The wall is a plasterboard partition. Installation and assembly of drywall partitions - economical, simple

The basis of a plasterboard partition is a frame made of metal profiles or wooden beams. In apartments, the installation of a frame from profiles is preferable to wood. Wooden frames are more suitable for private houses and summer cottages. We will analyze how to install a frame from profiles for a plasterboard partition in this article.

Introduction

The next step after is the installation of the frame from the profiles. To begin with, let's recall the drawing of the partition to be installed.

According to the plan, it is necessary to fence off a part of the dead-end corridor to organize a dressing room. The partition is installed with a door, from wall to wall. In the figure below, the future partition is marked in red.

The partition itself is planned as C112. In other words, a partition on a metal frame with two layers of drywall on both sides.

We will divide the work of installing a plasterboard partition into 4 stages

• Partition markings;
• Installation of a frame from profiles;
• Laying of electrical wiring. Soundproofing installation;
• Sheathing of the frame with drywall sheets;
• Painting works;
• Door installation.

Preparing the surface for installing the partition

The walls and floor in the place where the partition will be installed must be freed from old coatings. In principle, the partition can also be installed on the old floor covering. The main thing is that the base of the floor is strong, stable and motionless.

Also, the top of the plasterboard partition does not have to rest against the ceiling. You can add several additional jumpers and rack-mount profiles (PS) to the partition frame and make a partition of any height, not up to the ceiling.

If you have planned plasterboard ceilings in the place where you are installing the partition, then first you need to make a suspended ceiling of plasterboard, and attach the partition to it. See the picture below.

Important! But this installation sequence is only applicable for plasterboard ceilings and partitions. installed after a plasterboard partition. The rack ceiling is attached directly to the partition. At the level of the rack ceiling, additional jumpers from the rack-mount profile (PS) are installed in the partition frame.

In our example, a plasterboard partition is installed from floor to ceiling. The further story is from this installation of the partition.

Partition markings

Any construction work begins with marking. To install the partition, the border of the planned partition must be applied to the wall and floor. The border line must be closed. To apply it, you need to use the building level so that the guide marks of the future partition are strictly vertical.

From the finishing boundary of the partition, you need to retreat to the thickness of two layers and draw a second closed mark. At the mark drawn on the floor, it is necessary to mark the target of the future opening under the door. The markup is ready, we proceed to fastening the guide profiles (PN).

Installation of a frame from profile guides (PN) for a plasterboard partition

The installation of a frame from profiles begins with the installation of guides. The guide profiles are fixed to the ceiling and floor. To begin with, with metal scissors from the purchased 3 meter profiles, you need to cut the workpieces of the required length. In our example, these are 3 blanks (one for the ceiling and two for the floor, to the right and left of the doorway), see the picture above.

The edge of the lower rail on the side of the doorway can be bent at 90 ° by making cutouts on the profile walls at 45 ° (see photo).

To fix the guides, drill the guides, together with the base, with a Ø 8 mm drill, after 60-70 cm and fix them with dowel-nails.

Important! On the side of the profile, which will be in contact with the bearing surfaces, you need to glue the sealing. This is necessary for better sound insulation of the partition, as well as the sealing of the frame will save the partition from cracks in the seam area in the future.

Installation of rack profiles (PS) for plasterboard partitions

Rack profiles (PS) are cut to the desired length (room height) and installed in the frame. Two PS profiles (otherwise they are called racks) are installed on the walls and attached to the wall with double-nails.

Important! Dichtungsband sealing tape must be glued to the frame posts that are in contact with the walls.

Two posts are fixed along the border of the doorway. These posts are inserted at the bottom and top into the rail profiles. The racks must be set strictly vertically and attached to the guide profiles with metal-to-metal screws 9 mm long or with a cutter. (A cutter is a special tool for fastening metal profiles to each other).

According to the rules, the racks of the drywall frame are attached after 60 cm. The fastening step (60 cm) is measured from the middle of the racks. This is done so that the edges of the plasterboard sheets, the size of which is 1200 × 2500 mm, fall into the middle of the rack during fastening and are firmly attached to the frame.

In the vertical racks, into which the door will be installed, you need to insert a wooden block into the spacer and fix it with self-tapping screws to the rack. The wooden insert will further simplify the installation of the door and strengthen the fastening of the door frame.

In our example, one more post should be fixed in the middle of a wide span (see fig).

The uprights have been installed, let's proceed to the installation of the transverse jumpers.

Installation of transverse lintels for a plasterboard partition

It is better to make the transverse lintels of the frame for a plasterboard partition from rack-mount profiles (PS). They have great rigidity. They are attached as shown in Fig. In our example, there will be 7 crossbars.

The cross members are attached to the uprights as follows.

One side of the cross-section is inserted into the rack. But not entirely simple! The upright profile has rounded edges to increase rigidity. Therefore, in the place where the cross member is inserted into the rack, the rounded edges of the rack must be straightened with pliers.

The second side of the cross-section must be prepared in advance. In the photo you can see which structure you need to cut with metal scissors. It is not difficult. First, cuts are made along the profile. The resulting "LANGUAGE" is bent and it is he who is screwed to the flat side of the vertical rack. Then the sides are cut off.

All fasteners are made with 9 mm metal-to-metal self-tapping screws or a cutter.

There is another way of attaching cross-sections. Cut the crossbars as shown and insert into the posts.

After completing all the above work, it can be considered that the installation of a frame from profiles for a plasterboard partition is completed. Do not forget to check the quality after completing the work. The frame should not wobble or even move a little. The vertical pillars of the doorway must be strictly vertical.

Let's summarize the installation of a frame from profiles

The frame for the plasterboard partition is ready. It is rigidly attached to the floor and walls. The doorway has the same width over its entire height. The width of the opening is equal to the width of the door with the frame plus 3-4 cm for foaming.

It remains to lay the electrical wiring inside the partition in the corrugation, sew one side of the partition with drywall sheets, lay the sound insulator inside the partition, sew the second side with plasterboard. Then paint and install the door. After that, the partition can be considered installed.

But more about this in the next article.

Especially for the site:

In the article, we will study the device of plasterboard partitions and study the process of their construction step by step. In addition, we are interested in the pros and cons of plasterboard structures inside an apartment or a private house.

Lightweight partitions with changes in layout are almost always made of plasterboard. How justified is the use of this material - we will try to find out.

Drywall or alternatives

Let's first give an assessment of drywall as a material for internal partitions in a living room. Perhaps it is really worth looking for an alternative?

Dignity

• High construction speed. Due to the solid dimensions of the drywall sheet, partitions are erected in just a couple of days.
• Minimization of wet finishing processes. You will not have to work with cement mortar at all; gypsum plaster does not leave so much dirt in the house.

However: the dust, which is inevitable when cutting drywall, gets clogged in all corners of the apartment. Doors and windows are best kept closed during work. In addition, all consumer electronics (primarily computers and laptops with their active cooling systems) are completely de-energized and covered with any cloth or, better yet, polyethylene.

• Flame retardant material. Gypsum, which makes up most of its volume, does not burn and has poor thermal conductivity.
• Soundproofing it will be good even without laying insulation in the partitions.
• The cavities inside the walls accommodate electrical wiring and water distribution. Of course, the frame should be initially mounted with a view to laying communications.
• Light weight means minimizing floor loading.

In the case of a private house with wooden floors, the weight of the partition is an important factor.

• Last but not least, the material does not emit any volatile harmful substances into the atmosphere.

Flaws

There are two serious drawbacks to drywall:

1. Low mechanical strength. It is not difficult to break a single sheet of drywall, simply leaning on it with all your weight or hitting a fairly massive object.
2. Low resistance to water. Even moisture-resistant drywall will become unusable with prolonged contact with it.

In addition, a drywall wall requires a fine finish - albeit not too laborious.

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Alternatives

And what, in fact, can be used instead of drywall?

• Laminated chipboard used to decorate the bottom of the walls. It provides, along with a decent appearance, much greater strength: it is very difficult to accidentally damage such a wall.
• Plywood- even more reliable material. On a wall made of thick enough plywood, you can safely hang cabinets, including quite massive ones; it is also quickly mounted on the frame and is quite easy to process. However, its price with a thickness comparable to that of drywall is about twice as much.
• Finally, it is not difficult to use for internal partitions. MDF wall panels... An obvious disadvantage is that the mechanical strength is as low as that of drywall. Plus, they cost about the same as a 10mm plywood of the same size.

However, we will get a ready-made wall that does not need painting and finishing.

Installation diagram

How is a plasterboard partition arranged?

The most popular plasterboard partition device involves the vertical installation of solid sheets. The frame is made upright, from CW upright profiles, which are fixed to the UW guide profiles running along the floor and ceiling.

Horizontal elements of the frame, in addition to guides, are used to frame openings and arches. The guides are attached to the ceilings with dowel-nails or anchors. As a damper designed to damp shock vibrations, a sound-absorbing tape made of polyurethane foam or foam rubber is used.

The rules for installing drywall are common for all structures made of it:

• The adjacent edges of adjacent sheets must be attached to one profile.
• Between the sheets there are gaps of 3-5 millimeters for putty.
• Seams are reinforced with fiberglass mesh during the plastering process and / or bandaged with paper tape.
• The attachment points of the frame to the ceiling should be located at a distance of no more than a meter. Optimum - 60 cm. In addition, each individual structural element must be fastened with at least three dowels or anchors.
• If it is necessary to join the profiles to a greater length, they are fastened with at least three self-tapping screws.
• The distance between the standing profiles should be no more than 60 centimeters.

Advice: it is better to put risers with a gap of exactly 40 centimeters along the axes. The rigidity of the structure will be greater. In addition, the width of the sheet will be a multiple of the distance between the risers, and the edges of adjacent sheets will fall on one profile without additional adjustment.

Reinforced and wide partitions

If it is necessary in a partition with greater mechanical strength, fire resistance or soundproofing qualities, when communications are located inside it, occupying a large space, a complicated device of a plasterboard partition is possible.

1. One row of risers can be sheathed with plasterboard in two layers. This scheme, among other things, avoids the appearance of cracks at the joints of the sheets. An overlap is required between the layers: the joints are attached to different profiles.
2. If inside the partition it is necessary to place the risers of water supply or kitchen (diameter 40-50 millimeters) sewage, it can be built carcass from two rows of standing profiles, sewn together end-to-end with self-tapping screws.
3. Finally, if a 90 or 110 mm sewer riser is located inside the partition, two rows of vertical profiles are spaced apart... They can be linked together not only with segments of the same profile, but also with strips of drywall.

Work order

What is the technology for arranging plasterboard partitions with your own hands?

Frame

1. The axis of the partition is marked on the floor. It's easier to do this with a chop cord. The markup is then transferred to adjacent walls and ceiling. The relative position of the markings is checked by level and plumb line.
2. UW profiles with laid or glued soundproofing tape are fixed to the ceiling and floor. As already mentioned, the optimal fastening step is 60 centimeters.
3. CW standing profiles are marked and cut in place. For secure attachment, they must protrude into the UW ceiling profile by at least two centimeters. Fastening - with self-tapping screws for metal ("fleas") on both sides of each profile. The wall riser is attached to the wall in increments of no more than a meter with the same dowels or anchors; a soundproof tape is also laid under it.
4. The opening is ALWAYS edged with a profile along the perimeter. If you plan to install a door, its box is exposed and attached to the profile immediately after the installation of the frame, before sheathing with plasterboard.

Fastening the standing profile to the rail - strictly on both sides.

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Sheathing

Sheets, if necessary, trimming are marked on the floor or on a wide table. The use of a square to control right angles is mandatory.

Please note: one of the advantages of drywall is in rather large tolerances when trimming. Even a three-centimeter gap is easy to putty using a reinforcing mesh. Therefore, do not be afraid to make a mistake with the size - nothing fatal will happen.

How to cut drywall?

1. Along the cut line, the sheet is cut with a sharp knife and broken. Then the cardboard is cut from the second side.
2. The jigsaw produces more dust and often a less straight cut line. However, if it is scary to break the sheet, it is quite possible to saw it off.
3. Finally, you can also cut with a regular hand saw. Both the gypsum core and the cardboard are VERY easy to cut.

Curved cutting lines are made with a narrow hand saw or jigsaw. The holes for the sockets are chosen, as a rule, the same in a fairly large number. For them, it is better to purchase a crown of the appropriate diameter.

After trimming, the edges are processed with a flat or rounded (depending on the shape of the cutting line) rasp. The edge is made straight and even; the edges of the sheets intended for joining are chamfered.

On long straight sections, it is more convenient to remove the chamfer with a hand or electric plane.

How to bend a drywall sheet when making an arch or other curved surface?

1. Roll with a needle roller the side of the sheet that will be compressed during bending and wet it several times until the gypsum is completely saturated with water. Then dry on a template or directly at the final installation site.
2. Make frequent transverse cuts on the outside of the sheet and fasten it to the profile. The cuts are leveled when the surface is putty.

Sheets are screwed to EACH profile in 25 centimeters increments. On curved surfaces, the pitch is reduced to 15 cm; with two-layer sheathing, it is permissible to fasten the first layer with a step of 75 cm. The length of the self-tapping screws is selected so that they go into the profile by at least a centimeter.

After sheathing the partition, on one side, if necessary, a heater is laid - foam plastic or basalt wool.

After the end of the fastening, all the caps must be recessed into the drywall by about a millimeter: they must be hidden with putty.

Sealing of seams

There are two main ways to putty the seams so that after a couple of years no cracks appear in their place.

1. The seam is glued with a serpyanka - a reinforcing tape made of fiberglass, then putty with gypsum putty directly through it.
2. The seam is putty without reinforcement; after drying, the putty is sanded with a grater mesh and bandaged with paper tape. The tape is glued to PVA glue or its aqueous solution and pulled with a spatula; excess glue is removed with a sponge.

With two-layer cladding, it is theoretically possible to do without reinforcement or banding. In practice ... Costs are low; at the same time, you reliably protect the wall from cracking in case of any deformation. Why not?

At the same stage, self-tapping screws are putty. There are no special tricks here: putty twice (since gypsum shrinks slightly during drying), then sanding.

This sheet material is currently the most popular for cladding internal partitions, and the installation of a plasterboard wall is the simplest and most productive in construction. Therefore, it makes sense to consider what is wall cladding with this material in more detail.

The first step before the start of construction work is the layout of the premises. If it is decided to install drywall for surface finishing, some points should be taken into account.

Standard sheet sizes of this material are 1200 - 1300 x 2500 - 4800 mm with a thickness of 6.5 to 24 mm. At the same time, almost every size is designed to fulfill its specific task.

To reduce the labor intensity of the work, reduce the consumption of fasteners and the most efficient cutting of the material, these data should be taken into account when planning the premises. For example, the height of the ceilings is considered comfortable at 2.5 meters, then it corresponds to the size of the sheet. Often this parameter is taken as 2.53, we will indicate the reasons below. Similarly, the width of the rooms is desirable as a multiple of an integer number of sheets. Or a multiple of half the size, then the cutting of the material will be optimal.

When determining the dimensions of the premises, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the internal walls and partitions, since this factor will also affect the cutting of the material. This means that we are already moving on to deeper detailing - to determining the dimensions of the lathing and the selection of materials for its manufacture. And behind each such detail lies the amount of labor intensity and financial costs.

Types of drywall

Based on the properties laid down by the developers in such building materials, the gypsum board is divided into the following types:

• ordinary drywall. Consists of a layer of gypsum dough and a cardboard cover on both sides, it is used for finishing rooms with humidity within normal limits. It is widely used due to ease of use, good workability, light weight and economy;
• GKL with fire-resistant characteristics. Convenient to use for utility rooms such as summer kitchens and other non-residential premises. It can be used near heating devices, stoves and fireplaces;
• moisture-resistant drywall, allowing its use in rooms with high humidity - baths, bathrooms, toilets and others. Thanks to the use of special additives, it is protected from the effects of fungus and mold. Ideal for decorating country houses where humidity is usually higher than in city apartments;
• fire - moisture resistant material, which is almost universal.

By purpose, drywalls are divided into the following categories:

• arched - with a thickness of up to 6.5 mm, allowing large deformations in several planes at the same time, such properties are also given to it by reinforcing additives of a fibrous structure;
• ceiling - thickness up to 9.5 mm, lightweight construction;
• wall - for wall decoration and installation of partitions, thickness 12.5 mm.

With this thickness, which is the most popular, the weight of a standard sheet of 1.2 x 2.5 meters is 30 kg.

Tool for working with gypsum board

The material does not have high mechanical properties and can be easily processed with a simple tool. In this case, you can use the following tool:

• saw - hacksaw for wood. Purpose - sawing drywall sheets into parts during installation;
• circular saw - for making long straight cuts when cutting;
• jigsaw - cutting out parts of complex shapes according to markings;
• construction knife - trimming the edges of parts after sawing;
• tape measure - measurements during marking and cutting;
• construction plumb - control of the position of the sheet in space during installation;
• carpentry level - the same;
• electric drill - drilling holes for fasteners;
• screwdriver - installation of fasteners when fixing plasterboard parts, assembling a frame from metal profiles;
• a set of spatulas, including narrow, medium, wide, angled metal and rubber;
• painting brush - for applying a primer;
• foam roller - for the same purpose;
• drill attachment for mixing dry mixtures;
• emery cloth No. 4 or No. 5;
• container for stirring mixtures.

This is the main set of tools for leveling, priming, and decorative finishing of plasterboard walls.

In addition, you will need materials:

• primer - to strengthen the surface of the walls;
• acrylic putty - repair and preparation of the surface of gypsum plasterboards for the application of the main leveling layer;
• fiberglass tape - serpyanka;
• fasteners for drywall - self-tapping screws of a special shape;
• insulation for laying under drywall sheets during the construction of partitions for the purpose of insulation and sound insulation;
• GKL of various sizes, including a thickness of 6.5 mm - for the creation of spatial shapes of parts; 9.5 mm thick - for ceilings; 12.5 mm thick - for wall cladding, up to 24 mm thick - for laying floor covering with dry screed.

Assembling a drywall wall

To build a wall from this material, you will first need to build a base for it - a metal or wooden frame for drywall. The choice of material for the wall is not an idle question. With the seeming benefit of using wood, here the developer faces a lot of difficulties associated with the properties of the material:

• the need for antiseptic treatment of every detail, which will help get rid of the risk of developing rot or fungal diseases. Fire protection, especially if hidden electrical wiring will be laid inside the frame, which most often happens. In addition to timber processing, electrical installation must be placed in a flexible corrugated hose made of special materials;
• careful selection of material based on straightness and the absence of screw deformations;
• changing the size of parts with fluctuations in the humidity regime in the room, which is especially important for suburban buildings with periodic visits, which results in warping of the frame and swelling of the wall surface.

All these difficulties will inevitably require, in addition to material costs, also a lot of time.

All these drawbacks are devoid of metal frames made of galvanized steel in the form of bent perforated profiles.

Several types of them are produced, designed to perform various structural elements:

1. Ceiling profiles, designated as CD, with cross-sectional dimensions 60 x 27 mm.
2. Ceiling guide profiles CW 28 x 27 mm.
3. Rack, UD - 50 x 50, 75 x 50 and 100 x 50 mm.
4. Guide profiles with dimensions 50 x 40, 75 x 40, 100 x 40 mm.

The standard length of guide profiles is 3 meters, for ceiling and rack-mount profiles - 3 or 4 meters.

U-shaped straight hangers for connecting ceiling and CD profiles are produced as auxiliary parts.

In addition, you will probably need corner framing profiles and, possibly, arched ones.

A frame made of a metal profile for a wall begins with marking its location. It is made on the floor, and then transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line and a paint cord, which will ensure the strict verticality of the structure.

The construction of a wall or partition must begin with the creation of a frame, using UW guide profiles and CW rack profiles.

The fastening of the base parts must be carried out in increments of at least 60 cm.

When choosing the pitch of the racks, it should be remembered that the dimensions of the drywall sheet are multiples of 600 mm, therefore the racks are placed, focusing on this parameter. Attention! At the location of the door on the floor, you need to break the frame.

• on one side of the frame, you need to stretch a vapor barrier film, for which a polyethylene film with a thickness of about 200 microns is used. It is pulled over the frame and fixed with construction tape;
• you need to understand how to fix a drywall sheet. Important! For this work, self-tapping screws of a special design are used. These are the so-called "drywall screws". Choose the length 1 cm more than the thickness of the GKL sheet.
• Pay attention to the shape of the screw head. It allows, without destroying the surface of the coating, to fix the sheet flush.
• in a similar way, install the rest of the wall cladding on one side, making a cutout under the doorway;
• the openings between the racks must be filled with insulation, which simultaneously acts as a soundproofing device. Otherwise, the double hollow wall will act as a resonator, amplifying sounds. For this purpose, various materials are used, both slab (minelite) and roll, such as isover, a thermal insulation device of more than 2 layers will entail the need for a volumetric frame. Wall insulation and soundproofing will allow living to be quite comfortable;
• before sheathing the second side of the frame, you need to install a second layer of steam protection, proceeding in the same way as for the first side;
• drywall sheets are sewn over the vapor barrier with screws 6 or 8 mm in diameter. They are installed in increments of at least 250 - 300 mm. Therefore, performing this operation manually with a screwdriver is not possible; you cannot do without a screwdriver.

Attention! Cutting galvanized frame profiles must be done with a hacksaw on a broomstick manually. The use of a hand grinder burns through the protective layer, subsequently the metal in this place will actively corrode. After cutting, the end must be painted over with a special protective paint, 85% consisting of finely dispersed metallic zinc.

Plasterboard wall alignment

Often, during construction or repair, the layout of the surface of a wall or partition is much easier to accomplish using gypsum board than plaster. Usually this is also done with the use of a frame, when the drywall is attached to the wall on the profile. Before attaching the profile to the wall, you need to determine the point of its closest location to the wall and install the floor and ceiling guides. Then the installation of the racks will not cause problems, since they are all structurally already remote from the walls.

As a result of the work performed, a smooth wall is obtained and it remains only to prepare its surface for the application of the topcoat.

There is a way how to level the wall with drywall without a frame. It should be noted that the surface quality of the base must be sufficiently high. Before fixing drywall to a wall without profiles, you must carefully remove all protrusions that may be an obstacle to this. Installation technologists can be as follows:

• attach a piece of plasterboard to the wall and drill the mounting holes. In this case, traces from the drill will remain on the base surface, which will be the marks for the mounting holes;
• remove the part and use these marks to drill holes for installing plastic inserts;
• apply a cement-based or gypsum-based adhesive to the wall, level with a comb trowel. You can also use polyurethane glue;
• put the part in place, fix it with screws.

Knowing how to glue drywall to the wall, you can easily cope with the rest of the coating.

Surface putty

For the final preparation of the plane of the walls for the finishing coating, its finishing with putty is used. This is done like this:

• primer with the recommended composition, gluing corners and joints with a serpyanka;
• applying a primary layer of putty, sanding after drying;
• finishing the surface with the finishing compound of the putty, drying, grinding;
• thorough cleaning of the surface of the walls and the entire room from dust;
• finishing primer of the walls for the final coating.

Knowing how to make a drywall wall, any developer can cope with this task on their own. You just need to correctly use the information received here.

At the same time, the invited specialists will perform this work at a price per square meter from 600 to 800 rubles. However, in any case - good luck to you!

Many modern apartments do not have a layout and therefore the owners independently divide the total area into rooms using interior partitions, or use decorative ones.

The easiest, fastest and most affordable way to create interior partitions are plasterboard structures... Such partitions can be either solid or with a door, and if you have the desire and time, then you can make them yourself.

Drywall is a universal building material that is used both for finishing a room and for creating new structures in it, including interior partitions, and for creating an apartment. Only the following can compete with him in terms of characteristics: or

Benefits of using drywall if it is necessary to create an interior partition with a door, they will be as follows:

• it is light material, therefore, the load on the structure of the house will be insignificant;
• all work with it is done by hand, without the involvement of assistants, since the material is light;
• the cost of drywall is low, as well as the materials needed to create the frame and surface finish ;
• material is easy to cut, it bends easily, therefore, even arched structures are created with its help;
• installation of the frame and sheets is simple and quick;
• finishing of such structures is carried out with various materials;
• gypsum plasterboards are made of natural materials, therefore they are safe for human health.

There are different types of drywall, therefore, before buying it, you need to decide which one you need:

1. usual, most often gray, used in rooms where the humidity is not more than 70%;
2. moisture resistant, has a green or blue color and is used in those rooms where the humidity is constantly high;
3. refractory, usually used in the kitchen, where there is a possibility of strong heating of the wall, fiberglass and other additives are present in its composition, it is red or gray;
4. fireproof moisture resistant, it is rarely used in rooms with difficult conditions.

Normal sheet thickness is 12.5mm, and to create arches, sheets with a thickness of 6.5 mm are used; to give them flexibility, they are pre-moistened.

Interior partition device

At the first stage of the work, it is necessary to determine the location of the future partition. For marking, use a plumb line and a cord, parallel lines are applied on the floor and on the ceiling.

It is much easier to work with a laser level, but buying it only to create a drywall wall is impractical.

Given the presence of a door, the profile is not laid on the floor for the entire length of the partition, but space is left for the doorway. When laying the profile, keep in mind that the distance left for the door is 1-2 cm larger than its width in order to be able to install the door frame.

When marking, the width of the partition is also taken into account., if it is sheathed in one sheet, then add 2.5 cm to the thickness of the frame, and if the gypsum board is laid in two layers, then add 5 cm.

To perform the specified work, you will need the following tools:

• building level;
• measuring instruments;
• a cord and a plumb line, or as their replacement - a laser level;
• corner;
• electric drill;
• metal scissors or jigsaw;
• pencil;
• stationery knife;
• putty knife;
• container for plaster.

After marking, we cut off the profile of the required length, glue the back walls with sealing tape.

Installation of profiles

Work begins with laying and securing the guide rail to the floor., after which it is installed around the entire perimeter of the future partition. The profile is fastened using screws or dowel nails, it all depends on the material of the walls.

Now using the rack profile we form a doorway, this must be done carefully and carefully, so that the distance between the posts above and below is the same... The verticality of the racks is checked by level, after which they are fixed.

To increase the strength of the doorway, it is recommended to put wooden blocks of the appropriate size in the racks and fix them with self-tapping screws.

At the next stage, the rest of the rack profiles are mounted., if you have a standard width gypsum board, then the distance between them is 60 cm.

To increase the strength of the future partition, between the vertical posts, it is necessary to fix horizontal jumpers, which are cut from the same profile.

A wooden block is also installed and fastened into the transverse profile located above the doorway, it should easily enter it, so as not to break the shape, using a square check that the angles are 90 degrees.

The rest of the transverse profiles are attached to the racks; for this, special short self-tapping screws are used.

After the frame is created, you will see that its structure is quite rigid and strong, start laying electrical wiring... The rack profiles have holes through which it will be convenient to thread the wires.

The wiring is placed in a special corrugated non-combustible insulation.

Fastening drywall

At home you can use a utility knife to cut drywall and a long ruler or rail. To do this, a ruler is applied to the sheet, a cut is made several times along the line, the deeper it is, the better, and then gently break the gypsum board and get the required size.

To simplify finishing work, at the place of the cut, make a chamfer at an angle of about 45 degrees, for this use a plane or knife.

During settlements, it is necessary to foresee in advance the places where it is planned to mount hinged furniture or equipment.

Additional profiles reinforced with wooden bars are necessarily installed here, it all depends on the weight of the hinged structures.

Left attach the sheet to the racks, and fix it, this is done using self-tapping screws, they are installed with a step of 20 cm and slightly recessed in the sheet.

If you forgot to chamfer the sheets before installing them, then this is done with a knife when they are installed on the wall.

Carrying out finishing works

Installation of the frame and gypsum board is only the beginning of creating a plasterboard partition. In the next step all seams are sealed. To do this, use a serpyanka tape and putty. Putty is also carried out on the entire surface of the wall.

After the base is dry, they begin to level the surface. The wall is covered with a primer, which will allow the plaster to gain a foothold and provide additional protection to the gypsum board. Leveling is carried out with a wide trowel and finishing plaster.

Door block installation

In the prepared opening, door frame installation, do it with wedges, self-tapping screws and foam... First, the frame is exposed with wedges and fixed with self-tapping screws, after which they proceed to the installation of the door leaf.

The correctness of the work is being checked, while the door should be easy to open and close. If everything is normal, then the remaining gaps are filled with polyurethane foam.

At this time, the door is in a closed position, or spacers are inserted into the frame so that when the foam hardens, it does not deform it.

Cut off the foam after it has completely solidified, if the canvas was removed, then hang it only a day after the installation of the box.

Finishing

At the last stage of creating a drywall wall, its finishing is carried out, for this usually use paint or wallpaper. The frame is trimmed with platbands, which help to hide the door attachment points.

Features of insulation and sound insulation

It is not recommended to leave the hollow partition; it will be filled with sheet or roll insulation. They are laid after one side of the wall is sheathed with plasterboard., and only then it is sheathed on the other side.

If it is planned to install utilities or a sliding door in such a wall, then the insulation is not laid in the place where they are located.

To create sound insulation, use mineral wool or isover. At the bottom, when installing the sheet, you need to leave a small gap, so the supports of the appropriate thickness are installed.

In order for you to independently create a drywall wall with an opening for doors, you must adhere to the following expert advice:

1. During the installation of partitions, in the room should be at least 10 degrees Celsius.
2. You need to calculate the required number of guides and rack-mount metal profiles, only then purchase them. You can cut them to the required size with a jigsaw or metal scissors.
3. The sheets are stacked tightly to each other.
4. To create holes for sockets, you must use special drill bits.
5. In the joints of the sheets, be sure to use a serpentine and well seal the heads of the self-tapping screws with putty, after which they putty the entire wall.
6. As finishing materials, you can use paint, wallpaper, tiles, cladding panels and others.

Conclusion

Now you see that there is nothing difficult in the construction of drywall partitions and all the work can be done independently. Having studied the technology for performing the work, the advice of specialists and having prepared the necessary tools, feel free to start performing these works.

Useful video

How to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands, step-by-step instructions on the video:

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Our topic today is a drywall interior wall. We will figure out how to build a frame for a plasterboard partition, how to sheathe it, how to install window and door blocks into the frame, how to make an arch arch and how to ensure maximum sound insulation of the wall. Let's get started.

How do you install an interior plasterboard wall that is strong enough and provides acceptable sound insulation? Obviously, you need to start with the installation of the frame (see Mounting the frame for drywall on the wall with your own hands). For its construction, the author strongly advises using not a bar, but a galvanized profile for installing gypsum board.

There are several reasons:

• The profiles have perfect geometry, but the bars often cannot boast of it;
• The wood warps with fluctuations in humidity. Galvanized steel transfers them without deformation;

• The tree suffers from rot and insect activity, unlike its competitor. Antiseptic impregnation partly solves the problem, but it is partly - with a consistently high humidity (typical, for example, for the operating conditions of a wall limiting a bathroom), wood can still rot.

For the construction of the frame, we need two types of profiles:

In addition to profiles, the number of purchases will include:

• Damper tape with a width corresponding to the width of the guides. Its task is to reduce the number of acoustic vibrations transmitted to capital structures from the partition frame;

Tip: instead of a damper tape, you can use rolled polyethylene foam cut into strips, which is used as a heater and a substrate for laminate and parquet flooring.

• Self-tapping screws for metal for connecting the rails with the posts. Length - 9 mm;
• Dowel screws for mounting guides.

Attention! In a wooden house, the guides are fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws with a length of at least 40 mm.

The installation of the frame is carried out in the following order:

1. We mark the line of the partition on the floor, then using a plumb line and a long ruler or profile, we transfer the markings to the ceiling and walls;
2. We fasten the guides along the marking, placing a damper tape under the profile. The fastener step is no more than half a meter. To cut the profile, use only metal scissors: abrasive cutting with a grinder is contraindicated for thin galvanized metal, since its heating leads to the burning out of zinc and the appearance of rust in the future;
3. We mark the positions of the racks. The step is exactly 60 cm along the axes of the rack profiles. In this case, the seams between adjacent sheathing sheets will fall in the middle of the racks;

Recall: the standard width of a sheet of wall drywall is 120 cm.

1. We cut in height and place the racks. We fasten each of them to the guides with metal screws on both sides. The frame is ready.

Advice: if the height of the wall is greater than the length of the sheet, it is advisable to install jumpers between the posts from the same CW profile at the level of the seam between the main and additional sheets. They will eliminate the appearance of cracks under deforming loads.

Lesson 2: sheathing

For cladding the partition, wall gypsum board with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used. Thinner plasterboard ceilings are not strong enough to survive an accidental elbow bump or portable furniture. Moreover, in rooms with high traffic (hallways, kitchens, corridors), sheathing of the frame in two layers on each side is practiced.

GCR can be normal (white) or moisture resistant (blue-green). The first is used in living rooms, and the second is used in rooms with high humidity (kitchens, bathrooms and toilets).

Please note: drywall is purchased with a margin of 10-15% for trimming.

In addition to the gypsum board, to turn the frame into a wall ready for finishing, you will need:

• Self-tapping screws for drywall or, in their absence, wood. They differ from each other only in the pitch of the carving: for fasteners for wood, it is slightly larger. Length - 25 mm (40 mm for attaching the second layer with two-layer cladding);

• Reinforcement for seams- serpyanka (adhesive fiberglass mesh 5-8 cm wide);
• Gypsum universal or finishing putty... Of the gypsum mixtures tested, the author most liked the Turkish ABS Saten: it does not give lumps when mixed, and lives after mixing for at least 45 minutes.

Moreover, ABS that has begun to set can be diluted with water and continued to use for another 15-20 minutes.

Let's break down the entire sequence of wall cladding and pre-finishing work into several technological operations and describe each of them in detail.

GKL cutting

Drywall is usually not sawn off along straight lines, but is broken at the edge of any elevation, having previously cut it along a ruler by about a quarter of the thickness. After that, it remains only to cut through the cardboard shell from the back.

If the edge is slightly uneven, it doesn't matter:

• The protrusions are removed in a matter of seconds with a special rasp;
• Other defects are repaired when filling joints.
• Curved parts have to be cut out according to the markings previously made on the sheet shell. To do this, use:
• Drywall hacksaw (or, in its absence, a narrow garden hacksaw);
• Electric jigsaw with a saw for wood.

Important: the saw teeth must point upwards towards the base of the tool. Otherwise, when cutting, it will try to bounce on the surface of the sheet, which is guaranteed to affect the accuracy of the cutting line.

Fastening drywall

The sheet is installed vertically so that its edges fall in the middle of the racks, and is attracted to all profiles covered by it (not excluding guides) with self-tapping screws with a step of no more than 20 cm.

A few basic rules for installing drywall:

• The minimum distance from the fastener to the edge of the sheet is 20 mm. If you try to fix the sheet closer to the edge, you will get a chipped edge;
• The hat should sink a millimeter deeper than the surface of the craft paper. It has to be repaired when filling;

• If the self-tapping screw has broken through the drywall, then do not unscrew it - just screw another one next to it. The hole remaining in the wall cladding you will remove during the puttying.

Mixing putty

Gypsum mixes are sold dry and are sealed with water before use (see How to dilute the putty during self-repair). Its amount per unit weight of the mixture is always indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging - usually it is equal to a liter of water per 1.6 kg of gypsum.

Mixing the putty is done as follows:

1. Pour the required amount of water into a bucket or other wide container (no more than 3 liters, otherwise you have a chance not to have time to work out the putty before it sets);

1. Pour the dry mixture into the water, distributing it as evenly as possible over the surface;
2. After 3-5 minutes, when the gypsum swells, mix the filler with a spatula or whisk until it becomes even.

Caution: never pour water into dry gypsum mix. The price of violating this rule is insoluble lumps at the bottom, which will spoil the surface of the gypsum board when puttying.

Reinforcement and puttying

The seams are reinforced with a serpentine glued to both adjacent sheets, and putty with the first layer directly through its cells. The second layer is applied after the first has dried (at least 12 hours) and hides the texture of the fiberglass mesh. The holes from the fasteners are also putty at least twice: the second layer compensates for the shrinkage of the gypsum during hydration.

The seams between the sheets cut in place need to be joined before filling. With a sharp knife, chamfers are removed from them by 2/3 of the thickness of the gypsum board. The jointing contributes to the filling of the joint with the putty to the full depth and the absence of cracks.

If the factory edges PLUK (semicircular with thinning) allow you to hide the reinforcement by applying a layer of putty flush with the surface of the gypsum board, then the edges of drywall sheets cut off in place do not give such an opportunity. If the seams stand out in thickness, they will help to hide the puttying of the entire surface of the partition.

This is done with a wide spatula - putty is applied to it with a narrower tool, after which two thin layers perpendicular to each other are applied to the gypsum board.

After the finishing layer of putty has dried, the surface of the wall is sanded (with a float or, which is much more convenient, with a grinder), cleaned of dust and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer for wallpaper or painting (see Primer for drywall under wallpaper - why is it needed).

Lesson 3: doors, windows

An interior wall made of plasterboard is often equipped with a door or (in the case of a bath or a bathroom) a light window. How to embed a window or door block into a partition? The block (box with canvas or frame) is assembled assembled at the stage of frame assembly.

The procedure for installing a door is usually as follows:

1. We leave a gap in the lower guide for the entire width of the door frame;

1. We mount on a plumb line, strictly vertically, one of the racks adjacent to the opening;
2. We set the door block in a vertical position and fasten it with self-tapping screws screwed in from the side of the profile;

Tip: for greater reliability of fastening, a sealant or foam can be applied to the outer surface of the door frame.

1. In the same way, we mount the second post on the opposite side of the block. At the same time, the door leaf must be wedged in the box with wooden wedges, scraps of plywood or hardboard - otherwise, in the future, it can overwrite the jambs;
2. Above the door block, we attach a lintel from a rack or guide profile.

The light window is mounted in the same way, but with two amendments:

1. A gap in the bottom guide is understandably unnecessary;
2. There should be two jumpers between the racks adjacent to the opening - above the window and below it.

Lesson 4: maximum stiffness with minimum thickness

How to make a gypsum board wall as rigid as possible with its minimum thickness? In this case, 50 mm thick rails and posts are used to mount the frame.

Rigidity is provided in one of three ways or a combination of them:

• Racks are connected in pairs (nested into each other or simply installed side by side);

• The spacing between the posts is reduced to 400 or even 300 mm. Do not forget: the width of the drywall sheet must be a multiple of this step;
• Wooden inserts (50 mm bars) are embedded in the racks.

Lesson 5: arches

How to embed drywall arches into the walls? The only difference between the frame of such a partition from the one described above is that the arch vault must be mounted with a flexible profile.

In this capacity, you can use:

• Special arched profile;

• A guide profile with side walls notched every 5-10 cm (depending on the radius of the plasterboard arch on the wall).

Vault cladding can be performed:

• Arched plasterboard 6 mm thick. It bends with a sufficiently small radius without damaging the sheath and core;

• Wall plasterboard, cut from the back half the depth.
• When fastened with self-tapping screws to the frame, the arch forms a segmented surface.

The rounded shape is given to the arch arch on the plasterboard wall when puttying.

Lesson 6: soundproofing

The wall between the bedroom and the living room, for obvious reasons, should provide maximum sound insulation - hardly a member of your family who wants to get enough sleep will be pleased with the sounds of a feast or watching another blockbuster on a nighttime television channel.

The simplest way to soundproof a plasterboard wall is to fill the frame cavities with mineral wool. For this purpose, it is best to purchase glued boards with a size of 1000x600 mm. Their dimensions make it possible to install insulation between the racks with a standard fold-out pitch, without cutting them in width.

In the photo - filling the partition frame with soundproof material

However, the mineral wool will extinguish only the acoustic resonance in the cavity of the frame. Meanwhile, the frame itself is also capable of transmitting acoustic vibrations from one side of the wall to the other.

The problem is solved by the construction of two independent frames with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm each with a small gap between them. The cavities between the posts are filled with mineral wool; sheathing on each side is performed in one or, which is much more reasonable, in two layers.

Conclusion

We hope that our lessons will help the reader to master the basics of construction from GCR. To learn more about how do-it-yourself drywall interior walls are built, the video in this article will help you. Good luck!