Do I need an armopoyas. Pouring armopoyas on aerated concrete

Armopoyas is metal structure, made by hand from fittings. Its purpose is to increase the strength of load-bearing walls and maintain integrity under impact natural conditions and during ground movement. When building a house, several such belts are mounted. The formwork for the armopoyas is laid in order to create load-bearing walls or floors. It is poured with concrete until it solidifies.

The advantage of this formwork is ease of installation, the minimum amount necessary materials and tools, low financial costs and ease of dismantling. For stripping, you will need to remove the fasteners and remove the boards after the concrete has set. In the future, they can be reassembled and formwork made for another structure.

The principle of creating a structure for an armored belt does not differ from the technology of formwork for a foundation or window openings.

Construction for a house made of aerated concrete

According to the scheme described above, you can make do-it-yourself formwork for any type of house. The device is suitable for bricks, aerated concrete, concrete. Armopoyas promotes high-quality connection of the roof to the building frame. In a house made of aerated concrete, it is fastened using additional blocks or formwork. The first option is easier, but expensive. It is cheaper to make a wooden structure with your own hands. The instruction helps to build it correctly:

Diagram of the section of the armopoyas in the formwork for the gas block

Boards with a height of 30 cm are drilled to the aerated concrete wall.
Attach screeds every 50-70 cm to increase the strength of the structure and prevent deformation under the influence of heavy concrete.
Lay reinforcement with a diameter of 8 to 12 mm inside. The choice depends on the location of the house. If the walls will be negatively impacted environment, then rods with a maximum diameter will do. In regions with calm seismic conditions, you can save on fittings by choosing inexpensive models with a minimum diameter.
Place the reinforcement on special sprockets, which creates an active bottom layer on aerated concrete blocks.
Tie the rods with wire.
Pour concrete, compact and level the layer.

If the formwork is installed for the purpose of fastening the roof, then before pouring the concrete, studs are installed to fasten the floors. They can be of any length, but it is more convenient to work with specimens less than 1 meter long.

Experts will help you to make the right formwork for an armored belt for a house made of aerated concrete in case of difficulties. Before work, it is recommended to make calculations to prevent mistakes and purchase the right amount building materials.

Nuances when working with a wooden structure

Formwork made of wooden planks requires a competent approach. If the structure is incorrectly installed, there is a risk of breakage and rupture of the boards under the influence of concrete mortar. To do the work with your own hands correctly, you need to take into account several nuances:

the formwork device consists of boards, which must be fastened with careful control over the verticality and horizontalness of the structure;
the surface of the boards in contact with concrete is cleaned and leveled;
for reuse elements, easy dismantling of the structure and prevention of concrete leakage. inside upholstered with foil;
if you soak the boards with used oil or hydrophobic grease, it will be much easier to do it yourself with your own hands;
multiple use of boards is not allowed. If they were exposed to atmospheric precipitation, they will most likely be destroyed when reused;
a non-removable structure is rarely made, more often it is assembled from expanded polystyrene blocks, with already built-in fittings. This is laid by stringing elements on rods;
before work, it is worth making a choice between the initial manufacture of the armopoyas and the formwork. In some cases, it is easier to lay the reinforcement on aerated concrete blocks, and then proceed to the collection of the wooden structure.

The formwork for the reinforcement frame is made independently without the use of expensive materials and special equipment. But only competently organized and carried out work guarantees the creation of a reliable and durable structure. If difficulties arise during the assembly process, it is recommended to seek professional advice to prevent serious mistakes that can lead to the destruction of the structure.

Reinforcing belt - an obligatory contour of rigidity, necessary for the building to be really strong and durable. It does not allow the "accumulation" of loads in one or another part of the supporting structures, but evenly distributes them. Thanks to him, the shrinkage of the new house, heaving of soil and others external factors pass for walls without consequences - that is, without cracks.

Armopoyas made of bricks is a small solid masonry, reinforced with longitudinal metal rods or mesh. Of course, this is not a full-fledged monolith, but in many cases such simple solution turns out to be quite enough. The ability of the armopoyas to equalize the loads comes in handy if the main material of the walls is not resistant to deformation. Products like aerated concrete, even with good compressive strength, practically do not work in bending. Uneven application of force will inevitably lead to cracking "alive".

Reinforcement belt solves this problem by taking the main load on itself, and not allowing light walls shift relative to each other when exposed to multidirectional or unequal in magnitude efforts. It is also allowed to use bricks instead of the more expensive concrete monolith for reinforcing small outbuildings and low-rise buildings. It will successfully withstand unfavorable external conditions (strong wind loads, subsidence or uneven heaving of the soil), but at the same time it is much easier to make it with your own hands - without haste and the need to process a decent amount of solution at a time.

Another of the functions that a reinforced belt can perform is to attach other elements of the building to the box on an anchor, if wall material he himself is not able to keep them. This is a common disadvantage of all aerated concrete and expanded clay blocks. Traditional methods even a Mauerlat beam cannot be sewn to them without further destruction of the walls. So what to do dividing brickwork in any case, you have to.

A double reinforcing belt, laid under the sole and on the upper cut, shows itself well columnar foundation... In this case, seasonal ground movements will not be able to "play" with supports, because they will actually turn into a single truss, rigidly fixed with two ligaments.

The main types of unloading belts

Depending on the location of the armopoyas, it can have different names and take on certain functions:

Grillage - fits between the columnar or pile base of the house and the walls. However, they do not build it from bricks - it is too important a site.
The plinth is already the second level of unloading and reinforcement, which is used in the construction of houses on a foundation of concrete blocks. It provides the base with greater rigidity on moving soils and is also made of reinforced concrete. Although a fairly common option is brickwork, which performs the functions permanent formwork for subsequent filling.
Unloading is an intermediate armored belt under the floor slabs, which not only takes on their weight, but also ensures the rigidity of the building above one floor at each level. When building from lightweight concrete blocks, you cannot do without it, and here the best way is exactly the brick.
Support under the Mauerlat - required element houses made of aerated concrete or other porous blocks, which poorly perceive point and multidirectional loads. In addition, the fastening of the timber itself with the help of pins in such walls is unreliable even when using chemical anchoring. Here, a reinforced belt for walls made of aerated concrete turns into a kind of bundle between the blocks to which it is connected with mortar and the roof truss, reinforced through a Mauerlat beam.

Features of laying on aerated concrete

As a rule, a brick belt is made 4-7 rows high and in the width of the wall to be reinforced. Reinforcement must be performed in each horizontal seam using steel mesh with a cell of 3-4 cm or rigid wire with a thickness of at least 5 mm. Installation is carried out in the same way as in the case of ordinary walls brick:

with an offset of the seams in 1/3 of the length;
with a bonded dressing in every third row.

If the armopoyas for aerated concrete made of bricks serves as a support for the Mauerlat, vertical pins can be immediately bricked up in the masonry - metal threaded rods with a diameter of 12-16 mm. They are installed in increments of 1-1.5 m, and the depth of their embedding will depend on the thickness of the timber - it should be twice as long as the free end for mounting the Mauerlat. However, many builders advise to immediately embed the cuttings to the entire height of the armopoyas.

After the mortar has set, roofing material or two layers of roofing felts are spread on the surface of the masonry. This is a waterproofing that will protect the timber itself and the brick superstructure from the accumulation of condensing moisture. Further, the Mauerlat is outlined and drilled at the desired points, strung on the studs and fixed on the reinforcement belt with nuts for wide washers.

Since ceramics have a higher thermal conductivity than the main wall material, it turns into a kind of cold bridge (although monolithic reinforced concrete in this case manifests itself even worse). So that during the further operation of the building in winter period there were no problems, you can try to "close" the contour of cellular blocks in parallel with the laying of bricks. To do this, from the side of the premises, a thin partition is removed from the GB, as if hiding the armopoyas inside aerated concrete wall... If a gap has formed between the surfaces, experts recommend additionally insulating it.

Stages of erecting a belt for overlap

If the rigid contour under the roof acts as a relief and reliable support for a Mauerlat bar, it is enough to lay it around the perimeter of the box at home. However, the use of slabs for interfloor or attic floors will force you to close the rows of bricks and the middle load-bearing wall... Here, aerated concrete can also experience loads, so a rigid layer for its reinforcement is simply necessary.

No matter how light the floor slabs are, support them directly on the cellular or expanded clay concrete blocks it is forbidden. The masonry will be able to support their weight, but when the direction of the applied force changes, it will begin to collapse. In this case, the belt serves as a kind of buffer that distributes the pressure of the slab over the entire area of the walls, preventing pushing through supporting structure... Give up a powerful layer of solid brick it is possible only when the floor is made of wood - here one or two blocks are used for the underlayment under the beams.

Otherwise, the armopoyas under hollow core slabs is built according to all the rules. The main stages of work:

The first row is planted with a solution directly on aerated concrete. If the thickness of the main wall is standard (30 cm), the laying is done in two bricks, filling the gaps with "checkers".
Installation of reinforcing mesh along the entire belt line.
Laying the second row in the same way, followed by reinforcement.
The third row of bricks is bonded. Here you need to focus on the inner plane of the wall. The gap remaining outside is filled with either quarters or pieces of mineral wool, if an insulated ventilated facade is being erected at the same time.

Under the upper row of aerated concrete, on which the belt is placed under the floor slabs, reinforcement must be laid in the grooves. This will add rigidity to the entire structure and provide additional protection against cracks for the walls. Otherwise, once they appear, they will crawl lower.

According to the above diagram, the armopoyas is laid out to the entire required height, after which you can fearlessly mount floor slabs on it. Anchoring is carried out in the standard way for brick walls - using L-shaped metal brackets. Fasteners for corrosion protection are covered with a layer of cement mortar.

Aerated concrete houses are very popular - the advantages of this building material a bunch of. But one of them, which greatly simplifies construction and installation work, is large dimensions aerated concrete block - has and reverse side medals. Buildings built from such large blocks are very sensitive to foundation subsidence, while not only the vertical seams are destroyed, but the blocks themselves can break, since aerated concrete does not like tensile and bending deformations.

To deal with this problem, a special reinforced concrete structure is called upon - a reinforced belt (armored belt). It strengthens the walls and smoothes out the loads that arise from uneven settlement of the foundation. If the walls aerated concrete house are composed of large building elements, which are fastened with thin seams from glue or mortar, then the armopoyas structure includes monolithic concrete and reinforcing reinforcement laid transversely and longitudinally. At the same time, concrete perfectly withstands compression, and the reinforcing components perfectly resist stretching, therefore, such a structure, without deforming at all, can withstand very heavy loads. Therefore, a wall erected on a reinforced belt is exposed to very little impact and does not collapse, since the reinforced concrete structure takes on all the main loads.

Because aerated concrete blocks are placed on a very thin bonding layer, then it is impossible to place reinforcement in it. Therefore, in this case, the armopoyas is performed as a separate structural unit, which is a monolithic part of the wall. In this case, there arises serious problem- due to the large difference in heat transfer between concrete and aerated concrete block, the armopoyas becomes a temperature bridge (a section with a low thermal resistance), therefore, external thermal insulation reinforced belt... Most often, insulation is made mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam. For effective thermal protection minimum thickness the insulating layer should be 10 cm, therefore, the armopoyas should be narrower outer wall by this amount.

At least 2 armored belts must be built into the wall of an aerated concrete house - in front of the first vertical row, on the upper perimeter of the foundation, and above the last vertical row on which the floor is being erected. However, if a monolithic is used as the foundation of the house reinforced concrete slab, then you can do without the lower armored belt. In addition, it is recommended to arrange reinforced belts under each interfloor overlap... The vertical dimension of the armopoyas depends on the characteristics of the soil in which the foundation is made, and on design features Houses. In practice, a box-shaped structure is most often used, that is, the width of the armored belt is taken equal to its height, but it should be borne in mind that a higher armored belt is able to withstand large deforming loads.

Reinforced belt is made of quality concrete(grade not lower than M-200) and metal rods with an area cross section not less than 12 mm. A frame is assembled from the rods, which is knitted in the transverse direction with reinforcement with a cross-sectional area of 4-6 mm. The frame is formed from 2 rows of rods, which are spaced 10-15 cm in height. The rods are located in the same plane at a distance of about 10 cm from each other. They are connected to each other in length with a metal wire and are stacked with an overlap of about 15 cm. With the same wire, the rods are connected to the transverse reinforcement.

Reinforcement cage is placed in the formwork, but not close, but with a small gap (3-5 cm) between the rods and the inner surface of the formwork. Clearance is required to create external fill concrete rods. Then, outside the frame is laid insulation material, they begin to pour into the formwork concrete mortar... In the process of pouring, the concrete is carefully compacted. If necessary, additional parts can be installed in the armopoyas, for example, for fastening the roof. After the completion of the pouring, the surface of the structure must be leveled with a trowel.

The concrete is allowed to stand for 3-4 days, so that it regains its initial strength, after which you can continue laying the walls. After 7-10 days, the formwork can be disassembled. In the process of maturation, concrete must be protected from the effects of external climatic factors - in winter it is warmed with an insulating material, and in hot weather it is poured with water and covered with polyethylene.
Competent installation of the reinforced belt will give the walls additional strength and increase the service life of the house several times.

Photo-instructions for pouring armopoyas on aerated concrete

We make the formwork.

For the formwork, we make a pie from the street: aerated concrete blocks 10 cm, insulation 3-5 cm, a place for an armopoyas, removable formwork from boards or plywood. We fasten boards and plywood with long wood screws. We arrange studs of 12 diameters in increments of each meter. For the frame, we use four rows of reinforcement with a diameter of 10.

For knitting reinforcement we use knitting wire, plastic clamps in hard-to-reach places and squares of smooth wire with a diameter of 6

These elements can be bent by hand, for example, on such a device from a corner and a pipe

We fill the armopoyas manually or with a concrete pump. We bayonet with reinforcement or vibrate with a vibrator. We wrap the studs with molar tape before pouring.

We cover the armopoyas with a film

Removing the formwork in a few days

Mauerlat is wooden structure, through which the roof is attached to the walls of the house and on which the roof rafter system is attached. Usually it is a coniferous timber. The timber must be at least second grade. Pine or larch is used for manufacturing.

The dimensions of the timber can be: 150x150mm .; 150x100mm .; 80x180mm .; 100x100 mm .; 200x200 mm.

Before fixing the wooden beam of the Mauerlat, it must be impregnated with an antiseptic. This will help prevent possible rotting of the wood on the cinder block.

If you choose wood yourself, you need to take into account the knowledge passed from generation to generation - a tree felled in winter does not rot longer, and felled at the end of the month is better preserved than felled at the beginning of the month.

Wall mounting methods:

fastening with anchor bolts;
fastening with wire;
fastening with pins.

Fastening to cinder block wall

Fastening with anchor bolts

When building a house from bricks or cinder blocks, it is better to use the most reliable fastening Mauerlat - with the help of anchor bolts fixed in the armored belt.
Armopoyas is a homemade reinforced concrete structure. It consists of a frame made of metal reinforcement and wire. This frame is immersed in a mixture of cement, sand and gravel. In other words, an armored belt is a reinforced concrete structure.

Here, doubts may arise about the need to create an armored belt if the house is built from cinder blocks, which, by themselves, create enough solid construction... The thing is that the Mauerlat is attached to the walls of the building with anchor bolts, and the fastening of anchor bolts to blocks is strictly prohibited. This can lead to cracking and breaking even the cinder block.

Armopoyas will increase the resistance of the building structure to the existing deforming loads: wind, house shrinkage, seasonal fluctuations in the foundation, point loads from slabs or beams. When pouring an armored belt, you need to know that it is poured as a whole. It shouldn't have breaks.

Whether the Mauerlat will be able to fulfill its load-bearing function depends on how the armo-belt to which it is attached is correctly executed. The strength of the armopoyas depends on how the formwork was installed during its creation.

Fastening the Mauerlat can be started after removing the formwork, when the concrete is completely frozen - this means 4 or 5 days after pouring the concrete.

It is necessary to decide in advance how many anchors you will install to attach the Mauerlat to the cinder block walls. The number of anchors should not be less than the number of rafters that will be attached to the Mauerlat. Do not forget that the location of the anchor bolts should not coincide with the location rafter legs... This will reduce the rigidity of the structure. It is desirable that the anchors are located in the middle between the rafter bars.

It is very difficult to brick up anchor bolts into concrete so that they stand strictly vertically and at the same distance from each other. To do this, it is necessary to mark in advance the distance between the anchors, taking into account the location of the rafters and the fact that the anchors should be located at a distance of 0.8 to 1 meter. Metal pins - should protrude at least 20 cm above the concrete surface.

Some builders attach anchors to pieces of reinforcement that protrude from the bolt locations. Fastening takes place by welding.

In order to drill holes in the Mauerlat exactly in the place where the anchor will be located, you can use two methods:

Take the board, fasten it to the extreme anchors and mark the location of the future holes. Then transfer this markup to the Mauerlat;
Place the Mauerlat over the anchors and hit it with a sledgehammer. You will get a marking for drilling holes. They should be slightly less than the bolt diameter.

Before fixing the Mauerlat to the wall, you need to insulate concrete surface from a wooden bar. For this insulation, two layers of roofing material, polyethylene or other waterproofing material are used. The waterproofing material must be intact. The Mauerlat is put on the bolts and pressed as tightly as possible against the wall.

Fastening with wire

For this pinning method, use steel wire with a section from 4 to 6 mm. It is twisted several times and laid in the masonry of the wall at a distance of one cinder block from the level of the Mauerlat location. The wire can be fixed to the armapost reinforcement - this will strengthen the strength of the connection between the wall and wooden beams... The length of the wire should be sufficient to pass through the holes in the bar, or to completely wrap it around and to tie the ends. When using a wire, two holes are drilled opposite each attachment at a height of 25 to 30 cm. The wire is threaded through these holes, tightened and fixed, thereby pressing the Mauerlat to the wall.

Fastening with studs

Fastening the Mauerlat with construction studs is possible only if the house under construction is small. Metal studs are L-shaped hardware, which are embedded in the masonry of the wall. The hairpin should be immersed in the wall by 45 cm and protrude above the wall and above the Mauerlat strung on it by 30 cm. The hairpin does not need to be embedded in the wall masonry. It can, like an anchor, be poured into concrete during the construction of an armored belt. This will give the mount more strength. Stud threads must be clean.

After erecting the walls of a house from piece materials (bricks or blocks), the next important operation is usually the pouring of a reinforced belt. This item is of particular importance overall design acquires during the construction of houses from gas silicate blocks - a similar upper strapping is needed both to stiffen the entire "box", and to fasten the Mauerlat, that is, as a kind of " strip foundation»For the subsequent installation of the roof.

It happens that the presenters self-construction the owners of the plots, trying to save money on everything, are looking for ways to do without the armopoyas, what technologies are there for attaching the Mauerlat directly to the block or brickwork. And although, yes, such methods exist in theory, it is very difficult to call them absolutely reliable. Therefore - good advice: never give up a reinforced belt, especially since in some cases it will not require too much financial and labor costs.

And in order to assess the scale of the work to be done, use the calculator for the amount of concrete for pouring the armopoyas - it will not only show the amount of solution, but also give a "layout" according to the initial ingredients for its self-preparation.

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Some explanations for the calculations will be given below.