Fence construction and design ideas. DIY wooden fence: making a beautiful wooden fence step by step Make a small fence

Making and installing a wooden fence with your own hands allows you not only to save effort and money, but also to logically complete the ensemble of site design. As a result, here, under the reliable protection of an attractive and solid fence, an atmosphere of true home calmness, warmth and comfort will immediately settle. But the construction of a fence made of wood - a very capricious material - requires thorough preparation. And it is best to start it with a fascinating acquaintance with a variety of constructive and design solutions. After all, after that it will not be difficult to make a choice.

Wood in the construction of fences: advantages and disadvantages

Wood is an inexpensive and convenient material for technical processing and decoration, which is traditionally used in the construction of fences for private territories.

Despite the availability of more durable and practical material solutions - euro shtaketnik, metal, corrugated board, brick or stone - the demand for wooden fences will always be high.

The reason for this is the list of tree advantages, which includes:

  • environmental friendliness;
  • unique decorative qualities;
  • a wide selection of textures and shades of wood species;
  • ease of processing;
  • ease of installation;
  • simple replacement of structural elements of the fence during operation;
  • low cost.

Wood is an environmentally friendly natural material that is perfectly combined with other building materials and is able to harmoniously fit into any solution for the design of the fenced area. For the construction of a wooden fence, one, maximum two pairs of working hands is quite enough and no special knowledge, skills and tools are required. It is noteworthy that wooden fences are much cheaper than brick or metal ones, and their construction takes much less time and effort. And most importantly: a wide variety of wood species, as well as design and decoration methods, open up the broadest scope for design ideas not only during construction, but also directly during the operation of the fence.

Along with the advantages, the tree has a number of disadvantages, which must be taken into account when choosing this material.

The disadvantages of wooden fences include:

  1. Fire hazard.
  2. Low resistance to climatic factors.
  3. Attractiveness to pests.
  4. Rotting susceptibility.
  5. Short service life (about 10 years).

To partially compensate for these shortcomings, the tree used in construction must be treated with a fire retardant, antiseptic and pest repellent. In addition, the material must be reliably protected from moisture, dampness and sudden temperature changes. All this entails additional costs of money and time both at the construction stage and during the operation of the fence.

Good to know: In practice, various methods are used to increase the service life of wooden fences. So, in order to prevent the support posts (if they are made of wood) and the picket fence from getting wet and rotting, their upper ends are closed with plugs made of plastic or other suitable material. For the same purpose, the lower edge of the fence is placed at a height of at least 15 cm from the soil level. Finally, during the operation of the fence, it is supposed to regularly mow the grass growing nearby, not forgetting to carefully monitor the state of the transverse logs and the points of their attachment to the supports.

Variety, types

So, the construction of a fence can be carried out in order to:

  • designation of the boundaries of the territory;
  • ensuring privacy (protecting what is happening inside the perimeter from prying eyes and ears);
  • protection against unauthorized entry;
  • reducing the intensity of external noise or wind load;
  • fencing of potentially dangerous areas (roads, cliffs along the banks of rivers and reservoirs, steep slopes, etc.);
  • decorative design of the site.

In accordance with the purpose of the fence, its design is selected, which can be:

  1. Deaf.
  2. Lattice (with gaps).
  3. Combined.

When choosing the type of fence structure, one should not forget about its design. The fence should fit into the existing landscape and be harmoniously combined with the design of objects located in the fenced area.

The most widely used are the following options for the design of wooden fences:

  • "classic";

It is a simple solid or ventilated structure with metal or wooden supports, installed by butting or on concrete, cross-beams from wooden beams and sheathing from standard edged boards.

  • picket fence (vertical or horizontal);

A picket fence is used as a cladding for such a fence - a thin strip with a straight or beveled upper end. The casing can be installed both vertically and horizontally with or without a gap.

  • lattice;

The sheathing of the lattice fence is represented by equally wide strips (slats) installed vertically, horizontally or at an angle of 45 ° crosswise. The slats are mounted with a gap or close at the same distance from each other or in groups, which allows you to create a decorative pattern of the fence fabric.

  • "Chess" (deaf or with a gap);

A complicated version of a picket fence with a deaf or blown-through arrangement of the sheathing in a checkerboard pattern on both sides of the fence. Elements of staggered sheathing are installed with a slight offset in a vertical, horizontal or diagonal position of the canvas.

  • ladder (herringbone);

Sheathing elements of such a fence are mounted with a gap or overlap at a certain angle along the longitudinal axis (vertically or horizontally). The rotation of the fence boards is ensured by means of calibrated spacers.

  • network;

The cloth of a wicker fence is thin strips or branches of the vine, braiding the vertical or horizontal edges of the supporting frame. The braid is quite difficult to manufacture, but it provides high resistance to force and has bright decorative qualities.

  • palisade;

The picket fence is a solid canvas made of logs with ends pointed upwards. Such fences are difficult to overcome and, moreover, to break, moreover, they provide complete privacy of the territory inside the fence perimeter, as well as excellent sound and wind insulation.

  • log paving;

A log fence is assembled from tight-fitting horizontal logs. The latter can be solid or sawn along the longitudinal axis. Log paving is a serious barrier for intruders and provides reliable concealment of what is happening inside the perimeter of the fence from prying eyes and ears.

  • "ranch";

An open fencing, the canvas of which consists of several crossbars, additionally fastened with diagonally located logs. Ranch fences are used to delineate the boundaries of a private area or to protect against the entry of large animals, although they can also serve as decorative functions.

  • "cross".

The supports of such a fence, installed in most cases on a separate or striped concrete base, are equipped with side grooves into which longitudinal sheathing elements are inserted - fence boards or beams of appropriate thickness. Another version of the cross-style fence has horizontal sheathing, which is attached to vertical transoms supported by support pillars and a concrete foundation.

This is not the whole classification. So, fences of the "vertical picket fence" group are found in such varieties as:

  • solid palisade;
  • palisade with gaps;
  • cat or dog ears;
  • private;
  • peak;
  • concave or convex, etc.

Good to know: In practice, combinations of various types of structures are often used, which gives the fence an original appearance, and in some cases additional resistance to force.

Original designs in the photo: decoration of a summer cottage or a private house

Wooden fence of the site along the road Solid wood fence with functions of protection and ensuring the privacy of the territory Fence made of wood with combined cladding Decorative vertical picket fence Concave vertical picket fence Solid canvas of a horizontal picket fence Combined style horizontal log fence Rounded wooden picket fence as part of a convex wooden fence Cross-style fence with brick support posts Fence in the style of "ranch" for fencing a summer cottage Wooden fence with horizontal log crate Wooden fence in the style of "solid palisade" Wooden fence with a wicker canvas construction

Preparation for construction

The construction of a wooden fence, like any other object, begins with design. To solve this problem, you will need a cadastral plan of the fenced area, where the perimeter of the latter is indicated. If there is no plan at hand, the measurements will have to be performed independently.

The perimeter value is the basis for further design, therefore, it must be calculated with maximum accuracy. The data obtained should be transferred to a previously drawn scale plot of the site. In the future, this will facilitate the task of calculating the size and number of fence sections, as well as creating a working sketch of the latter.

Territory marking

To mark the site for the future fence, you will need wooden or metal pegs about 60 cm long, twine (or linen rope) and a hammer. The first step is to set the corner marks by driving the peg into the ground.

The next step is to determine the location of the wicket and entrance gates. As a rule, they are placed together. The standard width of the wicket is 1–1.5 m, and the size of the gate is taken in the range of 2–2.5 m, but in practice it all depends on the needs of the site owner.

Please note: When marking the territory, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the supports, and if they are planned to be installed on the foundation, then its width. To do this, you need to use 2 rows of marks - along the outer and inner edges of the support posts or foundation.

At the end of the design survey, the results obtained should be transferred to the plan of the fenced area. This will allow you to see the whole picture and quickly eliminate the mistakes made during planning.

What materials to choose?

The next step after the development of the master plan is the selection and calculation of materials for the construction of the fence. This requires:

  • decide what material the support pillars will be made of;
  • accept the method of mounting supports;
  • calculate the main parameters of the fence (the number of supports, the size of the sections and the number of transverse lags);
  • determine the material from which the cladding will be made;
  • calculate the cladding volume (the number of fence boards 1.8 m long);
  • determine the method for installing transverse lags and cladding, as well as select the type and calculate the number of fasteners.

The choice of material for the support pillars is not difficult: the most preferable option is a metal profile pipe with a cross section of 60 * 60 mm (for corner supports) and 50 * 50 (for intermediate posts). Proper preparation for operation and proper installation will ensure the service life of such supports for at least 30 years.

If the soil on the fenced area belongs to the category of inactive, i.e. when the seasons change, its layers practically do not move, and the groundwater lies at a great depth (below 1.5 m), the supporting pillars of a wooden fence can be installed by backfilling or partial concreting.

Finally, it is advisable to use wooden beams with a cross section of at least 40 * 40 mm as transverse logs for a fence with a section length of 2.5 m and a canvas height of 1.8 m.

Calculation

When designing, you should take into account a number of design requirements that apply to wooden fences. Strict observance of these requirements will allow you to create a truly reliable, strong and durable fence.

Basic design requirements:

  1. The size of the section should not exceed 2.5 m in order to avoid sagging of the transverse lags under the weight of the sheathing.
  2. Support pillars are installed in the soil to a depth equal to the freezing depth of the latter (80–120 cm), but not less than a quarter of their total length. When choosing a method for installing supports, you need to take into account the level of groundwater, as well as the soil composition, which affects the behavior of the soil when the seasons change.
  3. To give the fence the necessary reliability and stability, the corner supports, as well as the side posts of the gate and wicket must be thicker than the intermediate ones.
  4. The bottom line of the fence should be at least 15 cm above the soil level.
  5. The support pillars must be at least 10 cm higher than the fence.

Good to know: If there are irregularities or slight slopes on the site, it is advisable to level the soil. This will greatly simplify the task of installing the fence structure.

The calculation of the parameters of the fence is carried out in several stages:

  • Suppose a plot has the shape of a trapezoid with bases 29 and 40 m long and sides measuring 25 and 20 m.The perimeter value is calculated by summing all the sides of the figure:

P = 29 + 40 + 20 + 25 = 114 m;

  • If the gate and the wicket are installed side by side on the line of the small base of the trapezoid, the length of the fence on this side of the site will be the difference between the total length of the segment and the total width of the wicket and entrance:

l 1 = 29 - (1.5 + 2.5) = 25 m;

  • In this case, the total length of the fence will be:

L = 25 + 40 + 20 + 25 = 110 m;

  • Now you can count the number of fence sections, each of which is 2.5 m long:

n sections = L / l sections = 110 / 2.5 = 44;

  • Having the exact number of sections, we calculate the number of support pillars using the formula:

N supports = n + 1 = 44 + 1 = 45;

Please note: Corner supports and posts on the sides of the gate and wicket must be thicker than the intermediate ones. There are 6 of them - 4 at the corners of the plot and 2 at the entrance and gate. Accordingly, the number of intermediate supports will be: 45 - 6 = 39 pcs.

  • Next, you need to calculate the height of the support pillars. With a soil freezing depth of 80 cm, a fence height of 1.8 m, and taking into account the requirements for the height of the supports, it turns out that the total length of each of them will be:

L supports = 1.8 + 0.1 + 0.15 + 0.8 = 2.85 m;

  • The last step in preliminary calculations is to determine the number of transverse lags of the fence. If we take the height of the latter equal to 1.8 m, 2 crossbars will be needed for each of the sections. Thus, the total number of lags will be:

n lag = n sections * 2 = 44 * 2 = 88;

As a result of the calculations, we get the exact number of structural elements of the fence:

  • 39 intermediate supports;
  • 6 corner supports;
  • 88 transverse logs.

At this point, the main calculations within the framework of the fencing project can be considered complete. To start the practical implementation of the project, it remains to choose the cladding material and calculate its volume.

Which boards to choose for cladding?

The choice of fence sheathing depends on the design style of the latter, as well as on the way the wood is protected. As a rule, conifers - pine, spruce or cedar - are chosen for outdoor fences with a predominantly protective function.

If the priority in designing the appearance of the fence was given to its decorative qualities, deciduous trees - oak, beech, ash and birch - are much better suited for cladding. The strength indicators of such a fence will be low, but with proper processing it will look very impressive.

Cedar belongs to expensive and rare conifers. It stands out for its bright and beautiful texture, as well as high wear resistance.

As for oak fences, they are not often found - their construction is too expensive.

Other types of deciduous and coniferous trees, although they have good flexibility and fracture strength, are poorly resistant to moisture, therefore they are practically not used in the construction of fences.

The most accessible and cheapest timber is found in pine and spruce. It is densely saturated with resin, which is excellent protection against dampness, mold and decay, and has an optimum humidity for outdoor use (15–20% with proper drying). Spruce wood is softer than pine, so it is easier to cut. But in terms of knotty material, spruce species are undoubtedly the leader: in pine, knots begin at a considerable height, while in spruce - almost immediately from the ground.

Please note: If spruce or pine is chosen for cladding a wooden fence, you should prepare in advance for the fact that these species show an increased tendency to cracking. Spruce and pine wood owes this to the nature of the fibers and the abundance of knots. This means that the material needs to be bought with a certain margin, since some of it will inevitably go to waste.

Fence sheathing calculation

The last step before going to the building materials store is calculating the number of fence boards needed to create the canvas of the fence under construction. This value is calculated as follows:

  1. First you need to take the amount of clearance between the pickets. Suppose it will be 4 cm.
  2. We measure the width of one fence board. Let it be 15 cm.
  3. The length of one section of the fence is known - it is 2.5 m, i.e. 250 cm. If the boards were installed side by side, 16 units could be used per section. But with a 4-cm clearance, this number can be safely reduced to 13.
  4. We check the correctness of our choice. The total width of the boards will be: 13 * 15 = 195 cm.Then the width of the gaps between the boards (taking into account that the gaps will be 1 more than the picket fence) will be: (13 + 1) * 4 = 52 cm. Together it will be: 195 + 56 = 251 cm, which diverges by only 1 cm from the length of the fence section, and this value can be easily compensated for by increasing the size of the outer gaps by 0.5 cm.
  5. We calculate the number of boards required for sheathing the entire fence (without the door leaf and wicket): 13 * 44 = 572 pcs.

Good to know: A standard wooden picket fence has a thickness of 1.5 - 2.5 cm. This value is important when calculating the volume of boards required for sheathing a fence. So, with a fence height of 180 cm, a board width of 15 cm and a thickness of 2 cm, the sheathing volume will be: 180 * 15 * 2 * 572 = 3 088 800 cm 3 or almost 3.1 cubic meters.

Construction tool

Preparing for the construction of a wooden fence includes the collection of tools, which will greatly simplify and significantly speed up the work. The list should include:

  • jigsaw;
  • circular saw with discs for metal;
  • welding machine;
  • a hacksaw for wood;
  • electric drill with a set of drills for wood and metal;
  • shovel and crowbar;
  • garden earth drill;
  • hammer and pliers;
  • a set of screwdrivers and wrenches;
  • electric planer;
  • emery for wood;
  • brushes for processing wood with a protective compound and paint;
  • building level and plumb line;
  • measuring cord (twine);
  • construction tape.

Please note: During the construction of the fence, you will definitely need fasteners. For a simple fence, you can use galvanized nails, but screws or bolted connections are a much more durable option. It is noteworthy that for the latter, you will have to prepare through holes in the picket fence and transverse logs in advance.

How to make a wooden fence with your own hands: step by step instructions

The construction of a fence made of wood can be conditionally divided into three stages:

  1. Installation of support pillars.
  2. Installation of crossbars.
  3. Frame sheathing.

Each of them deserves a more detailed description.

Installation of supports

Suppose the soil on the fenced area allows the installation of the support posts of the fence by the backfilling method. Let's see how this is done using one of the pillars as an example:

  1. Using a garden drill, a crowbar and a shovel, in one of the corners of the plot we make a hole 1–1.2 m deep and 40–50 cm in diameter.
  2. We lay a 10-15 cm thick sand pillow at the bottom of the pit and carefully tamp it.
  3. Set the support in the center of the hole. This is a square profile pipe, the outer edges of which must be parallel to both arms of the fence.
  4. We pour a mixture of crushed stone with sand to a height of 20–25 cm at the bottom of the pit and tamp it carefully.
  5. We check the vertical support and the parallelism of its edges to the fence sleeves.
  6. We fill in the next portion of the pillow of sand and crushed stone, tamp it and check the position of the support again. And so on to the very top of the pit.

Good to know: A sand-stone pillow in the process of backfilling will lay down more densely if it is abundantly moistened with water, not forgetting to add sand at the same time.

Installation of transverse lags

Fence crossbars made of wooden beams are most conveniently mounted using homemade brackets. They are made of 35 * 35 mm metal corner. But in order to save time and materials, ready-made brackets can simply be bought in the store.

Installing the lag is done as follows:


Please note: The distance between the logs can be reduced if necessary, but this will negatively affect the strength of the fence along the upper and lower edges of the canvas. The support should be at least 5-10 cm above the sheathing, and the bottom of the latter should be at least 10-15 cm from the soil line.

Frame sheathing

Before proceeding with the installation of fence boards, we note that there are at least two ways to solve this problem. One is that the picket fence is mounted on the logs before installing the latter on the supports:

  1. The first step is to set the crossbars at the required distance from each other, observing a single plane. This can be done using pre-prepared coasters from scrap materials.
  2. It does not hurt to make templates in advance, which are convenient to lay out the gaps between the boards.
  3. The lower (or upper) edge of the canvas also does not hurt to set it under the ruler. As such, you can use any of the remaining crossbars, set at the desired distance from the mounted one.
  4. Using self-tapping screws or bolts, we mount fence boards on transverse joists. In this case, you need to ensure that there is no deflection or any other stress in the construction of the canvas.
  5. We raise the finished fence and fix it with bolts on the previously welded brackets. This will require at least two pairs of working hands. In addition, you will have to prepare stands with a height of 10-15 cm. With their help, it will be much easier to fix the canvas with lags on the brackets, which is necessary for the successful landing of the structure on the bolts.
  6. If the fence boards were installed without deforming the crossbars, and the latter were aligned accurately, their ends will easily fit on the brackets.

Please note: The second way to install the cladding is to mount each board separately. With this approach, it becomes more difficult to place the fence boards in a strictly vertical position and at an equal distance from each other, and also creates stress in the structure of the canvas due to the deflection of the crossbars under the weight of the sheathing.

Protection and finishing: how to cover and paint

The wooden fence is used in the open air all year round. This means that all structural elements need reliable protection from moisture, temperature fluctuations, pests, rust and fire.

Good to know: Metal elements of the fence frame, especially in areas with welded and bolted joints, must be primed and painted before installation. Before starting the main work, it also does not hurt to remember that the legs of the support pillars installed on the ground need additional waterproofing. It can be done with roofing material or bitumen. But first, to isolate the inner space of the profile pipe, it is necessary to weld caps to its lower and upper ends.

In addition to moisture, harmful microorganisms and pests, ultraviolet radiation leads to a decrease in the life of a wooden fence. It accelerates the oxidation of wood fibers and evaporates the moisture contained in it. As a result, wooden fencing elements lose not only their visual appeal, but also their bearing capacity. To exclude premature wear of the structure, it is recommended to use special additives - UV hardeners when applying impregnation.

The impregnating compound is applied in several layers on a deep penetration primer. Primed and impregnated wooden surfaces are covered with moisture-resistant varnish or paint, which serve as the final touch in protecting the fence from aggressive operating factors.

Please note: Primers and impregnations change the color of the wood, which must be taken into account when designing a wooden fence design.

The condition of the fence made of wood must be closely monitored throughout the entire period of operation. Any damage or material wear should be removed immediately, which will significantly increase the life of the structure. As for the choice of a method for decorating a wooden fence, it depends on many factors, the main among which are the aesthetic preferences of the owner of the site and his financial capabilities. For example, a finished fence can be decorated or even reinforced with forging, give it an original color, experimenting with impregnations and topcoats, decorate with glass or stone inserts, etc. At the same time, you can decorate the fence gradually, the main thing is at the very beginning to reliably protect it from moisture destruction, pests and burnout in the sun.

Video: Building a wooden fence yourself

Building a wooden fence with your own hands requires careful preparation. Even at the design stage, you need to carefully study the building materials market and try to determine the conditions in which the fence will be used. With an attentive attitude to the basic design requirements, as well as the whims of the basic material, the independent construction of the fence will take away a minimum of effort and bring maximum pleasure and benefit.


In addition to purely practical functions, such as protecting your personal space from prying eyes and the penetration of unwanted "guests", the fence performs an equally important aesthetic function. A good fence should blend in with its surroundings and not look like an alien element against the overall architectural composition of your home.

DIY fence. Photo

A wide range of materials used today for the construction of fences gives complete freedom of creative thought and flight of imagination. And master classes with step-by-step instructions for making a fence allow even beginners to build a fence on their own for their home or plot. In our article you will find all the information on how to make a fence with your own hands.

DIY stone fence

Stone remains one of the most popular materials for building a fence. In terms of reliability and durability, stone is far superior to other fence materials. From time immemorial, it is the masonry of fortified buildings that have survived and have come down to us. How to build a stone fence with your own hands?

Construction stages

The whole process of erecting a stone fence consists of the following stages:

  1. Layout and markup
  2. Laying the foundation
  3. Erection of pillars
  4. Masonry

Layout

First of all, we create a preliminary drawing, with an exact indication of the height and length of the building, as well as with a designation of the location of the gate and wicket.

Markup

We mark the boundaries of the site, which will be fenced, by driving in its corners pegs... We pull the cord between them and in places where the layout of the pillars is provided for by the drawing, we drive in additional stakes. The distance between the support posts should not exceed 2.5 m.

Foundation

Guided by the markings made, we proceed to digging the foundation trench. The tightly pulled threads allow you to get straight lines when digging. A stone fence is a heavy structure that requires solid foundation, in order to avoid subsidence in the future. The trench is dug to a depth of 60 - 70 cm.However, if the height of the fence exceeds 2 m, then with each additional meter of height the depth of the foundation increases by 10 cm.The width depends on the size of the stone, but on average it does not exceed 40 cm.

Before pouring the foundation to the bottom of the trench, lay out a pillow from sand or rubble... We tamp it well and proceed to strengthening the base with medium section reinforcement. We lay out the waterproofing layer of roofing material, install the formwork and, finally, proceed to pouring. Depending on the grade of concrete, the foundation will set and acquire the required hardness within 15 - 30 days. In cold weather, it takes longer to harden. In hot weather, moisture is lost, which is necessary for the hardening processes. Therefore, in summer, after pouring, cover the foundation with a thick tarpaulin and moisten it regularly.

Erection of pillars

After the base has hardened, we proceed to the construction of the pillars. To build a stone fence with your own hands, you should choose the right material. With a lack of experience in masonry, it is recommended to lay out the pillars from hewn stones with smooth edges. It is more difficult to lay out rubble stone, but it allows you to create a unique design of the structure.

We install the formwork for the bottom layer and lay out the stones in it with the flat side outward, trying to place them as tightly as possible to each other. Thick cement mix fill in the gaps between the stones. If the mixture gets on the surface of the stone, we remove it with a metal brush only after it has completely dried and without the use of water. We lay out all subsequent rows in the same way.



Span masonry

Spans are laid out using the same technology as the construction of pillars. To give an aesthetic look, add dry dye to the mixture. At the end of the work with a narrow trowel, we perform the jointing.


DIY stone fence. Photo


DIY brick fence

A brick fence is more than just a secure fence for your home. Due to their aesthetic qualities, brick buildings look stylish and laconic. And the correct geometric shape of the material allows even a beginner to build a brick fence with his own hands.

Since brick is not a cheap pleasure, an important stage of construction is advance paynemt required materials. The number of bricks is calculated based on the following parameters:

  • wall thickness (one or two bricks);
  • height;
  • length of the fence.

The following stages of work:

  1. Markup
  2. Foundation device
  3. Construction of brick pillars

DIY brick fence. Photo instruction

After marking and marking the places of the pillars, we proceed to digging trenches and drilling depressions for vertical supports. The depth of the trench is 40 - 45 cm, taking into account the thickness of the buffer layer of sand or crushed stone, the depth of the holes is about 1.5 m. The diameter of the hole must exceed the diameter of the section of the metal support by 15 - 20 cm. The posts are installed in the prepared recesses.



We fix the formwork, after which we lay out the sand cushion and reinforce the foundation. We lay out a waterproofing layer that prevents the outflow of moisture from the cement mixture. Pour the resulting base with concrete, not forgetting to fill the holes around the posts with it, tamping the mixture during the pouring process.



After the concrete has completely dried (20 - 30 days), we proceed to the construction of brick pillars by laying vertical supports. The simplest type of masonry is laying out 4 elements around the post. Lodge bricks



Climb onto the cement mixture, the tight compaction of which is achieved by lightly tapping on the brick. There are quite a few masonry options: the photo shows some of them. Following the step-by-step instructions for making a brick fence, presented in the video materials, you can build a beautiful and reliable fence for your home without resorting to expensive professional services.



DIY fence made of corrugated board

If you need to quickly, reliably and at no extra cost to protect the site from prying eyes, the best solution is a fence made of corrugated board. This material has several advantages:

  • fences made of corrugated board are durable and strong;
  • are resistant to adverse natural factors;
  • have good sound insulation;
  • do not require special care;
  • fit well into any environment;
  • affordable;
  • installation of a fence from a profiled sheet does not require special training.

DIY fence made of corrugated board. Photo

Profiled sheet is an excellent option for fencing a garden or summer cottage. With the help of the following photo instructions for building a fence in the country, you can easily build such a fence.

Construction stages

  1. Layout and markup
  2. Installation of vertical supports
  3. Horizontal lag device
  4. Installation of corrugated board

Layout and markup

In order to assemble a fence made of corrugated board with your own hands, you can do without a preliminary drawing. It is enough to measure the area around the perimeter, determine the place where the gate will be located and make markup, marking the corners and places of the vertical posts with pegs, the distance between which should not exceed 3 m. We leave the location of the gate free.

Installing racks

In the designated places, a swarm of recesses, the depth of which should be equal to 1/3 of the height of the rack. The diameter must exceed the cross-section diameter of the rack by 15 - 20 cm. Both round and square pipes can be used. We install the supports strictly vertically using the level. We put a layer of sand or gravel on the bottom of the pit and fill it with concrete.


Horizontal lag device

After 3 - 4 days, after the concrete has completely dried, we weld transverse logs to the vertical posts at the rate of one log for each meter of the fence height.

Fence made of corrugated board. Step by step photos

Fastening the profiled sheet

In conclusion, we attach the sheets of corrugated board to the finished frame, overlapping them, overlapping one another to the depth of one wave. Fasten with self-tapping screws or rivets with a pitch of 50 cm. Scratches formed during work are painted over with paint from a spray can or coated with a primer to avoid corrosion.







Do-it-yourself slab fence

Eco-style supporters will love the slab fence, which is not only an original, but also an economical solution when erecting a fence. Croaker- This is the residual cheap lumber formed during the longitudinal sawing of a log. One of its surfaces is smooth, and the other is convex with remnants of the bark. The higher the knotty of the surface, the lower the cost of the material.

Croaker is an excellent material for building a fence for a wooden country house. Photo instructions for building a fence in the country will help to build such a fence even for a person who is far from the intricacies of construction skills.

Construction stages

  1. Layout and markup
  2. Installation of uprights
  3. Installation of cross bars
  4. Slab attachment

Layout and markup

To build a fence from a slab with your own hands, we pull a thread around the perimeter of the site and mark the places of vertical supports along it with a step of 2 - 2.5 m.


Installation of supports

We dig holes for vertical supports to the depth of soil freezing (1 - 1.5 m). Both metal pipes and wooden posts can be used as supports. In the latter case, the pillars should be tarred with hot resin or varnished to a height placed in the ground. Using a level, we install the racks strictly vertically and fill with concrete.


Installation of crossbars

Cross bars are not always necessary. The need for them appears only if the slab slats are mounted vertically. When mounted horizontally, they can be fixed directly to the vertical supports.

Slab attachment

The method of laying the slab depends only on your imagination. The planks can be overlapped or spaced, vertically or horizontally. When laying with an overlap, the planks should be placed on top of each other by less than 2 cm, since drying out by 1.5 cm should be expected. With the vertical arrangement of the planks, their upper edge can be made even or curly.

Some helpful tips

The following recommendations will help extend the life of a slab fence:

  1. Do not use boards that are too wide: over time, they will crack, which will impair the strength and appearance of the fence.
  2. The finished fence should be coated with paint or varnish: this way you can not only give it a more aesthetic appearance, but also create a barrier to decay.
  3. Install a gable roof over the fence: this will accentuate the retro style and protect your fence from moisture.

DIY bamboo fence

Have a desire to highlight your site against the general background of dull fences? Then the fence is out bamboo- this is what you need. This exotic plant will add a touch of originality to your architectural ensemble. A bamboo fence will look stylish and interesting. How to make such a fence with your own hands? Our photo instruction will help you easily cope with the task.

Stages of work

  1. Territory marking
  2. Installation of vertical supports
  3. Making a wooden frame
  4. Collection of a bamboo shield on a wooden base
  5. Fastening bamboo shields to posts

Markup

Regardless of what material the fence is built from, work always begins with marking the territory and marking places for vertical supports. To build a bamboo fence with your own hands, wooden posts are used as supports.

Installation of vertical supports

In the marked places, recesses are dug up to 1/3 of the height of the pillar. To prevent wood decay processes, we smear or cover with bitumen mastic that part of the pillar that will be in the ground. We install the support strictly vertically, using a level or plumb line for this. We put a layer of sand or gravel on the bottom of the hole and fill in the cement mixture. Leave it for 3 - 4 days until the concrete sets.

Preparing a wooden frame

We nail metal embedded parts to the posts, in which the wooden frame will be held. Parts on adjacent posts must be on the same level. To achieve this, we use a board and a level.

We cut the horizontal boards to the required length and insert them into the embedded parts on the pillars. Then we proceed with the installation of vertical x boards. We fix them with self-tapping screws to horizontal boards with a step not exceeding 1 m.












Collecting the bamboo shield

We remove the finished wooden frame from the vertical supports and put it on the trestle. We screw in self-tapping screws at the corners of the frame in order to prevent the bamboo trunks from rolling off the base. We begin to lay the bamboo on the frame, tightly fitting the trunks to each other. We attach the bamboo to the base with self-tapping screws. Using a wide board, mark the desired height of the bamboo shield and cut off everything unnecessary with a circular saw. We do the same from the other side. Our bamboo shield is ready.















We collect the fence

We install the finished fence element in the retaining parts on the poles and fasten it with self-tapping screws. We cover the attachment points with bamboo trunks. To prevent the ingress of rainwater into the trunks, we lay boards along the upper edge of the fence, which we attach to the racks with self-tapping screws. To extend the life of the fence, we treat bamboo and all wooden parts with an antiseptic primer and cover with a waterproof varnish.








DIY wicker fence

If you are tired of the dull concrete and iron fences that catch your eye every now and then, protect your site with a light wicker structure that will give the exterior of your home or summer residence an airy and pastoral atmosphere. It is not difficult to build a wicker fence in the country with your own hands. It only takes inspiration and a little patience. So what do we need for this?

In order to make a wicker fence with your own hands, you should carefully consider the choice of wood. The rods should be thin, obedient, but at the same time strong. The following types of trees are considered the best:

  • Alder
  • Hazel
  • Birch

There are many ways of weaving a fence... From the diagrams presented here, you can choose the option you like the most.

The first step in constructing a wicker fence is to create basics... To do this, wooden or metal racks of the desired height are driven into the ground at a distance of 50 - 60 cm from each other and to a depth of 40 - 45 cm. In this case, the thickness of the racks directly depends on the thickness of the rods.

Before starting work, the weaving material must be softened in a steam room or in a salt bath. From this, the rods will become more pliable. Then we proceed directly to weaving. We fasten the twig with wire to the first post and begin to carry it in a checkerboard pattern between the rest of the posts. In order to avoid decay processes, the wattle fence should not fit snugly to the ground: we leave a gap of 5 - 10 cm.



Wicker fence made of boards

A separate type of wicker fence is a wicker fence made of boards. Such a fence looks solid and impressive and can be used not only for a summer residence, but also for a home.

For the construction of such a fence, only metal vertical racks are used, which are necessarily concreted, since the pressure of the boards on them is great. Planed boards are used, which are attached to the racks with self-tapping screws. Finally, the wood is covered with a layer of protective mastic and painted.


Rules and regulations for the installation of fences

When erecting fences and barriers, one should be guided not only by one's own taste and capabilities, but also by generally accepted norms and rules:

  • The choice of material for the fence that goes to the main highway should be agreed with local authorities: it must comply with the general architectural plan and not be traumatic.
  • Height such a fence should not exceed 2.2 m.
  • If the fence is located at a distance of less than 1.5 m from the section of public street, then Gates must open inward so as not to impede movement.

Rules for installing fences between adjacent areas:

  • Maximum allowable height- 2.2 m.
  • In this case, the height deaf fences should not exceed 0.75 m, and the rest of the fence should be mesh or lattice. Otherwise, a written statement must be received. agreement neighbors.
  • Without the consent of neighbors, you can install a blind fence up to 2.2 m high from light-transmitting materials.
  • Thickness the fencing is increased only by your site.
  • The construction of a blind fence requires installation drainage, in order to avoid flooding of the neighboring area.
  • Allowed creation hedge, the height of which should not exceed 1.5 m.

If you decide to build a fence in the country with your own hands, you should take into account the following rules for planning fences:

  • the height of the fence separating the site from the street can reach 2 m;
  • by decision of the meeting of the gardening partnership, the fence can be made of deaf materials;
  • fences between neighboring areas should not exceed 1.5 m and should be light-transmitting.

Fire protection standards

Fire safety standards are regulated by the SNiP of the Russian Federation. According to fire safety rules, the minimum distances between buildings depend on the material from which they are made:

  • For concrete and stone structures, this distance is 6 m.
  • If concrete, stone or iron structures contain wooden parts, then the minimum distance increases to 8 m.
  • For wooden structures, this distance is 15 m.

Work on the new site begins with the main thing - the fencing of the territory. It sometimes becomes equivalent to the designation of the border, but it is performed very conditionally: with a stretched wire, somehow hammered in stakes and other not very aesthetic substitutes for the fence. A little later, the moment comes when you need to seriously think about protecting your personal plot from outsiders. And then we build a fence.

The construction of a beautiful and durable fence is quite laborious and requires money. First you need to decide what purposes it will mainly serve:

  1. If the functions are limited to the designation of territorial boundaries, then an inexpensive fence can be built from a picket fence, metal mesh, or bushes can be planted around the perimeter of the site, which will eventually grow and turn into an impassable hedge.
  2. If you want to hide from the gaze of passers-by, you will need to build a high and impenetrable fence. The cheapest and most durable options in this case are corrugated board and wood.
  3. A fence made of special concrete slabs, bricks or forged spans will be very beautiful and will last more than 50 years, but it is quite difficult to build it with your own hands. The cost of such a fence is not affordable for everyone.

Therefore, you should consider how to build a fence with your own hands quickly and inexpensively.

Where to begin?

The first stage of any construction is marking.

Before you build a fence with your own hands, you need to call a specialist from the BTI to approve the boundaries of the site: the neighbors are unlikely to like it if the erected fence takes up part of their territory or casts a shadow on the landings.

When marking, it is necessary to be guided by the instructions of SNiP 30-02-97, which regulate:

  • the distance from the residential building to the fence is at least 3 m;
  • from outbuildings or large trees - 4 m;
  • the height of the fence between adjacent areas is not more than 1.5 m;
  • to ensure sufficient insolation of the site, the fence is made of translucent materials - lattice, mesh, picket fence.

After all the necessary approvals have been completed, you can start marking and preparing materials and tools for construction:

  1. For marking, you will need 60 cm pegs and a cord. Having determined the boundaries of the site in accordance with its plan, drive in the extreme stakes in 4 corners and pull the cord from one peg to another, marking the line of the future fence.
  2. In accordance with the length of the span of the fence, which is determined individually in each case, drive a row of pegs along the line indicated by the cord. They will indicate the location of the installation of the support posts of the fence. The span length should not exceed 2.5 m. Based on the number of pegs, it is necessary to calculate the required amount of material for the posts and the fence fabric.

Purchase materials:

  • asbestos-cement pipe, steel or wooden beam from 5x5 cm to 10x10 cm - for pillars;
  • crushed stone - to fix the pillars in the ground;
  • profile metal pipe or bar 10x2.5 cm - for the device of transverse logs, to which the fence fabric will be attached;
  • profiled sheet, edged board, netting or other material for making a fence fabric;
  • nails, screws for fastening.

Tools that will be required:

  • shovel or manual drill, electric - for excavation for the installation of poles;
  • plumb line and building level;
  • welding machine for fastening metal logs by welding;
  • drill, hacksaw, grinder.

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The basis of the fence - pillars for support

No matter what kind of fence you want to build, the installation of support pillars will be a decisive factor in its durability and strength. The aesthetics of the building will also depend on the correct support device, because even a rich fence looks sloppy if its pillars are warped or collapsed.

In order for the fence to be even, you will first have to install the corner posts, stretch a cord along their upper border to determine the plane of the fence and the height of the remaining supports. Dig in the intermediate posts at the places marked with pegs, aligning them in height and vertical.

The method of installing the pillars is determined by the nature of the soil on the site: on heaving and deeply freezing soils, even concreted pillars can warp in the very first winter. How to build a fence with your own hands and avoid such a nuisance?

Image 1: a diagram of a fence made of brick and corrugated board.

  1. In order not to create unnecessary work for yourself on deepening and concreting the pillars, you need to drill or dig a hole so that its diameter is slightly larger than the diameter of the support.
  2. The depth of the hole is determined at 1/3 of the height of the post. On clayey soils and with a high level of groundwater, this depth should be increased by another 10-15 cm for the installation of a crushed stone cushion under the column. Place crushed stone in a dug hole with a layer of 10-15 cm and tamp. Install the pillar, using a plumb line, adjust its verticality in 2 planes perpendicular to each other and fix it with temporary spacers in the hole.
  3. Fill the space between the support and the walls of the hole with rubble, tamp it. Remove temporary spacers and re-check the verticality of the post
  4. Pour crushed stone to the edges of the hole and tamp thoroughly. This method of installing supports for the fence creates a layer of soil around the column that is not subject to heaving, and acts as a drainage when moisture penetrates from precipitation and soil water.

The service time of the support posts also depends on their preparation for use. The part immersed in the ground must be protected from moisture if it is wooden or steel elements:

  • the tree should be pickled with a strong solution of copper sulfate in water (Bordeaux liquid) and covered with bitumen or mastic in 1-2 layers;
  • cover the iron pipe with bitumen.

An asbestos-cement pipe is not subject to corrosion or decay, but water that gets inside it (during rains) is capable of breaking a pillar made of such material from the inside when it freezes in winter. To prevent this, the top opening of the pipe must be securely closed immediately after installation.

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Installation of a lag and a fence

Image 2: installation diagram of corrugated sheets.

  1. Install the lower logs at a height of at least 20 cm from the ground level. This is to ensure that they do not rot and corrode from contact with wet soil. In this case, the lower edge of the fence canvas will be located 10 cm below the log, closing it and not in contact with the ground. The lower lag installation mark is determined by measuring the distance to it from the top of each of the corner posts. A cord is pulled along these marks, checking the horizontal with the help of a building level.
  2. To install the top log from the top of each corner post, set aside a distance of about 10 cm, put a mark and drive in a nail. Pull the cord from one corner post to the other, marking the level of installation of the veins. The distance can be large if the curly supports will perform decorative functions.

If necessary (high fence height), additional logs with the same pitch between them can be installed in the interval between the upper and lower veins.

The lag is fastened to the metal support pillars by welding or a threaded connection on bolts, the length of which is greater than the diameter of the pipe. To do this, through holes are drilled in the support and lag, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the bolt. A nut is screwed onto a bolt passing through the holes and tightened.

Lags are attached to wooden posts with nails or self-tapping screws. Their length is selected in such a way that they go through the vein and the column, protruding 2-3 cm. This part is carefully folded.

After that, an inexpensive material is attached to the veins, from which the fence fabric will consist - a profiled sheet, a board 10x2 cm:

  1. Decking grade C (more than 0.5 mm thick) is attached to the logs with special self-tapping screws 3.5 cm long with a pitch of 45-50 cm. Such self-tapping screws have rubber washers and a polymer coating for the heads in the kit. Aluminum rivets are not recommended for fixing corrugated board. Corrosion treatment is not required - the sheets are galvanized and covered with a colored polymer layer.
  2. A 10x2 cm edged board is nailed or fastened with self-tapping screws so that they pierce through the wooden parts. The head must be sunk into the wood by 1-2 mm. The protruding ends of the nails are bent. The wooden fence should be lined and painted for outdoor use to keep it from rotting.

Private property owners are always trying to improve the area around buildings. To create a special design style of the fence, internal picket fences, in harmony not only with the facade, but also with the surrounding landscape. The beautifully crafted external fence, which forms a single composition with the house, stands out for its exclusivity among the monotonous buildings. In a single architectural ensemble with pronounced exteriors of neighbors, it brings its own flavor to the overall architectural style.

There are plenty of constructions of fences made of various materials. The main thing is to choose the best option that elegantly fits into the surrounding landscape environment.

By erecting a decorative fence with his own hands from improvised means, the owner of the site will not only save his personal budget, but also enjoy the quality of the work done. Admiration for craftsmanship, design skills from loved ones, friends, acquaintances, just passers-by. It is not difficult to build a picturesque fence on your own, a decorative fence for internal zoning. The main thing is to start and in the process of work you will acquire skills, knowledge, the ability to work with the selected material.

Functions, features and application of a decorative fence

Elegantly arranged, made in an individual style, moderately colorful and elegant fence can perform several functions:

Self-construction of artificial fences has some peculiarities.

Without knowledge, experience with the material, you first have to study the topic, acquire practical skills.

Before creating them, first determine the functions that the fence will perform. Structures installed as a barrier to access must be a reliable security system against external encroachments. With such an appointment, it is necessary to take care of strong supports, the foundation of the future structure. The construction of wooden barriers will require special processing of the fence elements. Impregnation, painting will increase the service life of the fence. Working with any workpiece requires the skill of safe handling. We must not forget that glass elements are fragile, require increased care during work, protection from cuts.

Fences, as decorations, are not intended for long-term use. Over time, the owners may want to change the design for a more attractive one. Or there will be new ideas, fantasies of decorating the inner backyard space. Therefore, for the construction of palisades, fences, it is convenient to use even short-lived materials. The most common residues are:

  • plastic;
  • wood;
  • bricks;
  • glass;
  • stone;
  • rubber;
  • concrete;
  • metal.

Some craftsmen create combined structures that have their own flavor and appeal. And besides physical labor, they do not require financial costs. Following practicality, it is better to choose blanks that will be familiar and convenient to work with. The most common for creating picturesque fences is a tree. By appropriately preparing the structural elements, you can operate the structure for up to 10 years. The tree is easily processed, takes the desired shape. Glass, plastic bottles are the most affordable, convenient for quick fencing.

Types of decorative fences from scrap materials

The creation of artificial barriers from improvised means, of which there are plenty in the household, does not require much effort. The main types of decorative fences:

  • flower beds;
  • front garden;
  • water bodies;
  • garden;
  • sectional;
  • ceremonial;
  • zoning;
  • security.

The front gardens are fenced with wooden mini-picket fences. On flower ridges, stone curbs, miniature fences, and plastic tape are used. Pre-painted plastic bottles installed around the perimeter of the garden look beautiful. Zoning fences can be made in one style for all zones. Individually selected for each site separately. Garden paths and reservoirs located on the backyard are decorated with small metal fences. The front entrance of the house is ennobled with graceful fences that look spectacular against the general background of the facade.

Decorative fences made of wood

Making a board fence is simple. Thin boards are required, the dimensions of which are determined by the purpose of the fence. Low hedges are used to separate flowers from lawns and paths. When restricting the access of children and pets, the height is selected from 0.4 m. The configuration of the boards is created from simple triangles crowning the top of a decorative wooden fence to carved complex figures. On two crossbeams, workpieces are stuffed closely or at a certain distance from each other. The finished sections are dug into the prepared trench. You can install posts on which to fix the board fence flush with the ground.

A wooden lattice fence is assembled from slats. First, the contour is prepared, and then, placing the slats, connect them to the base. The structural elements are fastened to each other with nails, screws. The sections are installed, fixed on the previously dug supports. It is even easier to make a wattle from tree branches. The best option is willow vine. Prepared branches are laid between the hammered wooden poles.

A rock

The erection of impressive structures of stone will require the arrangement of a reliable foundation. Low stone barriers do not need support. Structural elements are stacked end-to-end and provide shape to flower beds, flower beds, beds. Placed in several rows, they block the access of pets and babies. For reliability, they are laid on a concrete solution. The most convenient plank stone, conveniently stacks on top of each other. The location of the buta in one layer, end-to-end, is used to fencing the beds, decorating garden paths.

You can make zoning with granite of various sizes, dividing ridges. If there is a small reservoir, a spring on the site, then the stone is the most suitable decorative element. High granite barriers are a reliable external protection of the territory. The construction of a serious system will require the skills of preparing concrete mortar, laying stone, equipping the foundation for the structure. If you set yourself the goal of creating such a fence at home with your own hands, then having studied the construction business it will not be difficult to build a structure that will stand for more than a decade.

Glass

Glass bottles are the most common raw materials that almost every home owner has. An artificial fence near the flower bed, the fence of the garden paths looks very original on the site. Glass bottles are unpretentious raw materials, they withstand all weather disasters. Collecting the right amount will not be difficult. To increase the strength, sand is poured inside. Transparent bottles pre-filled with colored fine gravel look beautiful. A glass garden fence made of bottles will last for more than one year. The placement technology is simple: they are driven in with the neck down, half the height.

Some home designers like a different layout. They place bottles with the neck up with the same stoppers. Laying is done in a trench at an angle. This option gives the flowerbed, garden bed a special look.

Brick

The simplest available means of zoning flower beds is a brick. The presence of residues can be used as an artificial fence. To create a florist, you will have to master simple masonry skills. Improvement of the territory is carried out by laying of the type:

  • "Zigzag";
  • "Chess";
  • "Vertical".

When laying in a zigzag, the material is placed on top of each other with a slope of 45 °. In order for the elements to stand securely, they first dig out a groove. Bricks are laid in it in a checkerboard pattern, on top of each other with small gaps, which are filled with cement mortar. When laying vertically, one row is placed vertically at a certain distance from each other so that the second row can be laid flat on top. Fantasy will help to create original figures from bricks. Very often, they are lined with flower beds, forming rhombuses, ovals, square, rectangular shapes.

Plastic

Most often, plastic bottles are used, installing flower bed fences from them. You can paint the workpieces with multi-colored paints. Such a fence will frame the beds in an original way. The forms are varied, as far as imagination suffices. First, a groove is dug around the perimeter at half the height of the bottles. Then they are placed close to each other, covered with earth, tamped. Neck up or down, depends on the preferences of the owner of the site. If old vinyl records are lying around, you can attach them too, placing them around the perimeter of the beds.

The formation of flower beds is also performed from plastic sheets. This is useful when you need to stop rooted vegetation. The height of the plastic sheet is selected taking into account the depth at which it must be placed.

Rubber

Old car tires are good for arranging small flower beds, a flower garden. Earth is poured in the middle, seedlings are planted. Some gardeners are engaged in the cultivation of strawberries in these makeshift beds. Previously, at certain distances, the tires cut holes for planting seedlings. Then the chambers are stacked vertically on top of each other. Each tier is filled with earth. The system is stable, so you can place up to 6-8 rubber chambers. After that, an impromptu garden bed is planted with strawberries. The method is convenient when the personal plot is small. Cameras can be pre-whitewashed with lime, painted.

For high-quality irrigation, a plastic pipe with drilled holes is installed in the center of the column. If necessary, water is poured into it, which evenly flows to the roots of the plants.

Metal

Metal systems are convenient for creating decorative fences. Usually these are small fences installed for the purpose of zoning, decorating the territory. Working with metal will require certain skills and tools. The most commonly used is electric welding. First, the individual structural elements are prepared, then they are welded together. Such fences are strong and can be installed by driving support elements into the ground. The remains of metal profiles are convenient to use in the zoning of flower beds.

Many gardeners who grow raspberries, blackberries use them as a restraint of the spread of plant roots. A trench is dug around the perimeter of the berry to a depth of 20-30 cm, a metal profile is installed. Then they cover it with earth, tamp it. In the future, the roots of raspberries and other vegetation will not be able to spread throughout the garden.

Concrete

Artificial concrete fences are easy to make with your own hands. First of all, it will be necessary to master the technique of preparing a solution, the proportions of its constituent substances. For massive outdoor fences, first equip the foundation. A trench is dug, a wooden formwork is installed around the perimeter. The created box is poured with the prepared solution. Small concrete fences for flower beds do not require a foundation.

The prepared forms are filled with a solution, kept until the required strength is achieved. After that, the formwork is disassembled. The resulting volume is filled with earth, plants and flowers are planted. Small flower beds are made of concrete, which are installed at the front entrances to the house, cottage. Common shapes: rhombuses, squares, circles, rectangles, ovals.

Hedge

Decorative fences made of living plants are very popular with many owners of houses and summer cottages. The main thing is to find the appropriate seedlings of the desired type, quantity. These can be trees with a falling crown, densely growing shrubs. Villagers often set up live blackberry fences. The plant is unpretentious, growing rapidly. It is spread by the root system, so you will have to equip an underground barrier.

Natural blackberry hedge is the cheapest option for arranging a natural hedge. The main thing is not to start uncontrolled growth. You can create a natural hedge from the following plants:

  • Maiden's grape;
  • Honeysuckle;
  • Climbing rose;
  • Schisandra;
  • Ivy.

When choosing a live fence, you need to pay attention to how the plants tolerate pruning. Some, like juniper, are intolerant of such procedures. Therefore, if these plants are planted, then it is necessary to give them the opportunity to grow freely.

Gabions

In the arrangement of the local area, gabions are also used. To create it yourself, you need a metal mesh with a certain mesh size. First, a rigid cage is assembled, which is covered with an available mesh. Gabions are made with an anti-corrosion coating. The cage in the net is made depending on the size of the filler.

The system is created by welding individual wires together. Small cylindrical gabions are used as a separate decor on the site. You can plant plants or assemble a composition from individual elements. The main thing is to have the skills of welding metals. Filler for gabions: quarry, gravel, pebbles, granite. The flower beds arranged in them look good. You can diversify the landscape of the site in small forms, by purchasing a ready-made mesh, independently giving the desired geometry, reinforcing it with rigid ribs.

DIY decorative fence made of branches

An interesting fence, as a decoration, protection of the backyard is a tyn or wicker fence. This type of arrangement has ancient roots. Was a common type of fence of the past centuries. It is made from improvised branches, sticks, vines. Today's landscape design has made twig decor quite popular. The building is environmentally friendly and natural. Such an element of Slavic culture has become fashionable today. It can be installed in the garden or protected from the access of animals, children, other areas of the courtyard. The technology is simple: the branches cut from the bushes are woven into the installed supports, stakes.

Preparatory work

Two groups of elements of a wicker fence are procured as raw materials: supports, rods. For the former, thick branches with a diameter of 6-8 centimeters are suitable. You can use metal pipes, wooden poles. The basic principle is that the higher the supports, the thicker the rods can be used in the weave. The material is harvested from fruit trees, willow, birch. Maple and poplar twigs are also suitable. Harvesting is carried out in the spring, before the appearance of sap flow in the trees. In dry, hot weather, cutting twigs in summer is allowed. Branching is done at angles in the range of 40-60º. Tyn is weaved from freshly cut blanks. Preparation for future use is allowed, but before use, the rods are soaked in hot water. Wooden poles are treated with impregnation, fired, washed out. The most optimal pillars are made of larch, which does not rot.

Main works

After the procurement of materials, they begin the main work. First of all, the pillars are buried. For a wattle fence with a height of one meter, the supports are driven into a depth of at least 0.3 meters. A one and a half meter fence will require deepening the supports by 0.5 m. When constructing a low tyna, the pillars are driven in at 0.2 m. The distance between the supports is 0.4-0.5 m. The greater thickness of the rods allows for a sparse installation of the posts.

On the edges of both sides of the fence, three pillars are driven in, the distance is 0.20-0.25 m from each other. This is done with the aim of rigidly fixing the vine in the initial, final areas. Then the rods are woven, placing the blanks in turn between the supports. The lower rows of the vine must be fixed with wire, buried in the ground by 10-15 cm. The subsequent layers of branches are attached with wire around the frame. Weaving is started from the thicker side of the twigs, overlapping the thin ends of the branches.

After passing three, four rows, it is necessary to compact the vines. This is done by tapping them with a hammer. The ends of the panicles on the vines are pre-cut. If reed mace is used, reed - laying between the posts is done with armfuls of material. After the completion of the work, the wattle fence is decorated with national ornaments and old utensils. To increase the service life, the structure is coated with varnish.

Conclusion

There are many options for creating elegant, practical barriers for various purposes. It is necessary to acquire a tool, start learning carpentry, construction and practice skills. The choice of improvised means for quickly decorating a flower garden will take a couple of minutes. Flower beds can be arranged in concrete containers filled with earth. Such flower beds decorate the front entrances, placing them along the perimeter of the porch. They look beautiful, and in the heat, weaving plant species create coolness. It is easy to create green walls from them, which, during the flowering period, smell and amaze with their beauty. On a private plot, you can always create exclusive decors, easily dismantled parts of fences. Fences protecting plants from the encroachments of poultry, animals, children's pranks.

Each owner of a land plot, even a very small one, strives to designate the boundaries of his ownership. In most cases, the owners erect fences that will hide the territory from prying eyes, intrusions from the street by strangers. And most often such a fence is a fence.




To build a high-quality and aesthetic fence, you do not need to immediately contact a specialist. With your own hands, you can create a unique design that will become your pride. To do this, you should find a good consultant, which is our site, and clearly follow his step-by-step instructions. According to our recommendations, you will independently build a wooden fence, from which you are now just a few steps away.

A serious step - the choice of material

A large selection of materials for building a fence sometimes puts the owners in a difficult position - which is better to choose? The choice depends on how you want to see the fence. Therefore, it is necessary to have at least a little information about each of the modern materials.

Brick fences are solid durable buildings. This traditional building material is used to build a solid capital structure that will stand for more than one decade.

Fences made of lightweight, durable and beautiful corrugated board, which is universal for the construction of this structure. The result is an easy-to-install, lightweight and aesthetic barrier.

The protective structures made of wood. Until recently, this is the most common type of building material, which is gradually, although undeservedly, replaced by modern ones.

Quite often in the construction of facade and internal fences they use netting... But this type of construction, unfortunately, will put your entire site on public street view.

Modern construction of fences involves the combined inclusion of different materials in the structure, using masonry and brickwork. Companies specializing in the construction of fence structures, in their price lists, offer a variety of options for combined fences.

How to start construction correctly

Whatever material you choose for your fence, the beginning of construction always requires adherence to a certain order. The first is laying the foundation for the future fencing - the foundation. This step is preceded by the determination of the corners and precise marking along the entire perimeter, taking into account the boundaries of the site.

If you decide to install a temporary fence, and in the future build a capital one, then it is not necessary to mount a strip foundation, which will then need to be destroyed. It will be enough to install and concrete free-standing pillars, which will become the base of the fence.

To determine the boundaries of the frame of your fence, you need to dig holes in the corners, into which the supporting pillars will be installed and concreted.

What you need to know about racks

When choosing or making your own racks, you should also take into account some points.

The strongest and most stable are metal racks. They are able to maintain the structure for a long time without repairs.

As practice has shown, wooden supports are less durable. Part of the pillar that is in the ground requires separate processing. Therefore, it is most practical to install wooden posts when building a temporary fence.

Bases made of pipes of various diameters or square metal profiles are extremely practical and durable.

For self-construction of a fence structure, you will need a welding machine with which you can assemble the supporting part of the structure and install fasteners for the spans. The video provides instructions for the correct installation and concreting of the support pillars.

And now - we will mount the frame on which the fence will be installed

When the first stage of work on installing the supporting part of the structure is completed, it is necessary to mount the fasteners to which the spans will be attached. Here, too, there are several options for welding fasteners.

When installing wooden beams as guides, they are fixed on the "ears" welded to the support.

When a metal corner is used, it is also welded to the post by attaching wooden blocks to it.

The profile tube guide ensures maximum strength and rigidity of the entire structure. The spans are easily mounted on the base using self-tapping screws.

Helpful information! When assembling a metal fence, you must first calculate its cost, since the structure can be more expensive than you would like.

The pinnacle of your creation

Once the framework of your structure is ready, the most important but enjoyable step remains - installing the spans. Our recommendations are focused on corrugated board, although solutions can be very different - slate, wood, mesh.

To make the fence even, you must first pull a strong thread along the upper edge, along which the sheet will be installed. You can use a laser level or level to set the horizontal direction.

With proper preparation and assembly, even a layman should not have difficulties with installation, connection and the appearance of the structure.

Be proud - you are a jack of all trades!

We very much hope that you consistently followed all our recommendations and with your own hands built a unique fence and rejoice at the fruits of your labor.