The dismantling of the old sewer system in an apartment is in many ways a more responsible procedure than in a private house. Indeed, in case of errors, not only your home, but also the apartments of your neighbors can suffer. For this reason, many owners hire a professional team to work with sewers, whose services are not the cheapest. But if you want to save money and are a happy owner skillful hands, you can replace the apartment sewer yourself.

Where to begin?

The first thing you should do on the way to new system intra-apartment sewerage is to draw a future network. This is important to do even if you plan to replace pipes and some plumbing equipment rather than redo sewer scheme, changing the position of sanitary appliances and the places where pipes pass.

It is not necessary to draw up a drawing, as is done in design organizations, but the diagram should be as detailed as possible.

The plan should show:

• lengths of all pipes to scale;
• be sure to indicate the diameters of pipelines, their number, as well as the number and location of all connecting elements and hydraulic seals;
• sketch the sanitary facilities and their location;
• the location of the riser;
• the number of pipes and the distance from them to the walls;
• location of inspection hatches;
• pipeline slope.

In order to correctly draw up a plan for arranging the drainage system, as well as to implement it, it is necessary to take into account the nuances of installing an internal sewer network.

Rules for arranging sewerage in an apartment

Since the replacement of the sewer will take place in apartment building, in which the apartments located one above the other have a common riser, then do not forget to notify the neighbors about the upcoming work. After all, you will cause them a number of inconveniences, which is better to warn about.

In addition, you will have to agree with the organization involved in home maintenance to turn off the water supply. So, at least you will protect yourself from the activities of forgetful neighbors associated with the bathroom.

From a purely technical point of view, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.

1. Many experts do not recommend replacing cast iron riser without special need, since this material is really durable, and the dismantling of a cast iron pipe is a complex process, which, if necessary, is best left to professionals.

   

2. The modern material most suitable for self-assembly are pipes and fittings made of plastic.

   
   

   

3. An important condition for the installation of wiring is compliance with the slope for each running meter pipeline. The amount of inclination depends on the diameter of the pipe. If the cross section of the pipes is 5 cm, then the slope should be about 3 cm, with a diameter of 11 cm - 2 cm. A change in the slope should not be allowed both up and down, because this will eventually lead to blockage.

   
   

4. The diameter of the pipes depends on their purpose. The riser, which will take over the drains in large portions, should have a cross section of 100-110 mm. This applies, for example, vertical pipe, collecting sewage toilets, washing machines and dishwashers.
   If the installation of the latter is not planned, and the bathroom has a separate riser, then the vertical pipeline that receives water from the kitchen may have a diameter of 5 cm. For sewerage, it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 4-5 cm.
5. It is important to consider that the sewer system is subject to dynamics during operation. For this reason, with a socket connection, it is necessary to insert the smooth end of one pipe into the socket of the other not completely, leaving a gap of 10 cm.
   This compensates for the increase in pipe length as the temperature rises. Another dynamic is associated with the creation of internal stress in the pipeline, which is regulated by two types of fastening the riser with clamps, which will be discussed below.
6. It is recommended to install grease traps on pipes that drain water from kitchen sinks and dishwashers.

   

7. Of all plumbing fixtures, a toilet must be located at the lowest point of the intra-apartment sewer network.
8. It is mandatory to have water seals after plumbing, in which there is a liquid that prevents the penetration of fetid odors into the room.

   
   

   Water seal for sewerage

9. If during the operation of the old network a characteristic smell emanated from plumbing drains, and during the flushing of water from the toilet bowl or washing machine a loud squelching sound was heard from the pipes, this indicates poor ventilation of the riser. Possibly the drain pipe is clogged. Then you need to call a locksmith from the organization serving your home. However, in some cases, simply cleaning the ventilation is not enough. Then the riser is equipped with a check valve.

   
   

After all measurements are made, a scheme is drawn up, taking into account all the nuances, and selected and purchased necessary materials, you can proceed with the dismantling process, if we are talking about replacing the old network.

Dismantling the old network

It is possible to remove used pipes only when the water supply is turned off.

Start by dismantling the riser. It is easier if the replacement of this vertical pipe occurs simultaneously for all neighbors. However, this option is rare.

Much more often they change the system in only one apartment. Let's consider this option.

The work associated with the dismantling of the riser is dangerous and requires a certain skill, so it is better to invite a specialist to carry it out. In any case, you can not do without a partner.

Step 1. The riser is fixed from above with the help of two half-brackets connected to each other with studs built into the wall. Between the half brackets and the pipe itself, you need to lay a rubber gasket. This measure will allow, when removing part of the riser, not only to avoid the fall of its section coming from the higher living neighbors, but also to compensate for the vibration that will appear during the dismantling process.

Step 2. First, all plumbing fixtures are separated from the sewer network. Make the most of the bathroom.

Step 3. Cut off the pipe going to the tee, leaving small plot pipeline. This measure will facilitate the further dismantling of the tee.

Note! Cutting old pipes must be done carefully, not only if you plan to keep the riser or at least the tee. The reason for caution is the brittleness of cast iron. During dismantling, vibration is created, from which the riser itself may suffer, and the fragment may clog the pipe.

Step 4. 2 oblique cuts are made in the center of the riser so that maximum distance between them was 12 cm.

Step 5. Inserting the wedges first into the lower and then into the upper cut, with a chisel and a hammer, carefully remove the pipe section between the cuts.

Step 6. While one person holds the old pipe on top, the other cleans the top joint of the old pipes. If the seal is made with sulfur, then the junction can be heated with a burner. The sulfur will melt and can be removed with a knife.

Step 7. Swing the pipe along with the cross, so that later they can be pulled out of the socket of the pipe going to the neighbors from below. This joint can also be fixed with gray.

Step 8 Clean the socket of the pipe going to the neighbors from the old sealant.

The old riser is removed, you can proceed with the installation of a new one.

Installation of a new riser

If you removed not only part of the riser, but also the tee, the installation of a vertical pipe can be done according to the following scheme.

Step 1. A rubber seal lubricated with sealant is inserted into the socket of the lower pipe freed from the old sealant.

Step 2. Now a tee is installed in the socket.

Note! In some cases, the connection of the cross with the socket may not seem strong enough. This is corrected by using special silicone or plumbing tow.

Step 3 On the wall, mark the axis of the riser with a pencil.

Step 4. Assemble the riser without rubber seals and install it in place for the purpose of verification. At this point, you can mark the places for mounting fasteners on the wall. V standard apartments 3-4 clamps are enough. If there are any errors in the assembly of the riser, then they are corrected.

Note! Do not forget about the inspection hatches on the riser. They will help in inspecting the vertical pipe for blockage and cleaning it.

Step 5 Mount brackets on the wall.

Note! Brackets are desirable to use, since it is not recommended to install the pipe close to the wall.

Step 6. Assemble the riser for finishing, this time using rubber seals and hermetic grease. At the top, they connect it to a cast-iron pipe with a cuff, and lower part inserted into a tee. Fix the riser to the wall with clamps.

There are 2 types of fixation.

1. Near the sockets, a rigid fastening is used, carried out with the help of tightly tightened clamps with rubber gaskets.
2. Additional fixation can be carried out with a floating connection, which is produced by the same clamps. In this case, a rubber gasket is not used, and the fasteners are not tightened much.

Riser installation completed. You can start distributing.

Video - Replacing the sewer riser

It makes no sense to dwell on the dismantling of old horizontal sewer pipes. The main thing is to free the pipes from concrete and carefully disconnect from the tee. Since the pipeline is old and it is not necessary to maintain its integrity, it is much easier to dismantle it.

The principle of installing a new wiring is not much different from installing a riser.

Step 1. First, an axis for the passage of future pipes is drawn on the wall with a pencil, observing the slope. Often a strobe is made in the wall, in which the wiring fixed with clamps is laid.

Note! The width of the strobe should be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipeline laid in it.

Step 2 Produce a rough assembly of the pipeline without gaskets and apply it to the wall.

Note! The bells must face the movement of water.

Step 3 Collect the pipeline from the place where it enters the tee to plumbing fixtures. All connections are made using a rubber seal and sealant. The ends of the pipes must be chamfered and free from unevenness.

Installation of sewer pipes

Note! Part of the clamps must rigidly fix the pipe, while in others the pipeline must have a floating stroke to compensate for the vibration of the pipes during the movement of water.

Step 5. The toilet is connected to the riser using corrugated pipe at least 10 cm in diameter.

Step 6. Connect the rest of the sanitary equipment to the wiring.

After installation, first carry out a visual inspection for leaks. Then you can turn on the water and use it to accurately check the strength of the joints.

Video - How to connect plastic pipes

Checking pipe joints

To make sure that the pipes are hermetically connected to each other in a divorce and a riser, you must proceed as follows.

1. Dial the bathroom by closing the overflow hole.
2. Release the drains and at the same time open the hot and cold water at full power.
3. Plug the drain hole on the toilet. It is convenient to use a plunger for this.
4. Fill the toilet with a bucket of water to the brim and open the drain.
5. Ask the neighbors from above to drain the water to check the tightness of the riser.

If the work is done qualitatively, then there should be no water at all at the joints.

Such hard work to be done to replace the sewer network inside the apartment. If you doubt that you can do it efficiently and in a short time, then contact the specialists. After all, the neighbors also do not come to wait while you deal with the nuances of dismantling the old and installing a new network on the spot.

Video - Laying plastic sewer

A major overhaul is never complete without replacing the sewer system. But the prices for repair specialists force them to postpone these works for the next years or take up the matter on their own. Without prior experience, installing sewer pipes with your own hands will be very difficult, but the tips and tricks from our article will help you install them at a height.

Beginning of work

One of the main components of any apartment is sewerage. This system into the room is non-pressure and performs the function of discharging general wastewater. They must be delivered from the apartment to the common riser of the house. That is, to perform their immediate tasks, the sewer must be at a certain slope. At the same time, it is necessary that the angle of descent allows you to set the direction of the wastewater and allows them to move quickly.

It is necessary to start work with the layout of the sewer system. If the owners of the apartment simply arrange a major overhaul with the replacement of old pipes, then the task becomes much easier. If you moved into a new building, and there is no sewerage in it, then it will be necessary to address the question of how the sewerage is arranged in an apartment building. Neighbors or housing and communal services workers can help in this matter.

What steps need to be taken during the planning stage? First of all, you need to decide on the future locations of plumbing and other important parts of the bathroom. Secondly, it is necessary to calculate correct angle sewer pipe installations. Thirdly, you need to choose the right materials for repair work.

Material selection

Do-it-yourself high-quality sewerage wiring in an apartment largely depends on the right materials for work. Of course, most important detail become pipes. Previously, this material had a very narrow choice. Cast iron was considered the most popular sewer pipe, but in our advanced century, a lot of new variety has appeared. Now, most often, owners use plastic pipes in their apartments:

• Polyethylene - their main advantage is low price. But we do not recommend dwelling on this option, because apart from the cost, pipes have no other advantages. They are highly susceptible to deformation, have low heat resistance and are rather unreliably sealed. Only "alternative" manufacturers continue to supply polyethylene pipes for sale. But after all, doing a sewer repair that will last a couple of days is not profitable and stupid.
• PVC - average cost. The hydraulic resistance of these pipes is considered the smallest. Between themselves, they can be connected using dichloroethane glue. But there are also disadvantages. First of all, limited heat resistance (up to 80 ° C), not high strength and resistance to chemicals. Cleaning of PVC pipes is carried out exclusively with a plunger or an ultrasonic emitter.
• Polyisopropylene - one of the most expensive pipes on the market. this moment. It does not have as smooth a surface as PVC, but is otherwise ahead of other types of sewer pipes. Withstands temperatures in excess of 130°C, so strong and resistant that it can withstand mechanical and chemical cleaning.

In addition to pipes, it is necessary to purchase material for their connection. The best option will be silicone grease. It was created intended for the installation of sewer pipes. By using silicone grease, the owner will be able to finish repair work in the shortest possible time, and also reduce the hydraulic resistance. If your choice fell on polypropylene pipes, it must be borne in mind that special cuffs are required for their installation. If they are unsuccessfully joined, the pipe will deform and create stress in this part of the sewer due to sudden temperature changes. But with the help of silicone grease, this can be avoided.

Calculation of the angle of inclination

As already mentioned above - the selection of the angle of inclination for the sewer pipe is a very important step. If the slope is too small, the wastewater will not be able to be delivered to the right place, and if it is too large, the water will leave quickly, and the contaminants will attach to the walls of the pipes, which will create permanent blockages. Therefore, there are well-defined limits of values. The minimum for a pipe with a diameter of 5 cm will be an angle of inclination of 3 cm / m, 11 cm - 2 cm / m, 16 cm - 0.8 cm / m, 20 cm - 0.7 cm / m. The maximum does not depend on the diameter of the pipe and is 15 cm / m (an exception will be options with a length of more than one and a half meters). A right angle for sewerage becomes possible with its vertical arrangement.

It is quite difficult to maintain the angle of inclination in the apartment with your own hands, since it is necessary to take into account not only the parameters, but also the features of the sewer pipes. Therefore, at this stage of work, it is better to take the help of a specialist.

Scheme of the sewer system

With the usual replacement of the sewer with a newer one, the stage with the scheme disappears by itself, since it is enough to remember the location and mount it according to the same principle. But in cases where there were problems with old pipes or they are completely absent in the new room, the quality of this item will be the main guarantee of a job well done.

The scheme for connecting plumbing fixtures should include the following items:

• rooms in which the work is supposed to be performed;
• in each of these rooms we designate the location of the details of the sewer system (it is imperative to indicate the dimensions of the elements and their distance from the walls). Moreover, the details are not only bathroom appliances, but also complete wiring;
• location of all fittings and service elements;
• the place where the central sewer riser is located.

After, it is advisable to give the drawn up scheme to specialists to check its correctness (the cost of such a service will not be too high).

Dismantling of old pipes

After all the previously performed actions, you can proceed directly to the repair work itself. If the house previously had a sewer system, then the first thing you need to do is get rid of it, that is, dismantle the old pipes. At this stage important role win back relations with neighbors. To do the dismantling yourself, we perform the following steps in turn:

• We select the places in the walls in which the pipes are sealed. You can choose another way to solve this problem, but the main thing is that the pipeline be "freed" from the walls.
• All bathroom appliances located in such rooms as the kitchen and bath are eliminated, and the rooms themselves are freed from unnecessary things.
• In places where new parts will be installed, draw contours on the surfaces with a pencil.
• We agree with the neighbors about turning off the water for a certain time.
• We block the riser on the floor.
• You will also need to remove the toilet bowl and flush barrel in the toilet.

• We disconnect the wiring of the sewer from the riser. In order to complete this process, it will be necessary to cut the pipe in two places, the distance between them should be within 12-15 cm. After that, we drive a wedge into the cut, which is located further from the riser. The last step is to disconnect the entire pipe and break off the cut.
• We drill holes along the previously induced contour (or you can beat the contour with a chisel and hammer) and remove the rest of the pipe. At the same time, it must be remembered that cast iron is quite fragile, and therefore it is necessary to perform actions very carefully.
• We proceed to clean the internal outlets of the pipe and toilet bowl. Next, we plug them tightly with unnecessary rags.
• We open the riser and supply water, which we inform our neighbors about. The main thing is to warn them, after what time you will have to start working again.
• Next, we disassemble the pipeline, starting from the far end.

Installation work

After removing the old pipes, we proceed to installation. There are two types: rough and fine. Today we will consider the second option, in which the installation is carried out starting from the riser. The basic rule of this type of installation: the size is adjusted not to the next, but to the previous sewer pipe. If you do the opposite, the wiring simply will not hold.

The installation instructions for sewerage in an apartment are as follows:

1. The first step is to make the transition from a cast-iron pipe to a plastic one. To do this, you need to install a special cuff. It is located in the outlet of the riser.

2. Having fixed the cuff in the 1st section of the sewer pipe, we check whether the mounting pipe is fixed.

3. Let's move on to cropping. This must be done carefully, respecting the dimensions.

5. We finish the installation using a sealant;

6. We collect the remaining pipeline behind the pipe sections, using the same principle.

7. To install the riser, you need to fit the toilet pipe exactly to the size, and then put it on the sealant, and install the toilet bowl back.

8. As soon as the sealant has completely hardened, it is necessary to check for sewage leaks, make it soundproof and install a water seal.

Many are interested in whether a water seal is an important detail in the installation of sewers. Without it, the pipes, of course, will work, but its installation is necessary. The purpose of a water seal in the sewer system is to prevent unpleasant odors. Therefore, if you do not have a desire to hear the stench of the sewer - do not skimp on this detail.

Mounting notes

Observing all the steps for installing pipes, the owner of the apartment will be able to independently install the sewer system. But sometimes these repairs become too heavy to carry out. Therefore we found helpful tips for the installation of sewerage in an apartment from real professionals:

• be sure to wear protective clothing before proceeding with the installation of pipes;
• so that there are no problems with installing the cuff, lubricate it with liquid soap. Then the part will be much easier to enter the pipe cut;
• to be more confident in the reliability of the connection of the system, before installation, lubricate the ends of the pipe with glycerin grease;
• if you do not live on the top floor, then it is not recommended to replace the riser;
• socket connection of pipes is carried out using rubber seals.

Joint sealing

To perform sealing, you will need to perform the following steps:

• select correct sealant. To mount sewer pipes, you need to purchase neutral, silicone, and also polyurethane;
• it is necessary to process each of the plastic gaskets. Do not apply sealant in a thick layer, this will only worsen the quality of work. Also, do not forget to install rubber gaskets in the couplings;
• then you will need to apply sealant to the surface of the mounting pipe and to the outer wall of the mating sewer pipe;
• pipes are fixed in couplings;
• we wrap the resulting joints with cling film and level the sealant, without pressing hard, with the help of any tool (trowel, brush, roller, etc.);
• The film should remain at the joints until the sealant has completely cured.

After complete sealing of the sewer, you can start using it. But first you need to check the installed system for leakage.

Checking for leaks in the sewer system

Leak testing is a mandatory step. If you skip this process in the future, the sewer can simply break through and flood all the neighbors from below. To check for leaks, fill full bath. Next, you need to open all existing taps in the room and remove the plug from the bath. If everything has leaked out and no puddles have appeared, you can sleep peacefully, the sewerage system is made at the highest level.

Conclusion

By adhering to the rules for installing pipes and the tips described in the article, you can easily and easily make a sewer in an apartment with your own hands. The main thing is to carry out all the processes in good faith and remember that the comfort of housing will depend on the quality of the completed system. If, after reading the information provided, you still have questions, we recommend that you watch the video on how to make a sewer in an apartment yourself. It is located below:

When planning a repair, which includes the replacement of sewer pipes, the transfer or installation of additional plumbing fixtures, you need to clearly understand how the sewerage system works in an apartment building. Without understanding how the system works, it is extremely difficult to avoid mistakes during installation. And such errors are usually expensive, because the only way to eliminate them is to completely redo the repair.

I must say that the sewerage device in the apartment is not particularly difficult. At least this sewage system is simpler than plumbing. The task of the sewerage system is simple: it is required to transport water from the water intake point (sink, washing machine, shower cabin, etc.) to the riser.

Consider how sewerage is designed and assembled in an apartment building, as well as the norms and rules for performing these works.

Sewerage device in an apartment building

In houses that were built according to standard projects in the 60-90s of the last century, the layout provided for the close location of the bathroom and kitchen, therefore, the sewerage system of any multi-storey building is basically the same.

As a rule, the wiring starts under the kitchen sink, then passes through the bathroom and toilet, where it crashes into a common sewer riser that runs through all floors. The riser has access to the roof, this is necessary so that the ventilation of the sewer in an apartment building can function normally.

The basic principles by which the system is mounted:

• The function of the intra-apartment sewerage is the delivery of water from plumbing fixtures to a common house riser.
• The system works on the principle of gravity, the creation of additional pressure, as a rule, is not required.

• In order for water to move without delay, pipes should be placed at a certain angle. The angle of inclination is determined by building codes.
• The slope must be maintained along the entire length, otherwise, blockages will often form in certain areas (especially in the places of turns).

Optimum pipe angle

Even small children know that water cannot flow uphill, therefore, when organizing gravity sewerage systems, it is very important that the end of the pipe at the reception is located higher than the tie-in to the riser. In addition, care must be taken that the slope is uniform along the entire length of the pipeline.

When is a sewerage scheme designed apartment building, it is known that the lowest point of the pipeline in each apartment has a certain position - this is the place where the pipe is inserted into the common riser. As a rule, this point is located at a small distance from the floor slab.

Therefore, to solve the problem, it is necessary to correctly determine the height of the opposite end. To what height should the upper part of the pipeline be raised? This value is determined by two parameters:

• diameter;
• Length.

V building codes the following values ​​are accepted:

• When using pipes having a diameter of 85-100 mm, the slope should be two percent.
• For a smaller diameter (40-50 cm), a slightly larger slope is needed - three percent.

Advice! In practice, this requirement is met as follows: for each meter of a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, the slope will be 3 cm. That is, if, for example, the sink is located two meters from the riser, then the upper end of the pipe must be raised relative to the entry point into the riser by 6 cm.

But can the sewerage scheme in the apartment function normally if the slope of the pipes is made more than recommended? It would seem that an increase in the angle of inclination should benefit the operation of the sewer system. In fact this is not true. If only pure water, then increasing the angle of inclination of the pipe would make sense.

However, contaminated water is sent to the sewer system. For example, in a hole kitchen sink fat, small particles of food are constantly ingested. All these contaminants have a "tendency" to settle on the walls of pipes, forming blockages. In order not to have to clean the sewer system weekly, the sewerage device in an apartment building is made according to the principle of self-cleaning pipes.

In order for water to be able to wash off plaque from the pipe walls, it must move at a certain speed and fill a certain part of the pipe diameter. To ensure this condition, the optimal slope of the pipes is used.

Advice! In order for the pipes to be self-cleaning, two types of pipe laying are used in apartments: at an optimal angle (2-3% depending on the diameter) or vertically, that is, at an angle of 90 degrees. The latter option is used when the optimal angle of inclination does not ensure that the pipe rises to the height of the device connection point.

What devices can be connected?

V modern apartments there are devices that do not need to be raised above the floor in order to connect to the sewer system. This is a dishwasher and washing machine.

Since this Appliances equipped with pumps that supply water under pressure, the connection points of these devices can be located at any convenient height. Thus, machines for washing and washing dishes can be placed at any distance from the entry of the pipeline into the riser and at the most "underestimated" sections of the system.

sewerage scheme

Plumbing fixtures are usually connected to the sewer system. Although there are exceptions. For example, a water heater and a heated towel rail do not form sewage during operation, so they do not need to be connected to a sewer pipeline.

Most often, do-it-yourself sewerage in an apartment is laid according to the standard scheme:

• The sewer riser is supplied with a cross, which has three outlets: two for connection with a diameter of 50 mm, and one for a hundred-millimeter.
• The main line, having a diameter of 100 mm, is used to connect the toilet.
• The first 50 mm line is used to connect plumbing fixtures located in the bathroom - a shower cabin, a bathtub, a washbasin, etc.
• The second fifty-millimeter line is used to connect appliances located in the kitchen. As a rule, this is a sink and a dishwasher.
• The remaining pipes of the system are branchings leading from the main highways to the devices. The connection sequence is determined by the location of the device. The farther away the fixture is, the higher it should be in relation to the injection point.

Advice! In apartments large area two sewer risers can be installed. In such projects, the kitchen and bathroom facilities are usually located at a distance from each other.

Sewerage repair in the apartment

Since the eternal equipment has not yet been invented, sooner or later each owner will be faced with the need to change the sewer pipes. During overhaul the sewerage in the apartment can be replaced with your own hands.

Pipe selection

Today, rarely anyone installs in an apartment cast iron pipes, most owners prefer plastic. Suitable for sewers:

• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC).
• Polyethylene (HDPE).
• Polypropylene (PPRC).

Advice! There is no fundamental difference when using the listed pipes in an apartment, so you can safely purchase any of the varieties.

Pipe assembly technology

Connection technology plastic pipes extremely simple:

• Each pipe on one side has a coupling equipped with a rubber sealing ring.
• Connecting parts (fittings) have the same couplings.
• For docking, it is necessary to insert the smooth end of the pipe (without a coupling) into the coupling of the fitting part or other pipe. Sealing ring seal the connection.

• It is recommended to first drive the pipe to the stop, and then move it a centimeter (no more) back. Such a trick will create a damper gap necessary to compensate for linear expansions.

Difficulties of redevelopment

When performing redevelopment, sometimes it becomes necessary to transfer the sewerage in the apartment. For example, if there is an expansion of the bathroom by attaching a corridor area to it, or if the kitchen is transferred to the room.

In this case, it is far from always possible to place the devices so that the water can move by gravity. To solve the problem, it is recommended to use special pumps for sewage.

Exploitation

All residents should know how to properly use the sewer. If households violate the rules for using the sewer, you will often have to clean the pipes, as blockages will form constantly.

The need to urgently clean the sewer, as a rule, arises if large debris has entered the system, for example, a plastic bag or a rag. In this case, it will be possible to clean the sewer only mechanically using a cable.

But regular cleaning to remove deposits of grease and soap deposits on pipes can be carried out using chemicals that sell in the departments of household goods.

So, the scheme of intra-apartment sewerage, which is equipped with residential multi-story houses, is not particularly complex. The main requirement for design and installation is the observance of the optimal slope of the pipes, that is, the pipes must be laid at a certain angle. Therefore, the problem of how to conduct sewage in an apartment can be successfully solved by every home master.

If it is impossible to fulfill this condition (for example, during redevelopment), forced sewerage in the apartment will help to solve the problem, that is, the installation of pumps that will supply effluents to pipes under pressure.

Sewer systems make life easier for people, making it much more comfortable. Unfortunately, this does not apply to old communications. They have long since fallen into disrepair. From old sewer pipes come unpleasant odors, they are clogged and can crack and leak at any time. Such systems are not able to make life easier, but only add to the hassle. Sooner or later, the replacement of the sewer in the apartment will become inevitable. It is better, without waiting for the troubles associated with old communications, to replace the system as planned.

Choosing material for a new pipeline

For laying sewer communications, pipes from:

• ceramics,
• polymers,
• metal.

Ceramic pipes for sewerage

Products made from this material are expensive. Because of this, ceramic pipes are very rarely used for private sewage.

The advantage of such systems is resistance to aggressive environments. Therefore, they are mainly used in production related to chemicals.

Ceramic pipes are not cheap, but they are highly resistant to aggressive environments.

Pipes made of polymeric materials

Most often, the replacement of sewer pipes in an apartment is carried out using polymer products. Their smooth surface prevents blockages from forming and does not grow over time. They come in two types and are made of polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride.

Polypropylene PP

. Most optimum material for laying internal sewerage. These pipes are easy to install. They are resistant to high temperatures and durable.

Polypropylene pipes are durable and have good resistance to high temperatures.

PVC

. Gives products sufficient strength and resistance to ultraviolet radiation. However, PVC pipes, when burned and heated, emit harmful substances. In addition, they are unstable to the action of aggressive environments. However, they are quite suitable for replacing sewerage in an apartment.

PVC pipes are durable, UV resistant, but emit harmful substances when heated

metal pipeline

Steel and cast iron are used as materials for the production of metal pipes. The low price of steel products, strength and resistance to high temperatures allow them to be used for transportation industrial waste in the petrochemical industry. However, due to their high weight and susceptibility to corrosion, they are not suitable for installation in an apartment.

Cast iron sewer pipes are resistant to aggressive environments, but are not cheap

Cast iron pipes are more expensive than steel pipes, but their resistance to corrosion is much higher. The use of such products for laying sewers in an apartment is quite possible. Only if you are not embarrassed by the decrease in patency of pipes over time, the complexity of installation due to the weight of the product and the need for special equipment for installation. But cast iron pipes have high strength and long service life.

How are sewer pipes connected?

• • • With rubber sleeve. This connection is more suitable for cast iron pipes.

Plastic sewer pipes connect

socket method

. With this method, the end of the pipe is inserted into the expanded part (bell) of the other. A rubber seal or ring is used to seal the connection.

When connecting pipes in a socket way, do not forget to use a rubber seal

To cut the plastic pipe, you can use a hacksaw. After that, to facilitate installation, a chamfer is removed from the edge of the pipe. If this is not done, the sealing collar may be damaged.

Preparing for the replacement process

Before starting all work, a sewerage scheme in the apartment should be drawn up, which will help determine the number of pipes and additional elements. When compiling it, all plumbing fixtures, places and methods of connecting them to the sewer pipe are taken into account.

Please note that it is not worth making a 90 ° turn of the highway.

Accordingly, the schemes determine what materials will be needed to carry out the work. In addition to pipes with a socket, you may need: an adapter between plastic and cast iron, an expansion pipe, a revision, a cross, a coupling, a branch, a tee.

Dismantling of the old cast iron sewer system

Residents of the upper floors can immediately start dismantling. But those who have neighbors from above need to warn them about the planned work so that they do not use the sewer for some time. It will be much better if the main riser is replaced in all apartments at the same time. If no one else agrees to change the pipe, you will have to cut out only your part of the riser.

This is done very carefully so as not to damage the pipes going to the neighbors. There is no need to save old rusty pipes, so they can be sawn into convenient location. Before doing this, you need to disconnect all plumbing fixtures so as not to destroy them. Then short sections are disassembled, after which they proceed to the most difficult process - the dismantling of the riser.

To do this, in the middle of the riser, using a pipe cutter or grinder, make two cuts at a distance of 15 cm and at a slight angle to each other.

It is undesirable to cut the pipe right to the end. Otherwise, the upper part of the riser may pinch the disc grinder

It is necessary to make incisions at a slight angle, so that later you can cut a section of the pipe

Then you need to very carefully, so that nothing falls into the sewer, remove the cut piece from the pipe. Now there are two pieces of riser left: one hanging from the ceiling and the other sticking out of the bottom tee. First, the upper piece is cut off, but taking into account the height of the shaped part, which you will then put on the rest of the riser sticking out from the ceiling.

To cut a pipe strictly perpendicular to its axis, you must first stick adhesive tape along the cut line

Then remove the lower piece of the riser. If it can be swung, then you need to gently swing it and pull it up until the pipe comes out of the tee. If the pipe "sits" firmly, you first need to clear the seam between the riser and the tee. And then again try to swing. If these actions do not lead to the desired, you will have to saw off the tee, retreating a couple of centimeters from the socket. And then, using a special wedge, remove the rest of the tee piece by piece.

During the dismantling of the riser, make sure that no pieces of pipe fall into the sewer. It is best to close the hole with a rag

Installation of a new sewer riser

So, the sewerage device in the apartment begins with the installation of a riser. The first step is to connect the tee with a piece of a neighboring pipe sticking out from below. If their diameter is different, use a cuff. Then determine the length of the pipe and cut. After that, you need to try on all the components of the riser. To do this, put the pipe all the way to the compensator.

After installing the system, do-it-yourself sewerage in the apartment must be tested

Then the resulting structure is inserted into the lower tee. Then they connect the top of the pipe with a piece of cast-iron pipe sticking out from the ceiling.

The fitting installation of the riser is made without gaskets.

Mark the fasteners and secure the upper and lower clamps. Then everything is disassembled and put in place already with rubber gaskets.

Applications liquid soap for lubricating the ends of sewer pipes during installation, facilitates assembly.

Internal wiring rules

Sewerage is being laid out in the apartment, starting from the riser according to the drawn up scheme. Then plumbing fixtures are attached. In order to prevent internal stress, not only a rigid, but also a floating mount is used. What is the difference? Rigid fastening does not allow the pipe to move. It is performed using plastic fasteners or a clamp with a bolted seal. The floating mount allows only longitudinal displacement. Perform it in the same way, only without a sealant.

To install the toilet, use a special corrugated pipe

Carrying out such work is based on certain rules:

• In order to avoid leakage of the sewer line, the sockets are installed towards the movement of drains.
• Shaped parts are not subject to shortening and any change in shape.
• The slope of the sewer line is made in the direction of the riser.
• The transition of the riser to the outlet pipe should not go at a right angle.
• A pipe with a diameter of 11 cm is brought to the toilet, and 0.5 cm to the rest of the plumbing fixtures.

An example of how to sewer in an apartment, look at the video:

After installing the system, the sewerage system in the apartment, installed with your own hands, must be tested. All connections should be checked for leaks. Usually, if the installation of plastic pipes is carried out according to the rules, using seals, no defects are detected. After checking, you can build a frame to mask the sewer pipes. And install the cladding.

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Sewerage in the apartment: how not to drown in sewage and not quarrel with neighbors

In this article I will talk about how the sewerage in the apartment is mounted, changed and repaired with my own hands. We have to study the materials used in the installation of risers and intra-apartment wiring, their features, typical sewage problems and, of course, their solutions.

Areas of responsibility

Who is responsible for sewerage in your apartment? How are areas of responsibility divided?

The sewer riser is a common property. The housing department or another organization serving your house is responsible for the condition of the pipes and fittings of the riser along the first socket connection after the tee or cross.

Blockages, leaks and other problems are fixed free of charge; at night, representatives may be involved to eliminate large leaks emergency service(including urban).

Everything after the first connection with a tee or cross is on the owner's balance sheet. Leaks and blockages are eliminated for a fee and only in the daytime. Of course, you can hire to troubleshoot outside specialists or, if you have the appropriate skills, do all the work yourself.

In practice, the apartment owner often has to do the work of municipal organizations, including repair, replacement and cleaning of risers.
Dear reader, you are probably familiar from your own experience with an unshakable rule: if you want something to be done well, do it yourself.

How it all works

To begin with, let's study in detail the sewerage device in the apartment.

materials

What pipes for sewerage in the apartment were used before and are currently used? What can be encountered in new buildings and housing of the secondary fund?

Cast iron

Cast iron pipes had no alternatives until the 70s and 80s of the last century. Here are their most important features.

• The service life is 25 - 40 years. Cast iron is less susceptible to corrosion than steel, but is not completely protected from it: after prolonged contact with water and aggressive drains, cast iron pipes become brittle and often crumble on sockets;

• The installation of socket joints is labor intensive. It takes an experienced plumber at least 10-20 minutes to mint and seal one socket. The tightness of the socket is ensured by sealing with a cable (organic fiber impregnated with bitumen), sealing is carried out cement-sand mortar;

Sometimes, when installing cast-iron sockets, builders used molten sulfur. To dismantle such connections, they have to be heated with a hairdryer or blowtorch.
Work must be done with the windows wide open and in a respirator: the smell of burning sulfur literally takes your breath away.

• The main problem with cast-iron risers is the destruction of the bell where a poorly fixed top pipe presses on it;

• For combs (intra-apartment wiring), leaks along sockets with broken chasing are more characteristic. Restoring the tightness of the socket is often hampered by proximity to the wall.

Cast iron sewer pipes are still sold. However, their price (4 - 6 times more expensive than plastic), weight and labor-intensive installation make the metal uncompetitive.

Monolithic polyethylene

Monolithic polyethylene combs, made for a specific layout of the apartment, I met in houses built in the 80s. They are characterized by:

• Plasticity, tendency to sag under its own weight with the formation of areas with counterslopes. In the future, sagging leads to permanent blockages;
• Exceptional durability and mechanical strength. I have never encountered mechanical damage plastic comb or leaks in it.

The main problem with such a comb is its connection with the socket of a cast-iron tee behind the toilet or on the riser. The builders massively sealed the socket with a cable and cement, which led to a gradual deformation of the plastic and the inevitable appearance of leaks.

Prefabricated plastic sewer

Modern plastic sewerage is a system of pipes and fittings with socket connections equipped with ring rubber seals. The most common materials are PVC and polypropylene. Assembly is simple, does not require special skills or expensive tools; pipes serve at least 50 years.

The only problem plastic sewer worth mentioning - extremely low sound insulation: if you have a plastic riser installed in your toilet, you will hear the neighbor's toilet flush no worse than the neighbors themselves.

Hydraulic valves

The connection of the comb with all plumbing fixtures must be absolutely tight. Any gap means that sewer smells will freely enter your home. First of all, this concerns the residents of the upper floors: if the ventilation of the riser fails, the draft that arises in it will transport all the aromas and fumes to them.

In order to prevent odors from penetrating into the bathroom and kitchen through plumbing fixtures, each of them is equipped with a water seal. The higher the water is relative to the bend of the siphon, the greater the pressure difference between the room and the sewer is able to withstand without breaking the water seal.

The siphon is not only a water seal, but also a primitive filter that limits the ingress of sand and large particles of debris into the sewer.

Why can there be a pressure difference?

The mechanism is:

1. When draining water from the toilet in the upper part of the riser, the flow fills the entire section of the vertical pipe and moves down. A zone is formed in front of the flow front high blood pressure. Usually, excess air is forced out into the sewer bed and further into the well, but when the horizontal pipe is filled, it can also be forced out through the sinks or bathtubs of the apartments on the lower floors, saturating their air with accompanying aromas;
2. Behind the flow front, a vacuum is formed in the riser. Normally, air is sucked in through a ventilation outlet - a fan pipe led to the roof. However, it is worth freezing it in the winter cold - and the vacuum will suck water out of the device with a minimum level of water seal, opening the way for smells.

Revisions

In the case of sewers, the word "revision" is not related to the reconciliation of warehouse balances: this is the name of the hatch for cleaning the riser. It is mounted on the extreme floors of the house, and in five-story and higher buildings - on every third floor. The revision device is determined by the material:

• The cast iron riser is supplied with a flat cover with a rubber gasket, which is bolted to the cast-iron ears of the shaped part;

• The plastic revision is supplied with a screw cap.

Problems and Solutions

And now let's move on to the information that is of the greatest value to most readers - to a description of the typical problems of intra-apartment sewerage and ways to solve them. I will structure this section of the article as a dialogue, asking and answering questions.

Riser

How can you tell if a sewer line is clogged?

If drains enter your bathtub and toilet even when the taps are closed, this is a sure sign that the blockage is outside your apartment, down the riser.

On the ground floor, the same picture can be given by a clogged bed or outlet to the well. You can localize the blockage by sequentially opening the tees and revisions closest to your riser.

What to do in case of blockage of the riser?

The scheme requires several comments.

• You can clean the blockage of the riser not only from above, but also from below. In particular, there are usually revisions on the risers in the basement, under the ceiling of the first floor. However, when cleaning from the bottom up, you will have to dodge the stream of sewage that hit from the revision, which is far from always possible;
• The wire continues to rotate after clearing the blockage so that the cause of the blockage does not come off the hook. As a rule, it turns out to be a floor rag missed in the toilet bowl;
• If the blockage is not broken through with wire, it is often possible to clean the riser with an ordinary crowbar lowered from the roof on a rope;
• Finally, in the most advanced cases, the riser is opened directly at the site of the blockage (it can be determined by measuring a distance from the revision equal to the length of the wire entering the riser). A section of the pipe is cut out by a grinder; in the case of plastic, you can get by with an ordinary garden saw.

How to replace a damaged section of the riser?

Replacement is required after opening the riser with complex blockages and with the destruction of cast-iron couplings or pipe sockets.

It runs like this:

There are nuances here too.

• If the nearest socket is much lower than the damaged section of the riser, a sewer sleeve of the appropriate diameter is simply put on the down pipe. Further installation is completely identical to that described above;
• It is advisable to fix both the installed pipe and the compensator with clamps (preferably under the neck). Fixing to prevent spontaneous disassembly of the connection;

• When cutting pipes to size, be sure to deburr inside. They will cling to all kinds of garbage, creating blockages;
• Outside of the pipe, it is desirable to chamfer. It will simplify the assembly of socket connections;
• For cutting pipes to size, it is most convenient to use a grinder. The cut is clean and precise. The disk can be both on a stone, and on metal.

How to fix a riser leak before it is repaired?

Put on a bandage. Here's how to properly bandage the riser:

1. On a damaged socket, a crack in a pipe or other defect, several turns of bandage rubber or a bicycle chamber cut along the length are superimposed;
2. From above, the rubber is pulled together with a tie-wire clamp.

How is the soundproofing of sewer pipes in the apartment?

In the assortment of many manufacturers there are so-called silent pipes and fittings. They are distinguished by thick walls (3.4 mm versus 2.7 mm for conventional PVC), a multilayer structure and a layer of increased density polymer with the addition of mineral filler. Silent sewerage is used to replace the riser between floors.

Noise reduction can be achieved without a complete replacement of the riser. Here is a list of possible measures:

• Fixing the pipe with clamps with a step of no more than 50 cm using gaskets made of microporous rubber;

• Soundproofing roll insulation or mineral wool;

• Building around sewer riser boxes of or wall panels.

Comb

How to dismantle an old cast-iron sewer?

Dismantling begins with the fitting farthest from the tee or cross (as a rule, this is a branch under kitchen sink). The seal of the socket is chipped in a circle with a hammer and a strong wide screwdriver; then the remains of the cable are removed with the same screwdriver. After cleaning the socket, the outlet rotates around its own axis and is pulled out of the neck with rotational movements.

The following elements of the comb are parsed similarly. Often, to dismantle the pipe between the bathroom and the kitchen, it is necessary to break the seal of the sewer in the partition.

The socket of the tee or cross, after removing the last section of the comb, is cleaned of the remnants of the seal, rust and paint. For connection with a plastic comb into it on silicone sealant the sealing cuff is pressed in - an adapter.

How to fix a leak in the socket of a cast-iron comb?

1. Clean the socket from the old seal;
2. Wind three or four turns of cable or, much better, a graphite gland on the pipe;
3. Seal the socket seal with a chasing or a wide screwdriver and a hammer;

To get close to back side pipes, you will have to cut down part of the wall with a chisel.

1. Coat the socket with a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1: 1 or pure cement, diluted to the consistency of thick sour cream.

As a temporary solution, you can use the bandage already familiar to us from a bicycle tube or rubber bandage.

How to install a sewer in an apartment with your own hands?

It starts from the stand. As a rule, a tee with a size of 110x110x50 mm is mounted first for connecting a toilet bowl and a thin comb. A sealing rubber cuff is used to connect to the cast-iron fitting; the connection is additionally sealed with silicone.

A comb with a diameter of 50 mm is assembled from short socket pipes, tees and angles. Here are some assembly guidelines:

• Outlets for washbasin, washing machine and dishwasher, the sink is formed by straight tees and bends with an angle of 90 degrees. The bath is connected by an oblique tee with a branch directed in the direction of the drains. It will allow you to avoid sewer backwater during salvo discharge from the bath;

The bath piping is connected with an oblique tee, the washbasin is connected with a straight one.

• The comb is mounted with a constant slope of 3.5 cm per linear meter;

• If you collect socket connections on silicone sealant, do not save on it: cheap compounds have poor adhesion to smooth plastic. I use Moment or Ceresit sealants: they adhere perfectly even to polyethylene, not to mention the rougher PVC.

How to lay a comb without sagging pipes and counterslopes? It is enough to fasten the pipes in increments of half a meter or less. It is desirable to place clamps or clips on the sockets: the fastening will again exclude spontaneous disconnection of the joints.

For large wall irregularities, instead of clamps, you can use pieces of reinforcement 8 mm thick driven into pre-drilled holes with ends bent up.

How to clear clogged comb?

Typical causes inside the apartment are sand and grease from plates settling in sewer pipes, as well as wool and hair on the bars of bathtubs and showers.

• The outlets are cleaned with a knitting needle or a thin cable fed through the grate. In the most neglected cases, the release is completely disassembled and cleaned over the trash can;

• Sand and grease plugs are cleaned with a cable through the nearest socket, after which hot water opens for half an hour. It will wash away the remnants of fat and carry away all suspensions.

Fat dissolves effectively at water temperatures above 50C. According to my observations, the peak of sewage blockages occurs in the summer, when the hot water supply cools down to 40C and below.

Water seals

What to do with the constant failure of water seals?

In winter - go to the roof with a bucket hot water and pour it into the ventilation outlet of your sewer riser. Boiling water will melt the frost and restore normal ventilation.

If the smells appeared in the summer, you will have to visit the top floor of your riser. Often tenants top floors completely dismantle the unnecessary, in their opinion, riser above the tee. Unauthorized redevelopment of general engineering communications is recorded by representatives of the service organization; then, on the basis of the act, residents are issued an order to restore the original configuration of the riser.

Conclusion

I hope that my experience will help the dear reader in solving everyday everyday problems. As usual, additional materials will be offered by the video in this article. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

July 21, 2016

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