m outward, holes 30-40 cm deep are pricked with a stake every 0.8-1 m. Fertilizer is applied to the holes, evenly distributed over all, wrapped with earth and the remaining water is added. An additional plus of spot dressing is that it stimulates the growth of roots in depth, which makes the plants more resilient and stabilizes the yield of the garden.

Note: for spot feeding of shrubs, holes for fertilizers are pricked linearly between rows.

We feed the plants

Fertilizer of fruit and berry crops is carried out in the evening; preferably on a warm overcast day, but not during the rain. Fertilizers are applied to abundantly moistened soil. The land for fertilizers should be shed an hour or two before they are applied. Approximate flow rate into minimally moistened soil (a lump clenched in a fist crumbles when the hand is unclenched):

• Juvenile trees and shrubs (except hazelnuts) - 1.5 buckets per 1 sq. m near the trunk circle.
• Young trees and hazelnuts - 2.5 buckets per sq. m near the trunk circle.
• Mature trees - 3.5-6 buckets for the same area.

The strait is carried out in portions, waiting for the complete absorption of the next bay. If 10-15 minutes after pouring the next portion, the soil, compressed in a fist, sticks together in a lump with fingerprints, without sticking to them in a continuous layer, then this is a sign that enough has been spilled and fertilizers need to be applied in half an hour or an hour. After also half an hour or an hour after their introduction, they are added in the same order in the amount of 1/4-1/3 of the water to the strait.

seedlings

Fertilization of seedlings, as you know, is carried out at planting, and then they are not fed until they are fully rooted. The method of fertilizing fruit and berries during planting is also known: the pit is filled with a bucket or two of organic matter, then the shovel is filled with earth for half a bayonet, filled with water, planted and watered. With the correct planting, from autumn, the pit is filled with fresh water - it, slowly warming up in winter, will warm up the roots and help the plant to overwinter. For spring planting (which, generally speaking, is undesirable), the pit needs to be filled with chickpeas: fresh water that intensively decays during increased heat can burn the roots. It is useful to add 100-150 g of superphosphate or a half dose of superphosphate to a bucket of sypts, but in this case, the dry mixture must be prepared for 2 weeks and let it mature in an open container (not metal!) In the air under a canopy.

Note: when planting a walnut, you need to put a solid granite boulder or fragment in the planting hole so that the growing rod rests against it. Then the first nuts will have to wait 2-3 years, not 6-8 years.

Typical top dressing of fruit-bearing fruit and berry

pome fruits

This includes pears; in the south - quince and dogwood. The peculiarity of pome fruits is that autumn-spring dressings of the soil under them begin to be carried out upon leaving the juvenile phase, after the plants bloom for the first time. The next refueling after the first one on ordinary and fertile soil is carried out after a year has passed; then - after 3-4 years, the older, the less often. On infertile soils, the soil is fertilized annually until it reaches stable fruiting, then after 2-3 years. The procedure for fertilizing pome fruits (without autumn sowing green manure) like this:

1. In autumn, after falling approx. 70-80% of the foliage in the soil in a dotted way, 200 g of potassium sulfate per young tree and 300 g of it for an adult;
2. A nitrogen-phosphorus mixture is immediately prepared: for 10 kg of fresh organics, 300 g of double superphosphate or 600 g of simple superphosphate. The norm of the mixture per tree is 12-15 kg per young, 20-25 kg per adult, depending on the fertility of the soil;
3. The nitrogen-phosphorus mixture is left to ripen under a canopy in a dish covered with a cloth for at least 2 weeks;
4. Under the cold or when the plants "fall asleep" for the winter (the shoots of this year will coarsen, the buds will wrinkle), the nitrogen-phosphorus mixture is applied under the mulch;
5. If green manure has not been sown since autumn, in the spring, in the snow or under mulch, they give fresh organic matter without phosphorus in the amount of 1/4 of the autumn dressing;
6. After unfolding the leaves, young trees are fed with solutions of 30 g per 1 liter of water, or 400 ml of slurry per 1 liter of water, or 150 ml of slurry of fermented chicken manure per 1 liter of water. Solutions are used immediately upon preparation;
7. After flowering, top dressing is carried out pointwise in the wells with a 5% solution of superphosphate at the rate of 30 g of dry matter per young tree and twice as much for an adult. Double superphosphate is used not only in half the amount, but also in half the concentration, i.e. the dose of the working solution per tree remains the same;
8. After the formation of the ovaries (they have reached the size of a hazelnut), they are fed with potash: potassium sulfate (preferably), potassium magnesia,. The application rates for an adult tree are 20 g, 25 g and 50-70 g, respectively, for a young tree half as much. Potash fertilizers are applied with 5% solutions, ash - with concentrated infusion diluted 10 times, see below;
9. In especially fruitful years (see below), under the white filling of fruits, they give potash top dressing in the amount of 1/4 of it under the ovary (see previous paragraph);
10. After harvesting, the best way for beginners to prepare trees for winter is to mulch tree trunks with humus, with the addition of wood ash, a glass per bucket, 10-15 cm thick.

In lean years, phosphorus-potassium seasonal top dressing is not carried out. If a crop of more than half of the maximum possible is expected (over 70-75 kg from an adult tree of varieties of ordinary yield), carbamide is given 1.5 times more, and potash is 25% more. To obtain a concentrated infusion of ash, its dry dose is mixed with water with thorough stirring and washed out for a day, stirring occasionally. Then another day is allowed to settle. Light sediment is ash concentrate; the precipitate is discarded.

Stone fruits

These are plum, cherry, sweet cherry, apricot. The soil for them is dressed in the same way as for pomaceous ones, but compared to the latter, seasonal top dressings have a trace. peculiarities:

• Spring top dressing "for foliage" is carried out at the rate of 10 g / sq. m near the trunk circle for adult trees and 7 g / sq. m for young people;
• In favorable (warm and moderately humid) years, nitrophoska 30 g/sq. m or nitroammophos 20 g/sq. m;
• 4-5 days later, give a 5% solution of chloride (preferably) or potassium sulfate. Seed ions do not like chlorine, but stone fruits are tolerant of it, but potassium chloride is absorbed faster;
• The first potassium top dressing for fruiting (similar to item 8 in the previous list) is carried out when the ovaries reach the size of a pea (cherry, cherry) or bean (plum, apricot);
• Additional potash top dressing is not carried out regardless of the yield in the current year.

shrubs

Shrubs “live faster” than trees, so they are given half or 1/3 of the planting dressing in the pit from what is needed for the tree. Autumn-spring soil filling begins a year after autumn planting or 1.5 years later (before autumn) after spring. The dose of dressing is considered half per 1 sq. m of the projection of the crown in comparison with it for the tree. For example, an apple tree shades 10 square meters at noon in the summer. m, and a bush of 1 sq. m. We divide the dose of dressing for the apple tree by 20, we get the rate of autumn-spring application under the bush; bushes, they are unpretentious and economical. What is important for shrubs - after the first flowering, the autumn filling of the soil under the cold is canceled; it is replaced by top dressing after harvest.

The basic composition of the mixture for seasonal dressings bushes in middle lane you can take the same one: for an adult bush 4-5 kg ​​of compost, 10-15 g of potassium sulfate and 20-30 g of superphosphate. Mixtures are allowed to ripen for 2 weeks; the submission schedule is as follows:

1. At the phase of active flowering (first decade of May);
2. During the period of increased growth of fruitful shoots (late May - early June);
3. During the formation of the ovaries (early July);
4. After the harvest.

However, the methods of seasonal fertilization of shrubs, depending on the type of crop, are different; for the most popular berries they are:

• Blackcurrant - fertilizer is scattered under the bushes and dug up shallowly, by 8-10 cm.
• - fertilizer is applied with a tape under the bushes and covered with sand. An option is sawdust mulch, but then you need to control the acidity of the soil once a year after harvesting and, if necessary, carry out its liming.
• Gooseberries are very sick on acidic waterlogged soils, so it is advisable to replace compost with 10-15 ammonium nitrate per bush. The earth with the scattered dry mixture is hoeed no deeper than 6-8 cm. dolomite flour per 1 sq. m. Lime flour is not suitable, because. gooseberries need quite a lot of magnesium.

Last note: Shrubs are more responsive than trees to foliar feeding, therefore, in wet years, forcing their yield with foliar feeding is quite acceptable and will not harm the plants.

Video: basic fertilizer for fruit trees

Like all living things, an orchard needs nourishment. Therefore, fertilizers for fruit trees come to the fore - they are also necessary, like timely watering, regular weeding, plowing and mulching. But before you feed the garden, of course, you need to have an idea of ​​how to fertilize fruit trees in spring and autumn, and in what proportions to fertilize.

Fertilizers, along with other agricultural practices, have a great influence on the growth and productivity of orchards. By selecting nutrients in certain proportions, linking this with soil cultivation methods, it is possible to influence the yield value, fruit quality, as well as frost and drought resistance. With a continuous ratio of individual elements, negative results can be obtained. High efficiency in fertilizing fruit trees in spring and autumn can be achieved by knowing the basics of their use in the garden.

Features of fertilization for fruit trees

Before feeding fruit trees, first of all, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil of the site (natural supply of nutrients, mechanical composition, environmental reaction, etc.), the requirements of plants for nutritional conditions, the method of soil maintenance, the age of the plantations and other factors. Depending on these conditions, the types and rates of applied fertilizers will change.

Fruit plants are perennial crops, so the effect of fertilizers extends to them not only in the year of application, but also in subsequent years.

Of great importance on the effectiveness of fertilizing fruit trees in spring and autumn is the pre-planting dressing of the soil and the use of fertilizers in previous years.

In the first years of life, fruit plants are particularly demanding on phosphorus, since it stimulates the growth of roots and ensures the growth of the above-ground mass of the tree. Deep application phosphorus-potassium fertilizers contributes to the development of the root system, as if dragging it deeper and thereby increasing the drought resistance and winter hardiness of plants.

Due to the low mobility of phosphorus-potassium supplements of fruit trees and their fixation mainly in the zone of application, it is especially important to fill the soil before planting the garden with increased doses of these fertilizers, designed for a significant period of their action.

In growing gardens, the introduction of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers into the zone of distribution of the bulk of the roots is difficult. The soil, especially near trees, is saturated with roots, which should not be damaged.

The introduction of nitrogen fertilizers for fruit trees due to their good solubility and mobility in the soil is not difficult.

As a rule, surface sieving is used, mechanized or manual, or applied in the form of an aqueous solution.

The main task when using nitrogen fertilizers is to reduce nitrogen losses, since its ammonia form is volatile, and its nitrate form is mobile, especially on light soil and during irrigation. In this regard, all nitrogen fertilizers applied in dry form must be immediately incorporated into the soil.

On light soils and during irrigation, high doses of nitrogen fertilizers should not be used, but they should be applied fractionally and more often than on heavy soils and without irrigation.

Before feeding fruit trees, remember that in the spring, in the first half of the growing season nutrients spent on flowering, growth of shoots and fruits. At this time, plants need all three basic elements - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. After the growth of shoots stops from the second half of summer, nutrients are spent on the growth of fruits, the laying of flower buds, and are also deposited. At this time, the need for nitrogen nutrition decreases. An excess of nitrogen during this period can cause protracted plant growth and reduce their winter hardiness.

When deciding how to fertilize fruit trees, remember that the need for plants to feed is highly dependent on their age. In fruit-bearing trees, it is much higher than in young ones, which is caused by a large consumption of nutrients for the formation of a crop, as well as by the peculiarities of the development of the root system. If in young trees the roots grow rapidly, covering from year to year new unused soil layers, then with age, the formation of numerous lateral branches in the already covered volume is observed and its more severe depletion occurs.

When choosing what kind of fertilizer to feed fruit trees, do not forget that the use of top dressing should be closely linked to soil fertility and nutrient supply. It is necessary to determine the presence of available forms of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the soil and only on this basis to decide on the timing of fertilizer application, their doses and ratios.

Most of the soils of the middle zone are of the chernozem type and are characterized by high natural fertility.

Such soils, with good tillage and moisture, can annually replace significant amounts of necessary elements nutrition. However, these reserves will quickly be depleted if the proper application of fertilizers does not maintain soil fertility at a high level.

A video of fertilizing fruit trees will help you better understand how to fertilize a garden:

How to feed fruit trees in spring: nitrogen fertilizers

Nitrogen is one of the most essential elements for plants. It is part of proteins, chlorophyll and many other organic substances. The main mass of nitrogen is concentrated in the organic matter of the soil and, above all, in humus.

Nitrogen is available to plants mainly in the form of mineral compounds - ammonium and nitrates, which are formed during the decomposition of organic matter by special microorganisms. Nitrate nitrogen is more available due to the fact that most of the ammonium in the soil is in an absorbed state and is gradually nitrified. The nitrification process proceeds most actively with good air access, sufficient soil moisture and a temperature of + 15-20 °.

If the soil in the garden has been loosened since spring, sufficiently moistened and manure is applied periodically, then with the onset of warm weather, a sufficient amount of nitrates for plants accumulates in it. In the case when the activity of microorganisms is suppressed, plants may lack nitrogen even on humus-rich chernozems. Therefore, it is difficult to obtain high yields only at the expense of natural nitrogen reserves.

An acute lack of nitrates is observed in the soil of the garden in early spring, when the need of fruit trees for nitrogen is great, and the process of nitrification is weak.

Especially a lot of nitrogen is consumed by plants during the period of increased shoot growth and fruit formation. The application of nitrogen fertilizers at this time is very important. Lack or excess of nitrogen in the soil disrupts the flow of phosphorus and potassium into fruit plants. An excess of nitrates is more easily tolerated by plants than large amounts of ammonium, especially with a lack of carbohydrates.

When applying nitrogen fertilizers, it is necessary to take into account the condition of the plants: growth vigor, leaf color intensity, etc.

Visual signs of nitrogen deficiency are the pale green color of the leaves, weak growth of shoots in conditions of sufficient moisture, premature fall of leaves, crushing of fruits, etc.

What fertilizers to feed fruit trees: phosphorus top dressing

Phosphorus is the second main nutrient found in the soil in the form of organic and mineral compounds. Plants feed on phosphorus mineral compounds - on chernozems, mainly calcium phosphates, most of which are inaccessible to plants. Mobilization of phosphorus from potential reserves is more difficult than nitrogen. Phosphorus top dressing needed by plants throughout the growing season. Sufficient supply of phosphorus contributes to the faster emergence of new leaves, better development of the root system, earlier and faster flowering. It affects the processes of formation of fruiting organs and the laying of flower buds for the next year's harvest.

Phosphorus top dressings are those fertilizers that need to be applied regularly under fruit trees, since with a lack of phosphorus, the growth of shoots and roots is greatly reduced, flowering and fruit ripening are delayed. Improving nutrition with phosphorus increases the sugar content in plants, increases their winter hardiness. With insufficient supply of phosphorus, nitrogen fertilizers are used incompletely. In some cases, large doses of nitrogen with a lack of phosphorus adversely affect the growth and development of plants.

How to feed fruit trees in spring and autumn: potash fertilizers

Potassium takes part in the formation of carbohydrates, promotes the movement of nutrients in plants, increases their winter hardiness and drought resistance, resistance to pests and diseases.

Potassium in the soil is in mineral form. Organic forms of this element have not been found. Its gross content is several times higher than that of nitrogen and phosphorus. Hence, the lack of potassium in the soil is less common. Plants feed on both water-soluble potassium salts and absorbed soil colloids-cations, and can also absorb potassium from minerals: micas, glauconite, biotite, etc. The main source of potassium is absorbed.

When applying potassium fertilizers for fruit trees, it must also be borne in mind that the need for potassium in fruit plants higher than in phosphorus. If we take the removal of phosphorus as a unit, then adult apple trees take out 3 times more potassium and nitrogen. An imbalance between the elements of nutrition should not be allowed, as this leads to functional diseases.

The use of fertilizers for feeding garden trees

When applying fertilizers for garden trees, it is necessary to take into account other properties of the soil: the nature of aeration, the mechanical composition, and the reaction of the environment.

Chernozem soils, which have a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, respond well to the use of acidic and physiologically acidic fertilizers (superphosphate, ammonium sulphate, etc.).

The effect of the use of fertilizers can be achieved while improving other factors of life. The lack of one of the factors cannot be compensated by the improvement of the other. For example, additional nutrition cannot replace the lack of moisture.

Therefore, when choosing how to feed fruit trees, it should be borne in mind that in a kind natural conditions with rich soils and arid climates, fertilizers may not be effective unless sufficiently favorable moisture conditions are provided. When fertilizing, it is necessary to simultaneously improve the water regime of the soil in the garden.

From all of the above, we can conclude: there can be no single system for fertilizing a garden. The following recommendations for fertilization should be considered as a guide only. They must be adapted to the specific conditions of a particular garden, depending on the properties of the soil, the age of the plantations, moisture conditions, etc. The best system fertilizer is one that justifies itself with a high yield, good growth and condition of the trees.

In addition to the main nutrients - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium - fruit plants need microelements for normal development. Often in the middle lane, their importance in fertilizing the orchard comes first in comparison with the main nutrients.

The lack of trace elements causes deep physiological disorders of the nutrition process and leads to the appearance of functional diseases and a sharp decrease in plant productivity.

Fertilizing fruit trees in the garden in spring and autumn with organic fertilizers

Practical recommendations for the use of fertilizers. Organic fertilizers are of particular importance in the fertilizer system of fruit crops. They enrich the soil with readily available nutrients, improve its physical properties (water and air modes), as well as supplying plants carbon dioxide. They contain in their composition all the nutrients necessary for fruit plants (macro- and microelements): nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, boron, molybdenum, manganese, iron, zinc, copper, etc.

The extremely important value of organic fertilizers for the garden is that they enliven the microbiological activity in the soil.

The introduction of manure, in particular, is the most important factor in the mobilization of the natural supply of nutrients. With the systematic introduction of manure, clay soils become more moisture and breathable, sandy soils acquire cohesion and better retain moisture. Biotic substances contained in manure (vitamins, auxins, etc.) activate life processes in plants, resulting in more favorable conditions for the efficient use of mineral fertilizers.

The best quality is horse and cow dung. Pig manure, in terms of the content of nutrients, approaches horse and cow manure, differing from them in a large amount of nitrogenous compounds and sodium chloride. However, it is significantly inferior to them in terms of physical properties, representing a semi-liquid mass, inconvenient for use. Therefore, it is best to apply pig manure after composting with straw, sawdust, leaves and other material. It is recommended to apply it for feeding fruit trees in the fall at the rate of 5-6 kg per 1 m2. Harmful chloride salts are washed out in this case deep into the soil. Given the exceptional value of manure for the garden, it is necessary to periodically apply it from 4 to 8 kg per 1 m2 once every 3 years.

What else can you feed fruit trees in spring and autumn from organic fertilizers? Bird manure is a complete fast-acting fertilizer in which the nutrients are in a form readily available to plants. In order to reduce nitrogen losses, which can reach 30% of its total content in 1.5-2 months, raw manure should be stored in a dry place mixed with peat chips, humus - 25-50% or powdered superphosphate - 6 -10% of the weight of the litter.

Litter in dry and crushed form or in the form of a solution is used for all crops and on all soils, mainly when feeding plants. When applied dry, it is important to grind it thoroughly and evenly disperse it over the entire area. With uneven application, plant burnout is possible. To feed fruit trees in liquid form, bird droppings are mixed with water in a ratio of 1:15 (15 parts of water for 1 part fertilizer). The solution should be used immediately after preparation. They bring it into the furrows made along the periphery of the crown, one bucket per 2-3 linear meters. m.

Sometimes bird droppings are infused with water before application so that it ferments. This technique is impractical, since when it is applied, the fertilizer loses more than half of the nitrogen.

As a rule, there is not enough manure for fertilizing fruit and berry crops. Its deficiency can be largely compensated by the introduction of various composts.

Prefabricated composts are also a valuable organic fertilizer. All waste containing at least some organic matter can be used as compostable material: spoiled feed, weeds (without seeds), haulm, sawdust, dry leaves, forest floor, pond silt, yard waste, kitchen waste, etc. More valuable composts are obtained by mixing with peat waste, good fertile land, as well as slurry, bird droppings, pig manure, superphosphate. Before fertilizing fruit trees in spring and autumn, the compost must mature. All materials for future feeding are stacked in a certain place on a compacted area, in the so-called compost heaps up to 2 m wide, 1.5-1.7 m high. For better absorption of moisture, a layer of peat 20-25 cm thick is placed at the base of the heap, or humus earth, or leaves. Waste, as it accumulates, is laid in layers in a compost heap and moistened, if necessary, with slurry, a solution of chicken manure or clean water. Add 1.5-2% of the total mass of superphosphate. You can add 3-4% ash.

The edges of the heap are made slightly higher so that the liquid does not drain, but is absorbed. After watering, a layer of peat or earth is poured on top of the heap. Care compost heap consists in shoveling it 2-3 times during the summer and moisturizing when it dries.

Waste that is difficult to decompose (sawdust, shavings, etc.) is placed in separate piles for a longer period of overheating. Compost for feeding garden trees is considered ready for use when it turns into a homogeneous crumbly mass. Composts can be laid in trenches 1.5 m wide, 0.7-1 m deep. This method is more convenient because the material dries out less. Prefabricated composts are close in quality to manure.

Feeding fruit trees with mineral fertilizers

To fully meet the needs of fruit plants in easily digestible nutrients, in addition to organic ones, mineral fertilizers. Unlike organic, they contain large quantity nutrients and are less complex in their chemical composition.

Mineral fertilizers for fruit trees are divided into simple and complex. Simple fertilizers contain only one battery, the composition of the complex includes two or three main elements.

Simple mineral fertilizers for planting fruit trees fertilizers are divided into nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, depending on what nutrient they contain.

Nitrogen fertilizers.

Ammonium nitrate is a fast-acting fertilizer, recommended for early spring application and top dressing at a concentration of 20 g per bucket of water.

Carbamide - is not absorbed by plants immediately, so it is advisable to use it as the main fertilizer in spring, and on heavy soils - in autumn. When irrigated, urea is used for top dressing. Valuable fertilizer for foliar dressings at a concentration of 0.3-0.4% (30-40 g per bucket of water).

Phosphorus fertilizers.

The best of them in local conditions is superphosphate - simple and double. This top dressing of fruit trees in spring and autumn has a long-term effect, therefore it is used as the main fertilizer. On carbonate soils, it is recommended to use it in a mixture with humus, peat, compost. The mixture is prepared 1-2 months before application.

potassium fertilizers.

Potassium sulfate is the best of them, as it does not contain harmful impurities. Potassium chloride contains an admixture of chlorine, which is harmful to fruit trees in large quantities. Under berries, especially strawberries, it can only be applied in advance.

Potassium salt. Should not be used for berry crops sensitive to chlorine. All potash fertilizers for fruit trees are used as the main application in the fall, only potassium sulfate can be applied in the spring.

How to feed fruit trees in spring and autumn: complex fertilizers

Complex fertilizers for fruit trees include potassium nitrate, ammophos, diammophos, nitroammophos, nitrophoska, nitroammophoska, etc. All dormice are highly soluble in water and are a valuable food for fruit crops. They are used as the main fertilizer and top dressing.

Wood ash is a valuable local fertilizer that contains all the nutrients except nitrogen. It is used as a potassium-phosphorus and microfertilizer on soils with an acidic or neutral reaction of 50-80 g/m2.

Fertilizers for fruit trees, applied in the spring, before planting the garden, improve plant growth, accelerate fruiting and increase yields in the early years. They can be brought in for digging, deep plowing or in planting pits.

In industrial gardens, the application can be continuous or strip (along the lines of future rows of trees). Under the plantation, 500-700 kg / ha of superphosphate of simple and potash fertilizers are applied. Semi-rotted manure 60-80 t/ha is applied under normal plowing. In the absence of manure, the doses of mineral fertilizers are doubled.

Rotted manure and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are introduced into the planting pits.

Superphosphate is best applied as an organo-mineral mixture. For one bucket of bulk manure take 300 g simple superphosphate or 150g double. Superphosphate is mixed with wet organic matter two weeks prior to entry.

Under the apple tree, 2-3 buckets of such a mixture are brought in, which is 15-25 kg of manure, 450-900 g of superphosphate. Potash fertilizers are applied at 200-300 g. Under stone fruits, the doses of fertilizer application are reduced by 2 times. It is not recommended to bring unrotted manure and mineral nitrogen fertilizers into the pit, as they impair the survival of young plants.

With good preplant soil dressing in the first 4-5 years or more, trees usually do not need to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Manure in the 1st year after planting is usually applied as mulch in the spring and incorporated when digging. In the future, organic fertilizers are recommended to be applied in the 4-5th year before the garden begins to bear fruit. The application of nitrogen fertilizers should be started from the 2-3rd year after planting, when the plants take root and get stronger. When introduced in the year of planting, they can cause a burn of young roots and worsen the survival of plants. In a young garden on fertile soil, the need for nitrogen in fruit plants usually occurs in the early spring, when the process of natural microbiological formation of nitrates is suppressed.

In this regard, it is necessary to apply nitrogen fertilizers containing nitrogen in the nitrate form (ammonium nitrate at a dose of 15-20 g/m2 - 150-200 kg/ha). The best time for this, after the majority of the snow has melted on the thawed-frozen soil, when it is frosty in the morning and fertilizers can be sieved. Easily soluble nitrogen fertilizers with moisture residues penetrate into the root zone by the beginning of their growth. If it was not possible to introduce them on the thawed-frozen soil, then they are introduced before the first spring loosening.

How to fertilize adult fruit trees in spring and autumn

In the first years, the effect of fertilizers on the growth of trees is usually weak, as they approach fruiting, their effect increases more and more. With the entry of the garden into fruiting, the system of fertilizing adult trees consists of autumn (basic) application, spring and top dressing. The main thing is the main thing when organic fertilizer and mineral phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied. These fertilizers are not washed out of the soil, so they are applied periodically once every 2-3 years for plowing or digging in the amount of: 30-45 g / m2 of superphosphate and 20-25 g / m2 of potassium sulfate or chloride per 1 year. Autumn application of chlorine-containing potash fertilizers contributes to the leaching of chlorine.

Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, which are inactive in the soil, should be applied as deep as possible, into the zone of occurrence of the main mass of roots, which contributes to the development of a powerful root system.

In home gardens, deep application is carried out in furrows, annular grooves, etc. The best way in this case is focal. The foci should be in the form of holes made along the periphery of the crown to a depth of 25-35 cm. One hole is placed for each half meter.

Effective joint application of mineral fertilizers with organic. The rate of application of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half. The introduction of superphosphate in a mixture with organic fertilizers contributes to better absorption of phosphorus.

In industrial gardens, the application of organic and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is carried out before plowing to a depth of 25-30 cm. Machines for deep fertilization are also used: a mounted vineyard plow PRVN-2.5 and a garden and vineyard feeder - PSV-2.

Fertilizing is of great importance for fruit-bearing fruit trees. In non-irrigated gardens, they are usually limited to the early spring application of ammonium nitrate, since in the absence of irrigation, top dressing is ineffective.

The application rate of this top dressing for fruit trees in the spring is 15-20 g per 1 m2 during the garden's fruiting period and 20-25 g per 1 m2 at full fruiting.

In irrigated orchards, there is a danger of mobile nitrogen being washed out into the deep layers, especially on light soils, while fruit-bearing orchards especially need nitrogen fertilizer. Therefore, in a fruit-bearing irrigated garden, in addition to the early spring application of nitrogen fertilizers, one or two top dressings are given during the growing season. The first top dressing is carried out with nitrogen fertilizer (ammonium nitrate) after the physiological shedding of the ovary at a dose of 10 g / m2.

Fertilizing fruit trees in spring and autumn: top dressing in a lean year

In a lean year, they are limited only to the main fertilizer and the spring application of nitrogen, since in this case the consumption of nutrients goes only to increase the vegetative mass and lay flower buds for the next year's crop. It is necessary to restrain the laying of the kidneys so as not to overload the tree with a crop in a year. This is facilitated by low doses of fertilizers. Mineral fertilizers when top dressing can be applied in liquid and dry form. In the first case, the fertilizer should be dissolved in water - 20-30 g per 10 liters, in the second - subsequent watering is required.

Good results are obtained by top dressing with local liquid organic fertilizers - slurry, bird droppings.

Top dressing is best timed to coincide with the rains. If the weather is dry, then it is necessary to water the furrow before feeding. Top dressing can be done simultaneously with watering.

When applying top dressing, it is necessary, however, to remember that this method of fertilizing is auxiliary and cannot replace the main fertilizer.

Before fertilizing fruit trees with nitrogen fertilizers, especially in young orchards, carefully study the information on the doses and timing of their application. An excess of nitrogen in the soil should not be allowed, as it delays vegetative growth, impairs the ripening of shoots and reduces the winter hardiness of plants. A constant excess of nitrogen, especially with a lack of other elements, leads to the fact that fruit plants may experience a state of so-called "fatting", that is, violent growth in the absence of fruiting. It is not possible to cause the fruiting of "fattening" trees immediately. First of all, it is necessary to weaken nitrogen nutrition and increase phosphorus-potassium, reduce watering. In some cases, it is necessary to resort to the use of special techniques: constriction of branches, banding, etc. Stone fruits, such as cherry and plum, are especially prone to prolonged growth and overgrowth with excess nitrogen nutrition. In this case, their winter hardiness is greatly reduced, and the trees often freeze slightly.

Competent and timely application of fertilizers is the key to the harmonious development of seedlings. However, many gardeners are ill-informed about when and what kind of dressing to apply. This article will help you understand all the intricacies of an important process aimed at increasing the productivity of plant growth.

Proper fertilization of the soil will create favorable conditions for the existence of crops and avoid problems in the future. But it is necessary to fertilize with knowledge of the matter. Uncontrolled introduction of organic matter or complex dressings can harm. So, how to feed the seedlings?

Young plants primarily need phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. Usually it is they that are lacking in the soil, which means that this should be compensated. Hydrogen, oxygen, carbon are no less important components of "excellent health". If the nutritional value of the soil leaves much to be desired, then the seedlings will lack these elements of the periodic table. But calcium, sulfur, magnesium, manganese at the beginning of the journey requires a minimum amount.

The need for certain fertilizers depends on the type of crops that you have planted. So, pears and apple trees in more need organic. Cherry and apricot - in minerals.

How to find out what exactly is missing?

If the seedlings are not rooting well, you should take a closer look at them. With a careful visual inspection, you will definitely find characteristics deficiency of an element.

Thin weak stems, small pale leaves indicate that the seedlings lack nitrogen. Leaves dry at the edges, turn yellow or brown? You need potassium. An acute shortage of magnesium manifests itself in the form of blanching of the leaves, which subsequently turn yellow and fall off.

Small and almost black foliage, mainly in the lower part of the plant, is a signal that phosphorus should be fed. Intensive wilting of leaves and shoots indicates a lack of iron. Most often, raspberries, grapes, apple trees, and plums need iron. But when there is not enough copper, the leaves at the tips brighten, become lethargic and soon die off.

Phosphorus and potassium: what you need to know

Experts advise to make phosphorus and potassium only in the 4th year after planting. It is better to do this in the fall, because. such complexes contain hardly digestible substances. An exception is made for fruit-bearing plants - they are fed in the spring.

Many make such fertilizers during fruit set. And they do it right - it favorably affects the quality and quantity of the crop.

So what fertilizers for seedlings containing potassium and phosphorus should be applied first?

• potassium sulfate used as the main fertilizer for fruit-bearing crops. The content of the main active ingredient is 50%. It is applied mainly in spring;
• potassium salt. Universal top dressing is suitable for any type of crops. The content of the main substance is 40%. It is brought in in the fall;
• superphosphate. Fertilizer in granules. Content phosphoric acid- up to 20%. It is brought in at the rate of 35-40 gr/m2;
• phosphate rock. Not only a valuable fertilizer, but also an effective neutralizer of increased soil acidity. Phosphorus content varies from 15 to 35%. Oriented to top dressing of any fruit trees.

There are special mixtures containing other substances in addition to potassium and phosphorus. For example, nitrophoska and diammofoska include potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen in different ratios.

Nitrogen: when and how to apply?

If the soil was fertilized with nitrogen during planting, then the first top dressing is practiced in the 3rd year after planting. Most of the nitrogen is applied in spring, the smaller part in autumn. Calculate as follows: 20 g / m2 (for poor soils) or 10 g / m2 (for fertile soils). If you plan to apply nitrogen, then you should use:

• urea (carbimide). Contains rapidly digestible nitrogen. Young plantings can be fertilized with urea in two ways: by instilling a dry mixture into tree trunks or spraying the trunk and leaves with a solution (for this, 0.5 kg of urea is dissolved in a bucket of water);
• ammonium nitrate. Feeding in granules is well absorbed by seedlings. Saltpeter can be used in dry (15 g / m2) and liquid (25 g / bucket of water) form;
• compost, bird droppings and manure. Designed to feed the soil of medium fertility. Contains a small amount of nitrogen. Optimal as an addition to other mineral complexes.

Weak seedlings should not be fertilized with nitrogen. This will significantly extend the growing season and reduce frost resistance.

Organics: rules to remember

The most useful fertilizer for seedlings is manure. It should be made in the 3rd year. Chicken manure is especially valuable. They fertilize the land in the spring at the rate of 5 kg / m2. For fertilizing fruit trees, manure is diluted with water (1 kg / bucket of water) and infused for 4-5 days. In autumn, the dosage of manure is reduced to 0.3 kg/m2. Manure from domestic animals is brought in only in a rotted state. Fertilize with manure once every 3 years. If the land is very poor, you can once every 2 years.

Another useful organic fertilizer is peat. Improves air permeability and soil structure. Furnace ash reduces the acidity of the earth. Make it at the rate of 100 g / m2. Mix with other organics or prepare a solution.

Compost deserves special attention. It is introduced in the first year after planting. Increases the nutritional value of the soil, enriches it with humus and improves aeration. Contains substances necessary for seedlings to grow.

High-quality compost can successfully replace any mineral mixtures. It is also easy to make compost. To do this, they dig a trench in the fall and fill it with leaves, grass, sawdust, tops, tea leaves and other waste. The compost pit is covered with earth and safely forgotten about it until spring. During the winter, everything that you threw into it will turn into a wonderful fertilizer.

The interval between top dressing is 2 seasons. The optimal time for fertilizing with compost is September-October. Important: compost is lightly dug into the top layer of the earth or simply laid out near tree trunks.

Don't know what else to feed the seedlings? Ready-made fertilizers - Aquarin, Kemira, Ecofoska, AVA, Uniflor-growth, Florist, Ferovit, Uniflor - have proven themselves to be excellent. The main thing is to carefully read the instructions (the composition of the drugs is different) and follow the dosage.

With the beginning of spring, when all plants wake up after a long winter sleep, fruit trees and shrubs need to be fed. They need nitrogen, which will help the start of vegetative processes, will contribute not only to a good ovary, but also to the yield of fruit bushes.

How and with what they need to be fertilized, what are the features of the process, what recharges will favorably affect the crop - we will consider in detail.

What do you need to know about shrubs?

If you have private house or a summer cottage, then you can’t do without fruit bushes. They will not only decorate the landscape on the site, but also give healthy, vitamin-rich berries. Moreover, for their cultivation of special skills and abilities is not required. The main feature is that they take up little space, are unpretentious, and always in fashion. Among them there are such types:

• raspberries,
• currant,
• blackberry,
• gooseberry,
• edible honeysuckle,
• barberry,
• chokeberry (chokeberry),
• viburnum,
• irga,
• dogwood,
• sea ​​buckthorn,
• hazelnut,
• hazelnut (hazel),
• actinidia,
• fig,
• cranberry,
• lemongrass,
• rose hip.

Since berries help with many diseases, they are used not only raw, but also dried, frozen, in the form of jam.

Autumn - optimal time for planting, as it is easier to prepare the soil, as well as a large selection of material for planting. But if in winter, due to climatic conditions, the soil freezes deeply, then it is better to plant in the spring.

In addition, caring for berry bushes includes not only watering, as inexperienced gardeners believe. Since the plants are perennial, their root system absorbs nutrients throughout the year. Fertilizers need to be applied not only in autumn, but also in spring. They should be both soil and foliar.

We choose top dressing in the spring!

Fertilizer for fruit trees and shrubs is best taken organic. Preference is given to:

• compost
• peat,
• humus
• manure.

They enrich the soil with useful substances, promote plant growth. Mineral fertilizers, which contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, are also used to feed berry bushes.

For fruit bushes, there is a specific feeding schedule:

1. In the first decade of May, when they are actively blooming.
2. May - the first decade of June - a period of increased growth of shoots.
3. The beginning of July, when the berries are tied.
4. The last top dressing after the autumn harvest.

We fertilize currant bushes

Currants can be planted, focusing on every taste: black, red, white, golden. But if caring for it is reduced only to infrequent watering, then every year there will be less and less berries, and in five years they will disappear completely. If you provide currants proper care, then the bush will be able to bear fruit in one place for more than ten years.

Since the currant is ready for fruiting a year after planting, in early spring it is necessary to feed the plants with organic fertilizers.

To begin with, they are applied with nitrogen in the root method. To do this, you should carefully dig up, and then pour the earth around abundantly so that top dressing does not burn the young roots.

Humus is placed around the berry bushes and the earth is dug deep enough in a circle of at least 80 centimeters. In summer, in order to increase productivity, each bush is fed separately with 3–6 kg of compost, 10–15 g of potassium sulfate, 30 g of superphosphate.
At the beginning of October under fruit bushes chicken manure or humus is introduced to nourish the plants during the winter with useful microelements.

We feed raspberries

In order to stock up on healing berries until the next season, one should not forget about the benefits of mineral and organic fertilizers for raspberry bushes.

How to improve productivity?

We are constantly getting letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year, a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS about this. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we want to advise plant growth biostimulantswhich will help increase the yield by up to 50-70%.

Read...

Experienced gardeners from organic matter, manure is chosen for feeding. The rotted ones are brought in in spring or autumn - about 6 kilograms per square meter. Bird droppings in liquid form or compost from peat, dry leaves, manure will not only saturate the plant the right substances phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium, but will also disinfect the bushes from pests. For raspberry fruit bushes, 9–10 kg per m2 will be needed as a top dressing.

Potassium salt and superphosphate are used for spring feeding. Opponents of mineral fertilizers can use wood ash instead of potash supplements. It does not contain chlorine, but there are useful substances that help growth and fruiting. Ash can be applied both dissolved in water and dry.

"Chemical" fertilizers are practiced for feeding both individually and in a complex composition. A mixture of phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium and manure contributes not only to the growth of new shoots, but also to lush flowering, as well as good yields.

The appearance of raspberry bushes will tell you what nutrients are missing:

• brown leaves - lack of potassium,
• thin, very weak shoots - phosphorus is needed,
• the leaves are yellow, small - feed with nitrogen,
• dark huge sheets - a lot of nitrogen, there will be few berries.

The main thing is to correct the situation in a timely manner.

Proper feeding for the "northern grapes"

That is what gooseberries are called. One berry of this shrub contains almost 50 kilocalories. Its composition is striking in the amount of useful vitamins and trace elements: iodine, potassium, phosphorus, copper, manganese, iron, organic acids, vitamins A, C, D, E. It is considered a dietary berry that not only helps with metabolic processes, but also works against anemia removing heavy metals and salts from the body.

Gooseberry bushes should not be planted in places with high soil moisture, because in this case they will be attacked by fungal diseases. This will lead to low yields, rapid death of the plant.

The first two years, young shrubs do not fertilize. They have enough organic feeding made before landing. In the third year in autumn, the soil is fed with manure or humus by digging. In early spring before bud break, urea and ammonium nitrate are added (15–20 g per m2). Mineral fertilizers are scattered near the bushes, they are covered with a hoe to a depth of about 8–10 cm.

How to properly feed gooseberries?

We program the harvest of sea buckthorn

This golden berry is indispensable not only for burns. Its beneficial properties have long been appreciated in ancient China. In the wrong hands, it can quickly die. After all, the roots of these fruit shrubs are very close to the surface of the earth. Therefore, you need to carefully dig the soil near the bushes. The best option- use a chopper for shallow loosening.

Sea buckthorn should be fertilized no more than once every two years with compost, humus (5–9 kg per m2). It is better to do this in the autumn period after the completion of the collection of berries. From mineral fertilizers, potassium salt (25 g), superphosphate (60 g) is preferred.

Experienced gardeners advise twice a year to feed the plant with a mixture of sand and humus (2: 3), plus a couple of glasses of crushed egg shells.

If sea buckthorn grows on sandy soil, then a little nitrogen fertilization will not hurt it. Please note that no more than 20 grams of ammonium nitrate and 15 grams of urea can be added per square meter per year.

Please note that all types of fertilizers for the growth and fruiting of sea buckthorn must be applied before fruit formation begins.

Features of feeding dogwood

This unpretentious plant almost always gives birth abundantly. Breaks records for the content of vitamin C, and the bones have antiseptic properties.

It can be formed not only as a bush, but also as a fruit tree. Dogwood comes from the south, so he loves the sun, and very wet soil is contraindicated for him. There is evidence that dogwood fruit bushes can grow and bear fruit for almost three hundred years.

To fertilize the soil during the period of spring growth, mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen and phosphorus are used. In autumn, the bushes are fed with potassium or wood ash. In order for the plant to bear fruit well, compost, humus, and lime are added to the soil. But you can’t feed dogwood with ammonium sulfate.

Feeding for barberry

This evergreen shrub is a worthy decoration for a garden plot. Its value is not only in beauty, but also in useful properties. It is believed that the use of barberry can prolong youth. And all because it removes toxins, cleanses the blood, eliminates harmful microbes from the body.

The natural habitat of plants is associated with dry and gentle slopes. clay soil before planting, fertilize with a mixture of sand and peat, humus or compost in equal parts. If the soil is acidic, then the soil in the holes should be neutralized with slaked lime (350-400 grams per bush) or 250 grams of wood ash.

Feed the barberry for the next spring after planting. The growth of young shoots is stimulated with mineral fertilizers with nitrogen (urea) at the rate of 25 grams per average bucket of water. A similar feeding is carried out every four years.

Fertilizers of organic origin (manure, humus) feed shrubs before flowering and after. Prepare it like this:

1. a kilogram of humus is soaked in three liters of water,
2. filter after three days,
3. dilute the infusion (1 liter) with water in a ratio of 1: 3 /

This dose is enough for one fruit bush.

Potassium and superphosphate are added in the fall so that the barberry is prepared for winter period. Do not forget to water the bushes after you have applied fertilizer. Then the soil must be mulched with sawdust or peat.

How easy is it to grow a barberry?

Helping hazelnuts bear fruit

This useful and tasty shrub is the closest relative of the hazel nut (hazel). If you decide to grow it yourself, you should be patient.

In most cases, hazelnuts will have to be grown from nuts. The soil should be quite loose, for this it is necessary to fertilize the soil with humus.

The plant is transplanted into the hole when it reaches 15-18 centimeters. Before planting, ammonium nitrate is fertilized, which promotes growth. The first recharge is made at the end of April, the second - in the first decade of June. Prepare four kilograms of manure, 45 grams of superphosphate, 45 grams of ammonium nitrate, 25 grams of potassium sulfate, the mixture is divided in half.

Hazelnuts are fed after heavy watering or rain. Fertilizers need to be scattered evenly on the soil and dig up the soil. In spring and summer, they do it shallowly, in autumn they dig twice as deep.

Why use foliar fertilizers?

In summer, foliar fertilizers are used to feed fruit plants. In this way, shrubs are fed not through root system and through the leaves. The fact is that in this way nutrients enter the plant faster than through the roots.

Not only organic, but also mineral fertilizers are used. The only caveat is that very weak solutions must be used so that the salts do not damage the leaves. Therefore, the concentration of superphosphate should be no more than 4%, and urea and potassium chloride or sulfate - about 1%.

Plants are sprayed in the evening or early morning. During the day, the solution will evaporate quickly, so a similar process is possible only in cloudy weather.

Young leaves are treated with a weaker solution. For example, after picking currant berries, bushes can be sprayed with a solution of 4 grams of potassium permanganate, 2 grams boric acid, 8 grams of copper sulfate. They are bred in ten liters of water. It is advisable to feed raspberries in this way after flowering and picking berries. It can be a solution of manganese or zinc, copper sulfate or ammonium.

Advantages of foliar fertilizers:

• contribute to an increase in flowering branches and the weight of berries,
• the number of carrion and rotting fruits is reduced,
• there are more young shoots,
• vegetative processes are faster.

Important points when feeding

If you decide to approach the process of feeding berry bushes responsibly, pay attention to the following details:

1. with abundant watering, the portion of nutrients should be increased,
2. before pruning bushes to increase the number of young shoots, the dose of feeding should be higher,
3. liquid types fertilizers are applied around the plant at a distance of approximately half a meter from the diameter of the crown,
4. when the soil is often fed with ash, then mineral dressings do not need to be applied,
5. if at the same time top dressing is carried out with organic matter and minerals, then the rate should be halved.

Fruit bushes, like any plants, need additional nutrition. Timely applied fertilizers, correctly selected dosage and type of top dressing will favorably affect not only the growth of bushes, but also the yield of perennial plants!

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The growth of trees and shrubs, their fertility depends primarily on their nutrition. It is important that they have a constant supply of such elements: calcium, carbon, potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus, iodine, magnesium, sodium and a number of other minerals. Trees are periodically fertilized for this purpose.

Proper fertilization requires knowledge of soil characteristics: mechanical composition, environmental reaction, degree of fertility, age of plantations, etc.

1 Types of fertilizers

Substances that increase the fertility of the earth are classified in various ways. The most common classification is as follows:

• by origin: organic and mineral fertilizers;
• according to the method of application: top dressing, pre-sowing, surface, intrasoil;
• according to the method of feeding: foliar, root top dressing.

Let's consider some of them. Organic include: bird droppings, manure, sawdust, compost, peat. They improve soil structure, water and air regimes. Thanks to them, the earth is enriched with nutrients, humus. This type of fertilizer is more popular because it is natural and readily available.

Manure containing copper, copper boron, cobalt, molybdenum, manganese is considered a common organic substance. The advantage of bird droppings is a higher nutrient content and economy.

Minerals are required for the soil to replenish it with nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus. Any plant at each stage of life requires the necessary amount of these elements. For the winter, trees need to be fed with potassium, which will prepare the plant for the upcoming frosts. In spring and autumn, during the period of active growth, nitrogen will be introduced into the soil, and phosphorus at the germination stage.

1.1 Fertilizing fruit trees

The soil where fruit trees grow, especially those in the fruiting phase, “gets poorer” over time. Therefore, all gardening specialists replenish its stocks. Fertilizing fruit is carried out in two ways: mineral / organic. Often, amateur gardeners have a question: “What is the best way to fertilize fruit trees?” It is most expedient to feed plantings with organic matter, which contains the entire list of necessary substances, improves the condition land plot, its friability, makes the soil available for air penetration.

Minerals will enrich the plant with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium. The main supplier of nitrogen is: ammonium nitrate carbamide or urea; phosphorus - superphosphate, potassium - potassium salt. Fertilizers are applied in two doses, in autumn and spring. In the spring, fruit trees require more nitrogen compounds, which cause their enhanced growth. An approximate dose is 20-30 gr. per 1 sq. m of soil, with its significant depletion, the dose increases. And in the fall, under fruit trees, when they are preparing for winter, you need phosphate elements, substances containing potassium.

It is in the autumn that more fertilizers are applied. Usually, organic compounds are scattered over an arbitrary layered circle, and then dug onto the floor of a spade bayonet (20-30 cm deep). It is better to give preference to well-rotted manure. The amount of fertilizer depends on the size of the tree. Most often, a bucket is enough, the standard dosage is per 1 sq. m layer circle 1-1.5 buckets of manure or compost. Along the perimeter of the crown projection, it is necessary to make a groove, a depth of 30 cm. A half dose of the autumn norm of nutrients is scattered around it in a circle.

When choosing superphosphate, half a glass is enough. After doing these steps, mix the fertilizer with the soil. Put the rest on top, and again the top layer is mixed with the ground. Applying nutrients in this sequential manner will allow them to be evenly distributed without burning the roots of the plant.

In addition to the basic procedures for the nutrition of fruit trees, experts identify efficient use top dressing. These are fast acting ingredients. These measures are necessary if for some reason you have not fertilized your orchard in the fall. You need to prepare the slurry. Manure is placed in a large barrel for a third, filled with water. For several days, while the solution is infused, it should be thoroughly mixed. After the concentrated liquid, dilute with water five times, if you use chicken manure - 10 times. Pour the hole around the tree with the solution.

In addition to top dressing with organic matter, you can use minerals: ammonium nitrate, nitrogen fertilizers. 1 st. the spoon is diluted into a bucket of water and, in the same way, is poured into the near-trunk circle. At the end, it is desirable to water the plant so that all substances are evenly distributed throughout the root system.

Top dressing through the foliage, foliar are also effective. It is best to take nitrogen fertilizer urea. In the spring, spray it with a solution over the leaves of trees (about 30 grams per bucket of water). In August, superphosphate can be used for better budding for next year. Somewhere around 100-150 gr. a substance containing phosphate is dissolved on a bucket of water, and then sprayed on the external organs of the plant. Spraying is done in cloudy weather or in the evening, when the sun is no longer scorching.

1.2 How and with what to fertilize fruit trees (video)

1.3 Fertilizing coniferous trees

Various coniferous trees are gaining the most popularity for decorating front facades. Only those that give a noticeable increase, healthy plants that receive constant nourishment, look more beautiful. In order to properly organize the procedures for feeding, you need to know what fertilizers for coniferous trees should be used. So, for example, ordinary garden mixtures or complex type fertilizers are not suitable for evergreens. Dung is even worse. They are aimed at intensive growth, which in conifers ends with yellowing and even death of some specimens.

In this case, it is better to produce nutrients not independently, but to purchase them in specialized stores. When buying this product, you should pay attention to its composition. When choosing a fertilizer for conifers, the presence of magnesium is a prerequisite. He - component chlorophyll molecule, takes an active part in photosynthesis. According to experts, mineral substances should be used for baiting evergreens, and rotted compost, biohumus, which is the result of processing worms, should be used as organic matter.

Coniferous trees and shrubs are fed twice a season. This is done for the first time during the period of growth activation, i.e. in May. The second time is at the end of summer. If you fertilize later than the deadline, the growth that appears will not have time to ripen by the onset of cold weather. In order for the roots to quickly assimilate the introduced elements, it is advisable to use liquid types of top dressing. To ensure long-term action, granules are used. The effect of them is observed in a quarter or half a year.

Ready liquid fertilizers should be diluted to the required concentration, as indicated in the instructions. The liquid is poured into the holes, previously made around the perimeter of the crown. Then they are sprinkled with earth. The granules are sprinkled evenly over the surface of the near-stem circle, with the help of a chopper they are mixed with the soil when digging. Compost and humus are added in a similar way.

1.4 Feeding the money tree

Money tree or fat woman - the plant is not whimsical. Its feeding is not difficult. Fertilization procedures are carried out only after watering. It is recommended to feed in the spring-summer period (April-August). Ideally, once a month. For the money tree, additives are used for:

• succulents;
• cactus,
• humisol GUMI.

The rest of the time they are fed less often, the concentration of the fertilizer is diluted 1.5-2 times.

2 How to fertilize trees in autumn?

Fertilizing plants in the fall is a priority issue, since this period for feeding is the most crucial time. Fertilization with useful compounds is carried out until the end of September. Those who are interested in what fertilizers to apply in the fall should choose minerals. An integrated method will show the best effect. Only root feeding is used.

If the soil is sandy or sandy, more fertilizer will be needed. Under trees, 8-year-olds make 30 kg of humus, under crops of 9 years of age and older - 50 kg. The fertilizer is placed into the soil at a depth of 20 cm. Complex mineral fertilizers are very convenient to use. Recommended for the orchard:

• fruit garden;
• Universal;
• Kemira.

When using them, follow the instructions on the packaging exactly.