How the block is stacked. How to lay aerated concrete blocks correctly: materials, tools, step-by-step guide

The process of laying blocks on the foundation is accompanied by the 2 most difficult steps - laying the primary row and creating the ceiling and floor slabs. Reinforcement with a steel frame may sometimes be required.

Building block elements are a relatively new material that has managed to squeeze out brick and wood.

This building material is characterized by the following advantages: strength, heat resistance, economy and ease of installation.

Foundation blocks are suitable for construction in any climate and soil. You can build structures for various purposes.

The limit temperature range is very wide from +50 to -70 ° C. With this arrangement, the result is a durable and unpretentious structure.

The procedure for preparing for laying

Preparatory work:

A breakdown of the axes of the foundation is made, with their transfer to the base already prepared for its construction. The tension of the axial and the projection of the points of their intersection with the help of plumb lines is done along the cast-off to the bottom of the dug hole;
The parameters of the foundation are measured from projected points and fixed with metal stakes. The cord stretched between them is located 2-3 mm from the edge of the foundation;

The base is a sand cushion. The bottom of the pit is leveled according to the design marks;
With sandy soil, it is possible to install blocks directly on the base, the surface of which is leveled. For other soils, it will be necessary to create an air cushion 5-10 cm thick;
The surface of the base should not be loosened with dimensions 20-30 cm larger than the foundation from all its sides;

In the presence of a basement and the construction of a structure on dry and not heaving soil, block elements are laid on a sand base. In this case, the foundation will be a little buried, not a strip type;
The bearing capacity of the foundation is increased by FL pillows, which will reduce the number of FBS blocks. FL expands the sole of the foundation.

Required materials and tools for the production of masonry:

Sand;
Block elements;
Bars made of wood 50 * 100;
Concrete mixer and vibration rammer;
Tanks for water and solution;
Shovel and trowel;
Rail, building level.

Masonry rules

Before placing the blocks on the base of the foundation, it is important to clear and dry the debris. The installation of block elements begins from the places of greatest load: at the corners of the future structure and at the intersection of wall structures.

After the installation of the lighthouse block elements along their edge, the mooring is tensioned to locate the intermediate blocks. During the laying process, the mooring will rise.

Watch the video to familiarize yourself with the procedure for laying elements on the foundation:

The final position of the blocks is determined by a plumb line along the axial risks on top of the structure. The plumb line is lowered from the wires stretched on the wire. Deviations are eliminated with a crowbar. The evenness of the upper edge of the lighthouse block elements is determined by the level, and other elements - along the berth.

The block with a deflection is lifted by a crane. After re-leveling the base underneath, the block is re-laid on cement mortar 2 cm. The height of the installation is optimally 4-5 rows.

When laying, the vertical seams are bandaged with mortar. The depth of the masonry is not less than the block height. The surface of the block elements must be wetted.

Some subtleties of work

If the length of the wall structures is not a multiple of the length of the block elements, the appearance of gaps is guaranteed, filled with additional blocks or seals. The need for space for pipelines and communications is taken into account.

To remove excess mortar from horizontal seams, a trowel is used. If there is a lack of solution, it is added and compacted, thus filling all the seams of the masonry and embroidering them on both sides. The difference between the width of the walls of the foundation and the walls of the structure is up to 13 cm.

Stages of work:

Having determined the location of the corners, the blocks are stacked starting from the corner located at the minimum distance from the highest point of the foundation;
A moisture-resistant cement mortar with sand is applied along the contour of the future foundation to level the surface. Next, the insulator is laid to protect it from moisture;

A solution is thinly applied to the insulator in place of the first block, on top of which the first block element is laid and the position of which is checked vertically and horizontally, leveling it with a mallet;
The masonry of the wall row continues from the first block element, filling in the space between the corners. Horizontality is controlled by the hydraulic level, and the outer boundaries are controlled by the intersection of markings;

Before laying the 2nd row, do not forget about bandaging the lower vertical seams with a whole upper block element. The thickness of the fastening seams should be minimized for the heat resistance of the structure;
Before laying the 4th row, a pause is made to arrange horizontal reinforcement. In the upper part of the 3rd row, 1-2 grooves are cut for laying metal rods with a diameter of 6-8 mm. This operation is repeated between the 7th and 8th rows, 11th and 12th rows and beyond.

The problem of how to lay blocks on the foundation may be places for future doorways, ceiling and floor ceilings. The complexity of arranging these structures is the need for additional reinforcement in the location of future door and window structures.

The fact is that the structure of the block is fragile and cannot withstand the entire weight of the reinforced concrete floor over the places for windows or doors. Arranging the frame, its constituent elements are laid out from bricks.

The only difficulties arise in the process of leveling the horizontal upper edges of the reinforced concrete ceiling and the last block row. The same method is used to solve the difficulties of arranging the ceiling between the floors of the structure.

Watch the video to see how the blocks are laid:

On the uppermost surface of the last block row, a layer of dense building material, for example, brick, is installed, and reinforced concrete slabs are laid on top.

Synthetic building material is in great demand: it provides optimal thermal insulation, has a low dead weight, is durable and easy to use. Studying the recommendations on how to lay aerated concrete blocks, you need to pay special attention to the technology of work and the specifics of binders.

Experts, explaining how to lay aerated concrete, recommend taking the time to find the most convenient equipment:

a carriage with a dispenser allows for uniform application of binders;
mallet - a balanced rubber hammer that facilitates the process of tamping blocks;
a small saw, a cutter is needed to adjust the material to size;
the sanding board solves the problem of eliminating defects in the finished surface;
the trowel prevents the spreading of the mortar when laying the wall;
the corner secures the laid elements;
the plane is used to correct and level the shape of the blocks;
groove cutter - a tool with which grooves are created;
the mixer will make it easier to mix the solution;
cord as a horizontal reference and building level.

You will also need a container in which the assembly solution will be diluted.

Criteria for choosing aerated concrete

When studying products from different manufacturers, you should focus on the following indicators:

density - the higher it is, the stronger the material and the stronger its soundproofing properties;
thermal conductivity - the degree of heat retention in the structure depends on it, manufacturers, when calculating this characteristic, take into account heterogeneous conditions;
strength;
vapor permeability;
soundproofing.

The optimal sizes of products vary from project to project, but it is better to buy elements with grips - they facilitate movement and installation.

Mortar preparation: what you need to pay attention to

Consumption intensity is a key indicator of the choice of the "connecting link", therefore, when drawing up a construction estimate, it is necessary to compare the technical indicators of adhesive and cement compositions. Newcomers believe that cement mortar is more economical: this opinion is formed as a result of a banal comparison of the estimated number of blocks that are planned to be used and the cost of a pack of material.

Builders emphasize that the adhesive composition will need 30-70% less than cement. Note: in the first case, the layer thickness during laying varies within 0.3-0.5 cm, while in the second - at least 0.8-2 cm.

If the first row is made of blocks that are not equipped with grooves, you will need a standard cement-lime mixture for fixing - this measure will minimize capillary moisture.

Even if glue is a priority, the cement composition will be needed later to create bridges.

Glue

The proportions of dry part and water are indicated on the label, usually 1 standard bag is diluted with 5 liters of liquid, the optimal consistency is thick sour cream. The thoroughly mixed substance is allowed to brew for 15 minutes, then it is applied to slightly moistened blocks. Leveling should be done within 10 minutes, after the composition becomes too viscous, it dries completely in 6 hours.

For 1 sq. m of the wall will need, on average, 25 kg of glue. It is advisable to use the finished binder within 4 hours, stirring occasionally to prevent delamination.

Cement

The ratio of cement and sand is 3: 1, in order to increase the strength and resistance to temperature changes, it is worth adding plasticizers and clay to the composition.

After the introduction of water in the proportions indicated by the manufacturer of the dry part, the substance is mixed with a mixer and used as soon as possible. That is, it is advisable to prepare the cement slurry in small portions.

How to lay aerated concrete blocks: step by step instructions

To maximize the strength of the masonry, the preliminary stage should be carefully worked out:

Prepare a solution.
Make sure that the foundation is strictly horizontal in all areas.
Protect the foundation from moisture contact with bitumen mastic

In some cases, it is permissible to use roofing material for waterproofing, although it is less effective.

Wall laying technology

Knowing how to properly lay aerated concrete blocks, it is easy to create a solid, even surface. The first element must be installed (laid) in the corner, moving sequentially until the next "turn." The height of the corners must be identical, the maximum permissible deviation is 3 cm.

In order for the orientation cord to create a straight line, it must be pulled between the corner blocks with the obligatory intermediate beacons (the building level is an indispensable assistant). We put the second and subsequent rows so that a lateral displacement of 20-40 cm appears. Excess glue formed in the seam area must be removed. If you plan to build a complex configuration, you can fit the blocks using a hacksaw.

Rows, numbers of which are multiples of 5, and the space under the windows are reinforced without fail. It is permissible to lay gas blocks on glue only in a specific temperature range: not lower than -5 ° C and not higher than + 20-25 ° C. On hot days, the material is slightly moistened during operation, if precipitation is present, use protective awnings or film.

To create the zones of joining the walls and internal partitions, you will need a stainless steel bundle - it forms a seam that is fixed with nails. Experts recommend adding such a component to every even row of masonry.

After completion of construction, a natural shrinkage process takes place, which takes several months.

Reinforcement

Experts, explaining how to lay aerated concrete correctly, give 3 reinforcement goals:

Reinforcement of areas with weakened masonry - all types of openings.
Protection of the building around the perimeter - this measure is especially relevant, given the degree of ventilation and the inevitable temperature drops, shrinkage.
Vertical reinforcement combines the base and monolithic piping. This step is mandatory for construction in regions where soil displacement occurs, hurricanes often occur.

Steel wire is used to form the frame, usually in a single layer. The fittings, on the other hand, are placed parallel to each other. With the help of a chasing cutter, 2 grooves are created in the material, they are impregnated with water and filled ½ with glue, the fittings are placed in them. Its standard size is 8 mm. Next, the holes are filled to the brim with a binder.

Aerated concrete floor

A technology that explains how to put aerated concrete blocks on glue is often used to equip a warm floor.

Preliminary manipulations are the creation of a waterproofing layer using polyethylene film or more practical and stable polystyrene foam boards. The blocks are assembled on a concrete screed (their height should not exceed 20 cm), followed by the placement of pipes and a new screed layer, leveling and finishing with emery are performed.

Laying aerated concrete does not require much experience, the main thing is to follow the technology indicated by the manufacturer and stick to the beacons. As a result, a surface is formed with decent indicators of strength, heat and sound insulation.

Laying the first row of blocks is perhaps the most crucial step when laying blocks. For this reason, this stage should be approached in the most responsible way. Many novice builders involve specialists in laying the first row of blocks, which is a completely justified step. If you do not have a specialist in mind, then use the recommendations from this article.

So the laying of the walls begins. But not yet with a thin layer of mortar, since with the help of the first row it is necessary to simultaneously align all the irregularities of the foundation slab. And for this, an ordinary solution is mixed.

Before placing the first block, you need to mark the corners of the house. This requires a breakdown of the axles with stretched cords. At the intersection of the cords, you hang a plumb line, the tip of which accurately points every corner of the house. At this point, a nail is driven into the foundation slab. Tip: drill a small hole first. After you have marked all the corners, stretch the cords from nail to nail. These are the outer edges of the basement walls, which are then marked with chalk or pencil on the slab. The rule will work as a ruler. It is best to mark all the walls at once. A pallet with blocks is placed next to the future wall.

How do I lay blocks on an uneven slab?

Since a concrete slab is never completely level, the lowest row of blocks should be placed on the leveling layer of the mortar. Thus, an absolutely horizontal lining is obtained, which is necessary for laying walls with a thin layer of mortar.

The first aerated concrete block is placed in the corner closest to the highest point of the foundation slab. All other corner blocks are later aligned to this block. Where the foundation slab has its lowest point, the blocks are placed accordingly on the thickest layer of mortar. The highest point of the foundation slab is determined using a hose level or a level. A specialist should help you in this work. However, most suppliers of prefabricated blocks for homes do leveling and laying of the first blocks as a free service.

After the basement walls are marked, you know exactly where you will put the mortar. Use a moisture resistant cement mortar (group III mortar), which can be purchased in bags as a ready-to-use mixture. You should add only water to it. Advantage of the ready-made mixture: a homogeneous composition of the material is ensured. Consumption: an average of 15 kg of dry mix is needed per meter of mortar layer.

An insulating roofing layer is placed on the mortar layer. As an insulating layer from the dampness rising from below, roofing paper is placed on the first layer of mortar. Important: in corners and wherever joints cannot be avoided, the insulation strips should overlap by at least 10 cm. And the roofing should be wider than the wall. Now the mortar for the first block is applied to the roofing felt in the highest corner. In this case, the surface of the solution is not smoothed, but becomes, as it were, ribbed.

In this place, try to use the solution sparingly. All other blocks must be placed in a layer of mortar of the appropriate thickness. Too much mortar in the beginning may mean that you will have to lay all the other blocks on an unnecessarily thick layer of mortar. You now lay down the first corner block, which is leveled with a rubber mallet and a hose level. The outer corner should be exactly above the nail that was driven in before.

Note!

Reference: During midsummer, wet the foundation slab and blocks (underneath). Then the bundle will be even better.

As soon as the height of the corner blocks is leveled, the cords are pulled from one corner of the house to the other corner and the first row of the wall is laid. If you put blocks with sheer protrusions and grooves, then the joints can be made dry. Important: When laying the first row of blocks, think about all the drain and plumbing openings. Before laying the walls, the corners of the house are transferred using a plumb line from the center axes with stretched cords ... ... to the foundation slab and marked with nails.

Tip: Pre-drill the nail holes.

In conclusion, the walls of the house are drawn on the foundation slab. Pallets with blocks should stand in the immediate vicinity of future walls. A prefabricated house supplier assists in measuring the foundation slab. Now it’s gone. The concrete mixer mixes the mortar for the first row of blocks.

At the height of summer, the foundation slab should be wetted. This makes the bundle better. The first layer of the mortar is now applied. A mentor from a prefabricated house supply company also helps. On the first layer of the mortar, roofing paper is placed as an insulating layer against dampness.

A second layer of mortar is applied to the insulating layer, making it slightly ribbed. The first corner block is placed and leveled with a rubber mallet and a hose level. When laying the first row of blocks, take into account all drainage holes.

Video of laying the first row of blocks

Contacts:

Address: Commodity, 57-B, 121135, Moscow,

Phone: +7 971-129-61-42, Email: [email protected]

the laying of the first row of blocks is perhaps the most crucial stage when laying blocks. for this reason, this stage should be approached in the most responsible way. many novice builders are attracted to laying the first

This leveling option received this name in view of the fact that for leveling, beacons are initially laid and fixed on the floor - metal slats, according to the level of which the screed is leveled.

Laying the first row of blocks is perhaps the most crucial step when laying blocks. For this reason, this stage should be approached in the most responsible way. I attract many novice builders ...

the purpose of the chimney is not only to increase traction, but also to raise the gases as high as possible above the ground. the higher the chimney, the stronger the draft in the furnace. but I would say that strong traction in furnaces for housing and communal services is not

The starting row gets the most attention. The work is done carefully. The ease of laying the walls of the house and the quality of the entire finished structure depend on the evenness and horizontality of the laid first blocks.

Installation of the first row by a bricklayer team can take an entire day. And this is considered normal. The basis of the future building is formed here. The simplicity of the subsequent laying of the walls depends on the accuracy of its laying.

Foundation preparation

A feature of aerated concrete is not only maximum lightness, but also high levels of hygroscopicity. Any noticeable increase in the level of humidity provokes the loss of thermal insulation properties of the building material, therefore houses made of aerated concrete are necessarily erected on a plinth usually made of concrete or brick.

The main purpose of the plinth is to protect the walls from atmospheric precipitation, such as snow and rain, as well as from moisture that comes from the ground through capillary suction.

The height of the basement for a house made of aerated concrete is determined based on the depth of groundwater, the average amount and nature of precipitation. It should be above the average snow cover for the area.

So for the Moscow region, the average snow height reaches a maximum in February and averages 25-35 cm in open areas and 40-45 cm in protected areas. Fences, adjacent structures and vegetation can act as protection. Based on this, a 40 cm base will be sufficient.

More the height of the basement is influenced by the aesthetic appearance of the building, the number and height of steps, the design of the vents... As well as the presence or absence of basements and basements, the location of communications underground.

Attention!

Do not forget to perform shut-off waterproofing with any bitumen-based roll material. When using a less durable roofing material, I recommend laying it in 2 layers.

The guarantee of high-quality masonry will be the use of shut-off waterproofing, which will complement the standard waterproofing of the foundation foundation.

What to put the first row on?

If the base drop is more than 5 mm, which is quite common, then the usual one will not work. Here you will need to combine the masonry of the initial row with leveling the surface for the subsequent laying of blocks.

In this case, the installation of the starting row must be carried out exclusively for properly prepared, high-quality cement-sand masonry mortars... Since the base of the basement is not perfectly flat, with a tolerance for slight differences and roughness, the use of expensive glue will be an unacceptable luxury for laying on the foundation. In addition, the glue is more flexible, it is intended for thin-seam masonry.

It is recommended to use a standard proportion of cement and sand passed through a sieve in a ratio of 1: 3 for laying the initial row of blocks, with the addition of water until a mixture of relatively thick consistency is obtained.

A properly prepared solution will not only allow you to get the most reliable connection of aerated concrete to the base, but also help to correct all existing irregularities. It is also allowed to use ready-made, factory mixes made on the basis of cement and sand, supplemented with hydrophobic, water-retaining additives and plasticizers.

Preparation of the solution

The cement-sand mortar should have the most uniform consistency, therefore, for its preparation, it is advisable to use a concrete mixer, in which you need pour a bucket of water, fill a bucket of M500 cement and add three buckets of sifted sand.

Manual mixing of the mortar is also acceptable.

During the mixing process, add water in small portions, which will bring the mixture to the required consistency. It is recommended to add a water-retaining additive to the solution to prevent the rapid absorption of moisture into aerated concrete.

Cement mortars prepared for aerated concrete masonry must be used within a couple of hours from the moment of mixing.

Step by step masonry technology

At the first stage, you need check the heights and horizontality of the foundation... Differences up to 5 cm are allowed, since at such a thickness the solution does not shrink.

The rest of the cases are considered defective and require repair. Any not too pronounced irregularities must be cut or filled with a cement mixture. Very significant irregularities will require the installation of additional formwork, followed by pouring the surface with a concrete mixture with plasticizers, and further leveling. The height of the leveling layer should be about 30-50 mm. Laying can be done after the layer has dried.

In the next step shut-off waterproofing is being laid... The surface is covered with roll-up waterproofing with an overlap of material at the joints.

A waterproofing layer has been made, blocks are aligned in the corners according to a level or level, a lace is stretched in a horizontal position.

Masonry starts from the corners, and the highest point of the foundation serves as a reference point... It is at this point that the first block is set. Then blocks are placed in other corners. Installation of corner blocks with groove-ridge connection is carried out with ridges outward.

After placing the blocks in the corners, measure the heights again and write the thickness of the required mortar layer on each corner block with a pencil.

The correctness of the installation of corner aerated concrete blocks can be checked with a building level or an optical level. If necessary, the adjustment of the corner block elements is carried out with a special rubber hammer.

Attention!

Before installing the blocks on the mortar, measure all sides and diagonals again. In a rectangular building, opposite sides must be parallel and equal. Adjacent sides must be perpendicular, which is checked by measuring the diagonals.

Place the corner blocks on the mortar, referring to the thickness of the mortar written on each block. Place blocks exactly in level. Use an optical level to check the height of the corner of the block. If there is a mismatch, precipitate the block with a mallet, or add a solution.

After installing the corner blocks, the lace is pulled and the row is filled with gas blocks. By means of a cord, it is possible to facilitate the execution of strictly horizontal masonry.

Attention!

With a wall length of ten meters or more, a block is placed in the central part to prevent the cord from sagging.

Mortars for the installation of building gas blocks must be applied to the surface of the base using a trowel. The laying of the first row of gas silicate blocks is carried out on cement-sand mortars, and all subsequent rows are mounted exclusively on adhesives. In both cases, the side surfaces are coated with adhesives.

A rubber mallet is used to fit the blocks. The dimensions of the elements, if necessary, are adjusted with. Here you will need either a special power tool. In this case, the grouting of the cut is performed using a grater or planer on aerated concrete.

Before further installation, you need to wait until the solution has completely hardened, which will prevent the risk of deformation of the starting blocks by the weight of subsequent rows.

Useful video

This short story shows the main points to look out for when laying the first row.

Today, relatively inexpensive and reliable materials such as blocks from which walls and interior partitions are laid are increasingly used for construction. In this case, laying the walls is very simple, it does not require heavy construction equipment or complex technologies.

Is an artificial material that has numerous advantages:

light weight in comparison with many other materials used for construction;
excellent thermal insulation properties, that is, the need for additional expensive insulation is completely absent;
ease of installation, laying such blocks is much easier than using wood or concrete, and this reduces the time for building a house while maintaining its quality.

Block characteristics

Before moving on to the features of using building blocks for laying a wall, you need to determine exactly what they are. Today, many of their varieties are used, but, as a rule, these are expanded clay, gas silicate or foam concrete rectangular blocks with certain sizes. Such products are manufactured using technology that ensures their strength and reliability, excellent heat and sound insulation characteristics.

The most commonly used gas silicate blocks are a material that contains quartz sand, Portland cement, lime and ordinary water. Such blocks are processed under a pressure of ten to twelve bar, they are exposed to steam with a temperature of 190 degrees. All this guarantees high density, excellent performance properties.

Masonry options

We put blocks in one of two methods:

masonry can be carried out using ordinary cement mortar (the proportion should be one to four for cement and refined sand);
using special glue.

What kind of masonry is more profitable to use? There is no definite answer, but the use of an adhesive solution allows you to make warmer and higher-quality walls, since the thickness of the seam here turns out to be much less than when using cement. But there are also disadvantages here:

glue is more expensive than cement mortar;
it is necessary to lay the first row from the foundation only with the help of a cement-based solution.

The use of cement mortars is less expensive, but the layer thickness is not 1-3 mm, as for glue, but 6-10 mm. It is this great thickness that creates the so-called "cold bridges", that is, when finishing the wall surface from blocks, an additional insulating layer is required.

Wall laying technology

Building walls is not as difficult as it might seem, but it always requires a foundation. Before starting work, it is necessary to cover the concrete surface with a waterproofing layer, for example, plastic wrap or roofing material. Such material must be laid in several layers, after which a solution of cement and refined sand should be applied to it, the ratio of the ingredients for which should be one to four, respectively.

So, but before that, the bottom of each block should be slightly moistened so that the block itself does not absorb much water. Without this, the mortar used for blocks very quickly loses its bonding properties, that is, the masonry itself turns out to be of poor quality.

Work should be started from the highest angle, which is easy to determine with the help of a building level. All blocks must be aligned horizontally, the surface must be perfectly flat. This can be regulated using cement mortar or glue, which allows you to lay the blocks evenly and efficiently. The solution for this is laid in a layer of different thicknesses.

When laying, often the last block in a row does not fit in size, for this it is necessary to cut it with a hacksaw for metal.

Construction expanded clay blocks and others are very easy to process, they can be cut, drilled.

Attention:

when performing masonry, it is necessary to reinforce every fourth row of blocks with metal reinforcement. To do this, gouge the surface of a number of blocks, a rod with a diameter of up to 8 mm is placed in the resulting hole, which is filled with cement mortar;
when laying the reinforcement, it is necessary to ensure that the rod is completely immersed in the strobe, does not protrude above its surface.

Applying a layer of plaster

After the laying of blocks is over, it is necessary to completely clean the surface of dust, debris, mortar residues, smudges. After that, the wall must be carefully primed, for which special mixtures are used that have the property of deep penetration. This helps to prepare the block wall surface for further plastering. The third step is to install the fiberglass mesh, which should have a number of advantages such as high density, tensile strength, and tear.

Only after that, you can start plastering the surface of the blocks, carried out using special beacons. In this capacity, you can use ordinary guide strips, which are exposed along the wall surface. After that, the space between them is simply filled with a solution.

Plastering the surface is carried out in several layers or in one, but you need to pay attention to the thickness. If only one layer is to be applied, then its thickness must be at least 15 mm. If there are several layers, then their thickness will be from 8 to 9 mm. It is necessary to level the solution using a rail, removing all excess. After the plaster has dried, the surface is trowelled.

Attention:

when applying several layers of plaster to the surface of blocks, each should be thoroughly dried before proceeding to the next;
plastering the surface must be performed at an air temperature from five degrees Celsius to thirty, in which case the work will be performed efficiently.

Facade finishing

After the masonry is completed, the surface of the wall requires finishing work, which is not much different for walls made of other materials. Such walls are characterized by high thermal insulation properties, excellent noise protection, but their surface requires additional decorative finishing for both internal and external sides. The most common option is plastering, but this method is good for the facade, inside the house it is best to use materials for decoration such as ceramic tiles, plastic or wooden lining, etc.

Textured plaster can be applied to the masonry or ordinary wallpaper can be glued - it all depends on the wishes of the owner of the house. The technology of such finishing works is no different from other building materials, unless you need to arrange an additional layer of insulation or carry out serious work to level the wall (you only need to apply a layer of putty).

Today, it is more profitable to lay blocks in the construction of external and internal walls and interior partitions than using other materials. Gas silicate, foam concrete, not only very easy to install, but also differ in numerous positive properties, including heat insulation, soundproof. The masonry technology is simple, the blocks themselves are easy to stack, due to their size and shape, and their relatively low weight. Finishing work for walls made of blocks does not differ in any serious features, except that it is not required to carry out complex work on leveling, wall insulation.